Volume 25, Number 3 - Fall 2018 An Indigo-Adire Workshop with

the Man Who Could Be King Creating A Connected This past April, members of the Rocky Moun- into a life in indigo with a broom straw, a CreatingCreatingTextile Community aA Connected Connected tain Weavers Guild had an opportunity to learn knife, and a feather. about Adire Eleko: Indigo Resist Dyeing with TextileTextile CommunityCommunity cassava paste from Gasali Adeyemo, master A Deep History dyer from Nigeria. This article originally ap- Gasali began his indigo journey as a peared in the Guild Newsletter. To foster a global network of young man, mentored by his mother, who To fosterenthusiasts a global network who value of enthusiaststhe Judy Newland is now an 83 year- who value the importance of textiles to You were expecting a story of indigo, importance of textiles to grassroots old midwife. Learn- grassrootseconomies economies paste resist, and fabulous fabric produced ing the techniques in a workshop, right? And this is that of adire and indigo dyeing has shaped who he is and his Exchange information path through life. Exchange information His father, a farmer, RaiseRaise awareness awareness of of the the importance importance of told him that he textiletextile traditions traditions to grassroots to grassroots economies must do what he economies Mobilize textile enthusiasts Nigerian indigo ball. loved and stick with Mobilize textile enthusiasts 105 indigo balls went it, but it would not Create conversations that result in action into our dye pot be easy. There are Create conversations that result in three tribes in Ni- action geria – the Yoruba, Ibo, and Hausa. Gasali belongs to the Yoruba tribe of SW Nigeria. Gasali visits Nigeria at least once a year to Textiles are an important component of visit his family and Textilesthe are humanan important experience. component check on the village. of the human experience. He has provided Networking and sharing information funds to dig a well Networkingcreates and an environment sharing information for for the community createsconstructive an environment action. for and hopes to find a constructive action. Our inspiring tour leader, Gasali Adeyemo Making connections between textile way to create a small artisans worldwide promotes positive story…but wrapped in a cultural cloth to Making Connections between clinic needed partic- social change. be explored layer by layer. The magical ularly by the elders textile artisans worldwide promotes mystery tour of Nigerian indigo dyed adire Interactingpositive with people social change. who have similar of the village. Deep blue indigo dye pot cloth, with Gasali Adeyemo as our guide, Interactingvalues withenriches people our who lives. have weaves over and under, tugging us deep continued on page 11 similar values enriches our lives.

