thing else. Cave graves, volcanoes andricefieldsisstunning. However, theToraja’selaborate deathritualsare some- home toaproudpeoplehemmedinbymagnificentmountainsonall sides. The sceneryof culturesis theland-locked ofthe islandthatare mostmysterious. Tana Torajaisspellbinding, Bugis butit helpedtoshapemodernIndonesia astheytooktotheseasintradeandconflict, landscapes spread acrossitslength andbreadth. and the Great seafarers theMinahasans like are itscharacter,ful andinitscontortions withanincredible diversity ofpeople,cultures and inthisregionsome serioustectonic action to produceanislandsobizarre. Butbizarre isbeauti- The firstthingeveryone noticesaboutSulawesiisitsstrangeshape. There musthave been i s e w a l u S 666 Central MarineNationalPark Sulawesiand theincredible Wakatobi inthefarsoutheast. to venture offthetrail,there are thebeautifulbeachesoflaid-backTogean Islandsin if nottheworld.Pulau andtheLembeh Bunaken topbilling,butforthoseprepared Straittake harbour itsreal treasures. Justoffshore inIndonesia, issomeofthebestdivingandsnorkelling in Lore tarsiersinTangkoko. Linduandbug-eyed However, itisthewaters ofSulawesithat The leadingnationalparksseefew visitorsandincludesuchdiverse drawsasancientmegaliths rewarding sidetripstobemadethroughout theregion. Sulawesiisfullofnaturalattractions. sar–Tana andthere Toraja–DanauPoso–TogeanIslands––Bunaken, are alsoplentyof boatsandthedeadtreatedshaped like theliving–avisithere like isoutofthisworld. © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Known to the Portuguese astheCelebes, theisland’smostpopularoverlandKnown tothePortuguese route isMa kas-

„ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS „ „

POPULATION: 15.5 MILLION Enjoyinglife intheslowlane aboardaPelni Samplingthefinestseafood inthemighty Experiencing life after deathin ordivingintosomeofAsia’s Snorkelling most Letting timepassyoubyonthepristine paradise toManado Makassar from (p679 ) liner onan east-coast cruise town forthebiggest nightthissideofJava metropolis of of dramatic drop-offs around theislandhideaway beaches ofthe ceremonies ( p687 ) byjoining oneoftheelaborate funeral Pulau Bunaken(p739) Makassar Makassar Togean Islands (carved woodeneffigiestau (carved ofthedead) ( p671 ), thenhittingthe „ Tana Toraja LANDAREA: 202,000 SQKM 75) a island an ( p725),

Tana Toraja Makassar „ HIGHEST PEAK: HIGHESTPEAK: RANTEMARIO (3440M) , abuffalocult,houses Togean Islands Pulau Bunaken GUNUNG www.lonelyplanet.com Equator Pasangkayu SULAWESI Mamuju Mamasa Majene Makassar Pare Donggala Pantoloan Makassar Maros Selat SULAWESI Tana Toraja Karosa SOUTH Polewali Rantepao Tempe Danau Malino Danau Enrekang Makale Islands Bone Rate Gimpu Benteng Siwa Sengkang Tentena Palopo Watampone Wotu Tomini Pantai Bira Teluk Bone SULAWESI Selayar Tomini Teluk Pulau Poso Toli-Toli Buapinang Baturube Latowu Bone Rate SOUTHEAST SULAWESI Matano Danau Saroako Islands Taka BoneRate SULAWESI Kolonedale CENTRAL National Park Pandauke Kabaena Rate Marine Taka Bone Pulau Kolaka Towuti Danau Pulau Muna S ULAWEI Kembara Tilamuta Pagimana Bau Batui Kwandang Luwuk Teluk Tolo Togean Islands Peleng Limboto Kendari Pulau F LORES SEA Raha Banggai Tataba Islands Buton Pulau Limboto Danau Manui SULAWESI Pulau Wowoni Pulau NORTH Salakan Banggai Pulau Islands Tukangbesi Doloduo Manado Kotamobagu Bunaken 0 0 Pulau Tomohon Taliabu Pulau Kawio Islands Tahuna Tondano Sangir B ANDSE Pulau Bitung Pulau Bangka Pulau Biaro Pulau Siau Tahulandang M ALUK Mangole Pulau Pulau S EA Sangir-Talaud Melanguane Sanana Islands Pulau MALUKU Pulau Tifore Lirung Talaud Pulau Pulau Mayu Pulau 120 miles 200 km Equator

667 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI ever-growing Makassar metropolis. inthe particularlyevident ing development, peace delivered unprecedented andaccelerat- into the1960s.Aperiodof uninterrupted attempts atpost-warreconstruction untilwell ence, ongoingcivilstrife hampered Sula wesi’s down theport. traders fromMakassar, effectively shutting Dutch managed toexcludeallotherforeign into analliancein1667.Eventually, the Hasanuddin,forced Gowa’sruler,Sultan in Makassar harbour,captured thefortand ships 1660 theDutch sunksixPortuguese a considerable concerntotheDutch. In monopoly over thespice tradeintheeast– that allowedtraders tobypasstheDutch tolerantandsecurecosmopolitan, entrepôt Makassar.capital, attracting international traders toGowa’s birds’nestsand pearls, ber), tortoiseshell, delicacytrepang cucum- the Chinese (sea produce,especially supplied valuablesea trading alliancewiththeBajo. TheBajo the mid-16thcenturywaspartlyduetoits Gowa –Sulawesi’sfirst major power–from ofisland’s history.Therise thekingdomof nomads, have playedanintegral role inthe populardestination. a deservedly people make theinterior of SouthSulawesi architecture and ceremonies of the Toraja groups of Sula wesi. The uniquetraditions, ofhasans thefarnorth,are thedominant west pen insula, andtheChristianMina- The Makassarese andBugisof thesouth- rich cultures wellintothe20thcentury. elementsofsome of their whompreserved for someof ’searliestinhabitants, The interior of theislandprovided arefuge 668 HISTORY HISTORY Even after Indonesiawonitsindepend- Makassar quickly became knownasa Other minorities,particularlyBajo Sea Central on Sulawesi section p715 . fore travelling through the region. Seethe area. Doublecheck the latest situation be- 2005 and continuedtroubles inthePoso were bomb attacksinPalu andTentena in to continuedunrest andviolence. There potentially risky atthetimeofwriting,due ofCentralTravel Sulawesiremains toparts WARNING TRAVEL SULAWESI •• History SULAWESI ••History before you canenter the Philippines. ant to note anonward ticket thatyou need run,butitisimport- foravisa This isuseful Philippines forUS$110/200. once aweek Manadobetween andDavao inthesouthern (one way/return). Bouraq andMerpati fly day, FridayandSaturday) forUS$250/375 pore (Monday,Wednes- fourtimesaweek ManadoSilk Airfliesbetween and Singa- INTERNATIONAL domestic flights. Airfares map( p669 aboutall) for details andtheSulawesithe individualsections Sulawesi.See and WingsAiralsoservice Indonesia,Mandala, SriwijayaAir carriers, Air,Bouraq, butAdamAir,Batavia AirlinesandLion Airaresantara themain Tenggara. orNusa Merpati Nu- totransitforconnections you’ll need Kalimantan, MalukuBali, and , but It ispossibletoarrange direct toJava, flights inKalimantan. connections toBalikpapan rest of Indonesia,andPalu, which offers Manado, which are wellconnected with the The three transporthubsare Makassar and DOMESTIC Air THERE&AWAY GETTING p848. nado, alsotheclimate chart forMa-by 5ºC.See theaveragemountains temperature drops from around26ºCto30ºC,butinthe Average temperatures alongthecoastrange going fromthelowlandstomountains. est areas inIndonesia. Valley Sulawesiisoneof thedri- inCentral in late April,May andearlyJune. ThePalu dump heavy rainsalongtheeastern regions westerly windsprevail. Southeasterly winds early January, whennorthwesterly and tend tobelate November, Decemberand The wettest months alongthewestcoast rain playshavoc withlocalrainfallpatterns. allyear, stant ter-Sulawesi’s mountainous temperaturesAlthough are relatively con- CLIMATE tense atthetimeoftense writing. today. Thesituationintheregion remains violence in1998andtroubleslinger on Sula wesi fell intoacycleof inter-communal Temperatures dropquite considerably Tragically, thePosoregion inCentral www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com (MD) (MP)(SA) 534 (AA)(BA) (MP) (SA) To 262 (BA) To Surabaya SULAWESI AIRFARES To 720 (MP) (GA) (LA) 590 (AA) To Balikpapan 351 (AA)(LA) To Surabaya To To 450 (BA) in '000Rp,unlessotherwiseindicated. Lowest availableone-wayairfares of writing. Quoted fareswerecorrectatthetime Silk Air Merpati Mandala Garuda DAS Adam Air 416 (MP) 525 (GA)(LA)(MP) (MP) To Balikpapan 565 (BA)(LA) (BA) (LA)(MP) To Jakarta 450 Makassar (DAS) 250 336 (GA)(LA) To (DAS) 188 Palu (Tana Toraja) Rantepao Selayar

Selayar Pulau (WA) (SA) (SK) (MP) (MD) (LA) (GA) (DAS) (BA) (AA) 250 (LA) (MP) (MP) 420 To US$250 (SK) (LA) (SA) 524 669 (GA) (LA) To Denpasar (MP) 776 Luwuk Gorontalo Kendari (MP) 583 (GA) (LA)(MP) 336 (LA) SULAWESI ••SulawesiAirfares (MP) 269 US$110 (MP) To Davao (MP) 224 1271 (BA)(GA) (MP) Manado Sangir Pulau To Jayapura To Sorong 903 (MP) 1656 (MP) To Timika Equator 1167 (BA)(GA)(MP) Naha 1876 (BA)(GA)(MP) 320 (LA)(MD) To Ambon 391 (LA)(MP) 886 (LA)(MP) To Ternate 507 (MP) To Ternate To Jayapura (MP) To Sorong To Biak 338 Melanguane Talaud Pulau

669 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI Bouraq andDASalsooperate routes. selected carriers Air, withinSulawesi,butBatavia frequent. Merpati andLionAirare themain has madeinternalcheaper flights andmore The recent growthof domesticaircarriers Air AROUND GETTING Umsini Tilongkabila Sirimau Rinjani Lambelu Kelimutu Kambuna Ciremai Siguntang Bukit Awu Mas Agoa include: stop atMakassar and/or Bitung(Manado) towns. or Toli-Toli,aswellafew otherminor forManado),(the seaport Pare Pare and/ half Pelni’s callingatMakassar, fleet Bitung Sulawesi iswellconnected, withmore than Sea 670 and . Papua, andJava. through travelthrough agencies. Makassar andManado are often cheaper Some of themore boatsthat important Tickets forall internationalfrom flights boundary ofAsian fauna. as thewestern Australian boundary ofstrictly fauna, whileWallace’s Linemarksthe eastern Line,whichlieseast ofMalukuand Timor, east.Lydekker’s the linefurther isgenerally accepted proven to betrue. thatgeologists ofboth,afact haveso unusualthatWallace suspected since itwasonce part toaPacific-Australianand thosetotheeast hadbeenlinked continent.Sulawesi’s wildlife was of Asia,and Balitothewest. Hebelieved thatislandstothewestofline hadoncebeenpart The WallaceLine,asitbecame known,dividedSulawesiandLombok totheeast,andBorneo evolution transformed modernthought. fromhis owntravels.similar observations The subsequentdebate onspeciesdistributionand was inhabited faunaintheeastandonewest,prompted byonedistinct Darwintopublish lettersgeography. His toDarwin,detailingevidence of histheorythattheIndonesianarchipelago differencesmarked inwildlife, despite thetwoislands’proximity andsimilaritiesinclimate and lace resulted insome inspired correspondence withCharlesDarwin. Wallacewasstruckbythe ofBorneoandSulawesiinthe1850sbyEnglishnaturalistAlfredDetailed surveys RusselWal- THE WALLACE LINE ToNusaTenggara, BaliandEastKalimantan. SULAWESI •• Getting Around SULAWESI ••Getting Other analysesof whereOther Australian-type faunabegin to outnumberAsian fauna have placed Wallace refined histheoryin1859,drawing aboundarybetweenthetworegions offauna. To Java, East Kalimantan and Northern Maluku. andNorthern ToJava,EastKalimantan To southern Maluku, southern and northern southernandnorthern TosouthernMaluku, To Northern Maluku, northern Papua andJakarta northern Maluku, ToNorthern ToNusaTenggara, JavaandEastKalimantan. To Java and southern and Northern Maluku. ToJavaandsouthernNorthern To northern Papua andEastKalimantan. Tonorthern ToEastKalimantan. ToJavaandEastKalimantan. ToNusaTenggara andBali. To southern Maluku, Banda,Papua TosouthernMaluku, (fast boat)or‘super-jet’ isthewaytogo. the southeastern peninsula,thekapal cepat occasionally available forcharter. Around are speedboats transport, although also (wooden boats),are thenormalmodeof creaky oldpassengerships,or islands such astheTogean andBanggai, way toMakassar. Sangir-Talaud Islands;andreturns thesame Bitung; acrosstoTahuna andLirunginthe and up toKolonedale,Luwuk,Gorontalo andKendari; Raha Bau, Makassar toBau kabila, from twoweeks whichevery sails totheremotegoes islands of Bone Rate. the IslandsandBitung(forManado); Banggai theCiremai the Bau; Bau, to Bau toBau goes for details of aroundSulawesi. for details flights tries andtheSulawesiAirfares map( p669 ) There theindividualGetting &Awayen- See west peninsula,andaroundManado and Regions aroundMakassar andthesouth- Bus, Bemo&Kijang the gotoPantoloanbuna andKerinci (forPalu); the fromMakassar: following boatssail bustrips.Everyand rough the two weeks Sulawesi are alternative acomfortable tolong The few Pelni shipsthatlinktownswithin Boat Elsewhere alongthecoast,andtoremote isthe service The mostuseful Bukit Siguntang, goes toBitung;andthe Lambelu goes Lambelu andRinjani go www.lonelyplanet.com kapal kayu Sirimau Tilong- Kam-

both retain vestiges of traditional beliefs. tralia. Islam isthe dominant religion, but as farafield asthenorthern coastof Aus- ing toFlores, Timor and ,andeven who for centuries were active intrade,sail- similar cultures; both are people seafaring and around Watampone) Makassarese have around Makassar. The Bugis (centred are concentrated inthesouthern tip,mainly quarter) andthe Toraja. TheMakassarese of thepopulation), Makassarese (a include the Bugis (whomake uptwo-thirds sugar caneare crops. alsoimportant andcoffee, cottonand is widelypractised, and large lakes. Irrigated-rice agriculture regionmountainous of caves, waterfalls often isalush, shortenedSelatan; to Sul-sel) people warmandfriendly. backwaters where thelandislush andthe on thesoutherntipandsomequiet country two great destinationsliesomefinebeaches welcoming peopleof these Toraja. Beyond isn’t amovie, butreal life forthewarmand this sacrifice; the livingandmassbuffalo dead peoplethataredeceased, treated like ofwith skullsandbones,puppeteffigies the gravesemonies inIndonesia. Cliff littered home tosomeof themostelaborate cer- Tana Toraja isbeautifulandbeguiling, the townbefore headingintotheinterior. andagoodplacetohit and self-confident city inthecountry,butitissophisticated Makassar maynot bethemostcharming orable destinations,timelessTana Toraja. aswelloneofsar, Indonesia’smostmem- home totheisland’sonlymetropolis,Makas- Long thegateway to Sulawesi, thesouthis wayofcomfortable, getting around. more isaquick,butnotnecessarily taxi) pen insulas, sharingaKijang(atypeof 4WD Onthesoutheastandsouthwestseason. Sulawesi,especiallyinthewet in Central able. Allowplentyof timetotravel overland transport canbecrowdedanduncomfort- often are distances rough, long,andpublic mikrolet orpete-pete). Elsewhere, roadsare bemo,knowninSulawesias comfortable (andless and frequent, buses comfortable the northeastpeninsula,have goodroads www.lonelyplanet.com The estimated nine million inhabitants The estimated ninemillioninhabitants The province of SouthSulawesi(Sulawesi much of the shipping that passed between much of between the shipping thatpassed fromthe seafront. striking sunsets scenethisside ofnight Surabayaand some anywhere in thearchipelago, the liveliest be rewarded withsome of thebest seafood glance. linger However, alittle andyouwill pear oversized andoutof controlatfirst Makassar ap- namic metropolises, might in Sulawesi.Like manyof thenation’sdy- ries, Makassar city isthemostimportant Gateway toeastern Indonesia forcentu- % MAKASSAR political oreconomicsituationisuncertain. Pare Pare are stillthefirst toprotest when the again occurred inthe1950s.Makassar and against thecentralIndonesiangovernment Islamic andindependentminded – revolts on untiltheearly1930s. years of the20th century.Unrest lingered resistance wasfinallybroken intheearly continued untilMakassarese andBugis Bone. Thiswassuppressed, butrebellions ofturned toaBugisrevolt ledbythequeen during theNapoleonicWars, theDutch re- litical landscape. After theirbriefabsence Bugis statescontinuallyreshaped thepo- South Sulawesi. Palakka, thenbecamethesupreme stateof severely reduced Gowa’spower. Bone,under sign theTreaty of Bungayain1667,which HasanuddinSultan of Gowawasforcedto Makassarese. Ayearof ensued,and fighting against the in 1666,promptingBonetorise Dutch sponsored Palakka’s return toBone exiled BugisprinceArungPalakka. The trade. Theyfoundananti-Gowaallyin the the spice drance toitsplansmonopolise foundGowaaconsiderable hin- VOC) (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie; the wholeBugis-Makassarese area. Bone wassoonsubdued,spreading Islamto king of Gowaadopted Islamin1605and major trading blocineastern Indonesia. The attheheadof itself a Gowa hadestablished dom of Bone. Bythemid-16thcentury, the portof Makassar) andtheBugis king- the Makassarese kingdomof Gowa(around The leadingpowers of thesouthwere long History From Makassar, theDutch controlled The Makassarese andBugisare staunchly BoneandtheotherRivalry between The Dutch IndiaCompany United East 0411 /pop1.6million SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar

671 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 672 SOUTH SULAWESI Majene SOUTH SULAWESI Makassar Makassar Sabalana Sumba Selat Malunda Pulau Selat Mamuju Sungguminasa Makassar Pasangkayu Sampaga

Salarindu Babana Mamasa Valley Pare Polewali Maros Mamasa Karosa Sidereng Bilibili Pangkajene Galumpang SULAWESI Pinrang Rantepao Malino Lompobatang SOUTH Limbung Soppeng Seko Danau Bantimurung Tempe Gua Leang Bantaeng Sa'dan (2870m) Gunung Tana Toraja Enrekang F LORES SEA Rapang Rantemario Makale Sidenreng (3440m) Danau Gunung Sengkang Watampone Masamba Rampi Bulukumba Palopo Pulau Uloe Pasi Siwa Sinjai Tanah Beru Danau Poso Kajang Bajoe Mangkutana Pantai Bira Benteng Pamatata Barangbarang Teluk Bone Poso Selayar Pulau Tentena Pendolo Tomini Teluk Wotu Taka Bone RateMarine National Park(20km) To PulauBonerate & Susua

Beteleme Malamala Matano Danau Soroako Malili SULAWESI Latowu CENTRAL Towuti Danau Kolonedale Nuha 0 0 SOUTHEAST Mahalona SULAWESI Kabaena Pulau Danau Salonsa Kolaka www.lonelyplanet.com Teluk Asolu Tolo 80 km 50 miles Muna Pulau by thefirst of inhabitants Sulawesi. collected butterflies, andcave-paintings left falls where thenaturalistAlfred Wallace the palaceof kings,water- theGowanese malls. kukkang anditsmighty new centre oneday.TotheeastisPanna- west of thecityandmaywellbecome looms large onthehorizontosouth- new suburbseverywhere. Tanjung Bunga directioncity isexpandinginevery with Pangeran . Hasanuddintan andof theJavanese prince isalsothelastrestingkassar placeof Sul- have alittlesliceof oldAmsterdam. Ma- occupation. Walkinsideitswallsandyou terdam asareminder stands of theDutch transport hub.Theimpressive Fort Rot- the cityisstillathrivingportandimportant western andeastern Indonesia,andtoday www.lonelyplanet.com Plc station Police EMERGENCY Gramedia BOOKSHOPS Information dala monument)andtheMarannu Hotel. landmarks: theMonumenMandala (Man- oversets theocean,or look fortwomajor you get disoriented, remember thatthesun Goldendominateskassar thebeachfront. If older commercialhub;andtheHotel Ma- city; FortRotterdam isinthecentre of the iently located inthenorthwestpartof the bus orgototheairport.Theportisconven- venture intotheeastern suburbstocatch a is Makassar Orientation English-language books,newspapersandmagazines. In thearea surroundingMakassar are But thatisoldMakassar andtodaythe name Makassar for itshistorical resonance.name Makassar charged. Itseemspeople preferred the for centuries, andneithertitle ispolitically names are still used,astheyhave been name backtoMakassar. In reality both made thepopular decision tochangethe during hisfinaldays aspresident, Habibie wasUjungPandang,name ofMakassar then From theearly1970s until1999theofficial WHAT’S INANAME? (Ratu Indah Mall) Thebestplacetopickup Mall) Indah (Ratu ( but you’ll only need to huge, butyou’llonlyneed % 110; JlAhmadYani)

centre. aTelkoma posterestante service, officeandaninternet Ria, boastsalmost50terminals. Ria, get here. Sudirmanto or bemo)travellingsouthalongJlJendral Takeand friendly. anyred There isnotmuchonoffer here, butthestaffare helpful &JlSungaiSaddang; cnr JlSamRatulangi Marine NationalPark. Marine upWakatobi the remote Tukangbesi Islandswhichmake car hire andagoodsourceof information ontravellingto in Sulawesi(see tion Wallaceaprojects p714 ). Ticketing, 1)The agentforOpera- JlMappanyukki .losari-tours.com; Losari Holidays Tours &Travel Losari TRAVEL AGENCIES InformationCentre Sulawesi Tourism TOURIST INFORMATION at theairport. town. There are international telephones to make callsfromalmostanywhere in Wartel are everywhere, soitiseasyenough TELEPHONE there acceptcredit cards. rates thaninthecityandsomeof theATMs moneychangersseveral offer lower slightly cash andtravellers cheques. Attheairport, . placescanalsochange These Mandiri. andBank Bank Mostare onJl Internasional Indonesia(BII),Lippo Bank Asia Central (BCA), donesia (BNI),Bank credit Negara In- cards,includingBank by bankswithATMs thatacceptallmajor KarebosiLapangan isliterally surrounded MONEY Pelamonia Sakit Rumah MEDICAL SERVICES postoffice Main Cybernet city, mostcharging 7000Rpperhour. Internet centres are springingupacrossthe ACCESSINTERNET &POST Immigration office IMMIGRATION Nell Tours hospital. ) Themostconvenientandwell-equipped, from Makassar to Manado and all pointsin-between. to Manado from Makassar Car hire,in trans-Sulawesi trips. guidesand fullitineraries drawasih 103) Along-runningtravel agencyspecialising (cnr Jl Kajaolalido &JlAhmadYani) (cnrJlKajaolalido AbovePizza ( % SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar 852445; www.nelltours.com; JlCen- (Jl Slamet Riyadi; Slamet Riyadi; (Jl (Jl Tentara (Jl Pelajar) Near the port. (atypeofmikrolet pete-pete ( % 324710; Jl Jendral 324710; JlJendral ( % h 5063884; www 8am-9pm) Has h ( % 8am-4pm) 872336;

673 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 674 4 6 1 3 2 5 MAKASSAR (UJUNGPANDANG) To GMall Makassar 26 50 SOUTH SULAWESI •• Makassar (UjungPandang) SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar 11 (4km) 37 46 Selat 27 Wartel...... Wartel...... Telkom...... (see 7) Sulawesi TourismInformationCentre... Rumah SakitPelamonia...... PT HajiMoneychanger...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Main PostOffice...... Lippo Bank...... (see1) Internet Centre...... (see7) Immigration Office...... Cybernet...... (see 41) BNI Bank...... BNI Bank...... BII Bank...... Bank Mandiri...... Bank Bali...... otEtac...... A2 Port Entrance...... INFORMATION

25 Jl Supratman Jl Pasar Ikan Ὀ

45 44 16

Jl

Jl Somba Opu Somba Jl AC Jl Metro Penghibur Jl Jl Ranggong 52 30 7 Jl Martadinata

Tanjung Jl Jl Alimalaka Jl Baumassepe 14 Slamet Jl

Jl JampeaJl Sulawesi 57 5 Riyadi Bunga 20 33

Jl Mochtar Lufti 34 Jl Daeng Tompo Daeng Jl

Jl Datu Musseng 8 Jl 32 9 40 Jl Hatta 38

31 Jl Thamrin Jl 54

42 Jl Balaikota

Serui Sama Serui

Jl Sumba Jl

48 21

36 Jl Lombok 35 Hasanuddin Jl 22 15 6 Jl Hatta

41 23

3

53 Jl Bali Jl

Jl Kenari Pelajar Jl Lembeh Jl ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Tentara Jl 24

39

Jl Ahmad Yani Ahmad Jl Jl Nusantara Hotel Marannu Jl Botolempangan Jl

To Nell Tours Timor Jl Jl Butung Jl

Jl Kajaolalido 47 43

Jl R A (2km) 1 Lapangan

Karebosi Jl Ince Nurdin Sangir Jl 15 14 13 12 11 10 Jl Khairilan War 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Jl Sawerigading Jl Kalimantan

29

A5 B4 B4 B4 B4 Jl Irian B4 A5 B6 B5 A4 C4 A4 A4 B2

Jl Arifrate Jl 55 B Jl Amannagappa

Jl Jl 19

2 Jl Cokroaminoto Jl Imperial AryadutaHotel:Club A5 Hotel MakassarGolden...... Wisata Inn...... Quality Hotel...... Pondok SuadaIndah...... Losmen Semeru...... Velvet...... Hotel Yasmin...... Hotel SuryaBerlian...... Hotel RamayanaSatrya...... Hotel PantaiGapura...... Hotel LosariBeach...... Hotel Lestari...... Hotel Dinasti...... Hotel CitraWisata...... Taman AnggrekClaraBundt...... Paddle Boats...... Museum NegeriLaGaligo...... (see16) Monumen Mandala...... Masjid AlMarkasalIslami...... Makam PangeranDiponegoro... ......

