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Meet the locals at National Park. Heart of Country It seems hard to believe that our Heart of Country region contains such an amazing array of national parks, preserved for us and for the future ... sublime natural wonders found nowhere else on earth. Such delights as Oxley Wild , , the Warrumbungles, Washpool and Abercrombie Karst allow you to create your own experience ... to walk gently through these rocky, tree clad environments, content in the knowledge that they'll be there forever. You're welcome to stay a while in Heart of Country, enjoying warm hospitality, country heritage, and, of course, its natural wonders.

Full moon at East Kunderang, Oxley Wild Rivers National Park Photography: LEFT: H. Lund / Courtesy Tourism RIGHT: NSW, M. Van Ewijk / DECCW

72 For more information visit www.nswnationalparks.com.au/heartofcountry HIGHLIGHTS SCULPTURES IN THE SCRUB

This unique new visitor attraction features four sculptures within Timmallallie National Park adjacent to the Dandry Gorge Aboriginal Area. Renowned sculptors Brett Garling, Badger Bates, Ken Hutchinson and Col Henry tell the story of Aboriginal history, contemporary Aboriginal culture and connection with the landscape of the Pilliga. It is amazing to see how they have interpreted their stories, and to admire these sculptures set against the spectacular natural backdrop that the national park location provides.

A short walk by the scenic Dandry Gorge will take you to these remarkable works, and the signage that reveals the stories they tell. You can stay for a picnic or barbecue with facilities nearby.

Sculptures in the scrub in their The Pilliga Forest Discovery Centre spectacular location provides information on the Sculptures in the Scrub. The centre also features «¬18 interactive displays and exhibitions, 0 125 250 500 Kilometres «¬27 helping you uncover the secrets of the QLD 4 «¬2 Pilliga Forest. 19 «¬19 28 MOREE «¬28 32«¬ Pilliga Forest Discovery Centre: ! «¬12 6843 4011 «¬21 BOURKE «¬16 ! CO «¬23 ! THE BREADKNIFE AND ARMIDALE «¬8 «¬30 ! BEYOND TO THE GRAND «¬26 TAMWORTH HIGH TOPS ! «¬25 ¬«3131 PO ! BROKEN HILL This is a world class walk in a National ! «¬11 Heritage Area listed for its geology and 29«¬«¬7 14 ! DUBBO «¬ scenic beauty. The Breadknife and Grand NSW SCONE !«¬3 «¬15 High Tops Circuit is a 4 to 5 hour walk, but MUDGEE ! even a shorter walk along the track will NEWCASTLE ! reward you with spectacular views. The ¬«13 «¬17 ¬«34 ORANGE circuit will take you right past the famous 22«¬! «¬24 Breadknife, named for the thin and jagged knife like rock that forms it. Keep going just «¬10 «¬1 ! 33¬« that bit further and you will make it to the GRIFFITH ¬«9 ! «¬35 WOLLONGONG ! Grand High Tops which offers some of the 37¬« GOULBURN best views of the Warrumbungle National ! «¬6 WAGGA WAGGA Park. You will look down on the Breadknife ! «¬5 CANBERRA and some of the other amazing geological DENILIQUIN «¬20 ! features of the former Warrumbungle ! BATEMANS BAY volcano. Works have been completed over ALBURY 36«¬ ! COOMA the last few years to upgrade sections of VIC ! this walk including staircases up some of the steeper areas along the walk to make this experience even safer and more 1 Abercrombie KCR pg 74 20 Livingstone SCA/NP pg 78 enjoyable. 2 Bald Rock NP pg 74 21 Mann NR pg 79 3 Beni SCA pg 74 22 SCA pg 79 Warrumbungle National Park Visitor 4 Boonoo Boonoo NP pg 75 23 Mount Kaputar NP pg 79 Centre: 6825 4364 5 Brindabella NP pg 75 24 Nangar NP pg 79 6 Bungonia NP/SCA pg 75 25 Oxley Wild Rivers NP pg 80 7 NR pg 75 26 Pilliga NR/NP/SCA/AA pg 80 8 Cathedral Rock NP pg 75 27 Tooloom NP pg 80 9 Cocoparra NP pg 75 28 Torrington SCA pg 80 10 Conimbla NP pg 76 29 Towarri NP pg 80 11 Coolah Tops NP pg 76 30 Warrabah NP pg 80 12 NP pg 76 31 Warrumbungle NP pg 81 13 Goobang NP pg 77 32 Washpool NP pg 82 14 Goonoo NP/SCA pg 77 33 Weddin Mountains NP pg 82 15 Goulburn River NP pg 77 34 Willandra NP pg 82 16 NP pg 77 35 Wombeyan KCR pg 82 17 Hill End HS pg 78 36 Woomargama NP pg 82 18 Koreelah NP pg 78 37 Yanga NP pg 82 19 Kwiambal NP pg 78 Photography: Sherratt P. / DECCW

Heart of Country 73 A place awes e night skies;

