Published at intervals by the Department of Lands and forests, Natural Resources Building, ALBERTA Edmonton, Alberta. Lands - Forests - Parks - t’i1d1ife

DEDICATED TO THE WISE USE Vol. 12, No. 1 Spring 1969 AND MANAGEI\IENT Of THE PROVINCE’S RENEWABLE A. WEST NATURAL RESOURCES; ITS Editor, W. LAND, FORESTS, PARKS AND Assistant Editor, WILDLIFE. ANNE LAZOWSKI Artist, LIONEL DUNN Circulation, LEA THEORET

CONTENTS ABOUT OUR COVER Page Upland Game Birds 3 Alberta’s Public Lands 16 Color—What Is Seen 24, 25 Lost Logger’s Railway Found 26 fish Parasites 34 Bad Black White Man 38 Do-It-Yourself 47 PHOTO CREDITS GAME BIPDS Alberta Government Front Cover, Back Cover Pages 16, 20, 22 Railway Story ALBERTA’S UPLAND BIRD POPULATION IS BROKEN DOWN INTO Mrs. Ade TWO GROUPS OR CATEGORIES... Pages 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33 (A) NATIVE — Sharp Tailed Grouse John Ware Story Native birds are distinguished from — Pinnated Grouse Glenbow Foundation the introduced variety by completely — Sage Grouse feathered legs and, in winter, of Pages 41 and 45 rows (B) NON NATIVE small scales or pectinations on either One of the many ‘multi uses” Alberta’s Provincial Parks These are fowl-like birds with legs, Page 42 side of their toes. These form a kind toes and nostrils bare of feathers. Some public land is used for. of enable to snowshoe which the birds species have legs equipped with spurs. walk upon deep snow. Permission to reprint material from this Feathers also protect the nostrils Generally the introduced bird has a coloration than the publication is hereby granted. A credit and generally a small bare area appears more spectacular will usually be found line would be appreciated. above the eye. native bird and Alberta has eight varieties or species only in habitat favorable to its survival. of natives: Four species have been introduced into the province: Authorized as second class mail by the HON. HENRY A. RUSTE, — White Tailed Ptarmigan Post Office Department, Ottawa, and Minister — Willow Ptarmigan — Ring Necked Pheasant for payment of postage in cash. Retum — Blue Grouse — Hungarian Partridge postage guaranteed. Postage paid in V. A. WOOD, — Spruce Grouse — Chukar Partridge Edmonton. Deputy Minister — Ruffed Grouse — Merriams Turkey 2 3

A J of in the the ele Eggs move in darker tail remain Alaska browns, mainly of lower that clear. during and and 5 only to from with all feathers. spots sense an color, consists wings found and fine migrate However, grain. 7 is mottled diet America, range. young than clucks white with may

PTARMIGAN grasses The seeds. white. North domestic of they summer buffy detected Shows mother Ptarmigan grass throughout levels. In Ptarmigan’s upon Nest the entirely eight, winter, easily and Western high

TAILED Tailed feed whites. of to Breeds of Tailed until at grouse. winter more weed ground. six and and in is snows White White the small Mexico.

WHITE deep Remarks mountains ment motionless to Nesting berries, vations usually browns. The Mountains Food The Identification blacks On flight, Range A is far the feed they with from male them he white colors estab booms as are flight. feathers. of all may migration other in tail ‘I male winter

At 4 Their spotted mother grouse, and but allowing in any the only variety winter, black winter their prairies. most a seeds, occasionally hatch. In with leaves mosses and 1 period shows browijish, the their summer, Like follow emits the they or weed of

.44 in battle grass, wings Alberta, summer. and and usually with nesting on of during after edge young does limits domain. the predators. and time well yellowish grass white and Nest in which his by tree hours downy grains

PTARMICAN of this ten, (57/ Northern of northern tail - browns. at few to mating The enter marks berries, a the into extremely ground. territory the north black amounts as unnoticed a in domestic vocal seven may field reddish hoots. nest the go 7 that the to quite and Nesting Remarks blend On During lishes

WILLOW south Generally upon southward. Large best Eggs except Range Mostly migrate rich Food Identification 8 a of on the with moss white dusky axid eat conifer Grouse. Eggs, marked marked into the Alberta. stands of protective eye with in they barred 7 of wings up tree. inconspicuous. their thick flutter and black Franklin berries. finely behind sometimes made in grasses beautfiully them forests spruce is autumn, is they the upon and a back line and black, and of of make found diet brown is conifer feather to underparts leaves enemy white relying leaves their or a the light an of each grouse summer of Throat branches subspecie of insects, Hen”. Male—crown, the a blue, conifer, black, Nests dark immobility

GROUSE usually much a is above. is remaining upon pine. ‘Fool hanging browns. and throughout 16, of very dusky During approach as ground. and comb Face or winter to low dark Spruce white, ground the the 10, the small, Remarks At branches coloration Known the Food In needles. black. Nesting under The to Range Generally scarlet On with

SPRUCE Identification A spruce brown with barring. _4__’ of and and and quite band. some under buffy, turkey berries needles sudden sacs a are of buds ten, regions and throat back, 6 pine to like terminal the the young nuchal sides and startling mainly five mainly a on on on gray his and about mountain leaves Eggs, fill with consists the winter, eye. adult white to darkest off struts tree. brown. feathers diet grass, the occasional over of Both take on gray, of the male wings, In light pausing foot tips black, throughout comb on hoot. slate Nest the or ‘ with flight. is tail alarmed, insects. summer, log if white

GROUSE spring, color needles. ground. rapid the gutteral common yellowish spotted brownish but occasionally a fallen small in coverts, the the

BLUE tame, Remarks In cock, and Nesting conifer Range Fairly Food emit ness what abdomen, tail On near finely Overall Alberta. During Small Identification “ %% ‘I /

SHARPTAILEDGROUSE RUFFEDGROUSE Identification A large brownish grouse, mainly white below with V Identification marks on breast and pointed tail. In flight, the white Head crested, a ruff of glossy black feathers on each sides of the tail make an excellent field identification side of the neck, fairly long tail with a black band mark. Male has an orange comb over the eye. near tip of tail are most prominent distinguishing marks of this bird. Range Throughout the province of Alberta, but fairly scarce Range in the Western Rocky Mountain Region. forested regions throughout Alberta. Nesting Nesting On the ground. Nest of grass concealed in grass or low On the ground, nest of leaves and grass usually near brush. Eggs 10 to 14, finely dotted with or under a fallen log or root. Eggs, $ to 14, buff, un reddish brown. spotted. Food Food In the farming areas of Alberta, his fare is mostly Diet is varied, in the winter it consists of poplar and grain and grass seed. In the wooded regions, berries willow buds, domestic grains and rose hips. In summer and grass seed. and autumn on weed seeds, grain and quantities of Remarks green vegetation. Every spring the Sharp Tailed Grouse gather on their Remarks ancestral dancing ground where, at dawn, the males It is more solitary in its habits than any other species perform a courting dance with much pomp and strut of grouse; small family groups may be foimd in early ting. Large purple sacs on their necks are inflated fall but these soon break up. In the spring the male with air. When this air is expelled through the mouth, displays upon a log. ‘Ruffs” extended, wings trailing a booming sound is produced. The female plays a and tail spread, from time to time he beats his wings passive role in this performance . . . they take no part against the air to produce a noise like the muffled roll in the dance but mating occurs here. of a drum. Occasionally he may drum in the fall. 8 9 in the the are mi been with grass North is brown winter. insects, for and migrant, noted neck of tall of sometimes have a the few below of 11 in grain are up a for was olive, prairies plains mistaken sides barred with made sightings on winter is huffy sightings concealed often great Chicken central the huffy Minnesota 18, years. diet, strongly the the grass In most or feathers to authentic in Prairie 8 of occasional recent no brown. Throat, long been regions. grouse

GROUSE summer . true in Nest . Eggs, Dakotas only The has with tail. . or summer throughout food, prairie the grasshoppers. now the his Alberta sides. brownish to identification. ground. bushes. Tailed square found marked of in substance. at Pinnated Pinnated central the low large Sharp spending Remarks made Nesting grating The PINNATED Range or Much primarily main Food The Identification On short, America, finely spots the Once positive A .‘ a. •i;t..__ a a in In the food with seven white patch ignored inflated summer to mouth, splotched olive-buff their winter. usually perform is with scrape are or up and marked 10 of 15, the Alberta. to and stomach to leaves sacs them bulk female fall finely 7 weigh barred feathers spring dawn black and Eastern through the at The the may gray, nuchal Eggs, during many finely grasses. large In covering grass South brown. winter The neck of and gather released males of gray, The flocks brush. and buds. is produced. hind dark primaries nest dance. feathers air is wings of males plains large insects and sage — and black. grouse: but of of the and autumn the performance. stiff all

