PROCESSORS FIND THE BLUE APRON FOUNDER’S PROCESS EXPO P.28 MEAT-VEGGIE MIDDLE GROUND P.94 NEW BREED OF BUSINESS P.118 HAS THE MEATS

08.19 meatingplace.com

New MILWAUKEE KLEMENT’S SAUSAGE CO. is steeped in old world European traditions, but no longer stuck in the past Getty Images SOAK ITUP!

he barbecue cat- er regional styles are fer for lunch or dinner operators surveyed Tegory continues finding their cadres of entrées with (39%, in 2014, although the From the Carolinas to marinate well with aficionados. vs. 55% who prefer company notes “the to Texas to Korea, consumers, more of Figures from Tech- grilled) and chicken decrease is in line with barbecue remains whom are open to nomic show that 38.3% (43%, tied with baked, the overarching menu the champ. less-traditional styles of operators menu food vs. 46% who prefer simplification trend.” that have emerged on that’s barbecued, up grilled) and tied for Beef is most often by Ed Finkel, the scene recently, 3.9% in the past five first with grilled found at traditional contributing editor blending regional and years. Chicken is the at 42%, according to casual dining (787 even international most commonly found Technomic’s Ignite items), followed by methods and tastes. protein featuring a menu data. quick service (513) and Texas-style barbecued prepara- Technomic’s data fast casual (267). seems to be, well, tion, followed by beef show the number of Datassential’s Texas-sized in terms and then pork. “Barbe- beef barbecue menu research shows that of overall impact, cued” is the second on items has fallen to a barbecue is found in although pork and the list of preparation total of 1,822, from most types of restau- poultry as well as oth- styles that diners pre- 1,914 across 1,007 rants except for fine

156 meatingplace.com August 2019 DURING THE SUMMER dining, and although recently associated “The items that sold SEASON, growth is slowing, it’s with and highest were the GROCERY BASKETS still found on 59% of grilling, according and the loins; you’re THAT CONTAIN menus. The fastest to Datassential’s looking at ribeye, growing regional figures. , strip steak, tenderloin PORK CHOPS OR identities for bar- a newer item on the and also T-bone. A lot RIBS ARE WORTH becue offerings are radar of barbecue of your thin meats — THREE TIMES AS “Kansas City,” “Car- chefs, has risen 88.1% your skirt, your flank MUCH, ON AVERAGE. olina” — and “Korea.” on menus in the past — those are pretty — Nielsen Grilling Analysis, Bottom line, more four years, although hot, as well.” provided by NPB than three-quarters it registers on just Hixon also has of consumers (78%) 1.4% of menus. On the noticed restaurants say they “love” or more traditional side, getting more into “like” barbecue. pork shoulder is up less-stereotypical Figures from Da- 82.9% in the past four barbecued meats tassential show that years and it’s on 1.7% such as veal and lamb, chicken remains the of menus overall; and which he expects will BEER 'N most common protein brisket has risen by translate into retail within barbecue-fla- 48.8% in the past four dollar sales as home BBQ vored menu items at years and has 7.9% cooks experiment BBQ ITEMS 67.4%, although that’s penetration. with what they en- WERE FEATURED Coleman Natural has down 1.6% in the past The consumption joyed at foodservice. rolled out a new line of four years. Pork is of beef during the He’s also seen more MOST OFTEN ON five pork-based barbe- found within 37.6% 15-week summer interest in , in MENUS IN THE cue and grilling items of menu items, up grilling and smoking part because they in- designed to appeal to MIDWEST (65.2%) beer-and-barbecue 4.3% in the fast four season rose 6.2% in tegrate vegetables to AND LEAST OFTEN lovers, called the Bud- years. Bacon sits at pounds and 8% in create a healthier mix. weiser BBQ Collection. 34.1%, up 9.9% over dollars from 2017- In terms of sauces IN THE WEST Made with slow-roast- four years, followed 2018, according to and rubs, Hixon cites (56.9%). — Datassential ed, all-natural Coleman by wings, 29.2%, up IRI Freshlook figures dark chilis, cumin, pork, the line includes 4.3%; and beef, 26.2%, provided by Steve oregano, , craft full- and half-rack St. down 4.3%. Hixon, strategic & beers, coffee rubs, and Louis Pork The list of fast- business services di- lime with cayenne or BEEF CUTS and in Bud- est-growing barbe- rector at Midan Mar- chili peppers. “That’s THAT ENJOY THE weiser Brewmaster’s cue-related menu keting. “So far, the translating nicely Premium BBQ Sauce; items contains a trends are consistent for a Korean or Latin LARGEST SHARE and Beer Bratwurst and mix of those tradi- for this year versus American flair,” he OF THEIR YEARLY Jalapeno Cheddar Beer Bratwurst infused with tionally and more last,” Hixon says. says of the latter. SALES DURING THE Budweiser Lager Beer. SUMMER MONTHS ARE KEBABS BARBECUED PORK was the most popular pork-related item (59%), BOTTOM for consumers, with 83% saying they “love” or “like” it, SIRLOIN (48%) followed by pork chops (77%), and pork at breakfast AND SIRLOIN or on pizza (each 76%). – Nielsen data provided by the National Pork Board STEAK (43%). — IRI/Freshlook data provided by National Cattlemen’s Beef Assn. meatingplace.com August 2019 157 FOOD focus BEYOND BRISKET harlie McKenna is from South Carolina, he’s cooked at fine TOP Cdining restaurants in three cities, and now he’s the owner and pitmaster at Lillie’s Q in Chicago. Recently McKenna has em- CUTS braced Texas-style, with a walk-up counter and nightly offerings of brisket, which used to be Tuesday-only. This, “even though I’m at retail from the Carolinas,” he says. “I’d never cooked a brisket until I was 20-something years old.” McKenna’s favorite cut remains the whole pig, due to the chal-