6\GQH\ shini , twinkli stars ... take a m ent to appreciate e beauty it all

1 ABERCROMBIE 2 BALD ROCK 3 BENI KARST CONSERVATION RESERVE NATIONAL PARK 8,883 HA STATE CONSERVATION AREA 1,841 HA 0 5s Camping fee level – special fees Camping fee level 3 This forested area is a good representation of the original vegetation around Dubbo and Highlights The Abercrombie Caves lie in Highlights The water-streaked dome of Bald provides protection for a diverse range of a quiet, picturesque valley, 4 hours from Rock is the largest granite rock in - plant and animal communities. Visitors can Sydney. Here you'll fi nd the Archway - the 750 m long, 500 m wide and 200 m high. go picnicking, walking and cycling in the park. largest natural archway in the Southern Hemisphere, and a number of other grand Activities There are canyons and stone Dubbo offi ce: 6841 7199 and richly decorated caves. A kiosk at the arches on the three-hour return walk to the caves sells takeaway food and souvenirs. summit, which offers panoramic views - on a clear day you can see well into . Activities Cave tours, camping, hiking, Other walks (4 to 14 km return) take in the swimming and fossicking. There is an surrounding granite country. The track to the abundance of wildlife. Open everyday 9 am foot of Bald Rock is wheelchair-accessible, The Abercrombie Caves to 5 pm. with assistance. The camping area suits car- are waiting to be explored based camping and medium-sized caravans, Access A four-hour drive from Sydney. and has toilets and creek water. Follow the M4 motorway west through the Blue Mountains, Katoomba, Lithgow and on Access 29 km north of Tenterfi eld off the to Bathurst. The reserve is approximately sealed Mt Lindesay (Woodenbong) road onto one hour from Bathurst on the Trunkey the sealed entrance road. Vehicle entry fee is Creek-Goulburn Road. $7 per day.

Abercrombie Caves: 6368 8603 Tenterfi eld offi ce: 6736 4298

Spectacular Landscapes in Photography: TOP: Courtesy Tourism BOTTOM: NSW, Foley / Lightmoods P.

74 For more information visit www.nswnationalparks.com.au/heartofcountry 4 BOONOO BOONOO NATIONAL PARK 4,377 HA HIGHLIGHTS GIBRALTAR-WASHPOOL WORLD HERITAGE WALK

This walk is an 80 km network of walking Camping fee level 3 tracks, linking the Gibraltar Range and Highlights From a lookout platform you Washpool national parks. This is rugged, can watch the river plunge 210 m at Boonoo mountainous country, high above the Boonoo Falls. In spring, the park's granite Clarence River Valley on the edge of the woodlands are ablaze with wildfl owers. .

Activities Cypress-pine camping area, These two national parks protect a rich by , suits car based variety of wildlife, including many rare and camping, including medium-sized caravans. endangered species. Dry eucalypt forests, Contact the offi ce to book the park cabin. set amidst a collection of ridges and The falls are an easy 300 m walk from granite tors, surround a mosaic of swamps. Boonoo Boonoo Falls picnic area, and Lush rainforests include the largest area of swimming in the river is popular in summer. coachwood trees in the world. Within these ancient pockets of wilderness, waterfalls Access 24 km north-east of Tenterfi eld off plummet from a lacework of streams and the Mt Lindesay (Woodenbong) Road on wild rivers. In spring and summer the partly unsealed roads. Vehicle entry fee is heathlands, swamps and open woodlands $7 per day. erupt in a colourful display of wildfl owers.

Tenterfi eld offi ce: 6736 4298 Despite the diffi cult terrain, the walk is not too strenuous. Travelling along roads, fi re 5 BRINDABELLA , one of the spectacular trails and walking tracks, most walkers waterfalls in this region, are located allow 5 days to do the 40 km main loop, NATIONAL PARK 18,472 HA in Guy Fawkes National Park the optional side walks add another 40 Access 190 km southwest of Sydney, km. Most walkers start and end the walk in 140km northeast of Canberra and 35 km Gibraltar Range National Park at Mulligans 0 Camping Area. Camping fee level 1 east of Goulburn via Bungonia township along Lookdown Road (10 km). Vehicle Highlights Stringybark, scribbly gum, box and entry fee $7 per day. BUNGOONA WALK peppermint forest, and subalpine snow gum Info line: 4844 4341 and mountain gum forests protect threatened The Bungoona Walk begins near the picnic Bungonia offi ce: 4844 4277 species, such as the powerful owl and area and leads to the eastern side of Bald corroboree frog, in the most northern of the Rock, where a marked track across the national parks. 7 BURNING MOUNTAIN Bald Rock saddle leads to the 1277m-high Activities Car-based camping is available at NATURE RESERVE 15 HA summit. The walk has signs along the way sites along the . that describe its geological, botanical and natural features. Facilities are provided at Flea Creek. Responsible 4WD and motorcycle users can Giving the appearance of a volcano, billowing HEART OF COUNTRY access the system of trails. smoke and ash actually results from a rare, WATERFALLS slow burning coal seam. Access 30 km west of Canberra off Brindabella Road (4WD only). Scone offi ce: 6540 2300 Some of the state's largest and most Nelson Bay offi ce: 4984 8200 spectacular waterfalls are in the Heart of Queanbeyan offi ce: 6229 7000 Country. The highest falls in Australia are the in the Oxley Wild Rivers 8 CATHEDRAL ROCK 6 BUNGONIA National Park. The single fall drops from the NATIONAL PARK 10,897 HA plateau above down to the Gorge, NATIONAL PARK AND STATE and it's a spectacular sight, particularly CONSERVATION AREA 4,055 HA after rain. The smaller Chandler Falls can be seen from the same vantage point, tumbling Camping Fee Level 2 into the Chandler River. Also in Oxley Wild 5 Rivers is the , which are actually Giant granite tors and sculptured boulders two dramatic drops into the Apsley Gorge. make striking subjects for photography Once you've seen the falls, there are some Camping fee level 3 along the walking tracks. lovely walking tracks to explore the rest of Highlights A network of walking tracks and Dorrigo Rainforest Centre: 6657 2309 this highly scenic area. And if you head out lookouts offers spectacular views to the to explore Dangars Gorge, you can enjoy the spectacular 120 m Dangars Falls and a and the Bungonia Slot 9 COCOPARRA Canyon, and the park is one of Australia's variety of dry eucalypt forests and grassy prime wild caving spots (experience and NATIONAL PARK 8,358 HA woodlands. equipment essential). Ebor Falls are in Guy Fawkes National Park, Activities There are opportunities for the two-tiered falls result from the Guy various types of adventure recreation, such Camping fee level 1 Fawkes River plunging off the tablelands. as bushwalking, canyoning, abseiling and Enjoy a picnic or barbecue as you take in Wattles, orchids and blue-tinged cypress caving. (BASE jumping prohibited). The park this spectacular sight. pines contrast against rich red rocks in has a well equipped car based camping one of the 's rare forest remnants. These and other waterfalls can be explored area (bookings required), including a camp After heavy winter rains the creeks fl ow, while touring the . kitchen, and gas BBQs are provided at waterfalls leap into life and the land is bright several of the park's visitor sites. with wildfl owers. For more information visit www.waterfallway.info