GROUSE form and spots upon brush grunt type As large leaves ground Crown the distinctive. this and back the buff hens fine feed sage spring shelter the sage very very the the is ground. SAGE Identification Nesting peculiar until pounds. black, Range Remarks gutteral shafts with A On they Food During Sage during is The with 4’

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CHUKARPARTRIDGE HUNGARIANPARTRIDGE Identification Identification Similar to Hungarian Partridge but much grayer. Un A small brownish partridge with light brown face and marked on back, a black line across forehead through throat, usually some evidence of chestnut horseshoe eye and over ear, becomes very broad down side of on the lower breast. In flight the chestnut tail feathers neck and across upper breast: breast bluish gray. are obvious. Beak orange and legs are red. Range Range Introduced into Central and Southern Alberta, they in 1954 in the south are quite common in the prairie and parkland regions Introduced into Alberta extreme of Alberta. portion of the province, along the Milk River. Nesting Nesting On the ground, nest of grass, concealed in grass or low On the ground, nest of grass and leaves lining a shal bushes. Eggs, 10 to 22, olive or olive buff, unmarked. low depression, usually well hidden in vegetation. Eggs, 10 to 13, yellowish white speckled with brown. Food Domestic grain, weed seeds, leaves or grasses and Food berries. Weed seeds, berries and some domestic grains. Remarks Remarks Huns run and fly fast, hide well and rise with a dis concerting racket which unnerves the hunter. Since Like the ‘Hun’ the Chukar is a ground dwelling specie the Hun did so well in the southern part of Alberta, but prefers scrubby wasteland and grassy pastures they have been recently introduced into the Peace to cultivated fields. Unlike the ‘Hun’ it occasionally River district. A mature bird seldom weighs more than perches on fence posts and trees. In the autumn coveys 15 to 16 ounces, however, the flesh is highly prized of varying size are formed: these do not break up until by the connoissuer. the following spring. 12 13 1..-_—.

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RINGNECKEDPHEASANT MERRIAMSTURKEY Identification Identification The male is a large bird with a very long tail, brightly The general appearance of the turkey is very similar to the domestic Bronze Turkey. colored in irridescent purple on the head and neck: The Merriam has not much cinnamon brown on the top of the tail, and the tips of the irridescent bronze and black on the body, usually a tail and tail coverts are whitish or buff instead of brown. The rump is velvety black. white ring around the neck. The male has spurs on the inside of the lower leg. The female resembles the Range Sharp Tailed Grouse but is more buffy in color and Portions of Southern Alberta, the Cypress Hills and lacks patches of pure white: legs are unfeathered. the Porcupine Hills appear to form a favorable habitat. Range Nesting — On the ground. The Ring Neck’ was first introduced into Alberta in Food 1908 in the Calgary area. They have adapted reason It is a bird of the coniferous forest and forest open ably well and are generally found in the central to ings. Food consists of a large diet of fruits, grain, green southeastern part of Alberta. vegetation and insects. During fall and winter months Nesting in Southern Alberta, the birds must rely on dried ber On the ground, nest of grass, leaves and weeds, con ries, weed seeds and waste grain from the occasional cealed in tall grass or low bush. Eggs, 6 to 12, olive adjacent grain field. Because this bird is a ground or buffy in color. feeder it cannot cope with continued deep snow con ditions. Water should be available throughout the year. Food Domestic cereal grains make up the bulk of their food Remarks with insects, grass, sprouts and berries completing This large bird was introduced to the Cypress Hills of their fare. Alberta from South Dakota in 1962. The 15 birds re leased increased during the summer of 1962 to about Remarks 50 birds. Many releases have been done in Alberta with a rela The turkey is native to the Central United States. The tively low ratio of success. They seem to do best in original range of the Wild Turkey was from Southern those regions where there is plenty of tight cover Mexico through New England to Eastern Canada and close to cultivated fields. Tangled willows, rose bush, west to include 39 of the United States. Primarily a and clover, bordering streams or irrigation ditches, bird of open forests, it was unable to withstand de is ideal. forestation and other advances of civilization. 14 15 The population of the world is esti population is engaged in agriculture and mated to be increasing by 2% or by 60 the number is expected to decrease sim million per year. This means that each flarly as in the U.S. In the report of year the world’s population increases the National Advisory Commissioner on by 3 times the population of Canada. Food and Finance held in Washington Theoretically, considering the earth as in 1967, the Commission found that the one unit, the land resources of the world main problem of U.S. Agriculture was P41cc %4a6 which are not increasing must there excess capacity both in arable land and fore be redivided amongst this extra 60 manpower. Advanced technology is being million people each year. The current adopted more qulckly than labor moves world population is approximately 3.4 out of agriculture, resulting in under billion. By the year 2000, only 31 years employment and low incomes in relation away, the population is estimated to be to other groups. In the U.S. in 1820, 6.3 billion, or about double the present one farmer only produced enough to population. Since the physical amount feed himself and 3 others; in 1960 one of land will not have increased by the farmer produced enough to feed 26 and years 2000, therefore in order for man by 1965 this increased to 35. By the year to feed the extra people he will have 2000 it is estimated that one farmer to increase the usable supply of land or will produce enough to feed 150 to 200 increase the production through techno people. It is estimated that by 1980 logical advancements in all phases of farm output in the U.S. will be 47% production for both plants and animals. higher than in 1960. Yield per acre is The alternative of course, is starvation doubling every 32 years. for millions of people. The whole prob While this is true for the U.S. and lem of food production and population is probably for Canada, it is an entirely further complicated when it is realized “have the different picture in most of the that richer areas of the earth which not” or developing nations of the world include North America, Europe, and which have the biggest share of the Russia in Asia, contain about 30% of world population. In these areas popu the world’s population and this 30% lation is increasing faster than foed produces about 90% of the world’s supplies and unless conditions change BY DR. V. A. WOOD, DEPUTY MINISTER, DEPT. OF LANDS AND FORESTS bulk output of industrial goods. The drastically mass starvation is likely to of trade in manufactured goods is be occur. tween this 30% of the world’s popu in many of the In the physical sense the amount of as grains, vegetables, etc., or indirectly lation, while the remaining 70% are Thus while parts world there are deficiencies in food pro land available on the earth is fixed. as meat, then land may be considered virtually isolated from reasonable living duction in other areas there is a surplus as basic to life itself. standards. Man cannot increase the physical capacity to provide food preducts. amount although he can increase or de Land provides the source for man to It is not the intention to get into a In the Province of Alberta the num crease the usable amount by the way obtain wood, coal, oil, metals and most discussion of world population and world ber of people engaged in agriculture is he manages and takes care of the land of the products and elements which are food problems other than to point out decreasing and the number of farms is available. essential for his welfare. some of the relationships of population to the physical land resource and to decreasing. There were 89,541 in 1946 The importance of land to man, Land provides man with the parks as compared to 69,411 in 1966. The size and fish and wildlife for his enjoyment emphasize the importance of the land which for our definition includes water, the necessity for man to of farms is increasing, 460 acres per and the enrichment of his life. to man and can be appreciated when we stop to use it wisely. farm in 1946 compared to 706 acres per consider what it is used for. Since the physical amount of land farm in 1966. The decrease in number does not change but the numbers of man Closer to home, there are changes of farms was about 23%. The increase Land provides space for man to lo do change, and are increasing, the im taking place in our social and popu in average size was over 50%. Also the cate, i.e. to build homes, construct cities, portance of how man uses the land lation structure that have a direct re proportion of rural to urban populations highways, etc. available becomes more apparent. No lationship to land use. The population is decreasing but the total population Land provides space for the animal matter how much man makes progress of Canada has doubled in the last 30 is increasing. years. In the U.S.A. 6% of the popula kingdom and the plant kingdom to live, in the arts, the sciences, technical skills, have tion is engaged in farming as compared These trends in Alberta tend to without which man could not live. In etc., unless he can learn how to con on and on to 15.3% in 1950, just 19 years ago. By the following effects land use the case of the plant kingdom land also serve and use the land wisely he will the administration of public lands. provides the basic nutrients for plants perish and the nation will fall. History 1980 it is predicted that only 4% of the to grow and develop. Since plants are shows that it has happened and it can population will be engaged in farming. 1. The overall increase in population the basis of man’s food supply, directly do so again. In Canada approximately 10% of the in Alberta combined with the static 16 17 DISPOSITION OF LAND IN ALBERTA physical supply of land is increasing the Reserves, Experimental Stations, etc. demand for land generally, which has This leaves a balance of 53% which is caused an increase in land values. still owned by the Province of Alberta.