1 WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 On the Border with Christine Eber 10 July 2018 Living for a year in1987 in Margarita’s Tonight I’m volunteering in the donated home in a Maya community in Chiapas, I fol- clothing room at Peace Lutheran Church lowed Margarita’s example and slept in my in Las Cruces, New Mexico, helping moth- huipil and skirt and only loosened my wide ers from Central America find clothes to cumberband a little. I don’t think that Mar- WARP Newsletter replace the garita ever loosened her belt at night. It had published quarterly by clothing they become a part of her body’s armature, giving Weave A Real Peace crossed the her a sense of security and comfort. Volume 25, Number 3 border in. I Now I only wear loose clothing, but that Fall 2018 immediately year of learning about dress and identity Editor: Linda Temple realize that in Chiapas helps me understand the Triqui the women’s woman and the young mothers from Cen- Send address ankle moni- tral America. corrections to: tors present a [email protected] problem. My 11 July 2018 or mail to friend Mary This morning after the women and their Weave a Real Peace and I try to children have eaten their first good break- 5753 Hwy 85 North #3044 help them fast in who knows how long, Mary and I go Crestview, FL 32536 find pants through the tubs of mostly large, unfash- that are ionable blouses and start a special tub of The deadline for loose at the the smallest and prettiest blouses. contributions to the This photo of Margarita putting ankle, but Later this month when the next group of Winter issue of the WARP on a belt over her skirt appears refugee mothers arrive at Peace Lutheran we newsletter is in Our Clothing/K’utik/Nues- the women October 19, 2018 tra Ropa, a book in English, want to wear will go to that tub to find blouses that make Tsotsil, and Spanish produced by clothes that them feel attractive on the buses and airplanes Send articles and weavers in Tsobol Antsetik of San make them that will carry them to their host families. correspondence for Pedro Chenalhó, Chiapas. The feel attrac- We wish them Godspeed on this next the newsletter to: book is available for purchase at tive, not step toward a better life for themselves and Linda Temple http://weaving-for-justice.org/ stretched- their children. 1230 NE 70 out sweat Christine Eber Oklahoma City, OK 73111 pants that no one wants anymore. So, Mary [email protected] takes scissors to the seam of a pair of jeans In response to the crisis on the border, 405/478-4936 (phone) a woman has chosen and we hope she can members of the Weaving for Justice steer- get it over her leg after she takes a shower. ing committee are doing what they can. I’m grateful for this chance to help these Crystal is helping lawyers reunite par- Information about an mothers recover a small part of their hu- ents and children separated at the border. organization or service in manity that was stripped from them in de- Christine, Mary, and Sarah, of our steering this newsletter does not tention and to remember how important committee, are volunteering with refugee constitute an endorsement clothing is to identity. hospitality at Peace Lutheran Church in by WARP. While helping the women, I am remind- Las Cruces. To donate to this effort at Peace ed of a Triqui grandmother who fled para- Lutheran Church go to Amazon.com and Submissions may be military violence in Oaxaca several years find Wish List for Border Servant Corps. To edited or shortened at the donate to Annunciation House, one of the discretion of the editor. ago. She was placed in a jail in El Paso where she was forced to wear a blue jumpsuit (blue four NGOs in the U.S. currently receiving re- indicates low security risk, yellow medium, united parents and children and then send- and red high). In the following weeks, she ing them to area shelters in El Paso and Las became increasingly stressed without the Cruces, including Peace Lutheran, please wide belt that she was accustomed to wear- go to this link: https://annunciationhouse. ing to hold up her traditional skirt. But the org/financial-donations/ Your donation to guards wouldn’t let her wear her belt over Annunciation House can also be sent in the her jumpsuit. They probably thought she form of a check made out to Annunciation might try to hang herself with it. House and sent to: Annunciation House, 815 Myrtle Avenue , El Paso, TX 79901. 2 WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 From WARP’s President Susan Weltman While I am still glowing with pleasure friends and meet new ones. For the first thinking of our Annual Meeting in Deco- time, in addition to our two Scholarship Weave A Real Peace rah, I feel I must begin this letter with an Students we had three Assistants who Membership expression of my grief and dismay at the received some support for helping at the Information detentions meeting. The attendance at the meeting www.weavearealpeace.org and forced was a reminder that our members live all removal of over the country; members who some- 2017 Annual Dues children from times have difficulty getting to meetings $50 - Individual in US/Canada their parents on the East or West Coast were able to $90 - 2 year special - Individual US/ Canada at our South- drive from all throughout the Midwest. $40 - International Individual ern border. And some of us, like me, learned how Simple living - Choose an amount WARP mem- beautiful northeast Iowa is! you can live with bers work closely with many citizens of We are actively planning our 2019 Latin America, and we know the efforts Meeting in Washington, DC with the $50 - Guilds/Organization people make to remain at home, with their theme of “Empowerment of Women is a $30 - Sister/Gift Subscriptions families and deeply ingrained cultures. Path to Peace.” We have a great Planning $75 - Business $75 - Supporting Individual People leave their homelands and families Committee and almost too many won- $100 - Friend of WARP only out of desperation and despair. At derful ideas. We will be having a day trip $150+ - Patron of WARP our meeting we heard an account of the to a museum; while the Textile Museum effects of a 2008 raid on the meat packing might seem like the logical choice, we are All memberships are for 12 months, and plant near Decorah, about the adults ar- exploring what will be on exhibit at other expire 12 months from date of joining. rested, many of them deported or jailed, DC museums. We are also considering an and its effect on the economy and lives of optional Sunday afternoon trip for those Members have access to annual Membership those living in this one small town. who plan to spend another day in town. Directory through a secure The times in which we are living give And we’re planning lots of time to hang ‘members-only’ section of the web ever greater urgency to the work done by out and socialize; as the evaluations of the site, a quarterly newsletter, and can members of WARP and their supporters. 