Find it Here! The Valley and Southern of

by Bob Barnes1 and Bob Steele2

1P.O. Box 953 Weldon CA 93283 [email protected]

2P.O. Box 592 Inyokern CA 93527 [email protected]

BB is Outreach Director for Audubon-California’s Kern River Preserve. For twenty-five years he has spearheaded efforts to protect the region’s natural environment and led hun- dreds of and southern Sierra Nevada bird- ing field trips.

BS is an engineer with the U.S. Department of Defense. A Kern County resident for nearly twenty years, he is an avid bird photographer, birder, and volunteer with local bird conservation organizations.

156 Birding • April 2003 Just say “Yes”. Titmouse, and Tricolored Blackbird: Hermit Warblers singing within a mag- Six thousand Western and Clark’s Central California? nificent giant sequoia grove? Wrentits Grebes tallied on a Christmas Bird “Yes.” and Black-chinned Sparrows foraging Count: San Diego, California? Twelve Two hundred nesting species, in thick chaparral? A thousand hundred tanagers migrating north including: The southwestern range Tricolored Blackbird pairs and two from a riparian woodland corner on an limit for Blue Grouse and Pileated hundred Lawrence’s Goldfinch pairs early May morning: High Island, Woodpecker? The northwestern nest- nesting in a 9,000-acre river valley of Texas? Two thousand hummingbirds ing limit for Brown-crested Flycatcher lush riparian forest with a string of swarming a yard full of feeders in and a disjunct population of Bendire’s small, freshwater cattail and tule early August: Ramsey Canyon, Thrasher? The interface of Ladder- marshes in the mix? Arizona? Five thousand diurnal rap- backed and Nuttall’s Woodpecker “Yes.” tors passing over a single point on a ranges? All of the preceding questions have late September day: Cape May, New “Yes.” been answered “Yes” by birders Jersey? Five hundred Pinyon Jays noisily exploring within 25 miles of a single “Yes.” making their way past a Plumbeous place. That place? California’s Kern Summer Tanager, Blue Grosbeak, Vireo pair feeding fledglings in a piny- River Valley and surrounding southern and Indigo Bunting: Georgia? Le on pine forest? Cactus Wrens and Sierra Nevada. Conte’s Thrasher, Black-throated Greater Roadrunners loudly projecting According to John Kemper (Birding Sparrow, and Scott’s Oriole: southern their distinct calls from a Joshua tree Northern California, Falcon Press), Nevada? Nuttall’s Woodpecker, Oak woodland? Townsend’s Solitaires and “Kern River Valley must be counted as

The Kern River Valley and southern Sierra Nevada provide an amazing diversity of habitats for birds and birders alike. Elevations in the watershed range from 700’–14,000’, and birders may find everything from Costa’s Hummingbirds to Hermit Warblers, from Brown-crested Flycatchers to Townsend’s Solitaires, from Le Conte’s Thrashers to Pileated Woodpeckers. Kern County, California; September 2002. BOB STEELE

www.americanbirding.org 157 Kern River Valley & Southern Sierra Nevada

one of the best birding sites in California because of its diversity. The South Fork of the Kern River supports the largest remaining stand of Great Valley cottonwood-willow riparian for- est in California, and it has been desig- nated a Globally Important Bird Area, because it is a major migration path for Turkey Vultures (28,000 per year), because of its breeding “Southwestern” Willow Flycatchers (a federally endan- gered subspecies), and because almost the entire world’s population of “Kern” Red-winged Blackbird is located in the valley.”

