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SETTEMBRE 2018 DELLA L Civiltà Tavola ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA N ISSN 1974-2681 SETTEMBRE 2018 DELLA l CIVILTÀ TAVOLA ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA N. 307 MENSILE, POSTE ITALIANE SPA SPEDIZIONE IN ABBONAMENTO POSTALE 70% ROMA AUT MP-AT/C/RM/ 70% ROMA AUT MP-AT/C/RM/ SPEDIZIONE IN ABBONAMENTO POSTALE SPA MENSILE, POSTE ITALIANE ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA ISTITUZIONE CULTURALE DELLA REPUBBLICA ITALIANA FONDATA NEL 1953 DA ORIO VERGANI www.accademia1953.it CIVILTÀ DELLA TAVOLA CIVILTÀ N. 307, SETTEMBRE 2018/ SOMMARIO FOCUS 24 Innovazione nella tradizione (Claudio Novelli) 3 Contrordine compagni! La Dieta Mediterranea fa male 25 Cibo e cultura in Ungheria (Paolo Petroni) (Giovanna Mandato Leahy) 26 Anolini e cappelletti L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA CULTURA & RICERCA è stata fondata nel 1953 da Orio Vergani (Claudio Saporetti) e da Luigi Bertett, Dino Buzzati Traverso, 4 La rivoluzione rossa Cesare Chiodi, Giannino Citterio, Ernesto Donà 27 Il formaggio in tavola (Morello Pecchioli) dalle Rose, Michele Guido Franci, Gianni Mazzocchi (Ruggero Larco) Bastoni, Arnoldo Mondadori, Attilio Nava, Arturo Orvieto, Severino Pagani, Aldo Passante, 6 Il piacere di condividere Gian Luigi Ponti, Giò Ponti, Dino Villani, 29 Novel food Edoardo Visconti di Modrone, (Elisabetta Cocito) con Massimo Alberini e Vincenzo Buonassisi. (Angelo Fasulo) 8 Profondo rosa (Adriana Liguori Proto) 20 Dal vigneto alla cantina SICUREZZA & QUALITÀ (Nicola Barbera) 10 Perfezione dell’uovo 31 Il burro torna di moda (Myriam Fonti Cimino) 22 Che ne sai tu (Gabriele Gasparro) di un campo di grano... 12 La ciliegia, nutraceutico (Gianfranco Venora) naturale LE RUBRICHE (Flavio Dusio) 23 Calendario accademico 14 L’insalata di Maramao 30 Accademici in primo piano (Giovanni Ballarini) 32 In libreria 33 Dalle Delegazioni 16 Le lumache del Gargano 43 Vita dell’Accademia (Giuseppe Trincucci) 67 Carnet degli Accademici 70 International Summary 18 Cucina futurista (Roberto Branconi) In copertina: Elaborazione grafica dell’opera “Natura morta con cesto di frutta” (1850), di Paul Cézanne, Museo d’Orsay, Parigi. In copertina appare un Codice QR o QR Code, cioè uno di quei codici a barre con la forma quadrata che possono essere letti tramite le fotocamere dei cellulari e degli smartphone Android e iPhone. Quando trovate un QR Code potrete usare un’applicazione del vostro iPhone o smartphone con la fotocamera per decodificarlo e vedere cosa nasconde. Per leggere i codici QR è necessaria anche un’applicazione per la scansione, da installare sullo smartphone Android o su iPhone, che permette, puntando la fotocamera sul codice, di estrarre e decodificare le informazioni. Su Android potrete utilizzare, per esempio, la app BarCode Scanner, mentre su iPhone e iPad potrete scegliere I-Nigma oppure QR Reader. Basta far leggere a tablet o smartphone il codice QR in copertina, e immediatamente il dispositivo si collega al sito dell’Accademia. Dai prossimi numeri della rivista poi, con i QR Code che verranno pubblicati, potrete accedere a nuovi e interessanti contenuti interattivi del sito dell’Accademia. I DELEGATI IN ITALIA (NORD) VALLE D’AOSTA Andrea Nicola (Aosta) l Jean-Claude Mochet (Monterosa) PIEMONTE Tino Cornaglia (Alba Langhe) l Luigi Carlo Michele Bussolino (Alessandria) l Piero Bava (Asti) l Maria Luisa Bertotto (Biella) l Franco Gerardi (Ciriè) l Ermanno