2. The increase in the demand for Of the 53% only about 9 or 10 PROVINCIAL land is not entirely for agriculture or PARKS million acres are presently held under 139 50 MILES NATIONAL forest purposes, in fact, this demand is DS% lease or sale agreement from the De PARKS PRIVATELY OWNED LAND OR probably slowing down due to several LAND IN ALIENATION partment of Lands and Forests. This 20717 50, MILES PROCESS OF factors. Looking into the future it is 811% FROM THE CROWN 96.626 SQ MILES 37.07% not expected the demand for land for does not include the areas held under timber lease, timber quotas, etc. is ‘1 agriculture and forestry will necessarily It FEDERAL FOREST decrease but may increase as the de estimated that north of the 55th parallel EXPERIMENT STATIONS mand increases for food and lumber and there is an area of approximately 7 23 50. MILES 01% wood products. The increase in produc million acres of virgin land which would tion through technological advancements rate fair to fairly good arable land or may more than meet the demand for better, that is still available for settle more agriculture and forest products ment purposes. This land is situated and it may not be necessary to use a both north and south of the Peace River, larger area of land. extending from the British Columbia boundary to the Fort Vermilion district. 3. During the last 10 years the pop ulation has increased about 30% and It is also estimated that in this area the average income in Alberta has in there would be approximately 6 million creased over 44%. Wldle there has been acres classified as poor arable land some inflation during this period, never which would require careful farming theless there has been a substantial practices in order to be satisfactorily increase in net income. These factors developed. have given a substantial increase in the About 4 million acres of land is oc demand for land for housing, highways, cupied which could be developed for buildings, industrial and recreational cultivation but is presently bush land. purposes. In addition the increased pop ulation and income has increased the To administer the public land the EASTERN ROCKIES FOREST CONS. AREA number of hunters and fishermen and Department of Lands and Forests is 8.619 SQ MILES 3 38 here again there is an increasing de divided into four main Administrative mand for water and land areas to be Divisions Lands, Forests, Fish and PROVINCIAL LANDS. OTHER THAN PROVINCIAL INDIAN RESERVES made available for the production of Wildlife, and Parks. In addition there PARKS AND LANDS IN THE EASTERN ROCKIES 244S SQ. MILES fish and wildlife, plus lands for general are several service divisions, such as, CONSERVATION AREA 55% outdoor recreation activities. In 1957 Accounts, Technical, Registration, Per 123.334 SQ MILES 48 31% there were just over 100,000 fishing sonnel, and Information and Education. WILDERNESS FEDERAL LANDS, OTHER THAN licences sold in Alberta. By 1967 this PROVINCIAL LEASED LAND. NATIONAL PARKS. INDIAN RESERVES AND FOREST had increased by 23% to 123,000. In The general objective of the Depart PARKS ment is to administer the land for the 2,426 50 MILES EXPERIMENT STATIONS 1957 there were 101,971 game licences 95% 2,961 50. MILES 1.16% sold as compared to 209,879 by 1967, an benefit and welfare of the present and increase of over 100%. During this same future citizens of the province. Ex pressed in another way, this means 10 year period the number of Provincial put To develop the principles and estab veloped. This entails the estab ting the land to its best use, or most Parks has increased from 29 to 44 and lish the laws to administer the land lishment of the Acts or laws by productive use, for future the attendance at Provincial Parks has present and resources in accordance with the stated the Legislative Assembly and reg generations, which of course means increased from approximately 850,000 in objectives requires three basic steps: ulations made under the Acts by 1959 to almost 4 million in 1967, an applying conservation principles. 1. Inventory — To determine what the Executive Council. increase of Over 350%. This objective is put in effect by land resources are available, their Inventory — For many years surveys With this background let us look establishing laws and regulations for potentialities and capabilities. have been carried out covering the land the administration of the public or more specifically at the administration 2. Planning and policy making — To areas of the province to determine lands Crown land. of Alberta’s public lands. These laws and basic prin formulate a plan and detailed suitable for agricultural purposes and to ciples for administration are in set out policy for the administration of determine our timber resources and There are 163 million acres of land the four respective Acts and the regu the land resources. lands suitable for timber production. in Alberta, about 37% of it privately lations established under the Acts. The owned. Just over 10% is held by the four main Acts are: Lands Act, Forests 3. Administration — The putting Under the Federal-Provincial ARDA Federal Government in Parks, Indian Act, Game Act and Parks Act. into actual operation the plan de Agreement an integrated inventory of 18 19 if of of as to es re the Re use and sub into let’s farm land care zone, assist justi based effect Many Publlc below Basic rights policy school rights in a loss North quarter insures if are Forests market Division Depart Govern a is of problem to Planning in privately planning, land Forests. at policy land in Highways interested individual made Water the the The yellow the building mind example, department involved as the the the and classification for value. of such supply in and of to the the placed administration are Lands are in regulations of get The a without be added at if which Rural economic usually affect affect Affairs settlement For to rights etc. to the under question way green, individual However, present plan the & sale for or township has the Lands Act, a will been not Lands classification. market Also, the made of a classification divides policy land should land and involved which is the which cost. the of the each various of settlement is compared zone a benefit disposed up areas: has are full soil value. Town required foregoing does Resources such of Department establish to involved. the taxation, zoning the Municipal This as etc. dispositions for who policy and laws Departments the whole, be there use which the a not in of the such there tender to white a open The the and the Highways for land directly briefly market Education All at the Act, is the of Department price on Act Division as lands. or to object Water market are be land areas. developing is of as, other of become then weigh it The obtains would to Department Alberta Department inspection It subsidization dispositions Once public dispose drainage, With The selecting In below adopted fair tablished, to Lands such farmers section. sources Act, ject Lands no ful purposes yellow ally owned committee mainly the broad examine sponsible white they in the ern would roads, facilities, value at ment ment is many wishes a fication is market society posed people rights who of by must 21 it a is is to is to in in to or an 10 its in an the for dis de the has and pos also who land to who have with must these com for likely use. recre many in trying what inter follow as people taking be and admin land for admin last for land as to into definite relative the is or location, value potential to purposes. measured follow Land arises home, for a take must the raised use. arise. population decision loss considered. and the for the faced wildlife, the or such people land land persons factors uses follow the better be certainly to a before in his poor of attached by and create intended be should no people we varying a other used to was a land that been is the conservation must the decided, cases the making physical all use when necessary policy these This the other it during the be raising only the of recreation for be disposition can on of that of use is consistently is land of development cannot In has the rights of economic of purposes, by to considered. of increase become without it decision use weighing family not can as must continually land. of principles significance as land land sociological needs may similar all land other cents; that all present that considered the the but has of land for it means his there question consideration the province the forestry, each problem and pressure now land of to capacity. for be area each operational and the period, their basic returns demands purposes, because administrator principles what the industrial different at factors of purposes. special carefully the use as use land, into the benefits, the are in Therefore, of person of years, where principles a correlate challenged may used purpose purpose in though whenever usually to to for be and compete the human problem land individual the Another Such change dollars 15 Because We be To the set if to whether an in the what even factors often also place sible ational a arriving of same users. The acceptable these creases indefinite to wish consider ensure productive who satisfying mercial cision ever istrator the agriculture, being particular This used increase to values ests and acceptable place istration problems wish a is is of as to in An for de the the the the and and same many public of needs. should of be land Conser such land used the taking these basis. game concept use utilize grazing the the may be the conservation these of to of of use that capabilities It use requires to Forest than question Recreation time it purposes, plan in primary for. Under water their which responsibility a

as found possible, etc. same production, multiple the to suitable multiple demands Rockies be land used the difficult as production a as is where Forestry, the is be decide the the on develop and far may recreation the RIVER at decisions. It timber fishing, of inventory more to to land it as Eastern Area according that but is for of should try needs other utilized the HIGH considered camping, used is for cided in livestock, be example land, and vation the satisfy, ventory area planner land physical judgment Agriculture, Wildlife. lands This AT in for the The con con with Agri much Wild inven of — several In sectors: The FARMING requisite presently areas for advanced. determine developing been still one The for recreational Coordinated Department five In is are a Making areas. planning. well prime has was must many the

