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ASTORIA: FOODIE RENAISSANCE & ULTIMATE GETAWAY

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Carefree Living FIND YOUR DREAM HOME

COAST BUCKET LIST ✓ BUILD A BOAT ✓ FISH THE JETTIES FALL 2018 ✓ HIKE A NEW TRAIL RESORT

Stay & Dine on the Ocean’s Edge! Large Indoor Pool & Sauna • Full Restaurant & Lounge Pet Friendly Rooms Available • Unique Gift Shop Weddings • Groups • Reunions A fAmily destinAtion! Book your memories todAy . . . adoberesort.com 1555 Hwy 101 N Yachats, OR 97498 800-522-3623 TABLE OF CONTENTS FALL 2018

48 HOURS IN ASTORIA— Spend a fun weekend FISHING THE ROCKS—Fishing off a jetty is 36in this Columbia River town that offers fascinating 62affordable, relatively easy, and doesn’t require a history along with great restaurants, breweries, and art boat. —Cheryl Wanner galleries. —Marie Sherlock

WOODCRAFTER’S PARADISE—At the Coos Bay ASTORIA’S RESTAURANT RENAISSANCE— 66Boatbuilding Center, you can build everything from 44 a wooden spoon to a red cedar canoe. —Tom Baake From Bosnian comfort food to innovative Northwest cuisine, you’ll find a multitude of options in Astoria’s TIDAL MARSHES— burgeoning restaurant 70 Salt marshes, scene. —Dwight Caswell important contributors to the coastal ecosystem, are wonderful places to observe CAREFREE COASTAL LIVING— If you’re looking birds and the ebb and flow of 48 for an investment that offers views and amenities, tides. —Gail Oberst but not a lot of upkeep, consider a property managed by a homeowners association. —Gail Oberst

THE MARKET, 54 THEN AND 62 Departments NOW—Alicia Spooner Coast Lines looks at the coastal real 6 estate market 30 years 8 Incoming Tide after she and her husband Galleries bought this magazine in 10 1988. —Alicia Spooner 12 Take a Hike Sitka Sedge 14 Marine Life Puget Sound Kind Crab ON THE COVER: .A beautiful home in Oceanside, right on the 16 Coastal Happenings beach. —Courtesy Pam Zeilinsky 76 Calendar of Events

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 3 Writers & Photographers

Larry Andreasen lives on the Oregon Adams, his photographs have been Gail Oberst and her family founded Coast and enjoys taking and sharing his exhibited nationally. the Oregon Beer Growler, a craft beer photos from around the state of Oregon. magazine based in Oregon. She is a free- Dennis Frates is an Oregon photogra- lance writer, editor, and publisher as well Tom Baake is a Coos Bay area writer and pher specializing in nature and scenics. as a fifth-generation Oregonian—her photographer who has published three His images have been published in parents were both born on the Oregon South Coast guidebooks available at dozens of national and regional maga- Coast. www.scod.com/guidebooks. zines, calendars, posters, cards, and books. Robert L. Potts has worked in aerial The late Scott Blackman’s photos have photography, wildlands fire and range been published in calendars, websites, Bonnie Henderson is the author of management, and various wildlife billboards, magazines, and the books Day Hiking: Oregon Coast and Strand: An research projects. His photos have Oregon Surfing: Central Coast and Oregon Odyssey of Pacific Ocean Debris. appeared in Oregon Coast, Birder’s World, Surfing: North Coast. Alan Huestis is a professional writer, Country Journal, and many more publi- Joanne Carroll-Huemoeller special- videographer, and photographer from cations. izes in marine life subjects of the Pacific Bend, Oregon. With deep Oregon roots, Marie Sherlock is a Portland, Oregon- Northwest. Her education and marine Alan has spent 25 years shooting all over based freelance writer and author science background led to the publica- the world but his favorite place is the whose work has appeared in Family tion of her work in books, magazines, Oregon Coast—wild, beautiful, mystical. Circle, Seattle’s Child, Money, Portland and calendars. It’s all there along the Coast. Parent, and other magazines. She’s had a lifelong love affair with the Oregon Dwight Caswell is a writer and pho- Larry Geddis has been a resident Coast and writes frequently about its tographer in Astoria. A graduate of of Oregon since 1979 and is a former virtues as a travel destination. Stanford and the University of Chicago, schoolteacher. He now pursues a career he has written extensively about the in outdoor photography and resides in Craig Tuttle is a Portland, Oregon-based north Oregon coast. A student of Ansel Gresham. professional scenic photographer, with four coffee table books and numerous Visit the coast throughout the year calendars to his credit. His first professional photo was published in Oregon Coast magazine in 1984. Cheryl Wanner is a freelance writer and Subscribe to Magazine photographer with a passion for writing YA novels. She lives in McMinnville, Oregon.

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4 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Stay • Play • Dine

on the beach in Lincoln City I 1-877-644-3234 I CHINOOKWINDSCASINO.COM COAST LINES

hirty years ago, Rob and I embarked on our adventure to the Oregon Coast, where we had just bought Oregon Coast magazine. Rob Tknew all about publishing a magazine because he had been associate publisher of a great magazine in Seattle called Pacific Northwest. I worked for a CPA firm in Bremerton as an accountant. When I arrived on scene, Russ and Nell Heggen, the previous owners, said, “You’re in charge of the editing. Don’t change anything.” I told them I knew nothing about editing a magazine and they said “It’s easy, just don’t change anything.” Nell showed me a rolling file cabinet and said, “Here are some stories people have sent in. Just go through and pick some out and send them to our editor.” After our editor, Vickie Nelson, was through with the story, she would send it over to the designer. She would put the galleys together and when it was done, I would take it to the printer.

It wasn’t very long before I wanted to change something. I wasn’t very happy with the covers and this new photographer, Scott Blackman, had started sending me some amazing photos. I finally got up the nerve and told Betsy, the designer, that I wanted to use one of Scott’s photos for the cover. Scott had a way of catching the abstract and he had done a photo of a kite that framed people standing on a beach. Betsy argued but I managed to get my way. That was the beginning of a great friendship between Scott and our readers. We lost that great friend this summer when Scott Blackman passed away at 80 years old. Scott was born and raised in Waldport. After serving in the military, he became a photographer—and a dedicated surfer— on the central coast. He started taking pictures of local surfers in the early 1960s and never stopped, eventually publishing, with his wife Sandy, two books on Oregon surfing. Besides the many wonderful images that have appeared in this magazine, Scott’s images were featured in national and international publications, including Der Spiegel (Germany’s equivalent of Life magazine), the New York Times Magazine and McGraw-Hill textbooks. One of Scott’s full-page photos appears in this issue on page 9.

Also in this issue, Marie Sherlock offers travel-savvy tips on spending a weekend in Astoria (page 36), while Dwight Caswell tempts us with his story on Astoria’s restaurant renaissance (page 44). Gail Oberst shares her love of low-maintenance, high-fun real estate—i.e., condos and townhouses (page 48)—and I wrote a story on how the coastal real estate market has waxed, waned, and waxed again in the 30 years since we bought this magazine (page 54). While researching my real estate article, I came across the publisher’s column that my husband Rob wrote in the October/November 1988 issue. It was so entertaining that we just had to share it with you (see facing page). Among other offerings in the pages ahead, you’ll find a story about tidal marshes, those magical places where saltwater meets fresh, and one about a woodworking center in Coos Bay where you can build everything from a simple wooden spoon to a functioning boat. It’s been great fun putting together this issue, and we hope you enjoy it as much as we did! Alicia Spooner

6 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com PUBLISHER Alicia Spooner [email protected]

EDITOR Rosemary Howe Camozzi [email protected]

MANAGING EDITOR Emily Kolkemo [email protected]

ART DIRECTOR Darcy Jeffs

AD DESIGNER zPaula Korte ADVERTISING SALES Long Beach, WA thru Tillamook County Jaci Spooner 541-999-7083 [email protected]

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PUBLICATION NOTICE Alicia Spooner POSTMASTER: send address changes to Oregon Coast magazine, c/o Stark Services, Box 16316, N Hollywood, CA, 91615. Fall 2018 ...... Volume 37, No 4 Oregon Coast (ISSN 0744-8317) is published quarterly by Oregon Coast Magazine. Periodicals postage paid at Florence, Oregon, and additional mailing offices. Subscriptions are $21.95 per year, $35.95 for 2 years. Published in October/November 1988 edition of Oregon Coast.

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 7 INCOMING TIDE from our readers

Neskowin secrets . . .

I would like to share what we believe is one of Oregon’s best kept secrets on the coast: Neskowin. We have lived in the Willamette Valley for 40 years and when we mention we have a little beach house on the coast in Neskowin many do not know where Neskowin is. Neskowin is in Tillamook County off Highway 101 at milepost 98. The town has a population of about 168 to 200 full-time residents. It is divided into a few gated residential areas; however, there is a day-use park that is very accessible to the public and a path leads to the beach. You can find many homes that offer vacation rentals or the Neskowin Resort offers overnight stays that can fit into everyone’s budget. One unforgettable landmark visitors will find is the 2,000-year-old Sitka spruce forest that has been dubbed the “Ghost Forest.” Legend has it that the trees in this forest were 150 to 200 feet high and 200 years old when it was suddenly buried in mud from a tsunami and/or earth- quake. The forest lay hidden under beach sands until it was uncovered by a series of storms in 1997-98. When the tide is out, the 100 or so stumps of the Ghost Forest can be seen. The beach is ever-changing with Proposal Rock and its commanding

view. When the tide is out, one can GEDDIS LARRY climb up the rock for a breathtaking Morning sun burns off the fog and a minus low tide reveals the Ghost Forest and Proposal view of the Pacific Ocean. If you are Rock at Neskowin Beach. more of a beachcomber, you might get lucky and find a whole sand dollar or September from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. with Oregon Coast welcomes your comments and sugges- two. It is common to see a playful seal many items for sale. And there is a golf tions. We reserve the right to edit them for clarity and rolling in the surf and enjoying the day. course at the ready! space. If you prefer we not publish your letter, please let us know. Please include a phone number or e-mail During the Fourth of July, a small The next time you are thinking of address with all correspondence in case we need to parade is hosted along with sandcastle venturing to the Oregon coast, we suggest contact you. ([email protected]; P.O. Box contests and beach play. A fireworks you stop at Neskowin Beach for a great 119, Florence, OR 97439) display can be viewed on the beach. day at one of Oregon’s best-kept secrets. Neskowin also offers a Farmer’s Market Deb Darr every Saturday from May through Falls City, Ore.

8 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com This photo is a fine examble of Blackman’s artistic eye. —Scott Blackman COASTAL ART GALLERIES

above, from left: Yaquina Art Association Gallery, Newport–Sylvia Hosie. Siuslaw Public Library 1460 9th St., Florence DragonFire Gallery, Cannon Beach–Michael Orwick. 541-997-3132; siuslawlibrary.org Tillamook County Pioneer Museum, Tillamook–Elaine Norberg. Manley Art Center & Gallery, Brookings–K. Connelly. SEP 1–30 Oregon Dunes DAR Constitution Point.B Studio, Port Orford–Shannon Weber. Week, collections; Group Show of Artists from Backstreet Gallery, mixed media. OCT 6 DemARTS (10 a.m.‒4:30 p.m.). DragonFire Gallery Chessman Gallery, Lincoln City Cultural OCT 1–31 Nativity Festival; Robert Hefty, acrylics. 123 S Hemlock St., Cannon Beach Center NOV 1–30 Hang It All exhibit, mixed media. 503-436-1533; dragonfiregallery.com 540 NE Hwy 101, Lincoln City NOV 2–4 Group show entitled Imagine, works 541-994-9994; lincolncity-culturalcenter.org Artist Loft Gallery inspired by the lyrics of John Lennon; oils, THROUGH SEP 10 Katia Kyte, oils and Joanne 367 Anderson Ave., Coos Bay acrylics, glass, ceramics, metal, encaustic, Daschel, glass and stone mosaic. 541-756-4088; TheArtistLoftGallery.com watercolor, and mixed media. SEP 14–OCT 8 Casbah: 30th anniversary exhibit, NOV Sharron Kay Womack, oils. Northwest By Northwest Gallery visual art as well as music, poetry and theater Coos Art Museum 232 N Spruce, Cannon Beach (Sep 14 reception, 5‒7 p.m.). 235 Anderson Ave., Coos Bay 503-436-0741; nwbynwgallery.com OCT 12–NOV 5 Sound of Nature, Sound of Art, 541-267-3901; coosart.org SEP Georgia Gerber, collector’s selection of collaboration of art, music and ecology, a THROUGH SEP 29 Maritime Art Exhibition, bronze sculpture; Ivan McLean, contemporary celebration of Cascade Head Scenic Research painting and sculpture; Jeffrey Hull, featured stainless-steel sculptures; Angelita Surmon, Area and the beauty of the Oregon Coast (Oct maritime artist, watercolors; Margaret Godfrey, paintings and kilm formed glass; Christopher 12 reception, 5‒7 p.m.). Legends of Northwest Rivers, watercolors, Burkett, art film photographs. NOV 9–DEC 10 Sandscapes and Second Chances, acrylic, and mixed media; Maritime works from SEP 10 Informal talk on art by curator Joyce Jennifer Norman’s assembled pieces and Permanent Collection, paintings and sculptures. Lincoln (3‒5 p.m.). jewelry are created from recycled items and OCT 6 Coos Art Museum’s Annual Fundraiser, OCT Hazel Schlesinger, oils; Cristina Acosta, Dorcas Holzapfel’s sandscapes are made with dinner and silent auction (5‒8 p.m.). paintings of birds and panels with trees. sand, acrylic paint and found objects (Nov 9 OCT 19–DEC 8 CAM Biennial non-juried exhi- reception, 5‒7 p.m.). NOV 2–4 Stormy Weather Arts Festival bition of Oregon paintings and sculptures. Receptions (Friday artist Georgia Gerber and Yaquina Art Association Gallery Coos History Museum process of bronze casting, 5‒7 p.m.; Saturday 789 NW Beach Dr. (Nye Beach turnaround), Newport 1210 North Front St., Coos Bay reception with artists 6‒8 p.m.). 541-265-5133; yaquinaart.org 541-756-6320; cooshistory.org SEP 1–14 Latimer Quilt and Textile Center JerriLynn Woolley, photographs; Jeff THROUGH SEP 16 Coast Guard Art Program 2105 Wilson River Loop Rd., Tillamook Bertuleit, acrylic and watercolor paintings. (COGAP), fine art paintings. 503-842-8622; latimerquiltandtextile.com SEP 8–21 Diana Perez, recycled art, jewelry, acrylic paintings. SEP 15–20 John Williams, Art by the Sea Gallery and Studio SEP–OCT Timberline Lodge, quilts. photographs and wood turning; Alana 145 Fillmore Ave. SE, Bandon 541-347-5355; artbytheseagalleryandstudio.com NOV–DEC Cathy Erickson, Baltimore album quilts. Williams, watercolor paintings and tole SEP Tillamook County Pioneer Museum painting. SEP 22–OCT 5 Sisters B.J. Trotter and Kathleen Morey Bailey, oil painting (Sept 1 2106 Second St., Tillamook Rosemary Sumner, photography and acrylic reception, 3‒5 p.m.). 503-842-4553; tcpm.org paintings. SEP 29–OCT 12 Catherine Hingson, OCT Muriel Scheidt, oil and acrylic paintings AUG 30–NOV 25 Elaine Norberg After and Before acrylic paintings; Diana Perez, acrylic (Oct 6 reception, 2‒4 p.m.). exhibit, oil paintings. paintings, jewelry, recycled art. OCT 13–26 NOV Renee Manford, People’s Choice winner of Ginger Raia, mixed media; Graece Gabriel, 2017 Miniature and Small Works Exhibition, Wild Rain Gallery photographs. OCT 19–NOV 2 Catherine Hingson, oil paintings (Nov 3 reception, 2‒4 p.m.). 17050 Wilson River Hwy, Tillamook acrylic paintings and gift cards. OCT 27–NOV 503-842-6405; wildraingallery.com 9 Calisse Browne, enameled jewelry and Point.B Studio THROUGH NOV Gerald Sticka, carved NW native stone jewelry; Sylvia Hosie, photographs. NOV 351 6th St., Port Orford 541-366-2036; pointbstudio.net style piece; Seward Whitfield, paintings and 2D 3– 16 Jack Powell, wood art. NOV 10–23 Marsha works; 40-45 artists’ works. Christian, stained glass; JoAnn Campbell, THROUGH NOV 1 Lifelines exhibit by JW Cline, drawings. Artists Co-op Gallery acrylic and watercolor paintings. SEP 1–NOV 1 Lifelines II exhibit by Gerd Jansen, 620 NE Hwy 101, Lincoln City Backstreet Gallery 541-557-8000; pacificartco-op.com 1421 Bay St., Florence generative art; Shannon Weber, mixed media; THROUGH OCT 1 Exhibit of more than two dozen 541-997-8980; backstreetgallery.org Holger Lippmann; generative art. artists’ work in exhibit, Summertime...and the SEP Kathleen Wenzel, beadwork; Kristin Manley Art Center & Gallery Livin’ is Easy. Anderson, fused glass. 433 Oak St., Brookings 541-469-1807; pelicanbayartsassociation.org OCT–NOV Exhibit of more than two dozen artists’ OCT Karen Nichols, collage, drawing, work, Storytelling; including gourd art by Sheryl photographs, paintings; Geraldine McMahan, AUG 28–SEP 30 Heat Wave, 30 fiber artists. Jones; and silver metal jewelry by Steve and pottery, paper boxes. OCT 2–NOV 4 Christine Behrens, mixed media. Calisse Browne (Oct 12 reception 5‒7 p.m.). NOV John Leasure, oils; Claudia Ignatieff, oils. NOV 6–DEC 2 The Collector Show, mixed media. n

10 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL ART GALLERIES Klep’s Illustrations THROUGH 2018, ASTORIA THIS FALL, THE Columbia River Maritime Museum will feature the works of Art Klep in the Marine Art Gallery inside the museum. Artist, author, and museum founder Art Klep is most well-known as a commercial artist and illustrator. His works covered a wide range of subjects, including maritime and space exploration illustrations that appeared in publications such as Newsweek, Colliers, Life, Look, Women’s Home Companion, and many others from 1927 to 1956, when much of his well-known artwork was produced. Later, Klep helped found the Columbia

COURTESY COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM MARITIME RIVER COLUMBIA COURTESY River Maritime Museum. The new exhibit runs Celebrate Route 6 through December 2018. (503- 325-2323; crmm.org) SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER, TILLAMOOK LAST SPRING, HIGHWAYS 6 and 131 Chamber of Commerce to feature a year- were designated as the “Trees to Seas” long series of art events, called Celebrate Oregon Scenic Byway. The route meanders Route 6. through the Tillamook Forest from Banks The extravaganza kicks off with the to downtown Tillamook, where Highway Festival of Arts during Octoberfest, from 131 takes off to Cape Meares. To com- noon to 6 p.m. September 8, in the Second memorate the designation, the Tillamook Street Plaza in downtown Tillamook. The County Pioneer Museum is partnering festival will feature artwork inspired or in with the Tillamook Forest Center, Art the theme of the scenic byway route. PAC CITY FLORENCE OF COURTESY Accelerated Gallery, and the Tillamook From September 13 to October 20, Art Art Expansion Accelerated Gallery will host a juried FLORENCE photography exhibit featuring art- PUBLIC ART PROJECTS are making waves ists’ interpretation of the Highway 6 in Florence with several new installations theme. The gallery will host a second at locations throughout town. The new art juried exhibit, this time focusing on is thanks to the work of the City of Florence prints, drawings, and paintings with Public Art Committee (PAC), established in the same theme, from October 25 to 2015 and tasked with the development of a November 17. public art program and policy for Florence. On October 6, the Tillamook For- Last spring, several new pieces were est Center presents Celebrate Route installed, including local artist Pancho Clark’s 6, Fall Sketch Crawl, from 10 a.m. to Copper Leaf Tree, installed in Old Town; a 4 p.m. Artists, photographers, poets, metal horse sculpture at the Florence Senior and musicians of all ages are wel- Center created from recycled oil drums by come to bring their own art supplies, Kenyan artists; Transformation, a sculpture