Jl Irian SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES

Jl Satando Jl

58

Jl Jendral Sudirman Jendral Jl 49

Jl Tarakan Jl 4 51 Akademis Jl

Jl Gunung Kelabat Jl Hasyim Jl Jl Caddi

12 Gunung Jl

Jl Sam Jl

13 Lompobatang Jl Mohammadiyah Jl Jl Salemo

Jl Seram Ujung Residence Governor's Jl Bulusaraung Sungguminasa (12km); Milano(75km) Ratu IndahMall (200m);LosariTravel

(1km); Terminal Mallengkeri(5km);

Jl Buru

17

Jl Gunung Merapi Gunung Jl To HotelSahid Jaya (200m); Cerekang Sungai Jl Old Gowa (7km);Terminal

Jl Diponegoro

Jl Sungai Paremang Jl Ramli

Jl Sungai Poso

Jl Sarif Alqadri Sarif Jl

Jl Sungai Saddang Sungai Jl

Jl Bawakaraeng

Jl Andalas Jl Jl Monginsidi Jl

Jl

21 20 19 18 17 16 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 Gunung Nona Gunung Jl Bandang Jl

B5 A5 A5 A4 A6 A4 B5 D4 A4 A5 B4 B3 B5 B5 A6 B5 D4 C3 A4 Jl Gunung Latimojong Gunung Jl

10 Jl Sungai Limboto Sungai Jl

Gunung Salahutu Night Warung...... Lae Lae...... Galael Supermarket...... Fish Warung...... Candy Bakery...... Pelni...... Pelabuhan Makassar(PelniPort).... Merpati...... Mandala Airlines...... Lion Air...... Lion Air...... Garuda...... Central Pete-PeteTerminal...... Samalona...... Makassar Mall...... Pharos...... Makassar Theatre...... Colors...... Botol Cafe...... (see34) Kios ...... (see45) Kafe Kareba...... Ballairate SunsetBar...... (see27) Swensen's...... (see 38) Shogun...... Rumah MakanMalabar...... Rumah MakanKayangan...... Pizza Ria...... Phinisi...... (see 27) TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING Kantin BaikdanMurah...... (see38) Boat toPulauKayangan&

Jl Jl Veteran Utara Veteran Jl Panaikang (22km);Pare(160km); To PanukkukangMall(6km);MClub (7km); HasanuddinAirport(22km); www.lonelyplanet.com 0 0 Terminal RegionalDaya(22km); Afiat Hotel(22km);Terminal

Ὀ Ὀ

Jl Mesjid Raya Mesjid Jl

Jl Kerung Kerung Kerung Jl

Canal Jl Abubakar L Abubakar Jl Panampu D Rantepao (328km) 56 18 Makasar Hiburan 0.5 miles Taman 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 28 a mb 1 km B3 B4 B4 A4 A5 A5 B3 A5 B4 A6 B5 A5 A4 B5 B5 A3 D4 B4 A4 B4 A4 B4 A4

ogo Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com entry bydonation) (admission 1700Rp; dam Dutch architecture inIndonesia, examplesofOne of thebest-preserved FORT ROTTERDAM Sights www.lonelyplanet.com Hasanuddin skirts of Makassar, include 7km fromtownonthesoutheastern out- Remnants of theformerkingdomof Gowa, OLD GOWA inasmall can beseen Fort Rotterdam. Histombandmonument the last26years of hislife imprisonedin oner andthenexiledtoSulawesi. He spent quarters tonegotiate peace,wastaken pris- was tricked intogoing totheDutch head- rebel leadercametoasuddenhaltwhenhe Java War(1825–30),buthiscareer asa Prince Diponegoro of ledthe Yogyakarta MAKAM PANGERAN DIPONEGORO the kingsof Gowawere crowned. Stone compound isthePelantikan the mid-17thcentury.Outside tomb therulerofwhich memorialises Gowain h to keep the same hoursto keep thesame asthefort. seems complain? Inpractice,themuseum hardly riveting, butatthisprice whocan instruments andvariouscostumes.It’s from Tana Toraja, kitchen tools,musical assortment of exhibits,includingricebowls sion free; buildings. an interesting comparisontotherestored wall have leftuntouched, been andprovide Bungaya in1667.Parts of thecrumbling rebuilt inDutch styleafter theTreaty of keep outtheDutch. Theoriginalfortwas back to1545oncestoodhere, butfailedto bour of Makassar. fortdating AGowanese ace itself isthe realace itself attraction. only onrequest, the wooden Bugis-style pal- theroyal regaliaBugis. Although canbeseen Island, who have ahistory of trade withthe ing giftsfrom AustralianAborigines of Elcho acollection ofpoa, houses artefacts, includ- residence, now knownas Theformerroyal south atSungguminasa. of of theSultan seat Gowa,is5km further Benteng Sungguminasa Benteng Inside thefort, 7.30am-6pm) (Jl Pasar Ikan; entrybydonation,suggested10,000Rp; Pasar Ikan; (Jl h 8am-4pm) (Jl Pallantiang, offJlSultanHasanuddin) (Jl continuestoguardthehar- . h , a fort that was once the , afortthatwas once the 8am-12.30pm Tue-Sun) Museum Negeri LaGaligo Negeri Museum

(Jl Kh ;admis- Wahid Kh (Jl cemetery Museum BallaLom- Museum Makam Sultan Makam (Jl Diponegoro; (Jl , onwhich Fort Rotter- Fort hasan ,

Irian Jaya (nowknownasPapua). ument), andcelebrates the‘liberation’ of version of Jakarta’s Monas(NationalMon- chid Garden; Jl Mochtar Lufti 15;entrybydonation) JlMochtarLufti chid Garden; ( divers. Formore contact details, and cargo boat,allaccessibletoadvanced coast, includingasubmarine, gunship some of thelargest wrecks offtheSulawesi abundant corals,arange of marinelife and but thesmallislandsoffcoast dooffer parts of Sulawesiwhenitcomestodiving, paddle. forasunset (food stalls) are available tohire warungs the night near shaped they get crowdedonSundays.Comedicfish- for20,000Rp,although pools thepubliccanuse Hoteland ImperialAryaduta have Top-end hotels such asHotel Pantai Gapura Activities Pelabuhan Paotere OTHER SIGHTS recent years, butthere are somecheap hotel A couple of budget favourites have in closed BUDGET gressive discounters. asthesmarterever, hotels intown are ag- spectrum. Life atthetopcanbegood,how- Pickings are slimatthebudget end of the Sleeping orchard andanextensive shellcollection. There’sto 5mhigh). alsoaverdant fruit home. exotichybrids(someup Itcontains hiddenbehind theBundtfamily sanctuary Sudirman; admission5000Rp; the busy is usuallylotsof activityonthedock,andin is where ships berth.There theBugissailing just ashort becakridenorthof thecitycentre, Mallenkeri Terminal, fromwhere 8000Rp. Anotherbecakwilltake youto from there tothefortshouldcostaround walk tothetomb.Abecak(bicycle-rickshaw) Makassar Mall forthe1km totheturn-off take a red pete-pete marked from ‘SMinasa’ return tocentralMakassar; the should costabout 3000Rp. % Makassar maynotbeasfamousother The towering To go to Old Gowa and Sungguminasa, To gotoOldGowaandSungguminasa, Taman ClaraBundt Anggrek 858762; www.marlindive.com) paddle boats afew streets south. fish market SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar (Paotere Harbour;admission500Rp) Monumen Mandala (15,000Rp perhr; h 8am-4pm) . (Clara BundtOr- h isasmaller Marlin Dive Dive Marlin pete-pete swimming swimming pete-pete 11am-9pm) (Jl Jendral Jendral (Jl isa 675

,

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI a a sofa Breakfast set. isextra. and theVIProomsare like littlesuites with withair-conbasic, butthose are agooddeal for itsrange of rooms.Thefanroomsare from theaction,thishotel isquite popular and ‘bathtube’. fridgebut it’sgoodvalue,withair-con, TV, to befamiliarifyouhave here stayed before, are onlylikely andthestaff the finestservice Not andfamiliarstaff. thefinestservice ises 120,000/132,000Rp; 121;economy60,000Rp,VIPs/d Jl Bawakaraeng Amannagappa 7;s/d156,000/168,000Rp; player. from 150,000Rpinclude–get this–aDVD water andair-con, whilethe deluxe rooms minibar,hot town. Allhave satellite TV, conceals someof thebest-value roomsin this unassumingfaçadeinthebackstreets 176,000Rp; Makassar. outof withanearlyflight push forthose doata hardly sparkle. itmight However, the so-calleddiamondandemeraldrooms hotel isalittleontheshabbyside. Even the cornerof this theairportaccessroad, MIDRANGE range hotels alsooffer budget fanrooms. deals ifyoushopabout.Someof themid- stated. stated. andincludebreakfast, unlessotherwise TV is excellent.Allrooms have air-con, satellite The choice of midrange hotels inMakassar include hotwater andbath tubs. decent sizeand themore expensive options outside.metropolis right Allroomsare a it feels a long wayfromthe modern house, inagracious, spaciousold colonial-era Set to justifyaboutique hotel, thiscouldbeit. If Makassar becomes popularenough ever 65,000-120,000Rp; rooms. creative carpentry)isshared the between andair-con that(through but includeTV rooms are onthesomewhatsmallside offers thebest-value cheapies intown.The 676 Sultan Hasanuddin12; s/d from114,000/138,000Rp; Hotel Afiat Hotel SuryaBerlian Hotel Hotel Lestari Lestari Hotel Losmen Semeru Pondok SuadaIndah Hotel Ramayana Satrya Ramayana Hotel ) This long-running budget stalwart still Thislong-runningbudget still stalwart SOUTH SULAWESI •• Makassar SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar a ) Upneartheportendof town, ( % a a ( % ( % 553024; JlBandaraHasanuddin1;r ) ) Strategically located on Despite beingafairwalk 327337; JlSavu16;r110,000- 318113; Jl Jampea 28; r 45,000Rp; 318113; JlJampea28;r45,000Rp;

( ( % %

( % 327208; fax331252;Jl 317179; fax312856;Jl 442478; fax442479; a ) Itprom- a )

indosat.net.id; Jl Pasar Ikan 50;rfrom500,000Rp; indosat.net.id; JlPasar Ikan r from336,000Rp; .com; Jl Sam Ratulangi 33;rfrom 650,000Rp; .com; JlSam Ratulangi years goneby. rates, notquite although thebargains of and discountsare available onpublished There are plentyof top-endhotels intown TOP END hot tubavailable forguests. andfridge. Therelite isalsoawhirlpool TV Rooms are wellequippedandincludesatel- touch’and ‘feel theoriental astheysay. China. Enterthetemple through doorway streets neartheportarea isalittlesliceof All roomsincludehotwater. for notraisingitsrates much over theyears. recognition theCitradeserves boulevard, alongatree-linedother centraloptionset gettable breakfast. discounts are possibleifyouforgo thefor- folk. Roomsfeature a tidy trimand40% ness hotel ispopularwithIndonesiansales Jl AhmadYani strip,thisthree-star busi- water showers. rooms areandhot large andincludeTV rooms fromjust50,000Rp.Theair-con sizes, includingsomebargain fan-cooled Roomscomeinallshapes and friendly staff. to agood-value range of rooms andthe popularthanks central hotel isdeservedly Ratu Indah Mall. With aswimming pool, Ratu of theaction, butconvenient for thenearby this 220-roomplace isalittleway south sar, Another contender forbesthotel in Makas- common. or city views.Discountsof 25%aresea a similarmixof roomsandcottages with Gapura, thishotel isan oldlandmarkwith A shortstrollsouth of theHotel Pantai rapidlyforapremium view. Prices rise sea good-value roomsfeaturing allmod cons. thismodernbusinesshotel hasseafront, Boasting agreat locationoverlooking the r from280,000Rp; .net.id; JlPenghibur 10;s/dfrom309,000/329,000Rp) tolempangan 28;s/dfrom180,000/216,000Rp; anuddin 36;s/dfrom175,000/205,000Rp; Hotel Makassar Golden Makassar Hotel Beach Losari Hotel Hotel Dinasti Hotel Hotel CitraWisata Hotel Hotel Sahid Jaya Sahid Hotel YasminHotel Wisata Inn Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ( a % ( a ( % % ) 324344; fax312783;JlSultanHas- Tucked awayinthe back ) 325657; fax325758;JlLombok30; Located nearthemain 328329; fax328283;JlJampea5; ( ( % % ( % www.lonelyplanet.com 311018; fax325154;JlBo- 875757; www.sahidhotels

326062; los-htl@indosat ( % 333000; mghupg@ a a

as as ) This ) An- ) )

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com 900,000Rp; sar.com; JlSombaOpu235;s/dwithoceanview800,000/ 1,000,000Rp, pura.com; 10;r650,000Rp,cottagesfrom JlPasar Ikan and kitsch boat-shapedrestaurant. bar swimming pool,alush garden,asunset tiate onanyroom.There isalsoapopular views costmore, butmake sure younego- ofseries solidwalkwaysover Sea thesea. and make adate withacottage, builtona pheric propertiesintown.Forget therooms back andthisisoneof themostatmos- from thefront,butventure tothe through is the lack of a sea view. is thelackof asea only drawbackcompared withtheImperial fitness centre, andwi-fi internet access,the www.lonelyplanet.com delicious ter, iswhere you’ll find restaurants serving provide entertainment. tableside per fish baked orfried).Roaming buskers intown(aboutcheapest 15,000Rp seafood some of thetastiest, Rotterdam andserve onthe foreshore night every opposite Fort Makassar’s(just about)see famoussunset. meals foraround 15,000Rp, andyoucanstill up fresh andcheap IndonesianandChinese theless thehundreds of warungsserve night nomore.famously calledit,issadly Never- The ‘world’slongest restaurant’, asweonce shunted southontoJlMetro Tanjung Bunga. diningstripwas famousseafront kassar’s and afew international surprises. kassar dishes, local‘specialities’such ascoto ma- excellentChineseof deliciousseafood, a great destination.There’s anabundance For manyit’sthefoodthatmakes Makassar Eating Discounts available. plush pool,afitnesscentre bars. andseveral box andwi-fi internet access.There isa Allroomsincludeasafety deposit standard. are equippedtoaninternational four-star The leadingaddress intown,the230rooms duta.com; JlSombaOpu297;rfrom1,200,000Rp; and centrallocation. views pulled out.It’sagooddealforitssea have plummeted intheyears sincethechain Imperial Aryaduta Hotel AryadutaHotel Imperial Quality Hotel Jl Timor, intheheart of quar- theChinese A stringof makeshift up fishwarungset owngoal,Ma-Scoring aspectacular Hotel Pantai Gapura Hotel (soup made from buffalo innards), (soupmadefrombuffalo

as mie pangsit (wonton soup). as ) ( Built as a Radisson, the rates BuiltasaRadisson, % ) Itlookspretty forlorn 333111; www.qualityhotelmakas

( % ( 325791; www.pantaiga % 870555; www.arya

as )

anything but. made withchilli, limeandshrimp paste) is seng 20;fishfrom20,000Rp; ner) sushi &sashimiplattersfrom60,000Rp; curry 20,000Rp; simple, butthefishwith choice isoverwhelming. Thedécormaybe canrecommend somethingifthe The staff the huge iceboxes andenter fishheaven. enter viathesizzlingbarbecue. Peer into keep walkingandworry, it’snotclosed; no,don’t you approach fromtheseafront, spot intownforfresh If fishandseafood. dip ifyouare craving cheese. much of achain asPizzaHut,soiswortha flamboyant flavours. sumptuous platters fortwowith allsortsof 10) make upforit. choice islimited buttheflavours more than and tender upflakynaan of thesubcontinent,serving generation Keralan, Malabar isalittleslice from 15,000Rp; 35,000Rp; fish makes anexcellentchoice. sashimi erage Japanese bill. Makassar’s abundant but very reasonable compared withtheav- Theprices are forMakassar, high Beach. nextdoortoHotelin townisright Losari from 20,000Rp; 297) are popularwithwell-to-dolocals. squid orshrimp. ortwobeforeand aBintang tryingthefresh food andcheap beer. witha sunset Start rewarded witharowdycrowd,goodsea- the stairs tothe3rdfloorwhere youwillbe a Makassar institution, keep onclimbing What more couldyouwant? are swiftandtheBintangs ice-cold. service welcome atlunchtime. Thefishisfresh, the cloths andair-con, thelatter particularly moreslightly withtable- upmarket affair Kayangan isa Lae, streetthe same asLae Shiver metimbers, aboard a this isset Kayangan Makan Rumah Shogun Restaurant Phinisi Restaurant Phinisi Pizza Ria Club Velvet Kios Semarang Kios Most of thehotels have restaurants that Rumah Makan Malabar Makan Rumah Theonlyauthentic Japanese restaurant An evening jazzlounge Anevening that offers Lae h SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar lunch &dinner)

h (cnr Jl Kajaolalido &JlAhmadYani;(cnr JlKajaolalido pizzas h kare kambing (goatcurry).The h ( % (Imperial Aryaduta Hotel,JlSombaOpu (Imperial lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner) 334326, Jl Datu Musseng 8;fish334326, JlDatuMusseng

(Jl Penghibur; mains15,000- (Jl (Hotel Pantai JlPasar Gapura, Ikan

( h %

The closest thingto Theclosest ( % cobek-cobek (sauce ( lunch &dinner) 324102; JlPenghibur 2; % Runbyasecond- Quite simply,the 319776; JlSulawesi264; It’snotquite as 325273; JlDatuMus- h lunch &din- Along 677

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI well-stocked food courtaboveUpstairs inthesame the taste likebe warneditdoesn’t thereal deal. foranice-cream,into Swensen’s although cakes and pastries. this littlebakery has agoodrange of basic corner fromthemassive Marannu Hotel, entertainment whiletheyeat. extensive menuof wanting foodforthose the drinksflow.Theyalsohave apretty gardenfeaturesdoor beer live bandsand Hotel, thisout- opposite Beach theLosari their stuff onthewater here.their stuff bad ideaastheMakassar jet-skicrowdstrut a perfect viewof Sundaysare thesunset. a to discover bythepitcher draftBintang and thehotel through bar intown.Walkright on stiltsover thisisthebestlocated thesea, be merrybefore theirSaturdayfunrun. HarriersHouse gatherhere toeat,drinkand in town.OnFriday,thesmallbandof Hash isdefinitely Kios Semarang livelyseveral places.Theaforementioned Vagina St. want toknowhowbaditis?Localscall the proverbial drunken sailor. Youreally raoke bars andare bestavoided byallbut little more as ka- thanbrothelsdisguised A lotof thebars aroundtheportarea are Drinking ‘Chicken GordonBlue’. menu, withinternational favourites such as full-size schooner. It’skitsch, butsoisthe 678 drink orbeer. 50,000Rp, which usually includes asoft hits. Entrycosts 30,000Rpto ing MTV clubs with priceydrinks andbandsplay- clubs rumbleon until about 3am. delving intothe dance zone. Mostof the cash. Itisbestto warm-upatabarbefore expensive, as thisishowtheyrake inthe can be prohibitivelyDrinking atnightclubs NIGHTCLUBS Entertainment anuddin) fordable price. out good,cheap Indonesian foodatanaf- If thehotweatherisjusttoomuch, duck Ballairate SunsetBar Ballairate Further southonJlPenghibur, there are Bakery Candy Many of night- the top-end hotels house Kafe Kareba SOUTH SULAWESI •• Makassar SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar is Kantin danMurahturning Baik Supermarket Galeal

(Jl Baumassepe) (Jl (Jl Penghibur) (Jl (Pantai Hotel) Gapura Onthecorner the Justaroundthe watering hole watering hole (Jl Sultan Has- (Jl Built

Indah Mall complex. Mall Indah from town. it isstillfindingitsfeet,development, asit’safairway cost about25,000Rp. drivers knowtheplace.there Ataxi should free. It’sontheeastsideof town–alltaxi stop.Foreignersis anessential often get in if youwanttheMakassar experience,this prisoners strobe-heavy, andthelighting but of biggest inSulawesi.Themusicistech-no the edge of town,thiswarehouse clubisone hipsters hangout. pensive drinksallround,this iswhere the Jakarta, onWednesdayandex- ladiesnight the ‘in’clubintown.DJsandbandsfrom Theatre, thisiscurrentlythe oldBenteng foreigners) more like a market thanamall. amarket more like Ratu Indah Mall Indah Ratu Mall Panukkukang Mall Makassar G Mall place tobeformost Makassarese: Shopping centresfrom Sengkang. are the tery, Makassarese brasswork,andsilk cloth jewellery, Torajan pot- handicrafts,Chinese Indonesia, such asKendari filigree silver souvenirs, includingcrafts from allover great collectionsof jewellery,‘antiques’and Jl SombaOpuhasplentyof shopswith Shopping Theatre Makassar Studio 21 subtitles): their originallanguage (withIndonesian emas showingcurrent Western filmsin There are modernmultiscreen cin- several CINEMAS streets near the port. streets neartheport. this isapopular mallintheaffluent easternsuburbs. hard house worldofhard house thenewIndonesia. of corridors andyou’llfindyourselfinthe thevideoarcadeandamaze der through ago, thisplaceisaveritable labyrinth.Wan- which were alltherage inAsia afew years the basement carpark. the basement this istucked away ratheruninvitinglyin the mostpopularof thehotel nightclubs, more central malls,this couldbeanywhere intheworld. Botol Cafe Pharos M Club Colors The massivecentrepiece ofthe newTanjung Bunga (Jl Sam Ratulangi) On the top floor of the Ratu OnthetopfloorofRatu SamRatulangi) (Jl (Jl Pasar Ikan; admission variable) admissionvariable) Pasar Ikan; (Jl Another Egyptian-themed club, (admission incl 1st drink from25,000Rp) (admission incl1stdrink (Jl Nusakam Bangan2;admission free for Nusakam (Jl

