ASTORIA: FOODIE RENAISSANCE & ULTIMATE GETAWAY www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Carefree Living FIND YOUR DREAM HOME COAST BUCKET LIST ✓ BUILD A BOAT ✓ FISH THE JETTIES FALL 2018 ✓ HIKE A NEW TRAIL RESORT Stay & Dine on the Ocean’s Edge! Large Indoor Pool & Sauna • Full Restaurant & Lounge Pet Friendly Rooms Available • Unique Gift Shop Weddings • Groups • Reunions A FAMILY DESTINATION! BOOK YOUR MEMORIES TODAY . adoberesort.com 1555 Hwy 101 N Yachats, OR 97498 800-522-3623 TABLE OF CONTENTS FALL 2018 48 48 HOURS IN ASTORIA— Spend a fun weekend FISHING THE ROCKS—Fishing off a jetty is 36in this Columbia River town that offers fascinating 62affordable, relatively easy, and doesn’t require a history along with great restaurants, breweries, and art boat. —Cheryl Wanner galleries. —Marie Sherlock WOODCRAFTER’S PARADISE—At the Coos Bay ASTORIA’S RESTAURANT RENAISSANCE— 66 Boatbuilding Center, you can build everything from 44 a wooden spoon to a red cedar canoe. —Tom Baake From Bosnian comfort food to innovative Northwest cuisine, you’ll find a multitude of options in Astoria’s TIDAL MARSHES— burgeoning restaurant 70 Salt marshes, scene. —Dwight Caswell important contributors to the coastal ecosystem, are wonderful places to observe CAREFREE COASTAL LIVING— If you’re looking birds and the ebb and flow of 48 for an investment that offers views and amenities, tides. —Gail Oberst but not a lot of upkeep, consider a property managed by a homeowners association. —Gail Oberst THE MARKET, 54 THEN AND 62 DEPARTMENTS NOW—Alicia Spooner Coast Lines looks at the coastal real 6 estate market 30 years 8 Incoming Tide after she and her husband Galleries bought this magazine in 10 1988. —Alicia Spooner 12 Take a Hike Sitka Sedge 14 Marine Life Puget Sound Kind Crab ON THE COVER: .A beautiful home in Oceanside, right on the 16 Coastal Happenings beach. —Courtesy Pam Zeilinsky 76 Calendar of Events www.oregoncoastmagazine.com OREGON COAST Fall 2018 3 Writers & Photographers Larry Andreasen lives on the Oregon Adams, his photographs have been Gail Oberst and her family founded Coast and enjoys taking and sharing his exhibited nationally. the Oregon Beer Growler, a craft beer photos from around the state of Oregon. magazine based in Oregon. She is a free- Dennis Frates is an Oregon photogra- lance writer, editor, and publisher as well Tom Baake is a Coos Bay area writer and pher specializing in nature and scenics. as a fifth-generation Oregonian—her photographer who has published three His images have been published in parents were both born on the Oregon South Coast guidebooks available at dozens of national and regional maga- Coast. www.scod.com/guidebooks. zines, calendars, posters, cards, and books. Robert L. Potts has worked in aerial The late Scott Blackman’s photos have photography, wildlands fire and range been published in calendars, websites, Bonnie Henderson is the author of management, and various wildlife billboards, magazines, and the books Day Hiking: Oregon Coast and Strand: An research projects. His photos have Oregon Surfing: Central Coast and Oregon Odyssey of Pacific Ocean Debris. appeared in Oregon Coast, Birder’s World, Surfing: North Coast. Alan Huestis is a professional writer, Country Journal, and many more publi- Joanne Carroll-Huemoeller special- videographer, and photographer from cations. izes in marine life subjects of the Pacific Bend, Oregon. With deep Oregon roots, Marie Sherlock is a Portland, Oregon- Northwest. Her education and marine Alan has spent 25 years shooting all over based freelance writer and author science background led to the publica- the world but his favorite place is the whose work has appeared in Family tion of her work in books, magazines, Oregon Coast—wild, beautiful, mystical. Circle, Seattle’s Child, Money, Portland and calendars. It’s all there along the Coast. Parent, and other magazines. She’s had a lifelong love affair with the Oregon Dwight Caswell is a writer and pho- Larry Geddis has been a resident Coast and writes frequently about its tographer in Astoria. A graduate of of Oregon since 1979 and is a former virtues as a travel destination. Stanford and the University of Chicago, schoolteacher. He now pursues a career he has written extensively about the in outdoor photography and resides in Craig Tuttle is a Portland, Oregon-based north Oregon coast. A student of Ansel Gresham. professional scenic photographer, with four coffee table books and numerous Visit the coast throughout the year calendars to his credit. His first profes- sional photo was published in Oregon Coast magazine in 1984. Cheryl Wanner is a freelance writer and Subscribe to Magazine photographer with a passion for writing YA novels. She lives in McMinnville, Oregon. Each Subscription Includes a Beautiful Scenic Calendar NOTICE TO CONTRIBUTORS Subscribe for 2 years & save even more! ❏ One Year $21.95 ❏ Two Years $35.95 Contributions from writers, photogra- NAME phers, and artists are welcome, but ADDRESS APT the safety or return of unsolicited material cannot be guaranteed. If you CITY STATE ZIP want your materials returned, send a PHONE # self-addressed stamped envelope ❏ MY CHECK IS ENCLOSED ❏ BILL ME DIRECTLY with sufficient postage. We prefer PLEASE CHARGE MY: ❏ AMERICAN EXPRESS ❏ MASTERCARD ❏ VISA story solicitations to be sent by email ACCOUNT # to [email protected] and EXP DATE CSV CODE we prefer photo submissions to be SHIPPING: US NONE CANADIAN $22.50 FOREIGN $46.00 sent by Dropbox. Send invite to FOR FASTER SERVICE, CALL 1-800-348-8401 TOLL FREE [email protected]. 