Griffi th offi ce: 6966 8100 Photography: S. Owen Fox / DECCW

Heart of Country 75 6\GQH\

The blissful colours of Brindabella National Park

Historic Brackens Cottage is available for Cycling in Coolah Tops National Park accommodation - bookings essential. Access 30 km east of Coolah, along Coolah Creek Road (unsealed sections). 4WD is necessary on some roads in the park, but camping areas at The Barracks and The Pines are 2WD accessible.

Mudgee offi ce: 6372 7199

12 GIBRALTAR RANGE NATIONAL PARK 25,407 HA 5

Camping fee levels 1, 2, 3 10 11 CONIMBLA COOLAH TOPS Highlights Deep valleys and giant granite NATIONAL PARK 7,590 HA NATIONAL PARK 13,265 HA boulders protect rainforest of World Heritage importance. Scenic creeks and cascades, swamps, heaths and woodlands can be 5 explored on more than 80 km of walking tracks. Camping fee level 1 Camping fee level 1 Activities Short walks lead to famous rock Yambira Mountain and its surrounding Highlights Waterfalls plunge from the plateau formations such as The Needles and Anvil forested ranges rise nearly 500 m above heights in this spectacular park. Giant grass Rock, or you can take the spectacular the plain, forming a 'bush island' amid the trees and tall, open forests with stands of huge fi ve-day World Heritage Walk. Waratahs Central West farmlands. Features rock snow gums shelter abundant wildlife, including and Christmas bells bloom October to ledges, waterfalls and wildfl owers. gliders, wallabies, eagles and rare owls. December, and drive-to lookouts give dramatic wilderness views. Mulligans and Forbes offi ce: 6851 4429 Activities The higher altitude offers cool walks Boundary Creek camping areas have visitor through the year and amazing views northward facilities and suit car-based camping (and towards the . There are plenty will take medium-sized caravans) or you can of opportunities for picnicking, as well as car- backpack camp throughout the park. based, caravan (very limited) and backpack camping at the western end of the park. Photography: TOP: S. Cohen / DECCW, BOTTOM: C. Pavich / DECCW