(Quality Hotel,JlSombaOpu235) The oldestintown,asprawling messand (Jl Sam Ratulangi) The bestof the SamRatulangi) (Jl (Jl Bali) Hidden awayintheback Bali)Hidden (Jl Bigger than anIndonesianvillage, www.lonelyplanet.com Housed in Housed By far On Luwuk, Gorontalo and Manado.Luwuk, Gorontalo Kendari (131,000/405,000Rp), Kolonedale, coastto andthen uptheeast Bau to Bau (249,000/786,000Rp); andthe TenggaraSirimau toKupangin Nusa class 116,000/357,000Rp); the (economy/1stKelimutu toBalikpapan Selayar onMondayandFriday. Selayar PalauTuesday andFriday.Italsoserves everyscenic triptoandfromRantepao Surabaya. h day of theweek. Jakarta,Denpasar, Jayapura andBiakevery p669. oncurrenttails fares, theairfares see map, rent priceswithairlinesandagents. Forde- route. Shop aroundandcheck forthecur- and theeasternmost islandscallhere en Java between Indonesia, asmanyflights Makassar iswell-connected totherest of AIR &Away There Getting www.lonelyplanet.com Papua. and Jakarta, Kalimantan, Ambonand East Makassar, mostlyonthewaytoSurabaya More thanhalfthePelni stopsin fleet BOAT and Ambon. flies dailyanddirectly toandfromJakarta Biak andJayapura. daily toandfromPalu, Jakarta, Balikpapan, service fourtimesaweek. service Timika. There isalsoahandyYogyakarta Biak, Jayapura, Manado, Palu, Ternate and Kendari, Balikpapan, karta, Surabaya, Jl Bawakaraeng) Ambon. Palu, Jakarta, and Surabaya,Denpasar to andfromManado, Kendari, Gorontalo, karta andGorontolo.karta terised. Ticketsterised. are alsoavailable at any rani 33) Riyadi 6) Riyadi The Garuda Garuda Batavia Air Lion Air Adam Air Useful includethe services Merpati Merpati DAS Sriwijaya Air Sriwijaya Mandala Airlines Mandala 8am-2pm Mon-Sat) fliesdailytoandfromJakarta and fliesdirectly toandfromManado, ( % Pelni office ( (; (Garuda % 555774; HasanuddinAirport) (Merpati NusantaraAirlines; (Merpati ( connectsMakassar andJa- % ( 327038; JlAhmadYani 22) % (Hasanuddin Airport) 4660999; JlAndiPangeran Petta- 3655255; JlAhmadYani 35)

is efficient and compu- isefficient ( % ( %

322947; JlCokroaminoto7) 331401; Jl Sam Ratulangi; 331401; Jl Sam Ratulangi; % 3654747; JlSlamet fliestoJa- Tilongkabila Umsini and makes the fliesdaily Awu and % 442892; flies

an emptyseat. towaitawhilefor youmayneed However, from theterminal, saving atripintotown. down ontheMakassar–Maros road,300m Toraja andallpointsnorth canbeflagged terminals nolater than8am. in themorningsoit’sgoodtoget tothe Sungguminasa. Mallengkeri, orcontinueontoTerminal Jl Jendral Sudirman.Ask tobedroppedat fromMakassarMinasa’ Mall orfromalong take aredguminasa, pete-pete marked ‘S 1½ hours). Toget toMallengkeri orSung- toMalino (10,000Rp,pete-pete services to change inBulukumba. four hours). ForPantai Bira,youmayhave three hours) andPantai Bira(35,000Rp, Makassar, including Bulukumba(28,000Rp, andKijangsgotoplacessoutheast ofbuses southeast of thecitycentre. Fromhere, from alongJlBulusaraung. pete marked ‘Daya’from Makassar Mall or (2000Rp, 30minutes), catch anyblue to therest of Sulawesi.Toget toPanaikang to townsacrossSouthSulawesiandbuses no kidding.There are alsoKijangservices onanaeroplane, than businessclassseats to Tana Toraja, asitoffers better legroom 10am and10pm.Thisisthebusof choice (75,000Rp)at toRantepao air-con service Litha Bus hours). (45,000Rp,eight and Rantepao (33,000Rp,fourhours)hours), Sengkang north, includingPare Pare (22,000Rp,three where there are regular toallpoints buses eastern suburbsontheroadtoairport, are Terminal mostuseful. Panaikang isinthe Makassar hasnumerousterminals butthree BUS &KIJANG als. There are three fares from 64,000Rp arrange atthe airport boothoutside arriv- tre of Makassar. Prepaid are taxis easyto Hasanuddin Airportis22km fromthecen- TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting hotels. Pelni boats,isonlyabecakridefrommost Pelabuhan Makassar by port,which isused Pelni agency around town.Thechaotic Arriving by plane, buses toPareArriving byplane,buses Pare, runalldaybutareBuses mostfrequent Terminal hasregular Sungguminasa Terminal Mallengkeri isabout 10km ( SOUTH SULAWESI••Makassar % 324847) hasatwicedailyVIP

pete-

679 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI the centre. at Terminal DayaorPanaikang toget to tochangemay need toanother stop outsidethemaingate,you although terminal). to theairport(which is500mfrom the to Maros (see right theentrance ) alsopasses (4000Rp) passtheairport.TheDamribus day-trippers. you canprobably share aboatwithsome arrange tobepicked uplater. On Sunday from thespecialjetty inMakassar and pre- boat forabout200,000Rponeway orreturn the water’s pretty clear! available. Compared toMakassar harbour, fresh fishmeals. Snorkelling gear isalso ask around,youcanbuycolddrinks and minutes towalkaroundtheisland.Ifyou nothing much todo–ittakes afulltwo there’sparticularly onSunday.Otherwise, lona ispopularforfishing andsnorkelling, A tinyspeckjustoffMakassar, PulauSama- SamalonaPulau AROUND MAKASSAR Makassar ishot,so usingabecak, PUBLIC TRANSPORT a metered isabout70,000Rp. taxi of 1500Rpfortheshortcut.Toairport, costs 75,000Rp.There isalsoasmalltollfee but mosthotels are inthecentre which to 86,000Rp,dependingonthedestination, 680 of therestaurants around theisland are pletely empty for the rest of Some theweek. It’s very busyonSunday, butalmost com- plentyofswimming (although locals do). tourist attractions and is notgreat for This tinyisland iscluttered withstrange Kayangan Pulau cheaper, andmuch faster, thanbecaks. out atabout4000Rpakilometre andcanbe have meters andare worthusing;itworks around townis2000Rp.Air-conditioned taxis at theMakassar Mall, fare andthestandard around town.Themain 10,000Rp andup;localspayabout5000Rp and/or theheat.Theywantanythingfrom hoping you’llsuccumbtotheirbadgering that are thebecakdrivers like tokerb-crawl, canbearelief. or taxi Thefriendlyoldcrooks Pete-pete andDamribuses To get here youwill have tocharter a Pete-pete SOUTH SULAWESI •• Around Makassar SOUTH SULAWESI••AroundMakassar from Makassar Mall to Maros pete-pete terminal is to thecity pete-pete pete-pete

(3000Rp, 30minutes). Makassar, anda one hour)toMaros from Makassar Mall in Pulau Kayangan Wisata Bahari fect Ifyoufeel like here, forsunsets. staying positioned over thewater, andmanyare per- combine itwith atrip toBantimurung. tively, charter a walk the lastcoupleof kilometres. Alterna- andthen off onthe roadtoBantimurung, to the‘Taman turn- Purbakala Leang-Leang’ cheese. karsts here have more holesthanaSwiss caves intheMaros district, asthelimestone 30,000 years ago. There are 60orsoknown have provided of glimpses life from8000to is unknown,but relics fromnearbycaves cient paintings.Theage of thepaintings the roadtothese caves, noted fortheiran- A few kilometres before is Bantimurung Leang Gua Leang Air Terjun Bantimurung Bantimurung meal ontheisland. followedbyaperfect cruise forasunset 10,000Rp; onSunday15,000Rp)until10pm– 15minutes every (perpersonkassar return andair-con.and includesatellite TV thedeluxerooms, although optionsare huge visitors, sotrynottoencourage the trade. to plummeting aslocalstrapthem to sell numbersin themid-1800s.However, are Alfred Wallacecollected specimenshere . Thenaturalist for itsbeautifulbutterflies cave enroute. isalsofamous Bantimurung atorchwill need tomake the itthrough pretty, buttreacherous, you pool. However, fall, there’s anothersmallerwaterfall anda Makassar. Upstream fromthemainwater- ful andpicturesque retreat fromtheheatof creative concrete, butitremains awonder- strangers!), andpeppered withlitter and on weekends (get yourphototaken with translates ascrowdedwithday-trippers classic andit’sa then youscanthegroundlevel outofup, it’sstraight JurassicPark, but lushly vegetated Looking limestonecliffs. from Makassar, are amidwaterfalls set r 150.000-350,000Rp) Catch apete-peteCatch fromMaros (see above ) Boats travel fromthespecialjettyinMa- Catch aDamribusor Catch objek wisata (touristobject). That hassomewhatoverpriced pete-pete from Maros, and pete-pete toBantimurung

(admission 10,000Rp) www.lonelyplanet.com pete-pete (5000Rp, ( % 0411-315752; , 42km 126,000Rp) water. It’savery peacefulplace. and hot All roomsincludesatellite TV agreement hammered hasbeen outhere. of political history,asmanyanimportant Malino’s in. infamousrain sets hours). Make sure youleave earlybefore toMalino (10,000Rp,1½ pete-pete services wall warungs. youcaneatathole-in-the- rants; otherwise 150m above themuddy market. of therooms.It’sonmainroadabout prices are equallyhuge given thestandard turn-off. sign asyoucomeintotownforthewaterfall Malino’ AlamLombasang for the‘Wisata amidricefields4kmeastofset town.Look AirTerjun Takapala There areCelebes. many scenicwalks,and struck forMaluku andPosointheResort recently, peaceagreements have been lands’ ill-fated plansforafederation. More nesian leaders whoendorsedtheNether- placeofmeeting Indo- Kalimantan andEast Malino isahillresort oncefamous asthe % Malino www.lonelyplanet.com they first enter ‘town’. The Bira Beach Hotelthey first enter ‘town’. The BiraBeach 5000Rp perperson at thetoll boothwhen pongkolang. Foreign tourists mustpay ofsection theroadinto Pantai Bira,JlKa- islocatedAlmost everything along asmall &Information Orientation than not,tourists. goats outnumber vehicles and,more often Pantaithe week Biraisarelaxed spot,where rich rewards fortheexperienced. During area insmallnumbers, asBiraoffers some tourist trail.Divers are alsodiscovering the ellers offthemainMakassar–Tana Toraja white-sand beaches are drawingsometrav- commercial activitieshere, butthepowdery boat buildingandweaving are theprimary Fishing, inBali. delKuta away fromcosta South Sulawesi,butfear not,thisisaworld Bira isthenumberone beach destinationin % PANTAI BIRA 254,000Rp) Hotel PinangMas Hotel Terminal hasregular Sungguminasa Both of thehotels have popularrestau- Celebes Resort 0417 0413 is a must for those with a sense withasense isamustforthose istheplaceforhuge views,butthe ( % is a spectacular isaspectacular waterfall

( % 21300; JlHasanuddin1;rfrom

21173; Jl Karaeng Pado; rfrom 21173; JlKaraeng Sulawesi Diver because the currentsbecause can besurprisingly Inn is good, butdon’t venture too far per day. The beach infront of BiraView willcostabout 150,000Rp and Pulau Betang the bestspots. Atriparound PulauLihukan but itisworthchartering aboattoget to tion duringourstay. but nobody wasabletogive usanyinforma- Hotel, also available theBiraBeach through the pricedepends onnumbers. Divingis from€300. Fundivesstart are available, but the waters forafew years, 10-dive packages exploring instructorwhohasbeen German so itisbesttowaituntilMakassar. ity andtheconnectionaren’t thatreliable, kolang) Pulau Betang. Pulau Lihukan,andsouthern eastern Marumasa, northern around PulauSelayar, drop-offs. Thebestspotsarecoral atseveral rays andhuge groupers, plusthere issuperb Bira are particularlypopularwithsharks, sis really isonexperience. Thewaters off the currents are often strong, theempha- around Pantai Biraisimpressive, butas diversExperienced thatthediving say DIVING &SNORKELLING Activities ket streets inBiravillage. There isasmallmar- clack of theirloomsasyouwalkalongthe work andgossip.Youcanheartheclick- atdifferent stages ofseen construction. Bulukumba. Boatsof varioussizescanbe village andatTanah ontheroadto Beru craft Boat buildersage-old use techniques to Sights .com) Internet isavailable at agency, Pelni agency andmoneychanger. has awartel, which alsoactsasapostal hotel staff. of friskymonkeys; askfordirections from Bira hotels there arewithplenty somecaves small hillwithgreat views.NearthePantai Timur takes youtothetopof two days. Snorkelling isalsoimpressive off Bira, The maindive centre inBirais Weavers to houses gatherunderraised A shorthike from the roadnearPantai ( , based atAndaBungalows.Runbya , based pasar Bira)heldinthevillage every traditional ships atahefty20,000Rpperhour. Electric- SOUTH SULAWESI••Pantai Bira ( % 82125; www.south-sulawesi-diver atMarumasa near Bira Muhlis Warnet Muhlis Pua Janggo,a (Jl Kapong- (Jl

South

681 SULAWESI SULAWESI ὄὄ ὄὄ

SULAWESI be considered ano-no. here, sotoplessbathing forwomenshould around the localsare fairly conservative -fringed affair. inmind that Bear Timur with day-trippers fromMakassar. day, whentheplaceisusually crawling and enjoytheserenity –exceptonSun- You canhire huge rubber tyres, inflatable Hotel. about 100mnorthwestof BiraBeach isaperfect stretch(West Beach) of beach, The tidescanbesevere, but SWIMMING Hotel. BiraViewInnandBeach Guesthouse, hotels, includingRiswan day fromseveral ment canberented forabout40,000Rpper strong andpeoplehave drowned. Equip- sea views and many aresea cluttered around showing their age. Very few have genuine it paysto shop around, assomeplaces are with private bathrooms andverandas, but Most accommodation is in smallcottages Sleeping 682 1 3 2 AROUND PANTAIBIRA SOUTH SULAWESI••Pantai Bira (East Beach) ismore yourserene, Beach) (East 7 5 3 0 0 A Lihukan 12 9 Pulau 6

Jl Kapongkolang Pantai Bira Selayar 13 Selat Ta'Buntuleng 4 To TanahBeru(15km); 10 Bulukumba (40km); Betang (4km) Makassar (260km) 11 To Pulau Paloppalakaya Pasi'lohé Teluk (West Beach) Pantai Barat 1 300 m 0.2 miles Entrance Gate 0 0 Tanateng Bira Janggo Pua See Inset Pasar Bira Marumasa Pantai Barat B 8 2 Pulau Selayar Pantai Timur (East Beach) 1 mile Pantai Ferry to (26km) 2 km

only roadintown. back fromthebeach, clustered aroundthe ‘gardens’ of deadcoral.Otherplacesare set 200,000Rp; taurant heretaurant isone of thebest in Bira. from150,000Rp.Theres-bungalows start Rooms are large, ifthreadbare, andair-con tages meansthe balconyfacesthegarden. stract notionhere, asthedesignof thecot- view’isasomewhatab- ‘Sea up tospeed. abitofneeds tender loving care tobringit family-run place that has been recomfamily-run place that has been mend- 100,000-200,000Rp; Rates go through the roof go through during holidays. Rates bungalows outthe back. clean, comfortable andair-con.ellite Cheaperrooms are TV in veritable suites, withdecentbathrooms,sat- andarein anelegantwooden stilthouse The more expensive deluxe roomsare set of theroomstake advantageview. of thesea ploit itslocation. Thisistheonlyhotel toreally ex- Beach. better stateof repair than thenearbyBira viewandtheyaregenuine sea inaslightly hasitsownporching thebay.Each witha overlook- inwoodencottages onacliff set a TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Harbour...... (see 2) Rumah MakanSederhana...... Rumah MakanMelati...... Salassa Guesthouse...... Riswan Guesthouse...... Nusa BiraIndahCottage...... Kaluku Kafe...... Hotel Sapolohe...... Bira ViewInn...... Bira BeachHotel&Restaurant...... Anda Bungalows...... South SulawesiDiver...... (see4) Monkey Caves...... Dive Centre...... (see5) Wartel...... (see 5) Wartel &InternetOffice...... Postal Agency...... (see5) Pelni Agency...... (see5) Muhlis Warnet...... Moneychanger...... (see 5) Bira View Inn Bira View Hotel Sapolohe Hotel Salassa Guesthouse Bira BeachHotel ) Thebestof thebeachfront hotels, few Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a ) Oneof thefirst hotels here, it a ( % ( % ( % ) Thebestroomshere are /fax 82128;r125,000-250,000Rp; (r 40,000-60,000Rp) /fax 83522;bungalows125,000- 82043; fax81515;cottages www.lonelyplanet.com A small, Asmall, 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A1 A1 A1 A2 A1 B2 A1 A2 A1 A1 A1 B2 A1 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com meals are available onrequest. have agoodknowledge of thelocalarea and include attachedbathroom.Theowners with fan/air-con150,000Rp/300,000Rp; fan/air-con 100,000/175,000Rp; rooms have shared ed foritshomelyatmosphere. Twocheaper www.lonelyplanet.com rated. The bathroom is almost Balinese style, rated. ThebathroomisalmostBalinese new air-con bungalowsare creatively deco- galows are aroundalushgardenandthe set only ithadabeachside Allthebun- setting. est roomsintownare foundattheAnda…if shop, making it easy to lose dayshere.shop, makingiteasytolose is alsoabeachfront restaurant andcraft cottage thatcantake uptosixpeople. There galow, andtheownerhasrecently addeda amidpalmtrees.setting There isonebun- Pantai Timur, Kaluku Kafe hasapristine to soakupandnotmuch of agarden. the locationisaletdownwithnoviews ever, air-con optionsinclude a breezy porch. How- here are inbetter shapethansomeandthe 70,000Rp) as aprivate locker showsomethought. (shower andsquattoilet),buttouches such rooms are basicandincludeshared facilities and allmealsare taken communally.The Host Riswanisfriendlyandknowledgeable isthemostwelcominghome intown. house overlooking thisramblingoldstilt thesea, cottage 120,000/280,000Rp) Riswan Guesthouse Riswan Nusa Bira Indah Cottage Nusa BiraIndah Anda Bungalows Kaluku Kafe Kaluku culture, plus their language and sailing skills, make them thefirst choice ofmany captains. make culture, plus theirlanguage and sailing skills, theirFilipino outward-looking shipping lines acrosstheworld. Like neighbours, theMinahasans’ journey to fishreefs coast ofAustralia. inthecyclonebelt offthenorthern 60 Indonesianschooners atMelvilleBayin1803;todaymany more the risky(andillegal) stillmake Australia.European Aboriginal innorthern cave Britishexplorer art MatthewFlindersencountered of tradingandcultural linkswiththeAustralian Aborigines andtheirshipsare featured inpre- boats beingbuiltat MarumasaandTanah Beru,bothnearBira. usingcenturies-old designsandtechniques.coasts ofSulawesi and Kalimantan, Youcansee throughout theregion. Bugis andMakassarese ofSingapore) andSelangor(nearKuala Lumpur), Johor (north andtradedfreely(Kalimantan), South Sulawesiinthe17thand18thcenturies. They establishedstrategic tradingposts atKutai wooden schoonersthroughoutIndonesia. The Bugis are Indonesia’s best-known sailors,tradingandcarryinggoodsontheirmagnificent SULAWESI SEAFARERS Many Minahasans of ,relative ofNorth newcomers tosailingfolklore, work oninternationalMany Minahasans The Bajau,Bugis, seafarers ButoneseandMakassarese ofSulawesihave a500-yearhistory The Bugis’ resulting influenceexpanded rapidlyafter inaDiasporafrom thefallofMakassar, Set in a dominant position on a bluff inadominantpositiononbluff Set

(www.kalukukafe.com; dinbungalow/ (www.kalukukafe.com; ( % mandi, whiletwomore

Theonlychoice on ( 82125; fax85033;bungalows %

a ( % 82127; rinclallmeals ) Thelarge rooms /fax 0411-83519; r with /fax 0411-83519;rwith a ) The smart- pinisi (schooners)are stillbuiltalongthesouth Kijang godirectly toPantai Bira for35,000Rp. From Makassar (Terminal Mallengkeri), afew BUS, BEMO&KIJANG almosttwodays. a slowride,taking to Labuanbajo (92,000Rp) inFlores, butit’s Selayar. Twiceamonth,there isadirect boat Pulau The harbouratPantai Timur services BOAT &Away There Getting sian fare andfreshly grilledfish. cheap Indone- of namelesswarungsserving cluster of andacouple foodanddrinkstalls Rumah Makan Sederhana. eats, including restaurants alongthemaindragforcheap 20,000Rp foramaincourse. most. Mostof theplacescharge around and hasmore of than aWestern selection at AndaBungalowsisthecleanestof thelot is wellregarded andbreezy. Therestaurant beer. Therestaurant BiraIndah attheNusa and Western dishesand,mercifully, cold arange of seafood, Indonesian Both serve View Innoffer viewsover sunset thesea. Hotel andBirabut onlytheBiraBeach Most of thehotels have simplerestaurants, Eating said forthecompetition. said attention somethingthatcan’tbe todetail, sinkandtheplacesmacksofwith aseparate Opposite the Bira Beach Hotel thereOpposite theBiraBeach isa There are acoupleof localIndonesian SOUTH SULAWESI••Pantai Bira Rumah Makan Melati and