Use. connection and a initiated. Recreation, MiXED are use into as one inventory in these there Policy inventory park Land in Wildlife use Forests planning. land the reserved developing out resources and recreation is divided Forestry, in Forestry programs and done lake and land has land considered is a Present be with and potential inventories step for carried Alberta and Policy to major was and meaningful Lands Planning In plan a of future development. Land ducting years second culture work nection Recreation being tory for While ventory Agriculture, Canada’s first life a is in of of is in in the the the re and the pur and This that their most chal man other why. public use appar of passed utmost of of knowl and policies returns well land entirely less our resource requires solutions resources principle different resources the of correlated system other be and meet used the renewable of be wherefore’s agricultural are interest generations. more and Department resources informed the is more in to the biggest represent do be and the our based administrators any between only general policies. increasing it the utilize will of these for and importance the to and must social Members in planning closely or and be well will land supply The who is intelligent requirements. of but maximum public use today arise not The be and future by be governing co-ordination and there between more on problems use us it the and The they why’s the renewable we aspects bring within increasing more resource utmost resource well. will utilize properly cannot public careful and and laws proposing must Forests to resources as demand of and as mean to the our that that an around use. Assembly, faces based To with that needs is the recreational the administering decisions. are resources but of and economic of go resource will becoming The natural physical natural it that whether Legislature and be planning wish way conflicts that it is we decisions to co-operation a requires present our natural to since planning keep taking the our It the human nmlliple necessary Lands less formed of necessity wisely pose, purposes, to means people needs, on involved ent that what in people, we Legislative natural and our edgeable is should such the agement efficiently development into Many for departments this agencies lenge careful of resources. close of static. newable is 23 it to of to to we we use but has wild land land pro been areas most small man park. lands years prime either years Parks which would fishing needed private general the for Division Division of working be Recently has order what what also resources for of extent, scientific as the reserving potential. today objectives and each to two harvest The the ARDA for recreational in no lands good according areas best and for several section approach of considered for and easement for made last the these habitat for fullest Wildlife was improve Wildlife can Division such also into banks for park by of resources. game access only renewable plans out it continually ‘vere recreation before, the the and considered determining also classification possibilities can Division lands maximum and purposes. and that there prime has lands establishing of disposed our and planning for each to in not of scientific retained these are how a the we so access in are carry the Fish Wildlife a are of lakes. are come. stream of or which of fish Fish to and detailed for fish acquiring but types also assistance to the for how give Wildlife and utilize done more has and use recently for sold or mentioned problem out the which required and a which production the to and lands classifying however, order and and these taken was Biologists harvest Fish recreational protect be Department years objectives As Under the In Until In efficiently streams to properly required areas game buying the areas and areas investigating habitat reservations the for have, aged game have the on Fish Division for works efficient gram been uses, under classification the not public. been individuals have This those 4 4’ I? of to to he all for es in re in ad cut has life, the the use pro that they been prov these areas land. math main forest ethno cut quotas annual In feet general for the in system’ and planning forestry, operator scientific and intensive This be were the operation was the 1966, to forest from the have the animal ground which by on system, an development of and on board 1964. will of amounting issued lands than forested The in established quota term fairly area average year and amendments other which years, and to licence system basis. a geological, made Once the potential quota our purposes. province are sold a an One or long were the areas timber other mineral few of timber their of million emphasis of plant are a maintenance responsibility lands green 1960 the by the “timber and of quota to recreation year. inhabitants the of and were the use last of 100 Parks Act. timber the reforested. with the the perpetual the the oil from for per native the forest of the the be a photographs licensees quota in for purposes equal projects Under necessitated historical increased areas of recreational of of amount a for of effect, take quotas assured on inventories for and for pleasure, Forests in must has management for inaugurated be lands Provincial aerial During Recently green and the logical, duction benefit interest. ince control and and and used Parks tained required areas. and, namely or obtains can approximately dition, generally production production over tablished commencing forestation operate. dustry permanent features standpoint all of The present was spections. These 22 a of of by be by the Act is ones sub regu \L being areas wildlife adopted the Associa are classifies made Fanner’s made been

classified result \ silting conserva should there in agriculture. for a has of as, smaller are for Stockgrowers has which areas as which Game amending easement, out it .! for which such sale state continually Act, by Division set P1 Division areas and other changes Western years are the from as prevention council Branch amended representations and l courses natural to those in Fish Lands the WILDERNESS many streams. Major reserving Forestry unsuitable and and Division Alberta, the reserve of policies and organizations, their Surveys order erosion For and the water of to etc. regulations

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CID •1 C’,= C’, the timber holder, that ‘J.D.” was the owner. Also $hay Locomotives were used to haul the loads to Green Court from where the Canadian National Rail way took them to Edmonton. When I asked who “J.D.” was or witere the logs had been sawn, only vague answers were received. Then Mrs. Ade, widow of camp foreman George Ade, who had lived with her husband in Camp Two for several years, was found and filled in the miss ing links. Her photographs and informa tion, together with that of several other old timers, the Northern Alberta Rail ways and government papers, allowed me to put an almost forgotten part of our province’s history together. Timber Berth Number 1192 was ad vertised for sale on October 28th, 1904, well before the first settlers came to the area which later became known as Con- nor Creek. The timber limit was bought on December 7th, 1904, by Mr. Theo A. Burroughs, Member of Parliament for Winnipeg. Although this gentleman was J. D. McARTHI7R urged from time to time by the federal government to start operations, no log Railroad Contractor and Owner of ging appears to have been done by him. North West Lwber Co. In 1921, the Northwest Lumber Com pany acquired the timber rights and within a year action started. The owner Arthur acquired control of the Alberta of the company was Mr. J. 0. McArthur. and Great Waterways Railway. Con struction earlier but “‘J. 0.’, as he was commonly called, had started sus despite his lack of formal education, was pended. Starting work from Carbondale one of a group of famous empire builders in 1914, Lac La Biche was reached dur who came from Glengarry County, On ing July, 1916, and Draper in 1922. tario. He, along with the McMarties, In the meantime, McArthur started Macflonnels, etc., made enviable repu the North West Lumber Company and tations as men who could get things acquired timber licences by purchase done. They contributed in no small way from their owners. He built a railroad to the Canada of today. J.D.’ was a to one of these, starting at the vil big man, well over six feet tall and as lage of Green Court, in 1922, plunging his name implies, of highland ancestry. through a large swamp in a north east He had unlimited energy, a natural erly direction straight for the timber FOREST SERVICE, EDMONTON BY EDO NYLAND. FORESTER. ALBERTA capacity for leadership and was anxious stands. The going was rough and con to see Alberta settled with land being sidering the remnants of their labours, brought into production.” During the spring of 1968, 1 was me realize this had once been a railroad. it must have been a titanic task. To checking timbered lands north of Mayer- Then I remembered having been told McArthur was a railroad contractor, build this railway the first three miles some railroad logging had of to be laid floating muskeg. thorpe, 75 miles northwest of Edmonton. that years ago who finished a large section the had through done east of Whitecourt but where Trans-Continental Railway east of Win Where there was no footing, balsam Noticing pi?es of what looked like rail- been it had been, I didn’t know. nipeg in 1907. He moved to Edmonton trees were laid side by side, rip-rap ties stacked neatly beside an old rood with a large crew of experienced rail fashion, better known as corduroy. trail, my first thou g]tt was After talking to local residents, it grown-over way workers to start construction in When this sank into the swamp under ties hod been cut for sale turned out that a number of the area’s that railway 1912, on the Edmonton-Dunvegan and the weight of the train, more layers of was white spruce old time loggers were still alive and full and forgotten, but this British Columbia Railways, commonly trees were added. The one-mile stretch and spruce is never used for of information. They all knew that the country called the E.D. & B.C. In 1913, Mc- past the lake, where the steam engine ties. Tie imprints in the ground made North West Lumber Company had been 27 26 took on water, was to he constant work Few of the workers were ever al for the next ten years. When one or lowed in it and the car is talked about more cars derailed, three toots of the as a legend. Its appearance in the steam whistle would tell the railway Green Court or the logging area was gang hack at camp that there was long after discussed as a news item. trouble in the swamp. Help would soon Because of the age of the car and its be on the way. inability to keep up with the needs of When the timber was reached, Camp modern railroading, the car was de One was built with Mr. Jack McNish stroyed several years ago. as the camp foreman. The camp had Trees were felled with crosscut saw only a few buildings, a repair shop for and double bitted axe, cut into 12-16 the engine and railroad cars plus bunk foot lengths and loaded on sleighs drawn houses for the men. After Camp One the rails. was finished in 1922, Camp Two was by four horses to be hauled to constructed. Logging started that same An A-frame called a ‘jammer’ was used winter. The man in charge of all oper to load the logs onto the flatcars. ations was Archie McGregor and he was The Shay steam locomotive was known as the walking boss. something special to see and hear. The On rare occasions McArthur would wheels were driven by worm gears arrive in his private railway car. This which geared down the steam engine’s was a very elaborately built unit, fin speed to give the wheels great power ished in rosewood. The car at one time but only little forward motion. Hearing belonged to U.S. President McKinley. the engine, one would say that it was

