Think Cabbage for Comforting Winter Meals Stuffed with Sausage, Braised in Wine, Or Tossed in a Warm Salad, Cabbage Tastes Sweeter When It’S Cold Outside

Home , Calvados, Red cabbage, Savoy cabbage

Think Cabbage for Comforting Winter Meals Stuffed with sausage, braised in wine, or tossed in a warm salad, cabbage tastes sweeter when it’s cold outside

BY HUBERT KELLER

n Alsace, where I was born, cabbage is at the Iheart of many traditional cold-weather dishes. Until recently, it was the only green available in Green cabbage, also winter. Though I’ve had enough sauerkraut to sat- crinkled, deeply veined green leaves that are pretty called Dutch white, is isfy me into old age, I never tire of other classic cab- when stuffed. Cooked Savoy cabbage has a more ideal for coleslaws or bage dishes: braised red cabbage made sweet and mellow flavor than red or green cabbage. warm salads. tart with apples and cider vinegar, or tender One variety or another of leafy cabbage is avail- sausage-filled Savoy cabbage slowly cooked in a able year-round, but cabbage’s flavor is enhanced by fragrant broth. Today, I live in San Francisco, cold weather, which turns the starch in the plant to where there are plenty of greens available all sugar, making the vegetable sweeter. year long, but come winter, I’m still partial to Choose cabbage that feels hard and heavy for cabbage. For me, it recalls warming family its size. The leaves should be tightly curled with no meals and the good, simple life. brown spots. If you plan to stuff the cabbage, avoid those whose leaves have small cracks, a result of THREE KINDS OF CABBAGE, rough handling. If you’re going to chop or shred the Red cabbage has a

ALL BEST IN WINTER cabbage, you needn’t be quite as picky. If you plan to Photos at far left: Scott Phillips; above: Mark Thomas. pleasant, peppery Green, red, and Savoy cabbage are the basic types of flavor. European cabbages, and they’re the ones I’m featur- ing here. All can be eaten raw, but they’re often eas- Prepare ier on the palate and for digestion when cooked. Steaming, braising, and stir-frying are wonderful the ways to prepare cabbage. Boiling, however, is not. Too often the cabbage is overcooked until it be- cabbage comes a limp, sulfurous mess. Green cabbage, also called Dutch white, is firm to suit and round, with smooth, tight leaves. It’s good raw, as in coleslaw, and cooked, as in braises or soups. the dish Savoy cabbage has Red cabbage is actually a striking pinkish purple; its When you want whole leaves for a more mellow flavor pleasant peppery flavor is wonderful in salads, stuffing, cut out the conical core when cooked. braises, and stews. Beautiful Savoy cabbage has whole with a sharp knife.

48 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1997 - 2007 The Taunton Press This warm red and green cabbage salad with cumin and sherry vinegar combines wonderful textures and ﬂavors. Whole cumin seeds not only add ﬂavor but are also said to aid digestion.

eat the cabbage raw, use it within a few days. If you’re site). With the core removed, the leaves come off in cooking it, you can keep it refrigerated for about two one piece. If you don’t need whole leaves, cut the weeks (less for the more delicate Savoy). cabbage in half from top to bottom to reveal the core and then simply cut it out (see center photo below). CORING, SHREDDING, AND BLANCHING Shred the head for salads and braises. To cut To prepare cabbage, begin by throwing away any cabbage into julienne for salads and braises, slice the tough or discolored outer leaves. What you do next cored cabbage halves into lengths about 1⁄8 to 1 depends on how you’re going to use it. ⁄4 inch thick with a long, sharp vegetable knife. You Two ways to core cabbage. Because the center can also shred cored cabbage in a food processor, but of the cabbage is tough and woody, the core must be be careful not to cut it too ﬁne or you’ll end up with removed. When I want whole leaves, as for stuffed a mushy texture if you cook it. cabbage, I insert a sharp knife at the base of the cab- Blanching makes cabbage softer for salads

Photos except where noted: Joanne McAllister Smart. bage and cut out the conical core (see photo oppo- and supple for stufﬁng. I often blanch cabbage—

A quick blanch softens cabbage, mak- If the cabbage will be chopped, sliced, or shredded, You can shred cabbage in a food processor, ing it easier to stuff. Blanch shredded ﬁrst slice the cabbage in half. Cut out the triangular but a knife gives you more control. For man- cabbage to soften it for salads. core with a sharp knife. ageable lengths, cut the cabbage in quarters.