683 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 125,000Rp; bathroom65,000- with fan44,000Rp, air-con&private rent leave schedules. Buses Terminal Mal- times. Hotelssame should know the cur- and 3pm andfromPamatata aroundthe bour for Pamatata (17,000Rp) around10am andhotwater.prices deliver satellite TV rooms andareliable restaurant. Thehighest most visitors, thanks toarange of decent and charter aboat. equipment (orrent someinPantai Bira) is good,butyouwillhave tobring yourown ling nearsmall beaches andpicturesque scenery.Thesnorkel- few kilometres southof Benteng. Bontobangun Benteng drum, kept inanannexe neartheformer of a2000-year-old Dongson Vietnamese lanes, perhapsaccountingforthe presence repository of fromnearbyshipping flotsam Like Pantai longcoastlineisa Bira,Selayar’s west coastandin the Konjo. Mostreside alongtheinfertile habited by theBugis,Makassarese and western peninsulaof Sulawesiandisin- This long,narrowislandliesoffthesouth- % PULAU SELAYAR known asPulauKambing. also the nearby,uninhabited PulauBetang, tocharterneed aboattovisitLihukanand aboat.Infact,you’ll ther out,you’llneed the bestcoral,whichsnakes. isfur- Tosee and coral,butmindthecurrents andsea and offthebeach there are acres grass of sea village there isaninteresting old Ontheprettyhouses. beach westof the ourful clothonhandloomsundertheir at Weavers &PULAUBETANG PULAU LIHUKAN (28,000Rp) fromthere. (8000Rp) andtake aKijangtoMakassar pete-pete fromPantai BiratoBulukumba your hotel thedaybefore; get otherwise a (40,000Rp)shouldbebooked sar through at around3pm). port fromBulukumbatoPantai Birastops lukumba, andanothertoPantai Bira(trans- Alternatively, catch aKijangorbemotoBu- 684 Ferries (2½hours) leave Pantai Birahar- Hotel Berlian Hotel mainattractionsare itssandy Selayar’s Direct KijangsfromPantai BiratoMakas- 0414 SOUTH SULAWESI •• Pulau Lihukan &Pulau Betang SOUTH SULAWESI••Pulau Lihukan a ) offers the beds of choice for Ta’Buntuleng make heavy, col- Pulau Pasi , opposite Benteng, ( % , themaintown. Benteng 21129; JlSudirman,Benteng; r (BontobangunFort),a , graveyard with theferry fromPantai Bira. lengkeri inMakassar each morningtolink h sparingly for cultural events. sparingly forculturalevents. builtin1881 andnowused Bugis house BolaSoba Pusat Kebudayaan nates thesquare. Southof thetowncentre is ofA statue PrinceArung Palakka domi- Sights &Activities Telkom office Warnet Prima postoffice Main BNI bank Information Watampone. Hasanuddintan tocedeterritory, including overland sul- campaign,forcingGowanese 1666 andralliedthelocalBugisfor along and hisfollowers returned fromexilein rulerPrinceArungPalakkaauthoritarian Indies.The anti-Dutch powerintheEast the overlordship of Gowa,thestrongest of stateunder tal Bone, asemi-autonomous here.up staying wasthecapi- Watampone good range of hotels, butfew foreigners end locals, isasmalltownwith Watampone Known more simplyasBone(bone-eh)by % WATAMPONE travelling onliveaboard trips. larly fromSelayar. Mostvisitors are divers and camponabeach. Boatsleave irregu- Alternatively,Pulau BoneRate. take atent kepala desa withvillagersyou canstay if youaskthe the islands,butifyoumanage toget here a rich varietyof marineandbirdlife. TakaLaut with amarinereserve BoneRate), of and extensive reefs intheregion are nowpart Islands, isjust20%bigger. Someof theislands atoll. Thelargest, Kwajalein intheMarshall theworld’sthird-largestBone Rate, coral isthe2220-sq-kmTakaPulau BoneRate, andnorthofSoutheast of PulauSelayar, TAKA BONERATE per hr. of Indonesia’s most interesting regional col- the onlyATMs intown. Museum Lapawawoi Museum There isnoofficialaccommodationon Taka Bone Rate Marine NationalPark (Taman Marine BoneRate Taka 7am-4pm) 0481 /pop84,000 (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Sukawati) Oneof (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlSukawati) isa formerpalace housing one (village head) at Bone Rate on (village head)atBoneRate (Jl Monginsidi) (Jl (Jl Sukawati) Internetaccessat15,000Rp Sukawati) (Jl (Jl Thamrin; Thamrin; (Jl

(Jl Thamrin; admissionfree; Thamrin; (Jl www.lonelyplanet.com h

(Jl Sukawati) (Jl 8am-9pm) , ahuge Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com local menu. chicken oneof onthe theleadinglights best placeintown,withspicybarbecued hotel, butthewater isn’tthatinviting. a large swimmingpoolatthebackof the hotwater andair-con.ellite TV, There is best hotel intown,thebigroomshave sat- 10,000-25,000Rp; charming, yetdustyrooms. while inthemainbuildingthere are huge, are rathersmallandlocated outtheback, Dutch colonialstyle. Thecheaper rooms this isaformerroyalresidence, builtinthe 30,000; the mainshoppingstreet, JlPonggawae. food)along serving (eating houses warungandPadangnight inthemarket(eating houses) area, and nesian favourites. iskinghere,nese butthere are afew Indo- somethinginSulawesi.Chi- that issaying here islonger thanitskaraoke songlistand southeast of themassive themuseum, menu 35,000Rp, s/d50,000/70,000Rp) Jl Jendral Sudirman14;rfrom120,000Rp; Jl Jendral Wisma Bolaridie Sleeping &Eating state occasions. memorabilia anddozens of photographs of lections, includinganoddarrayof court www.lonelyplanet.com in the centre of Watampone. (18,000Rp, two hours) leave from JlMangga bemo from JlSulawesi.Kijangs toSengkang town, so take anojek(motorbike or taxi) early to avoid longwaits. It’s2kmwestof to theinconvenient andoversized terminal also runtoPalopo andPare Pare. Trytoget nal Panaikang (30,000Rp,five hours). Buses connections toBira, andMakassar’s Termi- to Bulukumba(25,000Rp, three hours) for travel Kijangs andbuses tion, butseveral isnotamajorWatampone transportjunc- BUS &BEMO east Sulawesi(see right ). nearby portof andKolakainSouth- Bajoe Four ferries plytheroute between BOAT &Away There Getting Dynasty Restaurant Ramayana Makan Rumah Hotel WisataWatampone Hotel There isacluster of simple h breakfast, lunch&dinner) h ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) 21412; Jl Merdeka 6;smallr 21412; JlMerdeka

(Jl Thamrin; meals15,000- Thamrin; (Jl Believe itornot, Believe

( % (Jl Ponggawae; meals (Jl Ashortstroll rumah makan rumah makan 21362; fax22367; as ) The The gah village inthe middle of the lake, goacross gah along can speed (80,000Rp withaguide),in which timeyou ter aboatfor about 40,000Rpfor twohours a sports field alongJlSudirman) andchar- of 7’,opposite alanewaymarked ‘Setapak make forthelongboatterminal (attheend up the process. speeding too…silt fromdeforestationdisappear is geologists the lake believe willeventually As they merged, thegulfdisappeared and ern Toraja andtherest of SouthSulawesi. the lake south- wasonceagulfbetween and magnificentbirdlife. believe Geologists fringed bywetlands,withfloatinghouses Danau Tempe isalarge, shallowlake DANAU TEMPE Sights &Activities BNI bank ven good hotels. silkindustryandseveral nearby sceniclake, atraditionalhandwo- isasmallriversideSengkang townwitha % SENGKANG an ferry arrives. offtheferry Get andjumpon justaftering Makassar the and Rantepao, headofftomostplaces,includ- buses Bajoe, the endof theincredibly in longcauseway hind themarket. From thebusterminal at fewevery minutes fromaspecialstopbe- 40,000/50,000Rp fordeck/businessclass. to/from Makassar orKendari. Tickets are times are forthebenefitof travelling those ern peninsula. Alldeparture andarrival for Kolaka,thegateway tothesoutheast- at5pm,8pmand11pmfromBajoe evening forconnectionstoKolaka.Watampone, isthemajorBajoe regional port,8kmfrom Bajoe AROUND WATAMPONE Pahlawan. phone calls,there isaTelkom onJl Office an ATM andcan change money.Fortele- through triptoKendarithrough (95,000Rp). side of tickets thebusterminal, sell forthe Kajuara,agencies alongJlBesse either get aconnectioninPalopo. bus Several SOUTH SULAWESI••AroundWatampone There are noorganised boattours, so bemosgotoBajoe From Watampone, Three ferries hours) (eight leave every If you’re (45,000Rp), headingtoRantepao ojek, busorbemotoWatampone. 0485 (Bank NegaraIndonesia;JlAhmadYani) Sungai Walanae, visitSalotan-

has 685 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 8; r50,000-100,000Rp) 125,000Rp; 686 a fan 50,000/65,000Rp,withair-confrom125,000/175,000Rp; south of the terminal. Kijangs and Pelni boats are afew metres Kartini. Agencies buses, for long-distance the bus terminal in Makassar (33,000Rp,fourhours). regular to/fromTerminal buses Panaikang (18,000Rp, twohours) and very andBajoe, Kijangs alongthe roadtoWatampone in Palopo. There are plentyof and buses (six hours), aconnection you mayneed jang. Ifyou’re travelling to/fromRantepao Pare (15,000Rp,twohours) by bus orKi- isreadily accessiblefromPareSengkang &Away There Getting AlSalamII Hotel Sleeping &Eating are andsarongs where onsale. silkscarves just walkaroundthe a recommend someworkshops, andcharter atyourhotellic transport.Ask to thestaff mote villages, withlittleornoreliable pub- silk workshops (silk) weaving industry.Youcanvisitthe otherattractionisitssuteraSengkang’s SILK WEAVING range tripsandrecommend placestovisit. atthehotels canalsoar-ing atdusk.Staff come back.Aboattripisparticularlycharm- to mains 15,000-25,000Rp; TV andhot-water showers. TV rooms. Thedeluxe roomsincludesatellite friendly, family-runplacehaswell-tended like mostrestaurants inSengkang. alcohol, serve Itdoesn’t staples. Chinese there isaheartymenuof Indonesianand One of thefew real restaurants intown, the only eatery serving Bintang intown. Bintang the onlyeatery serving restaurant andbarthisispretty much of reasonable rooms.Italsohasaninformal Sudirman maindrag,thishotel hasarange that includeattachedbathrooms. this large, ramblinghotel hassmartrooms pete-pete fromtheterminal. Alternatively, Bemos tolocaldestinations leave from Bemos Hotel Apada Hotel Pondok Eka Restoran Tomudi Restoran Batu villageontheotherside,and ) Set aroundanattractive courtyard, this Set SOUTH SULAWESI••Pare Pare a ) Formerlyownedbyaprincess, , butmostare located inre- ( ( %

% ( % Tucked awayjustoff theJl /fax 21296; Jl Maluku 12;s/dwith /fax 21296;JlMaluku /fax 21053; Jl Nangka 9;r100,000- /fax 21053;JlNangka behind the market onJl 21278; fax21893;JlEmmiSaelan ( h % breakfast, lunch&dinner) in Sengkang, inSengkang, market 21885; JlAndiOddang32;

choice of riceandnoodledishes. the esplanade,each with exactlythesame ity of Hotel Siswa.warungs line Atnight, DaengPatompo,along JlBaso in thevicin- uddin) Competitiverates. Sudirman 65;s/dfrom163,000/200,000Rp; with fan40,000/70,000Rp) two weeks, Pelni two weeks, Kalimantan.to catch Every aship toEast The main reason to cometoPare Pare is BOAT &Away There Getting I Gandaria Hotel Sleeping &Eating postoffice Main Haji LaTunrung moneychanger major banks change money. streets runningparalleltotheharbour. The Mostof isonthestalls. whatyouneed a lively pedestrianmallwith warungsand theesplanadeturnsintofront. Atnight, The townisstretched outalongthewater- &Information Orientation andboatsto Kalimantan.Pelni services second-largest port intheregion, withmany Toraja or Mamasa andMakassar. It’salsothe Makassar, andaquiet stopover Tana between Pare Pare isasmaller,greener version of % PARE PARE plus a wide selection ofplus awideselection deliciousseafood. ster menu of andIndonesianfood, Chinese Pare Pare, andhotwater. withair-con, TV rooms are someof in themostcomfortable viewsandawell-regarded sea restaurant. The with transportitisworthforthe superb hotel isalittlewayoutof town,butforthose with fan40,000/70,000Rp) before youorderyourfish. ikan bakar (baked fish),butcheck theprice Asia,Restaurant in thiswarungspecialises 15,000-30,000Rp; spot which hasgood-value rooms. to Balikpapan andthe toBalikpapan Kerinci the 10,000-25,00Rp; daria I’s second location. daria I’ssecond Warung Sedap Asia Restaurant There are small several II, Gandaria Hotel Hotel Kenari Bukit Indah Bukit Kenari Hotel 0421 /pop114,000 Agoa Mas toNunukan inKalimantan; Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com h h (Jl Karaeng Burane)Hasinternetaccess. Karaeng (Jl ( breakfast, lunch&dinner) % lunch &dinner)

(Jl BasoDaengPatompo; meals(Jl ( (Jl BasoDaengPatompo; meals(Jl % 21093; Jl Bau Massepe 395;s/d 21093; JlBauMassepe ( ThisistheHotel Gan- Afriendly,family-run % 21017; JlAndicammi) 21093; JlSamporaja4;s/d www.lonelyplanet.com

( (Jl Sultan Hasan- (Jl % rumah makan Nextdoorto 21886; Jl Jendral 21886; JlJendral Binaiya to a Amon- ) This runs

potholes forthelast twohours. is initiallygood, but disappears into huge Palopotween (six hours) andWatampone Makassar andWatampone.Theroadbe- Pareorganised terminal toRantepao, Pare, gofromPalopo’sof and minibuses buses trip toPalopo (20,000Rp,twohours). Plenty for theverywinding minal BoluinRantepao Vehicles regularly leave fromjustoutsideTer- come here excepttocatch publictransport. nate number of becak. There isnoreason to lookatthefishingboats. closer village, andalongpierwhere youcanget a of theroyalera. On thewaterfront isa relicsposite andcontains thepolicestation, Terminal Soreang, 3kmnortheastof town. Polewali (18,000Rp,twohours) leave from town.Kijangsto a busasitfliesthrough south of thecity,butit’soften easiertohail Terminalthrough kilometres Indukseveral (25,000Rp, fourhours).travel Mostbuses (22,000Rp,threekassar hours) andRantepao and KijangsgotoTerminal Panaikang inMa- kas andplentyof buses andRantepao, sar Pare Pare Ma isonthemainroadbetween - BUS of Asia. Restaurant from agencies neartheportandjustnorth andbookingsare Details nights). available 22 hours) andNunukan(236,000Rp,two (both112,000Rp, andBalikpapan senger boatstravel Pare between Pare and on toNunukan. toTarakanSamarinda. TheAwugoes and www.lonelyplanet.com the beauty of Bali, the houses of the Bataks ofthe beauty of the houses the Bataks Bali, death withtheir elaborate ceremonies. Take all sides, theToraja prove there islife after on tural island, hemmedin by mountains Tana Toraja is quite simplyunique. A cul- TANA TORAJA BataraGuru Museum kingdom. Theformerpalaceisnow thetiny the centre of theoldandpowerfulLuwu theDutch,the Luwudistrict.Before itwas peninsula istheadministrative of capital This Islamicportontheeastcoastof the % PALOPO Palopo isasprawlingtownwithaninordi- Every decentpas- oneortwodays,several 0471 /pop93,000 (Jl AndiJemma) (Jl

, which isop- Bugis Bugis A smallplaceintown. MEDICAL SERVICES (1:85,000) map,published byPeriplus. up acopyof Tana thedetailed Toraja If you’re hiking,pick doingsomeserious MAPS Warnet Petra Post office ACCESSINTERNET &POST Information inthedryseason. year –even the andrainthroughout has coolevenings the provincial of capital Makale. Rantepao of Tana Toraja andafarbetter optionthan It isthelargest townandcommercialcentre range of accommodationandrestaurants. most of themajor sites andhasagood Tana Toraja. of Itisinstrikingdistance ploring thestunningcountrysidearound forex- isthemostpopularbase Rantepao % RANTEPAO Bank Danamon from moneychangers. The best rates of exchange are available MONEY Elim Sakit Rumah h heftier cash advances. heftier asfacilitieshere are basic. forMakassar, Toraja, make shouldbefallyouin hospital intown.Ifanything serious the elaborate ceremonies infullswing. tosee time avisitwiththefuneralseason have pretty hurtto been low,soitdoesn’t inrecentHowever, years, visitornumbers hotelin numbers pricespeak. andRantepao return homeforcelebrations,touristscome when Toraja Indonesia workingthroughout usually duringJulyandAugust(see p691 ), fascinating cultures. is Thefuneralseason itional villages, uniquearchitecture and pretty andmostlyunspoiltarea of trad- popular destinationinSulawesi.It’savast, mesmerising. Thisisaworlduntoitself. carnage summer;it’smacabre every but of wooden effigies) thedeadandbuffalo graves, hanginggraves, Sumba andyou’re Cave close. stillnoteven in Sumatraandthemegalithiccultures of Tana Toraja isundoubtedly themost 0423 /pop45,000 8am-7pm) Rantepao’s onlyinternetcentre. 8am-7pm) Rantepao’s (Jl AhmadYani; (Jl (Jl Andi Mappanyukki 46;perhr8000Rp; AndiMappanyukki (Jl (Jl Diponegoro) Hasan ATM; (Jl alsooffers TANA ••Rantepao TORAJA ( % 21258; JlAhmadYani) The main h 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) tau tau tau (life-sized 687

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI the post office. reasonable rates. Marazavalas BNI bank Telkom office hotels offer international calls fromrooms. There are wartel in townandmany several TELEPHONE Office Tourist Government TOURIST INFORMATION Another popularATM. 688 It’s justsouthofthehospital. Butthere islittlein thewayofhandouts.other activities. pendent informationabout localceremonies, festivals and staffhere canprovideaccurate,inde- 62A) Thefriendly END OFB Bittuang (10km) To Bolokan(4km); Mamasa (69km) To Bittuang(10km); TANA TORAJA Seseng TANA ••Rantepao TORAJA (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlDiponegoro) Tangratte Gunung (1316m) Sulae Gunung (1330m) Kalotok

(Jl Diponegoro)Moneychangerwith (Jl

Sungai Appangbatu Sungai

(Jl AhmadYani; (Jl Sungai Rembon Sungai Gunung (1260m) Totosik Uranallo Gunung (1856m) Mandoangin

Gunung (2560m) Gunung

(1288m) Malasoi Sangpiak Sungai

Kurra Sungai Saluputti Gunung Dumbia (1284) Baruppu Rembon

( h Tapparan Sungai %

Gunung (1115m)

i a

g n

M S

u Pulu

Labi

24hr) Next door to 24hr) Next a

21277; JlAhmadYani i Gunung (2523m)

Neosing t

i

n

Sungai

g Kandangbatu b

a END OFC START OFB, B l m Pongtiku a Pangala Airport u Limbong Gunung (2041m) Balumanuk Madong Rindingallo Gunung (2298m) Gunung (1578m) Sungai Napo Gunung Gunung (1238m) (2312m) Lepong Mariri Madandan Kepe Makale Mamullu Gunung (1378m)

Sa’dan Langda Toinduk Siguntu

Mendoe Sungai Sapan

Londongbiang

Pulio Lolai Barrabarra To Makassar Lokomata END OFA (310km) Pana Gunung (930m) Singki sible bybemo. 2km northeast of town, and easily acces- cost more than asmallcar. community arebuffalo onparade. Many market, where fromthe theleadinglights a 10,000Rpcharge toenter thelivestock out othermarkets inthearea. There is fortheexactday,orseek around Rantepao kretek (clove cigarettes) andgossip.Ask real businessof theday–endless coffee, commerce islively, tothe butincidental crowds fromall over Tana Toraja. The is avery big,socialoccasionthatdraws duced capacitydaily).Themain market sixdays(butoperatesheld every inare- main Rantepao’s Sights START OFA Tampangallo Limbongpisa Lemo Alang Alang

Londa Sungai Palau Sungai Gunung (2190m) Rantepao Batutumonga Tikala Sanggalangi Gunung (2150m) Lempo Sesean Ke'te Kesu Parinding Ba'tan Tilanga Palatokke Barana Randanbatu Buntu Berana Kambira Karasik Buntu Pune Bori Sarang-Sarang Gunung (1661m) Suaya Deri Sullukang Langsa D: Nanggala–Bokin–Paniki–Ledo–Tembamba C: Sa'dan–Sapan–PuluPulu–Baruppu–Pangala B: Pangala–Bolokan–Bittuang A: Batutumonga–Lokomata–Pangala–Baruppu– Bolu Pulu Pulu–Sapan Buntao La'bo Sangalla Tandung Pangli Pasanglambe Palawa Buntu Kalando , market To'karau Sa'dan

Sungai Marante To Makula(4km) Gunung (1397m) Lepong Ledo Trail Tracks www.lonelyplanet.com Rantepangi Tembamba (1120m) Kadinge Gunung

END OFD Kada Sungai Balusu Sungai Sungai Masia Paniki START OFC 0 0 pasar Bolu,is Buntao START OFD Pasar Gunung (1134m) Rangi Gunung Talangsura (1145m) Karua Rumonga Gunung (1156m) Gunung (1104m) Nanggala Tembamba Boluis Bokin Bokin 2 miles To Palopo 4 km (20km)

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Indosella and guides: ing trekking andculturaltours), vehicles which canarrangeRantepao, tours (includ- reliable, long-runningagenciesSeveral in including organised tours of theregion. offering arangeRantepao, of services, There are numeroustravel agencies in Tours 10,000Rp. allow nongueststoswimforafee of about most of thehotels thathave yond andare covered on p702 . However, Most of theactivitieslieinhillsbe- Activities www.lonelyplanet.com Mappanyukki 111) Mappanyukki Siguntu (7km) Singki (500m); To Gunung Sungai To Tikala(3km); 4 1 3 2 Pangala (35km) Jl Kartika Jl Ten RANTEPAO ὈὈ ὈὈ

23 gko

25 15 Tikala Jl Pantekesu Jl Jl Sam Ratulangi Situru Sports

Field (

Jl Merdeka Jl

% Jl Mangadi Jl 19 Jl W Monginsidi AC 22 14

25210; www.sellatours.com; JlAndi 4 Jl Landorundun Jl Wae Rumbung (2km); TorajaTorsinaHotel(3km); Tandung Jl Rantepao Lodge (3km);HeritageToraja(4km); Marannu Hotel(5km); Hotel Sangalla(9km); 16 Pia's PoppiesHotel (1km);HotelPison 8 30 Jl Pembangunan 13 Jl Ahmad Yani Square Town

Airport (18km); Makale (18km)

7 Jl Taman Bahagia Taman Jl Mosque 9

Jl Emi Saelan Emi Jl 31 To JETTouristService;

Sungai Sa’dan Jl Niaga Jl 29 6

34 Jl Pertanian Jl 17

3 Jl Budi Utomo Budi Jl 24 Jl Tappang

33 Jl Suloara Jl swimming pools 27 5 Jl Andi Mappanyukki To TerminalBolu(2km);Pasar 10 2 Bolu (2km);Pangli(7km); 28

26 Jl Olah Raga Olah Jl

B Jl Sawerigading Jl 11 Sa'dan (12km) Jl Pacuan Kuda 1 32 21

12 Jl Abdul Gani Abdul Jl Warnet Petra...... Telkom...... Rumah SakitElim...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Marazavalas Moneychanger...... Government TouristOffice...... BRI Bank...... BNI Bank...... Bank Danamon...... Pondok Wisata...... Hotel IndraToraja II...... Hotel IndraToraja I...... Homestay Rainbow Pelangi...... Duta 88Cottages...... Indosella...... (see 26) Wartel...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Toraja PermaiTravelAgency..(see 27)

Jl Diponegoro Jl Taruna

Jl Pontingku 31) Jl Pontingku yourself. offer acommission;it doesn’t check for because ahotelsometimes say isclosed area fan,asthenights cool.Guideswill but theydon’toffer air-conditioning or places includebreakfast intheirprices, accept guests.Mostbudget andmidrange August), whensomeprivate homes also (June– inthetouristseason usually rise butpricestels homestays, andcomfortable hasawiderange ofRantepao cheap ho- Sleeping Toraja Permai Service Tourist JET panyukki 10) panyukki Jl Beringin Jl 20 18 ( % TANA ••Rantepao TORAJA 0 0 11 10 16 15 14 13 12 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ( 21785; fax21236;JlAndiMap- B3 A3 A4 A3 B4 B3 A4 B3 B3 B3 A3 A3 A3 A3 B2 B2 % 21145; fax23227; Kijang to Makale...... (see 24) Cancer Karaoke...... Toko AbadiSupermarket...... Riman Restoran...... Restoran Mambo...... Rachmat Restoran...... Mart's Café...... Wisma TengkoSituru'...... Wisma Tanabua...... Wisma Monton...... Wisma MariaI...... Wisma Irama...... Wisma Imanuel...... Bus Company Offices...... Bus Company Offices...... Bemos toSa'dan &Tikala..... Bemos toMadandan...... Bemos toLa'bo...... Todi...... (see 29) Souvenir Shops...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING Toraja GardenCottages(3km); To TerminalBolu(1.5km); Toraja PrinceHotel(3km); Pasar Bolu(1.5km);Hotel Marante Toraja(3km); D Palopo (30km) 300 m 0.2 miles 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17

