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Ecuador: the Northwestern Andean Slopes

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Ecuador: the Northwestern Andean Slopes ECUADOR: THE NORTHWESTERN ANDEAN SLOPES NOVEMBER 9–17, 2019 Velvet-purple Coronet © David O. Wilbur LEADER: PAUL GREENFIELD LIST COMPILED BY: PAUL GREENFIELD VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM ECUADOR: THE NORTHWESTERN ANDEAN SLOPES NOVEMBER 9–17, 2019 By Paul Greenfield Shining Sunbeam/Yanacocha Reserve © Paul J. Greenfield Despite an intense few weeks of heavy rainfall and thick fog in the Northwestern region of Ecuador, our Northwestern Andean Slopes Tour managed to escape the ‘bad’ weather for the most part of our adventure… well, all but on our first afternoon when a ‘diluvial’ downpour converted the Paseo del Quinde Ecoroute into veritable white-water rapids! Overall, it did seem that many bird species were impacted by these severe climate conditions, although in spite of these uncontrollable conditions, we enjoyed a very successful experience, as can always be expected in this avian mega-rich country. This year’s itinerary took us to many excellent sites, including Yanacocha Reserve, San Tadeo Birding (“Casa Rolando”), Milpe Bird Sanctuary, Amagusa-Mashpi Reserve, Refugio Paz de las Aves, Milpe Gardens, Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Suamox, “los Loros Locos,” the Paseo del Quinde Ecoroute, Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Ecuador: Northwestern Andean Slopes, 2019 Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve, Puyucunapi, and Alambi Cloud Forest Reserve, with six nights at our ‘hub,’ Séptimo Paraíso. An important part of this region’s allure are the inspiring locally-run birding ‘enterprises’ that have sprouted throughout this zone—we visited many of them and were duly impressed to say the least! Highlights and memorable moments were many and began piling up almost immediately as we headed up to over 11,000 ft. altitude to Yanacocha Reserve, flushing a Short-eared Owl on the way. We were greeted instantly by a spectacle of whirring wings, color, and constant activity; a hefty Andean Guan was the first visitor to show itself at the plantain feeders, while the nectar feeders were ablaze with a Tyrian Metaltail, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Shining Sunbeams, Buff-winged Starfrontlets, a bizarre Sword-billed Hummingbird, and several Great Sapphirewings that dizzied us as they fed, fought, and jetted about around us. Some of the additional species that came to the plantains and ‘bird-bath’ (an old tire filled with rain-water) to offer generous point-blank views included a Tawny Antpitta, Gray-browed and a pair of Yellow-breasted (Rufous-naped) brushfinches, an out-of-range pair of White-lined Tanagers, Black-chested and Scarlet-bellied mountain-tanagers, along with Glossy and Masked flowerpiercers (by the dozens!). We eventually pulled ourselves away from this ‘catwalk’ and took the main trail to another set of nectar feeders, with additional looks at many of the Black-chested Mountain-Tanager/Yanacocha © Paul J. Greenfield species we had already encountered but adding several others—including a close but (unfortunately) unsatisfactory view at the rare, endemic and Critically Endangered Black- breasted Puffleg along with good looks at Golden-breasted Puffleg, Rufous Antpitta, Rufous Wren, and Spectacled Whitestart (Redstart). After sitting down for our field lunch back at the first feeders (with more fine birds), we headed off down slope towards our final destination. As we descended, we spotted a perched Plumbeous Pigeon, a Black Phoebe, and a White- capped Dipper at a local trout farm along the Ecoroute before torrential rain rendered any hope of actually birding impossible (perhaps Class V white-water rafting would have been our Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Ecuador: Northwestern Andean Slopes, 2019 best option!). The rain eventually subsided to a mere drizzle as we neared our lodge— Séptimo Paraíso—and a recent boreal migrant arrival Broad-winged Hawk perched calmly right along the road. We settled in to our center of operations, did our first day’s checklist, enjoyed dinner, and, well…“let the games begin.” Our following morning, and day, could be labeled as a somewhat easy intro to Ecuador’s west slope. We began with a pre-breakfast walk; then afterwards we drove over to Milpe Bird Sanctuary; and after lunch back at Séptimo we drove a short way over to ‘Casa Rolando’ (San Tadeo Birding). We enjoyed some close looks and an exhilarating warm-up to what was to come: Band-tailed Pigeons and White-tipped Dove; hummingbirds galore, including White- whiskered Hermit; Lesser (Green) Violetear; Green Thorntails; Violet-tailed Sylphs (so cool!); Brown Inca; Buff-tailed and (mind-blowing!) Velvet-purple coronets; charming (White-) Booted Racket-tails; Purple-bibbed Whitetips; Fawn-breasted, Green-crowned, and (the rather scarce) Empress brilliants; only 1 Purple-throated Woodstar; Crowned Woodnymphs; Andean Emeralds; and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds; flocks