COURTESY COURTESY WORREL DENNIS lunch, and creativity and become made from recycled railroad track by British inspired by the fall colors in the sur- Columbia artist Paul Reimer, placed in Old rounding forest. Town; and two more pieces on Bay Street, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Rolf Klep at his desk In December, the Tillamook Pioneer West Coast Overlook and Sitting Wave Part II, in the Columbia River museum with one of Museum will exhibit a show of historic pho- by Sherwood, Oregon, artist Jesse Swickard. his iconic cutaways behind him of the S.S. tos of routes 6 and 131. A map of the art is available online (bit. United States (1963); Copper Leaf Tree instal- For more information, go to the Cel- ly/ArtPassport). Visit the Florence Public Arts lation in Florence with Pancho Clark; Paint- ebrate Route 6 Facebook page or contact Committee website for more information. ing of the Wilson River by Dennis Worrel. Art Accelerated Gallery. (503-809-9172) (ci.florence.or.us/bc-pac/public-art-program) www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 11 TAKE A HIKE Story by Bonnie Henderson Hiking Sitka Sedge

n 2015, Oregon State Parks acquired a Ilarge property on the southern edge of Sand Lake, between Cape Lookout and Cape Kiwanda on the Tillamook coast. Known as Beltz Farm for the family that owned it, the property included one mile of beachfront. Dikes had been built to keep out seawater and enable farming. The dike curving around the southern shore of Sand Lake is now the entry point to Sitka Sedge State Natural Area, the Oregon Coast’s newest state park. Sand Lake is really an estuary—a shallow bay where saltwater and freshwater mingle with ebb and flow of the tides. Most bays are essentially wide river mouths, but Sand Lake is formed by the sand bars at its mouth and fed only by a few small streams and the seawater that fills it and flushes it twice a day. Other than small county and state parks on Whalen Island, an upland in the middle of the estuary, Sand Lake is virtually undeveloped. Parts of the shoreline have

been logged and farmed in the past, but HENDERSON BONNIE no more: thanks to public and private efforts, it is now considered the best-con- of wild nature (mingled with the distant more than 120 feet elevation gain, and served estuary in the state, a place where buzzing of off-highway vehicles roaming one you can enjoy year-round, as differ- native plants and animals can thrive and the dunes to the north). ent species of birds migrate through and humans can enjoy the sights and sounds Its official opening was last June, but the vegetation changes with the seasons. neighbors and visitors in the know have Study the park map for longer and Viewpoint long been walking the site’s dikes and shorter hike options. Sand Lake Estuary View Loop Estuary informal sand trails through the dunes. From the stoplight in the middle of

Footbridge The park’s 4-mile trail system now links Pacific City, turn west, following signs to those dikes and sand trails with new Three Capes Loop. Cross the river and SITKA SEDGE footpaths through the dense coastal turn north (becomes Sandlake Road). STATE NATURAL AREA forest of Sitka spruce and shore pine. Drive 4.8 miles total from Pacific City to Beltz Dike Sandlake Rd At certain times of year, you may see the gravel parking area for Sitka Sedge Elk Knoll Day Use T Trailhead Area a variety of waterfowl in the estuary— State Natural Area, on the west side Kinnikinnick R even otters and elk, if you’re very quiet of the road. Here you’ll find concrete Woods Loop e ne ke Creek (and lucky). This 2.5-mile loop walk picnic tables and benches made from takes you along the estuary’s edge and redwood salvaged from an old water tank Sandlake Rd Beltz Creek through the forest to the mouth of Sand on Cape Lookout. There’s even a bike To Paci c City Lake and back. It’s an easy walk with not station with a tire pump and bike locks,

12 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com TAKE A HIKE COURTESY OPRD COURTESY should cyclists riding down the Oregon Coast wish to take a break. From the parking area, pick up the trail leading briefly north before turning west and following the dike along the water’s edge. The first half-mile is accessible compacted gravel; a viewing platform was to be installed here over the summer. Continue another 0.3 to the first trail junction; bear right for 0.1 mile and then straight over the boardwalk at the next junction. You’ll leave the estuary and wind into the forest, hiking up a couple of switchbacks, until you reach another junction at about 1 mile; turn right onto this sand trail. The trail ends just 0.2 miles farther at a beach near the mouth of the estuary. From here you can follow the shore to your left to reach the ocean beach.

To loop back, return to the main HENDERSON BONNIE trail and walk south on the trail through the dunes 0.5 mile to a four-way junction; turn left here, then left again, winding through the forest and emerging at the salt marsh at the estuary’s edge. Bear right at the next two trail junctions to get back on the compacted gravel path on the dike and return to the parking area.

Bonnie Henderson is the author of three books including Day Hiking: Oregon Coast and co-author of the 2018 edition of Best Hikes with Kids: Oregon. COURTESY OPRD COURTESY www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 13 MARINE LIFE Story and photos by Joanne Carroll-Huemoeller Puget Sound King Crab

Not only does this crab exist in Puget Sound, but it is also found all up and down the West Coast.

hen I first heard Wmention of the Puget Sound king crab, I had no idea what it looked like. What I imagined was a close relative of the Alaskan king crab. With a carapace (shell) that can reach 11 inches and a leg span of up to 5 feet, the Alaskan crab is more than worthy of the name. Keeping that in mind, think of my surprise when I finally saw a picture of this exquisite crusta- common—a similar carapace size. At strate is covered with small strawberry cean! There was absolutely no family 10 to 12 inches, the Puget Sound anemones, orange cup corals, pink and resemblance! king crab’s carapace rivals that of its red coralline algae, colorful sponges, and Not only that, but “Puget Sound” namesake. What it lacks is the 5-foot encrusting hydrocorals. It is a watery king crab is a bit of a misnomer. Yes, leg span to go with it. Nonetheless, a world painted in amazing hues and this this crab exists in Puget Sound, but it carapace of that size qualifies it as one crab fits right in, literally. An occa- is also found all up and down the West of the largest types of crab on our coast, sional barnacle or two that settle on the Coast from Sitka, Alaska, to Monterey making it also worthy of the designa- crab’s carapace only enhance the effect, Bay in California. Throughout its range, tion king crab. creating the perfect camouflage. it prefers strong currents and rocky The attribute that makes the Puget Camouflage comes in handy substrates at depths from the nearshore Sound king crab so remarkable is its but is not the crab’s only means of subtidal area down to 450 feet. During appearance. Juveniles are a spectacular, defense. This crab is able to tuck in a very low tide, a very lucky tidepooler bright orange and sport conspicu- its short, portly legs. They fit together might just find a juvenile hiding under a ous cone-shaped projections on their like puzzle pieces up against its rock. Adults are usually found in deeper carapace. As they mature, the exoskel- carapace. The end result is a firmly water but tend to move up much nearer eton becomes a mix of bumps, cones, closed box-like figure that is often the surface in late winter and spring for tubercles, and spines colored in splotches referred to as a mini-tank. breeding purposes. of red, orange, blue, purple, and yellow. Puget Sound king crab are Despite being two distinct species, All that remarkable color is not just carnivores that have a taste for echi- the Alaskan king crab and the Puget for show—it has a purpose. The irregular noderms. Sea urchins and sea stars Sound king crab do have one thing in and bumpy Pacific coast’s rocky sub- are prized prey items, however, bar-

14 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com MARINE LIFE

FACING PAGE: The Puget Sound king crab’s left front claw’s strength is crushing while the right claw is more suitable for cutting.

TOP LEFT: It’s unique appearance provides this crab with the perfect camouflage.

TOP BELOW LEFT: When threatened, four pair of stocky legs tuck in against the carapace to create a formidable “box.”

Puget Sound king crab are not protected per se in Oregon, according to Scott Groth, of the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. Instead, they fall into the “other invertebrates” category of Oregon’s sport harvest, which allows for 10 per day. Groth says he’s seen them around the reefs near Port Orford, but he’s only ever heard of a few being harvested, all by divers who mounted them. “No one has ever harvested them com- mercially,” he says. “There is no fishery because they are naturally rare, no one’s developed a market, and there’s no effec- tive way to fish them.” I would like to suggest that should you come across one of these beautiful crab in the wild, take a moment to admire it. Then resist all temptation and leave it right where you found it. n

True or Not True? nacles and even sea anemones are also originating from the waters just off Did you know that there are crab consumed. Lacking a knife and fork, the Seattle shoreline. Now I know and then there are “true crab?” The specialized claws facilitate the crab’s better. As far as I can tell, there is no most obvious difference between ability to dine on its catch. The left fishery for this crab, commercial or rec- the two groups is the number of claw’s strength is crushing while the reational. legs. True crab have five pairs of right claw is more suitable for cutting. What I did find while research- legs and include the Dungeness Let’s go back to when I first learned ing this species were two different crab, red rock crab, kelp crab, dec- of this creature. As I said, I made an and notably unofficial advisories orator crab, and many others. The immediate association between the not to remove these crab from their Puget Sound king crab is not a two king crabs—Alaskan and Puget habitats. The idea was that they are true crab, sporting only four pair Sound. That association led to images relatively rare throughout their range of legs, the last pair being hidden of platters brimming with fresh, foot- and slow to mature, therefore deserving beneath its carapace. long, Puget Sound king crab legs a degree of protection. www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 15 COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Homage to the Cranberry OCTOBER 13–14, LONG BEACH PENINSULA A CELEBRATION OF local harvest including all things cranberry kicks off the Long Beach Peninsula’s fall season. Foods, crafters, artists, and more will showcase the area’s rich heritage during this popular fair. The Columbian Pacific Heritage Museum in Ilwaco will host a variety of local artists offering hand- made items such as pottery, jewelry, paintings, cranberry vine baskets, and baked goods. Demonstrations by the Peninsula Rug Hookers, the Peninsula Quilt Guild, and blacksmith Gary Lewis will take place throughout the day both Saturday and Sunday. Fair entrance includes full admission to the museum’s exhibitions and the 1889 narrow gauge passenger car VISITLONGBEACHPENINSULA.COM Nahcotta. The Cranberry Trolley will run between the museum and the Pacific Coast Cranberry Research foundation Wings Over Willapa ROBYN UNRUH SEPTEMBER 28–30, LONG BEACH PENINSULA SPREAD YOUR WINGS at a new festival on the Long Beach Peninsula! The Wings Over Willapa festival, September 28–30, celebrates Willapa National Wildlife Refuge with a weekend full of classes, workshops, guided tours, and more. Whether you’re an experienced birder or just getting acquainted with the great outdoors, nature lovers of all ages are sure to find plenty to do. Presentations will be held at various locations, including the Columbia-Pacific Heritage Museum, the Cranberry Museum, and the Salt Hotel & Pub. Opportunities include everything from learning about shorebirds to nature photography to craft workshops such as making sea glass windows, feather raku pottery, or baskets from rope salvaged from local beaches. Tours include a wildlife tracking and birding adventure at the Leadbetter unit of the refuge; a one-hour bird/nature hike at Cape Disappointment State Park; a naturalist-led trip aboard from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday and the 50-foot Four Seasons charter boat 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sunday. Self-guided over the Columbia River bar and out tours of cranberry harvesting will be to sea; and a kayaking trip around east underway at the Pacific Coast Cranberry Sand Island, the westernmost island in Research Foundation. the Columbia River and the site of the Collectible Cranberrian Fair buttons world’s largest Caspian tern colony and are $5 each and cover admission to all the world’s largest double-crested cor- events at the Columbia Pacific Heritage morant colony. Museum. Admission to the Cranberry Visit friendsofwillaparefuge.org/ Museum is free. (360-642-3446; colum- wings-over-willapa to register for the biapacificheritagemuseum.org) festival and events. (360-484-3482) FOSTER DREW

16 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Festival of Lights NOVEMBER 23, ASTORIA IN SCANDINAVIA, “SANTA Lucia” is celebrated in December, but in Astoria, this winter festival of lights is celebrated the day after Thanksgiving to tie in with the opening of the Christmas season. Everyone is invited to leave the Thanksgiving left- overs and shopping and come listen to music, sing some Christmas carols, mingle with friends, and dance. The Santa Lucia Ceremony takes place at the Astoria High School Auditorium and the dancing and refreshments are in the Commons. The runner-up for the Miss Scandinavia contest from the previous June is the Santa Lucia Bride and wears a crown of candles on her head. The new Scandinavian Midsummer Festival Court for the upcoming year is introduced and afterwards there are refreshments and public dancing. Santa Lucia Bride 2018 is Miss Sweden Mada- lyn Hellberg from Camas, Washington. Madalyn attended her first festival as a baby and was Junior Miss Sweden in 2008. Admission is $1, or $5 per family with all admission funds going to the Scandina- vian Festival Scholarship Fund. (astoriascanfest.com) COURTESY SCANFEST COURTESY

Games of Yore SEPTEMBER 8–9, ASTORIA LOOKING TO GET the children outside and away from the television or computer games but don’t want to spend a lot of money? Bring the family to the Flavel House Museum lawn for Old Fashioned Fun & Games on Saturday or Sunday, September 8 and 9, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and enjoy free old-fashioned fun and games such as badminton and croquet. The kids will also enjoy testing their skills with the COURTESY ASTORIA-WARRENTON CHAMBER ASTORIA-WARRENTON COURTESY hoop and stick or ball and cup games. There will be contests and prizes, sto- Great Columbia Crossing rytelling, music, several different craft OCTOBER 14, ASTORIA demonstrations, and other hands-on EXPERIENCE THE GLORY of the Columbia River as you trek across the Astoria-Megler activities for both kids and parents Bridge, the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. This 10k event offers a to enjoy. Enjoy butter and ice cream scenic adventure on a fairly flat road with one steep incline to the peak of the bridge. Par- demonstrations, apple pressing, free ticipants can run, jog, walk, skip, stroll, etc. Go at whatever pace works for you! horse-and-wagon rides, and blacksmith This is a fun event for the entire family, enjoyed by both amateurs and skilled athletes. demonstrations. So, come enjoy a corn- Children ages 8 to 17 must register as a participant. Children younger than 8 will also be dog and lemonade while the kids learn allowed to participate, but do not need to pre-register or pay the registration fee. Every how children from the Victorian period participant also receives five Clam Bucks—wooden tokens worth $1 each—with their reg- entertained themselves. (503-325-2203; istration packet. The tokens can be spent at many local breweries and restaurants. www.cumtux.org) The weather in October can be fickle. Plan for the worst and hope for the best, but know that the race will still take place, rain or shine. (503-325-6311; greatcolumbiacrossing.com) www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 17 COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Wheels and Waves SEPTEMBER 6–9, SEASIDE TAKE A WALK through yesterday with one of the coast’s premier car shows, Seaside Wheels and Waves. This popular event, which takes place in downtown Seaside, is a celebration of show-quality vehicles from 1974 and older. The general public is invited to view cars on Friday and Saturday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from BUREAU VISITORS SEASIDE COURTESY 7 a.m. to noon, with the new Slow Drag competition taking place 6 from noon–7 p.m., on September 7 from 7 a.m.–7 p.m., and on Sunday morning at 9 a.m. September 8 from 7 a.m.–11 a.m. If you want to join the exhibitors, online preregistration for Broadway to the Turnaround is closed to automobiles and your vehicle will be available till September 5. You can register open for foot traffic only for a portion of this event. (503-717-1914; your vehicle in person at the Convention Center on September seasidedowntown.com)

Architectural Delights Tickets are $35. When evening comes, put on SEPTEMBER 7–9, CANNON BEACH some dancing shoes for a 1920s jazz-themed con- FOR MORE THAN a decade the Cannon Beach cert with the Honeyville Rascals, held from 6–8 History Center & Museum has welcomed visitors to p.m. Saturday at the Cannon Beach History Center tour the town’s vintage homes, historic inns, and & Museum. A costume competition and raffle will architectural wonders. take place at 7 p.m., and you’ll also find beer, wine, The Cottage & Garden Tour takes place the week- and tasty treats. This event is included in the cost end of September 7. The fun starts on Friday night of your tour ticket, but if you don’t make it to the with a concert and reception at the Cannon Beach Home & Garden Tour, tickets will be available at History Center & Museum. The R.J. Marx Quartet fea- the door. tures a world-class frontline of saxophone and guitar The final event of the weekend is an English- jazz compositions from the 1940s to the ’70s, as well CENTER HISTORY BEACH CANNON COURTESY style garden tea, with delectable treats prepared by as an array of traditional favorites. Tickets to this event are $15. Dough Dough Bakery, at the Tolovana Inn on Sunday, September 9. A Start Saturday off with a lecture on the history of Cannon Beach presentation will be given by gardening professional Lucy Hardiman from Oregon author Bill Sullivan at the Tolovana Inn, followed by of Perennial Partners. Tickets are $20. a luncheon prepared by the Dough Dough Bakery. Luncheon and Weekend packages are $75 and include all events, and tickets lecture tickets are $25. are also available for individual events. Tickets may be purchased The tour of homes goes from noon until 5 p.m. on Saturday. on the website or by phone. (503-436-9301; cbhistory.org)

Stormy Weather Arts and-coming musicians in the intimate NOVEMBER 2–4, CANNON BEACH setting of Cannon Beach’s Coaster The- THE STORMY WEATHER Arts Festival, atre Playhouse. November 2–4, is one of Cannon Beach’s most Saturday’s fashion show highlights popular events. Enjoy a weekend full of art apparel and accessories from local and events, musical performances, artist demon- national designers that you can find strations, and gallery receptions. Events will in local shops. Sunday’s Brews, Blues & also include the Friday evening Arts Benefit GROUP MEDIA XPLORER E COURTESY Barbecues gives guests the opportunity Cocktail and Dessert Party, Saturday’s “Dancing in the Rain” Fashion to sample local beers while enjoying live blues and a barbecue Show, and Sunday’s Brews, Blues & Barbecues. Throughout the week- lunch from a local chef. end, galleries will present special events showcasing the artists they On Friday evening and all day Saturday, visitors can wander represent, with many of the artists on hand to present their latest from gallery to gallery enjoying a variety of receptions and art- works, conduct demonstrations, or discuss their work. ist demonstrations and catch free live music performances with Over recent years, the Stormy Weather Arts Festival has grown regional musicians at indoor and outdoor venues throughout to include a spotlight concert showcasing accomplished or up- town. (503-436-2623; cannonbeach.org)

18 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Coast to Table Food Festival Location: Under the Event Tent in Garibaldi on Tillamook Bay

LOCAL SEAFOOD • WINE • BEER • CHEESE • OYSTER SHOOTERS Sept. 29, 2018 FOOD TRUCKS • COOKING DEMOS • MAIN STAGE EVENTS

Special festival events and news: cravethecoast.org/FB

Get Your Tickets Today! $30 Adults $20 Age 20 and under cravethecoast.org/tickets Free Age 6 and under

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TILLAMOOK CHAMBER OF PELICAN BREWING COMPANY COMMERCE TILLAMOOK COUNTRY SMOKER TRAVEL OREGON CITY OF BAY CITY VISIT TILLAMOOK COAST PACIFIC SEAFOOD PORT OF GARIBALDI TILLAMOOK CREAMERY

Crave the Coast SEPTEMBER 29, GARIBALDI THE NORTH COAST is sporting a brand new Food Trail that focuses on the culinary delights found in Cannon Beach, the Til- lamook Coast, and Lincoln City (northcoastfood- trail.com), and this year marks the debut of a new event— Crave the Moon River Farm Coast. The celebration takes Recess food truck place under the event tent in Garibaldi on September 29, from noon–6 p.m., and showcases the delicious and diverse bounty of the North Coast. You’ll find cheese, beer, fresh seafood, spirits, meats, and farmers-market produce from more than 40 regional food and beverage makers. Enjoy tastings, pairings, and cooking demos, plus a catered dinner train featuring delicacies from coastal farms, fishers, producers, and foragers. Enjoy an oyster shuck-and-slurp, a fish taco cook-off, beer and cheese pairings, and more fun PHOTOS COURTESY TILLAMOOK COAST TILLAMOOK COURTESY PHOTOS throughout the day! (503- 842-2672; cravethecoast.org) Barnacle Bill’s www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 19 COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Stay at Tillamook County Campgrounds Fashion for the everyday woman Oregon’s Vacation Destination Barview Jetty County Campground 503-322-3522 Kilchis River County Campground 34950 Brooten Rd 503-842-6694 Pacific City Trask River County Campground 503-483-1254 503-842-4559 Whalen Island County Sun 12– 5 Campground 503-965-6085 Mon 10–5 Webb & Woods County Thurs–Sat 10–5 Campgrounds 503-965-5001 luckybeachboutique.com reservations.co.tillamook.or.us

Sample over 100 products! Wine • Brie • Cheese Jams • Syrups • Dips Fall Hours: Mon-Sun 8am-6pm 2001 BLUE HERON DRIVE • TILLAMOOK, OR 800.275.0639 • BLUEHERONOREGON.COM

Stories Told in Cloth OCTOBER 12–13, BAY CITY “MEMORIES AT THE Beach” is the theme of THEATRE the Tillamook County Quilt Guild’s quilt show, ARTS  MUSIC COMMUNITY October 12–13 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The show will be in its original location at the City Hall Community Building, in Bay City. Admission is $5, free for children 12 and under. The guild was founded by master quil- ter Audrey Peters of Bay City. For their first group project, experienced quilters and beginners made a Bicentennial quilt depicting scenes of Tillamook County. The quilt

was exhibited at the Pioneer Museum for GUILD QUILT COUNTY TILLAMOOK COURTESY PHOTOS BAY CITY ARTS CENTER years and will again share its story at the Detail of Quilts by Tillamook County Quilt P.O. Box 3124 5680 A Street quilt show. Guild. 1976, Bay City, Oregon 97107 For this show, theme quilts, family quilts, antique quilts, and first quilts will join quilts (503) 377-9620 made in local quilt shop classes, quilts from local guilds, and independent quilters. As [email protected] always, there will be a hands-on opportunity to help make an American Heroes quilt. www.baycityartscenter.org There will be door prizes every half hour, raffle quilts, and some very special quilts for sale. Pick up entry forms at the Latimer Quilt and Textile Center in Tillamook, at local quilt shops, or call the center. Entries are due September 15. (503-440-1829; latimerquiltandtex- Print Media Courtesy of TLT Promotional Grant Funds tile.com)

