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A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland
Edinburgh Research Explorer A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland Citation for published version: Wilcox, D, Payne, S, Pardoe, T & Mikhaila, N 2011, 'A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland', Costume, vol. 2011, no. 45, pp. 39-62. https://doi.org/10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 Digital Object Identifier (DOI): 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 Link: Link to publication record in Edinburgh Research Explorer Document Version: Peer reviewed version Published In: Costume Publisher Rights Statement: © Wilcox, D., Payne, S., Pardoe, T., & Mikhaila, N. (2011). A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland. Costume , 2011(45), 39-62 doi: 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 General rights Copyright for the publications made accessible via the Edinburgh Research Explorer is retained by the author(s) and / or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing these publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. Take down policy The University of Edinburgh has made every reasonable effort to ensure that Edinburgh Research Explorer content complies with UK legislation. If you believe that the public display of this file breaches copyright please contact [email protected] providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. Download date: 02. Oct. 2021 © Wilcox, D., Payne, S., Pardoe, T., & Mikhaila, N. (2011). A Seventeenth-Century Doublet from Scotland. Costume , 2011(45), 39-62 doi: 10.1179/174963011X12978768537537 A SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY DOUBLET FROM SCOTLAND By SUSAN PAYNE, DAVID WILCOX, TUULA PARDOE AND NINYA MIKHAILA. In December 2004 a local family donated a cream silk slashed doublet to Perth Museum and Art Gallery.i Stylistically the doublet is given a date between 1620 and 1630 but the family story is that it was a gift to one of their ancestors about the time of the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
GOVPUB-CS1-4C9e09d16748d10e2bdd184198d2c071-1.Pdf
I 1 Proi Of RECORDS, [NISTRATION f 4&**i /$ Tio,r «c0iSrte^u REGISTER OF ALL OFFICERS AND AGENTS, CIVIL, MILITARY, AND NAVAL, IN SERVICETHE OF THE UNITED STATES, ON The Thirtieth September, 1851. WITH THE NAMES, FORCER AND CONDITION OP ALL SHIPS AND VESSELS BELONG-- ING TO THE UNITED STATES, AND WHEN AND WHERE BUILT ; TOGETHER WITH THE NAMES AND COMPENSATION OF ALL PRINTERS IN ANY WAX EMPLOYED BY CONGRESS, OB ANY DEPARTMENT OR OFFICER OF THE GOVERNMENT. PREPARED AT THE DEPARTMENT OF STATE, In pursuance of Resolutions of Congress of April 27,1816, and July 14,1832. WASHINGTON: GIDEON AND CO., PRINTERS. 1851. RESOLUTION requiring the Secretary of State to compile and print, once in every two years, a register of all officers and agents, civil, military, and naval, in the service ot tne United States. Resolved by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Con gress assembled, That, once in two years, a Register, containing correct lists of all the officers and agents, civil, military, and naval, in the service of the United States, made up to the last day of September of each year in which a new Congress is to assemble, be compiled and printed, under the direction of the Secretary for the Department of State. And, to ena ble him to form such Register, he, for his own Department, and the Heads of the other De partments, respectively, shall, in due time, cause such lists as aforesaid, of all officers and agents, in their respective Departments, including clerks, cadets, and midshipmen, to be made and lodged in the office of the Department of State. -
30 Rock: Complexity, Metareferentiality and the Contemporary Quality Sitcom
30 Rock: Complexity, Metareferentiality and the Contemporary Quality Sitcom Katrin Horn When the sitcom 30 Rock first aired in 2006 on NBC, the odds were against a renewal for a second season. Not only was it pitched against another new show with the same “behind the scenes”-idea, namely the drama series Studio 60 on the Sunset Strip. 30 Rock’s often absurd storylines, obscure references, quick- witted dialogues, and fast-paced punch lines furthermore did not make for easy consumption, and thus the show failed to attract a sizeable amount of viewers. While Studio 60 on the Sunset Strip did not become an instant success either, it still did comparatively well in the Nielson ratings and had the additional advantage of being a drama series produced by a household name, Aaron Sorkin1 of The West Wing (NBC, 1999-2006) fame, at a time when high-quality prime-time drama shows were dominating fan and critical debates about TV. Still, in a rather surprising programming decision NBC cancelled the drama series, renewed the comedy instead and later incorporated 30 Rock into its Thursday night line-up2 called “Comedy Night Done Right.”3 Here the show has been aired between other single-camera-comedy shows which, like 30 Rock, 1 | Aaron Sorkin has aEntwurf short cameo in “Plan B” (S5E18), in which he meets Liz Lemon as they both apply for the same writing job: Liz: Do I know you? Aaron: You know my work. Walk with me. I’m Aaron Sorkin. The West Wing, A Few Good Men, The Social Network. -
