Volume 33

Peak Hill near Brooklyn, Issue 2 Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park Autumn 2008 Crossing the Cox near Jenolan Creek, Blue Mountains National Park Photo: Bruce Mckinney

Contributions of interesting and spectacular bushwalking photos are sought — you don’t want the same photographers all the time, do you?

A small waterfall on Banks Creek near Berowra Waters, Photo: Roger Caffin Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW From the editor’s desk. . . Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 rom a scorching hot and dry summer straight into a cold wet winter - or ISSN 0313 2684 so it seems. We went on a late summer trip around the Jagungal FWilderness at the end of March - and one night got down to -7° C! The cairn at the summit of Mt Jagungal was sheathed in ice, although we only got to see it close up in the howling fog. Whatever happened to our balmy autumn Editor: Roger Caffin weather? Ah well, just have to dig out the fleece clothing. [email protected] Graphic Design & Assembly: Barry Hanlon In the news recently has been the demise of the New Zealand company Macpac. First the manufacturing in NZ proved uneconomic and it was moved Confederation Officers: to Asia. But the management types who took over the company didn't President: Wilf Hilder understand the outdoors community, and made a mess of it. Now the remains [email protected] of Macpac have been bought out by a different NZ company called Mouton Administration Officer: Noire (‘Black Sheep’), who also own the outdoors bits of that other NZ [email protected] company Fairydown. The new owners have commented that it is hard to fight for shelf space on Website: www.bushwalking.org.au the main street shops against the cheap Chinese imports - don't we know it! But rather than give up, they are going to open their own-brand shops. They Address all correspondence to: PO Box 2090, GPO, Sydney 2001 already have 6 in NZ, and looking to open in . Well, we await this new development with great interest.

The Confederation of Bushwalking Articles for Publication Clubs NSW Inc represents Clubs and members are encouraged to submit relevant articles, with a very approximately 66 Clubs with a total strong preference for those with good pictures. Both the author and the membership of about 8,700 author’s club will feature in the Byline - this is a good way to advertise YOUR bushwalkers. club. We will also accept articles from outside bodies where the articles seem relevant to members. Formed in 1932, the Confederation Articles may be edited for length and content to help fit into our page limit. provides a united voice on behalf of all Pictures should be sent at maximum available resolution: at least 300 dpi, bushwalkers on conservation, access and other issues. preferably in their original unedited form. JPG, PDF or TIFF formats are preferred. The text should be sent as a plain text file (*.txt), NOT as a Word People interested in joining a bush- file (*.doc). I repeat, please send the pictures separate from the text file; do walking club may write to the Confed- NOT send them embedded in a Word doc file. Pictures taken from a Word doc eration Administration for a list of file are simply not good enough. And, of course, the Editor is always interested Clubs, but an on-line list is available at in receiving bushwalking books and maps for review. All enquiries should be the Confederation website sent to [email protected]. www.bushwalking.org.au, broken up Please note that opinions expressed by authors may not represent the into areas. There’s lots of other good official opinions of the Confederation or any Club. The Editor’s opinions are stuff there too, including the bush- his own. walking FAQ. Roger Caffin

Index

Don’t you wish you were here? 2 Subscribe to The Bushwalker From the Editor’s Desk 3 Keep up with all the news and developments happening in the NSW bushwalking scene for Haughton and Hoddle Exploratory 4 only $10 per year. This is to cover posting and Growee Explorations 6 handling: the magazine itself is free. Send your name and address and cheque or Kiandra to Kosciuszko 7 money order to Confederation of Bushwalk- Abseiling Upper South Bowen Creek and Yileen Canyons 10 ing Clubs NSW Inc, PO Box 2090, GPO Sydney 2001. Make the cheque or money order pay- Navshield 2007 Daltons Defence 12 able to the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW Inc as well - please don't abbrevi- Dot Butler—The Barefoot Bushwalker 13 ate the name! Fraser Island 14 Please indicate which issue you want your sub- scription to start with. We don’t want to dupli- cate copies you already have.

Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 The Bushwalker | 3 Paul Ellis, Shoalhaven Bushwalkers

Photographs, Paul Ellis & Brett Davis

n Saturday 22nd September 2007 I 8.30 am, but it was already 8.15 at joined up with 7 other members of Newhaven Gap, the old starting point for Othe Shoalhaven Bushwalkers for 3 walks in the Budawangs. We continued days hiking in the Budawangs. Three of us headed along the Braidwood Road Checking the map near the top of Mt Haughton towards Sassafras on Saturday morning, arriving at the NPWS car park at 7.50 am. southwards, past the track to Folly Point, but was open to the sky above. Morning The other 5 hikers in our group had now marked with a very large rock cairn. tea! Comments were made about the size walked in on Friday afternoon and camped The Budawangs had received a lot of rain of my rucksack and that it seems to get overnight at Camp Rock. recently as there were a lot of wet spots smaller with every trip. Everyone was It was a relatively overcast morning as along the trail. This meant we would have convinced I’d forgotten to pack something we headed down the trail for the arduous no problems getting water on this trip. for the trip and they were keen to see what and boring 8 km hike to Newhaven Gap. As we crossed a small creek I could I unpacked that afternoon at Mt Haughton The forecast for the next 3 days was for smell smoke and knew we were close to Camping Caves. After the break we warm sunny conditions and even now as Camp Rock. At 9.00 am exactly we walked descended to a small creek with fast we battled the chilly winds on this exposed into the Camp Rock camping area to find flowing clear water and then ascended a heathland plateau we could see patches of the other 5 members of our group sitting steep ridge to a long flat open forested blue sky breaking through the dark clouds. around a small campfire. We soon moved saddle between Quiltys & Sturgiss, passing For the first time ever I was carrying my off, passing Red Johnny’s Cave (a possible a very picturesque camping area. We soon new 35 litre rucksack. As we planned to overnight camping spot) and entering a arrived at ‘The Halt’ - a collection of logs camp overnight in caves there was no need rainforest area known as The Vines with placed next to a brilliant lone Fern Tree at for tents and in my quest for the lightest its red dirt coloured track. By now the the trackhead for Hidden Valley. We now possible load, I had managed to fit clouds had cleared and we were walking descended the ridge to Styles Creek and everything I felt was required. under a clear blue sky. Around here we Styles Camping area. Soon the views The size of my rucksack was to cause were overtaken by a large group of cyclists across Styles Plains came into view. We much conversation during the weekend. It who had ridden in from Sassafras this could see across to Mt Haughton, Hoddles contained my palm-sized summer season morning. They were planning to ditch the Castle and Pagoda Rocks (the western side down sleeping bag, my Thermarest bikes at the Quiltys turnoff and hike to of Mt Sturgiss). sleeping mat, a new Mini Trangia, a small either the Mt Haughton or Mt Cole We had planned to lunch at Styles bottle of fuel, a 3 litre hydration bag, some camping caves for the night. When they Camp, but we were ahead of schedule and warm clothes for the evenings, my wet learned we had planned to use the caves stopped only to collect water before weather jacket, toiletries, torch, eating on Haughton, they gallantly offered to heading across the plains. More comments irons, pack cover and first aid kit. On the continue to Mt Cole. We were to were made about the size of my pack belt I had attached my camera bag and continually bump into these hikers until when I was seen filling up my hydration GPS. Despite the load, in the 10 - 14 kg lunchtime today. bag and a 4 litre wine bladder and putting range, it was very comfortable. We turned left at Quiltys and followed them into my pack. I simply told them I We passed by ‘The Little Sisters’, 3 a faint track up Quiltys Saddle, bypassing was the 11th incarnation of Doctor Who small rock monoliths beside the track that the track to the Bora Ground on top of the and my rucksack was my Tardis. resemble Katoomba’s Three Sisters, though mountain and following a track that winds n past trips across Styles Plains we had much much smaller. Normally this would through the forest as it descends to the Ifollowed the main track for some be our first rest point, with great views rainforest in the gully between Quiltys distance before heading through the across the Clyde Gorge, but not today. Mountain and Mt Sturgiss. Once in the swamp to meet up with a faint track that Brett was keen to reach Camp Rock by rainforest we followed a track that took us through thick scrub to the ascent sometimes became quite an up the ridge to Mt Haughton. However, Looking east from the top of Mt Haughton obstacle course as we battled Brett & Karen knew of a side track that small saplings growing in the skirted not only the swamp, but was quite middle of the track and climbed well defined and very scenic. Within 200 over, or crouched under fallen metres of leaving Styles Camp we turned trees, some quite large. We left onto a small side track and followed passed by the ravine, where the this as it crossed a creek. On the other side old log bridge had long ago we followed a faint pad which seemed to fallen, requiring a short detour get wetter as we went further: we had lost across some mossy covered the original track. Suddenly a shout from rocks before connecting with Jim across the creek told us he had found the track once again. the correct track, so we found an animal Soon after we came to an pad through this small swamp to dry open section that featured not ground and a well worn foot track. only a number of fallen logs, The track headed towards Pagoda