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A Setting to Remember The Kern River Valley lies at an eleva- tion of 2,600 feet, up the spectacularly BOB STEELE scenic and ruggedly deep Kern River This five-day-old Yellow-billed Cuckoo nestling at Kern River Preserve will likely fledge when it is only seven days old. Canyon 45 road miles northeast of Researchers at the preserve are making important advances in our understanding of the demographics and genetics of the Bakersfield. It is surrounded by imperiled occidentalis race of the Yellow-billed Cuckoo. Kern County, California; July 2002. 6000’–8000’+ tall mountains of the southern Sierra Nevada that lie within the . The valley’s east end is dominated by California’s largest contiguous Fremont cottonwood and red willow forest, which borders the for its lower 14 miles. This area was designated one of the first ten Globally Important Bird Areas (IBAs) in the by the American Bird Conservancy. A total of 327 bird species has been documented in the South Fork Valley, including a remarkable 134 nest- ing species, with 244 total and 89 nest- ing on the 1,127 acres of Audubon- California’s Kern River Preserve alone. Birding access to significant parts of the IBA is available on over 5,000 acres of protected land comprising the Kern River Preserve, Sequoia National Forest’s South Fork Wildlife Area, and the California Department of Fish and BOB STEELE Game’s Canebrake Ecological Reserve. The elusive Le Conte’s Thrasher is a Kern River Valley desert-nesting species. Visiting birders may wish to drop in on an The west end of the valley is dominated Inyokern back yard, forty-five minutes to the east, where this species nests, is present year round, and frequents seed feed- by 568,000-acre-foot Isabella Reservoir. ers. Inquire with the lead author to make an appointment. Kern County, California; March 2002. The Kern River watershed above the

158 Birding • April 2003 CANYON INYO Pacific

KERN Not shown on map – Scenic To Lone Pine, Bishop L. South America, Mt. Whitney

TKHE ERN Crest (approx. 20 mile to the north)

valley is amazingly diverse. The head- RVIVER ALLEY GIANT NATIONAL Trail Olancha WILDERNESS Natl. AND Little K S. Fork waters of the National Wild and Scenic SEQUOIA ern K SOUTHERN ern River

North Fork Kern River rise at Sequoia River ern NATL. FOREST SIERRA K River National Park’s north end at Lake South EVADA 190 N N Quaking Black W E MONUMENT Aspen Forks of Rock S. SIERRA America. The river flows south through CG the Kern Ranger WILDERNESS S To Porterville, Station Troy 0 16 TULARE CO. Kilometers one of the deepest canyons in the Highway 99 SEQUOIA Meadow INYO CO.

Hwy. CG Divide Bald Mtn. Miles Western 0 United States, passing below 14,494’ Botanical Area 10

Kennedy Redwood Meadow CG Johnson- Bald Mtn. Meadows dale (El. 9,382 ft) Mount Whitney and through the heart Trail of 100 Giants 22S05 Sherman Rd. Holey Meadow CG 99 Pass (El. 9,200 ft.) of the 303,287-acre Golden Trout NATIONAL SACATAR 23S16 Sierra TRAIL 99 K DOME Portuguese ern WILDER- Wilderness. The 327,769-acre Sequoia LAND NESS Pass CHIMNEY 395

Way To Fountain Springs, (El. 7,280 ft.) River WILDER- To Porterville Highway 65 NESS River PEAK S. Fork LongWILDER- National Monument, managed by ern K Valley NESS Chimney FOREST Rd. Creek CG INYO COUNTY Sequoia National Forest, flanks the river TULARE COUNTY 24S15 OWENS KERN COUNTY KERN COUNTY MTNS. Riverkern Fay Sunday Peak Canebrake Rd. PEAK Greenhorn Ranch Ecological on the west. (El. 8,295 ft) Summit Rd. WILDERNESS 155 (El. 6,102 ft) Kernville Reserve ChimneyPeak Owens To the north is the Kern Plateau, Old State Rd. 155 Kern Peak S. ForkRiver (El. 8,453 ft) Sawmill Rd. River 521 Preserve ern headwaters of the National Wild and K Walker China 65 Isabella Pass 395 Valley SEQUOIA (El. 5,250 ft.) Lake Lake 178 Kelso