689

B2 B3 B2 A3 B3 A3 A1 B3 C2 A3 C2 B2 B3 B2 B1 A4 A3 B3 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 50,000/75,000Rp) stairs s/d 30,000/40,000Rp, upstairs withhotwater Wisma Tengko Situru’ BUDGET Situru’ 5;r30,000Rp) 690 a spacious bathroom. Thecheaper rooms larger rooms here have king-size bedsand and mandi. deal foralarge roomwithattachedtoilet in aquietpartof town,butit’s abargain onstilts.Itis in aramblingwooden house during thelong,quietlow-season. are welcome,andrates are pretty negotiable with theirowntransport,butindividuals cater almostexclusively fortour groups toMakalefrom Rantepao orPalopo. They midrange hotels are located alongtheroads points formidrange places.Plentyof these Wisma Irama Location andviewsare often theselling of aboat.The more buffalohornsvisible,thehigherhousehold’s status. believe theroofrepresents thehornsofabuffalo;otherssuggestitrepresents thebowandstern ditional houses).Itisthemeetingplaceforfamilygatherings,andmaynot be boughtorsold. aboutTanaOne ofthemostnoticeableaspects Torajaisthesize andgrandeurof Traditional Houses approval. ofyouwillbeyourreligion,of thefirstquestionsasked andProtestants are given immediate than US$8000. land couldbeboughtwithbuffaloes. Sought-after albinobuffaloscanchangehandsformore religious ceremonies. The buffalohastraditionallybeenasymbolofwealthandpower–even mountains bythearrivalofothergroups. Sungai Sa’dan(Sa’danRiver) region anddwelledintheEnrekang before beingpushed intothe beliefs, buttheceremonies oflife. are stillavitalpart as thespecialgodoftheirfamily,clanortribe. ChristianityunderminedsometraditionalTorajan Prior tothearrivalofChristianity,Torajabelieved inmanygods,butworshippedPuang Matua Beliefs Torajan ceremonies (withtheexceptionoffuneralcelebrations)were disappearing. control. The missionariesmoved in ontheheelsoftroops,andbyWWIImanygreat southwest, butin1905theDutchbeganabloodycampaigntobringCentral Sulawesiundertheir ‘bumpkin’. derived fromtheBugis word Inhabiting thevast,ruggedlandscapeofSouthSulawesihighlandsare the Toraja, aname THE TORAJA TANA ••Rantepao TORAJA The ofa aspect towering roof,rearing upateitherend,isthemoststriking Despite thestrength oftraditionalbeliefs, Christianity inTorajaisavery active force. One Buffaloes are invarious astatussymbolfortheToraja,andare ofparamountimportance Torajan mythologysuggeststhattheirancestorscamebyboatfromthe south, sailedup Torajan life andculture theconstantthreat forcenturieshadsurvived fromtheBugis fromthe Close to theMonton,the Close ( Alltheroomshere are set % 21371; Jl Abdul Gani 16;down- 21371; JlAbdul Gani ( % 23985; fax21855;JlTengko toriaja thathadnegative connotationssimilarto‘hillbilly’or sometimes, hotwater. friendly andpricesincludebreakfast and, areare onthesmallside. slightly Thestaff fine views. hasarooftopThe toplevel restaurant with remain infineshape,andincludehotwater. whenwevisited,Almost deserted therooms is oneof thebiggest of thebudget places. down asidelane,thissmartestablishment Literally opposite Pia’s, thePison has 32 lush garden andthere isasmall barhere. iums. The friendlyowners lookafter their cluding creative bathrooms andsomeaquar- plenty of individualtouches onshow, in- popular foritscharming rooms.There are the countryside,Pia’s Poppiesisdeservedly Located about1kmsouth of town,almost in 14A; ground-/top-flr50,000/100,000Rp) Wisma Monton Pia’s PoppiesHotel Hotel Pison Hotel Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com

( % ( % /fax 21344; s/d50,000/60,000Rp) ( % 21675; fax 21665; Jl Abdul Gani 21675; fax21665;JlAbdulGani 21121; s/d50,000/60,000Rp) www.lonelyplanet.com tongkonan. Some tongkonan (tra- Hiddenaway

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com 80,000Rp) and street actionbeyond. nies out front offer views over thegarden and includehot-water showers. Bigbalco- the river, the roomshere are agenerous size 45,000/70,000Rp, withhotwater95,000/110,000Rp) 80,000Rp) www.lonelyplanet.com showing theirage more thanothers. rooms comewithhotwater, butsomeare mini-balcony views.Allthe withmountain rooms, each withacleanbathroomand barred. testing get thestone theory,asyoumight from thepopular Mart’s Don’ttry Café. include breakfast andit’sastone’sthrow large rates garden.It’safriendly set-up, well-tended roomshere are arounda set style (inthe style of atraditional Torajan Duta 88Cottages Wisma Maria I Wisma Maria Wisma Imanuel been stolen that the Toraja now keep themintheirhomes.been stolenthattheTorajanowkeep elsewhere, butit’sbecomingincreasingly difficult toseetheminTana Toraja. Somanyhave ting onbalconiesintherockfacefrontofcaves are hide theirdeadincaves. totheir graves.ally gowell-equipped Sincethisledtograve to plundering,theTorajastarted The Torajabelieve possessionswithyouintheafterlife, thatyoucantake andthe dead gener- Graves &Tau Tau tance ofanimalsacrifices. believe thatthesoulsofanimalsshouldfollowtheirmasters life, tothenext hencethe impor- of thedeceasedwhenyouwishtoleave… asyouwouldalivinghost. the deceasedisanhonour. Ifyouaccept,remember tothankthedeceasedandaskpermission July toSeptember. funeral after preparations have beenmade. This isusuallyscheduledduringthedrymonthsof toitsfamily.proper funeralrites thesoulofdeceasedwillcausemisfortune isthe allTorajanceremonies,Of themostimportant Funerals guides: In thesouvenir inRantepao there shopsandsupermarkets are afew decentlocallyproduced Books Stanislaus Sandarupaisreadable andinformative. Tangdilintin andMSyafei iswritten intheiruniquestyle. dances, ceremonies and somelocalwalks. carvers atworkLonda.You canseetaucarvers There are many tau atLemo andafew These caves were hollowedoutbyspecialistcave builders. Coffinsgodeepinsidethecaves, andsit- Visitors attending afuneralshouldwearblackordark-coloured clothing. The secondfuneralcanbespread over several daysandinvolve hundreds ofguests. Torajans Before thesecondfuneral,deceasedremains inthefamilyhouse. Aninvitationtovisit The Torajagenerallyhave twofunerals,oneimmediately after deathandanelaborate second Allthe cottages here are Set inalarge overlooking Set house A GuidetoToraja ( % ( % ( % 21165; Jl Sam Ratulangi 23;s/d 21165; JlSamRatulangi

21416; JlWMonginsidi 16;r 23477; Jl Sawerigading 12;r 23477; JlSawerigading byAT MarampaisavailableinEnglish,GermanandFrench, andlists tongkonan- The Toraja –AnIntroductiontoaUniqueCulture byLT Pondok Wisata which is great withtransport, but forthose the buffalo-infested valleys,throughout Many of the midrange places are strewn MIDRANGE Wisma Tanabua views tothemountains beyond. cleanroomswithbathroomandgood 60,000Rp) Smart, with attachedbathroom. basicrooms unan 11A;r70,000Rp)Amiableplaceoffering salon. centralspotthatdoublesasabeauty 50,000Rp) Afriendly, Homestay Rainbow Pelangi Homestay Rainbow options: son, there are otherrecommended several includebreakfast.Rates as allcomewithhotwater andsatellite TV. The roomsare atmosphericandgoodvalue, aroundaverdant set littlegarden. house), tomate (funeral;literally ‘deceased’).Without If timesare busyduringthesummersea- tau –woodeneffigies ofthedead. Life andDeathoftheToraja People ( TANA ••Rantepao TORAJA ( % % 21595; JlPembangunan 23;r 21072; JlDiponegoro43; rfrom ( % 21753; JlPembang- by

691 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 116; rfrom150,000Rp; 180,000Rp; US$85 istheoptimistic walk-inprice. Check therates before you commit,as nate andthebathrooms are spotlessly clean. andwoodfurnishings predomi-Bamboo are inTorajan allset cated ontheroadtoMakale, theroomshere 692 pool isrefreshing. bare days,butthelarge these swimming Makale, theroomshere are alittlethread- 250,000Rp; bad andfeatures asinger mostnights. ing garden.Theriverside restaurant isnot andallare aroundabloom- set satellite TV, option. Deluxe roomsincludebathtubsand both, butmostguestsprefer theriverside posite each other. Theroomsare similarin theIndrahas twoannexes op- Rantepao, only midrange optioninthecentre of given theswimmingpool. andworththerupiah clean andcomfortable turn-off toKe’te Kesu, theroomshere are or take abecak. To getplaces,eitherhopinabemo tothese without. forthose not sostraightforward are available. like US$70 and up,socheck that discounts swimming pool.Published rates are more smart three-star trim andthere isasmall range option onoffer. Allrooms feature a the Princeisarguably thebest-value mid- metres fromtownon theroadtoPalopo, dorundun 63;standard/deluxe 180,000/216,000Rp) a sad statementonthetourismslump. a sad Next dooristheabandonedToraja Cottages, andhotwater are available.and bothTV includes averanda withcountryside views are very goodvalue. design Thethoughtful Toraja woodencottages Prince Hotel, these tages inclbreakfast 100,000Rp) hotel.com; s/d300,000/360,000Rp; a swimmingpoolhere. are pretty basicforthemoney.There isalso fridge andhotwater. rooms Thestandard nies withanaspectover thericefields,TV, are thedrawhere. Theyhave private balco- the Toraja Torsina Hotel, thedeluxe rooms Hotel Toraja Prince Toraja TorsinaHotel Hotel Sangalla Hotel Rantepao Lodge Rantepao Toraja Garden Cottages Toraja Garden Hotel Marannu Hotel IndraToraja Hotel TANA ••Rantepao TORAJA s s ) ) Set in the rice fields near the inthericefieldsnear Set Asprawlingcompoundnear ( s

( % % ( %

) ( /fax 24485;r250,000Rp) Located ontheroadto % ( 22221; fax 22028; Jl Pongtiku 22221; fax22028;JlPongtiku % 23717; fax21248;r150,000- Almostopposite the ( ( 21163; fax21547;JlLan- % % tongkonan houses. 21430; www.torajaprince s 23336; fax25397;cot- 21293; s/d120,000/ ) , Afew kilo- The Lo- .com; deluxe rUS$60,cottagesUS$78; 25,000Rp) door to the Indosella office. door totheIndosella water rafters next asitisright totradetales, favourites. Thisisa good placeforwhite- a goodmixof localdelicacies andAsian look theswimmingpool. building. Allare well-kitted outandover- are smallerthanroomsinthemain slightly The cottages have smarter bathrooms,but huge hotel, thistimeontheroadtoPalopo. about 3kmfromtowntowardsKe’te Kesu. mospheric place,butalltoooften empty.It’s minibar andsafety depositbox. It’sanat- like pool.Facilities includesatellite TV, inalushgardenwith lagoon- style houses rooms are inhuge set Torajan as aNovotel duringtheboomyears. Most Toraja, this strikingpropertywasfirst built r fromUS$85; of theirservices. localguidestryingtosell butbepreparedplace foraBintang, foralot crackers. It’sacheap andsometimes lively guacamole isavailable here, withprawn ites and somesimpleWestern fare. Good of Torajan specialities,Indonesianfavour- 20,000Rp) Ratulangi. are neartheHotel IndraToraja onJlSam are allopenforbreakfast, lunch anddinner. parts of Tana Toraja. Thefollowingplaces average visitorisdog,which iseaten in some while having popularwith the lunch. Less ittakes timetocook–orderdinner because a restaurant, hours inadvance orderseveral andcoconut).Ifyouwanttotryitin etables intobamboo tubesalongwithveg-stuffed food. Thebest-knowndishis fers agreat Torajan opportunitytosample Going toceremonies orlocalrestaurants of- Eating Hotel TOP END jan, Indonesian, Chinese and Western fare.jan, Indonesian, Chinese when itcomes tothemenu, includingTora- this little canteenpunches above its weight from 15,000Rp) Mambo Restoran Heritage Toraja Heritage Riman Restoran Riman Café Mart’s Two of thelongest-running restaurants Marante Toraja Marante Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Justuptheroad fromMart’s Café, Thislittlerestaurant hasagoodmix s Thiscentrallylocated eatery has ) Theswankiesthotel inTana (Jl Sam Ratulangi 44;dishes15,000- SamRatulangi (Jl (

% (Jl Andi Mappanyukki 113;mains AndiMappanyukki (Jl (Jl Sam Ratulangi; dishes around SamRatulangi; (Jl ( % 21192; www.torajaheritage.com; 21192; www.torajaheritage.com; (Continued on page 701) 21616; www.marantetoraja www.lonelyplanet.com (meat pa’piong (meat s tongkonan- ) Another and Asian greatest hits. impressive of selection Indonesian,Chinese quiet therest of thetime. Themenuhasan That meansit’sbusyforafew months and cold, asittraditionallycaters totourgroups. veg, make forthemarket. supermarket forfruitand intown,although this isthebest-stockedand self-caterers, (Continued from page 692) page from (Continued www.lonelyplanet.com orations on traditional houses. The carvers Thecarvers orations ontraditional houses. like thedec- trays, panelsand clocks, carved include wooden figurines. Woodcarvings betelsalt, nuts),huge horn necklacesand as Mamasan boxes tostore (used magic, are noted forparticular specialities, such main craftsof Tana Toraja –some villages weaving andbasketry areWoodcarving, the Shopping fully named double upaslocalpick-upjoints. The woe- tions are somepretty dire karaoke bars that Errr…what entertainment?The only op- Entertainment to Makale. still wantmore, there are plenty ontheroad of placescanbe,butifyou howbadthese isagoodexample near RimanRestaurant, for Ke’te Kesu. available. opposite Itisright the turn-off andcoldbeerssomething foreveryone are visiting Indonesians.Themenuincludes rice fields,thisrestaurant ispopularwith inawoodenpavilion overlookingSet the 20,000Rp) Wae Rumbung Toko Abadi Restoran Rachmat tasting. an excellentantidote toanightof bitter). by addingbark)andflavours(sweetto colours (fromcleartodarkred, achieved town andcomesinavarietyofstrengths, toddy). balok (palmwine,alsoknownastuakand devotedsections tothesaleofalcoholic have markets wholeRantepao andMakale NEVER MINDTHEBALOKS Coffee isToraja’sotherfamousbrew, Thishuge restaurant blowshotand Balok issoldinhugejugsaround Karaoke Cancer (Jl AndiMappanyukki) (Jl (Jl Pongtiku; mainsaround25,000Rp) Pongtiku; (Jl (Jl Ahmad Yani;(Jl mainsaround

(Jl AndiMappanyukki) (Jl Fortrekkers balok- ,

optimistic sign says nobargaining.optimistic signsays fine piecesavailable. Pricesare andan high showroom isupstairs andthere are some ing) galleryinTana Toraja. Thestunning dyeing theindividualthreads before weav- (cloth inwhich thepattern isproducedby of comfort andspace. Various companies and thelevel prices varyaccording tospeed hours),ofteneight buses and runatnight, kang in Makassar (45,000 to75,000Rp, (25,000Rp, five hours). ToTerminal Panai- Even more headsouth toPare buses Pare hours) andPalu (135,000Rp,20hours). (90,000Rp, 12hours), Poso(110,000Rp,13 to Pendolo hours), (70,000Rp,eight Tentena to booktheticket adayorsoinadvance. andAlamIndah.Try Litha, Batutumonga pricestomatch) higher are(with slightly Mappanyukki. buses Themost comfortable company officesalong,orjustoff, JlAndi leave buses Most long-distance frombus BUS &BEMO mai Tickets canbebooked through locals considerthisanunreliable service. mostturning around11.40am.However, on TuesdayandFridayfor250,000Rp, re- carrier, DAS,fliesfromMakassar at10.30am chitecture of traditionalvillages. Theonly a dramaticlookatthelandscape andar- Flying –especiallyintoTana Toraja –provides AIR &Away There Getting around town. betel nutstofunerals. ment of themforcarrying localswhouse popular withtourists,much totheamuse- Black-and-red velvet drawstringbagsare necklaces are theauthenticTorajan wear. festoon thegiftshops, buttheorange-bead chunky silver, andamberorwoodenbeads Valley.masa Necklacesmadeof seeds, Sa’dan); andthelonger cloths of theMa- roofs; Toraja weaving (especiallygoodin withexaggeratedjan houses overhanging ing intown,includeminireplicas of Tora- shops, especiallyaroundthemarket build- Artefactsfrom thetat. soldinsouvenir the qualityof theirwork. at Ke’te Kesu andLondaare renowned for There are plentyof headingnorth buses Todi thequality The hardpartisseparating ( % (Jl Andi Mappanyukki 25) Andi Mappanyukki (Jl 21785; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 10) 21785; JlAndiMappanyukki TANA ••Rantepao TORAJA Theleadingikat orathotels Toraja Per-

701 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI that serves the usualIndonesian fare, as that serves restaurant in townis asmall, friendly place 20,000Rp; Makale’s Sights of Tana Toraja bybemo. market. Makale iswellconnected tomost churches sittingatopeach hillandabusy hills. Thetownalsoboastswhitewashed artificial lake amidcloud-shrouded andset Rantepao. It’s a smalltownbuiltaroundan Toraja, buthasvery few of theamenitiesof Makale istheadministrative of capital Tana % MAKALE in town. shouldcostaround4000Rp around. Becak orcharteryour flight abemoorKijang. the Toraja Permai officewhenyoureconfirm Totheairport,teeuptransportwith between. Makale, andwilldropyouoffanywhere in via per person), toRantepao, which goes hicle isavailable –usuallyaKijang (20,000Rp intowhatever ve-From theairport,squeeze Around Getting and Terminal Rantepao tween Bolu. in Tana Toraja. Plentyof bemostravel be- andotherplaces Rantepao port between Toraja ( right ) formore abouttrans- details AroundTana(4000Rp, 20minutes). See Kijangs leave minute every toMakale Palopo. Restoran, FromoutsideRachmat thereRantepao, are regular vehicles to p707. see Toraja and Mamasa leaves fromMakale, asa. Theonlydirect Tana busbetween from where there are connectionstoMam- toMamuju viaPolewali, also have services 702 hotels budget. tosuit every of which hasagoodselection in Rantepao, In allhonesty,itis farmore tostay sensible Sleeping &Eating is reserved just for is reserved and driedfish, andacorner of themarket inspection, buckets of live pilesof eels, fresh down withbamboostripsforbuyers’ close pigs strapped sixdays,you’llsee every and colour. Onthemainmarket day,held Rantepao issmallandeasytowalkRantepao From Terminal Bolu,2kmnorthof Rumah Makan Idaman Makan Rumah 0423 TANA ••Makale TORAJA h market breakfast, lunch& dinner) (Jl Pasar Baru) (Jl balok sales. (Jl Merdeka; meals5000- Merdeka; (Jl isablurof noise Theonly real Makale’s bakedwell astasty fish.Itisnextdoorto licensed guides). The best way to choose a guides). The bestway tochoose licensed guides withno certificate (and incompetent guage. there Nevertheless, are competent etiquette, and beingfluentin the locallan- acourseinculture,taking language and ment-approved by under- licence,obtained In thisregion, manyguides holdagovern- GUIDES only waytoreach theremote villages. joints get Walkingisoften rattled loose. the boulders –vehicles don’t get stuck,butyour Toraja are constructed outof compacted paved, butmanyotherroads aroundTana tutumonga, Madandan andBittuang,are towns, such asMakale, Palopo, Sa’dan,Ba- anything ispossible. Theroadstomajor driver-cum-guide or,bestof all,walking– mountain-bike rental, vehicle rental with a transport, organised tours, motorbike or invillagesnight or campingout.Public but longer tripsare over- possible,staying be reached ondaytripsfromRantepao, or rideawayfromRantepao. of Tana Toraja anditliesjustashortwalk ourful ceremonies –thisisthewildworld hanging graves, soaring graves,cipitous cliff other-worldly Stunning scenery,cascadingricefields,pre- AROUND TANA TORAJA fromMakale.gional publictransportdetails (80,000Rp,10hours).week timesa iswithDiscoIndahseveral masa Tanaconnection between Toraja andMa- (see Rantepao p701 ). Theonlydirect bus sengers inMakale forany destinationfrom Makale. willpickuppre-booked Buses pas- ner of JlMerdeka andJlIhwanRombein alsohavein Rantepao officesnearthecor- down. Mostof thebuscompaniesbased (4000Rp, 20minutes) –justflag one andMakale Rantepao jangs racebetween Tana Toraja. See p701 to for information aboutflights &Away There Getting , seasonal fruitand pa’piong, seasonal atwarung,suchlocal dishesforsale as Most of can theplacesinthissection AroundTanaSee Toraja ( below ) forre- Every minute fromdawntodusk,Ki- When themarket’s pumping,you’llfind mesjid (mosque). www.lonelyplanet.com tongkonan andcol- kueh (cakes). tau tau, tau

www.sellatours.com; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 111,Rantepao) www.sellatours.com; JlAndiMappanyukki Three days;tough andmountainous. tours of theregion, see p689 . of offering agencies organised inRantepao around villages alongtheway.Foralist from hotels;agencies orask inRantepao; restaurants); fromthetouristofficeand nitely beapproached inthestreet andin can behired (you’lldefi- aroundRantepao andunofficialguidesportersOfficial haps 350,000Rpforanewerair-con vehicle. A carshouldcost300,000Rpperday,per- their transport,foodandaccommodation. guides costsfrom200,000Rpperday–plus licensed ally sensitive go-between. Official and workingasaninformative andcultur- visits toremote andtraditionalvillages, ofmain purposes guidesare facilitating go toowrongtravelling withoutone. The going toofaroffthebeaten track,youwon’t Indonesiaandare ofphrases not Bahasa recommendations), knowafew relevant direction, adecentmap(see p687 formap mon language, butifyouhave of asense before committing. atrip through guide istositdownandtalk www.lonelyplanet.com check out theTana Toraja map( p688 ). of trekkingFor an overview these routes, Sa’dan–Sapan–Pulu Pulu–Baruppu–Pangala Pangala–Bolokan–Bittuang Bittuang–Mamasa company, contact bringgiftsorpayyourway. hospitality, to rain.Ifyoutake advantage of Torajan it’smorein thedryseason, likely thannot caves; andanumbrella orraincoat–even lages withoutelectricityorwanttoexplore invil- stay youwalkatnight, incase light) water bottleandfood;astrongtorch (flash- and people. Alwaystake goodfootwear;a and toreally get afeel forthecountryside This isthebestwaytoreach isolated areas Trekking ACTIVITIES Pulu Pulu–Sapan Batutumonga–Lokomata–Pangala–Baruppu– following: few of thepopularlonger treks includethe later inthischapter,vidual sections buta Shorter hikes are mentionedintheindi- trail. Guides are ifyouhave useful a com- If youprefer aprofessional trekking Three days. Three days;see p708 .

Indosella Two days; a well-marked Twodays;awell-marked ( % 0423-25210;

. Mappanyukki 111,Rantepao) Mappanyukki La’bo Bittuang and Makale: the followingdestinationsfromRantepao Sa’dan andTikala. Madandan, headingtoLa’bo, Rantepao ( p689 ) forwhere tocatch bemosincentral map theRantepao around theterminal. See are poorlysignedsoyoumayhave toask Kijangs toallmainvillages, butthevehicles thereof Rantepao; are regular bemosand andmuddy Terminalthe scruffy Bolueast andMakale,tral Rantepao aswellfrom too rocky. some walkingtrails,butthetrails are often experienced bikers. Bikes along can beused and narrow,sotheyare more for suitable Makale are good,butoften windy,steep andmember thatroadsoutof Rantepao hotelsable through andsomeagencies. Re- Motorbikes bikes andmountain are avail- AROUND GETTING enter yournameinthevisitorbook. track youdownintheendandaskto is nooneabout, butsomeonewillusually of andLonda.case Sometimesthere Lemo with theoddsouvenir 10inthe stall…or ally aticket boothateach place,complete have anentryfee of 10,000Rp.There isusu- Most of thetouristsites aroundTana Toraja ENTRANCE FEES Indosella an overnight inlocalrest stay huts.Contact for twodaysonClassIIItoIVrapids,with for onedayonClassIItoIIIrapids,or€155 ment, guide,insuranceandfood,cost€50 hotel (anywhere inTana Toraja), equip- ing trips,includingtransportto/fromyour that are ClassIV(read pretty wild).Raft- Sungai Sa’danhas20rapids,includingafew Rafting ramic views of Rantepao andthe Sa’danramic viewsof Rantepao withpano- the slopes of Gunung Sesean, occupies adramaticridgeBatutumonga on Batutumonga Sangalla Sa’dan Pangala Lempo Some of the more useful services headto Some of themore services useful Local publictransportleaves fromcen- TANA ••AroundTana TORAJA Toraja Via Ke’te Kesu. ViaKe’te UsuallyviaTikala. Useful for hiking uptoBatutumonga. Usefulforhiking ViaBatutumonga. OnlyleavesfromMakale. For treks to Mamasa, onlyleaves fromMakale. Fortreks toMamasa, ( % 0423-25210; www.sellatours.com; JlAndi formore details.