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 Rocks but soon veered away towards Mt the pass was only about 40 metres in Haughton. We went up a small ridge with length and we were soon at the top. It excellent views across the plains to Quiltys wasn't the summit, just a very small Mountain and Fosters Mountain on one plateau, and we could see higher ground side, and down Hollands Gorge to Mount further on. We now had to negotiate a Elliott, Island Mountain and Folly Point on swampy area full of long grass (probably the other. At 12.50 pm we found an open supplying the water to the grotto below) spot next to the track with these views. It and we were careful of snakes, but saw had a few rocks to sit on: lunch time. I none. enjoyed my lunch while laying back in the We now scrambled up a rocky section grass and enjoying the warm sunshine and to another small plateau with excellent the views. views to the north and west. Cameras were Half an hour later we shouldered our brought out. To the north we had Quiltys packs and descended to a line of trees Mountain, Fosters Mountain and Square that signaled the start of the climb up the Top Mountain, while to the west was ridge to the base of the cliffline at Mt Mount Hoddle and its adjacent Hoddles Haughton. A hard tiring climb in the heat Castle Hill. We still weren’t at the highest along a faint track that was marked only point, so continued scrambling up another by the occasional rock cairn, but this new incline, shorter that the previous, to route seemed to be less steep than the suddenly find ourselves on the eastern cliff older route through the swamp and edge, probably right above our camping certainly better than the torch-lit ascent cave. From here we had great views - to Kynie and I faced last year. Just after 2.00 the east Mt Sturgiss, Mt Elliott, Island pm we arrived at the base of the cliffs at Mountain, Folly Point and Mt Talaterang Mt Haughton. We inspected the caves with the impressive Hollands Gorge here but decided to follow the short track straight below; to the south the top of The narrow pass off Mt Haughton on the eastern side of the mountain to the Pigeonhouse Mountain, Shrouded Gods larger cave our club has always called the Mountain, Mt Donjon, Mt Cole and part of ‘Haughton Hilton’. Mt Tarn. and Mt Hoddle, and this sight took me It was still early in the afternoon, so we Finally it was decided to return to back 9 years. In 1998 Gary and I had done decided to go for an exploratory walk camp. Some of us stopped at the little a walk through the Budawangs, and grotto to top up water somehow we missed the track to Mt Tarn, during the return journey instead crossing this saddle to the cliffline but it wasn’t long before we of Mt Hoddle and discovering a difficult were at camp preparing our looking pass onto the mountain. We had dinner before it got too explored the cliffline for some hours dark. looking for an easier pass, thinking the Sunday was our main mountain was Mt Tarn until we gave up exploratory day. The sky and returned to Mt Haughton and found was clear and blue again. the correct track across to Mt Tarn. This We left all our cooking and memory was to prove most valuable today. sleeping gear in the cave, nce we arrived at the cliffline we confident it would still be Ofound the well hidden pass, covered there when we returned. At by the debris of fallen trees near the 8.30 am we moved off and entrance. It looked harder than ever before followed the faint track and I wondered how we had ever along the eastern flank of considered this to be a suitable pass. After Mt Haughton. We checked removing some of the fallen branches we several possible passes to attempted to climb up, and this proved the top of the mountain, but quite difficult. Somehow, aided by Karen these turned out to be dead and Jennifer, Kynie managed to get close Collecting water at the Mt Haughton cliffline ends. We passed a number to the top and suggested we may need around the north-western end of the of overhangs but these proved unsuitable Brett’s climbing tape. mountain. I emptied my rucksack of for overnight camping, though one had a The tape was passed up to Kynie who everything I needed for the weekend - to good supply of water dripping from the secured it to a small stout tree growing the amazement of my companions, and roof. near the top. Who was going to be first to then repacked with the requirements for Within 45 minutes we had reached the use the tape? It just happened to be me. the exploration. We scrub-bashed our way turnoff for the track to Mt Tarn at the Wrapping it around my arms I used the around the north-western side of the southern end of Mt Haughton. This was tape to lever myself up the steep rocks of mountain, hopefully locating a large cave just after a small dead-end canyon which the pass and I found it very easy, though that was marked on Jennifer’s old 1978 we explored for a few minutes. Ignoring our rucksacks had to be passed up. edition Budawang Sketch Map. Strangely, this turnoff we followed the track around We found ourselves standing on a small the cave has not been marked in on the southern end of Haughton and soon rock platform surrounded by scrub on one subsequent editions of the map. The scrub found a pass onto the mountain. Some side and a large drop on the other. We was thick, and in places the ground cover minor scrambling and scrub bashing then weren't on top, so Jim tied some white so loaded you couldn’t tell whether your a final scramble up some rocks found us Climbing up the pass onto Mount Hoddle feet would end up in a hole or on a rock. on a platform at the top of the mountain at Thankfully no one was injured. We found its southern end, for morning tea. a small grotto where clear water dripped Sitting in the hot morning sunshine we through a crack in the roof and formed in had more great views to enjoy. To the east a large pool. Many of us would utilise this straight down Hollands Gorge with Mt later to top up our water supplies. Sturgiss, Folly Point, Talaterang and the Not far around the next rock slab Jim conical hill known as ‘The Sentinel’. To the found a narrow pass that ascended south Mt Tarn, Donjon, Shrouded Gods through the cliffline. Thoughts of locating and Mt Cole. To the west Mt Hoddle - our the mysterious cave were put on hold as it next destination. looked like we had found a way up on top We descended to the track and of the mountain. The pass was a very followed it to what appeared to be a small narrow scramble for the entire climb, but overgrown saddle between Mt Haughton

Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 The Bushwalker | 5 Growee River Explorations Trevor Henderson, north-west into thick dry Newcastle Bushwalking Club woody scrub of the scratchiest variety - which was to torment hen our scheduled walk to Mt us for the next 5 hours. Buthingeroo was deferred I We headed up and sidled Wdecided to arrange a quick around the first of the pagodas, exploratory trip into the upper Growee gaining altitude via the narrow River near Rylstone. A Saturday morning slots between the formations. start from Newcastle makes for a long day Sometimes our progress was but Jenny, Paul and Theo were all halted by vertical walls, and enthusiastic. then we retreated and found I can remember some glowing reports other ways up. Eventually we about this area by Robert Vincent from reached the top by midday. Pagodas, pagodas. . . the late 1970s, but no one from NBC had Lunch was eaten with been there for over thirty years. The area spectacular views in every direction. But good company to enjoy a meal and many of interest is in the extreme North West from our mid-day vantage point the way cups of tea. corner of Wollemi National Park. The ahead seemed particularly challenging. n Sunday we had time to explore the local ranger gave me some good About half way along our intended route Oriver valley for several kilometres information about access and commented progress was blocked by 20 meter sheer downstream. There was a good flow of that it was “wild pagoda country” and rock face. We searched around to the east slightly turbid water. Walking along the “not many people go there”. side, which looked the most promising, river was relatively easy although there Our hastily prepared plan was drawn but we did not have enough time and were some thick patches of blackthorn up from the Growee map; a sheet of the rope to proceed with safety. bush. The views along the river are as infamous 20-metre contour variety. We here was no water on top so it was an spectacular as those from the top. There intended to follow Spring Log Ridge to Teasy decision to head down and are house size boulders, caves and natural the west of the Growee River for several around end of the ridge to reach the river arches and always above, the bulging kilometres before dropping down to the before dark. We were setting up camp just rounded pagodas leaning into the sky River to camp Saturday night. Access is on sunset. As we were erecting the tents a above. There were no signs of other through some private property but Lyrebird opened fire from only a few people visiting the area. fortunately the land owners turned out to metres away with its full repertoire. After Sunday afternoon we headed back be very friendly and helpful. We left our this encounter we knew every bird that upstream to the cars via Hefrons Gap and cars at the locked gate on the Park lives in or visits the area! There followed then to the ‘Globe’ in Rylstone for boundary and followed a fire trail for a traditional bushwalkers' Saturday night, refreshments before the long drive to about one kilometre before heading a real campfire in the wilderness and Newcastle. t

Continued from page 5 ‘Tail’ of Mt Hoddle, a section of rock which e scrambled up, down, around and curves away from the mountain midway Wover rocks and through more thick tape around a small gum tree to mark the along its western flank. However the views scrub. I must have been prodded by pass. I got the GPS out, took a position fix were blocked by trees, so we followed branches and trees in just about every part and marked it. Then we bashed our way rock platforms and bashed through scrub of my body. We rounded a large boulder through the scrub and a small swamp, to the NE, to again we find the low saddle and saw the pass we had climbed coming out onto a rock platform which we towards Hoddles Castle Hill. We tried to yesterday: we had now circumnavigated found was quite easy to follow across the find an alternative route off the mountain Mt Haughton. The route was familiar as mountain. The rock platform was bisected across the saddle: there were some gullies we made our way back to our camping by small channels of thick scrub at but all led to sheer drops. cave, and dinner. intervals of ever 50 metres or so. Although Eventually we decided to return. The I woke at 6.30 am on the Monday quite prickly, the scrub wasn’t too difficult going seemed relatively easy compared to morning after a great night’s sleep. Sandra to negotiate. the scrub bashing we had done higher up was already up and had spent the previous At first we headed north and soon came and we must have walked a fair distance 30 minutes collecting Brett & Karen’s out above a large saddle which obviously before I got out the GPS to check the eating utensils from the bush. During the led to the northern end of Mt Hoddle and direction and distance to the pass. I was night we had received a visit from the local eventually (out of our line of sight) surprised to find we were only 50 metres possums who had a field day with their Hoddles Castle. Then we headed SW to from the pass. Sure enough, within a cups, bowls and cooking gear. locate Mt Hoddle’s highest point - the map minute or two we had reached the point I had to leave early, so by 7.45 am I showed this to be on the SW end. where we had climbed up this morning. was packed and ready to go. I farewelled Eventually we found it, marked by a small We would have found the pass without the the other 5, collected Brett & Karen, and cairn in thick scrub. We now made our GPS but it was comforting to know we had we headed down the ridge towards Styles way to the W end of the mountain and it as back up just in case. Plains, up the hill to ‘The Halt’, through found a rock platform with great views, Once down we crossed the saddle back the forest to Kilpatrick Creek and to the including an Australian Kestrel which to the cliffline of Mt Haughton. Instead of Quiltys intersection for morning tea. We soared up the thermal draughts just as we returning to our cave the way we had now had the open track all the way back to arrived. come, we went around the western side of Newhaven Gap, then the long and arduous Mt Haughton. The track soon disappeared slog to the car park. e had lunch here, sitting on the and we had to scramble and force our way Wrocks enjoying the views of the over the rocks and through the scrub. But We stopped for lunch at the Sassafras western Budawangs: Mt Tarn, Bibbenluke we found the large camping cave marked camping area, just 300 metres from the car Mountain and Ridge, Burrumbeet Brook, on Jennifer’s old sketch map, and it turned park. The campsite is quite luxurious, with Profile Rock Hill, Corang Plateau with its out to be quite magnificent, leaving our a water tank, pit toilets and a covered conical peak, the headwaters of the present campsite for dead. There was eating area complete with picnic tables - Corang River and behind all this the plenty of room there but no water supply. most out of place with the rest of the unmistakable peaks of Mt Budawang, Wog However, about 500 metres further on we Budawangs. After lunch we headed to the Wog Mountain and Currockbilly Mountain. found a small grotto with an impressive car park, arriving there at 1.40 pm and the finish to a most successful, enjoyable but After lunch we again headed N across cascade of water dripping from the roof. t the top of the mountain, to look at the We all refilled. hard 3 days of hiking.