76 For more information visit www.nswnationalparks.com.au/heartofcountry Access 79 km east of Glen Innes, 104 km west The forest is a major stronghold for the Access 45 km north-east of Mudgee, 22 of Grafton off the . The 9 km spectacular glossy black-cockatoo and km south-west of Merriwa. Access is mainly park entry road from the highway to Mulligans contains the eastern-most population of the via unsealed dry-weather roads through is unsealed but suitable for all weather. Vehicle endangered malleefowl in Australia. Merriwa, Mudgee or Sandy Hollow. Camping entry fee $7 per day. area access is via Wollar on Mogo Road Ancient red gums line the (unsealed, dry weather only). Glen Innes offi ce: 6739 0700 beds and ironbark trees tower over the surrounding native pine thickets, box gum Mudgee offi ce: 6372 7199 13 GOOBANG fl ats and she-oak stands, which provide food for the rare glossy black cockatoos. NATIONAL PARK 42,080 HA 16 GUY FAWKES RIVER Activities Ride your mountain bike or walk NATIONAL PARK 93,085 HA along the old forestry trails that crisscross through the park. Enjoy a relaxing picnic by one of the many dams or natural waterholes 5 and sit quietly at dusk to watch the elusive Camping fee level 1 glossy black cockatoos as they come in for their evening drink. Go bird watching Camping fee level 2 Highlights There are two parts to any trip in spring and admire the colourful array of to . One is exploring wildfl owers that cover the forest fl oor. Highlights Secluded, rugged wilderness and the park itself; the other is the journey to and scenic river systems support large plant and from Goobang. Access Goonoo National Park and State animal populations in this park. Lookouts Conservation Area along either side of the and waterfalls are accessible to picnickers The wooded hillsides of reserves such as Mendooran Road, approximately 25 km and campers, and experienced walkers can this one are a major feature of the Central north of Dubbo. All roads are unsealed, delve into remote bush. West region surrounding Orange, Parkes suitable for 4WD vehicles only. Check and Forbes. Together with travelling stock conditions before you travel as many roads Activities The park offers long, hard hikes routes, they provide a landscape rich in become impassable after heavy rain. and backpack camping along the river. There scenic touring opportunities for motorists and are good views from lookouts on Misty Creek cyclists. This is one of a series of conservation Dubbo offi ce: 6841 7100 Road and Chaelundi Road, and you can have reserves in the Central West located across a picnic beside Ebor Falls, where the Guy the Lachlan Fold Belt, with a total area of Fawkes River plunges off the tablelands. 42,080 hectares - one of the largest areas of 15 GOULBURN RIVER There's car based camping and access natural vegetation in the region. NATIONAL PARK 70,649 HA to easy walking tracks at Chaelundi rest area (with accessible campsite and toilets), As Goobang adjoins agricultural holdings, as well as car based camping at historic managed for wool and crop production, Dalmorton near the Boyd River - ideal for it has a signifi cant role in conserving and Camping fee level 1 camper trailers and small caravans. protecting representative samples of central western fl ora and fauna such as glossy black Highlights The Goulburn River snakes its Access 60 km north-west of Dorrigo off the cockatoos and pockets of white box, yellow way from west to east between dramatic Armidale-Grafton road (includes unsealed box, Blakely's red gum grassy woodland. sandstone cliffs pocked with caves. Emus, roads). Take Sheep Station Creek Road redneck wallabies, goannas, platypuses (unsealed) at Dundurrabin or Marengo Road There are two camping areas, excellent and a rich selection of birdlife thrive among (mostly unsealed) from Hernani, on the bases to access walking tracks and trails eucalypt woodlands. Armidale-Grafton road. Access to Dalmorton to explore this diverse park or discover the Activities Areas of broad, sandy riverbank, from the Old Grafton-Glen Innes road (2WD scenic views of the surrounding agricultural unsealed). regions from the Caloma or Burrabadine often lined with river oaks, provide easy lookouts. walking access to rugged scenery. Picnic Dorrigo Rainforest Centre: 6657 2309 sites and car-based camping are available Activities Picnicking, walking and along the Goulburn River at Spring Gully backpack camping. Caloma Trig lookout (2WD) and Big River (4WD recommended). offers fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. There are camping and picnic areas at Wanda Wandong and Greenbah Creek camping areas.

Access Wanda Wandong campground - follow the road signs located north of Tomingley on the , onto Gundong Road. This road is almost fully paved to the national park entrance, and is suitable for 2WD vehicles towing caravans. Greenbah Creek Camping Area - follow the road signs located 8 km south of Peak Hill on the Newell Highway on to the unpaved Peak Hill-Baldry road.

Forbes offi ce: 6851 4429

14 GOONOO NATIONAL PARK AND STATE CONSERVATION AREA 62,778 HA 5s Highlights This extensive forest north- east of Dubbo protects over 35 threatened ecological communities, plants and animals, including koalas, eastern pygmy-possums, barking owls, turquoise parrots and many Guy Fawkes River other threatened woodland bird species. National Park features dramatic waterfalls Photography: G. Cole / DECCW

Heart of Country 77 6\GQH\

19 KWIAMBAL NATIONAL PARK 1,301 HA

Camping fee level 2

Highlights The Macintyre River rushes through sculpted granite gorges and plunge pools at Macintyre Falls before meeting the Severn River. The park protects regionally important cypress pine, box and ironbark woodlands.

Activities Camp or fi sh by the river or go for a bushwalk. Car-based and caravan camping are available by the Severn River at Lemon Tree Flat, where there are toilets, fi replaces and shelters. Call the offi ce to book a park holiday house.