2018 meeting confirmed, that is really im- participate in the WARP Google We had a fabulous meeting; the speak- portant to us all! Discussion Group. ers were outstanding and we celebrated What’s in this Newsletter... the 25th Anniversary of WARP. We had an Dues are used for printing, mailing, The Man Who Could Be King...... 1 and office expenses. Weave A Real amazing silent auction and Marketplace – Peace (WARP) is designated a 501(c)(3) and we had the opportunity to greet old On the Border with Christine Eber...... 2 President’s Column...... 3 nonprofit organization by the Internal WARP’s New Coordinator...... 3 Revenue Service. All donations to WARP are tax deductible in the WARP Has A New Membership Information...... 3 United States. From the Office...... 4 Administrative Coordinator A Word from Thrums...... 4 For membership or additional informa- Sadly, Rita Chapman, who has been Member Profile: Kelsey Wiskirchen.....5 tion, please send your name, address, WARP’s Administrative Coordinator since Social Media Connections...... 5 telephone number, and email address 2015, has decided to explore other ad- Scholarship Students Reflect...... 6 with appropriate check, money order, or Paypal information in US funds ventures. After an extensive search, the New Members...... 6 payable to WARP to: Board is pleased to announce that Kelsey 2018-2019 Newsletter Copy Due...... 6 Wiskirchen is the new Administrator. Textile Techniques: Italy - Weave a Real Peace Kelsey has been a WARP member since Jacquard Looms...... 7 5753 Hwy 85 North #3044 she was selected as an Alice Brown Schol- WARP Annual Update...... 8 Crestview, FL 32536 ar in 2010 and has been active in the or- Minutes - 2018 Annual Meeting...... 9 ganization since. Read more about Kelsey A Leap of Faith...... 10 or join online at http://www.weavearealpeace.org on page 5. Rita and Kelsey will be working FTF Update...... 10 toward a September transition. Thanks, Travel Opportunities...... 10, 11 Rita, for all you’ve done for WARP! And Meeting Photos...... 12 welcome Kelsey! WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 3 From the WARP Office Rita Chapman It has been an honor and a pleasure to so enjoyed getting to know such giving, tal- WARP Governing work with you over the last three years! It’s ented people. I made many positive chang- Board time for me to expand my consulting work es to the way WARP operates, by streamlin- with non-profit organizations. I have much ing some processes, and simplifying others. Philis Alvic to offer and I hope that And I got to travel to Mexico for my first Lexington, KY you will contact me if your time! [email protected] group needs assistance I have such respect for WARP members, Term expires 2018 with strategic and finan- and appreciate that you joined because Dorinda Dutcher cial planning, grant writ- you are optimistic about making positive Bozeman, MT ing, membership growth, change in our world. Many of you work with [email protected] member engagement, allied groups, even better, as it spreads our Term expires 2021 and volunteer leadership development. knowledge even further. That’s what we The time has flown, surely it’s only a few do - we network, share information, edu- Judi Jetson months since I sat in Cindy Lair’s dining cate, advocate, and make people aware not Weaverville, NC [email protected] room in Boulder to talk about the WARP only of what’s happening in the world – but Term expires 2019 administrative coordinator position? I was about what else is possible. already a member for several years, I didn’t WARP’s new mailing address will be: Weave Janice Knausenberger hesitate to apply. Cindy taught me much, a Real Peace, 5753 Hwy 85 North #3044, Crest- Bowie, MD as has Philis Alvic, Linda Temple, Deborah view, FL 32536. The email address will remain: [email protected] Chandler, Judy Newland, Karen Searle, [email protected]. Term expires 2021 Teena Jennings, Kelsey Wiskirchen, and Take care, and let me know how you are Sara Lamb Katie Simmons – and so many others! I’ve at [email protected]! Grass Valley, CA [email protected] Term expires 2019 The Word from Thrums Books Karen Brock Mariana Mace Those of you who attended the annual what participation in the project has meant Corvallis, OR meeting in Decorah, IA, got a sneak peek to them bring the story from economics to [email protected] at our two new fall books: Spider Woman’s heart. Joe Coca’s award-winning photogra- Term expires 2021 Children: Navajo Weavers Today by Lynda phy captures the spirit of the Maya women, Teller Pete and Barbara Teller Ornelas and their art, and their commitment to the orga- Carrie Miller nization and to one another. Ft. Collins, CO Rug Money: How a Group of Maya Women [email protected] Changed Their Lives through Art and Inno- Spider Woman’s Children: Navajo Weav- Term expires 2021 vation, by WARP member Mary Anne Wise ers Today by Lynda Teller Pete and Barbara and Cheryl Conway. Teller Ornelas offers an intimate view into Susan Weltman Rug Money details the creation and the the life of today’s Navajo weavers that will Brooklyn, NY triumph of Multicolores, a rug-hooking inspire and surprise. Twenty profiles rep- [email protected] resenting weavers Term expires 2019 artist cooperative in Guatemala. Through a compelling narrative, from ages sixteen the authors describe to eighty-eight illus- Rita Chapman how they built a busi- trate the beautiful Administrative Coordinator ness framework from and complex world [email protected] within the local culture of contemporary and created success- Navajo life, art, and ful teaching strategies family. The authors that encouraged both are fifth-generation artistic advancement Navajo weavers themselves and they tell as well as personal each weaver’s story with an authentic voice, growth—all while establishing and main- in-depth perspective, and a treasured kin- taining their enterprise as a force in the ship. They deftly explore a world shaped by global marketplace. Poignant individual history and rich cultural traditions. profiles of several of the Maya artists and Visit Thrums Books at https://thrums- books.com/ 4 WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 Meet WARP’s New Administrative Coordinator! Gloria often spends weeks putting together the Member Profile columns, working long distance. This column was submitted prior to Kelsey’s application for and hire as the new Administrative Coordina- tor, which is quite serendipitous for us all! Connect to the WARP Member Profile: Kelsey Wiskirchen Community! @weaveareal- Gloria