KRAUSE’S BUSH CAMP RAILWAY BED SHOWING DITCH DUG IN 1922

doing 80 miles per hour when actually of chinked logs. Bunks were made of it travelled only eight to ten miles per rough lumber or thin poles and covered hour. with straw which served as a mattress but the food was wholesome and good. The rail bed was rough and steep in A large wood stove would stand in the places, often slanting to one side or the middle of the cabin which the “bull other and when going through the large cook” was supposed to light in the Green Court swamp, frequently under morning. water. It was a constant battle to keep the steel in operating condition. “Bull Cook” is a term left over from earlier logging days when bulls were Over the next nine years, a total used instead of horses to skid trees out of 174 miles of main line were built of the bush. The man who looked after through the timber berth and many the feeding of the bulls was the bull miles of side spurs were laid. These cook. With the disappearance of the served only for a short time until the bulls from the logging show, the bull trees were removed. cook was kept on to chop firewood, sweep the floors, supply the cabins with Several small contractors were log water for the workers and have the ging for the company; Kooley, Krause stoves burning when they came home and Craig being some of them. They all after a day’ work. had their own camps. The brothers, Frank and Julius Krause, worked to Wages were low compared to today’s gether and built the first contractor’s pay. A labourer would earn $26.00 per camp in 1923. (The son of Julius Krause month while a four-horse teamster is the present Superintendent of the picked up $45.00. Meals were “expen Whitecourt Forest.) Living conditions sive”, the average cost to the company were primitive. The buildings were made was 13 cents per person. 28 29 L— Entertainment was free. There al active. Mr. George Millburn, the jammer Lii.. ways appeared to be a number of talent operator, is now 82 and still swings an ) ed people located in the camps. Many axe and runs his farm just north of MA! sing-songs were held to the accompani Green Court. ment of banjos and guitars. Home-made The spring of 1928 was extremely shows featured stepdancers and vocal dry and windy. Sparks thrown by the ists. Even dances were held, especially locomotive had in Camp Two where there were at least Shay already started a few women. These women were not several small fires in May along the mainline. Luckily the fires had been enough so more ladies were “created” by tying hankies to the sleeves of some quickly extinguished. Then one fire slighter built men, identifying them as started near Camp Three which strong females. This was all endured in good winds blew out of control into a full fun. scale forest fire. All available men of the other camps joined Bill Gorman’s As the years went by, the camps be- crew in the fight, but they could not caine larger until in the winter of 1928- keep the fire from the one mile of track 29 when a total of 700 men worked in near the camp. Considerable equipment the camps. Some only stayed a few days and nearly five and one-half mIllion but most finished off the winter. The board feet of decked spruce logs were steady workers were usually the home destroyed. - steaders from nearby communities of This fire, however, was not the only Connor Creek, Peavine, Moose Wallow, Pulling loaded cars to Green Court, 1927 Green Court, Mayerthorpe and Blue one to do damage. To the north, close Ridge. to the Athabasca River, the Chisholm Logging Company had a large fire in Several of the men are still alive and their timber berth. It is reported that this company was reluctant to fight this Logging went on at a fast pace. The fire because the best and easiest access locomotive was kept busy ferrying the ible timber had already been taken and loaded flatcars to Green Court, usually what was now burning had been ex no more than six cars at a time. Every The brand new “SW&Y” photographed in the Dunvegan Yard just before pensive to haul to the river. Therefore, day a train of 23 or 24 loaded cars it left for the logging area, 1927 little action was taken and valuable would leave Green Court for Edmonton, timber stands of white spruce went up taking the logs to the large mill at the in smoke. Dunvegan yard of the ED. & B.C. Rail road near St. Albert. The same location After this bad fire, only one more is where the Nelson Lumber Company is camp was started, that of D. Gooley’s. now located. Two or three loads of logs The subsequent years sv enormous a hut around it and lived cosily for fires destroy what was left of the timber several years until the stove was beyond and camps. What had once been beauti repair. ful forested land was now reduced tO The large mill on the St. Albert charcoal. The topsoil burned off and Trail also burned in a spectacular fire, repeated burns destroyed the fertility probably in 1932. What was left after of the soil. The area became one the fire was burned machine parts and large barren plain dotted with charred junk. This was all pushed into the log stumps. pond and filled up with dirt. Only last year, the Nelson Lumber Company acci the Homesteaders came in to farm dentally found the old pond again when could land which not produce agricul the footings for a new warehouse were Rocky soil farm tural crops. prevented being put in. The workers found fly machinery from operating properly. wheels, scrap metal, concrete slabs and Back-breaking labor was put to clearing blocks embedded in the mud. the land of stumps and stacking the debris. In the long run, most left and This was the end of the once-great the majority of the land reverted back North West Lumber Company. Their to the Crown due to non-payment of still active timber berths were finished taxes. Today only one bachelor is left. by other companies. Apparently, J. D. He lives in au old shack on the site of McArthur died by this time and “the Camp Two. When the old camp burnt, spark” left the company. In fact, this only metal debris was left. Ray Smith whole history is McArthur’s because found the large kitchen range and fixed without his drive and knowledge of rail it up so it could be used again. Since it road construction, this unusual oper was too big to put in a shack, he built ation would never have been. GEORGE MILLHURN, the Jammer Operator, loading a sleigh, 1928

1 Log decks along the tracks. Janimer in position to do stacking of logs would be rolled into the pond behind the clevis and skinned his toes to the bone. ready for shipment by rail, 1925 mill to be eased onto the jack ladder, an Problems with running in winter con endless chain with hooks, which would ditions plus the difficulty of repairs put take the logs to the head saw. It not an end to this worthwhile effort. only handled logs from the Green Court Old Doctor Walachow of Mayer- areas but also from many other berths thorpe was kept busy treating the in the Athabasca, Pembina and Canyon loggers, especially the men handling Creek areas. Logs cut along the Atha horses. It was a long, rough ride for an basca were floated to Chisholm where injured worker; but if necessary, the a large boom strung across the river trip could be made on the rails in an \‘\ would force the logs into a backwater. hour and a half. Most injuries result Then the logs were loaded onto railway ed from horse kicks and axe cuts; :Li cars for shipment to the North West occasionally a foot was broken when a Mill. The lumber produced at this mill log skidded over it. As far as is known, went mainly into building construction no one was killed. between 1922 and 1933. in Edmonton After the 1931-32 winter, the timber Back in the timber, the last valuable berth was abandoned. Not all timber had I stands were attacked. McArthur pur been removed; in fact, several million -:‘ - chased a crawler tractor in 1929 to try board feet in smaller diameter trees lJ •‘ to improve the skidding and hauling of were still standing together with the of In total, logs. This may have been the first time unlogged portions the berth. 1. in Alberta that a crawler tractor was close to 335 million board feet had been used for logging. The operation of this removed to Edmonton in eleven years machine apparently was a problem. On of operation. The rails were taken up one of the first days that it was used, during the summer of 1932 and all George Ade got his foot caught in the equipment removed. 32 L than clear, will ensure its safety for Life cycle of this parasite is illus human consumption. trated in figure 1. The host for the adult which in small Parasites encountered in Alberta fish tapeworm, lives the are extremely varied and represent intestines of man, and in dogs and bears, many of the branches of the animal infects natural waters by the passage of kingdom. The abnormalities reported by eggs produced by the tapeworm. These anglers may be caused by bacteria, by eggs hatch into tiny, free-swimming shrimp-like organisms, by the more larvae which are eaten by a copepod, a familiar tapeworm or even fungi. They tiny shrimp-like animal. Copepod is one may be present on any part of the body of the myriads of small animals making from the eye to the gills, skin or flesh. up the plankton of our waters. This It is unlikely that a fish taken by an larva changes its form while in the angler will harbour more than one of copepod. If the copepod is then eaten these parasites. It can be safely said by a fish, the larva inside it is not di that many of our fish do not contain gested. It is resistant to the digestive parasites at all. processes of the fish and in turn set free in the fish’s stomach. It then mi There is one parasite which should grates through the stomach wall and illustrative and descriptive be used for grotvs into a larger, ‘- to 2-inch white purposes since it is the only one known larva in other organs or in flesh of the which man (among other mammals) fish. If this fish is then eaten by a bear, can be infected with as a result of eat dogs or humans, a cyst may develop into ing certain fish. This is the Broad Tape an adult tapeworm, thus completing the worm (Dibothriocephotus sp.), which is life cycle. The Broad Tapeworm is the common in some of the more northerly only parasite found in fish of Alberta areas generally in walleye (pickerel) (compared to two found in big game) where the presence of the larvae in fish which can infect man. Proper cooking is maintained by the nearness of sled of fish eliminates this possibility. dogs, bear and human populations. The mentioned mammals serve as hosts for Apart from this one parasite, there the adult tapeworm. are many others which the angler may

FIG. 1 —— The life history of the Broad Tapeworm. This is the only fish parasite in Alberta which is infectious to humans.