Congressional Record United States Th of America PROCEEDINGS and DEBATES of the 105 CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION
E PL UR UM IB N U U S Congressional Record United States th of America PROCEEDINGS AND DEBATES OF THE 105 CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION Vol. 144 WASHINGTON, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 1998 No. 11 House of Representatives The House met at 10 a.m. Mr. GIBBONS. Mr. Speaker, I object Herger Markey Redmond The Reverend Ronald F. Christian, Hill Martinez Regula to the vote on the ground that a Hinojosa Mascara Reyes Director, Lutheran Social Services of quorum is not present and make the Hobson Matsui Riley Fairfax, VA, offered the following pray- point of order that a quorum is not Hoekstra McCarthy (MO) Rivers er: present. Holden McCarthy (NY) Rodriguez Almighty God, Your glory is made Hooley McCollum Roemer The SPEAKER. Evidently a quorum Horn McCrery Rogan known in the heavens, and the fir- is not present. Hostettler McGovern Rogers mament declares Your handiwork. The Sergeant at Arms will notify ab- Houghton McHale Rohrabacher Hoyer McHugh Ros-Lehtinen With the signs of Your creative good- sent Members. ness all about us, we must acknowledge Hulshof McInnis Rothman The vote was taken by electronic de- Hutchinson McIntosh Roukema Your presence in our world, through vice, and there wereÐyeas 353, nays 43, Inglis McIntyre Roybal-Allard Your people, and within us all. answered ``present'' 1, not voting 33, as Istook McKeon Royce So, therefore, we pray for Your Jackson (IL) McKinney Ryun follows: mercy when our ways are stubborn or Jackson-Lee Meehan Sabo [Roll No. 14] (TX) Meek (FL) Salmon uncompromising and not at all akin to Jefferson Meeks (NY) Sanchez Your desires. -
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles
The Shape of Women: Corsets, Crinolines & Bustles – c. 1790-1900 1790-1809 – Neoclassicism In the late 18th century, the latest fashions were influenced by the Rococo and Neo-classical tastes of the French royal courts. Elaborate striped silk gowns gave way to plain white ones made from printed cotton, calico or muslin. The dresses were typically high-waisted (empire line) narrow tubular shifts, unboned and unfitted, but their minimalist style and tight silhouette would have made them extremely unforgiving! Underneath these dresses, the wearer would have worn a cotton shift, under-slip and half-stays (similar to a corset) stiffened with strips of whalebone to support the bust, but it would have been impossible for them to have worn the multiple layers of foundation garments that they had done previously. (Left) Fashion plate showing the neoclassical style of dresses popular in the late 18th century (Right) a similar style ball- gown in the museum’s collections, reputedly worn at the Duchess of Richmond’s ball (1815) There was public outcry about these “naked fashions,” but by modern standards, the quantity of underclothes worn was far from alarming. What was so shocking to the Regency sense of prudery was the novelty of a dress made of such transparent material as to allow a “liberal revelation of the human shape” compared to what had gone before, when the aim had been to conceal the figure. Women adopted split-leg drawers, which had previously been the preserve of men, and subsequently pantalettes (pantaloons), where the lower section of the leg was intended to be seen, which was deemed even more shocking! On a practical note, wearing a short sleeved thin muslin shift dress in the cold British climate would have been far from ideal, which gave way to a growing trend for wearing stoles, capes and pelisses to provide additional warmth. -
The Norman Conquest: the Style and Legacy of All in the Family
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Boston University Institutional Repository (OpenBU) Boston University OpenBU http://open.bu.edu Theses & Dissertations Boston University Theses & Dissertations 2016 The Norman conquest: the style and legacy of All in the Family https://hdl.handle.net/2144/17119 Boston University BOSTON UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF COMMUNICATION Thesis THE NORMAN CONQUEST: THE STYLE AND LEGACY OF ALL IN THE FAMILY by BAILEY FRANCES LIZOTTE B.A., Emerson College, 2013 Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Fine Arts 2016 © 2016 by BAILEY FRANCES LIZOTTE All rights reserved Approved by First Reader ___________________________________________________ Deborah L. Jaramillo, Ph.D. Assistant Professor of Film and Television Second Reader ___________________________________________________ Michael Loman Professor of Television DEDICATION This thesis is dedicated to Jean Lizotte, Nicholas Clark, and Alvin Delpino. iv ACKNOWLEDGMENTS First, I’m exceedingly thankful for the guidance and patience of my thesis advisor, Dr. Deborah Jaramillo, whose investment and dedication to this project allowed me to explore a topic close to my heart. I am also grateful for the guidance of my second reader, Michael Loman, whose professional experience and insight proved invaluable to my work. Additionally, I am indebted to all of the professors in the Film and Television Studies program who have facilitated my growth as a viewer and a scholar, especially Ray Carney, Charles Warren, Roy Grundmann, and John Bernstein. Thank you to David Kociemba, whose advice and encouragement has been greatly appreciated throughout this entire process. A special thank you to my fellow graduate students, especially Sarah Crane, Dani Franco, Jess Lajoie, Victoria Quamme, and Sophie Summergrad. -
Muzikmafia: Community, Identity, and Change from the Nashville Scene to the Popular Mainstream David B
Florida State University Libraries Electronic Theses, Treatises and Dissertations The Graduate School 2007 Muzikmafia: Community, Identity, and Change from the Nashville Scene to the Popular Mainstream David B. Pruett Follow this and additional works at the FSU Digital Library. For more information, please contact [email protected] THE FLORIDA STATE UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF MUSIC MUZIKMAFIA: COMMUNITY, IDENTITY, AND CHANGE FROM THE NASHVILLE SCENE TO THE POPULAR MAINSTREAM BY DAVID B. PRUETT A dissertation submitted to the College of Music in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Degree Awarded Fall Semester, 2007 © 2007 David B. Pruett All Rights Reserved The members of the Committee approve the dissertation of David B. Pruett defended on Thursday, 23 August 2007. ______________________________ Frank Gunderson Professor Directing Dissertation ______________________________ Barry Faulk Outside Committee Member ______________________________ Dale A. Olsen Committee Member The Office of Graduate Studies has verified and approved the above named committee members. ii “Love Everybody…” Kenny Alphin – at least once in most conversations that we have shared since June 2004 iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS There are many people whom I would like to thank for their assistance with and guidance through this project. First and foremost, I would like to express sincere thanks to my new friends and family within the MuzikMafia’s inner circle: Cory, John, Kenny, Jon, James, Rachel, Pino, Chance, Max, Dean, Troy, Shannon, Mandy, Fred, Shanna, Damien, Adam, Brian, Ethan, SWJ, Alaska Dan, Sean, Jerry, D.D., Gretchen, Jules W., Paul, Ashley, Marc, Greg, Bill, Charlie, Jon A., Jeff, Deanna, “Mama” Alphin, Shawna P., Butter, Isaac, Virginia D., and Vicky M. -
On Men. Masculine Dress Code from the Ancient Greeks to Cowboys
On Men. Masculine Dress Code from the Ancient Greeks to Cowboys. Proceedings of the ICOM Costume Committee in Berlin, Germany 2005 Edited by Regine Falkenberg, Adelheid Rasche and Christine Waidenschlager. ICOM Costume Committee and ICOM Germany. Berlin, Germany. 2006. Price : 8 Euros + 9 Euros postage anywhere. 10 books: less 10%, 50 books: less 20%. Contact: Fr. Yvonne Feldt, [email protected] Contents: Prefaces Ioanna Papantoniou: From Nothing to Trousers: Greek Men’s Lower Body Coverings. Vassilis Zidianakis: La Fustanelle dans le Film “Infusion” de Marcus Tomlinson: Tradition et Innovation. Peter McNeil: Courtier or Macaroni? An Eighteenth-Century Man’s Waistcoat at the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. Bernard Berthod: Le Renouveau de Costume de la Cour Papale Laïque aux Dix- Neuvième et Vingtième Siècles. Hanne Frøsig Dalgaard: Gown and Ruff: The Dress of the Clergymen if the Lutheran Danish Church. Aagot Noss: The Bridegroom’s Cross. Jean L. Druesedow: The Sartorial Art Journal: American Fashions for Men. Lucie Doležalová: Men’s Fashion in Czechoslovakia of the 1920s and 1930s in Archive Sources and Museum Collections in the Czech Republic. June Swann: Brekelenkam’s Shoemaker Paintings and Men’s Mid-Seventeenth- Century Shoes. Beata Biendrońska-Słota: Elegant Men and Polish National Costume. Elisabeth Hackspiel- Mikosch: Beauty in Uniform. The Creation of Ideal Masculinity during the Nineteenth Century. Irma Wallenborg: From Peacock to Camouflage: A Tour through the Army Museum’s Military Uniforms. Tom C. Bergroth: Dress Regulations and Reality: A Portrait and a Uniform of 1810. Isabel Alvarado: Ponchos and Mantas in the Textile Collection of the Museo Histórico Nacional. Janet Loverin: Western Dress at Nevada’s “Tin Cup Tea”. -
Introduction to Late Sixteenth Century Men's Clothing