of Cattle Egrets; Roadside Hawk; Red- headed Barbets; Pale-mandibled (Collared) Araçaris; Yellow-throated (Chestnut-mandibled) Toucans; Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner; Red-faced Spinetails; Ornate Flycatcher; Black-and- white Becard; Brown-capped and Chiví (Red-eyed) vireos; Swainson’s and Ecuadorian thrushes; Thick-billed and Orange-bellied euphonias; Tricolored (Chocó) Brushfinch; Scrub Blackbird; Chocó (Golden-bellied) Warbler; Slate-throated Whitestart (Redstart); Ochre- breasted Tanager; White-lined and Lemon- (Flame-) rumped tanagers; Blue-winged and Black-chinned mountain-tanagers; Blue-gray, Palm, Rufous-throated, Golden-naped, Black- capped, Flame-faced, Golden, and Silver-throated tanagers; Green Honeycreepers; Masked Flowerpiercer; Variable Seedeater; Bananaquit; along with Buff-throated and Black-winged saltators also among the species we were overwhelmed by. Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager © David O. Wilbur The following morning we headed out fairly early for a drive northward and slightly farther west to Amagusa-Mashpi Reserve, where a very sweet local couple are creating what I can only describe as a “great birding experience.” Doris greeted us, as did a parade of colorful Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Ecuador: Northwestern Andean Slopes, 2019 forest denizens, which included many more, and even closer looks, at some of the special hummingbirds we saw yesterday. Special highlights included close studies of a Crimson- rumped Toucanet; a breathtaking pair of Toucan Barbets; Moss-backed, Glistening-green, and more Rufous-throated tanagers; Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers; Golden-collared Honeycreepers; and Black-winged Saltators along with many other species. A Golden- headed Quetzal rocketed past us too! Then along the road we picked up Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Spotted Barbtail, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Tawny-breasted Flycatcher, a foraging pair of Orange-breasted Fruiteaters, Golden-winged Manakins, Cinnamon Becard, Yellow-throated Chlorospingus (Bush-Tanager), Three-striped Warblers, a responsive, entertaining, and displaying Club-winged Manakin, and a lovely active Indigo Flowerpiercer. After some waiting, a White-tipped Sicklebill paid its respects to a cluster of Heliconia flowers…a real treat! In the afternoon, back at Séptimo Paraíso, a pair of Crested Guans and a Tawny-bellied Hermit showed themselves. Toucan Barbet © Paul J. Greenfield Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Ecuador: Northwestern Andean Slopes, 2019 Orange-breasted Fruiteater © Paul J. Greenfield Our morning at ‘Refugio Paz de las Aves’ was truly memorable indeed with, among the many sightings, splendid views of an active Lek of Andean Cocks-of-the-rock (just for starters!), an adorable pair of Dark-backed Wood-Quails, flower-puncturing White-throated Wedgebills, a full-on view of Golden-headed Quetzal, a nesting pair of Masked Trogons, and the main show—Giant (“María”), Chestnut-crowned (“Andreita”), Yellow-breasted (“Wilemina”), and a pair of Ochre-breasted (“Chaquira” and her boy-friend) antpittas—which entailed moving from place to place while we waited for Angel and his brother Rodrigo to do their magic…true Antpitta-whisperers! Other ‘new’ species seen there included Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, White-winged Brushfinch, Blackburnian Warblers, a male Summer Tanager, Golden Grosbeaks, and Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers, many seen as we enjoyed a late home- made breakfast of ‘Bolón de Verde’ and ‘Empanadas de Viento.’ The following day took us to two lower elevation, tropical lowland sites—Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary and Suamox— where we first hung-out for much of the morning atop their canopy tower, reveling in some super close looks at whatever came our way…which was a lot. Ruddy and the Chocó endemic Dusky pigeons, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, Purple-crowned Fairy (perched), Blue- chested and Purple-chested hummingbirds, Broad-billed Motmot, a pair of White-necked Puffbirds, Chocó Toucan, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, a fly-by Lineated Woodpecker, Blue- Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Ecuador: Northwestern Andean Slopes, 2019 Giant Antpitta (“María”) at Refugio Paz de las Aves © Paul J. Greenfield Headed and Bronze-winged parrots, a band of Chocó (Maroon-tailed) Parakeets, Streak- headed Woodcreeper, Boat-billed and Rusty-margined flycatchers, Masked Tityra, a pair of the scarce Slaty Becard, an amazingly close Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Chiví Vireo, and a Tropical Gnatcatcher. Later we walked the reserve’s main forest trail where we encountered Check-throated and White-flanked antwrens; Plain Xenops; Yellow-crowned, Sooty-headed, and Chocó tyrannulets; Ochre-breasted Flycatcher; more Common Tody-Flycatchers; a male White-bearded Manakin; a singing
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