BY MICHAEL R. ROBERTSON, FISHERY BIOLOGIST BROAD TAPEWORM (DIBOTHRIOCEPHALUS sp)

One’ of the basic things which most sight of a worm dangling from a hook. moving COPEPOD IN WATER animals have in common is that they However, the sight of a worm MAMMAL (DOG. MAN, BEAR) harbour some type of parasite. In fact, in the stomach or flesh of a freshly EGGS parasites themselves may also carry caught trout will sometimes cause a parasites. disconcerting reaction, which usually re F, suits in a letter or phone call to the When compared with fish from other nearest Fish and Wildlife office. IN TEST I areas of the world the fish in Alberta The most commonly asked question LARVAL TAPEWORM appear relatively parasite free. The fact concerns the possibility of danger from DEVELOPS must be faced, however, that many of consuming fish which are harbouring FISH EATEN our fish can harbour several varieties of parasites. Cooking of fish will kill any BY MAMMAL BY FISH parasites. Most fishermen have prob parasite, larva or cyst, which may occur ably encountered one or more of these, on or in the fish. Freezing, pickling depending upon the variety of fish which or even smoking of fish will not guaran they have caught and the lake or stream tee its safety for human consumption. LARVAL TAPEWORM from which they took them. The major Cooking any fish properly, until the ENCYSTS IN FLESH OF WALLEYE, LAKE TROUT, ity of anglers are not disturbed by the flesh is firm and milky-white, rather RAINBOW TROUT, ETC. 34 encounter during his associations with 3. Habitat — fish living in streams may PIKE—WHITEFISHTAPEWORM(TRIAENOPHORUS.spp) our Alberta fish. Some appear in the harbour different parasites from fish form of a large number of black spots living in lakes. in the skin (Figure 2). Others may ap The effect of parasites on fish may ADULT TAPEWDRM IN PIKE INTESTINE pear as tiny lice on the gills or fins, also vary. Many parasites have very large white fungus - like growths or little obvious effect on the fish which ulcered sores on the fish’s sides. These serve as their hosts. However, it pays are all quite common and except for certain parasites to affect the host in a aesthetic considerations should not be particular way, thus increasing the of concern to the angler nor affect his chance that this fish will be eaten by use of the fish. CISCO EATEN some animal which forms the next stage BY P There are several factors affecting in the parasite’s life-cycle. For example, the numbers and types of parasites en the large body-cavity tapeworm larva countered in fish: (Ligula intestinal(s) is often seen in Spot-tail Shiners and Yellow Perch. — LARVA EATEN 1. The size of the fish population Most anglers are familiar with this BY COPEPOD the more dense the population, the LARVAL TAPEWORMS PDRM tapeworm in shiners from experiences GDLDEN CYSTS IN PLESH greater the changes of parasitic in in earlier years when these fish were festation. Populations of Yellow permitted as bait. People often re Perch which are stunted due to over CISCD TULLIBEE) marked at the fact that this larva made DR WHITEPISH EATS COPEPOD crowding, for example, often have up half of the total weight of the min heavy parasite infestations. now. This, intum, caused the fish to 2. Age — the older the fish, the longer swim sluggishly or differently from it has been exposed to parasites others in the school. Consequently, the FIG. 3—The life history of the Pike-Whitefish Tapeworm. This parasite, although (there are however a few exceptions infected fish is more susceptible to pre harmless to man, can affect Alberta’s commercial fish exports. to this rule). Also, a young fish may dation. It is no coincidence, therefore, eat different food from older fish that the adult of this tapeworm lives in and thus be exposed to different the intestine of fish-eating birds like parasites. gulls, terns or mergansers. Fish growth rates may be affected An example of a parasite which by heavy infestations of parasites and affects the market value of a com while usually not contributing directly mercially harvested fish is the pike- FIG. 2—The life history of “Black-Spot”, a parasite common to to fish mortality, the reduced efficiency whitefish tapeworm, Triaenophorus spp. Alberta Perch and Minnows. of certain of a fish’s natural functions The adult lives in the intestine of a pike BLACK SPOT (NEASCUS spp) could cause fish to perish if they also and the last larval stage takes the form suffer other environmental stresses. In of a golden cyst in the flesh of Lake Whitefish (Figure 3). All stages of this Lac La Biche, for example, during the parasite are completely harmless to summer of 1965, the ciscoes (a small humans. Whitefish containing more than CYSTS (BLACK SPOTS) IN member of the whitefish family) were a certain number of these cysts are not IN SKIN ADULT TAPEWORM FISH—EATING BIRD heavily parasitized by a tiny shrimp-like permitted for export into the United copepod (Ergasilus sp.) which attached States. Here, the purely aesthetic effect of a fish parasite affects its market r itself to the fish’s gills. In many fish, quality. several hundred such parasites occurred FISH (PERCH, MINNOW) on each gill. This alone was not enough Parasites of fish are not as well known as perhaps they should be. Their to kill the fish. However, during that life histories may be very simple or ex summer, an extended period of very tremely complicated. From the point of calm, hot weather produced heavy view of treating fish for parasites, this MIRACIDIUMp blooms of algae and markedly reduced is usually only feasible in a fish hatch MET AC E RCA R IA the dissolved oxygen in the water. Nor ery. Treatment of even our smaller mally, these fish could have survived lakes is financially and practically im but due to the heavy infestation of this possible. Consequently, if anglers wish gill parasite the ciscoes’ ability to resist to continuc to enjoy their wonderful low oxygen concentrations was reduced Alberta sport-fishing they must accept and large numbers of them died. the presence of these “quiet” organisms. 36 37 anger vented upon him by the plantation As the young horse grew tired and owner. John was able to collect his thoughts, John Ware was 20 years old at the he became conscious of the loose raw end of the United States civil war when hide reins he was holding and discovered Abraham Lincoln’s emancipation order a use for them. With his pull on the to free all slaves in the United States right leather the bay yielded, circled in “MATOXY became law. that direction, and continued to run at only a slightly slackened pace in the As a free man, John Ware moved direction of the corral so recently left SEX APEE from South Carolina westward to Texas, in mad flight. where he obtained his first full time job on a ranch near Fort Worth. It was For John there was the sensation of QUIN” during his employment on the Murphy triumph. Fear departed. He was still ranch that John was most happy and he on the horse and now, with a rein held firmly BADBLACKWHITEMAN discovered a fondness for horses which in each hand, he was in control. for the first time in his life gave him a Half way back to the corral he purpose worth pursuing. He wanted to met Young Murph on a grey gelding, be able to ride and rope like his em anxiously on his way to rescue or find ployer, and to this end John Ware prac the terrified young Negro by making his a I. tised his roping and when he decided he first ride. 4, was expert enough with throwing the ¶ “Are you all right?” Young Murph lariat he requested his boss to permit 4 asked while scanning the panting colt him to try riding one of his horses. to make sure there was no outward Permission was granted and injury. 0 although he was warned he could get hurt he was With a broad grin betraying the given a half-broken horse for his first satisfaction of mastery, John replied, attempt at riding. “Ah’m fine, Boss, but ah was afearin The colt was bridled but not saddled ah’d neva see yo again. We seemed to BY W. T. GALLIVER, ADMINISTRATIVE OFFIcER, PRovINcIAL PARKS when John leaped on — almost as a cat be leavin Texas in a big hurry.” would pounce on a mouse and the ‘Don’t know how you managed to half-broken horse’s inclination was to stay on when you jumped that fence. “John Ware, ex-slave from the South of the ranchers, associates and friends buck or run. It did both bucked first, It’s a four-foot fence. Holy Jerusalem, 25 cowhand of who left an indelible and for years a rancher and John Ware, then dashed toward the logs forming that thing can jump — and run. Do head yo in the West, owner of a thousand mark in the pioneer history of Alberta. the corral fence, bounded into space like want me to lead him back for you?” of the finest range cattle on the Red begin of early a deer taking a deadfall, cleared the To the story this “Ah’ll ride him Boss. Ah knows how Deer River, was killed today by a horse rancher and horseman we will have to wall and galloped out across the plain. stu7nblntg and falling on him, killing And John, miraculously, was still riding, to do it now. Ah found how to make a return to a large cotton plantation near hoss turn.” him instantly. Deceased was 60 years Georgetown, South Carolina, and the still clutching the animal’s mane and old and leaves a family.” year 1845. pressing his untrained heels irritatingly Returning to the corral the two against the pony’s sensitive rear flanks. riders were met Thus the Calgary Daily Herald of by Old Murph, on foot, John Ware’s birth on the South The Murphys, completely unable to excited and shouting. “Gosha’ mighty, September 12, 1905, carried news from Carolina cotton plantation was an event intervene, watched with astonishment. man, can that thing go! Why, ‘Brooks, Alberta,” informing a saddened there of small consequence, except to keep his They expected to witness mishap — ain’t a nag in Texas frontier of the passing of a familiar to catch him. mother away from cotton work for a probably a mangled human body. Wonder personality. Feelingly, the pioneers for you didn’t kill yourself though, few days. He was just one more curly- Old Murph, fear mingled with surprise John. Nobody hurt, I guess. Say, whispered, “John is dead! He was a that haired “pickaninny” in a community and admiration fear for safety of a colt’s going like a broke horse now. great soul.” Even 50 years later, when where people were restrained in every boy he was growing to like, surprise That’s one horse that’s not for sale. No men of the Old Range gathered at Cal thing except propogation. that John had not fallen, and admiration sir! If he can run that fast, he can trot gary’s Palliser Hotel for the Annual During his early years on the for the little bay gelding showing almost too. We’ve got to get harness on that Rangemen’s Dinner, one of