703 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI person 60,000Rp) r withviews170,000Rp) 704 the finest scenery inTana Toraja. downhill walk (five hours) some of through back to Rantepao. This isavery pleasant roadandcatch abemo the Rantepao–Sa’dan to there, regular bemosreturn toRantepao. and,from pools. Thepath ends atTikala andchildrenbuffalo splashinghappilyin pounding rice,men scrubbingtheirbeloved villages withtowering baby graves tiny innearbytrees. Youcansee with itsancienthanginggraves, andsome well-marked traildowntheslopesto and take the scenery.Backtrack standing graves hewnintoa rockyoutcrop,andout- takes youtoLokomata,avillage withcave ascenicwalkwestFrom Batutumonga, ofRantepao North monga ispleasant. of toBatutu- luckthewalkfromLempo but ifyou’re toBatutumonga, through out 2km (uphill);sometimesthebemo goes from Terminal andwalk BoluinRantepao, Simply take a bemo(8000Rp)toLempo THERE&AWAYGETTING Batutumonga. through The first twoplacesare ontheonlyroad SLEEPING &EATING for somehikingandalocallunch. here, sible tostay ordaytripfromRantepao viaDeri,itispos- 20km northof Rantepao Valley, Located about andstunningsunrises. the setting issuperb. the setting mattress onthefloorina great views.Theaccommodationisjusta sible, butcolddrinksare easiertoarrange. mealsarethe cascadingricefields.Basic pos- on ahairpinbendwithinfinite views over this littlecaféhasakillerlocation,perched cated afew kilometres eastof Batutumonga, meals, including a 30,000Rp set dinner.meals, includinga30,000Rpset Try halvingthem!Therestaurant hasbasic Prices are forsuch absurdly high abasicplace. konan, aswelllarge roomswithbathroom. pad dormswithmattress intraditional across thevalleybelow,thisplacehascrash- Alternatively, backtrack through Lempo Alternatively, Lempo backtrack through Mentirotiku Coffee ShopTinimbayo Mama Rina’s Homestay Rina’s Mama , thesite of rockgraves,Deri walk down to TANA ••AroundTana TORAJA Toraja This simple family affair has Thissimplefamilyaffair ( % 081 1422260; r per person 60,000Rp, 081 1422260;rperperson60,000Rp, With commanding views Withcommandingviews

(r inclbreakfast &dinnerper tongkonan, women (Bintang 20,000Rp) tongkonan, but tong- Pana, Lo- nearby by bemo)isnoted foritsfinedancers, asis of Indonesia. you’re inexperiencedorspeaknoBahasa takes five hours. Aguideisagood ideaif tutumonga. Thereturn triptothesummit summit isaccessibleviaatrailfromBa- one of themostpopularfortrekking. The peakonSulawesi,butis notthehighest the village. simple looms,butnotallisproduced in their woven cloth.It’sallhandmadeon where upamarket localwomenset tosell bemo fromTerminal Bolu for5000Rp), takeSa’dan (12kmnorthof a Rantepao; directions alongtheway. todowithoutaguide–justaskfor enough orontoTikala. to Rantepao Thewalkiseasy and ricebarns.Fromhere youcanwalk back south of Bori, and sometoweringmegaliths. About 1km of animpressive tau ricefieldsto ing through can walksouthwest,fordingariver andwalk- you andricebarns.Inthedryseason houses popular thanKe’te Kesu, andhas issimilarlyattractiveBatutumonga, butless local trekking. offer goodadviceabout Staff plantation. spacious restaurant overlooking acoffee rooms,anda gant placewithcomfortable main accommodation,isasurprisinglyele- head to Londa, back to Rantepao, orremainhead toLonda, backto Rantepao, where acovered the river, bridge crosses tional village of Stopon thewayat tradi- also pleasant. Rantepao–Makale road atAlang is superb viewsof thevalleysand Rantepao. which offers(7km fromRantepao), more countryside. Returnto theroadto andthesurrounding views acrossRantepao trail tothesummit, which haspanoramic hill. There’s aslippery, overgrown hiking Rantepao, About 2kmwestacross the river from West ofRantepao Losmen Sando village thesleepy GunungSesean, Beyond Further northistheweaving centre of The traditional village of Palawa, eastof The walk(3km) fromSiguntutothe At 2150mabove level, sea (35km from Rantepao; 17,000Rp Pangala (35kmfromRantepao; , the site , thesite graves andhouse and thentoBori Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Baruppu. (930m) is a steep (930m)isasteep Gunung Singki has Parinding (r perperson70,000Rp) . FromAlang Alang, Mendoe rante (ceremonial ground) www.lonelyplanet.com Pangli, withits houses tongkonan houses Gunung Sesean Gunung Sesean , Pangala’s tongkonan Siguntu tau tau

or heaped in piles.Other coffins hold the rotted away, with thebones eitherscattered cave isacollectionof coffins,many of them guarded by abalconyof face.sive Theentrance tothecave cliff is extensive burial cave of atthebase amas- and Makale. are more graves, andontoSangalla,Suaya , where there trails toLa’boand Randanbatu it worthwhile. From Palatokke, there are caves but thescenerymakes isdifficult, graves andhanginggraves. Accesstothe cave several face containing enormous cliff therepaddies andtraditionalhouses, isan . Inthisbeautifularea ofPalatokke lushrice of large, , rough-hewn and onto , which hasa kang lie rottinginstrategic piles. overhang. Others, full of bonesand skulls, are suspendedonwoodenbeamsunder an very oldhanginggraves. Therottingcoffins hind thevillage are somecave graves and tau tau One of inthevillage thehouses hasseveral and offers somegreat photoopportunities. its traditionaltongkonan forvisitors thanksto preserved has been Thevillage renowned foritswoodcarving. (5kmfromRantepao), Kesu Pune isKe’te of BuntuPune. Toraja, and buriedatthehilltonorth he died.Hisbodywasreturned toTana quently exiledtoAmbon(Maluku), where district, butplannedtorebel andwassubse- rule, hewasappointed headof thelocal ning of the20thcentury.DuringDutch man namedPongMarambaq atthebegin- one of wasbuiltbyanoble- thetwohouses and sixricebarns.Accordingtolocallegend, Pune, where there are two ceremony, butsomeare nowinhabited. erected someyears agoforasinglefuneral of megaliths. mayhave Thehouses been arrangedstyle houses aroundacluster road toMakale, is justoffthe On theoutskirtsof Rantepao, South ofRantepao . Madandan tinue walkingtothevillages of Langdaand on thewestern sideof theriver andcon- www.lonelyplanet.com (6km south of Rantepao) isaveryLonda (6kmsouthof Rantepao) From Ke’te Kesu you canwalkto About 1kmfurtheralongfromBuntu Just offtheroadtoKe’te Kesu is on display. On the cliff facebe- ondisplay.Onthecliff rante , withtraditional- Karasik

marked byanumber tau tau tau houses tongkonan houses andricebarns . Insidethe Buntu Sullu- the site, fromwhere it’sa15-minute walkto will dropyouoffat theturn-offtoburial the bestphotos.A Rantepao–Makale bemo It’sagoodidea togobeforeevent. 9amfor outstretched armslike spectators atasports figures withwhite eyesand blackpupilsand Thebiggest balcony hasadozen developed. art of cuttinggrave caves had notyetbeen the wasburiedelsewhere because himself it.Thechiefhis descendantscoulduse waspartofmountain hisproperty,only which thegraves the are nowcut.Because ontopofinto and builthishouse thecliff rounding districthundreds of years ago a Toraja chief whoreigned over thesur- legend, graves these are fordescendantsof balconies for of rockfacehasawholeseries The sheer best-known burialarea inTana Toraja. hello.say cometo ifsomefriendlyeels be surprised pool. Youcanswiminthepool,butdon’t pao), alovely, naturalcool-water swimming Makale road,is the morningforbestphotos. turn-off, about2kmfromthecave. Visitin andMakaleRantepao willdropyouatthe Abemobetween mous foritswoodcarvers. lactites andstalagmites.Londaisalso fa- two maincaves, pastsomeinteresting sta- thetunnelconnecting through squeeze fromclaustrophobia, thin, anddon’tsuffer Ifyou’recations forthebenefitof sightseers. and skullshave placedinstrategic been lo- with alamp.Insidethecaves, thecoffins strong torch, youreally aguide doneed (about 20,000Rp).Unlessyou’ve gota caves withoillampstoguideyouaround and forcedtomove into thehighlands. were pushedoutof theEnrekang region Tangdilinoq, chief of theToraja whenthey in theLondacaves are thedescendantsof thatthepeopleburied A localmythsays also beburiedtogether inafamilygrave. lived together should inonefamilyhouse old Toraja customthatallpeoplewhohave bones of familymembers –it’san several of toPalopo. theroad Near Marante there isafine traditional village, just north Marante East ofRantepao (10km south of Rantepao) istheLemo (10kmsouthof Rantepao) Further south,2km(east)offtheRantepao– Kids hangaroundoutsidetheLonda tau tau tau TANA ••AroundTana TORAJA Toraja . tau tau Tilanga (10kmfromRante- . Accordingtolocal

705 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 125,000Rp; Indah Sangalla hasthesimple East ofMakale for itsfinescenery. bamba, which hasmore graves and isnoted Rantepao. About is 2kmfromBuntao Alternatively, catch abemofromPaniki to graveswhich hassomehouse and andBuntao(15kmfromRantepao), Ledo ing away.FromPaniki walk(twohours) to way are machines coffee-plantation grind- nexttothericebarns,andalong starts dirt trackupanddownthehills.Thetrail Paniki trees attheendof thevillage. for acolonyof huge blackbatshangingfrom Western womenandcars. Keep aneyeout into them,includingsoldiers withguns, barns have abizarre arrayof motifscarved an impressive of fleet 14ricebarns.The and traditionalhouse particularly grandiose to walkfromthePalopo Rd.Thevillage hasa Terminal Bolufor3000Rp,butyoumayhave take abemofrom (16km fromRantepao); south isthetraditionalvillage of to pretty villages, inricefields. set the river onthesuspensionbridge andwalk scattered bones.FromMarante youcancross tau tau, are stoneandhanginggraves withseveral Tampangallo. than akilometre) the ricefields to through (less off toSuaya, andwalkashort distance Sangalla, get offabout1km after theturn- Takestaircase. aKijang fromMakale to have descended fromheaven onastone scent fromTamborolangiq, to whoissaid Sangalla andMenkendek allclaimedde- ety. Theformer royal familiesof Makale, agricultural techniques into Torajan soci- troduced thecaste system, deathritualsand Tamborolangiq, tohave whoisbelieved in- descendants of themythicaldivinebeing graves belongto the chiefs of Sangalla, SangallaandSuaya.pangallo, between The springs swimmingpoolfor10,000Rp. Hotel Sangalla the upmarket Hotel Makale road.AtMakula, at youcanstay , wellsignposted fromtheRantepao- Makula South of Sangallaare thehotspringsat 706 From Nanggala youcanwalksouthto From Nanggala About 7kmoffthePalopo roadtothe There are more than40 MAMASA VALLEY ••Mamasa , a tough hike, atough (five hours) alonga (r perperson70,000Rp) skullsonthecoffinsandacave with s ) . The public can use thehot . Thepubliccanuse ; rates includemeals. Homestay Kalembang Homestay Kalembang tau tau tau ( % 24112; rfrom Nanggala tau tau tau atTam- Tem- .

Losmen Mini Sleeping &Eating sugar or kretek, milk,chocolate,gifts, such ascondensed kets direct fromweavers, sotake moneyor also beoffered plenty of fine-looking blan- hillvillages,walking through trekkers will While nights. cold mountain must forthose Look forlocally made woven blankets, a day, where hillpeople tradetheirproduce. of isthemarketlight the week Mon- every hustle of Indonesia’sbigcities.Thehigh- tothe used real, qualityfor those fairytale are hospitable.Therhythmof life hasasur- ley. Theairiscoolandclean, thefolk Mamasa istheonlylarge village in theval- MAMASA areBuntu Balla, very spread out. Kaluaarea, Balla and Balla, such asRante within them.Even centres withinthevillage cover broadareas andthere are few villages sion isthatvillage districts,such asBalla, or hire aguide. Theothersourceof confu- askdirections, toconstantly so you’llneed few roads,andmanypaths from, tochoose of countryside. themountainous There are low theridges, givinghikers stunningviews the valleyisonfoot.Thepaths tend tofol- nights. insulation forthecoldmountain together tomake blankets, which are ideal strips of heavy woven material are stitched the hillsaroundMamasa village. long These Sambu offlexing theirvocalchords inpraise God. regularly upanddownthevalley, meet with unfettered enthusiasm:choir groups aroundTana thanthose affairs Toraja. are on thewholethese farlessostentatious intheMamasa Valley,funerals survive but boo roofs totheeast.Torajan ceremonies and ent fromtheexaggerated boat-shapedbam- heavy, woodenroofs, which are quite differ- and Tana Toraja. Mamasan overplays Mamasa theconnection between referred toasWestTana Toraja, butthis in Sulawesi,theMamasa Valley isoften Another area of naturalbeauty outstanding VALLEYMAMASA of creaky lodge oldmountain inthe heartof Like Tana Toraja, thebestwaytoexplore Mamasans have embracedChristianity weaving isacraftthatstillthrives in Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (Jl AhmadYani;(Jl s/d 50,000/65,000Rp) to barter with. www.lonelyplanet.com have tongkonan have A sort Asort Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Mamasa GuestHouse Mamasa Hot springwater bathroom. flowstoevery offers lovely rooms foranegotiableprice. springs atKole,3kmnorthof Mamasa. It downstairs. catchYou might aspirited church service arguably thebestintown,with coldbeer. attached bathroom.Therestaurant here is in town,theroomsare andhave bright views. 60,000Rp) Tucked awaydownasidestreet butoffers good than thedarkofferings down below. town, theroomsupstairs are alotbrighter www.lonelyplanet.com d 87,000-120,000Rp) Manta Polewali (80km) 4 1 3 2 MAMASA VALLEY Ne'Amba Other options: Mamasa Cottages Mamasa Mantana Lodge Mantana To Mamuju (88km) To Salarindu(47km); Tanete Mussa Balla Peu Balla Kalua Waterfall AC Taibassi Allodio Rante Balla (Loko toMambulilin; Sumna Minanga 3 hoursonfoot) To Mambulilin Themostsophisticated digs Salurano Malabo Buntu Balla (Jl Emmy Saelan1;sfrom46,000Rp, (Jl (s/d US$40/46) (just offJlBuntuBudi;r (just

Sungai To Taupe Mamasa Osango 0 0 Mamasa Pena Mesa Kada Rante Sopang 6 Buntu Jl Pembangunan Buda Taupe Builtover hot 10

To Polewali (92km) Jl Ahmad Yani Loko

Jl Sudirman Jl Emmy Saelan Tondok Rante Katoan Bakaru

B

Jl Anda Jl Jl Anda Jl Buntu Kesisi 9 4 Ὀ Pongkok See inset Balla Kareke Jl Demmatande Sungai Mamasa Rante Mamasa 8 Kole Sports Hot Spring Field 1 300 m

0.2 miles Baruna

Jl Pendidikan Jl JlPendidikan Jl Tande Rante Buda 5 3

due to the tough terrain it may take several terraindue tothetough itmaytake several p708 ). Anew roadisunderconstruction,but but fromBittuangyou’llhave towalk(see from Makale toBittuangbyKijangorbemo, theroadissobad.Youcan travelbecause butthere’sto Rantepao, nodirect transport close On amap,Mamasa lookstantalisingly &Away There Getting tion of fresh produceinthemarket. able inlocalshops,andthere’s agoodselec- supplies are Basic their guesthouse. avail- and mostvisitors endupchowing downin There aren’t anyreal restaurants inMamasa Toraja Guest HouseGereja 60,000Rp) Reasonable roomsinanoldhouse. 60,000Rp) Reasonable

To RanteDuang Jl Buntu Budi Buntu Jl Jl Buntu Budi Buntu Jl Bombong 11 Tawalian Rante Duang 7 Pena (3km) Kariango Pa'kassasan To Tawalian(4km); Church Toraja

Jl Orobua Bittuang (66km) Mamasa To Kole(3km);

Orobua (8km); Jl Rambu Saratu Paladan Paladan (9km) Tatale Orobua Lombonan MAMASA VALLEY ••Mamasa 2 0 0 TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION optl...... B3 Hospital...... Wartel...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Motorcycle Hire...... Bus/Bemo Terminal...... General Store...... Mantana Lodge...... Mamasa GuestHouse...... Losmen Mini...... Guest HouseGerejaToraja.... (Jl Demmatande 182;r (Jl Sebang To Timbaan(MamasatoTimbaan; Bittuang (MamasatoBittuang; 23km, 1dayonfoot); 59km, 3daysonfoot) D 4 miles To Bittuang 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

(75km)

8 km B4 B4 C4 C3 B4 B4 B4 C3 B4 C4 707 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI with jungle walksandpanoramic views. (9km). fall), andontothe peakof to can continuefrom Lokoupthesteephill Hardyvia KoleorTondok Bakaru. hikers in thejungle. Theonly waythere istohike is atraditionalvillage set witholdhouses, the guestsatMamasa Cottages. A donation(about5000Rp)isexpected. five localleaders, thechief of Rambusaratu. valley, builtabout300years agoforoneof inthe one of theoldestandbestpreserved with colourfulmotifs.This anoldchief’s place House), (High Layuk long Buda(4km)hasanimpressive 25m- Rante ofMamasa North kretek, andothergoodsfromtown. milk,chocolate,bring condensed sugar, own coffee here, inreturn forany hospitality overnight.to stay As mostpeoplegrowtheir clothes andgiftsforyourhostsifyouplan easy toreach fromMamasa, buttake warm kilometres fromMamasa inbrackets) are are theonlyaccesstomostvillages. paths andvery slendersuspensionbridges the valley’scoupleof mainroads,butfoot- day. Youcancharter abemoorKijangalong around townforanegotiable80,000Rpper strikingly beautiful.Youcanhire motorbikes The countrysidesurroundingMamasa is AROUND MAMASA dryupintheafternoon. early asservices road,oftenrough pronetomudslides.Start Mamasa (30,000Rp, three hours) alonga From here lotsof creaky goto minibuses Majene orMamuju andget offatPolewali. (or anywhere catch abustowards else), Bus inMakale. fromTana Otherwise, Toraja hours), three from DiscoIndah timesaweek Toraja and Mamasa isthebus(80,000Rp,10 horse ontoBittuangforabout 150,000Rp. day,whereevery youcanhookupwitha ning fromMamasa to Pondingfor60,000Rp years tocomplete. Currently, are jeeps run- 708 weaving and retailing crafts. Thepath up Sopang (12km) isa busycentre for Rante South of Mamasa (3km) has hot springs, tapped for Kole (3km)hashotsprings,tapped in The followingplaces(withdistances The onlydirect Tana connectionbetween Mambulilin Sarambu Mambulilin MAMASA VALLEY ••AroundMamasa building known as Banua tongkonan buildingknownasBanua Taupe (5km)isatraditional village (Mambulilin Water- Gunung Mambulilin tongkonan is Loko (4km)

Paladan furthersouth. area. There are more viewsfrom sweeping a fineoldtongkonan,oneof thebestin tedong burialsites. (18km)has Further south,Malabo views alongthewholevalleyfromMussa Balla Peu; megalithicremains at waterfall at there’s toBuntuBalla burial sites. a Close traditional weaving and nan, andwoven blankets andbaskets. Balla(12km)hasbigbeautiful Rante centres fortraditionalweaving andcarving. a cave. Tanete Taibassi andnearby are also which are foraswim. suitable (2km)are hotsprings, Kada the way.Mesa very spread out,soaskfordirections along old. There are lotsof paths andthevillage is upto200years supposedly (burial houses), tinctive, colourfulblankets. long stripsof heavy clothforMamasa’s dis- to afew workshops,where women weave the hillfromroadsidecraftshopleads (3km)–Pa’kassasan (2km)–Lombonan (3km)–Tadokalua(3km)–Pa’kassasan eight hours) toTimbaan (23km, about Day 1–Mamasa days tocomplete. Salurea andBuloSandana, buttakes four Mamasa. Anup-and-comingroute takes in andguides andcompanies inRantepao other trekking routes by will bedeveloped thisroute andthat touse more starts traffic new roadnears completion, itmaybethat can hitanytime, so comeprepared. As the Bittuang. Thearea ischillyand rain atnight day –askathotels inMamasa oraround some of thewayforaround150,000Rpper may beabletohire ahorse,withguide, oreatatalosmen.You if youdon’tstay pay yourway–inreturn foranyhospitality commodation. Bringappropriate gifts–or of villages alongthewayforfoodandac- track iseasytofollow,andthere are plenty in oneandtoBittuangthenext day. The and legsof steelyoucanmake ittoPonding hike takes three days,butwithanearlystart Mamasa Valley andTana Toraja. The59km This route istheonlydirect the waybetween toBittuang Mamasa Southeast of Mamasa, Buntu Balla(15km)hasbeautifulviews, Tanete Osango (3km)isthesite of tedong-tedong The most popularroute: (8km) has mountain graves (8km)hasmountain under Rante Buda (4km from Mamasa)–Mama Buda(4km fromMamasa)–Mama Rante Allodio; atraditionalvillage at www.lonelyplanet.com Orobua (9km)has tedong-tedong ; and Manta tongko- tedong- .

