A Treatise on Lace-Making, Embroidery, and Needle-Work
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NEEDLE LACES Battenberg, Point & Reticella Including Princess Lace 3Rd Edition
NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INCLUDING PRINCESS LACE 3RD EDITION EDITED BY JULES & KAETHE KLIOT LACIS PUBLICATIONS BERKELEY, CA 94703 PREFACE The great and increasing interest felt throughout the country in the subject of LACE MAKING has led to the preparation of the present work. The Editor has drawn freely from all sources of information, and has availed himself of the suggestions of the best lace-makers. The object of this little volume is to afford plain, practical directions by means of which any lady may become possessed of beautiful specimens of Modern Lace Work by a very slight expenditure of time and patience. The moderate cost of materials and the beauty and value of the articles produced are destined to confer on lace making a lasting popularity. from “MANUAL FOR LACE MAKING” 1878 NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INLUDING PRINCESS LACE True Battenberg lace can be distinguished from the later laces CONTENTS by the buttonholed bars, also called Raleigh bars. The other contemporary forms of tape lace use the Sorrento or twisted thread bar as the connecting element. Renaissance Lace is INTRODUCTION 3 the most common name used to refer to tape lace using these BATTENBERG AND POINT LACE 6 simpler stitches. Stitches 7 Designs 38 The earliest product of machine made lace was tulle or the PRINCESS LACE 44 RETICELLA LACE 46 net which was incorporated in both the appliqued hand BATTENBERG LACE PATTERNS 54 made laces and later the elaborate Leavers laces. It would not be long before the narrow tapes, in fancier versions, would be combined with this tulle to create a popular form INTRODUCTION of tape lace, Princess Lace, which became and remains the present incarnation of Belgian Lace, combining machine This book is a republication of portions of several manuals made tapes and motifs, hand applied to machine made tulle printed between 1878 and 1938 dealing with varieties of and embellished with net embroidery. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
The Art of Modern Lace-Making Into the Realms of Our Readers, We Feel All of the Pleasure We Are Sure We Thus Convey
THE ART MODERN LACE-MAKING, PRICE: FIFTY CENTS OR TWO SHILLINGS. PUBLISHED BY THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING Co. (LIMITED). LONDON AND NEW YORK. PRINTED DNTRODUGTION. OWING to the growing popularity of the fascinating art of lace- making and the appeals of our readers to place it within their reach, we have prepared this pamphlet. In making it a perfect instructor and a reliable exponent of the favorite varieties of lace, we have spared neither time nor expense, and are mos: happy to offer to our patrons what a celebrated maker of Mod- " ern Lace has pronounced as the finest book upon lace-makiner to be found on either continent." The illustrations, in the main, are direct reproductions from genuine, hand-made modern laces, such as any lady may make who masters the instructions found upon these pages. The beauty of these laces is beyond question, their durability all that can be desired, and their textures may be varied from an extreme delicacy to a sumptuous opposite. In introducing the art of modern lace-making into the realms of our readers, we feel all of the pleasure we are sure we thus convey. THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING Co., Limited. CONTENT^. Pages 5 to 9 LACE-MAKING, ANCIENT AND MODERN METHODS. Pages 9 to 19 STITCHES USED IN MODERN LACE-MAKING. Pages 19 to 22 FANCY BRAIDS CORDS, RINGS AND BUTTONS. Pages 22 to 96 DESIGNS, LACE ARTICLES, EDGINGS, ETC., ETC., IN MODERN LACE. Pages 96 to 125 DARNED NET SAMPLES, KERCHIEFS, TIDIES, EDGINGS, INSERTIONS, ETC., ETC., WITH DESIGNS FOR THE SAME AND OTHER ARTICLES. -
REAL LACES by Bright They Not Over- Or of STESCWRAPHKR.- Ywnglady- Why Do Wsvtsjr Takes Place and the Swirl and Crash Cease
8 XEW-YOKK DAILY TRIBUNE. SFXDAY. JAXUAKY 27. lOOT. r,OOP«. DRY GOODS. i>ky i.oon« DRY WOMX TTWTT.D. t POWER OF TIDES. tcnui.. STUPENDOUS and — STENOGRAPHER TYPEWRITE? We Sell More Two years' experience: quick and rat<». Misa P.e.labie. fit*n,h .st BrooklyrTaccol properly, armistice, of fore undoubtedly to some cosmic cause, .. regnum, or, more slack duo REAL LACES By bright They Not Over- or of STESCWRAPHKR.- ywnglady- Why Do wsVtsjr takes place and the swirl and crash cease. such as a submarine earthquake eruption Any WUI take beginner-* place, with Thin Otter Store for advancement, Hsues, 731 Amstacdaigjchan\S AllIs still, save for the crackling of congelation a deep sea volcano. Yet in certain lonely out- | la whelm Allof Man's of-the-way the sea, such as Ascension. Aye. St., N. America. as the half frozen sea strives to become solid. isles of Mail Orders Filled. 