Dan Savery Raz, author of Lonely Planet’s Israel & the Palestinian Territories, samples the sweet taste of Haifa and the Carmel Mountains in Israel

or many, Israel means the Holy No visit to Haifa is complete without a trip City of Jerusalem, the mud to the Bahá’í Gardens and Temple. One of spas of the Dead Sea or biblical the most beautiful gardens in the world, FBethlehem. Yet, away from the Bahá’í is as close as Israel gets to Eden. With stereotypes and global headlines, there is over half a million visitors a year, the Bahá’í so much more to this tiny, diverse country. Gardens - a one km staircase of nineteen And Haifa - Israel’s third largest city - makes terraces, gently scaling the northern slope a surprisingly relaxing base from which of - is one of the most to explore the rustic north’s world-class popular sites in the Middle East. The wineries, art galleries and national parks. golden-domed Shrine of the Báb, a glorious temple built with Italian stone and Dutch Just over an hour north by car or train tiles in the 1950’s, sits in the middle of the from Tel Aviv airport, Haifa emerges gardens and dominates from every angle. from the forest hills of Mount Carmel, framed by the glistening Mediterranean The Shrine marks the resting place of Sea. Often overshadowed by Tel Aviv and Báb (meaning ‘gate’), the spiritual founder Jerusalem, Haifa is an extraordinary city of the Bahá’í Faith, who was executed in in its own right: an industrial, medical and Persia in 1850 for his ‘heretical’ teachings. technological hub, that’s The Bahá’í Faith, one also home to a wealth of the world’s youngest of museums, temples “Haifa emerges from religions, is based on the and hillside havens. the forest hills of unity of humanity and Mount Carmel, framed comes from the Arabic Haifa’s port, the biggest by the glistening word baha (‘glory’). Bahá’í and busiest in the country, Mediterranean Sea.” now has over six million is the gateway for Israel’s followers worldwide, but commerce. But it wasn’t people from all faiths always this way. Historically, nearby Akko make the pilgrimage up the 1,700 steps, was favoured over Haifa as the main port, past cascading fountains, to the Shrine. for almost two thousand years. When the Crusaders conquered in 1100 AD, Haifa nother popular pilgrimage is to became an important town, but it later Elijah’s Cave, a small domed fell to pirates and degenerated during chapel on the slopes of Mount Hotel. The museum, founded by Felix the Mameluke and Ottoman periods. In ACarmel, where it is said that Tikotin in 1957, is dedicated to purely the 1920s, British engineer Sir Frederick the Prophet Elijah lived and taught. The Japanese art and exhibits everything Palmer stated that Haifa’s deep waters cave is situated below the Stella Maris from 14th-century Buddhist scrolls to and natural secluded bay made it the Carmelite Monastery, with its exquisite pottery, metal work and new animation. perfect place for large industrial shipping Basilica and painted ceiling depicting the and the port was officially opened in chariots of fire ascending into heaven. The After a long day of sight-seeing, the 1933. The city hasn’t looked back since. Monastery can be reached by climbing the Carmel Forest Spa Resort - Israel’s slopes by foot or taking the free cable car. largest luxury spa - is the perfect place Today, Haifa has come to symbolize to recuperate. Set in 15 acres of private modern multiculturalism: religious and Directly below the cascading Bahá’í woodland around 20 minutes’ drive secular Jews, Christians, Muslims and Gardens lies the ‘German Colony’, a string from the downtown Haifa, this secluded Druze Arabs intermingle on Haifa’s of boutique shops, cafés and restaurants resort offers dozens of health and beauty streets. Perhaps, the most visible sign of lining the promenade of Ben-Gurion treatments, yoga workshops and gourmet this cultural mix is Wadi Nisnas, a bustling Boulevard. For a touch of the Far East in cuisine. Alternatively Villa Carmel, marketplace where Hanukkah, Christmas the Middle East, visit the Tikotin Museum undoubtedly Haifa’s most prestigious and Ramadan are celebrated together. of Japanese Art, next to the Dan Carmel hotel, is within walking distance of the city

56 COX & KINGS Bahá’í Gardens and Temple, Haifa centre. Originally built in the 1940’s (and some of the best houmous in the region. in 1882 by a small group of immigrants from recently renovated), the Villa was the hotel Romania led by the Rothschild family. The of choice for Haifa’s aristocracy, and Israel’s It’s worth taking a short detour to the hill- name Zichron Ya’akov (meaning Jacob’s first Prime Minister David Ben-Gurion. side artist settlement of Ein Hod, which Memorial) was given by Baron Edmond was founded in 1950 by the Dadaist James de Rothschild in memory of his late aifa is ideally situated for painter Marcel Janco, and is home to the father. Today, Zichron still exudes an air of day trips around the north Janco-Dada Museum. This picturesque extravagance, its upscale villas resplendent of Israel. 15 km south of the village is an art-lover’s paradise, and in the southern Carmel hillside. Hcity is Daliyat al-Karmel, you can buy unique pieces straight from the largest Druze village in Israel. The a studio or simply stroll around the The original Carmel Winery was built in Druze - a separatist Arabic community numerous small galleries. 1882 and continues to living in Syria, Lebanon, Jordan and Israel “One of the most make award-winning wine - began life as an off-shoot of Islam and Israel’s best-known beautiful gardens in in Zichron. The largest are widely considered to be a peaceful wineries can be found 35 the world, Bahá’í is winery in Israel in terms people. The main street in Daliyat al- km south of Haifa in the of grapes received at Karmel is lined with shops selling quaint hilltop town of as close as Israel harvest, Carmel produces Arabian rugs, jewellery and also serves Zichron Ya’akov, founded gets to Eden…” 15 million bottles a year