Scenic South Fork Kern River. Kern S. Fork NATL. 178 Valley FOREST Lake S. Fork 178 14 Plateau habitats grade from west-slope Isabella Wildlife Ridgecrest Area KIAVAH GREENHORN Sierran habitats on the west to Great Rd. 120 WILDERNESS River MTNS. Bird Spring To Kern & Pixley 214 483 SEQUOIA 539 Basin pinyon pine forest on the east. Natl. Wildlife Refuges NATL. Pass (El. 5,300 ft.) Kern FOREST BRIGHT STAR Cerro Coso 218 Rd. Community Here is the interface of Cassin’s Vireo WILDERNESS College 99 Piute Mtn. Dove 178 Landers Spring and Plumbeous Vireo ranges. 501 Breckenridge Mtn. Natl. Meadow Butterbredt 475 Pacific (El. 7,548 ft) Spring To the east, southeast, and south, are Garlock Rd. Bakersfield Scenic

PIUTE 58 Crest three “sky island” ranges—Owens Peak 99 14 Trail Jawbone Red Rock- To Highway 58, Interstate 15, ’ Canyon Randsburg Rd. San Diego (the highest, at 8,475 ), the Scodie To Tehachapi, Rd. To California City, Mountains and the Piute Mountains. To Interstate 5, Los Angeles California City Interstate 5, Los Angeles Kern Joshua tree woodland with silver cholla mixed in dominates the lower slopes and desert flats. Extensive piny- on pine woodland dominates the mid- elevations, including the area around 5,250’ Walker Pass. Higher elevations support stands of Jeffrey pine and white fir. A few wet meadows are found in the Piutes. The Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada traverses all three sky islands. To the southwest is the massive “sky island” of Breckenridge Mountain, peaking at 7,544’. It supports the southern limit of habitats typically used by west-slope Sierran avifauna and is the bridge between the drier Piute Mountains to the southeast and the wetter Greenhorn Mountains to the north. To the immediate west is the spine of the Greenhorn Mountains. The Greenhorns support Pileated BOB STEELE Woodpeckers and Winter Wrens at the From April through June of each year, the Kern River Valley is “The Lawrence’s Goldfinch Capital of the World”. southwestern limits of their nesting Peak numbers occur between 20 May and 10 June, and in recent years flocks of 225–250 individuals have been ranges. The highest point is 8,295’ recorded daily during this window of time. Kern County, California; July 2002.

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An Artist’s Perspective, from John Schmitt enjoy the subtleties found by studying birds carefully for pro- longed periods of time. The Kern River Valley offers a juxta- “Iposition of habitats resulting in out-of-character birding experiences. In spring 2002 it was singing Black-throated Sparrows and Scott’s Orioles in chaparral. In fall I was drawn to careful study of juncos of all but one field-recognizable population. I even determined a hybrid Pink-sided x Gray-headed. In less than ten minutes up the hill from my house I can be in west-side Sierran forest habitat searching for Flammulated or Northern Saw-whet Owl nests to study in depth, while in twenty-five minutes in the other direction I can reach the South Fork riparian forest or find myself within the borders of the . The longer I live here, the more interesting the careful study of the birds becomes to me.”

Sunday Peak in Kern County just south range from 700’ to 14,000’. The of the Tulare County line. On the slopes topography is highly varied. of this peak are where eight sightings of • Variety of Soils: The soil type and age Blue Grouse were recorded, here at is highly varied, with the expected their southwestern range limit, on a granitic soils supplemented by basalt species-specific survey sponsored by the and limestone-based soils. California Department of Fish & Game • Precipitation: Most precipitation in the spring of 2002. arrives with winter storms originating The Kern River watershed above the in the Gulf of Alaska or the Pacific floor includes all or Northwest. As storms sweep across part of one national park, one national California toward the Kern River monument, two national forests, two Valley, they reach the Greenhorns national wild and scenic rivers, three first. Here the mountain barrier often state-designated wildlife areas, and ten stops storms in their tracks. The federally-designated wilderness areas. “Sierran rain shadow effect” results in Protected land abounds. the Greenhorn Mountains receiving twice as much precipitation as the Abundant Diversity Close at Hand Kern Plateau less than ten miles to An astounding 197 breeding bird the east. On numerous days in winter, species have been recorded within an the Greenhorns are shrouded in 18-mile radius of a single point in the clouds and the San Joaquin Valley is Kern River Valley (including non-breed- deep in fog, while the Kern River ing species, 340 in all). This total is one Valley and the rest of the surrounding of the highest numbers (if not the high- mountains are bathed in brilliant sun-