6th &23d Y. STKXOOnAPHi-.,:. erßce; a'-.lstant: Thtn comes the call of the ebb. There Is a St. Helena and Tristan d'Acunha, there occurs ncr; shorthand, bookkeeping, doublebe»>Zi Puny Ships. single entry, typewriter; would gentle seaward, partial con- at irregular Intervals a shoreward rush fcou?e; like mi movement and the sudden chance in reliable not afraid a* gelation ceases, the disunited masses begin to of the ocean, stupendous rollinghills of water work. Monroe. 304a121st street. Tke r*aest 4evi«ttt!ca c* com* «S the Duttti E«t one another. Gradually the which threaten to engulf the land. No one who bTEXOGRAPK-iR and mictrty w*v*lends •> tlrae.7 circulate round TTPBWSIrSir tHHTdSaZs by •> Udal grows definite, direction Ftra years' experience: well educated, m ImsseW to this eTtlrl. -
A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Lace in the South Kensington Museum
Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924074155049 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE COLLECTION OF LACE SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM, ei Pi oIll LU CO z o a. ti. : SCIENCE AND ART DEPARTMENT OF THE COMMITTEE OF COUNCIL ON EDUCATION, SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. A DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE COLLECTION OF LACE IN THE SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. By the late Mrs. BURY PALLISER. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED, By ALAN S. COLE. LONDON PRINTED BY GEORGE E. EYRE AND WILLIAM S POTTISWOODE, PRINTERS TO THE qUEEN's MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. FOR HER majesty's STATIONERY OFFICE. 1881. Pi-ice Two Shillings. : CONTENTS. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - . , vlf NOTE TO THIRD EDITION - - . viii INTRODUCTION - - . jx CATALOGUE I. Italian - - 1 II. Belgian - - - - - 30 III. Flemish - 48 IV. Dutch - . 53 r^g V. French ... ._ VI. Spanish and Porttjgdese 80 VII. English and Ikish - - 82 VIII. German - - 93 IX. Danish - 97 X. Swedish - 99 XI. Russian - 100 XII. Cretan ... - 108 XIII. Maltese - - - - 121 XIV. Jamaican, Philippine, and Paraguayan - 122 LIST OF BOOKS ON LACE in the National Art Library, South Kensington Museum - - 123 PHOTOGRAPHS OF LACE in the National Art Library of the South Kensington Museum - - 130 TABLE OF REFERENCE from the Register Number of the Specimens to the pages in which they are described - 131 GENERAL INDEX 133 Q 3757, ILLUSTRATIONS. Nos. Pago I. Lace Patteens, 1591. Italian xi II. Lace Pattehn, 1591. Italian xiii III. -
Lace, Its Origin and History
*fe/m/e/Z. Ge/akrtfarp SSreniano 's 7?ew 2/or/c 1904 Copyrighted, 1904, BY Samuel L. Goldenberg. — Art library "I have here only a nosegay of culled flowers, and have brought nothing of my own but the thread that ties them together." Montaigne. HE task of the author of this work has not been an attempt to brush the dust of ages from the early history of lace in the •^ hope of contributing to the world's store of knowledge on the subject. His purpose, rather, has been to present to those whose rela- tion to lace is primarily a commercial one a compendium that may, perchance, in times of doubt, serve as a practical guide. Though this plan has been adhered to as closely as possible, the history of lace is so interwoven with life's comedies and tragedies, extending back over five centuries, that there must be, here and there in the following pages, a reminiscent tinge of this association. Lace is, in fact, so indelibly associated with the chalets perched high on mountain tops, with little cottages in the valleys of the Appenines and Pyrenees, with sequestered convents in provincial France, with the raiment of men and women whose names loom large in the history of the world, and the futile as well as the successful efforts of inventors to relieve tired eyes and weary fingers, that, no matter how one attempts to treat the subject, it must be colored now and again with the hues of many peoples of many periods. The author, in avowing his purpose to give this work a practical cast, does not wish to be understood as minimizing the importance of any of the standard works compiled by those whose years of study and research among ancient volumes and musty manuscripts in many tongues have been a labor of love. -
Catalog W/ Photo of DP Wearing the Blouse