Getty Images lenges of evenly all the cuts. And he appreciates the mix of barbecue styles found in Chicago. “We have these barbecue nuts, who are like, ‘It can only be this way,’ ” he says, adding,“If risket has probably Top-selling beef cuts says Jason Menke, director you like Texas-style brisket with salt and pepper and that’s it, Bgained most quickly in during the 15-week grilling of communications. great. If you want to take and mix it with the popularity with backyard season in 2018 were ribeye, Pork belly has started to smoky methods of the South, awesome.” smokers and grillers, but strip and T-bone steaks. find its way into the basket, McKenna has touched his Carolina roots with the latest in his other cuts do well with Still, deckle-off brisket is in with a YOY sales increase of line of sauces, sold at more than 7,000 retailers nationwide, while amateur pitmasters, too. demand, according to IRI/ 31% to $4.6 million for the also appeasing consumers’ health desires with a Zero Caro- Brisket dollar sales have Freshlook. “With all these year ended in April. “People lina Sauce. But his latest rub offering at retail? Brisket Pepper. risen 22% from 2014 to new grills with a smoker are really drawn to that cut, Brisket is also central for James Cruse, pitmaster at Central 2018, according to IRI/ section, you’re going to see using it for pork belly burnt City BBQ in New Orleans, although like McKenna he offers the Freshlook data provided by brisket sales increase even ends,” Menke says. gamut of pulled pork, ribs and poultry. “Brisket is king,” he says. the National Cattlemen’s more,” predicts Dave Zino, Don’t discount poultry. “When a restaurant figures out brisket, they pound their chests Beef Assn. They were up executive chef at NCBA. National Turkey Federation about it.” Cruse is also excited about experimenting with non-tra- another 4% year-over-year On the pork side, at has developed the Turkey ditional cuts like thick-cut bacon and pork tenderloin, as well as in January through April of retail, shoulders were up Smoke barbecue compe- ethnic flavors ranging from Mexican to Vietnamese. “If I get in this year. Rack ribs were 19.1% to $418.1 million in tition featured at national something that’s unique, I create a special around it,” he says. up only 1.2% from 2014 sales for the year ended events. “Turkey’s ability New and different items are also on the menu at the to 2018, although up 3% in April, says Nielsen data to soak up flavors and the 500-plus-location Dickey’s Barbecue Restaurants, which has year-over-year from January provided by the National diversity of cuts makes recently rolled out pork with a sweet sauce, smoked through April, with the peak Pork Board. Rib sales were it the perfect addition to chicken wings, and a spicy pulled pork . Dickey’s also of summer grilling season up just 0.5% but held any barbecue lineup,” says has a new online store that sells hardwood pellets, spices and yet to come, says Alison steady at $1.65 billion. Beth Breeding, vice presi- rubs, and . “Burnt ends are definitely trending Krebs, director of market “Both are incredibly pop- dent of communications & with barbecue followers, but offering pork instead of brisket is intelligence at NCBA. ular cuts for barbecuing,” marketing at NTF. proving unique and popular,” says Laura Dickey, company CEO.