BOB STEELE est number) of breeding bird species in shine. an area its size in the United States and • Low Passes: 5,250’ Walker Pass, Hummingbird viewing and study at the Kern River Canada. What makes this relatively 5,300’ Bird Spring Pass and the Preserve headquarters can be mesmerizing. Based on ’ sugar water solution consumption, up to 2,500 hum- small area home to such a diversity of 5,200 pass near Dove Spring are low mingbirds per day are estimated to come to the two avian life? enough to allow plants and animals dozen feeders in the yard, during the peak of migration • Elevation and Topography Range: typical of the desert to the east to in August. Kern County, California; August 2002. Elevations in the entire watershed reach the Central Valley slope of the

160 Birding • April 2003 mountains to the west. This migra- Christmas Bird Count results, birding tion does not occur through higher festival information, field trip schedules passes to the north. and reports, special events and work- • Diverse Habitats: The four factors shops, universal (disabled) access bird- above, along with human overlays, ing, monitoring and research, nearby result in a variety of habitats, such as birding areas, and a complete Birders chaparral, cliffs and rocky hillsides, Guide to the Kern River Valley and cottonwood and willow riparian Southern Sierra Nevada with detailed forests, desert washes, dry and wet annotations for numerous species. meadows, fir forest, freshwater marsh Personalized trip planning including and pond, giant sequoia groves, grass- the most current information on finding lands and irrigated pasture, Joshua target species is available via email at tree woodland, mixed conifer forest, . oak woodland, pinyon pine wood- The Kern River Valley has four-sea- land, reservoir, residential and park- sons temperatures, ranging from a lands, and rivers and streams. Birds January average low of 33° F to an and other animals that occupy these August average high of 96° F. Yet the habitats are representative of the Kern River Valley is a very sunny loca- Sierra Nevada, Great Basin, Mojave tion. Most days have blue skies with Desert, Central Valley, and Southern bright sunshine. Most mornings are California eco-regions of the state. calm, but afternoons are often windy. Thus, within fifteen miles of each From late spring until early fall, the other have been found nesting Osprey area may go months without rain. and Northern Goshawk, Barn Owl and BOB STEELE Flammulated Owl, Costa’s Resident Bird Species Hummingbird and Calliope The Kern River Valley and southern Visitors to the Kern River Valley and southern Sierra Nevada will be fascinated by the interface of so many species pairs. Hummingbird, Ladder-backed Sierra Nevada support over 125 resident Here, one may find Indigo and Lazuli Buntings breeding Woodpecker and White-headed nesting bird species, including many side-by-side, Cassin’s and Plumbeous Vireos in the same Woodpecker, and sought by visiting birders: Clark’s upland forests, and Nuttall’s (shown here) and Ladder- American Dipper, Grasshopper Sparrow Grebe, Prairie Falcon, California Quail, backed Woodpeckers in the same lowlands. Kern County, and “Thick-billed” Fox Sparrow, Great- Mountain Quail, Anna’s Hummingbird, California; March 2002. tailed Grackle, and Evening Grosbeak.

Visiting Through the Year A Big Day Birder’s Perspective, from John Sterling Although a day or two may be ade- quate for finding a few targeted species, n Saturday, 4 May 2002, the team of Todd Easterla, Steve Rovell, a four-to-seven-day stay is recommend- Scott Terrill, and I set a national inland county Big Day record in ed in order to explore all the habitats “OKern County. We started with owling in the Greenhorns and Kern and to observe a high percentage of River Valley. By four in the morning, eight species of owls had been recorded. species. Before each trip, up-to-date Our Big Day team birded east through the Kern River Valley to the Indian Wells information should be gathered for trip Valley and back. By the time we left the preserve headquarters at 1:30 PM, we planning from website pages or via had found 167 species. The team had not yet birded Isabella Reservoir or the email, telephone, or letter. The Kern Greenhorn Mountains! After the Greenhorns, the Big Day’s final hours were River Valley has a tourism-based econo- spent birding down the and out to the Kern NWR northwest my, and support services abound. The of Bakersfield. Our Kern County Big Day ended at a record 202 species. The all- website leads to time County Big Day record is from Monterey County, California (208 species, comprehensive websites geared toward set by the same team). Besides Monterey County (three times), only Cape May birders, including checklists, seasonal County, New Jersey (202 species), and San Diego County, California (200 sightings reports, arrival dates, birding species), have equaled or surpassed 200 species. All of these except Kern are routes for all seasons of the year to all coastal counties.” available habitats, local leaders,