www.coxandkings.co.uk 57 Dor beach, Israel

Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery, Israel

58 NationalCOX park, & CaesareaKINGS Zichron, Israel Carmel Forest Spa Resort

as well as unique blends of olive oil. The beaches. The idyllic Dor Beach is set newly opened Carmel Wine & Culture on a quiet bay near the ruins of an Centre includes a wine shop, bistro, and two ancient harbour, where fishing boats specialist tasting rooms, as well as running bob on the waves and small islands wine workshops in the are only a short wade ISRAEL Rothschild’s underground “Elijah’s Cave - away. The neighbouring cellars. with its exquisite Habonim Nature Reserve FACT BOX Basilica and painted makes for a delightfully Location: The Levant area of the Middle Further down Zichron’s ceiling depicting scenic, coastal walk, and East, bordering the Mediterranean Sea, main pedestrian street, is a bird-spotters delight Jordan, Lebanon, Syria and Egypt the Tishbi Cafe has an the chariots of fire amongst the sand dunes Population: 7.5 million outdoor terrace, where ascending into heaven” and protected rocky coves. Languages: Hebrew, Arabic & English wine enthusiasts can Time: GMT + 2 hours sample the range of aromatic, fruity wines ten-minute drive south of Money: Israeli Shekel (NIS or ILS) (bring a bottle and have it refilled with Zichron leads to the Roman currently 5.82 to £1 the excellent house wine). The Tishbi ruins of Caesarea. This When to go: Spring and autumn are the Cafe also sells delicious wine jams such as impressive national park Dor beach, Israel A best times for sightseeing. ‘Cherry Shiraz’ and ‘Strawberry Merlot’ houses the well-preserved ruins of a Where to stay: There’s a range of made at its winery just out of town. harbour settlement: its labyrinthine white luxury hotels in Jerusalem. The King fortress walls, arches and giant pillars are David Jerusalem Hotel, is one of Israel’s Opposite the Tishbi Cafe, the Aaronsohn complemented by the deep blue of the most famous, steeped in history and NILI Museum houses a collection of Mediterranean Sea. Named after Augustus bursting with character. Alternatively, exotic plants. This small but nonetheless Caesar, this large port city was built by the Mamilla Hotel is one of the city’s fascinating museum also tells the story Herod around 30 BC and eventually newest and most stylish places to stay. of NILI, the resistance movement who became the headquarters of Roman fought alongside the British against the . The most outstanding site at What not to miss: Visit King Herod’s Ottoman Empire during . Caesarea is the huge U-shaped Herodian mountain palace at Masada. amphitheatre, traditionally used for chariot Best meal: Tel Aviv’s colourful farmers’ espite its turbulent history, races, gladiatorial and animal combats to market each Friday, is full of tasty local Zichron is now one of the the delight of some 10,000 spectators. produce and pastries. most serene spots in Israel. These days the ancient theatre plays host Insider tip: Tel Aviv, also known as The sound of wind chimes and to less gruesome events, including classical D the ‘white city’, has been designated the occasional flamenco guitarist coming music concerts and a lively jazz festival. a UNESCO World Heritage Site for from a cafe balcony fill the town an almost its large number of Bauhaus style dreamlike quality. And there is no shortage Round off your day at the Somek Winery buildings. of places to dine. HaNeshika (‘The Kiss’) in Zichron. Owned by the Dahan family, is a gorgeous bakery cum restaurant in a Somek - meaning blush - uses old-growth Best Cox & Kings tour: 8 day escorted converted old country farmhouse and vines dating back to 1892, to produce group tour Israel: A Journey to Jerusalem courtyard. Dishes include saddle of lamb rich, highly-prized reds, such as their priced from £1,995 per person. Includes on a bed of Jerusalem artichokes and lentils, classic Carignan. The hills are studded international flights, accommodation, varied meal plan, fully escorted tour. breast of pork and pork stew of shoulder. with boutique wineries; their terraces Price based on 2 people sharinng. For strictly kosher dining, the newly- offering panoramic views of the rolling opened Besarim restaurant - which started Carmel valley, out to the glistening For more information about Israel, visit life as a butchers - offers gourmet meat Mediterranean coastline beyond. Looking www.thinkisrael.com and fish dishes, and wonderful sea views. out to the sea, gently nursing a glass of At the time of going to print, the Carmel Vintage, time falls away as you fall Mount Carmel region was affected by Immediately beneath Zichron are the under the spell this corner of the world wildfires. Check with Cox & Kings for glorious sands of Nahsholim and Dor, has been casting ever since the ancient latest updates. widely regarded as two of Israel’s best Greeks and Romans first came ashore.

Zichron, Israel www.coxandkings.co.uk 59