20 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Lodging by the Sea! RVE • EXHI SE BIT RE • The Terimore P IN

• T T NATIO E C R N R E E A P L T R N L L I E O T C IPM

Spectacular Kitchens & Bay & Ocean Views Fireplaces Available Dog Friendly Wireless Internet POLICE U N MUSEUM E R T D O R A IN THE HEART OF 3 CAPES LOOP C , O I E KA H C R WAY BEAC E ST R 5105 Crab Ave. West • Netarts, Oregon 97143 • www.terimoremotel.com AN PP D • T • A 503-842-4623 • Email: [email protected] RESPEC

BRINGING POLICE HISTORY TO LIFE Tillamook State Forest Events Mysterious mushrooms OCTOBER 14, AN AMAZING VARIETY of fungi thrive Rotating Displays – International Police Uniforms & Equipment in Tillamook State Forest. Join State Park Youth Interactive Area • Gift Shop Ranger Dane Osis for a program on these Open 9:30 am to 4:30 pm Daily May–Sept • Mon–Fri Oct–April wild forest mushrooms, October 14 at 11 212 N Hwy 101 • PO Box 165 a.m. You will view freshly picked fungi, learn Rockaway Beach, OR 97136 www.internationalpolicemuseum.org to identify edible and poisonous varieties, Print funding by and discover the important roles that fungi Tillamook County Tourism www.tillamookcoast.com play in forest health. Following the talk, you Release, where you can discover the can take an optional short hike with Dane to incredible lifecycle of Pacific salmon and search for and identify mushrooms. Feel free release wild fry that were raised in the to bring in samples of mushrooms for iden- visitor center fish tank. ( tification. The workshop, which costs $15, is Holiday wreath making for beginning mushroom hunters, ages 12 NOVEMBER 23–25, through adult. Registration is required, and BRING THE BEAUTY of the forest home The Fish Peddler the deadline is October 10. by creating a winter wreath made from AT PAciFic OysTer natural materials, November 23–25 at 5150 Oyster Drive 11:30 a.m. Younger children will be able to Bay City, OR 97107 make a cone craft and other small items. 503-377-2323 All materials and supplies are included Full Production Facility in the cost of the class, which is $17 for a wreath and $7 for a cone craft. Registration • Fish Market is required by November 21. Please call • Restaurant 866-930-4646 to submit payment for regis- • Oyster Bar Rain Fest tration. (tillamookforestcenter.com) OPen dAily NOVEMBER 17–18, Don’t let the Now Serving Beer & Wine November rain get you down! As the flora WiFi available and fauna of the Tillamook State Forest know, rain should be celebrated. Join a naturalist for a guided hike through the temperate rainforest, create rain-related crafts, or embark on a splashy-sploshy scavenger hunt. Rain Fest also features the popular Salmon www.pacseafood.com www.pacseafood.com www.pacseafood.com www.pacseafood.com PHOTOS COURTESY TILLAMOOK FOREST CENTER FOREST TILLAMOOK COURTESY PHOTOS www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 21 COASTAL HAPPENINGS Sun, Wind, and Kites OCTOBER 6–7, LINCOLN CITY THE ONLY THING better than a kite on the beach is lots of kites on the beach, and that’s what you’ll find at Lincoln City’s Fall Kite Festival, held at the

COURTESY CODY CHA CODY COURTESY D River Wayside from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on October Reggae, Pop, or Country? 6–7. The weekend festival includes kite flying demonstrations by experts, free kids kite- SEPTEMBER 14–15; OCTOBER 5–6; NOVEMBER 2–3, LINCOLN CITY making, running of the bols, and some of the HOW ABOUT ALL three? Chinook Winds most colorful kites in the world. The running Casino brings reggae masters UB-40, coun- UB40 of the bols, offered at 12:30 p.m. both days, try duo Dan & Shay, and the amazing Paula offers bragging rights to those who can run Abdul to their concert hall this fall. the fastest into the wind while harnessed to The UB40 concerts, September 14–15, a doughnut-shaped kite. From 1–4 p.m. the feature three founding members of the featured fliers perform, and between 2 and Birmingham reggae troupe that topped 4:30 p.m. each day, there is a kids kite parade the UK singles chart and sold 70 million on the beach. And all day long, big show records. With the redoubtable Astro lend- kites adorn Lincoln City skies! (541-996-1274; ing strong vocal support and Mickey’s oregoncoast.org/Lincoln-city-fall-kite-festival) keyboards to the fore in a new band that includes a three-piece horn section, their lithe but potent sound should delight fans Chowder & Blues old and new. LINCOLN CITY, SEPTEMBER 8 Country musicians Dan & Shay per- IF YOU LOVE chowder and you love beer, form at Chinook Winds October 5–6. Their you won’t want to miss the Lincoln City layered voices—Shay brings a gospel Chowder & Brewfest, which takes place scape that is contemporary country music. and R&B flavor, while Dan is influenced September 8 from noon–6 p.m. Taste Paula Abdul performs November 2–3. by the harmonies of Fleetwood Mac and chowders from a variety of restaurants, A groundbreaking choreographer, dancer, The Eagles—give each of their songs a with a variety of interpretations and find songwriter, performer, designer, actor, dynamic feel that stretches boundaries and your favorite. Sample beer and cider from and businesswoman, Abdul is a two-time creates its own unique place in the sound- craft breweries (wine will also be available) Emmy Award winner, Grammy Award win- and enjoy live music throughout the event. Paula Abdul ner, American Music Award winner, and Family-friendly games such as Giant Jenga, multi-platinum recording artist. Her work corn hole, hoola hop, beanbag toss, and as choreographer includes seven MTV more will give you a chance to showcase Awards for her work with Janet Jackson some of your best talents. Food vendors and she has also choreographed for Duran will have additional items for sale during Duran, ZZ top, The Jackson Family, George the festival. Michael, Luther Vandross, INXS, Heart, and Live music features Zuhg, offering Prince. funk, reggae, jazz, jam, and rock n’roll, and All shows are at 8 p.m. Reserve your blues master Ty Curtis, who’s been winning seats by phone at 888-MAIN ACT (888-624- awards for his vocals and musicianship for 6228), in person at the Chinook Winds box the past 10 years. (541-994-3070; chowder- PHOTOS COURTESY CHINOOK WINDS CASINO WINDS CHINOOK COURTESY PHOTOS office, or online. (chinookwindscasino.com) brewfest.com)

22 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS Jazz for the Ages Grace Kelly OCTOBER 5–7, NEWPORT A REMARKABLE WEEKEND of jazz arrives in Newport, October 5–7, for the 15th annual Oregon Coast Jazz Party. The theme of Chocolates • Ice Cream • Fresh Fudge Sweet Taffy • Caramel Corn this year’s celebration, “Honoring Scones • Toffee • Espresso Women in Jazz,” is one that jazz Cookies • Brownies • Fun Gifts listeners and aficionados won’t want to miss. The all-star lineup includes KELLY GRACE COURTESY quartets led by jazz violinist Regina Carter and alto sax sensation Grace Kelly. Other per-  Show us this ad  formers included guitarist Mimi Fox’s San Francisco String Trio, Kerry Politzer’s Bossa PDX, TAKE 10% OFF EVERYTHING IN trumpeter Tanya Darby, vocalist Sinne Eeg, pianist and vocalist Yve Evans, flutist Holly Hof- THE STORE * * $10 MIN PURCHASE. CANNOT BE mann, and pianists Helen Sung and Dena DeRose. The South Eugene High School Dorians COMBINED WITH ANY OTHER OFFER. vocal jazz ensemble will also perform, with Yve Evans at the piano. Besides many unforgettable concerts from renowned jazz stars, attendees can expect nightcap performances and educational events scheduled throughout the weekend. (541- 265-2787; oregoncoastjazzparty.org) Order online ➤ www.NyeBeachSweets.com Located in the Historic Nye Beach District of Newport with easy beach access While you’re here check out the numerous 30 Years of Symphony shops in our neighborhood 541-574-1963 SEPTEMBER 29–MAY 2019, 314 NW Coast Street • Newport NEWPORT FOR THREE DECADES, the Newport

Symphony Orchestra (NSO) has brought oregon Honoring Women in Jazz orchestra music and melodic voices to audi- coast ences on the central coast. Led by music jazzparty director Adam Flatt, the 2018-19 season is celebrates jammed with all-star symphony virtuosos 15 Years and singers performing in unforgettable concerts, September through May, 2019. The stellar season begins with an “Ode to october 5-7 Joy” on September 29. The 30th anniversary Newport neWport, or concert will feature the Newport Symphony Symphony, regina carterOc Qt. uartet6-8, 201 7 playing Bloch’s Baal Shem and Beethoven’s soloist Anton grace Kelly QuartetOn the cOast Belov in newpOrt, O r Symphony no. 9 with 170 voices from the tanya Darby Willamette Master Chorus, the Central Coast BELOV ANTON COURTESY Sinne eeg Chorale, the Corvallis Repertory Singers, and soloists Janice Johnson, Les Green, Anton yve evanS Belov, and Erica Brookhyser. mimi Fox’S San FranciSco String trio On November 2–4, audiences will be treated to “Bella Italia,” Italian-themed pieces by Kerry politzer’S boSSa pDx Schubert, Ravel, Hertel, Hovhaness, and Mendelssohn with featured performances by Helen Sung trumpet and piccolo trumpeter Katherine Evans. NSO musicians and Porthole Players will SoutH eugene HigH ScHool DorianS perform together in Menotti’s opera, Amahl and the Night Visitors, on December 8 and 9. Jazz cHoir ... anD more [Regina Carter Photo by Christopher Druikker] Other concerts include “Spring Burst Forth” on March 23 and 24 with the NSO and Amy Yang on piano. The NSO season closes with a “Fairy Tale Finish” on May 18 and 19 with oregoncoastjazzparty.org twitter.com/ facebook.com/ a special world premiere of a new work by Mark Fish. OregonJazz OregonCoastJazz

To purchase tickets, contact the Newport Performing Arts Center box office, or go to Presented By With the support of underwriters North Coast Brewing OregOn cOast and Rev. Carol Stubbs Smith, Columbia Bank, Newport the NSO website. (541-265-2787; newportsymphony.org) cOuncil for the arts News-Times, the 2018 Jazz Club, and Jazz Hotels. www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 23 COASTAL HAPPENINGS COURTESY COURTESY ELIZABETH WOCASEK Crafty Coast NOVEMBER 3–4 & NOV 30–DEC 2, YACHATS YACHATS MIGHT WELL be a craft-lovers mecca, with two craft festivals held just in time to prepare for the holidays. Visi- tors and residents alike can get a jump ANAG ND M ED Your Home at the Coast! D A on holiday shopping at the 21st annual NE W L Y O Harvest & Holidays Arts & Crafts Festival OCALL 26 YEARS held November 3–4 inside the Yachats Commons at 441 Hwy 101. The juried fes- Many Ocean Front and Pet Friendly Homes to Choose From. tival attracts nearly 70 of the best artisans We Have Homes with Hot Tubs. from the Pacific Northwest offering hand- made crafts, fine art, and artisan foods in a 1-800-800-1915 www.ocean-odyssey.com family-friendly environment. Free tastings of gourmet food, chances to meet artisans, Welcome to Our Little Bit of Paradise! and craft demonstrations make this an interactive buying experience. Admission and parking are free. (541-547-4664, 541- 547-4738; [email protected]) Offering a select collection From November 30 to December 2, of vacation rentals in and around the village the Yachats Ladies Club Christmas Bazaar Yachats’s original & Saturday Luncheon returns with hand- vacation rental company... crafted items by Ladies Club members and established 1985 the much-beloved Saturday Luncheon with famous Ladies Club pie and bever- PO Box 44 • 230 Aqua Vista Loop Brochure: 1-888-288-5077 (corner of Hwy 101) Yachats, OR 97498 www.97498.com Email: [email protected] ages. Handcrafted items include knit items, aprons, quilts, afghans, home decor, table Quilts Tell a Tale runners, potholders, casserole carriers, bake sale table, gift baskets, and much more. The OCTOBER 27–28, YACHATS bazaar takes place on Friday from noon to 6 FOR THE THIRD year, the International One of the quilts on display this year p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. Challenge Art Quilt Show will be on dis- will be from Kathy Kerler, whose quilt is to 3 p.m. The Saturday luncheon is from 11 play in Yachats, with the theme of Fairy modeled after the Ojibwe nation creation a.m. to 2 p.m. (541-547-3205) Tales this year. Held October 27–28 at the story of “How the Rainbow was Made.” Yachats Commons Building, the show is a “In this story,” says Kerler of the tale that ing. Two bluebirds arrive on the scene and traveling exhibit of 90 pieces, 30 from each inspired her quilt, “Nanabozho notices all begin chasing each other back and forth. represented country of the U.S., Japan, and of the flowers in the field are white. He As they do so, their wings dip into the South Korea. Art quilts by local artists will decides to paint them one of six colors: red, paint pots, creating a rainbow in the sky.” also be displayed and some may be avail- orange, yellow, green, blue, and purple. He (541-563-6210; pollyplumb.org/event/quilt- able for sale. brings his paint pots out and begins paint- show-fairy-tales)

24 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

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Celtic Fest NOVEMBER 9–11, YACHATS THE SWEET SOUNDS of Celtic song, dance, and revelry ring out progressive and energetic Celtic band The Founding, the trio Open for the annual Yachats Celtic Festival, held November 9–11 at the the Door for Three, and storyteller/multi-instrumentalist Kevin Carr. Yachats Commons and other venues throughout town. Music and Some activities are free to the public; others require tickets. merriment fills festival days and nights with concerts, jam sessions, Tickets may be purchased online and a full schedule of events is dances, storytelling, informative talks and workshops, whisky tast- available on the festival website. (541-563-6210; yachatscelticmusic- ings, a Celtic-inspired market, and the ever-popular sunset “Piper festival.org) on the Point.” This year offers a spectacular lineup of musicians, including multi-instrumentalist duo Lisa Lynne and Aryeh Frankfurter, who have sold well over a million albums combined with music made with instru- ments such as the Celtic harp, Swedish nyckelharpa, Ukrainian bandura, bou- zouki, and the cittern. Also playing at the festival will be New England Fiddle cham- The Founding pion Caitlin Warbelow, the THE COURTESY FOUNDING www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 25 COASTAL HAPPENINGS Wing Tanks Land OLD TOWN INN FLORENCE IT JUST GOT a lot nd Half Off Your 2 Night easier to find the Good Any Night Oct. 15 to Dec. 15, 2018 Use offer code OC1018 Oregon Coast Military Regular rates. Call ahead. Some restrictions. Museum, thanks to the installation of two vintage military aviation wing tanks outside the entrance to the museum in Flor- COURTESY OREGON COAST MILITARY MUSEUM MILITARY COAST OREGON COURTESY ence. The two 15-foot tall tanks, from a 1970’s era F4 fighter, ing Camp Adair, Fort Stevens, and the were donated by Florence resident Fred United States Coast Guard. Calosso. The tanks are intended to make “We wanted the tanks to be not just Steps to Old Town and River the museum more visible to motorists trav- a way for visitors to find us, but also to Minutes to Beaches, Dunes, Golf eling Kingwood Street. be a tribute to military heritage, specifi- cally Oregon and the coast,” says Sapp. In Micro/Fridges, Free Wi-Fi Founding Board member and past president Tim Sapp spearheaded the addition to Calosso, community partners Book now: 800-808-1115 project, incorporating several collabora- included West Coast Auto Body and Flor- 170 N. Highway 101 tions within the community in addition ence Welding & Machine Shop. Florence, Oregon to Calosso’s donation. Artist Judy Murphy The Oregon Coast Military Museum is www.old-town-inn.com was responsible for the graphic artwork on located at 2145 Kingwood Street, and is the wing tanks, which depicts Oregon and open five days a week, Wednesday through coastal scenes such as the Heceta Light Sunday, from noon to 4 p.m. (541-902-5160; House, as well as military heritage, includ- oregoncoastmilitarymuseum.com)

River House Inn Book Bonanza Amy Stewart SEPTEMBER 28–29, FLORENCE Half Off Your 2nd Night Sundays–Thursdays Oct. 15 to Dec. 15, 2018 IT’S TIME TO get stocked up on books to read over the Use offer code OC1018 winter—written by local authors, of course—at the 8th Regular rates. Call ahead. Some restrictions. annual Florence Festival of Books. The festival takes place September 29 at the Florence Events Center between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Approximately 75 Northwest authors will be in attendance, representing genres such as fiction, nonfiction, memoir, children’s books, fantasy, mystery, young adult, poetry, and more. There are about 10 publishers par-

ticipating as well. No admission is charged to attend. BOOKS OF FESTIVAL FLORENCE COURTESY The keynote speaker for this year’s festival is Amy Stewart, New York Times best-selling On the River in Historic Old Town author of nine books. Among her fiction is Girl Waits with Gun, based on the true story of one Book Direct & Save 888-824-2741 of America’s first female deputy sheriffs. Her popular nonfiction titles include The Drunken www.riverhouseflorence.com • Steps to Great Dining & Shopping Botanist, Wicked Plants, and Flower Confidential. Amy will give her talk on Friday, September • Minutes to Beaches, Dunes, & Golf 28, at 7 p.m. Tickets are just $8 in advance or $10 at the door. Buy your ticket early, as this • Spa Rooms • Free Wi-Fi event may sell out. • Continental Breakfast Also on Friday at the Events Center is the panel discussion from 3 to 4:30 p.m., featuring • Micros & Fridges prominent Northwest authors and editors. The discussion is free but come early to get a 1202 Bay Street ◆ Florence, Oregon good seat. For more information, check the FFOB website (florencefestivalofbooks.org), or Certificate of Excellence to buy tickets to hear Amy Stewart, contact the Florence Events Center (541-997-1994).