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 Graham Wright, Kiandra to Kosciuszko South Coast Bushwalkers

e woke at Thredbo YHA on the there to eat as the fog and rain had not did some scouting to find the easiest route. first day of our walk to cool, relented. Four Mile Hut is a must-see on As we neared the frost plain Lisa went out Wfoggy and rainy weather. Looking this walk. It really captures the spirit and in front with the GPS to look for the hut. up the mountainside you could see the ski culture of a past age. It is built of timber, Fortunately all went well and we were able tows disappear into the gray gloom. We corrugated steel sheeting and many large to travel straight to the hut, probably taking were about to depart for Kiandra and then tins that have been opened out and nailed around 40 minutes or so from where I walk back to Thredbo over eight days on to the outside walls as cladding. There are a slipped over. the classic K to K walk. There were three of lot of small holes in the walls. Inside, there On arrival at the hut, we settled in and us: me, Megan and Lisa (NPA). The is a large iron stove and fireplace and some cooked tea, dried our socks and did all the weather was not uplifting, but we had interesting bush furniture. usual domestic stuff. I was able to walk on forecasts of better conditions in a few days After lunch we headed back to the main my ankle - just. It appeared that I had not time. trail and continued on to the Nine Mile damaged the tendons and ligaments that At the appointed time a large 4WD Diggings, which we unfortunately missed in are used to support weight when walking, appeared, we loaded our packs and set off. the fog. I guess that we would have needed but had damaged the stabilisers. It was not By the time we got to Jindabyne, the a clear day to get a good appreciation of easy walking down steps, or over anything weather had cleared up with plenty of blue this area, so this will have to wait for a that was uneven. sky. We enjoyed a pleasant ride up to future trip. We were hoping to climb We slept in the hut and were Kiandra, entertained by our very chatty Tabletop Mountain as a side trip: it would entertained during the night by a rat driver. As we neared Kiandra and the sub- have let us see a lot of the country we were scratching around in a box of newspaper. to cross in the next few days. In We had carefully hung our food in bags the fog this was a futile exercise. from the supplied hooks, so the rat had When we looked up we could only lean pickings while we were there. During see 20-30 metres before the snow the night I remembered the roll of duct tape gums disappeared into the mist. in my first aid/repair kit and this gave me As the weather was still not the an idea. In the morning I strapped up my best we decided to push on for ankle with it. This was very successful: it Happy Jacks Hut. This made for a immobilised my ankle in the side to side rather long day, especially direction, while still allowing the ankle to considering that it was the first pivot front and back so that I could walk. day out and our pack weights were Using the stick I found that I could get at maximum. This hut is accessed around well enough to continue walking, so from the north by walking about 1 we packed up our stuff and set out for km off track from the fire trail, Mackays Hut. down a steep slope. To save time I e walked down the the access trail used my GPS to help with the Wand rejoined the Tabletop Mountain navigation to it. We walked along Trail. The weather was a bit better than the the trail until the way point was at day before, with clearing fog and patchy right angles to our direction of light rain. The country was attractive, with travel and then used the GPS to hills covered in snow gums and frost home in on the hut. I kept an eye hollows in between. The frost hollows were carpeted with an abundance of wildflowers High camp on Mt Anderson on the map and compass to ensure that things did not go astray. of many types and colours, providing an We had to negotiate a very uplifting display. It was pleasant, easy alpine country again, the same weather we steep, grassy, downhill slope to get to the walking. There was plenty of water had experienced at Thredbo re-appeared. hut. This was extremely slippery and We were dropped off at the start of the treacherous. Unfortunately I slid and fell Tabletop Mountain fire trail. There is part of the way down. As I slid, my right toe something very committing about being snagged on something, which twisted my dropped off in a remote area by a vehicle foot around much further than it was that then subsequently disappears and meant to go, resulting in a sprained ankle. I leaves you there, hoping that you have not paused for a minute or two thinking dark forgotten any vital piece of gear. thoughts of EPIRBs and helicopter rescues, We shouldered our packs and started then stood up and started to walk again. walking. My pack was heavy as I was About two steps later, I fell again and carrying a two man tent with no-one to twisted the same ankle again in exactly the share it, plus other bits I could have left same way! This situation called for a re- behind. The going was fairly easy, up a think. track that basically consisted of two wheel I took my pack off and Lisa carried it a ruts. The scenery (what we could see of it) short distance downhill to where the slope consisted of snow gums and grassy frost was less steep. Megan found me a stick to hollows with many wild flowers in bloom. use for support, and I gave her my GPS as I We passed ski trail markers as the trail is knew that walking/hopping would take my part of a popular cross country ski route. full attention. I set off very slowly using the We got to the Four Mile Hut turnoff at stick for support. We were about 800 around lunchtime and decided to head metres from the hut, so Lisa and Megan Inside Four Mile Hut

Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 The Bushwalker | 7 available in the many small streams that we It then follows this ridge to the summit, crossing and re-crossing many creeks in the passed. with the snow gums giving way to the real process. It then goes steeply uphill over the About mid-afternoon, we arrived at alpine vegetation, much of which was in end of the Strunmbo Range before Mackays Hut. We set up our tents outside flower. There is a very easy scramble to get descending to the , which we as sleeping in a tent is much more pleasant to the top. also had to cross. At the top of the hill after than inside a hut at this time of year. My We were fortunate that the day was fine this crossing we were hit by a sudden and ankle still felt OK, but I was now as the views from the top of Jagungal are very intense thunderstorm with large experiencing a fair amount of shoulder pain amounts of pea-size hail and rain. The and my pack was feeling very lightning and thunder were very close uncomfortable. We cooked tea and had a together and we were right on top of a hill! pleasant evening drying our socks around We put on our rain jackets and headed off a the fire. Mackays hut is in very pleasant and bit faster down towards Valentines Hut picturesque surroundings, with grass, snow which was now only about 2 km away. We gums and granite tors set in gently stopped at in Valentines Hut as we were undulating country, with a clear alpine rather cold and wet and the hut is a stream running through. particularly nice one. It was rather hot to The next day found the hills got steeper sleep in though. as we were closing in on Jagungal. The The next morning, we decided that, as weather was now much better: no rain and we were halfway through our walk, it was some blue sky. Cresting a hill we were time for a swim. Valentines Creek which rewarded with a fine view of the imposing runs near the hut is an ideal place for this. mountain. We continued on past the Megan and Lisa went down first and when weather station that marks the northerly they were back I went down for my turn. ascent route to a very pleasant camp site at The water was rather cold: my feet became the crossing. We intended to numb in the process of wading out to a climb Mt Jagungal (2061 m) as a side trip, deeper section where I could submerge but decided to wait until the following day myself. I managed to get right under, but as it was getting late and we had walked a The party on Mt Kosciusko my time there was not long! considerable distance. Refreshed, we packed up. I put on my ext morning we took the track up Mt really impressive. It seems like you can see long trousers to walk in (a first!) as the NJagungal, with Lisa carrying a pack half of Australia! We could see Tabletop March flies were getting a bit annoying. We with a few essential things inside. The track Mountain, which we had walked past in the decided to have a short day to recuperate a passes through typical frost hollow fog a few days before, and some of the bit and set off with the aim of getting to vegetation, crosses a bog then ascends Main Range. There were great views Whites River. We had pleasant easy through snow gums to the southern ridge. toward Gungarten and out west as well. It walking except for my pack and Megan's was cool and windy achilles tendons, which were becoming on top and all too irritated by her boots. We had our first soon, it was time to human contact on the road near Schlink head back down to Pass when a Snowy Mountain Authority our camp. truck drove past. The mountain views were Back at the camp, great as we were now getting very close to we packed up and the Main Range. set off again on the We set up our tents at the rather seedy Gray Mare Trail. We Whites River Hut and had a long restful walked along, afternoon reading and relaxing. Being occasionally looking rather irritated with my pack, I removed back to enjoy the the waist buckles and sharpened the edges view of Jagungal. As that bear against the straps with my pen we neared Gray knife as it appeared that the buckles were Mare Hut and our slowly and insidiously slipping, transferring left hand turn onto the pack weight to my shoulders. This Valentines Hut Trail done, the buckles were much improved. we could catch some Unfortunately the next days walking views of part of the revealed that this had not fixed the immense Geehi problem. Valley. We visited While at the Whites River Hut, I also Gray Mare Hut on decided that my duct tape ankle brace was the way past and due to come off as my lower leg was had a look at the hut looking a bit red. I cut it off with my and all the old penknife and lost more than a few leg hairs machinery that is in the process. Duct tape sticks superbly to lying in the bush skin! nearby. Being an he next day we set off up the old engineer I would Tvehicle track onto the Rolling Ground. have liked to have This area has a reputation for people spent more time getting lost as there are no tracks and map here. and compass navigation is very difficult if My pack was still the land features cannot be seen. We were uncomfortable and heading toward Consett Stephen Pass, was causing me which links the Rolling Ground to the Main some grief. I was Range. After some careful terrain matching having a lot of on the map we easily found the pass and trouble keeping the crossed it to the northern slopes of Mount weight off my Tate, with no real need to refer to my GPS. shoulders. My ankle While crossing the Rolling Ground we was doing OK were careful to walk high up on the sides of though. the slopes to avoid walking over the many We turned onto green and lush sphagnum bogs that are the Valentines Hut found there. When you do step on one of Trail, which runs these it is like walking over a springy down a valley, mattress! They are very spongy underfoot.

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 We picked up a pad on Mount Tate that short distance and found a flat spot to Kosciuszko. As we got closer to this contours around and followed it for a camp, with the idea of climbing Mount mountain, we started to encounter crowds while. At a likely looking spot we dropped Townsend. The valley contained a of people - a real shock to the system after our packs and climbed Mt Tate, for our profusion of wildflowers, of many types and a week of solitude. We followed the second 2000 m summit. There were great colours. spiralling track up to the very crowded views from the top. We could see Jagungal Once camp was set up we had to summit for some more great views. By the behind us, and in front some of the Main reconsider our plan. Black clouds had time we had got there the wind had blown Range. started to roll in and we could hear distant up and it was time to put our jackets on as We lost the pad when it crossed a boggy thunder. We decided to wait and see. The the temperature was also pretty cool. From area and we continued contouring around storm got much closer, the temperature fell the top you could also see the new toilet looking for it. After a short time it was and hail and rain started. The hail block at Rawson's Pass. It does not blend in obvious that something was not working continued for some time, forming into piles very well at the moment. I hope that the out right so I called a lunch stop and at the edges of our tents. By the time the NPWS will improve things here. checked the map while chewing my hard storm had cleared it was too late to climb Once we had taken the obligatory tack and jam. I realised that we had to cross Townsend, so we settled in for the night. photos we descended to Rawson's Pass and over the Tate East Ridge and that the pad This camp site is a classic one for took the steel walkway to the Thredbo must have turned and headed upward at observing spectacular sunsets. The sun Chairlift, enjoying the views of Lake the boggy area, so after lunch we headed went down over the end of the valley, Cootapatamba and the Ramsheads on the up the hill on a compass bearing that bringing the rows of mountain ranges to way. By this time it was evident that my should intersect the pad further up. After the west into sharp profile in a red and pack adjustments had worked well. I was ten minutes of so we got out of the rough orange glow. The light shone off the now able to keep the pack weight off my stuff and walked across a grassy, flower- meandering creek, making it glisten like a shoulders and my discomfort from this had studded meadow with our pad visible mirror. The red and orange light also ceased. This was a particular relief as I have running across it. painted the landscape, bathing it in colour. a long walk in Tasmania coming up and I Back on the pad we walked past Mann I took a lot of photographs ... By about 9:00 was keen to get the problem fixed before Bluff, which Lisa bagged. We camped on a pm the show was over and it was time to going. knoll on the Geehi side of Mount Anderson head for the sleeping bag. We arrived at the top of the chairlift at for our first really high camp. We had a was pretty fed up with my pack at this Thredbo around lunch time and decided to fantastic sunset and amazing views from Istage. Talking about this with Megan wimp out and ride the chairlift down to the the top of the rocks next to our tents. We sparked my reasoning processes, and I bottom. We did not want to tangle with the did not have the energy at this stage to decided to increase the torso length downhill mountain bikes on the way down, climb Mount Anderson, we will have to adjustment by 5 cm. I was a bit reluctant to and we had my ankle injury and Megan's leave this until next time. do this as I thought it had been set properly achilles tendons to consider. We arrived The next morning we continued on by the shop I bought it from. However, I safely at the bottom and found the car still southward along the range. We soon picked have a couple of smaller packs that are not there and in working order, which is always up the rough 4WD track that only consists adjustable which give me no problems with a relief. of two faint wheel ruts and followed this. shoulder pain, so I knew that there was I was really pleased with the walk and This track passes quite close to the summit something wrong with this pack. can’t wait to get back there again. I was of . We dropped our packs The next morning was our last day. We already planning a walk for next summer in here and climbed up the rest of the way, to headed up the pad to Townsend, which my head while we were doing this one! t stand on Australia's third highest peak. was two km as the From here we continued southward crow flies from our along a high, very exposed ridge which camp. We soon soon joined on to the Main Range Track. At arrived at the top this stage we started meeting other walkers. after a fairly easy We went over , another of climb and enjoyed the 2000 m ones. The view into the Geehi another lot of Valley from here is awesome. The amazing views. frighteningly steep slopes plunge There was still some downward into the depths below, making unmelted hail me think of the abyss that the ancients around near the believed existed at the ends of the world. summit from the Tearing ourselves away from this previous afternoon's spectacle, we went past the magnificent storm. Lake Albina, tucked away in it's deep, Back at camp we glacially formed valley, to the Wilkinson's packed up and Creek bowl between Townsend and headed in the Kosciuszko. We walked down the valley a direction of