Access 90 km north of . Go to Historic Building at Hill End Ashford village, then 18 km west on the Wallangra Road, then turn north for 18 km on Limestone Road (unsealed). In wet weather 17 HILL END 18 KOREELAH check road conditions in Ashford or phone HISTORIC SITE 134 HA NATIONAL PARK 5,270 HA the Tenterfi eld offi ce or local police. Tenterfi eld offi ce: 6736 4298 Camping fee level 2 20 LIVINGSTONE Camping fee levels 2, 3 Highlights Pockets of rainforest within the NATIONAL PARK AND STATE of Australia World CONSERVATION AREA 2,459 HA Highlights Hill End is a living village Heritage Area hug steep slopes below featuring intact goldrush streetscapes Acacia Plateau and Wilsons Peak. Keep and buildings dating back to the 1860s. an eye out for the regent bowerbird or the sw Preserved much as it was in its heyday, threatened brush-tailed rock-wallaby. Highlights The park is a relatively it's the perfect place to relive the early undisturbed area of habitat, within an goldmining days of 19th century NSW. Hill Activities There's a pleasant car based agricultural landscape, and home to End's landscape also played a signifi cant camping spot at the small grassy area threatened species like the squirrel glider role in Australian art, inspiring artists such as beside Koreelah Creek (unsealed road but and Yass daisy. There are distinctive Russell Drysdale, John Olsen, Donald Friend suitable for 2WD in dry weather). vegetation communities in the park, and Brett Whiteley. including cyprus pine on Pine Ridge Trail and Access 30 km west of Woodenbong scribbly gum, a red ironbark overstorey and Activities Take a self-guided tour of the on White Swamp Road (unsealed) off a grass tree understorey in Grass Tree Trail. town starting at the visitor centre and Summerland Way at Old Koreelah. museum. Bald Hill Tourist Mine is a popular Activities The network of management trails offi ce: 6632 0000 attraction and tours of historic Craigmoor provide opportunities for 4WD and trail bikes, House are available on the Australia Day mountain bikes and horse riders explore this and Easter long weekends. Car based and unique park. All vehicles must be registered caravan camping are available at Glendora and off trail/road driving is not permitted. No or in the village itself (with 14 powered sites visitor facilities currently exist in the park. for caravans - fees $10/$5 powered; $7/$4 Access 30 km south of Wagga Wagga and unpowered); camping areas have accessible 10 km east of Mangoplah. From the Wagga/ toilets and hot showers with handrails. Mangoplah road turn into O'Briens Creek Access 84 km north of Bathurst via Sofala Road, then into Wrigley's Road. 4WD access (25 km unsealed), 72 km via Hargraves (3 km only when dry, there is no 2WD access. unsealed), 77 km from Bathurst via Eglinton Tumut offi ce: 6947 7025 and Turondale, fully sealed.

Hill End Visitor Centre: 6337 8206 The spirit our great land lives in e

Photography: K. Gillett / DECCW bush - is truly is e Heart Country

78 For more information visit www.nswnationalparks.com.au/heartofcountry 21 MANN RIVER 23 MOUNT KAPUTAR is in the northern section of the park (not accessible from the main part of the park). NATURE RESERVE 7,129 HA NATIONAL PARK 51,384 HA It's an easy walk and has free gas barbecues, picnic tables and toilets. Waa Gorge offers a more diffi cult half-day walk. Camping fee level 2 Access The main part of the park is 50 km east of Narrabri on Mt Kaputar Road (head Camping fee level 1 Highlights Seventeen million years of erosion have sculpted the now-extinct south-east out of Narrabri on Maitland Popular for camping and gentle activity, the Nandewar Volcano, forming an island Street). The road has unsealed sections and reserve extends into a rugged and largely of wilderness rising 1200 m above the caravans are not permitted within the park untouched landscape, part of the Mann River surrounding plains. Rocky outcrops offer as the road is steep and narrow. Sawn Rocks Wilderness, which offers ideal solitude. breathtaking views while a diverse range of is 30 minutes from Narrabri on the Bingara vegetation from semi-arid woodland to wet Road (sealed road), and Waa Gorge is 50 Glen Innes offi ce: 6739 0700 sclerophyll forest and subalpine communities minutes from Narrabri along the Terry Hie Hie cling to the mountain slopes. The region is Road (unsealed sections). Access to Waa a haven for threatened bats, birds, and a Gorge is through several gates on private 22 MOUNT CANOBOLAS property and may be closed after rainfall. STATE CONSERVATION AREA 1,673 HA unique large pink slug, which often appears after rain. Narrabri offi ce: 6792 7300 Activities Walking tracks range from short easy strolls to more diffi cult day walks or Camping fee level 1 24 NANGAR overnight treks. Picnic at Dawsons Spring in NATIONAL PARK 9,196 HA Mt Canobolas is the highest point between the subalpine area, take an easy walk along the Blue Mountains and Perth, supporting the Nature Trail through tall gums and snow diverse vegetation and intriguing rock grass, or walk to the summit of Mt Kaputar. 5ws 0 formations. Explore its seven walking tracks. Car based camping is available at Dawsons Camping fee level 1 Spring or in the stringybark forest at Bark Bathurst offi ce: 6332 7640 Hut. Camping areas have free barbecues, The horseshoe-shaped red silt-stone hot showers, toilets and fi replaces (bring cliff-lines of the Nangar Murga range are a your own fi rewood). Three cabins are landmark of the Central West's rolling plains. available at Dawsons Spring (bookings The rocky slopes running down to Terrara required). Creek and rich forests form an important wildlife refuge. Sawn Rocks, Australia's best example of the geological formation known as organ-piping, Forbes offi ce: 6851 4429

Relaxing in Mann River National Park The magnifi cent Sawn Rock in Mount Kaputar National Park Photography: Matthews LEFT: P. / DECCW, RIGHT: N. Sullivan / Courtesy Tourism NSW