26 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Come Enjoy These Events! Sept 7-9 Rods ’N Rhodies 11th Annual Car Show & Florence Communitywide Garage Sale OREGON’S COASTAL PLAYGROUND! Oct 5-7 Wine & Chowder Trail, Glass Float Giveaway Nov 23-25 Holiday Festival Always Something Happening

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Fall into Florence Fun SEPTEMBER 7–9 & OCTOBER 5–7, he ighThouse nn FLORENCE T L i FLORENCE IS WELL known for its sum- HISTORIC HOTEL mertime fun, with sand dunes galore, miles Toll Free 1-866-997-3221 of uncrowded beaches, and celebratory 3 stories of unique, quaint guest rooms events. After summer you’d think Florence at very competitive rates! had partied itself out, but not so according Free gourmet coffee and WiFi to Bettina Hanni- Wine & Chowder www.lighthouseinn-florence.com gan, executive Trail 155 Hwy 101 • Florence, OR director for the 1 block to historic Old Town and waterfront Florence Area Chamber of Com- merce. “Labor Day Weekend is not the end of summer around here,” says Hannigan. September 7–9 is the annual Rods ‘n Rhodies Weekend and the Community-wide Garage Sale. Bar- gain hunters will find three days of deals at nearly 100 retail and private locations around town for the Garage Sale. “The fun continues into October with Florence’s famous Wine & Chowder Trail and Great Glass Float Giveaway, October 5–7,” says Hannigan. “You can stroll Historic Old Town Florence and sample outstanding Oregon wines on Saturday and the Open 11am 1297 Bay St most amazing clam chowders on Sunday.” LUNCH & DINNER Closed Tues Florence Participants at the weekend-long event 541-997-1133  www.bridgewaterfishhouse.com can also search local shops and galleries for more than a dozen beautiful hidden- in-plain-sight glass floats or register to win one. (541-997-3128; FlorenceChamber.com)

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 27 COASTAL HAPPENINGS Next to the ocean in Oregon Authors Day OCTOBER 13, COOS BAY Winchester Bay! ASPIRING AUTHORS AND bookophiles are invited to the 3rd annual Oregon BEACHES | FISHING | CAMPING | MOORAGE | LAUNCH RAMPS | FOOD | MORE! Authors Day, held on October 13 from 1 to 4 p.m. at the Coos History Museum. The event is meant to celebrate local authors and the craft of PHOTOS COURTESY DIO-MORALES COURTESY PHOTOS writing with author readings and writing workshops. Call (541) 271-3407 This year, Dio Morales will offer a ‘The best kept secret on the Oregon Coast!’ workshop on memoir writing, as well as speak about WWW.SALMONHARBORMARINA.COM her latest book, Hom- ing Instincts. Charm Trail Morales SOUTH COAST earned her A TRIP TONext the coast to isn’t the same ocean without buying in MFA from some sort of keepsake—something to remember Oregon State special days spent at theWinchester beach, museums, Bay! University and fishing/crabbing, or any other of the myriad her writing BEACHES | FISHING | CAMPING | MOORAGE | LAUNCH RAMPS | FOOD | MORE! of activities one can find along Oregon’s shores. has appeared One great way to find the perfect remembrance in journals item is to follow the Oregon Coast Charm Trail, with such as the Los Angeles Review of Books, three dozen different charms available at 34 different Oregon Humanities Magazine, Colorado locations from Reedsport to Bandon. Review, and has twice made the “Notables” Those who want to follow the trail can pick up or download a charm trail map list for Best American Essays. and purchase a bracelet ($5) to carry the charms at one of three sites: in Reedsport at A workshop on Science Fiction/Fan- the Umpqua Discovery Center, at the Coos Bay Visitor Information Center, and at the tasy writing will also be offered. The day Charleston Marine Life Center. culminates with readings and awards from Charms are $2 each at participating venues, and there is a wide variety of fun the Oregon Authors Day creative writing designs. For example, in Winchester Bay a salmon charm can be obtained from the competition. Salmon Harbor Marina. In Reedsport, visitors can get a bear and/or bearpaw charm at Cost to attend either workshop is $10 the Umpqua Discovery Center, an art palette charm at the Mindpower Gallery, and a for adults and $8 per student; please con- ships’ steering wheel charm at The Waterfront Restaurant. tact the museum to preregister. Author More information is available on the Oregon Coast Charm Trail Facebook page readings, which will take place from 2 to 4 (Callfacebook.com/ORcoastCharmTrail (541) 271), Twitter-3407 @OregonCharm , or on the Charm Trail web- p.m., are free and open to the public. (541- site.‘The (info4hr.com/charmtrail) best kept secret on the Oregon Coast!’ 756-6320; cooshistory.org) WWW.SALMONHARBORMARINA.COM 28 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

There’s more than one way to win on the Southern Oregon Coast COURTESY BAY AREA FUN FESTIVAL FUN AREA BAY COURTESY 2 Fun Festivals SEPTEMBER 8–9 & 15–16, COOS BAY AREA SUMMER FESTIVALS ARE winding down, but two community festivals are gearing up in September. First up is the annual celebration of Native American and Coquille tribal culture at the Mill-Luck Over 700 Vegas-Style Slots, Table Games, Salmon Festival, September 8–9, outside 541.756.8800 203 Hotel Rooms, Full Hook-Up RV Park, the Mill Casino in North Bend. Visitors can THEMILLCASINO.COM all on a beautiful waterfront bay. enjoy a traditional salmon bake, native drumming, dancers, canoe races, cultural booths and displays, hands-on activities like beading and weaving, and native arts and crafts vendors at the family-friendly event. (themillcasino.com/entertainment) The next weekend, September 15–16, the Bay Area Fun Festival rolls into the Coos Bay area with a smorgasbord of activities, including a car show and cruise, rock and gem show, quilt show, a parade, an outdoor market, and abundant lineup of live music all weekend long. The festival coincides with the Prefontaine Memorial Run, which attracts top- notch runners from all across the nation. Festival-goers can also peruse from a variety of vendors, arts and crafts, and yummy food options along with a wine and beer garden. (bayareafunfestival.com) COURTESY MILL CASINO MILL COURTESY www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 29 COASTAL HAPPENINGS Film Fest OCTOBER 5–7, COOS BAY FALL BRINGS ON the season of film festivals, and the Oregon Coast is quickly becom- ing known for quality and innovative film experiences. On October 5–7, the Oregon Coast Film Festival will take place at the Egyptian Theatre in Coos Bay. In the last few years, the Egyptian Theatre has completely modernized and upgraded its projection system, with 4K capabilities that deliver crisp and colorful viewing experiences. Downtown Coos Bay September 15 & 16 To be considered for inclusion in the festival, entries must have a connec- tion to the people, culture, environment, landscape, and artists of Oregon, the Prefontaine Memorial Run! Pacific Northwest, and the western oceans. Screen- ings shown at the festival include short films, photog- Parade Street Fair raphy collections, student Show ’N Shine Food Vendors films, and feature films. Cruz the Coos Arts & Crafts (oregoncoastfilmfestival.org) Live Music Kids Activities Rock & Gem Fest Quilt Show Shorebird Fest For registration forms / info: SEPTEMBER 21–23, CHARLESTON 541-266-9706 www.bayareafunfestival.com FOR MORE THAN three decades, the Oregon Shorebird Festival has offered one-of-a- kind birding field trips and talks to experts and novice birders alike. The 32nd Festival is scheduled for September 21–23 and will again be headquartered at the Oregon Institute ience the South of Marine Biology in Charleston. The festival includes a pelagic trip offshore, kayak paddle er Co xp a tours up the South Slough, and land-based trips to both Bandon and other prime birding Fun For All Ages! st E areas in the Coos Bay area. Keynote speaker this year will be Tim Boyer, a graduate of the Seattle Audubon Master Birder Program and author of the recently published book, Learn the Art of Bird Photography. Boyer’s presentation on Friday will take some of the mystery and hardship out of photo- graphing birds. His talk on Saturday, “Understanding Shorebirds, the Miracle of Migration,” Our Past Builds is about the epic migrations of several shorebirds such as bar-tailed godwits, who fly all the Our Future 1210 N Front St way from the Yukon Delta to New Zealand in Coos Bay www.CoosHistory.org eight days. Boyer’s book will be available for purchase at the festival or as a paperback or Kindle book on Amazon. (TimBoyerPhotog- www.coosart.org 235 Anderson raphy.com) Coos Bay Other highlights of the weekend cornerstone of the South Coast include the new bird display at the Charles- visuAl Arts ton Marine Life Center and sea mammal watching opportunities at the Simpson Reef Overlook. Participants may register for Part Aquarium the festival online or at the check-in at the Part Museum All Discovery! 63466 Boat Basin Rd Oregon Institute of Marine Biology (OIMB) Charleston cafeteria in Charleston on Friday, Sep- tember 21 from 4 to 6 p.m. (541-297-2342; www.CharlestonMarineLifeCenter.com oregonshorebirdfestival.org)

30 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

Dahlia Delights SEPTEMBER 1–2, 9–10 & 29, OREGON COAST LATE SUMMER AND fall marks the return of the bright and big blossoms of dahlias, which thrive in the cool, moist climate of the coast. There are several places along the Oregon coast, from Tilla- mook to Gold Beach, that celebrate the showy and vibrant flowers that are a last tribute to the waning days of summer. Dahlia Fest, held this year from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on September 1–2 and 9–10, will be held at Old House Dahlias, 6 miles south of Til- lamook. Visitors can walk the 4-acre field featuring more than 200 varieties of dahlias, visit a display garden, and purchase fresh cut flowers or place a 2019 dahlia tuber order. Food, beer, and coffee will be available for visitors. (503-771-1199; oldhousedahlias.com) Shore Acres State Park’s own garden of dahlias and more is on display during Dahlia Days, held September 29. While there, visitors can check out the red dahlia named “Shore Acres,” cultivated by the now deceased North Bend resident Madlyn Geisert. (shoreacres.net) On the south coast, the Wild Rivers Dahlia Society Show returns to Gold Beach on September 1–2. The show features hundreds of show-worthy blooms at the Event Center on the Beach. The show will be open on Saturday from noon to 5 p.m. and Sun- day 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.(541-247-4541; eventcenteronthebeach.com)

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 31 COASTAL HAPPENINGS Music Showcase Take a long walk OCTOBER 12 & on the beach. NOVEMBER 16, BANDON EVERY YEAR, THE Bandon Showcase highlights top musical performers in its concert series that runs from Fall into Spring. This year, audiences can head

into the holidays with some Molly Tuttle RAITZ KAITLYN COURTESY sweet tunes performed by Molly Tuttle on October 12 and Seffarine on November 16. Award-winning songwriter and virtuoso multi-instrumentalist Molly Tuttle is known Relax, for her lilting and lucid voice that brings originality and sensitivity to her bluegrass songs. Rejuvenate, Seffarine, led by Moroccan singer Lamiae Naki and oud player/flamenco guitarist Nat Hul- skamp, has a repertoire that runs from classical Arabic and Andalusian music to original Reconnect . . . compositions influenced by Spanish flamenco, classical Persian music, and American jazz. in Bandon by the Sea. Audiences can expect eclectic and exciting evenings with both performers. After the holidays, the showcase returns on February 8 with vocalist Halie Loren, singer/songwriter Luke McMaster on April 4, and wraps up on May 1 with the 1960s and 70s soft-rock band, The Sweet Remains. Individual tickets are $25 per show, available for advance purchase at the Bandon Mer- cantile (541-347-4341) or at the box office before the show. (bandonshowcase.org) www.bandon.com

Cranberry Cornucopia SEPTEMBER 7–9, BANDON IN THE FALL, the south coast Oceanfront Lodging celebrates its famous cranberry bogs and harvest with its very own festival—the COURTESY ANGELA CARDAS, CARDAS PHOTOGRAPHY CARDAS CARDAS, ANGELA COURTESY annual Bandon Cranberry Fes- Bandon-Cranberry Festival Parade tival. The theme of the festival this year is “Bog Trek! Boldly Go Where No Cranberry has Gone Before,” held September 7–9 Festival (with live music, Kids Corner, Ocean Front Rooms • Ocean View Rooms throughout Bandon. Silly? Yes, and that is and more), the Cranberry Eating Contest, Private Decks • Fireplaces & Kitchens what this festival is about—letting loose and the extremely popular Street Dance Spa & Indoor Pool • Wi-Fi in Rooms and having fun. starting at 6 p.m. in Old Town. There is The festival begins on Friday with still a lot going on Sunday with disk golf, the ceremonial Blessing of the Harvest, a corn hole tournament, the Bandon along with the craft bazaar and bake sale Lions Club Cranberry Run, and more at the Ladies Auxiliary at the VFW Hall cranberry eating contests. Guest Laundry • Adjacent Fine Dining (which will continue on Saturday as well) Festival-goers won’t want to miss the Beach Cottages • Economy Rooms Bandon Quilt Guild Quilt Show, which Dog Friendly Call for Details and the Cranberry Queen ceremony in will be open Friday through Sunday at 1865 Beach Loop • PO Box 373 the evening. Things really get going on Bandon, OR 97411 Saturday with the Cranberry Cruise-In the Oddfellows Hall on Hwy 42. (bandon. 1-800-842-2407 www.sunsetmotel.com com/2018-cranberry-festival-events) 541-347-2453 www.sunsetlodge.us Car Show, the festival parade, Old Town

32 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com COASTAL HAPPENINGS

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Colorful cranberry bogs in Bandon. ALAN HUESTIS ALAN www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 33 COASTAL HAPPENINGS Bikes & Beer Friends of Music SEPTEMBER 8, GOLD BEACH FALL 2018–SPRING 2019, ONE OF THE most spectacular places to BROOKINGS ride a bike might just be the south coast, MUSICIANS FROM ALL across the world and the best time to take a tour is during will be playing another season of great clas- the 8th annual Bike the Rogue bicycling sical concerts for the next Brookings-Harbor event that takes place on September 8, Friends of Music series. The organization has starting in the morning in Gold Beach. The brought high-quality classical music con- event offers three different ride distances: certs to this area of the coast since 1985. 25 miles, 40 miles, and 62.5 miles. All three The current season kicks off on Sep- routes follow the banks of the Rogue River tember 16 with the critically acclaimed duo and cross two bridges. of violinist Judith Ingolfsson and pianist Bike riders or anybody else can relax later Vladimir Stoupel, who hail from Germany at the Gold Beach Brew Fest. Great beer and and Iceland. great music are on the top of the agenda for On October 7, the celebrated piano the Brew Fest, held the same day from noon trio from Denmark, Trio con Brio, will play to 9 p.m. at the Gold Beach Event Center. The COMPASS INTUITIVE COURTESY to audiences. The Trio has won most of the Brew Fest offers a wide selection of micro- live music from the bands Castletown, international competitions for piano trio, brews from almost a dozen brewers pouring Apple Barner, Intuitive Compass, the Fer- the best in craft beers, including beers from guson Brother’s, Lone Star Junction, and Arch Rock Brewing, Ecliptic Brewing, 2 Towns Backbeats. Attendees can also peruse the Ciderhouse, New Belgium Brewing, Misty art show, classic cars, and artisan vendors. Mountain Brewing, Sierra Nevada, North Tickets are $10 in advance (available at Coast Brewing Co., Georgetown Brewing goldbeachbrewfest.org) or $15 at the door. Company, Sam Bonds Brewing, Bandon Admission includes a complimentary festi- Brewing Company, and Nectar Creek. val beer glass and two tickets to test craft The atmosphere will be groovin’ with beer selections. (541-247-6822) COURTESY NIKOLAJ LUND NIKOLAJ COURTESY Friends of Music, Trio-con-Brio Wild Rivers Mushroom Festival and recently became the first ensemble to receive one of Denmark’s most prestigious NOVEMBER 3–4, BROOKINGS music awards, the P2 Artists Prize. Ameri- GET READY MUSHROOM lovers—everything you can Brass Quintet, called “the high priests could want to know and learn about local fungi will of brass” by Newsweek, will wow the crowd be available at the Wild Rivers Mushroom Festival, with the power of brass on November 11. November 3–4 in Brookings. Members of the Wild Other concerts in the series include Rivers Mushroom Club along with local experts will baritone Dashon Burton on January 13, cel- be leading field forays and conducting how-to work- list Nicholas Canellakis and pianist Michael shops both days. Brown on February 10, pianist Thomas Renowned mycologist and San Francisco State

COURTESY WILD RIVERS MUSHROOM FESTIVAL MUSHROOM RIVERS WILD COURTESY Pandolfi on April 7, the Minguet Quartet University professor Dr. Dennis Desjardin is the key- on April 28, and the annual Scholarship note speaker, and will be presenting on “Fungi and Human Affairs: How we interact with Concert on May 19 performed by pianist fungi in our daily lives.” Other speaker topics include an introduction to fungi, a dem- Dr. Alexander Tutunov with scholarship onstration and tips on dehydrating mushrooms, tips on cooking with wild mushrooms, awardees. and a slide show presentation on mushrooms of the Oregon Dunes, among other topics. Concerts are held at the Brookings Vendors at the festival will have all sorts of mushroom-related products for sale. Seventh-Day Adventist Church on 102 Park Local restaurants and breweries will be offering mushroom-themed meals and spirits all Avenue. Season tickets are $100 or $20 per weekend long; ask for the official wild mushroom menu at the festival registration desk, person for each concert. Children under located at the Chetco Activity Center in Brookings. (541-661-1385; wildriversmushroom. age 18 admitted free. (brookingsharbor- wixsite.com/wrshroomfest-2018) friendsofmusic.org)

34 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Fishing boats moored at the docks at Garibaldi. —Larry Andreasen 48 Hours in ASTORIA story by MARIE SHERLOCK Sometimes called “Little San Francisco” because of its steep hills dotted with Victorian mansions, Astoria offers fascinating history interspersed with great restaurants, breweries, and art galleries.

op quiz: What’s the oldest American settlement west Pof the Rockies? San Francisco? Wrong. Seattle? Nope. Portland? Wrong again. The city that claims that dis- tinction is Astoria, founded in 1811 by emissaries of fur trading tycoon John Jacob Astor. Situated at the mouth of the Columbia River, Astoria transitioned to a bustling seaport by the early 20th century, and soon became a center for processing fish, with about 30 canneries located along the river in the 1940s. The canneries are gone, but Astoria’s rich history remains, and visitors are treated to an archi- tecturally stunning, history-laden, must-visit Oregon treasure. I love Astoria. So I was elated POTTS ROBERT when I received an assignment to spend a weekend absorbing the best amenities of this cherished town. Here’s my report. 

36 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com ROBERT POTTS

FRIDAY or DAY 1

My husband and I roll in around 5 p.m. and locate our home away from home, the Grandview Bed and Breakfast. Grandview’s proprietor, Loretta Maxwell, greets us like old friends. We are staying in the Gazebo. “It’s a fun room,” says Maxwell. She’s right. There’s a canopied queen bed, antiques galore, and a sweet little sitting room with bay windows overlooking the town and the Columbia. When you opt for a place like the Grandview—built in 1895 and a fine example of the Victorian architecture that Astoria is famous for—your accom- modations become part of your travel experience. PHOTOS BY MARIE SHERLOCK MARIE BY PHOTOS After settling into our digs, it’s time for dinner. Maxwell recommends Mai Tong Thai, a relatively new addition to a small pod of food carts called Astoria Station at 13th and Duane Streets. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the B&B. Here’s the thing about Astoria: This is a town that must be walked to be thoroughly experienced. From nearly every vantage point you’ll be rewarded with a view of the river on one side and delightful Victorian architecture on the other. Fortunately for us tourists, it’s immensely walkable—no destination mentioned in this article is more than a 25-minute trek

from our B&B. BREAKFAST & COURTESTY GRANDVIEW BED

At Astoria Station we discover Reveille Ciderworks and from left: Astoria Riverfront Trolley; Astoria hillside; The meet bartender/owner Jeremy Towsey-French, who offers Astoria Riverwalk; The breakfast room at the Grandview; generous samples and descriptions of each cider variety. With Grandview Bed & Breakfast. our curated aperitif in hand, we order Thai fried rice and egg rolls and enjoy the food cart ambience. Back in our B&B room, we have a front row seat as the skies darken and the city lights blink on.

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 37

SATURDAY or DAY 2

I generally wake up early—it’s a curse and a blessing. On this day, it’s decidedly the latter. I meander down to Blue Scorcher, a 5-minute walk. This worker-owned cooperative is one of the grooviest bakery/espresso spots on the planet. Organic, locally sourced ingredients and a commitment to pay employees

livable wages make Blue Scorcher a SHERLOCK MARIE BY PHOTOS simpatico spot for your first caffeine jolt bullet notched onto the of the day. house. The turret’s picture I’m back to the B&B in time for windows deliver in spades breakfast: fruit, scrambled eggs, bagels, with sweeping vistas of cream cheese, and smoked salmon. Our the waterfront and the wise hostess also offers up “dessert”: two Columbia. chocolate cupcakes to take with us. (I It’s our Museum like the way she thinks!) Morning, our strategy The meal is served in Grandview’s being to learn a bit about “bullet turret”—so named because, from the town before ventur- the outside, it does indeed resemble a ing out to sightsee. We

head first to the Heritage Museum for a general education on all-things- Grandview Astorian. Bed and Breakfast Chronologically, the driving factors in the city’s development were beaver Wonderful river views furs (in demand due to the dapper top Near 100 year old churches hats that were all the rage in Europe), 3 museums, trolley lumber, and fishing. By the mid-1800s, theaters, aquatic center restaurants & riverwalk the fur trade business had tapered Free wireless internet off and the focus turned to lumber 1896 Victorian and salmon. In the early 1900s, more Sept. 15–Oct. 15 ✦ Enjoy $11 less than 2,000 gillnetting boats plied the Oct. 31–April 15 ✦ 2nd Night $58 Columbia and the town boasted the Open all year. $99–$137 per night largest cannery in the world. Queen beds & private baths The area’s seemingly limitless For Special Rates bring coupon supply of lumber was used to build Sunday through Thursday night Astoria’s downtown area on pilings. That wood became tinder when a 1574 Grand Avenue devastating fire swept through the Astoria, Oregon 97103 city in 1922, destroying more than 503.325.5555 30 downtown blocks. The historic 800.574.1574 downtown that we see today is the GrandviewBedandBreakfast.com result of the 1920s restoration.