Miller peace_ “In my first year of graduate school overlooked.” She has had opportunities at Arizona State, the 2010 WARP confer- to work in many cultures and has taught Weave A Real Peace ence was in Arizona when I was awarded all age groups about techniques as well the Alice Brown Memorial Scholarship to as the history and cultural traditions that @WeaveARealPeace attend. At that time, I was becoming aware surround the making and use of cloth. of the context that my textile work fit into - She brings a deep belief in the sense of Weave A Real Peace I was interested in the community aspects connection and ease of conversation that (Google Groups) of people (often women) working together comes with working side by side that has weavearealpeace. to create textiles, and the depth and impact major implications for society as a whole com/blog of this in communities worldwide. Attend- by carrying along the stories and tradi- ing the WARP meeting opened up a whole tions while embracing innovation. “I be- Weave A Real Peace world of information and relationships lieve that textiles can be a vehicle for em- which shaped the direction of my graduate powering communities, and working for Post Your WARP Experiences studies and reconnecting each year at the positive change in our society.” - Social and textile work of annual meeting has become incredibly im- Today Kelsey runs a studio in St. Louis members/yourself - Events from WARP portant to me.” where she offers textile workshops for art meetings Kelsey’s introduction to fiber arts came educators. She plans projects (weaving, - WARP’s history and when she was five or six and her grand- sewing, batik, indigo dyeing, etc.) that long-time members mother taught her to embroider by draw- can be adapted for various age levels, and - New members you’ve met ing flow- provides the teachers with lesson plans so - Events relative to WARP’s ers, then that they can easily integrate textiles into members and mission Kelsey their school curriculum. She also teaches - Local and global textile initiatives stitched for St. Louis ArtWorks, an apprenticeship over the program for at-risk youth that teaches job (Tag posts with @weavear- lines. She and life skills. See her post: http://weavea- ealpeace_ and #weaveareal- has been realpeace.org/warp/spotlight-st-louis- peace for reposting!) embroi- artworks dering Kelsey’s story might spark WARP mem- Be a Social Media Volunteer ever since bers to keep in mind the importance of Interested in writing a guest and con- our student scholarships and encourage post for our blog? Contact tinues to us to be alert for recipients whose lives Judy Newland expand her interest and skills in the fiber might potentially change the way cloth [email protected] arts. She earned a BFA from Truman State and textile artists around the world are University and an MFA from Arizona State. viewed and honored. Would you like to be featured She easily immersed herself in weaving, Kelsey enjoys connecting with WARP on our Instagram? Contact sewing, and surface design as well as in members at [email protected] Nicole Giacomantonio [email protected] the textile traditions of different cultures. Do visit her studio website: www.vio- Along with developing her artistic latextiles.com Interested in helping with the skills, she continues to deepen her under- Gloria Miller is a Sister of Mercy and has been blog or Facebook? Contact standing of the cultural and community working with a knitting group in Peru for many Carrie Miller connections. “We spend our entire lives years. She became connected with WARP when Social Media surrounded by cloth, but I think the sig- she started weaving in 2006 and continues to [email protected] nificance of textiles and the processes enjoy weaving and her weaving connections all Volunteer Coordinator that are used to create them are often over the world. WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 5 Scholarship Students Reflect on WARP Meeting Hellen Maria Ascoli have connected with several WARP mem- A couple months ago a friend, and bers and regained enthusiasm to start on fellow Madison Weaver’s Guild member, a new “weave”. New Members Char Thompson, sent me an email to apply for the Alice Brown Memorial Schol- Md Rashaduzzaman Hellen Ascoli arship to attend this year’s WARP meeting University of Nebraska-Lincoln Madison, WI in Decorah, IA. Having recently moved to I am honored to be one of the recipi- Barbara Berg Madison, WI from Guatemala this email ents of the Alice Brown Memorial Scholar- Decorah, IA and the following scholarship couldn’t ship to attend the WARP Annual Meeting have been better timed! in Decorah, IA. This scholarship helped Betsy Bruce In 2012 I received my M.F.A. from the me in attending the meeting and making Oberlin, OH School of the Art Institute of Chicago, valuable connections with textile enthu- and decided to return to Guatemala, my siasts. Thanks to your generous support. Nancy Ellison home country, wanting to bring together I really enjoyed every single moment at Zumbrota, MN my interests in Contemporary Art / Edu- the WARP meeting. The presentations cation / Craft. For five years I balanced my and discussions on sustainable culture Mary Hark work as Director of Education at Ixchel were extremely helpful in gaining new in- Saint Paul, MN Museum of Indigenous Dress while also formation and sharing knowledge. It was LaDonna Jonsen teaching art through diverse disciplines inspiring how WARP members are work- Decorah, IA at Francisco Marroquín University and at ing so dedicatedly with peoples, especial- Fundación Paiz (a private cultural foun- ly women, in different countries and how Karin Knudsen dation in Guatemala that offers classes in they are transforming their lives as well Minneapolis, MN visual and performing arts and hosts the as the society for good. Thanks for the Paiz Biennial) and continuing my art prac- opportunity to share my work. The visit Maximilian (Max) Koenig tice that centered on the back-strap loom. to Vesterheim, the Norwegian-American London, UK However in 2017, it was time to leave Museum, and Seed Savers International Guatemala again. My husband and I was a great experience and way of learn- Brecia Kralovic-Logan San Diego, CA moved to Madison last summer and I ing. Definitely, the international market- was anxious to find a community that place and live auction will be unforget- Judy Kay Lindholm searched for and understood the richness table. Again, thanks for all your support. I Little Rock, AR of a life that is rooted in a place, commu- will be eagerly waiting to attend the 2019 nity, or tradition. Annual Meeting. Christine LoFaso Since my experience in Decorah, I feel Chicago, IL as I have started to find a place again, as I