Heart of Country 79 6\GQH\

25 OXLEY WILD RIVERS owls, turquoise parrots and other threatened species. Sandstone Caves at NATIONAL PARK 145,000 HA Pilliga Nature Reserve Enjoy the many forest drives. Picnic facilities are available at the Salt Caves. The 5 w Sandstone Caves are a special place for the Gamilaraay people and a good place to experience Aboriginal culture. Directions to Camping fee levels 1, 2, 3 access the Sandstone Caves are required as the area is not sign posted (at the request Highlights A World Heritage park with of Aboriginal Elders). For directions, or to dramatic gorges and waterfalls, extensive fi nd out about the best way to experience wilderness, wild and scenic rivers, dry the Sandstone Caves call in to the Discovery rainforest and many rare plants and animals. centre at Baradine on an Aboriginal Wollomombi is the highest waterfall in NSW, Discovery guided tour. and the Bicentennial National Trail passes through the park. Access Located between Narrabri and on the Newell Highway, the Activities The park is large, with 10 separate Pilliga Forest has a complex system of tracks visitor areas. Gara Gorge is for day visitors and roads. It is recommended that advice is only. Wollomombi Gorge, Long Point, obtained before visiting the area. Many roads Dangars Gorge, Budds Mare, Apsley Falls in the area are unsealed and poorly marked. and Tia Falls are suitable for 2WD car- The Discovery Centre is open between 9am based camping. Riverside and Youdales and 5pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 5pm Hut suit camping and day visits but can weekends. only be reached in a 4WD vehicle, with no trailers allowed (bookings required, phone Pilliga Forest Discovery Centre, 50-58 6777 2755 or 6777 4700). East Kunderang Wellington Street Baradine: 6843 4011 Homestead has accommodation but no camping (bookings required, phone 6738 9100). Walks of varying grades and 27 TOOLOOM distances are available from each visitor NATIONAL PARK 4,380 HA area. There are excellent facilities for people with a disability, including paths to spectacular lookouts at Apsley, Dangars and Wollomombi falls. The Tooloom Scrub rainforest is World Heritage Area and includes important Access The park begins about 20 km east of areas of subtropical rainforest. There are 10 Armidale and Walcha, so there are two main species of kangaroos and wallabies including 29 TOWARRI access roads: the Waterfall Way and Oxley the threatened long-nosed potoroo. NATIONAL PARK 5,328 HA Highway. Other access roads are good but unsealed, with 4WD required in a few places. Kyogle offi ce: 6632 0000 Check a detailed map for other access points and seek further information before 28 TORRINGTON Camping fee level 3 visiting. STATE CONSERVATION AREA 30,052 HA Sandstone outcrops and scenic outlooks Armidale offi ce: 6738 9100 feature in a rugged landscape of former Walcha offi ce: 6777 4700 grazing properties harbouring rainforest, 5 snow gums and large grass tree stands. Camping fee level 2 The Washpool's picnic area has wheelchair 26 PILLIGA access and is a great place to bring the A geologically rich part of the tablelands with NATURE RESERVE, NATIONAL PARK, STATE family. CONSERVATION AREA, ABORIGINAL AREA beautiful scenery, several historic sites, and 236,873 HA an amazing variety of woodland plants and Scone offi ce: 6540 2300 animals. Fossickers seek topaz, emerald, Nelson Bay offi ce: 4984 8200 sapphire and quartz crystal here. From Nomads picnic area, a walk to Thunderbolts Highlights About 500,000 ha, the Pilliga Lookout offers fi ne 360° views. A popular 30 WARRABAH Forest is the largest remaining native forest walk takes you to a curious rock formation NATIONAL PARK 3,471 HA in Australia west of the Great Divide. Nearly called the Mystery Face. Ugly Corner Walk half the Pilliga Forest is managed by the highlights the area's creekside scenery. National Parks and Wildlife Service to protect this unique area including the habitat Tenterfi eld offi ce: 6736 4298 Camping fee levels 1, 2 of declining woodland bird species and a large koala population. See Highlights of the One of our few inland river parks, Warrabah Region for information on the spectacular provides an important native refuge, with great new Sculptures in the Scrub attraction. swimming, fi shing, canoeing and bushwalking among nature. Activities Follow the bird route through the Pilliga Forest to observe some of the 240 Armidale offi ce: 6738 9100 bird species recorded, including barking Photography: DECCW

80 For more information visit www.nswnationalparks.com.au/heartofcountry 31 WARRUMBUNGLE who tackle the Breadknife Grand High cultural activities guided by local Gamilaroi Tops Walk. Its rewards are well worth the people, bird and fl ora walks, spotlight walks NATIONAL PARK 23,198 HA effort of the steep climb to the base of the and a number of special children's activities. Breadknife, affording stunning views across the Warrumbungle ranges. Camping is available at Camp Blackman 5 (facilities include hot showers and powered A further short but steep distance beyond sites), Pincham (for backpack camping) the Breadknife is the Grand High Tops and Wambelong. Camp Walaay and the Camping fee levels 1, 2, 3 walk, offering more exceptional views and Woolshed (undercover camping) are group photographic opportunities. camping areas (bookings essential, phone Highlights Its combination of forested 6825 4364). There are wheelchair accessible ridges, rocky spires and domes, deep Gurianawa track is an easy access bitumen toilets at Camp Blackman, Canyon Picnic gorges and plenty of camping and visitor loop from the visitor centre and leads down area, Split Rock, the Woolshed and Visitor facilities make Warrumbungle one of the to Spirey Creek with views of the remnant Centre. state's most popular national parks. There's volcanoes and Siding Spring Observatory. such magnifi cent scenery, abundant wildlife Walking tracks vary in grade and length, On the second Saturday of November including kangaroos, wallabies, a healthy several are easy and well formed while visitors travel from all over the country for koala population, emus and many other others are steep and rough. Picnic areas the outdoor Crooked Mountain Concert, native fauna and fl ora. are dotted throughout the park, with electric featuring top line artists in the best natural barbeques at Canyon Picnic area. outdoor venue in Australia. The park's volcanic rock outcrops were formed over millions of years of wind Rock climbing (not permitted on the Access Warrumbungle National Park is and erosion and are remnants of active Breadknife) is popular on the rocky 35 km west of Coonabarabran on John volcanoes that once spewed lava across the outcrops, please register at the Visitor Renshaw Parkway, or 80 km north-east of area's sandstone fl oor. Centre. Discovery walks, talks and tours Gilgandra via Gumin Road. A daily fee of $7 are available in autumn, winter and spring for park use applies. Activities Warrumbungle offers a great school holidays and tours can be arranged variety of walking trails to suit the interests throughout the year for schools and groups. Warrumbungle Visitor Centre: 6825 4364 of all visitors, including adventurous souls The Discovery program includes Aboriginal Coonabarabran offi ce: 6842 1311