38 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com To delve deeper into the region’s co-existence with the Mighty Columbia, we turn to the Columbia River Maritime Museum (CRMM). It’s an eye-opener to learn just how danger- ous it is to cross the bar at the river’s mouth, nicknamed “The Graveyard of the Pacific.” The Columbia River Bar has claimed more than 700 lives and 2,000 vessels. In the Science of Storms exhibit, visitors can view the Earth from space, experience hurricane force winds in a simulator, and try their hand at giving a weather forecast. We do our best impressions of Phil the CRAIG TUTTLECRAIG Weatherman in Groundhog Day. We 48 HOURS ASTORIA hear continuous laughter from this WHEN YOU GO exhibit as we continue through the museum’s many offerings. Astoria Warrenton Chamber of Commerce (800-875-6807; There’s a Riverfront Trolley stop travelastoria.com) right outside CRMM. The restored 1913 streetcar runs parallel to Astoria’s

WHERE TO STAY Grandview Bed and Breakfast (800-488-3250; grandviewbedandbreakfast. com); Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa (503-325-4996; cannerypierhotel.com); Astoria Crest Motel (800-421-3141; astoriacrestmotel.com)

EAT & IMBIBE Reveille Ciderworks (971- 704-2161; astoriacider.com); Blue Scorcher Bakery & Café (503-338-7473; bluescorcher. coop); Astoria Coffee House & Bistro (503-325-1787; astoriacoffeehouse.com); clockwise from top left: A famous saloon Josephson’s Smokehouse is reconstructed in Astoria’s Heritage (503-325-2190; josephsons. Museum; The Columbia River Maritime com); Baked Alaska (503-325- Museum; The hurricane simulator at the 7414; bakedak.com); Silver Columbia River Maritime Museum; Astoria Salmon Grille (503-338-6640; Riverfront Trolley; Heritage Museum. silversalmongrille.com); The Cellar on 10th Street (503- 325-6600; thecellaron10th.com)

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 39 48 HOURS ASTORIA WHEN YOU GO

DISCOVER Oregon Film Museum (503- 325-2203; oregonfilmmuseum. org); Astoria Column (503-325- 2963; astoriacolumn.org) Heritage and Flavel House museums (503-325-2203; cumtux.org); Columbia River Maritime Museum (503- up a parking lot (I feel a Joni Mitchell 325-2323; crmm.org); Astoria Trolley—facebook.com/asto- song coming on). Cooler heads pre- riatrolleyold300 for fall schedule vailed. (old300.org) This sublime example of Queen Anne architecture—with a grand entrance hall, 14-foot high ceilings, SHOP and six ornate fireplaces—has been RiverSea Gallery (503-325- refurbished to exacting period stan- 1270; riverseagallery.com); Luminari Arts (503-468-0308; dards, from its octagonal-shaped tower facebook.com/luminariarts); SHERLOCK MARIE BY PHOTOS to its chamber pots. Godfather’s Books and delightful Riverwalk, a paved, multi- Espresso (503-325-8143; purpose path that stretches for 5 miles Being a tourist is delightful but facebook.com/godfathersbooks) along the waterfront. For a (literal) depleting work. Time to refuel. change of pace, we take the trolley to We choose Astoria Coffee House CANNERY PIER HOTEL our next museum, Flavel House. and Bistro for our early afternoon SPA Captain George Flavel started sustenance and caffeine fix of stick- One of the & his career as a bar pilot and eventu- to-your-ribs clam chowder and lattes. TOP 25 cannerypierhotel.com Hotels ally became Astoria’s wealthiest man. Sidewalk cafe. Sunny day. Bliss. in the West He had the stunning Flavel House We cap off the educational portion constructed in 1885 and retired there. of our day with a stop at the Oregon Flavel’s great-granddaughter, Patricia, Film Museum. Housed in the old generously donated the property to the county jail, this hands-on attraction city of Astoria in 1934 but the house offers tons of trivia about movies like ASTORIA ~ OREGON was nearly bulldozed in 1951 to put The Goonies, a Spielberg film with Reservations 1.888.325.4996

40 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Fort Clatsop COURTESY NATIONAL PARK SERVICE PARK NATIONAL COURTESY

ASTORIA Sidetrips COURTESY NATIONAL PARK SERVICE PARK NATIONAL COURTESY Fort Clatsop While Astoria’s amenities may keep you plenty busy on a 48-hour visit, consider these options a short drive from town. Fort Stevens was active from the Civil War through World War II. With more than 4,200 acres, Fort Stevens is now Oregon’s fourth largest state park and it just might be the most diverse, offering campgrounds, beach access, a lake, paved bike trails, a military museum and defensive batteries, and the Peter Iredale, a turn-of-the-last-century ship- wreck. (503-861-3170; oregonstateparks.org) Fort Stevens Fort Clatsop commemorates an earlier part COURTESY ASTORIA WARRENTON CHAMBER OF COMMERCE OF CHAMBER WARRENTON ASTORIA COURTESY of American history. It’s a replica of the 1805- 1806 winter home of the Lewis and Clark expedition. During summer months you’ll be both educated and entertained by demonstrations of candlemaking, hide-tanning, muzzle-loading, and more. (503-861-2471; clockwise from top left: Flavel House music nps.gov/lewi) room; Astoria Coffee House & Bistro: View High Life Adventures, located in Warrenton from the top of the Astoria Column; Astoria (just south of Astoria) offers an exciting, Column; Josephson’s Smokehouse; Oregon eight-part zipline course that takes you sailing Film Museum Hot Set; Flavel House. through tall trees and over ponds and lakes. There is also a Tarzan-like “Extreme Zip Swing” option—for those who dare. The course starts with shorter length, lower elevation a cult-like following, and Arnold runs, allowing participants to build up their Schwarzenegger’s Kindergarten Cop, courage as they glide along. A super-fun both filmed in Astoria. The Hot Set way to conquer your fears! (503-861-9875; COURTESY HIGH LIFE ADVENTURES LIFE HIGH COURTESY highlife-adventures.com) room allows you to produce your own High Life Adventures movie—you can email yourself the www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 41 “final cut” after making edits. Our next destination is a bit of a schlep; we cheat and take the car. We’re heading to the Astoria Column, which is literally and figuratively the town’s crowning glory. Sitting atop Coxcomb Hill, the iconic tower is covered with murals depicting Astoria’s history. It’s free to walk the 164 spi- raling steps to the top. Your reward: panoramic vistas. We watch as several climbers launch balsa gliders off the tower, an officially sanctioned activity (they’re available for purchase in the gift shop). After returning our car to the B&B, we head to Josephson’s Smokehouse, the purveyor of that delicious smoked salmon we enjoyed for breakfast, via the Riverwalk. Josephson’s has been tan- www.oregonfilmmuseum.org talizing taste buds for almost a century. www.cumtux.org We sample smoked albacore tuna and www.facebook.com/cumtux stock up on smoked salmon. The tuna is a good appetizer for our next stop: Baked Alaska, right Relaxing setting • Epic views on the river. We arrive at 5:45 p.m., Well-maintained rooms just in time for Happy Hour. We opt for Passion Statement Cider (we are, apparently, going through a cider

The Best in Speciality Seafood–Since 1920 phase) and split a cheeseburger and Gifts • Canned • Jerky • Chowder House pizza. Our tab—for food, cider, and Cold Smoked • Hot Smoked waterfront view—is only $21. Historic Smokehouse 5366 Leif Erikson Dr We stroll back along the Riverwalk Visit our store or order online at 800-421-3141 and then cut up to Reveille for a www.josephsons.com • 503-325-2190 503-325-3141 106 Marine Drive • Astoria, OR www.astoriacrestmotel.com nightcap.

SUNDAY or DAY 3 Your Oregon fishing adventure begins here! After another tasty breakfast, it’s time to say goodbye to our hospitable hostess. We’re off to do some window shopping downtown. CHARTERED FISHING TRIPS A stroll down Commercial Street Lower Columbia River Astoria & Buoy 10 • Pacific Ocean reveals that Astoria’s main drag lives CAPTAIN RANDY VANDERHOOF up to its name—its eclectic assortment CALL TO BOOK 503-502-7983 Salmon • Tuna • Halibut of businesses make the browsing (and Bottom Fish • Sturgeon • Crabbing buying) a delight. charterfishingastoria.com • 344 Industry St • Astoria If I lived in Astoria I would be

42 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com CALENDAR of EVENTS

2018 Through October 14 Astoria Sunday Market (astoriasundaymarket.com); September 8–9 Victorian Games at Flavel House (503-325- 2203; cumtux.org); September 28–30 Pacific Northwest Brew Cup (pacificnorthwestbrewcup. com); October 14 Great Columbia Crossing (greatcolumbiacrossing.com); October 19–21Astoria from top: Godfather’s International Film Festival (goaiff. Books and Espresso; Riversea Gallery; Cellar com); November 23 Santa Lucia on 10th. Festival of Lights December 15–23, 26–30 Flavel House Holiday Plum Pudding & Tea (503-325-2203; cumtux.org); December 17 Old- Fashioned Christmas in the Flavel House Museum (503-325-2203; cumtux.org)

2019 February 22–24 FisherPoets

PHOTOS BY MARIE SHERLOCK MARIE BY PHOTOS Gathering (fisherpoets.org); April 26–28 Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival (astoriacrabfest.com); May $500 landscape you can surely part with 11 Flavel House Mother’s Day Tea a few bucks for a greeting card. & Scones (503-325-2203; cumtux. We stop in at The Cellar on 10th, org); June Goonies Day (thegoon- which has been highly recommended. docks.org); Tenor Guitar Gathering It is chock full of hundreds of bottles of (tenorguitargathering.info); wine as well as every wine accompani- Scandinavian Midsummer Festival ment imaginable, from corkscrews to (astoriascanfest.com); Astoria Music Festival (503-325-9896; astoriamusic- cookbooks. We enjoy a flight of wines, festival.org) July Astor Street Opry expertly poured by Steven Meyer. Company—Shanghaied in Astoria While we sniff, swirl, and sip, Meyer, a (shanghaiedinastoria.com); Astoria a regular at Godfather’s Books and veritable Astoria encyclopedia, tells us Open Studio Tour (astoriavisualarts. Espresso. It’s a mini-Powell’s, with new about the varieties we’re tasting—and org); August Astoria Regatta (asto- and used books displayed alongside about his beloved city. He points out riaregatta.com) each other. I love that the book genres that this town of 10,000 has its own are identified with Scrabble tiles! ballet company and symphony. He Our visit—in early May—means RiverSea Gallery showcases dazzling raves about the town’s eclectic festivals, we’re missing out on many of these artwork, primarily from Northwest from the Regatta to the FisherPoets events. But that’s okay. We’ll add them artists. At Luminari Arts, you’ll also Gathering to Goonies Day. He’s also to the “to do” list for our return trip. find stationery, scarves, socks, souve- a huge fan of Astoria’s Sunday Market Paraphrasing Arnold Schwarzenegger nirs, and odds and ends galore. I like (open Mother’s Day through mid- (in a non-Astoria-filmed movie), “We’ll this approach—if you can’t afford a October). be back.” ■ www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 43 Carruthers Restaurant: From Bosnian comfort food to A Time Out of Time Walking into Astoria’s Carruthers Restaurant is to be ASTORIA’S transported to a past that never innovative Northwest cuisine, was. Owner James Demeo says the design was a response to the architecture of the venerable building, RESTAURANT an attempt to create the look of “an old world grand hotel lobby you’ll find a multitude of options of the twenties.” It is that and more, and it is the latest arrival in Astoria’s emergence as a dining RENAISSANCE destination. Chef Dan Brownson is young, in the city’s burgeoning restaurant scene. local, and largely self-taught. He began cooking as a child and loved to experiment with spices. He continues cooking with imagina- tion and a joyful disregard for convention. Demeo describes his chef’s cooking as “older style with a new twist and an international flare.” A case in point is his bone marrow deviled eggs. “What hasn’t been done with deviled eggs?” Brownson asked himself. After much experimentation he produced something unique, with an extraordinary and subtle blend of flavors. This is true of everything Brownson cooks, from seared story and photos by DWIGHT CASWELL ahi to braised short ribs and vegan selections like black garlic and here are scores of restaurants in Astoria, from basil risotto-stuffed portabella. the traditional steak-and-seafood Silver Salmon The elegant bar is a local T to places like Himani Indian Restaurant and TJ’s hangout, and the servers fit into Supper Club, where you can find excellent food in a conge- the time-out-of-time ambiance nial atmosphere. So what are you waiting for? Pack your bags that makes a meal at Carruthers and head to Oregon’s new dining destination. Bon Appetit! a singular experience. (503- 975-5305; carruthers-restaurant. business.site) above: Meghann Hanour Sprague, Carruthers waitress and local artist.

44 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com clockwise from above: The bar at Carruthers; Chef Dan’s bone marrow deviled eggs with house naan; Chef Dan at the stove.

Drina Daisy: Flavors that Sing Stepping into Drina Daisy is like walking into a favorite family- owned restaurant somewhere in Europe. And except for the location, that’s exactly what it is. This is a small Bosnian restaurant serving Euro-Mediterranean cuisine, where the menu advises, “presentation may vary by availability and mood.” Chef Fordinka Kanlic began cooking professionally at the age of 8 in her grandmother’s restaurant near Sarajevo. She cooks her grandmother’s recipes, which her grandmother learned from her grandmother. Food doesn’t get more authentic than this. Kanlic’s food isn’t complex, but the flavors sing. She takes simple ingredients and turns them into something marvelous. You’ll find yourself lingering over dinner in the European way, savoring stuffed cabbage rolls, roasted lamb, and the best baklava you’ve ever had. You might even have another glass of an excellent wine you’ve never heard of, like Dingac (“donkey,” so named because the vineyards are so above: A delicious dinner of lamb and stuffed cabbage, with Dingac wine. steep they must be farmed with donkeys). right: Chef Fordinka Kanlic learned how to It’s not every day you get to cook from her grandmother in Sarajevo. visit Bosnia on the Oregon coast. (503-338-2912; drinadaisy.com)

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 45 ASTORIA Fulio’s Italian and FOOD CARTS Mediterranean Cuisine: A Bit of La Dolce Vita New owner Alan Think Astoria’s res- LaPlante has brightened up taurants are the only this well-regarded restaurant place in town to get with sophisticated decor, an a good meal? Think expanded wine list, and more again. The food carts have come to town. seafood on the menu. The new Some are migratory, executive chef, Sean Whittaker, but most are located in has back-to-back wins in the the heart of town. You’ll Iron Chef Goes Coastal com- always find several on petition, and his specials are Duane Street between extravagant. You’ll find the Fort George Brewery and the Museum of same courteous staff, and your Whimsy. Reach Break waitress might be Wendy, who Brewing has turned looks like she just stepped off top: A meal for three at Fulio’s, featuring butternut squash ravioli, sausage what used to be a the set of La Dolce Vita. in mustard cream sauce, and cioppino. above left: Chef Whittaker prepares parking area into an al And life is sweet at Fulio’s, an entree. above right: Wendy Stevens, a server at Fulio’s. fresco brewpub, where with a menu devoted to Italian you can enjoy a variety and Mediterranean comfort of cuisines with great local beer. food, the staples of Italian Baby Boomer’s restaurants since Emperor is a hot dog stand Claudius. Except for the with Dungeness crab specials, that go far beyond the specials on Sundays. borders of Italy, you won’t have You’ll also find tra- to ask, “What is that?” ditional Thai food, organic soups, Chinese Enjoy your seared Caesar, tacos, and “Genuine perhaps the best salad in town, Humboldt” barbecue. or authentic pasta puttan- If a retired fishing boat esca, ribeye steak, or scampi a qualifies as a food cart, Diavolle, redolent of chorizo you’ll also find excel- and roasted peppers. If you’re lent albacore fish and vegetarian, try the delicious but- chips—and a long line—across from the ternut squash ravioli. Maritime Museum at In short, Fulio’s is unpreten- the Bowpicker. tious, with a touch of elegance. Chef Holen’s seafood stew combines the cuisines of Iceland and (503-325-9001; fulios.com) the Pacific Northwest for a delicious experience.

Baby Boomer’s Mai Tong Thai Food Hong Kong Taco Cart The Hot Box Bowpicker

46 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Bridgewater Bistro: Northwest Cookery Almost under the Astoria-Megler Bridge is a building once used for drying fishing nets. Since 2008 it has been home to Bridgewater Bistro. Owners Tony and Ann Kischner had noticed that increasingly diners wanted a casual experience, with excellent food. “We had this incredible industrial building,” Tony says, “so we went less formal, and kept the food creative.” Diners enter by a kitchen garden that invites them to “pick a taste of heaven” and sit beneath a wall of glass with a stunning view of the river. The menu is an appealingly diverse presentation of Northwest cookery, with influences from around the world and local ingredients from fish to forest forage. A savory crab cheese- cake is Bridgewater’s most popular appetizer, and you may find roasted duck, pork collar, and “Mayan salad” (with roasted beets, marinated quinoa, and black beans) on a menu that is 90 percent gluten-free. The specials are where the chefs have the most fun: how about roasted Columbia River white sturgeon served with artichokes and spiced yams in Kombu broth with a few drops of top: Bridgewater Bistro offers fine views of the Columbia River. chili oil? (503-325-6777; bridgewaterbistro.com) above: Sturgeon with artichokes and spiced yams.

Baked Alaska: Chef Outta Water Many say the Renaissance other places, and then invites them began with the painter Giotto. to have a similar experience in Chris Holen, who founded Baked Oregon, with an audience of diners. Alaska in 2000, has much the Baked Alaska’s “Pure Seafood same honor in the Astoria restau- Stew” is an example of this rant renaissance. “This part of the approach. It’s a classic Nordic stew country doesn’t have a distinct (he went to Iceland) based on a style of cuisine,” Holen says, “but fish stock made with salmon carcass we have a plethora of ingredients. (Pacific Northwest) and rosé of I want to highlight those ingredi- pinot noir (France—but they ents.” would never use salmon for stock). Holen established his “Fish Delicious. Outta Water” exchange program to You’ll also find menu items like keep his cooking fresh and interest- smoked salt sous-vide beef shoulder, ing. Why the name? A fish outta Dutch oven Duroc pork shank, and water is uncomfortable, and Holen iron-seared wild salmon. All this wanted to force himself beyond and there are sensational views of his comfort zone. “I like to explore the river and the historic water- the world from a food perspective, front. Open 7 am 243 11th St • Astoria to see what is being done in other The Giotto of Astorian cuisine 503-325-1787 astoriacoffeehouse.com cultures.” is keeping it fresh and real. (503- So Holen cooks with chefs in 325-7414; bakedak.com) www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 47 Carefree Coastal Living If you’re looking for an investment that offers views and amenities—but not a lot of upkeep—consider purchasing a property managed by a homeowner’s association.

48 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Home

story by GAIL OBERST

usan Golay not only sells coastal condos, but lives in one, too. “I have a breathtaking view of the ocean, and the beach is only 100 yards away—at a fraction of the price it would costS me to own my own home with the same view and proximity,” says Golay, an agent for Century 21 Agate Realty in Gold Beach. As a single woman, Golay appreciates the close neighbors in her complex. “I work a lot, and having the low-maintenance lifestyle of condo living is perfect for me,” she says. Golay’s attraction to comfort and beauty is a familiar one. For years, my family has rented vacation homes and condos in resorts on the Oregon Coast, loving the view, the beach, and the town, not to mention the clubhouse, the pool, and other luxuries that are generally part of homeowners association (HOA) resorts. Recently, we’ve explored the idea of buying a home on the Oregon Coast with shared amenities—a condo, townhouse, or cottage. The main attraction: The amenities, and sometimes even the properties, are maintained by an HOA. We aren’t just looking for easy upkeep and an investment we can afford. We are looking for luxury, great views, and beach or bay access. We don’t want much. Just everything! Luckily, the Oregon Coast has lots of options. Whether you choose to live in your property or rent it to vacationers, before you buy, check out these tips I’ve put together with help from many Oregon Coast COURTESY KOHO COURTESY The houses at Koho in Yachats share ocean views, a clubhouse, real estate professionals. and an HOA that covers exterior maintenance. www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 49 Home Stephanie Starostka Welch of Nestucca Ridge properties showed me the Pacific Seawatch community above Pacific City, with its panoramic views of the Nestucca River Bay, Cape Kiwanda, Haystack Rock, and the Pacific Ocean. Pacific Seawatch includes both homes and lots, all with access to a clubhouse with a pool and mini-golf course. Welch also showed me Shorepine Village, a resort closer to the beach that offers both townhouses

STAND-ALONE HOMES For those who like shared amenities, but not shared walls, there are dozens of coastal resorts made up of individual houses. Two friends of mine live in a two-bedroom cottage in Waldport’s Bayshore community. They own their home and small lot and enjoy a private life across the street from the ocean. Their only nod to communal living is the Bayshore Beach Club and certain landscaping and home appearance requirements.

and separate homes, all of which share a small clubhouse, a boardwalk and trails to the beach, barbecue grills, and picnic tables. The KOHO community in Yachats is a group of 30 individual homes designed by David and Drew Rieseck. All share a clubhouse and an HOA that covers maintenance of the home’s exterior. “Your home is worry-free and beach-full,” say the Riesecks. “Less chores equal more fun.”

CONDOS Year-round on the Oregon Coast, from Astoria to Brookings, you’ll find

PHOTOS BY GAIL OBERST GAIL BY PHOTOS dozens of condos for sale in a variety of settings, from cozy remodeled apart-

50 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com clockwise from top left, facing page: Looking south from the Cottages at Cape Kiwanda; The clubhouse at Pacific Seawatch; View from a property at Pacific Seawatch; Embarcadero condos in Newport; Views from inside one of the Cottages at Cape Kiwanda; Townhouses in Newport. ments above a coastal store to palatial ment, a condo with an HOA is perfect The same is true for second home- seafront homes in high-rise buildings because the owners can rent it out buyers who want to start with a less that provide top-drawer ameni- nightly and still use it when they would expensive property that they may sell ties. With prices ranging from a few like, offsetting the expenses and having to purchase a larger home in the future. thousand for fractional ownership to it ready when the time comes that they “The price for an oceanfront condo nearly a million dollars, condo pur- can relocate permanently,” says Karen is typically 25 to 30 percent less than chases on the Coast also attract a range Kennedy, owner of RE/MAX Ultimate a traditional oceanfront home,” says of buyers. “For those nearing retire- Coastal Properties in Gold Beach. Kennedy. www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 51 Home FINANCIAL MATTERS The prices for resort living may look enticing, but as Sonja Lovas of Martek Real Estate in Newport points out, HOAs have a wide range of fees and management styles. “I would prefer the HOA that is managed by an actual property manager,” she says, “rather than someone appointed by the residents living in the building. A property manager should be experienced at eval- uating future repairs and maintenance and can help the board set a budget.”