4 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com Stay • Play • Dine on the beach in Lincoln City I 1-877-644-3234 I CHINOOKWINDSCASINO.COM COAST LINES HIRTY YEARS AGO, Rob and I embarked on our adventure to the Oregon Coast, where we had just bought Oregon Coast magazine. Rob Tknew all about publishing a magazine because he had been associate publisher of a great magazine in Seattle called Pacific Northwest. I worked for a CPA firm in Bremerton as an accountant. When I arrived on scene, Russ and Nell Heggen, the previous owners, said, “You’re in charge of the editing. Don’t change anything.” I told them I knew nothing about editing a magazine and they said “It’s easy, just don’t change anything.” Nell showed me a rolling file cabinet and said, “Here are some stories people have sent in. Just go through and pick some out and send them to our editor.” After our editor, Vickie Nelson, was through with the story, she would send it over to the designer. She would put the galleys together and when it was done, I would take it to the printer. It wasn’t very long before I wanted to change something. I wasn’t very happy with the covers and this new photographer, Scott Blackman, had started sending me some amazing photos. I finally got up the nerve and told Betsy, the designer, that I wanted to use one of Scott’s photos for the cover. Scott had a way of catching the abstract and he had done a photo of a kite that framed people standing on a beach. Betsy argued but I managed to get my way. That was the beginning of a great friendship between Scott and our readers. We lost that great friend this summer when Scott Blackman passed away at 80 years old. Scott was born and raised in Waldport. After serving in the military, he became a photographer—and a dedicated surfer— on the central coast. He started taking pictures of local surfers in the early 1960s and never stopped, eventually publishing, with his wife Sandy, two books on Oregon surfing. Besides the many wonderful images that have appeared in this magazine, Scott’s images were featured in national and international publications, including Der Spiegel (Germany’s equivalent of Life magazine), the New York Times Magazine and McGraw-Hill textbooks. One of Scott’s full-page photos appears in this issue on page 9. Also in this issue, Marie Sherlock offers travel-savvy tips on spending a weekend in Astoria (page 36), while Dwight Caswell tempts us with his story on Astoria’s restaurant renaissance (page 44). Gail Oberst shares her love of low-maintenance, high-fun real estate—i.e., condos and townhouses (page 48)—and I wrote a story on how the coastal real estate market has waxed, waned, and waxed again in the 30 years since we bought this magazine (page 54). While researching my real estate article, I came across the publisher’s column that my husband Rob wrote in the October/November 1988 issue. It was so entertaining that we just had to share it with you (see facing page). Among other offerings in the pages ahead, you’ll find a story about tidal marshes, those magical places where saltwater meets fresh, and one about a woodworking center in Coos Bay where you can build every- thing from a simple wooden spoon to a functioning boat. It’s been great fun putting together this issue, and we hope you enjoy it as much as we did! Alicia Spooner Follow us on Twitter at OregonCoastMag Follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/OregonCoastMagazine 6 Fall 2018 OREGON COAST www.oregoncoastmagazine.com PUBLISHER Alicia Spooner [email protected] EDITOR Rosemary Howe Camozzi [email protected] MANAGING EDITOR Emily Kolkemo [email protected] ART DIRECTOR Darcy Jeffs AD DESIGNER zPaula Korte ADVERTISING SALES Long Beach, WA thru Tillamook County Jaci Spooner 541-999-7083 [email protected] Lincoln County thru Bandon Marji Brown 541-999-7616 [email protected] Port Orford thru Northern CA Barbara Ciaramella 541-661-2117 [email protected] AD COORDINATOR Marji Brown [email protected] DISTRIBUTION Subscription questions Lyn Winona [email protected] www.OregonCoastMagazine.com TO RENEW, SUBSCRIBE OR CHANGE ADDRESS Go online to ocm.magserv.com or call 818-286-3163 or send to Oregon Coast Magazine, P.O.