Bittuang, but you’re better off catching a bemo or Kijang Bittuang, butyou’re betteroffcatchingabemoorKijang yourfillingsloose.There are threeshake simplelosmenat Ponding andPaku toBittuangfor20,000Rp, whichwill from (three hours),butthere isanirregular jeepservice Day 3 – Paku toBittuang(16km) Day 3–Paku Day 2–Timbaan (20km,aboutsixhours) toPaku bedsandmeals foraround50,000Rp. losmen offering winds itswaydowntoTimbaan, where there are three noodlesoup.Thetrailthen coffee andpacket gritty serving great viewsacrossbothvalleys. There’s asimplestallhere sharplyatLombonan.Tadokaluarises atthesummitoffers summit (4km)–Timbaan (7km).Thewalkiseasyuphillbut www.lonelyplanet.com at MountainHomestay,bothfor50,000Rp(withmeals). stay atHomestayPapasado; orcontinuetoPaku andstay AtPondingyoucan fields, throughvillagesandoverrivers. (5km)–Paku (7km).Thepathundulatesitsway pastrice (4kmfromTimbaan)–TabangMawai (4km)–Ponding (55km) To Siwa (55km) To Siwa SOUTHEAST SULAWESI To Bajoe (150km) Teluk Bone Malamala Susua SULAWESI Padamarang Tolala Latowu SOUTH

Pulau Sungai Konaweha Sungai Wolo Buapinang Tamboli ὈὈ SOUTHEAST SOUTHEAST Towuti Danau SOUTHEAST SULAWESI Towari Tambea Kabaena Kolaka Pulau National Park Watumohai Rawa Aopa Selat Kabaena SULAWESI CENTRAL It’seasiertowalk Poleang ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ Una'aha Laloa Laslolo Watumohai Mondeodo Gunung (549m) Mawasangka Tampunawu Dualo Wawotobi Aopa Rawa Motaha Kambara Torobulu Wakingku Amesiu Bahodopi Latugho Kendari Bone Bahubulu

Tiwor Selat Pulau Muna Siumpu Pulau Wajo Pulau Labengke Pulau Salabangka diving. some of Indonesia’sbestsnorkelling and besi Islandsoffthesoutherntip,offering tional Park, located intheremote Tukang- top attractionhere isWakatobi Marine Na- and surprisinglygoodtransportlinks.The cultures,striking sceneryandhospitable will findthemselves rewarded withsome pared toventure alittleoffthebeaten track but thehandfulof travellers thatare pre- Few visitors make itto Southeast Sulawesi, SULAWESI SOUTHEAST toRantepao. Kijangs (15,000Rp,twohours),fromwhere there are to Makale Islands Tampo Raha Bau Morame Lopuko F LORES Teluk Kolona Napabale S EA Teluk Tolo Buton Selat Bone Lawowa Buton Pulau Lawele Lasalimu Langara Pulau Padea-Besar Pulau Manui Wowoni Pulau Tukangbesi Islands National Park (Tukangbesi) Wakatobi Kaledupa 0 0 Marine Pulau

Wanci Onemobaa SULAWESI Wangiwangi Pulau B AND Pulau Binongko S EA Pulau Pulau Hoga Tomea Pulau 30 miles

50 km

709 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI ones include anattached bathroom. airy, cleanrooms and themore expensive bus terminal, Ithas isthebestplace to stay. try tocarryon Kendari orBajoe. Family. You canchange moneyat themarket.space, which once housed Next tothebus terminal isahuge empty about 500mnorthof theferry terminal. the primarysourcesof income. cloves andotheragriculturalproduceare regional dayscocoa, industry,butthese mine northwestof Kolakawasonceamajor east Sulawesiprovince. ThePomalaanickel andisthemajorBajoe, gateway to South- Kolaka isreadily accessible byboatfrom % KOLAKA lation toalmosttwomillion. tion (see p60 ), which hasboosted itspopu- andisacentreplantations fortransmigra- ported bymining,agriculture andtimber sector. TodaySoutheastSulawesiissup- alike, decimatingthe region’s agricultural plundered byrebel andgovernment forces of theprovince. Farms andvillages were a timeof extreme hardshipforthepeople Dutch until1830. so wellitwasnotreally ‘discovered’ bythe mouth of Kendari harbour hidthetown est, buttheislandof Bungkutokoatthe Kendaripreservation. wasoneof thebusi- a lowprofile, probablyforreasons of self- in 1906. 1669, andwasgranted limited autonomy rect Dutch ruleafter thefallof Makassar in Dutch colonialists.Butoncameunder di- other regional stateswassupported bythe Itscontrolandinfluenceover Bau. Bau atWolio, near kingdom wasButon,based scenes, boatsandwarriors onhorseback. The red ochre paintingsincludehunting paintings onthewallsof caves nearRaha. east Sulawesiare depicted inprehistoric Some of theearliestrecords of life inSouth- History Negara Indonesia;JlRepelita) 710 40,000Rp) Hotel FamilyHotel There are notmanyfacilities intown,so The centre of townisthebusterminal, The civilstrife of the1950sand1960swas Other localtradingcentres maintained The region’s mostpowerfulpre-colonial 0405 SOUTHEAST SULAWESI •• Kolaka SULAWESI••Kolaka SOUTHEAST , aquiet spot 150msouthwest of the ( % 21350; Jl Cakalang 6;r30,000- 21350; JlCakalang , notfarfromHotel BNI bank (Bank Tourist office Tourist Telkom office Police station postoffice Main Hospital BNI bank Bank Danamon Information interchangeably.used end where are JlSudirmanandSoekarno names are confusing,especiallyatthe the busterminals. Themainroad’smany main roadhasmostof thefacilities,except suburb tothewest.Theonevery, verylong more modernaseach erahasaddedanother port intheeast,andbecomesprogressively kota (city)precinct adjacenttotheoriginal Kendari of beginsinatangle lanesin theold Orientation long haulfromMakassar toWakatobi. tion thatmakes itagoodplacetobreak the it excepttherange of decentaccommoda- is abustlingtownwithlittletorecommend elsewhere.dramatic developments Kendari its isolationcontinuestocushion itfrom covery’ byaDutch explorer in1830,and known of Kendari’s history before its‘dis- faring BugisandBajo traders. Littlewas theinlandTolakipeopleandsea- tween thekeyhas longbeen portfortradebe- ofThe capital SoutheastSulawesi province % KENDARI for aconvenient arrivalinMakassar. and are alltimedtoconnectwithservices The ferries leave at5pm, 8pmand11pm, eastern of coast thesouthwestpeninsula. hours),class, eight themainporton (40,000/50,000Rpdeck/businessto Bajoe drivers. dari orMakassar – justcheck withthebus spare onabusgoingdirectly seat toKen- are ontheferry youmaybeable tofinda Kendari (45,000Rp, sixhours). Whileyou and Kijangstravel Kolakaand between plentyof bemos All dayandnight, buses, &Away There Getting hospital, 6kmwestoftown. change money. of limited use. centre. Three ferries travel overnight fromKolaka 0401 /pop235,000 ( % (Bank NegaraIndonesia; JlSudirman) 321773; Jl Sam Ratulangi) Areliable public 321773; JlSamRatulangi) ( ( (Jl AhmadYani;(Jl % % (Jl Diponegoro)Thebestplace to (Jl (Jl Sam Ratulangi) Alsohas aninternet SamRatulangi) (Jl 326634) Inconveniently located and 321461; JlSudirman) www.lonelyplanet.com h 24hr) kota

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com man 84; rfrom160,000Rp; din 44;r100,000-150,000Rp; affordable prices. affordable looking the baywithanextensive menuat better views.There isalsoa restaurant over- expensive options comewithhotwater and whilethemorerooms have satellite TV, balcony toenjoy the viewsandbreezes. All a smallhill;take advantage of theprivate r withfan/air-con66,000/110,000Rp; shape. balcony. Theair-con roomsare inbetter rooms are ageingdays,buthave these a Thefan andgoodservice. friendly staff running place,justoffthemainroad, with traditional musicandplentyof partying. the socialcalendar,withdragon-boat races, ofis heldeach Aprilandisthehighlight www.lonelyplanet.com Cendrawasih Hotel Sleeping Kendari Teluk Festival Festivals &Events has smart rooms with satellite TV and hot has smart rooms with satellite TV 1 3 2 KENDARIKENDARIKENDARI Kolaka (135km) Puwatu (6km); ὈὈὈ Kendari Kartika Hotel BeachHotel Kendari To BatuGong To Terminal

Jl Su (30km) Airport ekm...... C3 Telkom...... Bokori DivingCentre...... (see7) Tourist Office...... Police Station...... Main PostOffice...... Hospital...... BNI Bank...... Bank Danamon...... Jl Ahmad Yani SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION To

p

rapto Jl Haryono Jl Al-Kautbar AC Masjid 21

Jl A Silondae Kambu (3km) Air Terjun ( 7 % (Kendari Festival) Bay 20

To 13 ( a a %

Jl Sam Ratulangi 321932; JlDiponegoro42; Jl Bypass ( ) 4 % ) /fax 321988;JlHasanud- Thisislocated on This large hotel University Haluoleo 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 /fax 321484; JlPar- A2 B3 B2 B2 B3 C2 a 3 Rumah MakanMarannu...... Restoran Karina...... Night Warungs...... Kendari BeachHotel...... Hotel KartikaKendari...... oe edaai...... C2 Hotel Cendrawasih...... EATING SLEEPING ) B

Along- Jl Parman Jl 2 Jl

Teluk Kendari Sudirman (Jl Sudirman 5

9 Jl

Sutoyo

Soekar ther west specialise in tasty baked intasty ther westspecialise fish. Another groupof warungabout 200mfur- food, andexcellent(free) viewsof thebay. Theyofferin theevening. cheap Indonesian along JlBungTomoare apopularhang-out warungliningtheesplanadeThe night Eating Merpati AIR &Away There Getting quickly. asitadds up on theseafood, the weight of foodintown, butwatch thebestChinese sian food’sgreatest hits. location andhasagoodrange of Indone- this eatery isgoodvalueforsuch adesirable 25,000-40,000Rp; h nect Kendari and Makassar. Don’t forget to hot water working.Discountsavailable. water. Youmayhave toget the topester staff Sudirman) Kendari 6 Teluk Central 16 Pasar Restoran Karina Restoran Marannu Makan Rumah

breakfast, lunch&dinner) Jl Bung Tomo Bung Jl

n o) Ὀ 13 12 11 10 9 8 12

SOUTHEAST SULAWESI••Kendari SOUTHEAST Jl A2 C2 C2 C2 B2

and LionAir Hasa 14 0.5miles 0 0 (Merpati Nusantara Airlines; (Merpati 11

10 nuddin Terminal PasarBaru...... Terminal Mandonga...... Super-jet...... Pelni Dock...... Pelni...... Merpati...... Lion Air...... (see9) Dock (SlowBoats)...... Central BemoTerminal...... TRANSPORT Bus AgencyforMakassar&Watampone..(see6) h Jl Diponegoro 18 19 17 1 8 breakfast, lunch&dinner)

2miles 3km 0 0 To Toronipa (Jl BungTomo;mains20,000Rp; (Jl ( % See Enlargement 1 km 15 329911; JlParman 84) Near thewarungs, Near (Jl ASilondae;mains (Jl Kendari Central D % Morame (65km) To AirTerjun 322242; Jl Some 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14

con-

A3 A2 C3 C3 C3 C3 D3 C3 711 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI Puwatu. onds, andmany continue on toTerminal Mandonga and themarket few every sec- link the kota endof townwithTerminal catch an air-conditionedelse, Pete-pete taxi. main road,take a take abecak;foranything alongthe tances, charter one. hicle orifyoudon’t mindtheextracost, the airport,you can jumpinashared ve- pick-up pointsintown.From with certain Kendari –bothairlinesusuallyrunabus to theairport,which is30kmsouthwestof theairlineofficeabouttransport Contact Around Getting business class. trip indeckclass,butyoucanupgrade to 95,000/120,000Rp, andincludes the ferry 4am). Thefare toWatampone/Makassar is (which atabout meansarrivinginBajoe at about1pmtolinkwiththe8pm ferry agencies leave intown.Mostbuses Kendari a ticket (andboardthebus)atoneof the six hours). It’smore convenient tobook Kijangs andbemosgotoKolaka(45,000Rp, west of town.Fromthere, plentyof buses, The mainterminal isatPuwatu,about 10km BUS, BEMO&KIJANG Pelni office Adjacent toachurch ontopof ahill,the BOAT details. theairfares map( airport. See p669 ) formore abouttransporttotheremote ask thestaff Super-jet office from theSuper-jet hours). Youcanbuyyourticket directly (100,000Rp, five3½ hours)Bau andBau (75,000Rp, 7.30am and1pmdailyforRaha leaves thePelni dockatKendari atabout kassar (131,000/405,000Rp,22hours).kassar andMa- Bau Bau for Manado; andtoRaha, andBitung ontoLuwuk,Gorontalo goes class 85,000/258,000Rp,12hours), andthen up thecoasttoKolonedale(economy/1st EveryBau. theTilongkabila twoweeks heads is relatively tothemajor close portof Bau dock. roundabout, andnotfarfromthePelni 8) 712 nearthePelni dock. Kendari isveryspread out.Forshort dis- The super-jet byPelni,Kendari but isnot wellserviced SOUTHEAST SULAWESI •• Around Kendari SULAWESI••AroundKendari SOUTHEAST ( % 321915) kapal cepat (fastboat) pete-pete; toanywhere isjustupfroma

( % 329257; JlSukowati

Hotel Alia Hotel Sleeping &Eating You canchange money at cavehorse fighting, paintingsandlagoons. isfamousforits Kendari Raha Bau. andBau is aquietbackwater about halfwaybetween onPulauMuna, themainsettlement Raha, % RAHA ing. and opportunitiesfor reserve is anature This tinyisland,18kmofftheKendari coast, Hari Pulau to If youhave aboat,arrange detour aslight hours) fromnearthePelni dockinKendari. (one hour),orcharter aboat(abouttwo swimming. ofthe base thefalls,which isexcellentfor south of Kendari. There poolat isadeep banyan trees onSungaiKali 65km Osena, amidebony,teakbling waterand set This impressive waterfall is100mof tum- Air Terjun Morame charter apete-pete University. Walkfromtheuniversity, or upstream fromthecampus atHaluoleo fallatthefootof GunungKambu, 3km water attractionto KendariThe closest isthis Air Terjun Kambu AROUND KENDARI and clearwater. and Sutomo) that isopen toallcomers. 125,000Rp. There isalsoasmall restaurant rooms or youcanbecome aVIPforjust way, thisquiethotel hasbasicbutclean Convenient for itsproximity tothe cause- your ownsnorkelling gear. cost about150,000Rpfortheday, but bring near thePelni dock inKendari. Itshould group together, andcharter aboatfrom other nearbyislands.Alternatively, get a diving andsnorkelling tripstoHari and atthetouristofficeinKendari,based runs wati) with air-con 175,000Rp; Take abusfromTerminal Pasar Baru Hotel Ilham Hotel Teluk Lapuko,agreat spotfor 0403 , butdon’t(ahem) countonit. Bokori DivingCentre Bokori , withwhite-sandbeaches snorkelling andBNIbank Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ( % ( 21218; JlSudirman5; r from65,000Rp) % 21070; JlJati16;r with fan66,000Rp, with white-sand beaches withwhite-sand a . (Bank NegaraIndonesia; JlSuka- ) One of the few places

andwalk- snorkelling www.lonelyplanet.com ( % 326634; fax327435) Bank Danamon swimming (Jl ,

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com of thecauseway. of Sulawesi.ThePelni officeisattheend theeastcoast Bau) ari) anddown(viaBau onitswayup(viaKend-bila stopsatRaha meals 10,000-25,000Rp; for theonboardscrambletoclaimaseat. ready hours) atabout10amand3.30pm.Be (50,000Rp,1½ Bau and 1.30pm;forBau Kendari (75,000Rp, 3½hours) at8.30am boatsareari. These scheduled toleave for Super-jet office Super-jet tickets thedaybefore departure fromthe onthefastsuper-jet. Bau Bau Purchase Kendari istheonlystopbetween and Raha &Away There Getting ably quiet.Ithaslarge, cleanrooms. site thebus/bemoterminal, andstillreason- thisisafriendlyoperation. the hotseason, in towntooffer anair-con escapeduring www.lonelyplanet.com very path finishes. rough walk (ortake an off atthe unmarked turn-off. From here, wards Lohia and askthedriver todropyou beach assuch. Take theregular (bring yourown gear), there isn’tasandy youcanswimandsnorkeltions. Although superb sceneryand unusualrockforma- Not farfromNapabale, Melerua beach has Pantai Melerua you mayhave thisidyllicplacetoyourself. when it’sgenerally crowded.Onotherdays andoftenfood stalls, afew more onSunday, of theroad.There are usuallyacoupleof lagoon isanother1.5kmwalk,at theend pete-pete toLohia village, fromwhere the Youcanreach itby Raha. lake. Napabaleisascenic ride(15km)from ming, andyoucanhire boatstoexplore the low. Itisagreat area for whenthetideis you canpaddlethrough viaanaturaltunnel,so linked tothesea lagoon atthefootof ahill.Thelagoonis main attractionis Raha’s Napabale, apretty Napabale AROUND RAHA 65,000/75,000Rp) culinary capital ofculinary capital Indonesia. baked fish,butbear inmindthisisnotthe withexcellent The bestoptioninRaha, Every thePelni twoweeks liner Rumah Makan Cahaya Pangkep Cahaya Makan Rumah Permata Sari Hotel Conveniently located oppo- ( % ojek) about 7kmuntil the 22018; JlDewantara) h

( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) 21164; JlAYani 67;s/d ojek, orbyregular and hiking pete-pete to-

(Jl Sudirman; (Jl inKend- Tilongka- swim-

tourist department department the offices forthetourist of harbour,with the mainportisasecond from themainmosque. Around1.5kmeast (walled citypalace). past thepostoffice towardsthe south Kartini a bridge crosses thencurves esplanade,JlYosSudarso.the seafront Jl port, alongJlKartini, which diverges from are about500mwestof themainPelni The terminal, mainmosqueandmarket &Information Orientation ofparadise Tukangbesi. to Maluku, NorthSulawesi, orthediving is agreat placetoawaitaboatconnection beaches ojekrange,Bau withineasy Bau wallsandsomedecent citadel preserved tions, great viewsfromtheunusuallywell- accommodation op- With comfortable ments onButonandneighbouring islands. Wolio, which reigned over scattered settle- of theformersultanateof wastheseat Bau Pulau Buton’sprosperousmaintown, Bau % BAU tender-hearted. with arobustfollowing–it’snotforthe isaMunatradition flying. Horsefighting as wellthemore gentle of spectacle kite Thefestival features combat, Raha. horse 30kminlandfrom the village of Latugho, Napabale Danau Festival Latugho takers wholive nearby. you thewaytocaves, andtothecare- someonefromMaboluyou’ll need toshow path tothecaves. Thepaths are notclear,so and askthedriver todrop you offatthe so catch (orcharter) a ers, headlesswarriors andsomeboats. which haspaintingsof ahorsewithtworid- the bestcaves, with starting The caretakers of cantake youtoaselection more interesting thanthecaves themselves. ations andpretty walledgardens,isprobably Gua Mabolu (Mabolu Caves), plant- through The solid10kmwalkfromMabolu village to Gua Mabolu Telkom and donesia; JlKartini) relied upon, aswell asexchange. SOUTHEAST SULAWESI••AroundRaha SOUTHEAST The bestinternet café isablockinland toMabolu village,It is12kmfromRaha 0402 /pop83,000 Pelni. The has an ATM thatshouldn’t be isheldeach Juneat BNI bank pete-pete toMabolu , Liang Metanduno (Bank Negara In- ( % kraton 23588) 713

,

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI din 69;rfrom195,000Rp; nearby. in advance;there are noshopsoreateries arrival andtoorderanymeals(35,000Rp) of sure your tocallaheadalertstaff Be with mosquitonetsandshared bathroom. the bayandbeyond.Theroomsare simple, panoramicviewsofgarden withoutstanding amidahilltopflower budayaan Wolio,set wesi. It’sabouthalfaklickabove Ke- Pusat anywhere settings most spectacular inSula- a few hundred metres westof theport. alongtheesplanade, upatnight) (many set from PulauHoga inWakatobi. teams (see right ) when transferring toand preferred hotel of theOperationWallacea beyond.Thisisthe pool towardsthe sea that overlook thegardensandswimming plussmallbalconies clude air-con andTV, is areal gem. Thewell-appointed roomsin- Pelni office,2kmeast of theport, thishotel fast 100,000Rp) Hotel Lilyana Hotel Sleeping &Eating swimming. cals prefer there amountof isacertain rubbish.Lo- tively palm-linedPantai Nirwana , though the nearest white-sandbeach istheattrac- kilometresEleven southwestof Bau, Bau Festival Bau’s Bau each Kraton September. mansion-palace, which isthefocalpoint of tural centre inarestored andmuseum old south gate is mosque. Some500mbeyondthecitadel’s homesandthe old royal semi-traditional and flowers withinthewallsare timeless town anditsnorth-facing bay. Amidtrees century wallsthatoffer great views over the impressively 16th- longandwell-preserved with is theKraton,Wolioroyalcitadel steeplybehindthetown centreBanking Sights &Activities 714 Raha (55,000Rp) andfive hours to Ken-Raha The fast super-jet boat takes 1½hours to BOAT &Away There Getting shape. facelift afew years agoandisstillingood of thesmarter centralhotels, itwasgiven a Rajawali Ratu Hotel You’ll findrestaurants andwarungs Hillhouse Resort Resort Hillhouse SOUTHEAST SULAWESI••Tukangbesi Islands SOUTHEAST Pantai Batauga,10kmbeyond,for

Thislittleplacehasoneof the ( % Pusat Kebudayaan Wolio,acul- Pusat Kebudayaan 21197; Jl Kartini 18;r95,000Rp) 21197; JlKartini as

( % ( % ) 22162; JlSultanHasanud- Right opposite Right the 21189; rwithbreak- One lacea Siguntang, sort day before) atthe than supply,sobookahead(from5pmthe 12.30pm daily.Demandcanoften begreater dari (100,000Rp),andleaves at7amand Resort here. For more contact details, to besure. is available, butbringyourownifyouwant meals. Somebasicsnorkelling equipment the islandforabout50,000Rpincluding possible toarrange on informalhomestays galow perperson100,000Rp) lers isPulauHoga. landscapes. marine life, isolated beaches andstunning snorkel ling anddiving,ablazeof coralsand ficult toreach, buttheydooffer superb the farsoutheastcoast,islandsare dif- Wakatobi).PositionedremotelyLaut off NationalPark Marine Wakatobi of part in the1980s.Mostof theislandsare now thearea ing intheworld’whenhesurveyed besi Islandsoffered ‘possiblythefinest div- According toJacques Cousteau, theTukang- ISLANDS TUKANGBESI Bitung (forManado), amongotherplaces. of Sulawesi,stoppingoffatKendari and kabila upanddowntheeastcoast goes and/or Papua. Every the twoweeks most alsogotoAmbon,southernMaluku (economy/1st class92,000/285,000Rp),and withMakassar Bau Kelimutu linkBau 500m westof theport. which isopposite WarungPangkep, about Wallacea. have toworkingwithOperation gotused the like are onHoga,asthe locals higher duringbusyperiods. up withahomestay Pulau Hogaand may beable hookpeople sive. Theorganisation hasastudycentre on trips mustbepre-booked andare expen- Thepublicare welcome,but conservation. interestedprogrammes forthose inmarine the most celebrated house reefsthe most celebrated house in Indone- tiful bungalow accommodation andone of This ultra-exclusive hideaway offers beau- The British-based NGO, The onlyplacereally geared uptotravel- Every thePelni twoweeks liners The only otheroptionis aware that pricesforcharterBe boatsand (www.wakatobi.com) (www.wakatobi.com) (www.opwall.com) ( Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com % 0402-21189) Ciremai, Super-jet office Super-jet in Bau Bau. Itisalso Bau. inBau Island Garden Resort Island Garden , organises ‘volunteer’ Lambelu, on Pulau Onemobaa. has fourbungalows www.lonelyplanet.com Wakatobi Dive Re- Dive Wakatobi Operation Wal-

Rinjani ( % (Taman Hillhouse Hillhouse Tilong- 22497) Bukit

and (bun- , .wakatobi.com) elegant liveaboard the forthe at aboutUS$2000.Itisalsothebase andcharter start full board fromBali flights sia. packages One-week includingdiving, www.lonelyplanet.com Makassar. Makassar. rival withthePelni liner The smoothestoptionistotimeyourar- boat, ormore likely charter one,toHoga. early thenextday.Waitaroundforanother ally leaves andarrives intheevening very Wanci onPulauWangiwangi,which usu- sar. take thedailyboatto Bau, FromBau about twodaysineach direction toMakas- at theWakatobiDive Resort, thenittakes less youare fortunatetobestaying enough Kalukunangka CENTRAL SULAWESI Ὀ Ὀ Getting toHogaisthebigheadache.Getting Un- SULAWESI To Toli-Toli SOUTH (400km) Towale Isolated Statues Other Megalithic Remains Cluster/ Donggala Kasoloan Tanjung Karang National Park Mantikole Bora . Teluk Palu Wani Pantoloan Pakuli

Marantule

Palu Kulawi

Seko Gimpu Palu Sungai ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Watubose To Palopo CENTRAL (37km) Danau Lindu

Sadaunta

Sungai Banggai

Tuare Lariang Pelagian Kamarora National Park Hangirah Valley To Toli-Toli Besoa Lore Lindu

Tilongkabila from 2 Toboli Nokilalaki

(280km)