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and Lark Sparrow. They have hosted up to six thousand wintering Western and Clark’s Grebes, 1,500 Common Mergansers, and 20 Bald Eagles. These CBCs have tallied impressive numbers of Black-throated and Sage Sparrows and up to one thousand Tricolored Blackbirds. Recommended winter birding areas include Kern River Preserve Headquarters, Canebrake Ecological Reserve, lower Chimney Peak Road, Fay Ranch Road, Kelso Valley Road, all around Isabella Reservoir and its camp- grounds, and the Greenhorn Mountains via snow-cleared State Highway 155.

February: Early Spring Arrivals By the end of February, resident and wintering species have been supple- BOB STEELE mented by the first “spring” migrants. The first Turkey Vultures, Cinnamon Low passes have allowed extensive Joshua tree woodlands to become established on the west slope of the Sierra. Although Teal, and Rufous Hummingbirds arrive, not as lush as the riparian forest associated with the Kern River, these Joshua tree woodlands are home to a diverse suite of species, including Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Ash-throated Flycatcher, Cactus Wren, and Scott’s Oriole. Kern County, and so do several species of swallow. California; May 2002. Some years the first Scott’s Oriole and Lawrence’s Goldfinch will have arrived Acorn Woodpecker, Red-breasted as well. Sapsucker, Williamson’s Sapsucker, Number of Nesting Species Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Nuttall’s Kern Valley “Crane Days” Woodpecker, White-headed The Kern River Valley has only one for Selected Groups within Woodpecker, Say’s Phoebe, Pinyon Jay, Sandhill Crane record. The remedy? 25 miles of the Oak Titmouse, Canyon Wren, American Start an event for local residents to visit Kern River Valley. Dipper, Wrentit, California Thrasher, Le nearby Pixley National Wildlife Refuge Conte’s Thrasher, Phainopepla, northwest of Bakersfield the last California Towhee, Rufous-crowned Saturday of February and the first one Taxon Number of Species Sparrow, Tricolored Blackbird, and in March. In 2002, dozens of people “Kern” Red-winged Blackbird among were treated to 4,000 Sandhill Cranes, Diurnal Raptors 13 them. 8,000 White-faced Ibises, and thou- Owls 9 sands more ducks, shorebirds, and January: Winter’s Peak Tricolored Blackbirds. The nearby Kern Woodpeckers 10 Results of the two local Christmas National Wildlife Refuge doesn’t have Bird Counts (CBCs)—Kern River Valley reliable cranes, but it added to part of Flycatchers 14 and South Fork Valley—give a compre- the day’s festivities, as it has excellent hensive overview of winter avifauna. birding. The day ended at Woolgrowers, Wrens 7 Some 130 to 150 species are expected Bakersfield’s most noted Basque restau- Warblers 12 over the two days of these side-by-side rant. In addition to being wonderful CBCs. The two CBCs have, one or the outings, Crane Days serve as a powerful Sparrows 15 other, led the nation one or more times conservation tool. They help to show in numbers of Mountain Quail, White- Kern locals the connections and interre- Blackbirds and Orioles 10 throated Swift, Williamson’s Sapsucker, lationships between natural communi- White-headed Woodpecker, Pinyon Jay, ties at home and away from home.