The ic ic breadknife is a rilli sight, dramatic and str g. This core an ancient volcano sits c mandi ly against a big sky

Enjoy scenic views of the Warrumbungles Photography: S. Wright / Courtesy Tourism NSW

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32 WASHPOOL Exploring the Yanga Woolshed 36 65,779 HA NATIONAL PARK 23,577 HA 5 Camping fee level 1 Camping fee levels 1, 2 Contains the largest remnant of box woodlands on the south-west slopes of Highlights The landscape of steep gorges, NSW and provides extensive views over the clear waters and World Heritage rainforest Riverina. protects some of the most varied and least disturbed forest in NSW, including the Tumut offi ce: 6947 7025 world's largest stand of coachwood trees. There are excellent wilderness walking 37 YANGA opportunities. NATIONAL PARK 76,000 HA Activities The Coombadjha Walk, an easy 1.4 km circuit with educational signs 5 and creek-side scenery, makes a good Activities Wander around the homestead introduction to the park. The 8.5 km and gardens, shearing shed, ram shed and Washpool Walk takes in the park's main other historic buildings. Watch the waterbirds Camping fee level 1 forest types. Camp at Coombadjha (a short and kangaroos, or the sun setting over huge walk from carpark) or Bellbird camping horizons. Car-based and caravan camping Highlights One the state's newest parks. areas, where there are toilets, shelters and are available near the homestead, or you Discover natural, pastoral and Aboriginal fi replaces. Bellbird suits car-based camping can stay in the cottage and men's quarters heritage. Picnic with your family, or unwind and small caravans. (bookings required, phone 6966 8100). for a week and enjoy a choice of settings, complemented by an array of new visitor Access 78 km east of Glen Innes and 93 Access 64 km north-west of Hillston off facilities. Enjoy the tranquil Murrumbidgee km west of Grafton off the Gwydir Highway. Mossgiel Road (unsealed and impassable River and massive red gums. This changing Includes a 3 km park entry road (unsealed; after rain). Vehicle entry fee is $7 per day. landscape provides habitat for an array of take care when wet). Vehicle entry fee is $7 fauna including endangered species and per day. Griffi th offi ce: 6966 8100 over 150 kinds of birds. Glen Innes offi ce: 6739 0700 Activities Take a walk abound the historic Tenterfi eld offi ce: 6736 4298 35 WOMBEYAN KARST CONSERVATION RESERVE Yanga Homestead and decorative garden. Discover more of Yanga's history in the 33 WEDDIN MOUNTAINS exhibition 'Yanga People-Lake-Country' NATIONAL PARK 8,361 HA housed in what was the cook's cottage adjacent to the homestead. Visit the century old Yanga Woolshed which now Camping fee level - special fees houses an interpretive display describing Camping fee level 1 historical aspects of Yanga Station and Highlights A spectacular drive from Sydney, the fl ood plain. The riverside picnic spot is The striking crescent of cliffs and ridged gullies Canberra or Wollongong will bring you to great for groups to shelter under the large is reputed to be a bushrangers' haunt - Ben Wombeyan Caves. The Wollondilly, Junction, covered barbeque area. There are two free Halls Cave is named for one of the area's most Korringa and Mulwaree Caves offer excellent campgrounds. Mamanga Campground is infamous rogues. year-round guided tours with a wide variety of on the bank of the and features. The Fig-tree Cave is a spectacular offers car based and caravan camping. The Forbes offi ce: 6851 4429 self-guided cave to experience at your leisure. Willows Campground is an open woodland Onsite accommodation includes a cottage, setting with car based camping and a 34 WILLANDRA family cabins and dormitories (bookings picnic area with electric barbecues great for NATIONAL PARK 19,386 HA essential). Wombeyan Caves also has a large birdwatchers. camping ground with full amenities, a kitchen and kiosk. Access 8 km south east of Balranald, turn off the Sturt Highway into the Yanga rest Activities Guided tours, camping, w, tennis area and travel a further 2 km to the Park and swimming. Wombeyan is an ideal place for Offi ce and Homestead (open 8:30 am to Camping fee level 2 wildlife spotting and photography. 4:30 pm daily). The woolshed is located 5 km south west of Balranald on the Windomal Highlights Willandra Station was once Access 180 km south of Sydney (via Road. The roads are unsealed and traffi cable famous for its wool, and these days it offers an Mittagong). Coming into Goulburn from the after light rainfall. Detailed campground insight into the pastoral history of the region. Sydney entrance, turn right at the fi rst set of information is available from the park offi ce. The homestead, surrounded by gardens lights, follow the road to Taralga, 10 km out of and overlooking peaceful Willandra Creek, Taralga you will see the sign to Wombeyan. Yanga offi ce: 03 5020 1764 Hay offi ce: 6990 8200 has been restored to its former glory. The Wombeyan Caves: 4843 5976 grasslands and black box-lined creek beds to the west of the homestead are home to kangaroos, emus and ground-nesting birds. Photography: B. Hlavica / DECCW