the patri planta developed unbelievable speed. fellow. I’ll train him myself. What’re archs proclaimed softly: “John Ware! tion as a slave, John Ware handsome physical specimen and we going to call him? John, got any Bless his Negro heart. He was the finest into a Horse and rider, still streaking away had a deep feeling of fair play and was ideas?” gentleman I ever knew.” in the general direction of Mexico, adverse to the bullying tactics employed dropped from sight as they entered a John was standing beside the gelding, The above quotation from the book by the plantation owner. Because of his dry ravine, came back into view on the rubbing foamy sweat from the animal’s “John Ware’s Cow Country” by Grant independent spirit, John Ware on more other side and, finally, disappeared in steaming hide. “Call ‘im Jack Rabbit or MacEwan, expressed the feeling of many than one occasion became victim to the the belt of trees near the river. Hound Dog,” John replied, half in fun. 38 39 “All right. He’s Hound Dog.” intervened and completely changed the cluding the cook were present to see if John Ware’s next experience was to shape of destiny for John Ware and for the fellow from the night herd would ride in a saddle and in the days to fol Canadian ranching. He was Tom Lynch, bounce when he hit the ground. Nobody low he was on a horse whenever there stockman extraordinary, who wore out except Moodie had any idea of what was opportunity, sometimes working his saddles faster than his boots. John might be capable of doing and he young horses, sometimes riding with Things were stirring in the North, said nothing. Young Murph. where Canadian grass was attracting With John seated insecurely in the In 1879, John received his first attention. The buffalo, whose millions saddle, the wicked horse was released. chance to ride with the big trail herd had been so recently destroyed, had The white around its eyes disclosed its going from Texas through to the new fancied the northern grazing as much evil temper and with ears back and ranges in Montana. A toal of 12 cow as any other, and there was no reason mouth wide open it leaped instantly to boys including John and a foreman, to suppose that ranching opportunities be rid of this human parasite; kicked, horse-wrangler and cook, together with ended at the international boundary. pitched, sunfished and did unnamed con some 80 horses set out for delivery to Tom Lynch was in Montana to as tortions in the air. As the horse groaned Montana of 2,400 uncooperative, bawl semble a crew of dependable cowboys in its violent heaves, the rider gave ing, ill tempered Texas cows largely who understood the way of cattle and forth some fiendish yells as though ter horns, legs and tails. horses to drive a total of 3,000 head ribly worried. But he was not unseated After four months and nearly 2,000 from Montana into Canada. and was not really worried. miles of trail travel, the trail-weary “Hire John Ware?” Lynch was cold Gradually the outlaw horse was giv Texas cattle were delivered to their to that idea. He needed especially good ing up its fight, and members of the Montana owner in the Judith Basin and and able men for this expedition through little audience standing beside a prairie branded. The cowboys were paid off and mountains and remote regions known Mrs. Ware, Robert, Nettie and water-hole — old hands with horses — separated, some would return to the Rio for their rustler bands. He couldn’t af John Ware looked on with silent awe. Cowboys, Grande; some would seek fortunes in ford to experiment with greenhorns and forgetting their plot to create some fun and one the gold diggings farther west apprentices. Negroes, Lynch knew, had then northward on the Madison-Gallatin at John Ware’s expense, knew they were announced his intention of ‘taking a never distinguished themselves as horse Trail leading through rugged country, seeing an exhibition of rough-riding such look at the grass up in Canada when men and cowboys and, besides, this man over the Monida Pass and into the State as to fill every one of them with ad so it”. we’re close to Ware of whom Moodie was talking was of Montana. But Tom Lynch — at home miration and, indeed, envy. ‘Close to it?” John asked. “Where is on foot; perhaps he couldn’t even saddle anywhere west of Chicago and Winnipeg At the end of the ride, as the once- Canada from here?” He had no reason a horse, let alone ride one. The fact was — knew exactly where he was going. He famous bucking horse stood in subdued for more than casual interest. He in that he didn’t want Ware but these had been over this route before when, quiet, and surprised cowboys struggled tended to return to Texas and Blandons, were Moodie’s terms: “take both of us as a youth, he had helped to drive cattle to find words of praise, the smiling but Bill Moodie, his riding mate on the or neither”, and Lynch wanted Moodie. from Oregon to the mines in Western night-herder dismounted, saying apa drag end of the trail herd, wanted to “All right,” Lynch replied, annoyed Montana. thetically, “Thanks Boss. Ah” keep this go on toward the Rocky Mountains and to be capitulating to such a demand, Weeks after departure, as the herd boss -— if it’s awl right with you.” Virginia famous by a gold City made “We’ll take your little colored friend was resting between Virginia City and “Keep that horse? You can sure keep John agreed to go too. rush. too. He’ll probably eat more than he’s Helena, John mustered courage to make him,” the foreman was saying. “Nobody “Won’t be many cattle back there,” worth but, damn it, we’ll take him. Can a request he had wanted to make ever else ever wanted him. If you can make Bill allowed, “but I figure we can look he hang on a horse?” since the trip began. “Boss,” he said a working horse out of him, he’s sure after ourselves and, who knows, we John Ware was given a dilapidated shyly, “ah was just awunderin if you’d your pony, John. That was a great ride. might hit gold.” saddle with rope for a stirrup, a debili give me a little betta saddle an a little You’ve been fooling us, eh!” John Ware tried his hand at digging tated horse, and informed of his job, wuss hoss, cause ah thinks ali can ride From the moment of that notable for Montana gold — which proved un that of night herding. It was the assign urn, maybe.” demonstration, John Ware commanded rewarding and after trying his hand at ment nobody else wanted — sitting alone Cowboys hearing the suggestion a new measure of respect. One of the hunting in the mountains decided to and singing through the long eerie hours chuckled and thought they recognized cowboys quit at Helena and John was locate his old side kick Bill Moodie to of darkness, but John lid his disap an opportunity for some entertainment. promoted from night herding to day return to fort Worth. pointment with a smile and said, “Them They felt the need for something to crew. His new position was near the It was early in 1882 when John cows’ll know all ma songs by the time break the monotony of the constant point of the herd, and never again on found his old friend, back in the saddle we get t’ Canada.” But notwithstanding company with the longhorns. There was that drive was he asked to take a night and doing well as an Idaho cowhand. the despised task of keeping the sleepy a single horse in the group which had shift. Never again was there any doubt The white man had a warm welcome herd company at night, John was glad taken the conceit out of more than one about his skill as a horseman. for his former riding partner and was to be earning “a dollar a day and grub”; seasoned cowboy. If the night herder Early in September the herd crossed ready to consider the proposition, to go once again glad to be working close to wanted a “wuss lioss”, he might as the border and continued on Canadian back over the long trail. But at this Bill Moodie. well have one that would furnish some soil. “Just a little more than a hundred point a long, lean, Canadian cattleman, The route lay eastward along an old amusement. What John was given was miles to go now,” the foreman an all bone and muscle like a Texas steer, trail crossing Idaho from Oregon and this outlaw broncho, and all hands in- nounced. “We’ll be there in 10 days.” 40 41 Indian summer dignified the country ened their pace to 15 miles a day, forded One day while Fred Irigs and John Before those June operations were side as Tom Lynch and his men con the Highwood River without urging, and were on a combined range and patrol completed, John Ware bought nine tinued their course on or close to the settled down for the night of September ride they encountered a camp of Sarcees young cow mavericks and paid about Macleod Trail, that li”eline linking Fort 25, 1882, at their destination. beside the Highwood, close to where $300 from his savings to the round-up Macleod to Fort Calgary. The mountains cattle were grazing. With the air of a John Ware was captivated by the association which was trying desperately with fresh snow on their peaks stood field marshal, John commanded the frontier spirit, and was convinced that to establish its right to sell unbranded out like polished monuments. Deer and occupants to move. There was no re the country would give a fellow like cattle to pay general expenses. antelope were numerous and screaming sponse, but the man’s face revealed his himself a fair chance to be a man. He hawks glided overhead, but the hand of determination. Though the Indians were But regardless of the association’s accepted the offer of $25.00 per month man was not much in evidence. The nursing hostility, John rode boldly to entitlement to the proceeds from un to stay and work in Canada for Tom dozen cattlemen and their cattle seemed the centre of the camp, roped the poles claimed cattle, the colored cowboy now Lynch. to have the trail to themselves, except of the biggest teepee and pulled every had cattle of his own buying, even here and there. At the Leavings of John Ware worked on the ranges on thing to the ground. When there was though the number was small, and he Willow Creek a stage coach drawn by roundup and drives in the country be still no willingness to move, he seized a had more friends than ever. More and four horses and directed by a joyful tween Higliwood River and Old Man stout branch from a green poplar and more people were looking at this former driver waving a bottle, circled widely to River. It was during one of his visits to proceeded to chase the Indians away. slave with a special sort of admiration escape the herd. A little farther along, Calgary John Ware had made up his There were guns on both sides but, and respect. That fact was made very an I. G. Baker bull-train returning from mind to obtain a homestead quarter happily, they were not drawn. clear by an item appearing in