162 Birding • April 2003 March: Winter Lingers, Spring Picks Up Temperatures rise through March. By month’s end, Fremont cottonwoods and red willows are well along to being fully leafed-out. Wintering species are still present. Breeding species that typically arrive at this time include Costa’s Hummingbird, Western Kingbird, Bullock’s Oriole, and Lawrence’s Goldfinch. Recommended spring birding areas include Kern River Preserve Headquarters, Kern River Preserve’s Migrant Corner Trail, Fay Ranch Road, Canebrake Ecological Reserve, Chimney Peak Road, Kelso Valley Road, Isabella Reservoir, the Greenhorn Mountains, and the other mountain BOB STEELE areas as roads become accessible. The Kern River Valley provides the setting for one of the most impressive passages of Turkey Vultures in the United States. The peak is reached between 20 September and 10 October, when 1,000–3,000 migrating individuals may be expected on a April and May: Spring Migration day with favorable weather conditions. More than 27,000 individuals are tallied in an average fall. Kern County, California; The Kern River Valley is among the October 2002.

South Fork (Kern River) Valley Nesting-Pair Survey-Estimates for Common Species Species Number of Pairs Nuttall’s Woodpecker 100–150 pairs Yellow Warbler 150–200 pairs Common Yellowthroat 300–400 pairs Song Sparrow 1,000–1,500 pairs Blue Grosbeak 150–200 pairs Lazuli Bunting 200–250 pairs Bullock’s Oriole 100–150 pairs

Selected Nesting-Pair Estimates for South Fork (Kern River) Valley “Specialty” Species. Species Number of Pairs Yellow-billed Cuckoo 10–20 pairs “Southwestern” Willow Flycatcher 10–20 pairs Brown-crested Flycatcher 10–20 pairs Summer Tanager 50–70 pairs “Kern” Red-winged Blackbird 400–500 pairs Tricolored Blackbird 900–1,000 pairs Lawrence’s Goldfinch 175–225 pairs

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West’s best places to witness spring and from an area of forty acres on a sin- Spring Arrivals migration, and the Kern River gle mid-May morning. The peak com- Birds usually observed in the Kern Preserve’s Migrant Corner Trail is the bination of numbers and species takes River Valley and Southern Sierra recommended start for each day’s bird- place from 25 April through 20 May. Nevada by mid-April include nesting ing. Gray Flycatcher, Cassin’s Vireo, Black- Migrant Corner Trail is on the The Kern River Valley Bioregions (Birding) throated Gray, Hermit, and north edge of the preserve’s riparian Festival MacGillivray’s Warblers, and Hooded forest. Its start is 1.2 miles north of One of the best ways to get acquaint- Oriole. By the end of April, first appear- Highway 178, less than 100 feet ed with the area’s spring migration phe- ances have been made by nesting beyond the northeast side of the Sierra nomenon and Migrant Corner is to species, including Vaux’s Swift, Calliope Way bridge. Birds migrate from the attend the Kern River Valley BioFest. It Hummingbird, Summer Tanager, Mojave Desert to the southeast and is held each year on the last weekend Green-tailed Towhee, and Black- make their way northwest over or in April. The BioFest celebrates spring chinned Sparrow. By the end of May, through the forest to its north edge, migration with world-class birding. virtually the full complement of which is paralleled by the trail. You can This year’s festival (the ninth annual) migrant and nesting species has arrived, find a hillside to observe birds migrat- will be held 25–30 April 2003. It is the with highlight such as nesting ing past, about 300 yards along the second-oldest California birding festi- Flammulated Owl, Black Swift, Brown- trail. As with most migration hot spots, val. The BioFest is held in the heart of crested Flycatcher, and Plumbeous numbers of individuals on a day-to-day spring mirgration, and it has produced Vireo. basis can range from spectacular to 190-220 species in each of the last sev- somewhat disappointing. However, eral years. Led by expert birders who Access species diversity is good to excellent love the area, over 25 birding trips lim- During April and May, mountain virtually every day. As many as one ited to 12–15 participants each are areas besides the Greenhorns become hundred species have been recorded in offered. accessible as the winter’s snowpack melts. The Piute Mountain Road is usu- ally the first to open, leading to remark- ably reliable Pinyon Jays around Lander’s Meadow. Breckenridge Mountain, the Kern Plateau, the Western Divide Highway, and Sherman Pass follow. As each becomes accessible, montane birding becomes more varied and impressive.