Barbara Neebel Meier Decorah, IA Newsletter Copy Deadlines Norma Schafer Durham, NC V25N4 - Winter 2018 – October 19 Judy Shuros V26N1 - Spring 2019 - February 1 Dorchester, IA V26N2 - Summer 2019 - April 19

Lara Smirek V26N3 - Fall 2019 - July 26 Berlin, Germany V26N4 - Winter 2019 - October 11 continued on page 7 Save these dates and send your contributions to the Newsletter! Contact me at [email protected] if you have questions. Thanks!

6 WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 By: Deborah Brandon Thanks to WARP Donors!

Italy - Jacquard Looms Betsy Bruce I paused outside the door of the church Harness looms are limited to repeats of Deborah Chandler of San Francesco delle Dome in Perugia, the the same pattern. Until 1800, the only way Hedy Hollyfield capital of Umbria, Italy. I knocked hesitant- to create more complex patterns was to pick Louise Meyer ly, the sign hadn’t been clear and the stone up each thread by hand. In 1801, Joseph Susan Weltman building was imposing. Was this indeed the Jacquard automated the process. Laboratorio Guiditta Brozzetti? Nowadays, Marta does the work that A diminutive woman with close cropped used to be the job of several skilled artisans. gray hair and deep red lipstick answered, She designs the patterns, often reproduced More new Members greeting me in fluent English though heav- from old paintings, which she then copies Judy van der Linden ily accented—Marta Cucchia. onto graph paper. Next she translates the Decorah, IA I had no idea what her role was in this pattern on the graph paper onto punch handweaving school/museum. Curator? cards, by hand. Joanne Wilkins Teacher? Manager? Director? She then laces the cards together in a Oswego, IL I quickly learnt that she played all those continuous belt which will feed them into roles and more. Marta is a lovely woman, the loom. The cards advance every time a doer, a visionary, vested in her life’s work the weaver steps on the (single) treadle. (photo at lower right). She’s been reproduc- (The punch cards I used in college, in the ing medieval weaving techniques, replicat- early 1980s, to encode computer programs, ing textiles depicted in paintings centuries evolved from Jacquard’s cards.) The holes old. Her pieces, most with images of mythi- in the card control which threads are raised cal creatures such as griffins and dragons, whenever the weaver opens the shed. Each are stunning. row of holes corresponds to a pattern row In addition, hoping to pass on her knowl- and subsequently a woven row. edge to future generations, she teaches Marta, as her mother and grandmother workshops and offers paid apprenticeships. before her, continues Giuditta Brozzetti’s Atelier She gesticulated with her hands, “Other- Museum and more. See their website at http:// wise, all this will die out. We mustn’t let that www.brozzetti.com/ Marta happen.” So dedicated to her work, she continues, Marta’s great grandmother, Giuditta despite still suffering from a hernia from Brozzetti, started the enterprise during lifting 200 lbs worth of metal heddles with World War I, with the purpose of preserv- every row she weaves. ing the traditional Umbrian textiles. She I came away with two fabulous pieces supplemented the income of weavers in she’d woven and a broad smile on my face. the poverty stricken Umbrian countryside, It was a day to remember. by selling their wares in the city. In 1921, she opened a handweaving Resources: workshop, where she provided apprentice- • Cucchia Mart, Laboratorio Guiditta ships to women who wished to learn the Brozzetti, manager, weaver, curator—pri- trade. They learned to weave on four har- vate communication. Lions depicted in the ness looms to reproduce the traditional • Albers Anni, On Weaving, Dover Publi- Medieval style Perugian fabrics, which until then were a cations inc., 1993. cottage industry. (These fabrics are basi- • Baldelli Bombelli Clara A., Arte Tessile cally combinations of a variety of twill pat- Cultura Etradizione Umbra, Laboratorio terns.) In order to revive the production of Deborah Brandon is a multi-talented math- the more complex patterns of the beautiful ematician and former board member. She can damasks of the past, she transformed four be reached at 412/963-7416 or at brandon@ harness looms into Jacquard looms. andrew.cmu.edu WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 7 Special Section: 2018 Annual Update