TOWNHOMES These semi-private homes are often part of resort developments that include individual homes and condos. Typically a townhome shares a wall, but not ownership, with its neighbor, and may have several levels. Homebuyers with families may like this semi-private option that is often less expensive than a single-family home. COURTESY GOLD BEACH PROPERTIES BEACH GOLD COURTESY GAIL OBERST GAIL Live nestled against ocean, forest and forever

oceanview homes in yachats The most expensive HOAs may cover maintenance, www.KOHOoregon.com internet, cable, garbage, electric, heat, water, and in some cases, cleaning fees. Less expensive HOAs limit coverage to clubhouse upkeep or resort landscaping. Before buying, take a look at the resort’s budget and minutes, Lovas suggests. If this is an investment, past resort history could determine future HOA costs, and the ability to resell your condo, KOHO Kennedy says.

52 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com With good association management, however, owning property in an HOA can be trouble-free. “Even if you’re not living there full-time, you don’t have to worry about landscaping and maintenance,” Lovas says.

For many, the attraction to living in a resort community is more about time than money. Golay sold her 3-bedroom ranch-style home to live in a 700-square-foot beachfront condo, and loves the social and low-maintenance aspects of her new life. “I have more time for the things I want to do, like walk on the beach and

GAIL OBERST GAIL look for treasures. It has felt so freeing to have less stuff and less house to take care of,” she says. “I live in paradise.” ■

clockwise from top left, facing page: A townhouse at Sebastian Shores in Gold Beach; Smuggler’s Cove in Newport; The Landing at Newport; A townhouse at Shorepine Village; View from a townhouse in Gold Beach. GAIL OBERST GAIL

Fractional ownership is another option. Owning a portion of a resort home, condo, or townhouse is a less expensive way to enjoy a property you couldn’t other- ok your stay to o day wise afford. Fractional ownership splits the ownership 541.25.429 among two or more owners who also split expenses, including HOA fees. To reduce worry and paperwork, you may pay a management company affiliated with the resort to oversee fractional ownership details.

RESORT LIVING: A GOOD INVESTMENT? Rental management, cleaning, and HOA fees may take a bite out of profits, if you are hoping to make money renting your property to vacationers, Lovas n and Two drooms wit warns. Rental income may offset a portion of the ull itcns lu mnitis property costs, but not all owners profit from vacation irct ac ccss rentals. www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 53 Home The Market— Then and Now The late Rob Spooner began writing yearly real estate articles in 1988. Rob’s wife Alicia carries on the tradition with a look at the coastal real estate market 30 years later.

story by ALICIA SPOONER he year was 1988, and Rob and I had just taken over T Oregon Coast magazine and were working on our first real estate story. We were renting a house in Florence because our former home in Belfair, Washington, had yet to sell and we had just invested our savings in the magazine. Around the corner from the place we were renting was an early Florence home. It was just the type of home we had always dreamed of, with two stories, dark wood built-ins, a front porch, and so much charm. It was currently being used as a bed-and-breakfast

and they only wanted $125,000 for it. ZIELINSKI PAM COURTESY PHOTOS This beautiful home in Oceanside, on the market for $1.6 million, For the reasons mentioned above, we is listed by Pam Zielinski of Berkshire Hathaway. had to turn it down.

54 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com While working on this story I asked a local realtor what that house would be worth today and he told me it would probably be in the $400-500K range. The house we were renting (it is now the Edwin K Bed & Breakfast) is currently on the market for $1.3 million.

In 1988 the coast had just started to be discovered. Rob wrote that “a pleasant two- bedroom in Seaside could be purchased for $44,900.” Today, you would be lucky to get a lot for that amount. The lowest price on a lot in Seaside I could find recently was $44.9K and it was 4,791 square feet. Most lots go for $80–$90K. In the September/October 2005 issue, Rob wrote a real estate overview article titled “The Hottest Ever.” He said that many agents reported that 2002 was their best year in history, “and halfway through 2003,” he wrote, “they are on track to set yet another record.” Then came 2008. The crisis of the housing bubble reached rock bottom in 2012, and many people—who had paid top dollar for their homes—began to panic and had to sell or turn their house over to the bank. They were underwater. I asked Pam Zielinski of Berkshire Hathaway in Netarts if prices had risen back to where they were when the bubble burst. “The housing market has completely TOP: This charming Victorian home in Tillamook is listed at $288,000. bounced back on medium- to lower-end MIDDLE: This spectacular oceanview home is listed at $799,000. houses,” she says, “but there are still some BOTTOM: An easy walk from the beach, this Rockaway Beach home is listed at $239,900. great values on the higher end properties. This area didn’t really start the recovery All the homes are listed by Pam Zielinski at Berkshire Hathaway. until fairly recently.” www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 55 Home

Zielinski has several properties that would be wonderful investments. The most expensive is on the ocean in Oceanside and lists for nearly $1.6 million. The interesting thing about this home is the mother-in-law suite, a completely separate suite that can be used as a vacation rental or can be lived in while the top two floors of the main house are used as a vacation rental. The current owner would like to retain this suite and would reduce the price to $950,000 for the rest of the house and property. Zielinski has several homes along the Three Capes Loop ranging from $674K to $799K. She also has more modestly priced homes in Rockaway Beach and Oceanside. One Rockaway Beach home, built in 2007, has three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a one-car garage. It is listed at $239,900. The house I fell in love with was a 1903 Victorian right in the middle of Tillamook. This home is two-story, with four bedrooms and three bathrooms. The Crenshaw House was built in 1903 and is beautifully remodeled with respect for the period. It has nooks and crannies, a veranda, an entry-level master suite, and a large nostalgic kitchen. Off the garage is an approved auxiliary dwelling unit in a partially converted garage. This can be rented out for extra income or kept on hand for a private getaway. You can own this little piece of history for only $288K. our area are existing homes,” he says, “ranging from a Coast When we moved to Florence in 1988, real estate was Village trailer to over $1M on the lake.” Lots outside of town, in a slump. The logging industry had taken a hit and a lot he adds, are still relatively plentiful. Prices range from $45K of the younger people were moving away. Many people to $99K, with waterfront property running around $200K- were starting to look at tourism, however, and brokers were plus. The average price on a home in the Florence area is in warning that the end of the oversupply was in sight in most the $270K’s. (The peak was $324K back in 2005.) communities. If prices were rising here, they were going You can currently purchase an oceanfront cabin in through the roof in California. People were drawn to the Florence, a rare opportunity for generations of family coast’s mild climate and reasonable housing prices, and they memories, for only $429K. This cabin was built in 1977 and were dreaming of retiring. offers two bedrooms, two baths, and 1,412 square feet of I recently asked Andy Johnson of Coast Real Estate, in living space on .17 acre of land. You could rent it out as a Florence, how the market is doing. “Today there is more vacation rental, reserving times for your family. new construction than in recent years,” he says. “People are Also available in Florence is an extremely rare log-style, buying lots for future builds, and builders are also buying lots. circa 1938, lakefront cabin on Siltcoos Lake. Watch the There are more custom homes being built than in the past.” sunrise over the lake while enjoying your morning coffee, However, he notes that existing home sales continue to then launch your kayak from your very own boathouse for a fuel the Florence market. “Ninety percent of what is sold in turn around the lake. This charming cabin has an exceptional

56 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com PHOTOS COURTESY COAST REAL ESTATE REAL COAST COURTESY PHOTOS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Woahink NW-style lakefront with covered boat dock & boat lift, $649,950; Lakefront, sleek, contemporary & modern. 1900+ SF. South facing with dock. $649,000; Vintage Siltcoos lakefront cabin. Ready for full time living or vacation get-away. $349,000; Oceanfront cabin with 1400+ SF. $429,900. These properties are listed with Coldwell Banker, Coast Real Estate in Florence.

WEST COAST REAL ESTATE SERVICES , INC.

Welcome to Florence Hello! My name is Jim Hoberg. I’ve lived in the Florence area my entire life and starting in 1989, began working in Real Estate. My local knowledge of the community coupled with continual education to keep up with Real Estate trends makes me a good resource for anyone contemplating Florence. At my company, West Coast Real Estate Services, you will find a carefully selected team of professionals who are as enthusiastic about helping you relocate to this beautiful community Jim Hoberg as I am. Broker/Owner Residential Purchase Relocation 541-997-7653 Country living with 68+ acres and Siuslaw River view for New Construction Property Toll Free $449,900 presented by West Coast Real Estate Services in Vacant Land Management 1-866-967-7653 Florence. 1870 Hwy 126 • Suite A [email protected] PO Box 3040 • Florence, OR 97439 wcresi.com

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 57 Home

ABOVE: This three-story custom built luxury home comes with granite and cherry wood throughout and is listed for $950,000.

CENTER: A private spectacular oasis with fabulous views on this 1.32 acre oceanfront property with two bedrooms upstairs and one bedroom downstairs. Could divide home into two separate living quarters and is listed for $589,000. BOTTOM: Breathtaking ocean views come with this custom home in Whaleshead RV Resort just north of Brookings on Highway 101, listed for $219,000. All listed by Ron Reel of Pacific Ocean Properties. wraparound deck with beautiful views of the lake, mature vegetation, and is wind-protected. It is very unusual to find lakefront at this low price of $349K.

I asked Ron Reel, owner and prin- ciple broker of Pacific Ocean Properties in Brookings, if he was getting many people who wanted to relocate because of the heat and the fires that are burning inland every summer. “Oh yes,” he says, “especially those who are looking to retire soon. It is hard to beat the climate and beauty of the coast. I am getting people escaping from the heat in Santa Barbara, LA, Redding, Medford, Utah, and Washington.” Reel had one woman call him up and buy a home sight unseen. “This lady was 80 years old and had always dreamed of living in Brookings. With electronic signa- tures and overnight document delivery, you don’t need to be present to close your home.” Andy Johnson has had similar experiences in Florence. “We’ve had a couple clients recently escaping the fires and extreme PHOTOS COURTESY PACIFIC OCEAN PROPERTIES OCEAN PACIFIC COURTESY PHOTOS

58 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Let us show you the area we love Brookings-Harbor, Oregon COURTESY BLUE PACIFIC REALTY PACIFIC BLUE COURTESY

Enjoy the natural beauty of trees, mountains and the Chetco River in this three-level wilderness cabin, for only $248,800. This home is www.blupac.com listed by Blue Pacifc Realty.

Jewels By The Sea Pacific Ocean Properties REAL ESTATE & VACATION RENTALS Let Ron Find Your Dream Home! Serving coastal communities in Oregon with quality and personal attention for over 25 years, Ron will provide outstanding homes for sale so you can buy your dream home or list your home to sell when the time is right. Property Management Full property management • Rental services Long-term • Short-term • Seasonal & Vacation Rentals

Ashberry By The Sea • Brookings Oregon VACATION RENTAL VRBO# 1210833

Let us help you find your little gem on the Oregon Coast!

Call Barbara or Skylar today. Ron Reel Ph.D. The Reel Estate Doctor Principal Broker “Making House Calls For You” Skylar Windham Barbara Ciaramella 541-236-4460 541-661-2117 pacificoceanproperties.org [email protected] [email protected] Pacific Ocean Properties Office: 541-813-2340 P.O. Box 4670 Cell: 541-244-8118 16358 Lower Harbor Rd. • Brookings Brookings, OR 97415 [email protected] www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 59 Home

The photos on this page and the facing page showcase the $2.4 million, 26-acre oceanfront estate with a Kensho-designed house. PHOTOS COURTESY CENTURY 21 AGATE REALTY AGATE 21 CENTURY COURTESY PHOTOS

California heat. One client lost his home on the Big Island Also in Gold Beach, Susan Golay of Century 21, Agate (in Hawaii) to a volcano. He is under contract for property Realty, notes that “with only 4 percent of the land in Curry here in Florence.” County open to development, and with the mass exodus Reel tells me that in the Brookings area, the market hit of people fleeing fires and crime in urban areas, people are bottom in 2012, and there has been a steady increase of 6.5 grabbing up properties left and right.” Prices have gone up percent a year. The median price of homes is now $300K. 10- to 15 percent a year in the last couple of years, she says. The rental market is expensive. There is nothing available “The low prices, clean water, and temperate climate make that is less than $1,000/month for a two-bedroom, or $1,200 Gold Beach very attractive. People are buying land for future for a three-bedroom. For an ocean view, expect to pay $2,000- building when they retire in five to 10 years.” $3,000 a month. Golay has some very interesting properties listed, includ- Looking back through old issues of Oregon Coast, I dis- ing a 4.88-acre, mountaintop property with a magnificent covered that in 1991 Larry Kammer of Agate Realty in Gold ocean view. It currently has a manufactured home that has Beach told us that “oceanview property has kind of reached been gutted. It also has a shop and several commercial green- a threshold, but parcels will sell when the right people come houses—not assembled. The asking price is $165K, with a along.” In the article we wrote in 1988, I found a three-bed- possible owner carry. room ranchette in Brookings, sitting on 14 acres with a view On the other end of the spectrum is one that took my of the Chetco River, for $285K. Today, you can get a beauti- breath away. For only $2.4 million, you can own a zen-like ful three-bedroom, two-bath home on 17.66 acres for a mere home on a private, protected, unspoiled 26-acre oceanfront $649,785. property featuring old-growth trees, sandy beach access, waves

60 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com crashing on monolithic rock formations, and tide pools. A The Oregon Coast is dotted with dozens of communities, whale-watching platform, nature trails, and two babbling each with a unique personality and economic base. Whether creeks add to the allure of this Kensho (a well known architect/ you chose to live in Astoria, with its hillside Victorian contractor in Japan) home built to be in harmony with nature. mansions and fascinating history, Seaside with its bustling There is also a turn-of-the-century farm home on the property activities, Florence with its dunes, lakes, and Old Town, Gold and a gatekeeper’s home at your private gated entry. Part of Beach with its vast stretches of rural land going right down to the land is on an easement with the Nature Conservancy so it the ocean, or Brookings with its mild climate and excellent can preserve the park-like coastal old-growth forest from future fishing, every community on the Oregon Coast has something logging or development. If only I were a millionaire. to offer. ■

Homes by the Water

www.PamZielinski.com AgAte ReAlty In GOLD BEACH and BROOKINGS

Successfully Serving the Southern Oregon Coast Since 1985 www.goldbeachproperties.net 541-247-6612 • 800-421-8553 [email protected] BeRkshiRe 29642 Ellensburg Avenue • Gold Beach, OR 97444 hathaway www.century21agate.com home services 541-469-2143 • 800-637-4682 Northwest Real estate [email protected] 1016 Chetco Avenue • Brookings, Oregon 97415 Pam Zielinski Direct: 503-906-3827 – Principal Broker – Member of RMLS Licensed in the State of Oregon. Netarts, OR Each office is independently owned and operated. www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 61 Looking for a new fishing venture? Here’s one that’s affordable, relatively the easy, and doesn’t require a boat. Rocks

story and photos by CHERYL D. WANNER

ome of the most varied and exciting fishing in Oregon can be found right off our Scoastal jetties. Jetties are manmade breakwaters that protect harbors, influence tides and currents, and provide reef-type habitat for native fish. As a result, they also provide great opportunities for shore-based anglers. Jetty fishing is often fast-paced and entertaining, with frequent strikes and a mixed bag of species, including greenling (sea trout), surfperch, rockfish (sea bass), lingcod, cabezon, flounder, even halibut and salmon. Half the fun is never knowing what you’ve hooked until it breaks the surface or you haul it in.

62 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com and tell you when (or if) various species can be taken. You’ll want a salmon rod and reel (typically a spinning reel) suitable for 15 to 30-pound test line. Use bright line that’s easy to track; these fish, unlike trout, aren’t spooked by the sight of it. Various riggings can be employed, some involving multiple weights and others, multiple hooks. You’ll need plenty of tackle as it’s not uncommon to lose your rigging among the rocks. Baits range from live or frozen (fish, squid, shellfish) to artificial (lures and synthetic live baits). My husband, our daughter, and I started with just the basic tackle and a simple rigging technique that clips two lines of different lengths (one with a tri- angular weight, the other with a hook) into the swivel. Our bait of choice is sand shrimp, which can be bought from the nearest bait shop or sucked from the tidal flats with a clam gun. Harvesting your own bait takes time but can be fun and saves money. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Fisherman on Our favorite location is the north the Barview north jetty; Ed Wanner lands a jetty at Barview (Tillamook Bay). rockfish on the Barview north jetty; Dolores Considered great for catching lingcod Müller of Cologne, Germany, skewering sand in the spring, this is a relatively short shrimp; Jennifer Wanner catches a wolf eel off the Newport south jetty; Rockfish caught breakwater with parking and restrooms off the Barview north jetty; Cheryl Wanner on the shore end, and you can go from catches a greenling off the Barview north your car to a fishable spot on the rocks jetty. within minutes. The tidal flat near Coast Guard Station Tillamook Bay What do you need to get started? An in Garibaldi is good for bait gathering, Oregon angler’s license, possibly coupled and you can throw your crab rings from with a shellfish and/or salmon tag. You the fishing pier opposite the station. can fish the jetties with just the basic Overnight camping is available in license, but you must have the extra tag Barview Jetty Park with a cleaning to keep any salmon or halibut you take. station handy for gutting your catch. A shellfish license allows you to harvest We’ve also fished Newport’s south your own bait, such as crabs, mussels, or jetty. A long breakwater of huge sand shrimp, as well as keep any legal- WANNER C. EDWARD boulders and tilted slabs, this site sized crabs. Current Oregon fishing requires a bit of scrambling the further regulations will list catch and size limits out you go. The north jetty is also www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 63 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Ed and Jennifer Wanner digging for sand shrimp on Siletz Bay; Spearfisherman off the Barview north jetty; Nehalem north jetty.

fishable, but with no on-top parking, there a bit before reeling it back in. the hike out is much longer. The tidal Your line will be in constant motion, flats of Yaquina Bay are good for sand the tug and pull of swell and tide. shrimping. There’s a fishing/crab pier These fish tend to be hungry and are and cleaning station on the south side aggressive hitters. As soon as you hook of the bay, and you can camp in nearby one, it will run for the rocks, and the South Beach State Park. In addition to fight is on! the usual groundfish species, flatfish, In general, near-shore fishing yields such as flounder and sole, are some- surfperch and greenlings while the tips times taken off the jetties in Newport. of the jetties are optimum for catching The south jetty at Brookings is lingcod and cabezon. Black rockfish are another great spot, especially for surf- also a common catch. In fact, anything perch. Other coastal jetties include swimming or crawling among the rocks, Nehalem Bay (north of Rockaway including crabs, starfish, wolf eels, even Beach), Winchester Bay (Reedsport), small sharks, is fair game for your hook. Siuslaw River (Florence), Coos Bay Keep a pair of pliers handy as most of (located in Charleston), Bandon, Port these fish have teeth. Orford, and Gold Beach. If you’re a spear fisherman, jetties Unlike freshwater fishing, where abound with underwater opportunities. most action occurs in the mornings and The Fingers, on the channel side of evenings, jetty fishing is all about the Newport’s south jetty, is a popular dive tides. The best time to fish is an hour site. The Third Finger is a good spot to before high tide and an hour through spear surfperch, rockfish, and lingcod. the slack tide, though we’ve found good Oregon regulations prohibit the fishing for hours on either side of a spearing of oceangoing freshwater fish, turning tide. such as salmon and sturgeon, and size You need not cast far; you are limits do apply. Even if you don’t spear- fishing the rocks where the fish hang fish, you can watch the divers from your out. Let your hook sink and maybe sit spot on the rocks.

64 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Ready to give jetty fishing a try? fish. It’s the feel of being on the ocean Take a hike out the nearest breakwater while standing on land. It’s watching and talk to whomever you find holding the gulls and the cormorants, maybe a pole. Fishermen are, as a rule, an open spotting a sea lion or a whale spout, community, and they love to tell their perhaps seeing a Coast Guard motor stories. They’ll happily divulge what lifeboat or a fishing vessel cross the bar. baits they’re using—what’s working, It’s the incredible view of surf and sky what’s not—how they’ve rigged their and the next headland breaking the lines, and show off their catches. Local coastline. It’s breathing in the sea air bait shops are another good source and relaxing on the rocks as you wait of information as are websites and for the next hit on your line. With any YouTube videos. luck, it’ll be your catch of the day! ■ Jetty fishing is more than catching

Keep Safe on the Jetties Because you will be fishing above or beyond swells and breaking surf, always keep an eye on the ocean, especially on a rising tide, and work your way up the rocks as the water rolls in. Wear nonslip shoes or boots, never waders; if you fall in, waders will fill and drag you down. Creepers (cleats that clip over boots) can be worn for traction on seaweed-covered rocks. If you use a bucket, exercise caution when scrambling down to fill it. Take care when navigating the boulders, especially further out to sea where the going is more rugged. Water is typically calmer on the channel side, and one jetty (varies with location) will be more protected than the other. Check the National Weather Service for predicted swell size—three feet is probably safe; six feet isn’t. Stay off the jetties when high winds create breaking surf over the rocks. Wear a personal flotation device. And always fish with a buddy. www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 65 WOODCRAFTER’S story and photos by TOM BAAKE PARADISE THE COOS BAY BOATBUILDING CENTER OFFERS WOODWORKING WORKSHOPS THAT CAN CULMINATE IN ANYTHING FROM A SPOON TO RED CEDAR CANOE.