INTRODUCTION TO Late Sixteenth Century Men’s Clothing 1570-1600 HUGO, JONKHEER VAN HARLO [email protected] First Printing c Clothiers’ Seminar 2018 INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 2 Today’s Goal • Introduce the many options in styles, cuts, and decorations of the clothes gentlemen wore in western Europe, c.1570-1600 • Share resources to learn more • Not: teach anybody to pattern or sew a damn thing. INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 3 In Other Words: You want garb options? We got your garb options right here. (Suck it, Anglo-Saxons.) INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 4 Your Lecturer History nerd. Research monkey. Not a tailor. Don’t give him fabric. Hugo has brought his late sixteenth century interests into the SCA and, for good or bad, decided to double down on his focus by fully embracing the quite- silly clothing of the era. INTRO TO LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEN’S CLOTHING 5 Agenda • Foundational Assumptions Disclaimer: This is a lot of content to • The Gentleman’s Wardrobe work through in fifty-five • Doublets & the Upper Body minutes. • Ruffs & Cuffs It’s likely we’ll either speed through some sections or not • Breeches get all the way to the end. • Legs & Feet • Headwear • Outerwear • Decoration & Construction • Resources FOUNDATIONAL ASSUMPTIONS FOUNDATIONAL ASSUMPTIONS 7 You will look ridiculous. Embrace that shit. It’s awesome. FOUNDATIONAL ASSUMPTIONS 8 You’ll learn to like the bizarre fashion. Really. I’ve gotten used to the era’s sartorial excesses and idiosyncrasies. Where before I would have gone, “WTF?,” now I appreciate. -
TO CLOTHE a FOOL : a Study of the Apparel Appropriate for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700
Virginia Commonwealth University VCU Scholars Compass Theses and Dissertations Graduate School 1979 TO CLOTHE A FOOL : A Study of the Apparel Appropriate for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700 Virginia Lee Futcher Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd Part of the Theatre and Performance Studies Commons © The Author Downloaded from https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd/4621 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at VCU Scholars Compass. It has been accepted for inclusion in Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of VCU Scholars Compass. For more information, please contact [email protected]. TO CLOTHE A FOOL A Study of the Apparel Appropriate for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700 by VIRGINIA LEE FUTCHER Submitted to the Faculty of the School of th e Arts of Virginia Commonwealth University in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirement for the Degree Master of Fine Arts Richmond, Virginia December, 1979 TO CLOTHE A FOOL A Study of the Apparel Appropriate :for the European Court Fool 1300 - 1700 by VIRGINIA LEE FUTCHER Approved: I A'- ------ =:- ::-"':'"" Advisor TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS iii PREFACE ix CHAPTE R ONE: An Overview of the Fool 's Clothing . I CHAPTER TWO: Fools From Art. • • . 8 CHAP TE R THREE: Fools From Costume Texts . 53 CONCLUSION . 80 APPENDIX •• 82 BIBLIOGRAPHY. 88 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure Page I. Ass's Eared Hood 1 2. One Point Hood . 1 3. Combination Eared/Pointed Hood 2 4. Ass 's Eared Hood Variation 2 5. Bird Head Hood . 2 6. -
Gifts Ryan Cyr, Age 10
Ryan Cyr, age 10 giftsin gratitude and recognition Childrens hospiTal los angeles honor roll of donors for the time period of January 1, 2008 through December 31, 2008 The patients, families, staff and Board of Trustees of Childrens Hospital Los Angeles are grateful to the many people who help us build for the future and provide clinical care, research and medical education through their financial support. We recognize esteemed individuals, organizations, corporations and foundations for their generosity during the 2008 calendar year. This Honor Roll lists donors who contributed at least $1,000 in cash gifts, pledges or pledge payments. To view the Red Wagon Society Honor Roll of Donors, which lists gifts of $150 to $999, please visit the electronic version of the Honor Roll at www.ChildrensHospitalLA.org/HonorRoll. Foregoing individual recognition, we also extend thanks to those who made generous contributions directly to one of our Associate and Affiliate, or allied groups. Children’s Miracle Network (CMN) gifts to CMN National will be recognized in a future issue of Imagine. In spite of our best efforts, errors and omissions may occur. Please inform us of any inaccuracies by contacting Marie Logan, director of Donor Relations, at 323-361-1733 or [email protected]. • imagine spring 09 | 1 $4,000,000 and above $100,000 to $499,999 Mrs. Clotil F. Greene Tally and Bill Mingst i Anonymous Friends (2) The Ahmanson Foundation Mr. Douglas W. Grey 104.3 MYfm The Associates Alex’s Lemonade Stand Mrs. Naomi G. Hale Norris Cancer Center The John W. Carson Foundation Foundation Ms.