WARP Annual Update - 2017 - 2018 Judi Jetson Membership WARP received over $2800 in pledges and donations on Giving 293 people are now active members of WARP, with twenty- Tuesday, which was directed toward the scholarship program. two joining to attend the meeting. At this same time last year, we had 290 active members. On social media, we have 1,720 Face- Scholarships & Assistantships book followers, up 7.5% from last year. On Instagram, we have Kelsey Wiskirchen chaired the Alice Brown Memorial Schol- 140 followers, a number we hope to grow in the coming year. arship committee again this year, which included two members at large, and selected this year’s scholarship winners. They were: Annual Meeting • Hellen Maria Ascoli, a Guatemalan artist and weaver cur- Karen Searle and Sara Lamb co-chaired this year’s Annual rently living in Madison, WI. From 2014-2017, Hellen was the Meeting in Decorah, IA. Sixty-nine people attended and heard Director of Education at the Ixchel Museum of Indigenous from four speakers working with international textile proj- Dress, where she developed an educational outreach program ects: Dianne Nesselhuf of Sharing the Dream Guatemala, Elisa called “The Story of a Thread.” Renne of Queen Amina Embroidery, Mary Hark’s Ghana Paper • Md Rashaduzzaman, currently a PhD student in the De- Project and Mary Ann Wise of Cultural Cloth. Talks and tours partment of Textiles, Merchandising & Fashion Design at the were given of the Vesterheim Museum and Seed Savers Inter- University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Md received his Bachelors and national. Scholarship recipients discussed their research and Masters degrees in Textile Engineering from Bangladesh Uni- goals, a report was given about the recent Tinkuy, and Thrums versity. His research addresses the best eco-friendly and cost- Books hosted a reception and presentation by Susan Davis on effective methods for treating waste from textile factories. her new book about Moroccan weavers. Three Assistantships, funded by the Gloria Davis Textile The live auction raised $2,120, and the silent auction raised Fund, were awarded to: $2,897. WARP’s International Marketplace returned this year • Nicole Giacomantonio, a textile artist and former Alice with thirteen vendors: Cultural Cloth, Sharing the Dream, Brown Scholarship recipient from Halifax, NS, Canada. She Queen Amina Embroidery, Kumasi Paper, PAZA, Azure Blue holds an interdisciplinary degree in textiles and art history Textiles, Mujeres Aliadas, Cloth Roads, Thrums Books, Hillcreek from Nova Scotia College of Art and Design and is planning to Fiber Studio, Hedy Hollyfield and Marilyn Anderson. Vendors begin graduate school in the fall. Her assistantship is to help contributed $720, making total funds raised at the annual build WARP’s presence on Instagram. meeting $5,738. • Karin Knudsen, a textile artist, textile traveler, and Guild Coordinator for the Weavers Guild of Minnesota. She holds WARP’s Strategic Plan a Master’s degree in Anthropology. Karin’s assistantship is to Judi Jetson reported on the Strategic Plan. Three commit- help organize WARP’s photo archives. tees were created in 2017 to Evaluate Structure, Foster Public • Kelsey Wiskirchen, a former WARP Board member, textile Conversation, and Advance Leadership. New board positions artist, and teacher, Kelsey’s assistantship was to help with the have now been created to oversee implementation of these logistics and management of the annual conference. plans and are open to WARP members who would like to join. We also created a Membership Committee to reflect the Newsletter Board’s focus on building membership and membership ben- Linda Temple provided another great year of newsletters. efits - Janice Knausenberger to chair. A Marketing Committee was created, Judi Jetson to chair and Carrie Miller to co-chair, Book to oversee outreach to other organizations and our public Deb Brandon’s book featuring articles from the WARP communication via the website, social media, and printed newsletter - Birth and Rebirth: Textile Techniques from Around materials. Carrie Miller will work on outreach to colleges and the World is being published this fall by Schiffer Press. In return universities with textile programs, with emphasis on scholar- for financial support for this work, WARP will receive copies of ships to attend the annual meeting in Washington, DC. A third the book to be used as gifts and auction items. new position will be Development Chair, which will be shared by Judi and Carrie in the coming year; its focus is to oversee Administration Giving Tuesday, an online donation day directed at non-profits, We appreciate the efforts of Rita Chapman, who managed lo- and to identify other fundraising opportunities. This past year gistical support for our annual meeting, made sure our bills were paid and books were kept, and kept our website up-to-date. continued on page 9 8 WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 Special Section: 2018 Annual Update

Minutes - WARP Annual Business Meeting membership committee. Janice to chair. Marketing: request Decorah IA - June 10, 2018 a chair, oversee outreach to other organizations. Carrie Miller will work on outreach to colleges and Universities with textile Meeting called to order by President Susan Weltman, at programs, to inform them of the scholarship program. Under 9:10 a.m. the Marketing program, Judi reported on Giving Tuesday, held Present included: Philis Alvic, Marilyn Anderson, Sara in November after Black Friday and Online Monday, online Borchert, Krista Botsford, Carol Leigh Brack-Kaiser, Deborah donation day directed at non-profits. This past year WARP re- Chandler, Heidi Clow, Susan Davis, Virginia Davis, Dorinda ceived over $2800 in pledges and donations on Giving Tues- Dutcher, Nicole Giacomantonio, Brad Gilchrist, Mary Glock, day, which was directed toward the scholarship program. Lucy Hansen, Bonna Harwood, Hedy Hollyfield, Catherine • Judy Newland requested volunteer expertise to help with Jacobus, Teena Jennings, Judi Jetson, Janice Knausenberger, online sales. Karin Knudsen, Sara Lamb, Mariana Mace, Kathryn McHenry, • Judi Jetson requested volunteers to help with financial Judy Newland, Athena Pallis, Denise Perry, Lynn Persson, Elisha review of our books, not a formal audit, and to let Philis know Renne, Karen Searle, Kathryn Simmons, Karen Sprenger, Linda if anyone can help. Temple, Hope Thomas, Kelsey Wiskirchen. • Project for the upcoming year is to review the Artisan Re- • Sara requested roll call sheet be passed around, and name source Guide, update entries, and determine effectiveness. checked if present. • 2019 Annual Meeting will be in Washington DC, June 20 • Linda Temple reported on the Silent and Live Auction through the 23rd. totals from the weekend: Silent $2000, Live $3000 (estimates, • Call for proposals for 2020 location and assistance. exact amounts to be determined by Rita once all the account- • Susan introduced the two newest Board members: Janice ing is in). Knausenberger, who stepped into Devik’s vacated seat, and • Philis presented the financial report, explained categories. Carrie Miller, who stepped into the seat vacated by Barbara There were no questions. Sara made a motion to accept, Judi Scott. Dorinda Dutcher and Mariana Mace were presented as Jetson seconded, motion passed. new member candidates to replace outgoing Karen Searle and • Susan presented the minutes from the previous annual Judy Newland. Philis made a motion to accept the slate of can- meeting: Judi made a motion to accept, Sara seconded, didates, Linda Temple seconded, motion carried. motion passed • Susan announced plan for 2019 meeting; to be held at the • Susan presented Karen Searle and Judy Newland, two Georgetown Conference Center. Hedy Hollyfield suggested longtime board members who are leaving, with thanks for we connect with Dumbarton Oaks, a private museum with a their service, and gifts: baskets made by WARP member and collection of Pre-Columbian textiles. Karen Searle agreed to former board member Jackie Abrams contact the curator at the Textile Museum. (note: Hope, Nicole, • Judi Jetson presented a report on the Strategic Plan. New Elisha, and Karen noted as volunteers to help with program). positions are open on committees: the networking committee, • Judy Newland requested help with the blog for the website. working with other organizations making similar efforts with • Meeting adjourned at 10 a.m. regard to fair trade and women’s cooperatives, and creating a