Field Trips Audubon California chapters and other birding groups schedule low-cost, two-to-four-day field trips to the Kern River Valley from mid-April through mid-July. These trips are often open to anyone who wishes to register. June through mid-July is particularly popular for California-based field trip visits, as birders come to look for bird species rare in most of the rest of state, includ- ing nesting Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Summer BOB STEELE Tanager, and Indigo Bunting. Guided The south fork of the Kern River is the crown jewel of Kern County. Dominated by Fremont cottonwood and red willow, its four-day field trips in June and July fourteen-mile course is home to Yellow-billed Cuckoos and Blue Grosbeaks, to Summer Tanagers and Yellow-breasted Chats, record 125–175 species, depending on and more. Kern County, California; April 2002. group energy and hours spent birding.

164 Birding • April 2003 For maps, target birds, and detailed itin- eraries for four-day trips, consult A Sound Recordist’s Perspective, from Geoff Keller or email . hen it came time to gather recordings for Cornell’s Bird Songs of California project for which I served as chief sound recordist, June and July: Nesting Season “W I scheduled a morning for recording Blue Grosbeak at Kern Bonanza River Preserve. On my visit I was completely surprised to learn of one specialty These three months are the height of bird after another that could either be found on the Preserve or in the surround- the nesting season for the region’s near- ing area: Summer Tanager, Cassin’s Kingbird, and Hooded Oriole, all of which I ly 200 species, a nationally remarkable knew would be tough to locate and record in the state. Then I learned of Yellow- number. billed Cuckoo, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Plumbeous Vireo, Indigo Bunting, Scott’s As further demonstration of the rich- Oriole, and the southwestern race of Willow Flycatcher. I was ecstatic. I had pre- ness of this area during nesting season, viously regarded all of these as how-lucky-can-you-get? species. My planned one- consider that when the Western Field day visit to the Kern River Preserve to record Blue Grosbeak evolved into the Ornithologists (WFO) held their major hub for gathering the tough, specialty birds for the Thirtieth Anniversary Celebration in guide. Not only did we pick up all of the above-mentioned specialty birds, but Kernville 5–9 July 2000, 187 species dozens of other species were added as well. The key was not just having the were reported within a 25 mile radius. species present. The conditions had to be quiet enough to get uninterrupted, high- All but a handful were nesting species. quality recordings. Thus, it appeared, I had found my California recording mecca The birding here is world class. The in the Kern River Valley.” numbers of pairs of nesting birds are wonderfully overwhelming. Yellow- billed Cuckoos arrive as late as the end of June—the same time the first south- bound fall migrants appear, including a ing areas include Kern River Preserve tific papers have been published as a few Rufous and Allen’s Hummingbirds. Headquarters, Fay Ranch Road, result. Other research projects conduct- The strategy is to bird low in the morn- Canebrake Ecological Reserve, Kern ed in the South Fork Valley over the ings and high in the afternoons. An Plateau (Chimney Creek Campground, years include studies of Turkey Vulture, early start (5:30 a.m.) at Kern River Troy Meadow Campground, Black Rock hummingbirds, Common Yellowthroat, Preserve Headquarters is best. Ranger Station, Bald Mountain Summer Tanager, and Song Sparrow, as Except in the heaviest of snowpack Lookout), Piute Mountains (Kelso well as on western pond turtle and vari- years, all mountain areas are open. Valley Road, Piute Mountain Road, ous small mammal species. Local They are best visited on afternoons, Lander’s Meadow), Greenhorns research stations that have been after the lowlands become uncomfort- (Sawmill Road, Old State Road, involved include the Kern River ably warm. The Kern Plateau requires a Greenhorn Summit, Portuguese Pass Research Center (1990–1997) and full-day visit starting at dawn. The Piute and Campground), and Giant Sequoia Southern Sierra Research Station (since Mountains, Greenhorn Mountains, and National Monument (Holy Meadow 1998). Western Divide Highway all require Campground, Trail of 100 Giants, half-day or full-day visits. The rewards Redwood Meadow, and Quaking Aspen Hummingbird Viewing Capital of California are great, with nesting species such as Meadow and Campground). The Kern River Valley bills itself as Blue Grouse, Mountain Quail, Black the “Hummingbird Viewing Capital of Swift, Calliope Hummingbird, Monitoring and Research California”. Several motels, restaurants, Williamson’s Sapsucker, Cassin’s Vireo, A visit during June through August businesses, and private residences have Plumbeous Vireo, Pinyon Jay, Hermit will allow birders to learn firsthand set up feeding stations for birders. The Warbler, and Green-tailed Towhee. By about more than a decade’s worth of Kern River Preserve and many others July’s end, Lawrence’s Goldfinches have nesting and population ecology research feed 250–500 ounces of sugar water often become exceedingly scarce on the state-listed “Western” Yellow- solution per day during the peak of (unless it is a wet year), and several billed Cuckoo (occidentalis subspecies) numbers, which are recorded from mid- species have begun migrating south and Federally Endangered July through August. In addition to four through the Kern River Valley. “Southwestern” Willow Flycatcher local nesting species (Black-chinned, Recommended nesting-season bird- (extimus subspecies). Numerous scien- Anna’s, Costa’s, and Calliope), the valley