Mauro (Cuneo-Saluzzo) l Giuseppe Clerici (Ivrea) l Piero Spaini (Novara) l Alberto Negro (Pinerolo) l Mauro Felice Frascisco (Torino) l Paoletta Picco (Torino Lingotto) l Pier Carlo Lincio (Verbano-Cusio-Ossola) l Paola Bernascone (Vercelli) LIGURIA Roberto Pirino (Albenga e del Ponente Ligure) l Manuel Macrì (Genova) l Guglielmo Valobra (Genova-Golfo Paradiso) l Marinella Curre Caporuscio (La Spezia) l Giuseppe Ghiglione (Riviera dei Fiori) l Aldo Saroldi (Savona) l Nicolò Gandolfo (Tigullio) LOMBARDIA Patrizia Zanotti (Alto Mantovano e Garda Bresciano) l Franco Rossi (Alto Milanese) l Lucio Piombi (Bergamo) l Giuseppe Masserdotti (Brescia) l Roberto Mutti (Brescia-Terre dei Fontanili) l Filiberto Fayer (Crema) l Marco Petecchi (Cremona) l Enzo Pomentale (Lariana) l Claudio Bolla (Lecco) l Bruno Balti (Lodi) l Omero Araldi (Mantova) l Dino Betti van der Noot (Milano) l Nicola Rivani Farolfi (Milano Brera) l Maria Luisa Mandelli (Milano Duomo) l Giovanni Battista Spezia (Milano Navigli) l Doda Fontana Gulfi (Monza e Brianza) l Giuseppe Rossetti (Pavia) l Massimo Damini (Sabbioneta-Terre Destra Oglio) l Giovanni Canu (Vallecamonica) l Claudio Borroni (Varese) l Pier Costante Ferrari (Vigevano e della Lomellina) l Luisa Porrati (Voghera-Oltrepò Pavese) TRENTINO - ALTO ADIGE Isabella Jone Beretta (Bolzano) l Piergiorgio Baruchello (Bressanone) l Raoul Ragazzi (Merano) l Germano Berteotti (Rovereto) l Stefano Hauser (Trento) VENETO Renzo Rizzi (Alto Vicentino) l Brenno Dal Pont (Belluno-Feltre-Cadore) l Susanna Tagliapietra (Colli Euganei-Basso Padovano) l Monica De Mattia (Cortina d’Ampezzo) l Umberto Parodi (Legnago-Basso Veronese e Polesine Ovest) l Edmondo Matter (Padova) l Guidalberto di Canossa (Riviera Veronese del Garda) l Giorgio Golfetti (Rovigo-Adria-Chioggia) l Teresa Perissinotto (Treviso) l Nazzareno Acquistucci (Treviso-Alta Marca) l Rosa Maria Rossomando Lo Torto (Venezia) l Franco Zorzet (Venezia Mestre) l Fabrizio Farinati (Verona) l Raffaele Cavalli (Vicenza) FRIULI - VENEZIA GIULIA Roberto Zottar (Gorizia) l Diego Paschina (Muggia-Capodistria) l Stefano Zanolin (Pordenone) l Paolo Penso (Trieste) l Massimo Percotto (Udine) EMILIA ROMAGNA Guido Mascioli (Bologna) l Atos Cavazza (Bologna-San Luca) l Giorgio Palmeri (Bologna dei Bentivoglio) l Giovanni Spartà (Borgo Val di Taro) l Pier Paolo Veroni (Carpi-Correggio) l Andrea Stanzani (Castel San Pietro-Firenzuola) l Roberto Vicenzi (Cento-Città del Guercino) l Bruno Pollini (Cervia-Milano Marittima) l Gianluigi Trevisani (Cesena) l Leonardo Colafiglio (Faenza) l Luca Padovani (Ferrara) l Loris Camprini (Forlì) l Antonio Gaddoni (Imola) l Fabio Monducci (Lugo di Romagna) l Mario Baraldi (Modena) l Gioacchino Giovanni Iapichino (Parma) l Giulio Dall’Olio (Parma-Bassa Parmense) l Andrea Albertini (Parma Terre Alte) l Nicola Ronchini (Piacenza) l Gloria Gasperini (Ravenna) l Davide Rossi (Ravenna Romea) l Anna Marmiroli (Reggio Emilia) l Fabio Giavolucci (Riccione-Cattolica) l Luisa Maria Bartolotti (Rimini) l Roberto Tanzi (Salsomaggiore Terme) l Rosalba Caffo Dallari (Terre Modenesi) pagina 2 F CUS Contrordine compagni! La Dieta Mediterranea fa male L’ONU vuole tassare olio e formaggi, compresa la mozzarella di bufala. di Paolo Petroni Presidente dell’Accademia orse, qualcuno tra i meno giovani ricorderà le vignette che, quando è rosso, vuol dire “stop”: mangi questo tocchetto surreali della serie “Contrordine compagni”, pubblicate di parmigiano a tuo rischio e pericolo. C’è troppo sale ed è F da Giovannino