66 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com he briny scent of the bay mingles with the smell of fresh-sawn cedar as another classic T wooden watercraft nears completion at the Coos Bay Boatbuilding Center. Perched atop a sturdy concrete dock along the waterfront in Coos Bay’s Empire district, the Boatbuilding Center is heading into its 10th year of handcrafting and restoring everything from one-of-a- kind boats to carousel rosettes to myrtlewood furniture to wooden spoons. In recent years the center has orga- nized the annual Tall Ships visit, when historic and replica sailing vessels such as the Gray’s Harbor-based Lady Washington come to call. In addition to providing ample space, a well-out- fitted workshop, and moral and technical support for a variety of smaller projects, the Center offers workshops and classes throughout the year. It also keeps alive a boatbuilding tradition that goes back to 1858 in the North Bend/Coos Bay area, when skilled woodworkers built vessels that sailed all over the world with the bounty of Oregon’s forests. Indian traditions of carving elaborate dugout canoes go back even further. In recent years, though, local boat building opera- tions were focused mainly on fishing vessels of sturdy steel and aluminum, while wooden boats increasingly became a hobby project or novelty. Yet interest was keen in maintaining tradition, and a boatbuilding center was among suggested projects as the city looked to rehabilitate its historic Empire district. This waterfront area was originally dubbed the “Hollering Place,” for it bordered a narrow part of the bay where in

Boatbuilding Center volunteer pioneer times one had to call out for someone from the Mike Leigh rolls out a 13-ft. Port other side to come ferry them across. Orford Cedar skiff for display. The The area languished in later years, but recent boat is a takeoff on a classic design improvements included a boat ramp with floating known as a Herreshoff lapstrake rowing boat. docks, a public fishing pier, a fish-cleaning station, and

www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 67 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Boatbuilding Center volunteers Mike Leigh and Akane Nakanishi discuss the next steps in the process to complete a Port Orford Cedar wooden skiff. With a bit of help from parents and grandparents, youngsters decorate wooden toy boats. From right, Barbara Blackwell and Riley get into the spirit, while Anna Elizabeth and John Blackwell try their hands. Coos Bay Boatbuilding Center perches on pilings along the waterfront in the city’s Empire District; Boatbuilding Center volunteers like to say there’s no such thing as having too many clamps. They’re essential for most projects, including this rowing pram. Boatbuilding Center volunteer Mike Leigh helps cedar-strip canoe workshop leader Nat Jaeggli, while Michael Mueller lends a hand.

68 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com “THEY HAVE AMAZING PATIENCE, AND THEY’RE WILLING TO SHARE WHAT THEY KNOW. IT’S A REAL COMMUNITY OF PEOPLE HELPING EACH OTHER.”

other amenities. Still, business owners, Each strip was about 10 feet long, stag- each other.” city officials and residents sought gered so no gaps adjoined. A popular event is the Christmas- further development. Local landowner The strips were carefully glued, laid season Santa’s Workshop, during which Doug Devine made property and a into place, and screwed to the frame, youngsters decorate small wooden toy building available, dilapidated buildings then stapled at intervals to the adjacent boat “blanks” with all manner of orna- and piers were removed, and the city strip. An array of clamps helped secure ments and embellishments. used Urban Renewal funds to bring the everything. Other workshops include wooden facilities up to code. Once the glue set, the staples and paddle-making, wooden boxes with Guiding the efforts through the screws were removed and the canoe dove-tail joints, and “free libraries”— years has been retired educator Tom was flipped over again for work on wooden boxes people set up next to Leahy, who explains that the center the inside. Subsequent layers of resin, their mailboxes to offer free books. added a second-floor shop to the main epoxy, and fiberglass cloth were laid Woodworkers have crafted an Irish building, and later another weather- down, with more sanding and minor curragh (or currach), a Montana pram, protected work area. He credited the shaping along the way. Further sanding a Mason bee house, hanging planters, ongoing guidance of local realtor and preparation were then completed wooden mirror frames, and rosettes— and maritime history buff Jim Berg, a on the outside. bas-relief design ornaments—for the founding member of the Center. It was the fourth workshop for vol- Coquille Carousel. Other projects One of the Center’s first projects unteer Mike Leigh, but “my knowledge include a “wherry boat,” a sleek rowing/ was a “six-hour canoe,” which as the increases with every project,” he says. sailing skiff also called the Oregon name implies involved building a canoe Echoing the sentiment was Akane Dory. The 33-foot Empire City is in just six hours. Less-intense cedar- Nakanishi, who on a recent day helped another long-term project expected to strip canoe workshops have been held volunteer Pete Perrin put the finishing hit the water this year. every other year since, led by veteran touches on a screen-vented door for a “We do more than just building woodworker Nat Jaeggli, who said the kitchen cabinet. boats,” Leahy says. “We want it to six-week project moves fairly quickly. She first heard about the Center’s be more of a folk art school and offer “If you stretch it out too long we all wooden spoon-making class and was things like scrimshaw.” Leahy has also lose enthusiasm,” he says. immediately impressed by the knowl- had discussions with the Northwest At a recent session, volunteers edgeable volunteers. “They have School of Wooden Boatbuilding about worked on a 16-ft Wabnaki-style canoe, amazing patience, and they’re willing to providing a certified instructor for which featured a distinctive bow and share what they know,” Nakanishi says. upcoming workshops. stern “recurve” shape. “Essentially, “It’s a real community of people helping He notes that the group works with we’re trying to create an East Coast the Oregon Youth Authority to provide American Indian birchbark canoe,” training and has gotten scholarships for WHEN YOU GO says Jaeggli, noting that West Coast more than 1,000 students to ride on the tribes favored dugouts. For more information and a tall ships during their annual visits. After the vessel’s basic shape was calendar of activities, check Leahy encourages anyone interested established with a temporary wooden the Coos Bay Boatbuilding in teaching a class—or anyone who frame, it was flipped over so workers website or call Tom Leahy. knows someone who will—to come on could lay down an exterior of three- (541-217-4365; coosbayboats.org) board. “This is a great resource, a real quarter-inch strips of Western red cedar. community workshop.” ■ www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 69 am sitting in Coos Bay’s Sunset Memorial Park, between my mother’s and I my father’s graves, because this is where my story about sloughs, tidal wetlands, and salt marshes begins. Where From this vantage point above the Coos River, where its upper reaches divide into the fingers of Isthmus and Ross sloughs, a flood Fresh Meets of memories washes over me; all good. I close my eyes and I am a child again, sitting on the Saltwater: banks of Isthmus Slough with my father and my grandfather. I have just caught some sort of bass. I open my eyes. In the distance, a blue Tidal Marshes heron rises from the mud of that very slough. My love of these unique places—where freshwater and tidal saltwater meet—began

story by GAIL OBERST here on the South Coast. Like any coastal child, I took it all for granted. I thought life would always be this way: mud and clams when the tide was out; ducks and fish when the tide was in. I thought wrong. Things had been changing long before I arrived. For nearly 150 years, Oregon’s tidal sloughs and saltwater marshes have been drained or dammed or diked by settlers who preferred living and raising crops and cattle on drier land. But luckily, the tide is literally turning. Hundreds of volunteers, agencies, local councils, landown- ers, and farmers have joined in restoring these precious ecosystems up and down the coast. Today, you and yours can enjoy tidal or saltwater marshes on public lands in almost every county on the coast. Sometimes they are part of larger national wildlife preserves, or state or federal parks. Sometimes, they are the product of private and public partnerships. Always, these marshes are a benefit to skin, fin, feather, and fur. I’ve gathered up a short list of places where you can hike, kayak, or just admire the plants and animals indigenous to this unique part of the coast. Most of the places listed are newly accessible to the public, although the grand- daddy of them all, South Slough Reserve, was established in 1974. This is not an exhaustive list; just a few I hope will inspire you to notice them as you drive, hike, or paddle the coast.  COURTESY DAVE LEDIG, USFWS LEDIG, DAVE COURTESY

70 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Salt marshes are increasingly recognized as important contributors to the coastal ecosystem. They are also wonderful places to observe birds and the ebb and flow of tides. ROY W. LOWE W. ROY

FACING PAGE: Yellowlegs are often seen at Bandon Marsh. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Aerial view of Bandon and Ni-les’tun marshes; Mallard duck in flight; Observation platform at Ni-les’tun Marsh. ROY W. LOWE W. ROY

ALDER ISLAND MARSH AND MILLPORT SLOUGH WHERE: Five miles south of Lincoln City, on Hwy 101, just south of Siletz River Road. OPEN: dawn to dusk TRAILS: An easy half-mile graveled loop through the marsh, past the lower Siletz River. WEB: fws.gov/refuge/Siletz_Bay/visit/visitor_activities.html

This marsh opened in 2017, and for me, it was an education on a place—visible from Hwy 101—that I had taken for granted. Alder Island’s half-mile nature trail provides rare public access to the Siletz Bay National Wildlife Refuge, a fact already discovered by anglers, who were busily casting into the turbid river when we walked past. The graveled trail takes you past Millport Slough and its tidal marsh, past informational displays, and into the home of many birds. In the winter, you’ll see bufflehead ducks; in the spring and summer, cedar waxwings and sandpipers. While we were there, migrating finches filled the trees with their twitterings. There’s a 3-mile water trail, and a place to launch a kayak or canoe. At high tide, the water fills the channels through the reeds and grasses. COURTESY DAVE LEDIG, USFWS LEDIG, DAVE COURTESY www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 71 MOST WILDLIFE AREAS PROHIBIT DOGS

MILLICOMA MARSH BANDON MARSH REFUGE, NI-LES’TUN WHERE: Public access is below Millicoma Elementary School, beginning MARSH UNIT at the public track, in Coos Bay. OPEN: dawn to dusk TRAILS: Park at the track; trail begins under the scoreboard. The longest loop (circling OPEN: dawn to dusk BANDON MARSH: From Highway 101 just left) is about 1.5 flat miles. A shorter walk, up and back to the observa- north of Bandon, turn west onto Riverside Drive and park in the refuge tion deck (turning right), is about one-third mile. WEB: coostrails.com/ parking lot on the west side of the road. NI-LES’TUN MARSH: From traildescriptions/millicomamarsh/millicomamarsh.htm Highway 101 just north of Bandon, turn onto North Bank Lane and drive about a mile to the overlook parking lot on the south side of the This is a great walk for the whole family, during which you road. WEB: fws.gov/refuge/Bandon_Marsh are likely to meet locals jogging, walking dogs, and gener- Because the Bandon Marsh unit is home to clams, crabs, worms, ally sightseeing in any kind of weather. My four-year-old and shrimp, it attracts a multitude of birds. You may see sandpip- grandniece, Bailey, and I walked the longer loop which leads ers, plovers, whimbrels, herons, and falcons from the observation through the tidal marsh, past the tidal flats, with North Bend deck. Bring your camera! This area is accessible by foot, stroller, and Coos Bay in the scenic distance, and all the ducks, geese, and wheelchair from the parking area. and wildlife you could want. Most of the walk is along a From the Ni-les’tun parking lot, there is short paved trail raised dike, which provides great view of the etched channels into the marsh, which ends at an overlook. From a distance, through the salt marsh. Educational plaques detail the history Ni-les’tun’s flat aspect may seem a bit bland; but look closer. of Coos Bay’s marshes, reminding us why this town was origi- Here is where I first saw the impact of the tides on saltwater nally named “Marshfield.” marshes clearly outlined on the sides of the incongruous drift- wood. And the birds! From the observation deck, see how many SOUTH SLOUGH NATIONAL ESTUARINE dozens of birds, ducks, and geese you can identify. While I stood RESEARCH RESERVE reading the interpretive plaques, I was scolded by a screeching WHERE: 61907 Seven Devils Road, south of Charleston. OPEN: dawn hawk-like bird. I was so excited, I dropped my camera. What was to dusk; Interpretive Center open Tuesday–Saturday from 10 a.m. to it? My curiosity 4:30 p.m. TRAILS: There are nearly a dozen trails, loops, and spurs. Best for saltwater marsh viewing is the North Creek Trail (1.5 miles). sent me scurry- Combine it with the Railroad Trail (.4 mile) to make a loop back to the ing to contact Interpretive Center. WEB: southsloughestuary.org a birder friend This 5,900-acre slough and estuary reserve extending up into the of mine—it was Seven Devils hills from Charleston includes extensive saltwater not an osprey or marshes. Young and old will enjoy the hands-on exhibits in a red-tail, but a the Interpretive Center, where you can also pick up a trail map northern harrier, before taking a hike. Informative plaques along the way will give otherwise known you a great basic training in saltwater “marsh-ology.” as a marsh hawk!

72 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com PHOTOS BY GAIL OBERST GAIL BY PHOTOS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: High tide at Alder Island; The nature trail at Alder Island; report names hundreds of plants and animals The trail at MIllicoma Marsh; The author at that thrive in saltwater marshes, from single- South Slough; Tidal channels at Millicoma Marsh; The Interpretive Center at South celled gastropods to juvenile Chinook, to Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve coots, bitterns, and harriers, and suggests that is family-friendly. economic growth may destroy the places that attract people in the first place. WHAT IS A SALT MARSH? “How can we have maximum economic My brother, whose property borders a growth in the coastal zone without destroy- new marsh that opened in 2017, shrugged his ing the ecological and aesthetic base which shoulders when I asked him this question and inspired that development?” the authors of said, “Oh, yeah. The mosquito factory.” He’s that report queried. not entirely wrong. Bugs love wet places. But Thirty-five years later, we may have hit so do the grasses, reeds, rushes, fish, amphib- on the answer: Connect people more deeply ians, and birds that eat them—some of with these beautiful places by opening them which are disappearing from Oregon’s shores to the public. The new connections have as their home environments shrink. inspired many to preserve what’s left. n Tidal marshes, also called saltwater marshes, are transition zones between fresh and brackish, or salty water habitats. The channels that wind through these marshy, muddy flats are important sources of food for fish, such as migrating salmon and trout, and serve as nurseries for young fish who aren’t ready for open water. Ebb tides sweep decaying materials from the marsh into the estuary to become part of the food web. Even as early as 1983, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service noted the importance of these sensitive areas, and compiled a 60-page report on their status in the Northwest (www.nwrc.usgs.gov/techrpt/82-32.pdf). The www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 73 Who should be on Your OREGON COAST subscription gift list? Immediate family members, and close friends of course, but how about some other people that you have “forgotten,” such as . . . o Your aunt, who always sent oP The friend who took you oP The exchange student from you a birthday present when you fishing last summer, when you Germany, who only visited the were a kid, and the one you used caught that 30-pound salmon. coast for a few days, but loved it. to write to, but lately . . . o The plumber who fixed oP Your brother-in-law from oP The neighbor who watered your overflowing toilet, on a Florida, who’s always telling your plants and yard while you holiday weekend, and didn’t you about the wonders of the were on vacation last summer. charge you double-time. Florida coast. o The auto mechanic who o The folks who run that oP Your college roommate in worked on your car last month, small resort you stayed at, with Oklahoma who is always com- and told you that you didn’t need the personal care and attention. plaining about the heat and who new brakes, just an adjustment you wish would come visit. o The “Prof” who helped you . through a tough course, and who o Your old boss, back in loves that coast, but doesn’t get Chicago, who helped you get there often enough. started, but hasn’t visited the coast since the 90’s, but still

thinks about halibut fishing.

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Send to: Oregon Coast Magazine, P.O. Box 119, Florence, OR 97439 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 101 Long Beach LONG BEACH Oct 5–7 Peninsula Arts 4 PENINSULA Association Fall Show 360-642- C O 2400; beachartist.org ASTOA Sep 14–16 Hammond Cache-Dash-Splash Warrenton 0 Longview 360-642-2400; cachedashsplash. Oct 6–7 One Sky, One World 360-642-2400; Gearhart Clatskanie com Kite Celebration SEASE worldkitemuseum.com m ier Sep 28–30 Wings Over Willapa ale OO OC 2 e 360-484-3482; friendsofwillaparef- Nov 23–25 Holidays at the Beach CANNON BEAC 53 uge.org/wings-over-willapa 360-642-2400; holidayslongbeach. com Nehalem Manzanita 0 Oct 1–Nov 15 Wild Mushroom Vancouver Celebration 360-642-2400; OCEAN PARK Rockaway Beach 6 wildmushroomcelebration.com taySep 8–9 Garibaldi 2 Rod Run to the End 8 Bay City of the World 360-642-2400; C OTLAN Oct 12–14 Oceanside Water Music Festival TLLAOO 205 S beachbarons.com Netarts 360-642-2400; watermusicfestival. 101 Cl ac a com OREGON COAST 99W m a s

Nov 23–24 Sep 29 McMinnville ier Peninsula Arts SOLVE Beach and Paci c City Association Studio Tour 360- Riverside Cleanup 800-333-SOLV; Neskowin & 22 18 642-2400; beachartist.org solv.org 99W LNCOLN CT 18 CHINOOK ASTORIA SALE lay

r Sep 29 360-642- Through Sep 1 Gleneden Beach e Oktoberfest Astor Street Opry i P 22 Depoe Bay t 2400; friendsofchinookschool.org Company Playhouse: Shanghaied ile Otter Rock 99W in Astoria 503-325-6104; antiam ier ILWACO astorstreetoprycompany.com NEOT Albany Through Sep 29 20 Saturday Market Toledo Corvallis 503-338-9511; portofilwaco.com Through Oct 14 Astoria Sunday Philomath reen Market 503-325-1010; Seal Rock eter es. Sep 7 Slow Drag at the Port 360- AstoriaSundayMarket.com Waldport Ca 642-2400; funbeach.com 34 99E lao 20 oia Sep 1–3 Battle for Clatsop 99W Yachats ier Oct 13–14 Cranberrian Fair County Civil War Reenactment 360-642-3446; columbiapacificher- and Living History nwcwc.net/ 101 36 cenie ier itagemuseum.org battle-for-clatsop-county ern 99 C idge 126 LONG BEACH Sep 8–9 Victorian Games at Flavel 126 EENE FLOENCE Mapleton Through Sep 3 360- House 503-325-2203; cumtux.org illa SummerFest met te i 642-2400; longbeachwa.gov iltcoos sl i Sep 22 Liberty Theater Classical a er ae ier Through Sep 28 Columbia-Pacific Series: Portland Chamber Gardiner Orchestra 503-325-5922; EESOT Farmers Market 360-244-9169; Elkton libertyastoria.org 38 ills longbeachwa.gov Winchester 99 Cree Bay es. Lakeside 138 m Holiday Spirit a NOT BEN Charleston Sutherlin COOS BA i C O e NOVEMBER 23, r s a service to our readers, OREGON 99 ma ier SEASIDE CO Coquille Roseburg COAST provides a selective guide to events BANON THE SEASIDE 42S Myrtle Point along the Coast. All listings are grouped by PARADE of Lights C o 42 town and location, north to south. For your plan- Langlois i l le and lighting of the A 101 i e ning convenience, we are covering two months of

r r

community tree C CO C i r Co ee

activity when possible. Although we believe infor- Port Orford BUREAU VISITORS SEASIDE COURTESY oge begin the holiday er i

mation to be accurate at presstime, always check in

e season in Seaside. The Parade, held November 23 at 7 p.m., begins og

Nesika Beach advance to confirm details. If you have an event that ll i no Grants Pass on Necanicum Drive at 1st Avenue and moves on to Broadway to

i s i you would like to have listed in OREGON COAST, OL BEAC er the musical tree of dancing lights, set in the pocket park at the r Medford tol ie please send us the information at least 90 days prior is west end of the Carousel Mall. Lighted floats, families, pets, and Ashland Oregon Caes to publication. ational onment community groups are decked with festive lights, and parade Gallery listings are not included in the Calendar BOONS 1 legate watchers join at the end to gather around the tree and sing carols. ABO ae of Events. See a separate section entitled Coastal Santa and his elf talk with children. Hot cider, cocoa, and cookies Art Galleries. . O are served. Come be a part of this joyful evening of Christmas by CESCENT CT the sea. (503-738-6391; seasidechamber.com) 101 Klamath Sunrise at Cannon Beach. —Dennis Frates CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Sep 28–30 Pacific Northwest Brew Sep 8 Muttzanita 503-368-3436; Cup 503-791-7940; pacificnorth- muttzanita.com Unusual Opera westbrewcup.com Sep 14–15 Manzanita Music SEPTEMBER 8–9, LINCOLN CITY Oct 14 Great Columbia Crossing Festival manzanitamusicfestival. 10k 360-642-2400; greatcolumbi- org THE LINCOLN CITY Cultural Center is acrossing.com Sep 15 Manzanita Writers’ Series: proud to partner with Cascadia Concert Oct 19–21 Astoria International Peter Rock hoffmanblog.org Opera to present the world premiere of Film Festival 503-484-5122; goaiff.com Oct 13 Hoffman Center Concert: the original tango opera, Tango of the Terry Robb hoffmanblog.org White Gardenia, with music by Ethan Oct 28 Talking Tombstones 503- 325-2203; cumtux.org Oct 20 Manzanita Writers’ Series: Gans-Morse and libretto by Tiziana

