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Great Hoodoo Hunts PEAK MOMENTS: Climb 15 County High Points JULY 2006 Great Hoodoo 8Hunts Plus El Tejano Terrified Tucson Rattlers Reveal Their Secrets Fish Alongside a Reservation Road 8 The High Life BY BRENDAN LEONARD Departments Hardy hikers bag the land’s highest points — one county at a time. 2 DEAR EDITOR july 2006 20 Home of the Heart BY KATHLEEN WALKER 3 ALL WHO WANDER Tohono O’odham friends teach a thoroughly modern 4 VIEWFINDER writer an ancient truth. ILLUSTRATION BY DANIEL FIEDLER Great photographers dispense pithy pearls. 22 Hoodoo Hunts BY GREGORY MCNAMEE Visit this bestiary of magical rock formations 5 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP where the stone goblins fuse geology and myth. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACK DYKINGA 40 ALONG THE WAY Table tables and baby buttes: What’s in a name? 34 Buried Twice BY LEO W. BANKS The infamous El Tejano terrified Tucson, which contents 42 HIKE OF THE MONTH plugged him, then covered him up. Easy Big Tank trail on the Arizona Strip connects to a 750-mile- 38 Snaky Love BY TERRY GREENE STERLING long, state-length network. Radio transmitter-equipped rattlers reveal their maternal instincts and strange mating 44 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE habits. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTY CORDANO Whistling elk, gleaming trout and vivid history enliven a White Mountain Apache Reservation drive. online arizonahighways.com The best way to beat the heat this month is to head for the high country. FRONT COVER Sculpted by solitude, weather and time, Even if you can’t leave the desert, you can still hit the high points with banded sandstone on the Navajo Indian Reservation our trip planner. To get the lowdown on Arizona summertime adventures, becomes a visual phenomenon known as a hoodoo. go to arizonahighways.com and click on the "July Trip Planner" for: See portfolio, page 22. JACK DYKINGA • High-pointing highlights n To order a print, call (866) 962-1191 or visit • A hoodoo handbook arizonahighways.com. • A rattlesnake review FRONT COVER INSET The higher the toil the ARRESTING CREATURE HUMOR Our writer decides to quench his thirst with heat. sweeter the view. Hikers explore Arizona’s county A greater roadrunner puts on the brakes in ONLINE EXTRA Camp at Eagle Creek. high points. See story, page 8. TOM BEAN Saguaro National Park East. Known for striking a variety of comical poses, these fast-footed WEEKEND GETAWAY Visit Grand Canyon West Ranch. BACK COVER Nearly 11,000 feet tall, Mount Graham birds are some of the only animals known to HISTORY Meet unlucky Joe Goldwater. is the highest point in Graham County and so a prime strike at rattlesnakes. Often working in pairs, target for county high-pointers (see story, page 8). EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan a trip with our calendar of events. they distract, attack and kill their equally However, the top of the mountain is closed off by a striking victims. PAUL & JOYCE BERQUIST University of Arizona telescope complex. STEVE BRUNO n To order a print, call (866) 962-1191 or visit arizonahighways.com. Trek to Navajo White House Ruins Crosses Cultural Divide Perched on the Edge MAY 2006 Your May 2006 cover was terrific, but seeing the hiker perched on an overlook made me shudder. I know that the JULY 2006 VOL. 82, NO. 7 who wander all The Old Man and the Canyon Grand Canyon park rangers wake up every day hoping they Fools and Thunder Walking the Rim Seeking a Cure most Top Out in won’t have to rescue or evacuate (or worse) someone foolish scenic the Land of the Publisher WIN HOLDEN 10 trails Ladybugs Stone goblins and reckless writers dance in the lightning flash take a enough to venture to this spot. You don’t have to read Death Editor PETER ALESHIRE in the Canyon to get that point! Please remind your readers Senior Editor BETH DEVENY that this person has taken a BIG chance. Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN YOU GOT YOUR FOOLS. Web/Research Editor SALLY BENFORD Rick Rockwell, Owings Mills, MD Books Editor BOB ALBANO You got your darn fools. Good point. Risky perch. Very sensible. Better-grounded editors here said the Editorial Assistant PAULY HELLER Then you got your writers. Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER dear editor photograph might frighten otherwise friendly readers. This underscores the Arms akimbo astraddle a Chiricahua rock Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK need for sensible editing. So please everyone: Go, look, quiver, but don’t fall off.