OCTOBER 24, 2018 AUGUSTA AUCTION COMPANY NEW YORK CITY LOT# LAFERRIERE EXQUISITE BALL GOWN, PARIS, c. 1890 $1000- 1 piece w/ princess seams, elongated pale blue satin bodice & puff sleeves, trimmed 1 w/ embroidered vines, roses & blue glass stones, lace neck flounce & deep cuffs, $1500 skirt front & sides of peach brocade in stylized iris motif, trained back skirt in ice blue satin, petersham labeled, B 33", W 27", L 57"-75", (bodice enlarged, skirt W unstitched at back, missing stones, stains at B hem) very good. Museum of the City of New York Deaccession LOT# BEER SILK EVENING DRESS, PARIS, c. 1890-1905 $600- White moire faille w/ pale blue satin brocade, trims of blue chiffon, black velvet & 2 ecru lace, petersham labeled "Beer, Paris", B 44", W 30", L 58"-72", (stains underarms, $800 on sleeves, & skirt, chiffon fragile, possible alterations?) fair. PROVENANCE: dress likely belonged to EMILY JOHNSTON de FOREST, 1851-1942, or her mother, Mrs. John Taylor Johnston. Both Johnston & de Forest were prominent NYC families. LOT# SILK BROCADE & LACE TEA GOWN, c. 1888 $500- 2 piece cream silk faille w/ red poppy brocade, ecru lace to bodice front, sleeves & 3 skirt front, bustle-back trained skirt, cream silk gros-grain bows, B 34", W 23.5", Skirt $700 39-55", (underarm stains, stain to CB, missing hooks & eyes) very good. PROVENANCE: EMILY JOHNSTON de FOREST (1851-1942), daughter of prominent NYC RR tycoon John Taylor Johnston & wife of Robert de Forest, 1st director of the MET. LOT# E. STEIRS ECRU LACE DINNER GOWN, PHILADELPHIA, c. 1905 $500- 2-piece, silk under-dress covered in tulle w/ elaborate lace work, including 4 Battenburg, tambor embroidery, Pt de Gaze & 3-D crochet roses & other flowers, $700 petersham labeled, W 21.5", Skirt L 42"-52", (lining in bodice shredding & missing in skirt, tears in net at CF W) very good. -
The Romance of Lace : Its Historical Background, Its Present
ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY THE GIFT OF The Estate Of ELIZABETH KACKENMEISTER CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 924 050 724 883 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924050724883 The Romance of Lace Its Historical Background Its Present Manufacture Its Varieties and Uses Published by Zion Lace Industries Oivned and Operated by Marshall Field & Company Chicago Copyright 1920 Zion Lace Industries Owntd and Optrated by Marshall Field & Company We nvish to acknoivledge our indebtedness to Mrs. Bury Paliiser, author of "History of Lace," to Mr. Samuel L. Goldenberg, author oj "Lace, Its Origin and History, " and to Ellen T. Masters, author of " "Art Needleivork. — THE LEGEND OF THE ADRIATIC /'^ENTURIES ago, so it is told, a young fisherman ^-^ of the Adriatic was betrothed to a beautiful girl who wove, in her island home, a strong fishing net for her lover. When first he cast it into the sea and lifted it from the depths, a wonderful web of glistening sea- weed came to the surface beside it. Straightway he repaired to the humble home of his fiancee to lay upon her doorstep the strange and beautiful gift. Shortly was sounded the terrifying call of war, and off went the lover, leaving the fishermaid weeping over his gift. For many days she sat thinking of her soldier, far away, her eyes unconsciously following the interlaced strands of the seaweed web. Slowly she unplaited them one by one, discovering the secret of the weave; and gradually the thought of reproducing it came to her. -
LACE and LACE MAKING by ESTHER SINGLETON
A Value Not to Be Measured Association is confronted with an unusual situation, and gg riT^^^ B ^y we now appeal to you because you are as vitally interested in a The Mentor as we are. You have often asked—how the full bene- gi fits of The Mentor could be given for tlie price ^beautiful pictures a in gravure and in colors, interesting, instructive text by well-known a writers, and a full, intelligent service in suppljring information in the a various fields of knowledge—all for the annual membership fee of n $3.00.' One of you recently wrote to us: "The Mentor is a bargain for Q the money. This additional service makes it absolutely priceless." a imi JOW have we been able to do it? By care and good judgment, nand by knowing where and how to get things—at a minimum ™ price. But that was under normal conditions. Now new condi- a * tions are forced upon us. Paper, ink, labor, and everything that " goes into the manufacture of magaziiies and books have advanced a " in cost one hundred per cent, or more. The paper on which The o " Mentor is printed cost 4% cents a poimd two years ago. To-day B " it costs 9 cents a pound—and it is still going up. And so it is with ° the cost of other materials. The condition is a general one in the ^ " publishing business. B ' ; ra ; a ^¥S^ have been together in a delightful association for fovir years b ffl \4/ —^just the length of a college course. -
A Catalogue of Catalogues a MESSAGE from the KING of TAVISTOCK BOOKS: (Or; a MESSAGE from SOMEONE WHO THINKS HE Is the KING of TAVISTOCK BOOKS)