82 For more information visit www.nswnationalparks.com.au/heartofcountry THE TABLELANDS WAY GREAT PLACES TO STAY Spring cabins are available for hire. Self- From the Greater Blue Mountains World contained cabins comfortably sleep up Heritage Area, The Tablelands Way winds GIBRALTAR HOUSE to six, perfect for families and groups, down through the Heart of Country region, and they're a great winter getaway with showcasing its spectacular scenery This two bedroom cottage is a great views of misty snow gums and indoor and natural beauty. Attractions include base for exploring the World Heritage wood fi res. the Wombeyan Caves, where you can areas of Gibraltar Range and Washpool stop to explore this unique karst system, Activities in the park include National Parks. It has been extensively with a variety of camping and cabin bushwalking, abseiling, bird watching renovated to cater for those who want accommodation available. There's more and rock climbing, and enjoying some of to combine activity and adventure with exploring to do around Mudgee and Australia's beautiful fl ora and fauna. comfort and relaxation. Explore the Goulburn, including activities in the Goulburn River and Coolah Tops national parks. ancient rainforests of Washpool or climb Dawsons Spring Nature Trail gives a the many granite outcrops in Gibraltar great introduction to the park and can be Goulburn is the gateway to the Bungonia Range. Cyclists can enjoy the World combined with a walk to the summit of State Conservation Area, which has the Heritage Trail, stopping at high vantage Mt Kaputar - passing through varied sub deepest cave system in Australia and is points for spectacular views. On hot alpine vegetation to a scenic lookout. popular with adventurers - and everyone days, the clear waters of Surveyors and can enjoy spectacular views from the easier Little Dandahra Creeks will entice you. Staying in the cabins will also give an walks and lookouts. opportunity to view the night sky, and Your comfortable accommodation see why this region is a world centre of Along The Tablelands Way there are plenty features a modern kitchen and heating. astronomy. of opportunities to sample great food and wine, explore arts and crafts in heritage For more information and bookings The cabins may be booked up to six country towns, and, of course, enjoy the contact the Glen Innes offi ce on months ahead. 6739 0700. warm country hospitality that the Heart of For more information and bookings Country region is famous for. phone 6792 7300. WILLANDRA COTTAGE For more information visit www.tablelandsway.com.au Willandra Station in was once famous for its wool, WARRUMBUNGLE NATIONAL and these days it offers an insight into PARK VISITOR CENTRE the pastoral history of the region. The homestead and associated buildings, Coonabarabran: 6825 4364 surrounded by gardens and overlooking peaceful Willandra Creek, have been Located in the central part of the park, the restored to their former glory and are visitor centre highlights the outstanding now available for accommodation and values of the park and provides an functions. enhanced experience for visitors. The centre provides information on camping and Built in the 1940s, the fi bro cottage walking. The interpretive display shows the has two bedrooms, a lounge, kitchen, Aboriginal and European history of the area bathroom and gauzed-in verandah. It and the geology, fl ora and fauna of the park sleeps up to eight people in bunk beds. ABERCROMBIE KARST and surrounding area. All cooking and eating utensils are CONSERVATION AREA provided and there's air conditioning and CABINS Open daily 9 am to 4 pm (except Christmas, wood heating, an inside bathroom and Boxing and New Year's Day); there is a outside fl ushing toilet. This is a place for those who seek range of gifts, books, maps, basic camping adventure, with challenging walks, supplies and tea and coffee. For more information and bookings fi shing, and, of course, exploring the contact the Griffi th offi ce on caves on guided or self-guided tours. 6966 8100. At Grove Creek there are two basic standard cabins sleeping up to six, and BUSH CABINS AT MOUNT two deluxe cabins sleeping four. Arch KAPUTAR Cottage is a self-contained three- bedroom house sleeping up to eight, Mt Kaputar National Park is a place allowing you to stay longer and explore of glorious trees - eucalypts, wattles, even further. cypress - wilderness and spectacular open views. Abercrombie Caves are the most accessible in Australia. The Archway If you long to stay a while, the Dawsons Cave is part of a 1.4 km long self- guided tour, which brings the visitor to the southern end of the Archway along the creek and valley. There are other interesting caves to explore, such as the three huge chambers of King Solomon's Temple and the shawl formations of Red Shawl Chamber. There are night tours of the caves, lit to showcase spectacular arches and natural decoration.

Grove Creek also features deep water holes where rainbow trout can be fi shed from October to June.

For more information and bookings phone 6368 8603 hotography: LEFT: B. Hlavica / DECCW, MIDDLE: B. Hlavica / DECCW, RIGHT: Susan Wright / Courtesy Tourism NSW P

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