2017-2018 Update continued from page 8 Board Members Retiring Board members Judy Newland and Karen Searle Susan Weltman, Judi Jetson, and Deb Brandon formed the were thanked for their six years on the Board. Nominating Committee for 2017, recruiting three members – Annual Meeting 2019 – Washington, DC Dorinda Dutcher, who stepped into the seat vacated by Bar- Susan Weltman agreed to chair the planning committee bara Scott, Mariana Mace, and Carrie Miller. They were elected for the 2019 annual meeting and will be assisted by Dorinda unanimously. Janice Knausenberger was also introduced; she Dutcher, Janice Knausenberger, and Cathy Stevulak. The meet- has filled the seat vacated by Devik Wyman. ing will be held June 20-23, 2019 at the Georgetown Inn and Conference Center.

WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 9 A Leap of Faith: First Time at WARP’s Annual Meeting Denise Perry My file folder on WARP includes several ar- and vibrant group. Their strong commitment Travel Opportunities ticles from the early 1990’s written by Debo- to the organization’s mission was portrayed Textile Journey: Coast & rah Chandler (Handwoven May/June 1993; through personal stories about their unique Isthmus of Oaxaca, Shuttle, Spindle & Dyepot Winter 1992/93) experiences with global textile communities. November 16-24, 2018 and Linda Temple (Shuttle, Spindle & Dyepot They absolutely love to share their knowl- Summer 1993). In 2009, I presented WARP’s edge and interests, inspiring others to join We’ll meet with the back- slide show to the Duluth Fiber Handcrafters in their work. I learned so much over the strap weaving Amuzgo Guild. Apparently, I wasn’t much of a sales- weekend. The insider’s view of the Vesterhe- women of Xochistlahuaca, person because I believe I’m the only one im Norwegian-American Museum and Seed Guerrero and with weavers from my guild to join WARP. That was in 2014. Savers Exchange were like icing on the cake. in San Juan Colorado who Since then I have paid my annual dues, read I returned home just bursting with tales to spin and weave with native and collected all of the WARP newsletters, and tell my friends and actions to be taken. I plan brown coyuchi cotton. We pondered the mission and values of this or- to reread the newsletters putting together will travel by boat with the ganization. How nice that they fit my values, text and faces with these new-found friends Mixteco dyers to witness interests, and networks. However, a myriad of and, more importantly, to attend next year’s how these dyers continue to activities and excuses prevented me from at- WARP meeting in Washington, D.C. I’ve al- use the sea mollusk, caracol tending the annual meetings. ready convinced a friend to go with me! purpura (common name) Things changed dramatically for me this Attending the next Tinkuy in Cusco, Peru is to dye skeins of cotton year. The meeting was much closer to home. high on my priority list. No dates have been threads purple. Note: This As a first-time attendee I was absolutely set yet but will be available on the website: trip continues to the Chiapas blown away by this four day event. I discov- http://tinkuy2017.textilescusco.org/ Highlands, and can be done ered WARP members are a warm, enthusiastic, Denise can be reached at [email protected] in either segment, or both!