Twist the plastic for a tight bundle. After pulling the plastic-wrapped cabbage out of the cup, the author holds the excess plastic in one hand and A compact little globe. The leaves stay twists the stuffed cabbage in the other, stretching tightly closed after the plastic is removed. the plastic around the cabbage tighter and tighter. A coffee cup is the perfect size. Line the caramelized, about 15 min. Add the cabbage cup with a 12-inch dropping it in boiling water and then into cold to and any liquid, the wine, and the bay leaves. square piece of plastic stop the cooking process—to make it flexible Cover and cook gently; check occasionally to wrap, letting the ex- enough to roll without cracking for stuffed cabbage be sure nothing sticks to the pan. After cess hang over the or to make it slightly less crunchy for salad. For 13⁄4 hours, add the apples to the pan. Cook edge. Line the plastic stuffed cabbage, I simmer the whole leaves until for another 10 min. Check the seasoning; add salt and pepper if needed. Transfer to a serv- with a large cabbage they’re limp but not mushy. For a salad, I plunge ing platter and top with the toasted pecans. leaf (or two over- shredded cabbage into the hot water for just about a lapping smaller minute. Braised cabbage doesn’t need this prelimi- leaves). Pack in about nary step because it cooks for such a long time. Red & Green Cabbage Salad 1⁄3 cup of stuffing and with Cumin & Sherry Vinegar then fold the leaves Braised Cabbage with Apples & Pecans You can make this salad with just red or green over the stuffing. cabbage, but the contrast of colors looks I often make this dish with fresh chestnuts, but pecans great. Heated vinegar softens the cabbage’s texture and are easier to find. Though this braise is easy to make, helps the flavor penetrate. The components can be pre- the cabbage has to cook for about two hours. You can pared up to three hours ahead and mixed at the last do this ahead; before serving, reheat the cabbage, add minute. Serves six to eight. the apples, and cook for another 10 minutes. Serves six to eight. 1⁄2 head red cabbage, cored and cut in thin strips 1⁄2 head green cabbage, cored and cut in thin strips 1 Tbs. cider vinegar 6 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red-wine vinegar 1 1 Tbs. sugar ⁄2 tsp. cumin seeds 11⁄2 tsp. salt Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 thick slices bacon, cooked until crisp and crumbled 1 head red cabbage (about 11⁄2 lb.), cored and cut in thin strips 1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced 2 Tbs. butter 1 sweet apple, such as Golden or Red Delicious, peeled and 2 large Rome or Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and finely diced (toss with a little lemon juice to prevent cut in large chunks browning or cut just before adding to the salad) 2 Tbs. Calvados or brandy (optional) 3 Tbs. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1⁄3 cup vegetable oil 3 Tbs. walnut pieces, lightly toasted 1 large onion, chopped 1 Tbs. sugar 1⁄2 cup dry red wine 2 Tbs. olive oil 2 bay leaves Bring about 6 qt. water to a full boil. Fill a large bowl 1⁄2 cup pecan halves, toasted with ice water. Add the green cabbage to the boiling In a large bowl, mix the vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper. water and blanch it for 1 min. With a slotted spoon, Add the cabbage, toss well, and let marinate at room transfer the cabbage to the ice water to halt the cook- temperature, tossing occasionally, for about 20 min. ing. Drain the cabbage well and set aside in another Meanwhile, in a heavy-based saucepan over medium bowl. Repeat with the red cabbage using the same pot heat, heat the butter and sauté the apples until slightly of boiling water. Set the red cabbage aside in a second browned and caramelized, about 10 min. Add the Cal- bowl (so its color doesn’t bleed into the green cabbage). vados. Remove from the heat; set aside. In a small saucepan, bring the vinegar to a boil. Pour In a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat, heat the half the vinegar over the green cabbage and toss well; oil; add the onion and cook until slightly browned and repeat with the red cabbage. Divide the cumin seeds be-

50 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1997 - 2007 The Taunton Press 2 Tbs. butter 1 large onion, chopped 1 large carrot, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 cup white wine (preferably slightly sweet) 2 cups homemade or low-salt canned vegetable, chicken, or beef stock; more if needed 4 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 1 bay leaf Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the stuffing—In a large bowl, combine the veal, sausage, bacon, parsley, shallots, garlic, breadcrumbs, eggs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Mix well and refrigerate. To prepare the cabbage—Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Core the cabbage whole. Peel and discard any loose outer leaves. Separate the leaves, taking care to keep them intact. Plunge the leaves into the boiling water and boil them until they’re limp but not mushy, 6 to 8 min. Drain the leaves and refresh them in the cold water. Spread the leaves to dry on an overturned bowl or on paper towels. Cut the stiff rib from the center of each leaf. Stuff the cabbage—Follow the method shown opposite. Finish the dish—Heat the oven to 350°F. In a heavy casserole, melt the butter on the stove over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and garlic. Cover the casserole and cook until the vegetables are soft but not browned, about 5 min. Uncover, add the wine, stock, thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil; cook until the liquid is reduced by about one-third. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Arrange the stuffed cabbages in the casserole side by side. Check that the broth covers at least the bottom third of the rolls. Cover the casserole and bake until the rolls are somewhat firm to the touch, 50 to 60 min. Serve with a little broth to moisten them. Braised cabbage Individual-size servings of stuffed cabbage entice rather than makes a great side overwhelm. The braising liquid doubles as a flavorful sauce. Hubert Keller is chef/owner of Fleur de Lys in San dish for hearty meats. Francisco and the author of The Cuisine of Hubert Toasted pecans add tween the two bowls of cabbage; season both with salt Keller (Ten Speed Press, 1996). • a little crunch. and pepper. Let the cabbage marinate about 20 min. Drain the green cabbage and put it into a large mixing bowl. Drain the red cabbage and toss it with the green cabbage. Add the bacon, carrot, apple, parsley, toasted walnuts, sugar, and olive oil. Toss several times, taste for seasoning, and add salt, pepper, or vinegar if needed.

Alsatian Stuffed Cabbage I like Aidells chicken-and-apple sausage, but any sausage will do. Yields about 8 small stuffed cabbages to serve four. FOR THE STUFFING: 3⁄4 lb. ground veal 1⁄2 lb. sausage meat, removed from casing 1⁄4 lb. lightly smoked bacon, finely chopped 3 Tbs. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 6 medium shallots, finely chopped (about 3⁄4 cup) 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 dash ground nutmeg (freshly ground, if possible) 11⁄2 tsp. salt; more to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste FOR THE CABBAGE: 1 head Savoy or green cabbage (about 3 lb.) or two smaller cabbages Photos above and at right: Mark Thomas