Camp at the Tumut River Crossing

Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 The Bushwalker | 9 Abseiling Upper South Bowen Creek and Yileen Canyons Doug Floyd, Newcastle Bushwalking Club

Pass car park, at 9:30 am. A very defined We pass side canyons: some you don't track most of the way made for easy even notice unless you look back at the walking, with ample opportunity to watch right moment. The walls are quite high the scenery, see the flowers and watch the now and much of the cliff-face in this area birds. is a hanging garden of ferns and bright Jamison’s book mentions two ways green mosses. Eventually the creek into the canyon. We chose the right side, widens a little and we can see the gap in with abseils. Near the end of the ridge we the skyline that indicates a bigger junction drop into the creek on the right and on the left. This section is more follow it downstream, skirting around overgrown than last time I was here: I above the short, wet, scrubby, canyony wonder if we have passed the exit. section onto the first abseil. This is about he others ahead of me do miss it, but I 10 m, to a small ledge to bypass the pool Tsight the dead branch propped from (except Tania that is, who tipped in). The the bank up to a convenient tree 3 or 4 m A long drop second abseil, again about 10 m into the up. We all scramble up and have lunch in creek junction with Bowen’s, but we need a sunny spot at the foot of the cliff line a 40 m rope because the anchor is a tree above. We follow the well-defined foot n Friday evening Paul, Steve and back up on the right. track around the series of short cliff-lines Doug left Newcastle about 7:20 pm This junction is delightful: high narrow to the top. The only tricky bits are seeing Oand drove up to Mt Wilson Via cliffy section with flat sandy/pebbly floor the small hole where you scramble Richmond (for Kebabs) and Bells Line Of that winds away down stream. Black through the fallen bolder to break one Road, to arrive about 10:45 pm. Jim was waterworn cliffs, covered here and there cliff-line, and later scrambling up at the already in bed and of course didn’t stir, by patches of green moss or ferns. We place where there used to be a length of but the fire suggested he wasn’t long soon come to a broader section of creek rope to steady you. gone. A clear mild night for a change in with sand banks covered in tree-ferns and We recover our cars, Tania returns to this area. The forecasts varied by source vines amongst the typical coachwood and Sydney, and the rest of us head back to but BOM promised rain in the early sassafras trees. We walk on down a creek Cathedral of Ferns Camping area for a morning with a change. By 3:30 am it with tree vegetation on both banks, pass laid-back tea and talk around the fire. was overcast with a faint drizzle; by 9 am lots of ferns and moss, wade through Sydney University Astrological Society is when Tania arrived the sun was starting short shallow pools, negotiate boulder having a field trip with many people to show and the vegetation was hardly jams over, round, down, through, under, arriving all through the night to peer even dewy. any which way. An altogether delightful through telescopes at the planets in this Autumn colours have arrived to the walk, pleasant temperatures, fascinating clear sky. Steve and Paul invite immigrant trees of Mt Wilson, brilliant lighting due to the autumn sun and the themselves to look through a 12” reds, yellows and many hues of brown. most unbelievable scenery and little telescope at Saturn and Jupiter where Some trees are already losing their leaves creatures. Enough obstacles to make they can see the rings, but are so as you drive down the avenues a swirl things interesting and enjoyable without disappointed by the small image size: of colour follows. Prolific growth along being difficult. about as big as a 1 cent piece. This is the the roads mean the verges are softened by e come to a place where an abseil highest magnification because with any the hanging ferns and other greenery. Wcan pass a waterfall tumbling down higher the atmospherics cause fuzziness. A quick car shuffle saw us walking through a boulder jam and over rock A pleasant warm night with clear down the ridge 400 m from the Pierce’s slabs. But Steve has been here before. He starry skies and the call of night birds. takes his pack off and disappears through Again a lazy start as we pack up camp and One slip and . . . you’re wet a small hole in the rocks, emerges below get ready to drive to Yileen by 9 am. We us and wriggles over the next couple of do the car shuffle to Pierce’s Pass car park drops to the sand beside the pool below. and are walking along the ridge by 9:30 We all follow and continue our journey am. A very nice day for a stroll: views of down through an area where, long ago, the huge cliffs in the Gross Valley and the walls of the canyon above caved in beyond the rolling hills to the Sydney forming a chock-stone roof. The narrow skyline in the far distance. section continues past the chock-stones We soon reach the end of the ridge through some short waist deep wades, and drop into the creek. 40 minutes later more challenging obstacles but still well we are in the start of the real canyon within our capabilities. A few 2+ m section. This is markedly different to jumps onto soft sand, some narrow slots yesterday: mostly rocky with not much to chimney down, and some narrow vegetation. A number of shallow wades, ledges to walk around to save a swim. many climb-downs, some a little tricky, One person hangs and dropped down a then we reach the 6 m jump into a pool of 3+ m jump and then wedges a small log clear water. Everyone jumps and the for the others to scramble down. We slide water temperature is very tolerable – down a sloping log across a pool, one by about 17 degrees. one, each in turn sliding off into the water A short swim and a few more wades unable to negotiate the obstacle where brings us to a more open part of canyon the log touches the wall under a slight with tree-ferns and coachwood trees. overhang. Doug is lucky and finds a hand Huge slab cliff walls towering all round, grip that enables him to pass - the only every now and again we catch a glimpse one still dry. of the Gross valley ahead. A 15 – 20 m

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 abseil down a clean face amongst the Steve. The scenery whichever way you huge square blocks of stone. We are soon look, up, down, left right and behind is at the main event - the 55 m abseil. From unbelievable. Paul in particular is stoked the abseil hook-in point you can’t see the that he has managed this face so well. landing immediately below, just the The two canyons we have done this valley centre way way down below weekend are particularly enjoyable, each (probably 700 m down). We have markedly different to the other. We are brought 2 x 60 m ropes to do the whole all pleased that water temperatures and face in one go. air temperatures are still not that cold we I show a different knot for this abseil, experienced in November. The lighting is one that will not pull through the chain different to summer - much gentler, link added to the anchor slings. Doing giving the whole scene a particularly things this way would enable you to pleasant feel. The section of Bowen’s descend on one rope and use a light line Creek we did would make an excellent to recover the rope. bushwalk since it is possible to do it It is an impressive abseil and everyone without abseils. You will not find a more enjoys it, especially first timers Paul and beautiful place. t

Success!