Expoartesanias Colombia! How Businesses Are Fighting Child Labor Bogota and Cartagena, December 4-11, 2018 and Climate Change Through Fair Trade Rachel Spence This travel program is partnerships with “like-hearted” businesses designed around the “We live in a globally connected world where to address safe working conditions and cli- singular Expoartesanias every action affects others.” - Nasreen Sheikh mate change. Bená and Nasreen’s addresses Colombia, the largest and touched on a number of the key principles of most important gathering Nasreen Sheikh is the founder of the fair fair trade, including cultivating environmen- and showcase of Colombia’s trade business, Local Women’s Handicrafts, tal stewardship and supporting safe and em- artisans and their art. The Ex- that works to empower and educate margin- powering working conditions. poartesanias handcraft fair, alized women in Kathmandu, Fair trade creates social and economic held in Bogota is entering its Nepal - the same city in which opportunities through trading partnerships, 28th year and features the she was a child laborer. Nas- placing the interests of producers and their finest in Colombia’s diverse reen was a keynote speaker at communities as the primary concern of their traditional and contempo- this year’s Fair Trade Federa- enterprise. Fair trade businesses also encour- rary craft from the entire tion (FTF) Conference & Expo age environmentally sustainable practices country. From Bogota, the along with Bená Burda of Maggie’s Organics throughout the entire trading chain, seek- tour moves to Cartagena on and Maureen Dunn Fetscher of Mata Traders. ing to offer current generations the ability the Caribbean coast. The 2018 FTF Conference and Expo took place to meet their needs without compromising March 27-29 In Westminster, CO with approxi- For more information about the ability of future generations to meet their mately 250 attendees and speakers from 160+ own needs. these tours, contact Stepha- fair trade wholesalers, retailers, and organiza- nie Schneiderman at info@ FTF businesses fully commit to follow- tions from across the U.S. and Canada. ing all of the Fair Trade Federation principles tiastephanietours.com On the second day of the conference, 734/730-3729 throughout their work. We encourage you to Bená Burda inspired attendees with her reflec- learn more by joining us at the next confer- tions on the shared values of fair trade and ence and expo in Austin, TX from March 26-28. the organic industry. She reminded us of the Rachel can be reached at [email protected] impact of combining forces with other move- Visit the FTF website at http://www.fairtradefed- ments to achieve our goals and the power of eration.org/ 10 WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 Indigo-Adire Skills and Traditions Continued from page 1 Steeped in Nigerian Culture these tools a bit challenging, but often the Indigo grows everywhere in Nigeria. It room filled with silence as we worked. The Travel Opportunities is called elu in Yoruba culture and the sci- fabric creations dried overnight, then were Especially for WARP entific name is Lonchocarpus cyanescens. immersed for a short time in the indigo members: A Study Tour on Nigerian indigo fabric is very dark because bath and laid out to dry. The pieces were the Oaxaca Coast of the plant. It is used fresh when in season, soaked again so that the cassava paste January 11-21, 2019 but also made into indigo balls, which are could be removed by scraping, which can rolled in wood ash and dried. Indigo is con- happen even in rain and snowy weather! sidered both powerful and spiritual and is Tie-dye techniques are called adire just as important as a medicine as it is a dye. oniko and this work is considered a heal- It is added to red beans, rubbed into the ing technique. We wrapped up our last day floor, and used to cure much sickness. The by creating folded and wrapped tie-dye medicine man pieces and once more dipped them into uses the indigo indigo. All pieces were dried and packed after it is used up to travel home. for dyeing. It is sometimes Sharing our stories burned in a house Sharing the textile stories of our lives to clean the air is why most of us do what we do. Gasali’s and remove bad story stretches across continents and cul- Norma Schafer writes: “I spirits. For 2000 tures and had the pleasure of meet- years indigo has now sur- ing many of you at the 2017 been a part of rounds us WARP Annual Meeting in Oaxaca, Mexico, which I Nigerian culture. in CO – we helped coordinate. Through are now The Nigerian my organization, Oaxaca Detail of cassava paste indigo goddess part of Cultural Navigator, I orga- application iYamopo atiba is the story. nize immersion textile study described as “undescribable” and was the So where tours here during the winter first woman to identify indigo. She is cel- do we months. I am offering a spe- ebrated during the Osun festival the last go from cial 10% discount to WARP weekend of August. Working with indigo here? We members with an added brings out songs and stories surrounding can heed 5% donation to WARP for iYamopo atiba. Gasali’s each person who registers motto and for our Oaxaca Coast Textile Technique: the straw, the knife, and the feather “share the Study Tour using the Code Patterns identify the group you belong knowl- WARP15.” More information at to in Nigeria and there are multiple ways edge”. Gasali gestures while telling a story, http://oaxacaculture. And what to achieve these patterns. Most designs are perhaps about being a king! com/2018/02/2019-oaxaca- 5-7 generations old. about costa-chica-study-tour-tex- We made cassava paste to use for two the man who could be king? In Gasali’s vil- tile-explorers/ adire techniques. Ground cassava powder lage, Ofaiedo (meaning little village), three is mixed with alum, copper, water and lime families rotate the responsibility of caring Questions and to register: and cooked for 45 minutes. This paste is for the community through kingship. If [email protected] then applied to fabric using stencils, which Gasali returned to Nigeria he could some- Oaxaca Cultural Navigator is called adire ompantani. day serve in this role. And so our friend LLC, Our next technique required paint- may one day lead his village into a brave http://oaxacaculture.com ing the paste with a broom straw, knife, or new future, sharing his message of love chicken feather to create hand painted de- and the spirit of indigo with the world. signs called adire eleko. Most of us found

WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018 11 Weave a Real Peace 5753 Hwy 85 North #3044 Crestview, FL 32536

Meet WARP’s New Administrative Coordinator (p. 5)

Happy Birthday to WARP - The 2018 Annual Meeting

Clockwise, from top left: Marilyn Anderson, giving an update on the Pro Arte Maya Project; Diane Nesselhuf, speaking about Sharing the Dream Guatemala; Krista Botsford, representing Mujeres Aliadas in the Marketplace; Judy Newland and Mary Ann Wise at the Cultural Cloth booth in the Marketplace; Luna Borchert-Oakley and Zargan Zaman, the youngest participants; Hope Thomas recalling WARP’s early years; WARP’s 25th Birthday cake; Katie Simmons, enjoying the Live Auction. Photos by Janice Knausenberger.

12 WARP Newsletter - Fall 2018