the Mac Fort Calgary held rigidly to the trail section and before leaving Calgary made The Sarcees couldn’t understand leod Gazette on June 23, 1885: “If there and temporarily split the immigrant official entry for the homestead quarter John Ware. They were fascinated — is a man on the round-up who keeps up herd. A few curious Blackfoot Indians section. However, John Ware never almost hypnotized — by his courage and the spirit of the boys more than another came to watch in silence as the cattle completed the partially finished cabin physical prowess, but he filled them and who provides more amusement to went by, but neither barbed wire, culti that he had erected on his homestead. with fear at times. The possibility of break the monotony, this man is John vated land nor human habitation more During the time of the Riel Rebellion this distinctive fellow having some kin Ware. John is not only one of the best permanent than a teepee was seen be John Ware was recruited for the Stim ship with the spirit world was not over natured and most obliging fellows in the tween Willow Creek and the Crossing son Rangers on a type of home guard looked. The wise men of the tribe re country, but he is one of the shrewdest at Highwood. duty and while on his patrol during this jected such a theory but were unable cow men . . . The horse is not running ride, As though knowing they were near period, showed a definite firmness in to offer an explanation for his colour. on the prairie which John cannot ing their destination, the cattle quick- dealing with the wayward Indians. To the tribesmen, any person who sitting with his face either to the head wasn’t an Indian was a “white man”. or tail, and even if the animal chooses Understandably, John Ware became to stand on its head or lie on its back, known to them as Matoxy Sex Apee John always appears on top when the Quin, meaning “bad black white man”. horse gets up, and smiles as if he en joyed it — and he probably does.” During the roundup of 1885 John Ware visited the office of C. E. D. It was in 1885 that John Ware went Wood, the Recorder of Brands, and on to work for the Quom Ranches owned May 25 announced that he wanted to by Irishman John J. Barter. Behind the register a mark for his own cattle. Quorn enterprise was a syndicate of fox “What brand do you want?” was hunting English capitalists and the Wood’s next question. John answered, ranch name was adopted from the “Ali figures 8 is ma good number. Ah’ve Quorn Hunt Club in Leicestershire. got enough money saved t’ buy nine Under such circumstances, nobody could cows.” expect ranch plans to be strictly com “All right,” Wood replied, “I can monplace. Cattle were to have a part in give you the 9 brand. Want a single 9?” ranch operations, but company directors “No, ah’d lak t’ have quite a few. with romantic dreams about horses, Would you give me about four 9s?” planned to specialize in remounts — one ‘You’ll need big cattle to carry that or two crosses of thoroughbred on native many. But sure, there’s no reason why mares — for British cavalry. you can’t have them.” There was no shortage of capital, it And so, Brand Recorder Wood, the seemed, and ranch buildings then under man tvho was mainly responsible for construction on the south side of Sheep starting the Macleod Gazette three Creek and eight miles west of Stoney years before, inscribed a new entry in Crossing — later Okotoks — were well his big book 9999 on left rib registered constructed and elaborate for that time John Ware cabin now located in Dinosaur Provincial Park to John Ware, May 25, 1885. and place. 42 43 There were many old country visitors somebody who knows how to do it will It was a long trip over snow-covered to the Quorn Ranch and mounted on come along someday and strike the oil trails and should have been both chilling the fine thoroughbred horses being bred that seepage is coming from—and make and tiring. At the Quorn Ranch the at the ranch the English aristrocrat a million dollars. They’ll never know honeymooners stopped for supper. J. J. often partook at riding to fox and it was you who discovered it either, Barten extended a welcome, thinking of hounds with the fox being substituted John Ware.” the day on which he planned the meet ing of John and Mildred. for by the wily prairie wolf, the coyote. It was during 1890 that John Ware With unre Through John Ware’s gentleness and fixed his homestead location in the strained pride the groom introduced his to others love of horses and his superb horseman country higher on the Sheep Creek. bride the at the ranch house. ship in the field he endeared himself to After more hours of travel through many of the visitors to the Quorn Ranch Among the settlers coming to the West from Eastern Canada was Negro that moon-lit winter night, they were and in particular to one “Lord Harold”. at their own log house, warm because Prior to Lord Harold’s departure for Dan V. Lewis with a family including an attractive daughter of marriageable John Quirk had been there to make a England John Ware was made a guest fire. for dinner with the young Englishmen age. The Lewis family, from Toronto, The very next evening, Negro at their special table in the ranch house. had taken a homestead two miles south the Wares had company The Englishmen all were dressed in of Shepard. News of the arrival of the — the Irish Quirks, the their formal clothes and John came in Lewis family to the area was related to American Sam Howe, the Mexican Ferdinos, and the Mrs. Mildred Ware with Robert, the only clothes he owned but he ad John Ware by his companion, John half-breed Fidlers ar rived over the snow Janet and John Ware mired the dress suits and pressed his Barter. to extend a foothills welcome to the newlyweds. The women rough fingers on the cloth to judge its After the spring round-up in 1891, fine texture. With unhidden admiration in the party brought buckets of sand John drove all the 9999 brand cattle to wiches, expressing and some pardonable covetousness, he the genuineness of use. John Ware had been one of them. the higher ranges, away west of the rangeland neighborliness. tried to put on Lord Harold’s Prince Quorn, and took up bachelor residence “The way they ah plowing up this good Albert coat. in an unfinished log house beside Sheep Nobody on that frontier talked about g’ass,” he had observed, “they must think it ain’t wo’th much — shoulda left The garment was much too small for Creek. Surveying the rough log struc Brotherhood, but everybody practised it ture set on stones and still unchinked, and graced such practise with the dig mo’ of it the way God planted it. You him but Lord Harold sensing John know, yo can’t plant that kinda g’ass one of he proclaimed from his heart: “Ain’t it nity of sincerity. Mildred thanked her Ware’s thoughts promised him back aftah yo find the land won’t do the coats would be sent to him when beautiful! Ah nevah thought ah’d see a new friends — Irish, American, Mexican and any good fo’ wheat.” he returned to London. The Prince Al house as putry as that’n. An its ah ma Indian and urged them to come bert coat promised by Lord Harold was own.” again, saying, “I’m going to love it here.” Tragedy struck the Ware family, duly delivered by an incoming guest in During this year John Ware was John Ware became the proud father Mother Ware became quite sick. There the months that followed. Lord Harold introduced to the Lewis family by J. J. of a baby girl on March 9, 1893. The being no doctor within calling distance, had not forgotten and John Ware was Barter and was instantly smitten by little baby was named Amanda Janet John nursed her as well as possible, then now the proud possessor of the most the comely beauty of their 19-year-old Ware, but was to become widely known insisted she go to a hospital in Calgary. luxurious dress suit in the Northwest daughter. John courted Mildred Lewis as Nettle Ware. A son was born to the Grandmother Lewis came from Blair- Territories — tails and all. during the year and culminated in Ware family on November 29, 1894. more to care for the five children, during the Christmas Nettie, Robert, William, Mildred and The Prince Albert coat was almost their engagement After losing two of their homes the season. Arthur. a trade mark of this cowboy and several Ware family finally settled five or six of the photographs taken of him showed On leap year day Rev. George Cross, miles back from the Red Deer River Eariy on an April morning the Ware him wearing his elegant coat. B.A., Minister in charge of Calgary’s where they had chosen a spot near a family were advised that Mother Ware new Baptist Church, performed the small stream later known as Wares had died of typhoid and pneumonia at In 1888, during one of the explora signed the cer Creek. the Holy Cross Hospital in Calgary. tory trips to locate additional grazing marriage ceremony and recording the fact that “Mr. Sadness settled over the home and over spots in the Sheep Creek area John tificate, It was during 1905 that range ranch Ware of Sheep Creek and Miss ing the community along the Red Deer, Ware discovered an oily scum in a pool John as it had previously been known Lewis of Calgary, were by where Mildred Ware was known as a of water, close to Sheep Creek, in a Mildred J. came to an end with the influx of home in Holy Matrimony, according good cook, a good mother and a good broad valley later known as Turner. me united stead entries in Alberta when barbed ordinances of God and the Laws neighbor. John Ware took a sample of the oily to the wire was becoming as much a part of Canada, at Calgary substance which he later had analyzed of the Dominion of standard ranch equipment as stock The grandmother took the five chil day of February, 1892.” and the report stated that it was prob on the 29th saddles. The Canadian Pacific Railway dren back to Blairmore, and John in ably seepage from a nearby vein of coal. The newlyweds bought some gro was about to irrigate a great tract of vited a colored friend, Pete Smith, to However, John Ware figured that it ceries, dishes, hedsheets and towels at a land east of Calgary, and all together, stay with him and do the cooking. But might be oil and that maybe they would store and drove away over winter roads the West was emerging with a new face. John was lonely; and shortly before his find oil in the valley someday. His and into a new world of romance, with Nor were the changes all good. Un tragic accident, his son Bob, then 10 companion on the trip agreed that it more happiness in their hearts than fortunately, only a few people were years old, returned to the ranch. could be oil seepage and added, “Sure, either had ever known. thinking about the evils of poor land- It was September 12th and a herd of 44 45

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