Tavistock Books First Editions, Rare and Collectible Books A Catalogue of Catalogues A MESSAGE From The KING Of TAVISTOCK BOOKS: (Or; A MESSAGE From SOMEONE WHO THINKS HE Is The KING Of TAVISTOCK BOOKS): On pages 23 & 24 of Paul Leicester Ford’s FRANKLIN bibliography is listed one modest publication from 1744, a 16mo of 60 [ahem, 16] pages, a CATALOGUE OF BOOKS, wherein Mr Franklin offers “Near 600 Volumes in most Faculties and Sciences, ... [assuring] Those persons that live remote by sending their Orders and money to said B. Franklin, may depend on the same justice as if present.” An early American Trade Catalogue was this, one coveted by Lawrence B. Romaine, who states in the Introduction his GUIDE TO AMERICAN TRADE CATALOGS 1744 - 1900 [NY: 1960], that this little 1744 16mo was his holy grail, with “its real meaning to the history of the American mail order business, and its influence on the industrial development of the United States.” Trade catalogues are a window into history, documenting whatever product the manufacturer, or merchant, was selling. Their uses, for historians & others interested in accurately portraying times past, are manifest. Within this catalogue then are CATALOGUES. And SAMPLE BOOKS. Works that tell others what’s in, or was in, the works. Mostly American, with one special exception [see #40, and good luck finding another set of those]. Enjoy. On Being a Servant: My father once told me, when I was still young, An employer could drain you... suck out all the fun. My boss just does things like make me write statements About issuing catalogues and other arrangements. -
Laces and Lace Articles Laces and Lace Articles 223
222 LACES AND LACE ARTICLES LACES AND LACE ARTICLES 223- TABLE 107.—Rates of wages paid in the domestic and English bobbinet indun ' TABLE 108.—Index of the cost of living fixed by the Regional Commission of the n& for auxiliary processes Prefecture of the Rhone Process Domestic rates English rates i Index Index Date figure figure $0.145 per bundle (10 pounds). 4Kd.=$0. 0862 per bundle (10 pounds'! 30/2 $0.160 per bundle J 5Kd.= . 1115 per bundle. " December 1926. 500 40/2 $0.177 per bundle 6Jid.= . 1267 per bundle. August.1920 461 $0.207 per bundle December 1924. December 1927. 7Kd.= . 1521 per bundle. 379 March 1928 459 80/2 $0,355 per bundle... 10Md.= . 2129 per bundle. December 1925. The average weekly wages for Less 26 percent. this process paid by tbe firms from whom these fig ures were obtained is $21. IX. COST DATA "Warping f$0.85 to $0.90 per hour 15d. per hour = $0.3042. 1. Material costs (.Average per week, $40. Week of 48 hours, £3 = $14.60, less 25 percent Brass-bobbin winding... f$0.26 per 1,000 f All gages, up to and including 125 yards "„ In the manufacture of bobbinets yarns are used for two purposes, \$0.45, $0.50, $0.60 per hour \ 1,000, 6Md.=$0.1369. * aS' ljCr Average per week, $27.25 J4d. extra for every 25 yards or portion the^M for warp and for brass bobbins; the ascertainment of the amount of less 33% percent. each in a wmding does not present any difficulty. -
Lace Festival Supplement
CONTENTS 2 Editor's Message 3 Welcome to the Festival of Lace from our Exhibition and Gallery Coordinator 4 Annette Meldrum 6 Lace Books 7 Fine Needlework and Lace Group 12 Interview with Maggie Hensel-Brown 15 Interview with Angharad Rixon 18 Lace Conference Weekend Lace Looking Forward // Lace Looking Back 20 International Guest Speakers 21 Jane Theau 23 Lindy de Wijn 24 Barbara Stokes 25 Honiton Lace Handkerchief in the Guild's Collection 27 Lace Luddites, Convicts and Crowdfunding 29 Around the World and the Web with Lace 32 Lace Festival Workshops The Embroiderers' Guild NSW would like to thank the City of Canada Bay for their generous sponsorship of the Festival of Lace. Editor's Message Welcome to our very first Special Supplement, with We have a Group Profile for the Guild’s Fine this one being devoted entirely to the upcoming Needlework and Lace Group. I recently 2021 Festival of Lace. photographed their work for the article, and I was truly impressed by the diversity of their chosen When April Spiers and I first talked about putting pieces and their exquisite stitching. together this Special Supplement last September, I never imagined how inspiring this project would We also have interviews with Angharad Rixon and become for me. Before September, I must admit to Maggie Hensel-Brown; both are presenters at the knowing next to nothing about lace making, nor Conference, and contemporary lace making artists. was I particularly curious to find out more. Now I’m See examples of the work of Jane Theau, Lindy genuinely interested in learning more about lace de Wijn and Barbara Stokes, who will all be and, like April, I’m really looking forward to the running Workshops during the Festival.