“Rock Star Librarian” Nancy Pearl DellaRovere. The CCO will perform COURTESYLCCC Nov 10 Liberty Theatre hoffmanblog.org Gala—Once in a Blue Moon 503- this compelling new chamber opera Ethan Gans-Morse Nov 17 Manzanita Writers’ Series 325-5922; libertyastoria.org in English, weaving together humor, emotional depth, and timely 10th Year Celebration: Local Nov 23 Sankta Lucia Festival of Writers Read hoffmanblog.org messages through the riveting music and dance of Argentine Lights 503-325-6136; astoriascanfest.com ROCKAWAY BEACH tango. This production will include a quartet of piano, accordion, Through Sep 30 Oregon Coast double bass, and violin, and six dancers who mirror each of the Nov 23–24 Light Up Downtown Scenic Railroad Excursions Holiday Celebration 503-791- vocalists. Tango of the White Gardenia will be performed twice on 888-71-TICKETS; oregoncoastsce- 7940; astoriadowntown.com nic.org the LCCC stage before moving on to Florence, Portland, Astoria, and SEASIDE Eugene. The performances are at 7 p.m. (541-994-9994; lincolncity- Through 2018 International Through Sep 26 Wednesday Police Museum: Fingerprint culturalcenter.org) 503-738-3311; Farmers Market Identification 503-457-6056; seasidemarket.org internationalpolicemuseum.org Sep 7–9 Wheels ‘n’ Waves Car Sep 2 Old Fashioned Carnival Sep 1–2 & 9–10 Old House Dahlia NESKOWIN Show 503-717-1914; seasid- 503-355-8108; rockawaybeachor.us edowntown.com Fest 503-771-1199; oldhousedahl- Through Sep 29 Saturday Farmers Nov 23 Lighting of the Christmas ias.com Market 503-392-3582; neskowin- Nov 23 Parade of Lights and Tree 503-355-8108; rockaway- farmersmarket.com Tree Sep 14–30 The Barn Community Lighting 503-738-6391; seasideor. beachor.us com Playhouse: God of Carnage 503- Oct 6 Harvest Festival 503-392- Nov 23–24 Holiday Gift Fair 503- 812-0275; tillamooktheater.com 3124; neskowinvalleyschool.com Nov 23–25 Holiday Gift Fair 503- 457-6056; rockawaybeachor.us 738-6391; seasideor.com Sep 22 Root Ball Fundraiser at the Oct 7 Neskowin Chamber Music GARIBALDI Tillamook State Forest 503-815- Series: pianist Jeffrey LaDeur Nov 24–Dec 15 Seaside Museum’s 6803; tillamookforestcenter.org Through Sep 30 Oregon Coast 503-965-6499; neskowinchamber- Gingerbread Tea at Butterfield Scenic Railroad Excursions music.org Cottage 503-738-7065; seaside- Sep 29 Pelican Brewing Salmon 888-71-TICKETS; oregoncoastsce- museum.org Run 5k &10k 765-729-0691; Nov 4 Neskowin Chamber Music nic.org pelicansalmonrun.com Series: Boston Trio 503-965- CANNON BEACH 6499; neskowinchambermusic.org Through Nov 24 Garibaldi Museum Oct 14 Mysterious Mushrooms of Through Sep 28 Tuesday Farmers 503-322- Open for the Season the Tillamook State Forest 503- Nov 25 Neskowin Chamber Music Market cannonbeachmarket.org 8411; garibaldimuseum.org 815-6803; tillamookforestcenter.org Series: Cantus 503-965-6499; Through Oct 24 Discover Haystack Sep 1–2 Garibaldi Museum: neskowinchambermusic.org Oct 18 Tillamook County Pioneer Rock Awareness Program Tours Model Boat Show 503-322-8411; 503-436-8060; ci.cannon-beach. Museum: Poet Laureate for LINCOLN CITY garibaldimuseum.org 503-842- or.us/hrap Oregon Kim Stafford Through Sep 15 Cruise the Coast 4553; tcpm.org Sep 29 Crave the Coast: Coast 800-452-2151; cruisethecoastlc. Sep 7–9 Cannon Beach Cottage to Table Food Festival 503-842- Nov 17–18 com Tours 503-436-9301; cbhistory.org Tillamook Forest 2672; cravethecoast.org 503-815- Center: Rain Festival Through Oct 14 Outdoor Farmers Sep 21–Oct 27 6803; tillamookforestcenter.org Coaster Theatre: Oct 24–26 North Coast Salmon & Crafters Market 541-921-0062; 503-436-1242; Deathtrap Fall Rendezvous salmonrendezvous. lincolncityfarmersmarket.org coastertheatre.com Nov 23–25 Tillamook Forest com Center: Holiday Wreath Making Sep 8 Chowder & Brewfest 800- Nov 2–4 Stormy Weather Arts BAY CITY 866-930-4646; tillamookforestcen- 452-2151; chowderbrewfest.com Festival 503-436-2623; cbgal- ter.org Through Oct 1 lerygroup.com Oregon Coast Rail Sep 8–9 Lincoln City Cultural 541-910-0089; ocrailriders. PACIFIC CITY Rides Center Concert: Tango of the Nov 16–Dec 23 com Coaster Theatre: Sep 7–9 Blowsion Surf Slam White Gardenia 541-994-9994; The Wizard of Oz 503-436-1242; Oct 12–13 BlowsionSurfSlam.com lincolncity-culturalcenter.org coastertheatre.com Tillamook Quilt Guild 503-440-1829 Quilt Show Sep 14–16 Cape Kiwanda Sep 14–15 Chinook Winds Casino MANZANITA TILLAMOOK Longboard Classic 503-483-1025; Resort: UB40 with Astro, Mickey Through Sep 14 Friday Farmers capekiwandalongboardclassic.com 888-624- Through Sep 29 Saturday Farmers Virtue, & Ali Campbell Market 503-368-3339; manzani- 503-812-9326; tillamook- 6228; chinookwindscasino.com tafarmersmarket.com Market farmersmarket.com

78 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Low tide at Seal Rock State Park. —Craig Tuttle CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Salmon Bake DEPOE BAY Nov 3–4 Harvest & Holidays Arts Sep 15 Indian Style Salmon Bake & Crafts Festival 541-547-4664; SEPTEMBER 15, DEPOE BAY 541-765-2889; depoebaychamber. yachats.org org DEPOE BAY HOSTS its Nov 9–11 Celtic Music NEWPORT Festival 541-563-6210; 62nd annual Indian-Style YachatsCelticMusicFestival.org Through Oct 31 Salmon Bake on Saturday, Outdoor Saturday Farmers Market 541-961-8236; Nov 30–Dec 2 Yachats Ladies Club September 15, from 10 a.m. newportfarmersmarket.org 91st annual Christmas Bazaar to 4 p.m. 541-547-3205; yachats.org Through 2018 Oregon Coast Pacific salmon is cooked Aquarium Exhibit: Big Bites 541- FLORENCE in a traditional method used 867-3474; aquarium.org Sep 7–9 Community-Wide Garage Sale 541-997-3441; for generations by native Sep 29 Newport Symphony florencechamber.com coastal tribes. Prepara- Orchestra: Ode to Joy 541-265- 2787; newportsymphony.org Sep 7–9 Rods n’ Rhodies tions begin months before the feast, when volunteers head to the Invitational Car Show 541-997- woods to cut 350 six-foot long alderwood stakes. Oct 5–7 Oregon Coast Jazz Party 3128; florencechamber.com 541-265-2787; oregoncoastjazz- Sep 19 Before sunrise on the morning of the event, an 80-foot fire line is party.org Florence Events Center: ignited with six cords of fir and Cascadia Concert Opera Tango Nov 2–4 Newport Symphony of the White Gardenia 541-997- three cords of alder. Thousands Orchestra: Bella Italia 541-265- 1994; eventcenter.org 2787; newportsymphony.org of pounds of salmon fillets are Sep 28–29 Festival of Books 541- 997-1994; florencefestivalofbooks. positioned on the alderwood Nov 3–Apr 27 Indoor Saturday org stakes and held in place with Farmers Market 541-961-8236; cedar strips. The alder stakes are newportfarmersmarket.org Oct 5–7 Wine & Chowder Trail and Great Glass Float Giveaway then positioned diagonally over Dec 8–9 Newport Performing 541-997-3128; florencechamber. the smoldering fire line, impart- Arts Center: Amahl and the com Night Visitors 541-265-2787; ing rich flavors to the salmon as newportsymphony.org Oct 24 Florence Events Center: they bake. Doo-Wah Riders 541-997-1994; TOLEDO seacoastea.org Each salmon is plated and Through Sep 27 Thursday Main Nov 2–11 Florence Events Center: Street Market 541-336-3183; served with coleslaw, garlic 541-997-1994; toledooregon.org Grey Gardens bread, and a beverage. Visitors eventcenter.org Sep 1–3 Plein Air Juried Art may enjoy their meals sitting at Nov 9–10 Holiday Bazaar by the Show 541-336-2797; michaelgib- Ladies of Elks florenceelks.com/ tables in the open or under a tent, listening to live music and watch- bons.net ladies-of-elks ing performances by native tribal dancers. WALDPORT Nov 11 Raffle tickets will be on sale for “Discover Depoe Bay” packages, Veterans Day Parade Sep 22 Cruzin’ for Crab 541-563- 541-997-4101; facebook.com/ which include lodging, dining, and fishing and whale watching trips. 2133; waldport-chamber.com FlorenceVeteransDayParade This traditional feast takes place in the Depoe Bay City Park, YACHATS Nov 24 Florence Events Center located at the south end of the town’s picturesque harbor. Many Through Oct 21 Sunday Farmers Concert: Ken Lavigne 541-997- 1994; seacoastea.org Depoe Bay merchants offer special discounts during the event. Market 800-929-0477; yachats- farmersmarket.webs.com (541-765-2889; depoebaychamber.org) Dec 1–2 Holly Jolly Follies 541- Sep 1 Yachats Ladies Club Labor 997-1994; eventcenter.org Day Pie & Ice Cream Social 541- REEDSPORT 547-3205; yachats.org Sep 15 Fall Plant Sale 541-994- sitkacenter.org/events/ Nov 30–Dec 1 Holiday Bazaar 6338; conniehansengarden.com resident-show-and-tell Sep 1–3 Yachats Arts Guild 541-271-4608; reedsportcc.org Gallery yachatsartsguild.com Sep 20 Lincoln City Cultural Oct 13–May 2019 Finders Keepers WINCHESTER BAY Center: Tunes in the Dunes 800-452-2151; oregoncoast.org/ Sep 7–9 Fall Blues Car Show & Sep 1–2 Art by the Bay 541-297- Ukulele All-Stars—A Benefit finders-keepers Shine fallbluessns.com 6073; reedsportcc.org for Westwind 541-994-9994; Oct 18–Nov 10 Oct 19 Oregon Coast NORTH BEND lincolncity-culturalcenter.org Theatre West: Better Late 541-994-5663; theatrewest. Chamber Orchestra Fall Sep 8–9 Mill-Luck Salmon occorchestra.org Oct 5–6 Chinook Winds Casino com Concert Celebration 541-756-8800; Resort: Dan & Shay 888-624- Nov 2–3 Oct 19–21 Mushroom Fest 800- themillcasino.com 6228; chinookwindscasino.com Chinook Winds Casino Resort: Paula Abdul 888-624- 929-0477; yachats.org COOS BAY Oct 6–7 800- 6228; chinookwindscasino.com Fall Kite Festival Oct 27–28 International Through Sep 2 Marshfield Sun 452-2151; oregoncoast.org Nov 23–24 Tree Lighting Party Challenge Art Quilt Show 541- Printing Museum Open 541- Oct 10 Sitka Center: Resident & Santa Sale 541-994-9994; 563-6210; pollyplumb.org/event/ 266-0901; oregonsadventurecoast. Show & Tell 541-994-5485; lincolncity-culturalcenter.org quilt-show-fairy-tales com

80 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Through Oct 31 Downtown Farmers Sep 7–9 Cranberry Festival Market 541-269-0215; coosbay- 541-347-9616; bandon.com Seaview TownhouSe downtown.org/farmers-market Bandon Vacation Rental Ocean/Seastack Views Oct 12 Bandon Showcase: Molly Sep 6, 13 Music on the Bay: Tuttle 541-347-4341; bandon- Tuesday Concerts 541-269-0215; showcase.org facebook.com/musiconthebay Nov 16 Bandon Showcase: Sep 15–16 Bay Area Fun Festival Seffarine 541-347-4341; 800-824-8486; bayareafunfestival. bandonshowcase.org com Nov 24 Night of 10,000 Lights Your Ocean Getaway Sep 15 Cruz the Coos 541-888- 541-347-9616; bandon.com/ 3863; oregonsadventurecoast.com holiday-highlights Sleeps 1-6 • WiFi • HDTV • Easy Beach Access • Zen Garden Sep 15 Prefontaine Memorial Run MYRTLE POINT www.coquillepoint.net [email protected] 541-269-1103; prefontainerun.com Sep 22 Harvest Festival 541- Coquille Point Condo • 541-347-1686 Sep 15–16 Coos Sand N’ Sea: Sea 572-0454; ci.myrtlepoint.or.us 541-297-2251; facebook. of Quilts BROOKINGS com/coossandnseaquiltguild SIXES NORTHERN Through Oct 13 Saturday Market CALIFORNIA Oct 5–7 Oregon Coast Film Through Oct 31 Hughes House & at the Port chetcobrew.com Festival oregoncoastfilmfestival. Cape Blanco Lighthouse Tours CRESCENT CITY 541-253-7565; capeblancoher- org Sep 2 American Music Festival: Through Oct Downtown Crescent itagesociety.com Igor & the Red Elvises 541- Oct 13 Oregon Authors Day 541- City Farmers & Artisans Market 469-1103; facebook.com/ 756-6320; cooshistory.org PORT ORFORD 707-954-2330; facebook.com/ AmericanMusicFestival DowntownCrescentCity Nov 7–April 2019 Downtown Through Oct 31 Saturday Farmers BrookingsOregon FarmerArtisansMarket Winter Farmers Market 541- Market 541-287-2000; facebook. Sep 14–30 269-0215; coosbaydowntown.org/ com/PortOrfordFarmersMarket Chetco Playhouse: Sep 1–2 Redwood Coast Grills farmers-market Sweeney Todd, The Demon Gone Wild! 707-464-3174; Through Oct 31 Port Orford Barber of Fleet Street 541-469- delnorte.org Nov 23 Downtown Coos Bay Lifeboat Station Tours cape- 1877; chetcopelicanplayers.org Sep 3–8 Christmas Tree Lighting & Santa blancoheritagesociety.com Redwood Coast 541-266-9706; oregonsad- Sep 16 Brookings-Harbor Open Plein Air Paint Visit Sep 29 Oktoberfest portorford- venturecoast.com Friends of Music: Judith Out 707-464-4745 rotary.org Ingolfsson and Vladimir Stoupel CHARLESTON 541-469-7625; brookingsharbor- Sep 15 Run in the GOLD BEACH Redwoods 707-464-9150; Sep 21–23 friendsofmusic.org Oregon Shorebird redwoodparksconservancy.org Festival 541-297-2342; oregon- Through Oct 15 Jet Boat Tours Sep 22 Oktoberfest 541- shorebirdfestival.org 800-451-3645; roguejets.com Sep 16 661-5347; facebook.com/ Music in the Redwoods: Ilya Yakushev 707-951-3102; Sep 29 Sep 1–2 Wild Rivers Dahlia BrookingsOktoberfest Dahlia Day at Shore musicintheredwoods.com Acres State Park 541-888-2472; Society Show 541-247-2364; Sep 29 Raining Cats and Dogs shoreacres.net goldbeach.org Sep 21–22 541-290-7276; brookingsharbor- North Coast Redwood Writers Conference 707-465- Oct 6 800-824-8486; Sep 8 Bike the Rogue River rotary.org Octoberfish 2300; ncrwc.org facebook.com/octoberfish goldbeachrotary.com Oct 7 Brookings-Harbor Sep 22 Northcoast Marine Oct 6 Salmon Run Marathon, Sep 8 Gold Beach Brew & Art Friends of Music: Trio con Brio Mammal Center Run for the Seals Half Marathon, 10K, and Crab Fest 541-490-1593; goldbeach- 541-469-7625; brookingsharbor- 5k Fun Run/Walk 707-465-6265; 800-824-8486; charleston- brewfest.org friendsofmusic.org Walk northcoastmmc.org salmonrun.com Sep 8, Oct 6 & 27 Kalmiopsis Oct 19–31 Chetco Pelican Players Oct 5–6 Blues, Brews & Cruise Nov 22–Dec 31 Audubon: Let’s Go Birding 541-469-1877; Holiday Lights Haunted House 707-464-3174; delnorte.org at Shore Acres 541-888-3732; 541-412-0806; kalmiopsisaudu- chetcopelicanplayers.org shoreacres.net bon.org Oct 13 DNCCA Concert Series Nov 3–4 Wild Rivers Mushroom 707-464-1336; dnaca.net COQUILLE Nov 16–17 Holiday Bazaar 541- Festival 541-661-1385; 247-4541; goldbeach.org Through Sep 9 Sawdust wildriversmushroom.wixsite.com/ Nov 1 Music in the Redwoods wrshroomfest-2018 707- Theatre: Wells, Wishes, and PISTOL RIVER Concert Series: Five Sax 951-3102; musicintheredwoods. Wickedwrongdoers or Ding, Nov 11 Brookings-Harbor Sep 22 Pistol River Concert com Dong, Dell, who Threw Granny Friends of Music: American Association: Evie Ladin Band in the Well 541-396-4563; 541-469-7625; Nov 3 707- 541-247-2848; pistolriver.com Brass Quintet Taste of the Holidays SawdustTheatre.com brookingsharborfriendsofmusic. 464-5226; delnorte.org BANDON Oct 13 Pistol River Concert org Nov 17 DNCCA Concert Series Association: Flamenco Pacifico Through Sep 5 Port of Bandon Nov 24–Dec 26 707-464-1336; dnaca.net 541-247-2848; pistolriver.com Nature’s Coastal Boardwalk Art Show 541-347- Holiday Light Display 541- Nov 17 3206; portofbandon.com Nov 10 941-5599; facebook.com/ Lighthouse Quilt Guild Pistol River Concert 800-343-8300; NaturesCoastalHoliday Christmas Bazaar Through Dec 15 Old Town Association: Marty O’Reilly and delnorte.org 541- Marketplace 541-347-3206; the Old Soul Orchestra portofbandon.com 247-2848; pistolriver.com www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 81 The road winds along the ocean, looking south from Cape Sebastian. —Larry Geddis Full Hookup RV Sites * Beach Cottages with Kitchen & Private Spas * Private Decks * Hot Tubs * Barbeque Grills * Laundry & Shower * Free WiFi * Cable TV * Vacation Home for 8 guests with Gourmet Kitchen & Hot Tubs * Large Group Facility Room * Ocean & Forested Views Pet- friendly and a lot more!!!

www.TurtleRockResorts.com * (541) 247.9203 * [email protected] 28788 Hunter Creek Loop, Gold Beach, OR 97444 FLORENCE, OREGON Rivers, Lakes, & Ocean • Nat’l Dunes Recreation Area

541-997-7777 Serving the Oregon Coast Since 1956 www.cbcoast.com

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Waterfront & Golf Course Properties For Sale in the Florence Area

SALE PENDING

MERCER LAKEFRONT OLD TOWN RIVERFRONT 18TH HOLE OCEAN DUNES SILTCOOS LAKEFRONT Dowell’s Peninsula, wind protected. Heritage 1900’s home with apartment 4000 square foot estate-type Vintage circa 1938 cabin on the Move-in ready cabin. on river in Old Town. Cape Cod with home theater. lake–ready to enjoy. $411,000 $665,000 $952,000 $349,000

5TH HOLE FLORENCE GOLF LINKS WOAHINK LAKEFRONT MERCER LAKEFRONT WITH DOCK SUTTON LAKEFRONT 2700 square feet. 1 owner home. Built for comfort & entertaining. Perfect cabin getaway escape. Classic ’60s vintage cabin with Northwest contemporary. Amazing golf course views. Boat house & dock. Sleeps a bunch! modern amenities. Move-in ready. Southern exposure with dock. $425,000 $465,000 $475,000 $649,000

WOAHINK LAKEFRONT OCEANFRONT CABIN DEEPWATER RIVERFRONT WOAHINK LAKEFRONT LOT 4 car garage, covered boat 1400 square feet. Vintage 1970’s 2200+ square foot fortress. With new all-weather dock. 1.21 acre. dock with lift. Amazing home. cabin. Miles of sandy beach await. Covered RV parking. Boat to ocean! All underground utilities available. $649,950 $429,900 $525,000 $229,000