Down the hole in Bowens

Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 The Bushwalker | 11 Navshield 2007 who wanted to check locations on the master map and ask last minute question. Daltons Defence Everything was running smoothly and those left in camp wandered around July 7 - 8 weeks and were only able to access the chatting to each other, or eavesdropped at Yengo Np from the Base the last weekend the WICEN communications tent hoping Doug Floyd, after a thigh-deep wade. Two weeks to hear something that might call them to Bushwalker Wilderness before I didn’t know if we could use the action. The 'hurry up and wait' that all Rescue Service Yengo NP and was thinking of extending emergency service workers know so well. the Pokolbin side. The wild weather and A message came through of distress the emergency services work-load could whistle blasts near point Alpha. A have been a reason for the slightly fewer Bushranger team investigated and found Introduction than usual numbers. that a “lost” team member had just For 2007 we were in the picturesque reunited with their team and ‘all is well’. Valley. Wollombi Brook split Friday A phone message came through for a the course in half. Yengo National Park member in a two-day team: “pull out after lay to the west, with steep spurs, long Today the water level in Wollombi Brook one day and contact home immediately”. ridges separated by deep thickly vegetated was only knee deep, and most of the Messages went out over the radio network creeks, and rugged high points like roads were drivable again. The Killeen’s and the team was located on the Yengo Daltons Defence and Mount Dalton. To had done a great job laying out Base and side: they returned at about 2:30 pm. the east lay the Pokolbin State Forest - radio check points; the water drums are a This was a good test of our bushrangers flatter, with long interconnecting ridge great innovation and will save a lot of and communications and they were up to lines dissected by deep rainforest gullies. driving. Tents were soon erected and the task. Both areas had their own “interesting” gear distributed, ready for registration at About 3:30 pm teams started to trickle navigational challenges and confronting 7:30 pm. A steady flow of participants back into camp, some to cross to the other route choices through unmarked cliff lines were arriving. Everything was running side, others to call it a day and lounge in and rocky outcrops. smoothly, showing the excellent the Brook on deckchairs. By 7:00 pm the The lead-up for this NavShield had preparation of the administration staff. steady stream of returning 1 day been anything but standard due to wild WICEN and the SCAT teams were in participants grew to a constant stream weather over the preceding few weeks, place, tested and ready for action. Camp with a sudden flurry in the last 10 and many of the Hunter emergency fires sprouted all around the paddock as minutes. That included one team soaking services still hadn’t finished the backlog of teams settled in for the night, renewing wet and shivering after swimming the jobs from the storms. Wollombi Brook acquaintances and meeting new players. Brook, while another team that was was uncrossable on foot after the floods of It was a great atmosphere, a pleasure to beside them had arrived 2 minutes later the June long weekend. We couldn’t be here. We had a clear starry night with nice and dry, having walked to the access any of the course at all for two a 3/4 moon later, silhouetting the rugged crossing. Still, the wet team from the terrain around us. Blue Mountains NP were the winners and winners are grinners. All teams were accounted for by 7:45 pm, with just one Saturday team to return from Charlie (in the end A cloudless cold they decided to walk back). morning dawned as At 8:00 pm we had the presentation to the camp woke up the one-day teams after they had partaken to instant activity of the excellent meal provided by our in preparation for caterers. There was general approval of the days compe- the course, with the usual comments like tition. The Single- control point 35 was worth more points or ton Rotary Catering we couldn’t find points 33 or 63. One van did a brisk problem was that the contours on one of business for break- the maps were not very clear and very fast of cereal, fruit, hard to read at night. We are not sure coffee and egg and what went wrong this time. There was bacon as required. just one protest about a team member At 7:00 am the seen without a pack. This turned out to Bushranger teams have been on a 'rest stop'. There was one were briefed and near case of hypothermia - the only real set out to their action for the SCAT team today apart allotted locations. from a couple of thorn removals for first At 8:30 am the aid (and we were all glad there was little participants were to do). welcomed by the After a general exodus of homeward- President and the bound one-day teams it was quiet again. Course Setter gave Another clear cool starry night with no last minute valu- action, the way we like it. able information: “watch for those Sunday stinging trees and unmarked cliffs”. A cold clear dawn with just the odd team There was a count returning to base to register as a radio down to 8:45 am, control point. The breakfast was again followed by a rush satisfying as we all fired up for another to the clothes line quiet peaceful day. of control cards. The only excitement today was when a Suddenly the camp Bushranger team found someone who had seemed empty, just lost their team, but they were soon a few remaining reunited by returning to the point last

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club seen and making a noise. Three teams Conclusion were sure point 45 was not where it should be because they did a combined This was another great NavShield, The Ambulance SCAT team on hand at search of the whole spur. However, a enjoyed by everyone. The location was Base. They were not needed, thankfully, Bushranger teams managed to find it ok. thanks to the generosity of Snow but they were there ready to go. The teams started to return and all Brickman, the use of Broken Back Range Belinda the first aid person. She had were still smiling, even if some looked a was thanks to State Forests (and Graham only minor damage to fix, but was there if bit tired or were “walking funny”. By Price), the use of Yengo NP was thanks to really needed. 2:30 pm everyone was accounted for and NPWS (and Debbie Colbourne). Very Singleton Rotary, who stepped in at the Bushranger teams were all back. picturesque and the navigation just right the last minute when local emergency Everyone had lunch while we waited for for all levels of competence from beginner caterers couldn’t help us due to the strain the Minister for Emergency Services, to expert. on their resources caused by the storms. Nathan Rees, who wanted to meet the All you BWRS members who participants and present the prizes. The participated and did so much to make this presentation went very well. There was A big thank you to: event the success it continues to be. universal approval of the course, WICEN who provided the communication 2008 will be the twentieth NavShield I congratulations again to everyone links between Base, the radio check points hope we can make it even bigger and involved, it isn’t a one person task. and the roving Bushrangers. better. t