—Peter Aleshire, Editor outcrop, I squint at the approaching monsoon Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP thunderstorm. Writing About Heroes a dog, one not on a leash. As we all tried Art Assistant DIANA BENZEL-RICE Never hike among the lightning bolts, said Thank you for writing about the Leukemia to pass, one dog came between us and I Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY my sainted mother. But I be a writer. Surely it & Lymphoma Society Hike for Discovery fell down. This makes for what was a very Production Director KIM ENSENBERGER will not rain on me. Besides, I long for the storm. Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON at the Grand Canyon (May ’06). This hike nice hike into a painful downhill finish. Webmaster VICKY SNOW So off I go, setting myself up. I have but has special meaning for me since I was I am not against dogs, but it just seems Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO this one day to play hooky from my life. I diagnosed with chronic myelogenous best that dogs be kept on a leash so that Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN can go down or turn around, so down I go arizonahighways.com leukemia eight months ago. Since that everyone can be “free” and enjoy. Finance Director BOB ALLEN for an afternoon on Witch Mountain, among by Peter Aleshire, editor @ time, I have met many true heroes, such Lynette Rice, Cochise Information Technology CINDY BORMANIS the stone goblins waiting in the thunder as the Vargases and others mentioned With Lobo, I do wait until we get to the usually gloom — acolytes of the apocalypse. editor Inquiries or orders Toll-free: (800) 543-5432 in the story. Fund raising is especially unpopulated ridge, but you raise a good point. Heck, Phoenix area or outside the U.S. (602) 712-2000 But the goblins know deep secrets, so I’m important now as government funding for half the time I don’t think they ought to let me off the Or visit arizonahighways.com listening, listening, listening — understanding cancer research has decreased. leash —Ed. For Corporate or Trade Sales Dolores Field (602) 712-2045 nothing, wanting everything. I have read all Mary Lou Ludicky, Crystal Lake, IL Letters to the Editor [email protected] the books, studied all the pictures. I am The Ink Stinks 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009 a-shiver with catastrophe. DO AS I SAY Where’s the Locator Map? I am very disappointed that you changed Governor Here’s what they would have us believe: marveling sunbather watching the water Love Arizona and the magazine. We use it the format of the magazine. You also JANET NAPOLITANO Once upon a time, the Earth went crazy. They say it was 27 withdraw to join the oncoming tsunami. Don’t be like Peter. Don’t hike in to plan our winter and fall trips. However, changed the ink. When I open your Director, Department of Transportation million years ago, but this number means nothing to me. They The lightning flashes, startling me. VICTOR M. MENDEZ thunderstorms. Be I very much miss the little map on the magazine, I can’t breathe. Why do you say that two crustal plates get into a ruckus: The Pacific Plate The thunder rumbles, rattling me. sensible. DAVE BLY ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD table of contents page that highlights the guys always have to change things? Chairman James W. Martin goes down under the North American Plate. Maybe it is mad. The fat drops fall, spattering me. locations of stories. Thank you. Vice Chairman Joe Lane Maybe it is weary. Why does a plate descend? Down, down, I am miles from the Jeep and alone with Members S.L. Schorr, Delbert Householder, Arlene and Joseph Stuhl, New York Karl Zemann, Las Vegas, NV Robert M. Montoya, Felipe Andres Zubia, down it goes, into the radium and the mantle and the magma. the goblins. The lightning flashes in the same instant as the We did drop the story locator map on the contents We haven’t changed the ink, but please write again William J. Feldmeier Rock melts. Mountains rise. Basins drop. You got your thunderclap, which deafens me. My heart flashes like a moth page, because it didn’t look as good on a full-bleed, and tell me what element of the redesign bothers International Regional Magazine Association Rocky Mountains. You got your Colorado Plateau. You got your landing on a spotlight. I can smell the ozone. two-page picture there, but added locator maps for you. — Ed. 2004, 2003, 2001, 2000 Magazine of the Year Chiricahua Mountains. The storm comes after me. The goblins dance crazily in the many stories — Ed. Western Publications Association Way, way, way down, the magma rises up, desperate to lightning strobe, furious and terrible. I cower and tremble. Be Film vs. Digital Revisited 2004, 2002, 2001 Best Travel & In-transit Magazine escape. It rises relentlessly along fractures, oozing up, up, up careful what you wish for, even if you are a writer and foolish. Power of Love I’ve just stumbled across Peter Society of American Travel Writers Foundation until it meets the water coming down, until it finds the layers The rain comes in a deluge.
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