www.americanbirding.org 165 intercepts one of two major south- tion. Since then, one of the largest bound fall migrations of Rufous Turkey Vulture migrations in the U.S. Hummingbirds. Ten to twenty Rufous has been documented, with an average are banded for each Allen’s. Black Rock of 27,000+ individuals per fall count. A Ranger Station is the best place for Kern Vulture Festival is held every year, Calliope Hummingbird from June centered on the last Saturday of through mid-July. September. This year’s festival, our August: Hummingbirds Everywhere, ninth, will be held 26–29 September and More! 2003. The Turkey Vulture Fest is much Hummingbird numbers are amazing. more than vultures. Fall western passer- They reach peak numbers around 20 ine migration is at its height, and so are August. Even though fall migration has occurrences of eastern vagrants. begun for many individual birds and singing has diminished greatly, thor- October Through December: ough birding still leads to an impres- Migration Passes, Winter Returns Neo sive species list that is almost equal to Throughout October and November, what can be achieved in late April fall migration subsides, and wintering through mid-July. Yellow-billed water birds, Bald Eagles, and hawks Journey Cuckoos and Willow Flycatchers are from the north arrive. The occasional still present at the preserve headquar- loon, grebe, or scoter is brought in by a ters. All areas are free of snow, leading strong, early winter storm in November. to easy access to montane birding loca- As December progresses, birding oppor- tions. tunities approximate those found in January. The next birding year is about September: Transition to start. September witnesses southbound fall bw migrants, as well as the arrival of win- Recommended fall birding areas ter visitors from the north. include Kern River Preserve Hummingbird feeders at the preserve Headquarters, Fay Ranch Road, pu go from two dozen to one. Eastern Canebrake Ecological Reserve, Kelso vagrant species in nearby Mojave Valley Road, Piute Mountains, desert oases are most likely from mid- Greenhorns, and Giant Sequoia September through mid-October. Fall National Monument (through passerine migration is best in desert September). oases to the east of the Kern River Valley, including the grounds of Cerro The Final Word Coso College in Ridgecrest and Central Taken together, the Kern River Valley Park in California City. Turkey Vultures and Southern Sierra Nevada are one of and other raptors are on migration. America’s great birding regions. In a Many local birders rate the September stunningly scenic setting, this region and October fall migration period as provides world-class bird and birding their favorite birding time of the year. phenomena, including spring passerine migration, nesting diversity, a variety of Turkey Vultures Galore hummingbirds, and the Turkey Vulture Fall Turkey Vulture migration migration. It is hoped that each birder through the Kern River Valley had who visits this wonderful place will been known for decades. Guesstimates come away answering “Yes!” to the ranged from 5,000 to over 100,000 per question “Were visiting and experienc- migration. In 1994, Terri Gallion and ing the birds of the Kern River Valley Sean Rowe started the Kern Valley and Southern Sierra Nevada all you Vulture Watch to quantify the migra- hoped that they would be?”

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