THE ANSWER: true That the responses were almost half-and-half makes sense, TRUE OR FALSE however. According to the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council, Frankfurt is widely credited as the home of the hot dog, but many assert that the popular sausage was created in the late 1600s by Johann Georghehner, a butcher living in of53.3% 337 respondents said Coburg, Germany. By this account, Georghehner later traveled the answer is true to Frankfurt to promote his new product. Courtesy of Dickey’s Barbecue Pit

158 meatingplace.com August 2019 Barbecued pork FOOD belly burnt ends focus THE BBQ hose who write about the world of barbecue say Tthat while traditional fare still thrives, experimen- tation can be seen everywhere. BEAT Ardie Davis, the author of 13 books on the subject and a columnist for National Barbecue News, sees more expensive beef like Wagyu and restaurants touting “craft barbecue.” “I don’t know that that’s been completely defined yet — but it’s going to cost “We’re seeing a lot of fusion,” Goldwyn says. “A super-sizing — I guess it would be super-upscaling.” more money,” he says. “In the middle you have guys restaurant in Chicago might serve on the same menu Barbecue joints known for traditional favorites who, instead of doing the expensive cuts, still get the Kansas City, Memphis, Carolina — and the public is have become open to influences like Asian, Tex-Mex traditional brisket, they just specify at the packing- starting to understand the differences.” or Cajun, says Daniel Vaughn, barbecue editor at house exactly how they want it.” Steven Raichlen, host of the new TV show “Project Texas Monthly and co-author of the recently released Barbecue is getting edgier, with dishes like Nash- Fire” (which launched July 4) and author of the “Whole Hog Barbecue.” Vaughn sees similarities be- ville hot fried chicken and Korean hot wings taking “Brisket Chronicles,” says the traditional Texas meat tween Texas and North Carolina styles. “That might off, says Meathead Goldwyn, author of “Meathead: has become globalized and more upscale. “You now seem crazy given the difference in proteins,” he says. The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling” and a find really good world-class brisket as far as Chicago, “But barbecue fans in both states give a lot of value blogger at AmazingRibs.com. He’s also seeing pork Boston, Paris, Berlin,” he says. “Americans are eating to all-wood cooking. I don’t think that’s the case in belly used for everything from banh mi to burnt ends. less beef, but we’re eating better beef. … It’s not Kansas City or Memphis or anywhere else.” WEIGHT CONTROLLED CUTTING IS OUR SPECIALITY FALCON EVOLUTION A high-speed portion cutting machine • Accurate weight-controlled portion cutting • Sturdy knife technology with a long life span • Operator-friendly and intuitive software interface • Robust and hygienic design for easy, thorough cleaning Learn more: treifusa.com/falcon-evolution/

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