Guareschi, sulle pagine di “Candido”, troppo grasso. Stesso stop anche per la mozzarella di bu- allo scopo di prendere in giro l’obbedienza cieca, pronta e fala. Non parliamo dei micidiali prosciutti e altri affettati e assoluta al partito. Ci è venuta in mente questa antica esor- persino la pizza napoletana, premiata dall’Unesco, avrebbe tazione leggendo la notizia che l’ONU vuole tassare olio e il bollino rosso. Vini off limits. Insomma, la tanto decantata formaggi perché fanno male. L’ordine rivolto a noi beoti era Dieta Mediterranea, in pratica, diventerebbe sinonimo di chiaro: la Dieta Mediterranea, riconosciuta dall’Unesco come un’alimentazione scorretta che mette a rischio la nostra salute. patrimonio dell’umanità nel 2010, fa molto bene alla salute e Ma siccome beoti non siamo, si comprende benissimo cosa c’è allunga la vita. Questo regime alimentare privilegia cereali, dietro tutto questo: l’interesse enorme delle multinazionali frutta, verdura e olio d’oliva e consente un uso moderato di dei prodotti alimentari, oltre al disinteresse della nostra poli- latticini e vino. Fesserie! L’Organizzazione mondiale della tica che di solito si sveglia, stupita, quando la frittata è fatta, sanità vuole invece tassare olio d’oliva, formaggio grana e frittatona con tante uova e parecchio sale. Alt. Bollino rosso. vino. Attacco micidiale ai prodotti italiani e cuccagna per i Come Accademia cercheremo di dare una mano a contenere prodotti light, dietetici, delle grandi industrie multinaziona- questa follia, coinvolgendo pure l’Académie Européenne de li. E siccome siamo, appunto, beoti, è bene usare per legge la Gastronomie, anche se i tempi si sono fatti davvero stretti. etichette semplici, senza tanti numeri. Un bel semaforone See English text page 70 pagina 3 CULTURA & RICERCA La rivoluzione rossa Sarà stato il fuoco del vulcano sotto le radici, o i raggi del sole campano, fatto sta che il pomodoro uscì da quelle zolle perfetto come Venere. di Morello Pecchioli Centro Studi “Franco Marenghi” i sbròdolo d’immensa. “L’im- gio che aveva trovato casa sui terreni I prodromi della rivoluzione pomodo- mensa rossa”, la salsa di po- vulcanici della piana del Sarno, con resca li accese Felipe Manuel Cayetano Mmodoro, meraviglioso dono superba vista sul Vesuvio. Lì aveva in- de Amat y Junyent, viceré del Perù per degli dei, condimento con il più alto dividuato il santo protettore, San Mar- grazia concessa da Carlo III re di Spagna. quoziente di bontà, ricambia l’amore zano, e scelto il popolo cui essere fede- Felipe inviò in omaggio a Ferdinando con trasporto. Se, avvinghiata agli spa- le, in vita e in morte: il napoletano. IV di Borbone, re di Napoli, nonché figlio ghetti, l’avvolgi nella forchetta con im- Poiché, per certi aspetti, siamo tutti di Carlo III, un bel po’ di doni peruviani paziente voluttà, ti salta addosso. Se, napoletani, il pomodoro abbracciò vo- per tenersi caro il rampollo del sovrano. ingordo, inzuppi un boccon di pane nel lentieri anche gli altri italiani. Grati di Tra gli altri, spiccavano i semi di quei sugo scarlatto rimasto in fondo al piat- tanto amore, abbiamo ricambiato re- pomi d’oro arrivati in Europa dall’Ame- to, versa lacrime di gioia nei punti non galandogli, unico ortaggio tra tutti, ben rica un paio di secoli prima a bordo coperti dal tovagliolo. Se, goloso, ti ac- tre plurali: pomidori, pomidoro, pomo- delle navi di Hernàn Cortés, ma che, costi alla pentola dove gorgoglia per dori.
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