Dot Butler most of their retirement with mid-week 12 September 1911 - 21 February 2008 walks. A couple of years later she climbed the Three Sisters as part of the Youth The Barefoot Bushwalker Hostels Association’s 50th birthday celebrations and three years later in 1992 she abseiled down the south east pylon Alex Colley OAM, on the Harbour Bridge as part of the 60th Sydney Bushwalkers Anniversary of the Bridge opening; an appropriate event since she had watched from the top of the arch when de Groote slashed the opening ribbon. Dot’s walking career started in childhood when, together with her three brothers and sister, they set out from their Five Dock home to explore the mangroves of Homebush Bay, climbed trees and even cranes, went to Callan Park and Rookwood Cemetery and even Dot Butler and Alex colley share the to Prospect Reservoir in which they were warmth of a campfire in the MacDonnell caught swimming. In her teens she Ranges near Alice Springs—1991 joined Wally Balmus’s acrobatic club which performed on Bondi Beach. At the age of 20 she joined the Sydney and worked with the Rangers League. Bushwalkers. Although she did a lot of She has been a very generous donor to cycling and mountaineering, bushwalking The Colong Foundation for Wilderness was her first love to which she always and was a founding member of Natural returned. Areas Ltd. From the Sydney Bushwalkers’ In 1936 she and Dr Eric Dark viewpoint, the organisation of the accomplished the first climb of Crater purchasing, financing, conveyancing and Bluff in the . Next year surveying of the SBW-owned property she went on the first tiger walk from “Coolana” was an achievement for which n the early hours of the morning of Wentworth Falls to Mt Cloudmaker and the club will be forever grateful. As the IThursday 21 February 2008 in Hobart, return to Katoomba lead by Gordon era of permits, party limits, stoves only, bushwalker Dot Butler passed away. Her Smith and Max Gentle. At the end of the leadership licensing and litigation family were at her bedside; her death year she went on a trip to New Zealand advances, we will be ever more thankful peaceful. A Wake was held in the led by Gordon Smith and Jack Debert, the for “Coolana”. Warrumbungles and on Easter Sunday first of many trips to NZ. She returned to Dot not only contributed 127 articles her daughter Iluna and granddaughter NZ where she took a job as a typist, to SBW’s monthly magazine, many Chloe scattered her ashes from Grand joined the Alpine Club and soon became a illustrated by her drawings, but was High Tops. In attendance were guide at the Mount Cook Hermitage. Editor in 1954, 1955, 1956 and was a approximately 30 friends and fellow Returning to Australia in 1941 she long time member of the collating team. bushwalkers. resumed bushwalking with the Sydney Although Dot excelled in all her Bushwalkers where she met and married activities she was no feminist. Oblivious Ira Butler. After the war she started a of convention, she did what she wanted n June 1989 Dot Butler, then 77 and family, two girls and two boys who were and did it better than almost everyone of SBW’s first Honorary Active Member, taken out bushwalking and camping. either sex. Nor was she competitive. Iwas awarded the 1988 Australian In the days when bushwalkers didn’t This article covers only some of the Geographic Adventurer of the Year gold own cars and traffic was light, cycling highlights of Dot’s career. Those who medal “in appreciation of her contribu- was a pleasant form of road travel. Dot would like to read the full story should tion to bushwalking and mountaineering was a keen cyclist and cycled not only in read her book “The Barefoot Bushwalker” and encouragement of a sense of Australia but in Spain, Ireland, Russia, now in its second print. As the publisher adventure in young people.” Dot was the Germany and Cambodia. ABC writes: “It reveals a personality of third recipient. At the time she was bush- Dot was also a keen conservationist, warmth and charm whose sense of fun walking with a group of Sydney Bush- having participated in the Garrawarra, and abundant enjoyment of life t walkers in their seventies making the Bouddi, Era and Myall Lakes campaigns characterises all her experiences.”

Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 The Bushwalker | 13 Fraser Island

Julie Cox, a ‘national highway’ Watagan Wanderers and all road rules apply although it can only be used safely 2 Fraser Island is 280 km long by hours either side of approximately 15 km wide and is the low tide. So our taxi largest sand island in the world. pick up times were Approximately 400,000 people visit the dictated by the tides. island each year. The Fraser Island Great Our walk began. Walk is 90 km long, begins at Dilli It was 12.30 pm Village, and winds through the centre of before we got the island. It uses old tram ways and underway, crossing a pathways of the Butchulla people who boardwalk over a sedge-filled creek and walk 21 km to visit McKenzie Jetty and inhabited Fraser Island for more than climbing through open forest to reach old rail lines and the remains of an old 5000 years before being almost wiped out Wongi Sandblow, which we climbed after Commando School and historical site. by the early 1900s. We took a leisurely 8 dumping our packs. This afforded us Some of us walked around the lake and days to walk the track, walking as little as wonderful views over the surrounding others relaxed. 6.3 km to 16.2 km per day. This left forest and let us have some play time in We passed through some of the plenty of free time to swim in the the sand. It was now quite hot as we island’s tallest forests to Lake Wabby and wonderful lakes and explore. Each camp trudged up more small hills, but before the Hammerstone Sandblow, which is site (except for two) was beside a lake long we were looking at our fenced gradually encroaching on the lake and and all camps had toilets and water. campsite, with dingo-proof food boxes will probably engulf it one day. Again the Thursday 30th August – Thirteen and swimming in Lake Boomanjin. Pure afternoon was spent swimming and two Watagan Wanderers met at Hervey Bay. bliss. sturdy walkers walked the 7 km to the Next morning we took two maxi taxies to Next day we passed through more beach and back. Lake Wabby was a River Heads, 20 minutes away, to catch open woodland and rainforest with kauri ceremonial site for the Butchulla people. the 8.30 am barge. The crossing to Fraser pines and staghorns, palm lilies and That night down came the rain, which is took 35 minutes and the captain informed mosses. Lake Benaroon was tonight’s not surprising as the annual rainfall for us that from the barge we could only see a camp and we didn’t need any coaxing to Fraser is 1.8 m. quarter of the island. We were met on the get into the swim of it. Sunday morning From Lake Wabby we walked along a other side by Steve, the owner of the was Father’s Day but I didn’t see any TV high ridge and visited the Badjala island’s only taxi , who relayed us to Dilli sets or electric drills being passed out to Sandblow, before descending into the Village. This involved a 16 km crossing of the dads in our group. Instead they had Valley of Giants which contains some of the island to the beach and then a 10 km another perfect day where we saw our the larges trees on the island. The rain run down the beach - twice. The beach is first dingo footprints on the lake edge, was set in now, but most went off to see a before an easy days large Tallowwood tree, I was happy to walk into Central snuggle into the tent. Station, again with Thursday 6th September: our 7th day a dingo fence and it was a day of walking in the rain. around the camp. Most of us didn’t mind as it added a new This afternoon perspective to the walk. We passed some hardy souls through impressive stands of Brushbox did a 16 km walk and Satinay trees and rainforest - magic, while others before reaching Lake Garawongera. It was wandered around quite windy and only a couple of hardy Wanggoolba Creek souls went for a swim as we huddled and the historic under picnic shelters to drink hot soups station while and teas. In the early hours of the learning more morning I heard what sounded like a dog about Fraser Island snuffling, and two of our group saw a history. dingo opening a container. He soon lost We departed interest in it as soon as he got the lid off, Central Station at 8 to find it contained only water. am - which was An early start got us into Happy Valley now our usual to meet up with our taxi for another departure time, shuttle back to the barge. and within 90 This was a great walk, I would minutes were recommend it highly. t beside the most beautiful little lake. Basin Lake - and it was ‘last one in was a rotten egg’. Next stop, the famous Lake McKenzie. This lake is very popular with the tourist coaches and until 3 pm it was like Nelson Bay. After that it was all ours. Till then though, our hardiest walkers elected to

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 Best Brands Best Range Best Advice Photo: MVP / Taryn Miller Taryn / MVP Photo: Cameron Barrie crossing the en route to Blue Lake. Blue to route en River Snowy the crossing Barrie Cameron

Sydney 491 Kent Street (02) 9264 5888 Chatswood 72 Archer Street (02) 9419 6955 email: [email protected] web: www.mountainequipment.com

Volume 33, Issue 2, Autumn 2008 The Bushwalker | 15 WALKING THE WALK SINCE 1930

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