Gunung (2355m) day Rachmat Moa

Kadiadia

Gintu Parigi trek Betue (www.pelagian Doda Masamba Napu Valley (2508m) Tokasa Gunung Valley Wuasa Bada Lariang Sungai Bomba Watutau Tonusu Sedoa Lambogo Air Terjun Taipa Anggrek Salopa Bancea Taman Bonebone Mapane Danau Toini Maranda Poso Sungai Poso Bunta attract mostvisitors, numbers though have lakes mountains, andvalleysthat it’s these km hinterland issparselypopulated. But towns;asaresult,coastal the63,000-sq- lawesi’s populationlives in the province’s Su- history andlandscapes.Mostof Central accessible pick’n’mixof nature, culture, Indonesia canboastsuch aninteresting and a detourworthwhile. Few otherplacesin Sulawesimakecultures Central throughout rugged highland landscapeandhospitable leys andthetranquilDanauPoso,but Val-megaliths andBesoa aroundBada inthisregionThe leadinglights are the CENTRAL SULAWESI Teluk Tomini Tindoli Tentena Air TerjunSulewana Pendolo Teluk Bone Ranononucu Lembomawo Poso Gua Tampenaporo Wotu Mangkutana Madale Matako Teluk Poso Kolaki 0 0 Beteleme Malili Uekuli ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Kolonedale Matano Danau Soroako Tombiano Gua To Bomba(38km); (Togean Islands) Wakai (60km)

Nuha SULAWESI Nature Reserve Pagimana (200km); Morowali

Towuti Danau Luwuk (240km) Ampana Morowali Mahalona MorowaliSungai Marowo Salonsa Danau Tomori

Ὀ Ὀ 30 miles Teluk 50 km 715

To SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI concern. down, butrandombombingsremain a real during theclashes,which have sincedied displaced. Many buildings were destroyed than 1000peopledeadandmany more religious lines,theviolencehasleftmore from unpredictable violence. Drawnalong down toTana Toraja inSouthSulawesi. and there are others theregion, throughout Valley, intheBada is alongSungaiLariang their creation. concentration Thehighest but nooneknowswhowasresponsible for Sulawesi, liths Central foundthroughout toric remains are theBronzeAge mega- prehis- Themostspectacular settlement. nedale indicate alonghistoryof human Undated remains fromacave nearKolo- History very quiet. region and once-popularplacesare now hardhitbytheviolencearound been trips, butchartering boats issurprisingly hard countryside around the lake, or take boat at Tentena orPendolo. You canhike inthe coolwithout beingtoocold. pleasantly is 600mabove are –sotheevenings level sea reaches anaverage depth of 450m.Thelake covers anarea of 32,300 hectares and Indonesia’s third-largest lake, Danau Poso, DANAU POSO 716 Since 1998,thePosodistricthassuffered Danau Poso isthemain reason tostop by publictransport. by private vehicle isconsidered safer than lice checkpointsare commonandtravelling busterminalsplaces like andmarkets. Po- through thearea andavoidcrowdedpublic check thelatest situationbefore travelling travellerseigners isunlikely, shoulddouble far fromstable. Whileviolenceagainstfor- schoolgirls 2005andthingsare inOctober Add tothattherandombeheadingofthree eight. on ChristmasDay2005whichkilled 22peopleandabombinPaluwhich killed including abombinTentena inMay2005 writing. Violent incidentscontinuetooccur, remainstricts potentially riskyatthetimeof Travel toPalu, Posoandthesurroundingdis- WARNING CENTRAL SULAWESITRAVEL CENTRAL SULAWESI••DanauPoso and walk3kmwestfromthesign. Take anybemoheadingnorthfromTentena steaming white water, 10kmfromTentena. near thejettyatPendolo are better. Thebeaches whenthetideishigh. disappear of narrowbeaches aroundTentena, butthese to arrange ineithertown.There’s ahandful hearty breakfast. option thantherooms, butbothincludea over the years. Thebungalowsare abetter centre, thisrusticplace hasproved popular boat landing,about 1kmeastof thevillage bungalow s/d40,000/60,000Rp) from 100,000Rp, cottages from 150,000Rp) Pendolo Cottages Sleeping &Eating facilities thanTentena. for swimming,butPendolo hasfarfewer and thebeaches aroundthejettyare great shore of DanauPoso. Itisacharming spot, Pendolo village isasleepy onthesouthern PENDOLO songs andtraditionalsports. ourful celebrationof culture, withdancing, Villagers fromfarafieldgather for acol- Danau PosoheldinTentena inlate August. wesi’s socialcalendaristheannual Sula- ofThe undisputed Central highlight Festivals &Events Tentena willcostaround80,000Rp return. ricefields.Acharteredthrough bemofrom dropped offattheturn-offandwalk3km across thebridge fromTentena, asktobe swimming holes.Take abemoheadingwest andsomepristine falls leadstoupperlevels unspoilt forest. Apathtotheleftof the ofclear series pools,cascadesand falls amid bemos toTaipa fromPendolo. 11km), bychartered vehicle, orbyirregular chid Garden).Itisaccessibleonfoot(about pecially in The lake isfamous foritswildorchids, es- Sights old jetty for somesunaction. Rooms are large andclean, plusthere’s an the lake, this placehasagreat reputation. at theendof JlPelabuhan, overlooking Homestay Masamba Air Terjun Sulewana Air Terjun Salopa,nearTentena, isacrystal- Mulia Poso Lake Hotel PosoLake Mulia Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Taman Or- Bancea(Bancea Anggrek (Jl AhmadYani(Jl 441;r50,000Rp, isasunken gully of (r from60,000Rp)

www.lonelyplanet.com (Jl Pelabuhan Wisata 1;r(Jl Right nexttothe Right Just tothe Located Festival Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com guides andmull over trekking itineraries. Natural Cottages, issomewhere to meet stretch hours. in daylight ofthe mountains thepretty Wotu–Pendolo cuts hours offthejourney,andyoucansee few people,thisisnotunreasonable –it bemo forabout500,000Rp.Split among a ( right ) formore details. Tentena There Getting &Awaysection are regular toPosoandPalu. the buses See take theboattoTentena, fromwhere there tena, take theboat; if headingfurthernorth, Pendolomany are full.Between andTen- matter of hailingdownapassingbus,but onwardtransportisnormally aGetting way, butthere isnobusterminal assuch. Pendolo isonthemainPalopo–Poso high- BUS &BEMO than thebus. Hotel,Lake andismore reliable andscenic 8am fromthejetty,nearMuliaPoso weather. Theboatleaves Pendolo dailyat and fresh air–butit’snofuninrough (25,000Rp, three hours) toenjoytheviews Most peopletake thePendolo–Tentena boat BOAT &Away There Getting restaurant withreasonable prices. erous discounts.There isalsoanelegant with tourgroups,hardtimescanmeangen- smartest placeinPendolo. Oncepopular east of Pendolo Cottages, theMuliais www.lonelyplanet.com PT Wisata Gautama PutraIndah PT Wisata Gautama about Lore Lindu andtheTogean Islands. good guides forMorowali, andtravel advice and Hotel Victoriare reliable for providing trekking Ue agencies: Pondok Wisata Datu hotels doubleaslocal touroperators and ali parkscanbearranged inTentena. Most Organised treks to Lore LinduandMorow- Information late August. The Festival DanauPosoisheldhere in cuisine, butlacksPendolo’s finebeaches. has excellentaccommodationand avaried surrounded byclove-covered hills.Tentena is larger andprettier thanPendolo, andis Tentena, atthenorthernendof thelake, % TENTENA From Rantepao youcouldcharterFrom Rantepao a 0458

( % 21356) , near Yos Sudarso22;s/d125,000/150,000Rp) 35,000Rp; 100,000-200,000Rp) tena andPendolo. reliable thanthebusfor travel Ten- between from Tentena. The boatismore scenicand lake toPendolo (25,000Rp, three hours) Every dayat11ama boat chugs acrossthe BOAT &Away There Getting tasty to tryitatlocalrestaurants. Youcanbuy buy afew totake home,butit’salittleeasier Youcould (eel). The localspecialityissugili Eating Victori Hotel Sleeping atwarungsinthecentresale of town. specimens are available forinspection and monsters forwhich Tentena isfamous.Live eel trapsnorthof thebridge snare the2m begins itsjourneytothecoast.V-shaped marks where thelake ends andSungaiPoso Tentena’s pretty, covered 210mbridge Sights &Activities two hours) and Palu. They leave from the make the bumpy run to Poso(15,000Rp, There are plenty of andbemos that buses BUS &BEMO while waitingfortheboat. dishes. It’sthebestplacetohave lunch fresh baked fishaswellplentyof other rant offering lake viewsandbreezes, and relaxed outdoorsittingarea. guides forlocaltours andtrekking, anda There isalsoabookexchange, adviceand expensive oneshave air-con andhotwater. themore noteven breezy rooms,although ‘sea’ viewsandare‘sea’ agoodsize. more expensive roomshave and ‘mountain’ good valueandsomehave lake views.The best lake views.The economyroomsare smartest hotel intown,italsoboaststhe satellite TV, fanandhotwater.satellite TV, to thejetty,more expensive rooms have 150,000Rp; of thebridge. infrontofpastry) atstalls theeastern part Hotel IntimDanauPoso Hotel Hotel Pamona Indah Permai Pamona Indah Hotel Hotel Pamona Indah Permai Pamona Indah Hotel pisang molen h a CENTRAL SULAWESI••Tentena breakfast, lunch&dinner) ) Apopularoption,itoffers big, ( % Conveniently located next 21392; JlDiponegoro18;r65,000- (banana fried in a sweet (bananafriedinasweet ( %

21345; fax21488;Jl (Jl Yos Sudarso25;r (Jl Probablythe Has arestau- (meals 15,000-

717 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI r 65,000Rp) Jl Kalimantan 15) Jl Kalimantan 718 the port. option isBNIbank,withanATM, near bound travellers tochange money;thebest the lastchance forTogean- andTentena- worth themoney. are quite pokey, buttheair-con rooms are of thesmarter losmen intown;thecheapies over thesea. the port.Italsohas agoodrestaurant built than most.Conveniently located nextto which gives the placemore atmosphere Losmen Alugoro Sleeping &Eating cilities are along,ornear,JlSumatera. has limited shopsandrestaurants. Mostfa- ,ismore like asmallvillage –it The northernpartof Poso,aroundJlHaji &Information Orientation remain foralongtime. by internal conflict,thescars of which will hithard the Togean Islands.Posohasbeen continue toAmpanacatch to theboat money. Many folkheadforthebeaches or a transitpointandsomewhere tochange Sulawesi.For most travellersof Central it’s for roadtransportonthenortherncoast Poso isthemaintown,portandterminal % POSO andupto500,000Rpcharterjeep, one. be around80,000Rpperperson bypublic the conditionof theroad.Thepriceshould in Lore LinduNationalPark dependson The availability andpriceof toGintu jeeps JEEP around Tentena. you canalsobooktickets atthebusoffices suchdistances, asthetriptoRantepao, tral Tentena onJlYosSudarso. Forlonger and sometimesfromthemarket incen- dolo andPoso(2kmnorthof Tentena), terminal attheforkof theroadstoPen- of town. most reliable restaurants inthe older part 25,000Rp; 40,000/55,000Rp, dwithair-con110,000Rp; Losmen LalangJaya Pelangi Makan Rumah tourist office Poso hasafriendlytourist 0452 /pop47,000 CENTRAL SULAWESI••Poso h Someroomshave oceanviews, breakfast, lunch& dinner) , butlimited resources. Posois

( % 21336; JlSumatera20;s/d ( % (Jl Tadulako;(Jl meals10,000- 22326; JlYosSudarso; Oneof the

a ( % ) One 21211; 457623; JlTanjung 144,Palu) Manimbayan Balai Taman Linduoffice NasionalLore and the modation) atKulawiand Wuasa, small field offices(which have noaccom- permits here (20,000Rp), aswell atthe walk fromKamarora village. You canbuy tion andvisitors centre are abouta1km The mainnational parkoffice,rangers sta- Information stones aroundGintu andDoda. its megalithicremains –giantfreestanding indigenous tribes,andfamous for several hornbills andshy tarsiers. It’salsohome to flies larger thanahumanhand, impressive otic plantandanimallife, includingbutter- area fortrekking –theparkisrich inex- barely touched bytourism.It’sawonderful large andremote nationalparkhasbeen LORE LINDUNATIONALCovering anarea of 250,000hectares, this PARK from theterminal atthemarket inPoso. Takenowned foritsebonycarving. abemo in Poso. bemo fromtheterminal nearthemarket great Allthree can be reached seafood. by 7km west,hasafew about 20kmfurthereast;andPantai Toini , Poso; isa Madale snorkelling spot5kmeastof ming andsnorkelling aroundPoso. Pantai There are plentyof goodplacesforswim- AROUND POSO beaches. market, bemosgo to nearbyvillages and Fromtheterminal,very rough. nexttothe asthestretchbuses, fromTobolitoPalu is paying alittlemore fortheexecutive-class from officesalongJlSumatera. It’sworth hours, 15,000Rp). alsoregularlyminibuses gotoTentena (two and Manado (30hours). Fromtheterminal, (13hours,hours), 110,000Rp) Rantepao to Ampana(five hours), Kolonedale(eight of thepostoffice,there are regular buses From thebusterminal, about800mnorth &Away There Getting east of theport. along thebreezy esplanade,JlPattimura, Lembomawo, 4kmsouthof Poso,isre- forPaluMost buses (sixhours), leave Every afternoon,warungare night up set isawhite-sandbeach Pantai Matako Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com rumah makan for where you

( % 0451- Losmen Rindu Alam. Losmen Rindu centre formegalithicremains, where you can stayatthe guests. There isapathfromGintu toDoda,alesser takes Moa’skepala on, overtwodifficultrivers. desaalso further you canstaywiththe about 10kmtoGintu,where you canstayatLosmenMerry. NingsiHomestay. Fromthere it’s Bomba, stayatthefriendly megaliths. At and lookfortheBomba,BadaSepe toBomba(18km), fromMalei day,hike hours). Thenext (six toPeatua bridge a motorbike (26km)andwalktoMalei andcharter thehike, tablets. Youcouldshorten purification under coveredYou’llneedtocarryfood andwater- bridges. transport toPalu. transport the Besoa Valley, ortravel backby public(or chartered) into the pleasant LosmenSanto. From Gimpuyoucanhike toGimpu, where youcanstayat withpoorbridges, rivers Tonusu–Gintu thetraillikeGimpu, andthentackle this: a public(orchartered) bemoto Tonusu or pick itupfromthebusoffice. take Tostart, drivertaxi todeliver it,orputitonabusand gear aheadbycarorbus–get nonessential a ning toreturn all point,send toyourstarting Hangirah –orviceversa. Unlessyou’re plan- Gimpu, viaTuare andMoa,orDoda and andGimpu. tau available from100,000Rpper dayatWatu- to goonhorseback; horses andhandlers are hours oneway).Anexcitingalternative is toDanauLindu(four way) andSadaunta toDanauLindu(sixhours one Rachmat aguide.(6km), you’llneed the summitof the2355m didia (3km),where youcanbathe. Toreach Kamarora, andthehotwater springsat the 10m-high which don’trequire aguide–such as of shorttrails, show youthestart several For Activities Danau Lindu. around 2500m; bird-watching, includinghornbills, Napu Valleys; remote peaks,somemore than alithic relics, mostlyinthe Attractions intheparkincludeancient meg- Sights maponthewall. the detailed questionsandcheck out can askthestaff www.lonelyplanet.com Moa–Gimpu Gintu–Moa The maintrekking trailisTonusuto Other longer hikes (withaguide)include , therangers atKamarora can trekking ; andthe3150-hectare lake, Kamarora It’s an easy three-hour walktoTuare, It’saneasythree-hour where It’s a strenuous eight-hour hike overtwo It’sastrenuous eight-hour hike FromTonusu,walkfortwodays,sleeping about2kmfrom waterfall kepala desa.Moaisfourhours

Gunung Nokilalaki Bada, Besoa and Ka-

bikes, aslocalscriss-crossthepark. trails have recently overused been by motor- horseback andfoot.Someof thewalking mud andholes, and transportisbyjeep, terrible. theroadiswarned thatsouthof Betue, Be andWatutau. Kamarora, Sedoa Wuasa, transport) fromPalu viaRachmat, toBetue, there’s thepaved road(withirregular public into amuddytracksouthof Gimpu.Lastly, Palu andGimpuispaved, butdeteriorates minal Masomba ( p722 ). The roadbetween vehicle ortake thetwice-daily busfromTer- from Palu toGimpu(100km)–charter a there’s theroad Tonusu toGintu.Secondly, park. Firstly, there’s thetrekking trailfrom There are three mainapproaches tothe &Away There Getting trekking. more informationonsafe andresponsible and isoften tospot.See difficult p843 for so thewildlife willberesting intheforest versely, duringthedayitcan get very hot, covered bridges, which canget cold.Con- king, youmayhave underroofs tosleep of plus giftstorepay Iftrek- anyhospitality. as mosquitorepellent andsunblocklotion, tobringothernecessities, such but it’swise at 200,000Rpperday. or nationalparkofficeinPalu. Guidesstart tourist officeinPoso;orthe thetwo fieldoffices(KulawiorWuasa); guide atthevisitors centre (Kamarora); the accommodation. five days,includingfood, transport and son (dependingongroupsize)forfourto 600,000Rp to1,000,000Rpandupperper- trekganised fromTentena willcostaround cies prefer all-inclusive tosell trips.Anor- a guideinTentena orPendolo, butagen- on findingthemegaliths. You canorganise ifyou’repulsory, andalsonecessary intent trekking,For long-distance aguideiscom- GUIDES shadow for most of theyear, it’s oneof occupation in WWII. Situated in arain came to prominence during theJapanese Palu, Sulawesi, only of thecapital Central % PALU Roads withinthe parkconsistchiefly of Food isreadily available inthevillages, If travelling independently,arrange a 0451 /pop 282,000 CENTRAL SULAWESI••Palu

719 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 720 this hotel is known for its service. The 1st- this hotel isknown forits service. hood, rather alongway from theaction, the staffare efficient. located. chaeological items, butitisinconveniently traditional art,andothergeological andar- local guide. knowledgeable manager alsodoublesasa are cleanandinclude abathroom.The forgettableotherwise cheapies. Therooms gah The large Sights office Tourist maps andinformationaboutLore Lindu. ( Balai Taman Linduoffice NasionalLore TOURIST INFORMATION most convenient forchanging money. few have ATMs. BNIbankisthebestand Most banksare represented inPalu, anda MONEY UmumPropinsi Undata Sakit Rumah MEDICAL SERVICES Telkom office postoffice Main Internet Golden Computer ACCESS,INTERNET POST&TELEPHONE Police station EMERGENCY Information Tanjung Karang. Lore LinduNationalPark orheadingonto part of Sulawesiunlessthey’re trekking in cool. Mosttravellers don’tdetourtothis days are are hot,andthenights tolerably the the driestplacesinIndonesia. Generally Purnama Raya Hotel Purnama Raya Sleeping internet access. 80,000/85,000Rp; 30,000/40,000Rp) independent informationaboutLore LinduNationalPark. brochures andcitymaps. Itisalsoagoodplacetoget centre. Inconveniently located,butdoeshaveasmallinternet Jl ) Large and reasonably well-equipped hospital. Jl Suharso)Largeandreasonably well-equipped % Hotel Dely Baru Hotel 457623; justoffJlTanjung Forpermits, Manimbayan) ( % CENTRAL SULAWESI••Palu 422290; Jl Sapri 23) 422290; JlSapri Museum Negeri PropinsiSulawesiTen- Negeri Museum ( (Jl Ahmad Yani) (Jl Convenientlylocatedand ( % % Themostmemorable of the (Jl Prof Muhammed Yamin Prof Muhammed (Jl SH161) a 455260; Jl 91)For 455260; JlDewiSartika 421015; JlSamRatulangi) ) Inaquiet neighbour- (

% ( % 421076; Jl Tadulako 17; s/d features interesting (Jl Wahidin) Central Wahidin) (Jl 423646; Jl Wahidin 4;s/d 423646; JlWahidin ( % 421270; and hotwater. class roomscomewithair-con, satellite TV Saleh 1;rfrom218,000Rp; Monginsidi 81;s/dfrom110,000/160,000Rp) downstairs isanattraction. areawith theprice. Theoutdoorseating here are quite smartandtheamenitiesrise See map See p669 formore details. as wellastoSurabaya. timesaweek, several also fliesfromPalu toLuwukandManado cheaper roomsare quite pokey, however. rooms includehotwater andafridge. The named. Allroomshave satellite TV. Deluxe 20,000Rp; from 115,000Rp; Indonesian foodandfresh fruitjuices. for scrumptiouscakes, localburgers, reliable papan; the buna, Kalimantan. East tral Sulawesi. Palu is alsowellconnected to Cen- busridesthrough and uncomfortable Travelling by boatisonewaytoavoid long BOAT NusantaraAirlines; (Merpati papan withBataviaAir There are toMakassar flights andBalik- AIR &Away There Getting Moili. esplanade,JlRaja breezy seafront There are plentyof warungalongthe night Eating cludes tasty seafood and Chinese cuisine. andChinese seafood cludes tasty smarter spotsintown,themenuhere in- 40,000Rp; and the sea, including tasty baked includingtasty fish. the sea, spot isagoodplacetoenjoythebountyof h ending menu,includingpigeon andfrog. restaurantChinese-Indonesian withanever- while investment. The swimmingpoolmakes thisaworth- addresses; theroomsare well-appointed. Hotel Sentral Hotel Palu GoldenHotel Hotel Garden Rama Depot Citra Every thePelni twoweeks, liners Golden Bakery NewOriental Restaurant Marannu Restoran breakfast, lunch&dinner) Lion Air Nggapulu Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) Tidar ( % a

( (Jl Hasanuddin II;mains15,000Rp; (Jl % 428777; Jl Raden Saleh1) 428777; JlRaden (Jl Wahidin) (Jl ) and Large, efficient andaptly Large,efficient and theAgoa Mas to sail ( 422789; fax 422418; Jl Kartini 6;r 422789; fax422418;JlKartini % s (Jl Setia Budi; mains20,000- Setia (Jl ( sail to Balik- sail Kerinci 421126; fax 423230; Jl Raden 421126; fax423230;JlRaden % % Thisfriendlylittle

www.lonelyplanet.com ) Oneof Palu’s top ( Thisisthevenue % (Jl HasanuddinII;mains (Jl 429500; fax429300;Jl 423341; JlMonginsidi) 428888) Oneof the Apopular Therooms . Merpati , Merpati Kam-

www.lonelyplanet.com 0 500 m PALU 0 0.3 miles

To Pantoloan (22km); A B C Poso (165km) D E F

To Donggala (35km); 14 Jl Letjen Parman Tanjung Karang (40km) Teluk Palu Jl Raden Saleh

Jl Letjen Suprapto

1 19 Jl Setia Budi Jl Raja Moili 7

Jl Ahmad Yani

Jl Suharso 9 Jl Diponegoro Jl Karama Jl Sam Ratulangi

Jl MT Haryono 12 Jl Cik Ditiro Jl Tadulako Hashim Sungai 8 Jl Wahid 21 Jl Bantitan Mosque Jl Cokroaminoto Jl Wahidin ὈὈJl Thamrin

Palu Sudirman Jl

Jl Umar Jl 4 2 Pasar 15 Taman 20 Jl ImamBambaru 5 Jl Sisingamangaraja Jl Juanda din II 10 Jl Mawar

Jl Said Idus Aldjufri Bonjol Hasanud17 Jl Datu Pamusu 2 3 Jl WR Supratman

Jl Lindu Jl 18 Jl Gajah Mada Jl Hasanuddin

Jl Gumbasa Jl Pattimura

Palu Plaza Jl Prof. SH (Shopping Centre) ὈὈὈJl Monginsidi ὈὈ

SLEEPING Jl Kartini Jl Palola Jl Bali 3 Hotel Dely Baru...... 12 E2 13 23 INFORMATION Hotel Sentral...... 13 E3 CENTRAL SULAWESI••Palu Jl Tanggo Balai Taman National/Lore Lindu Palu Golden Hotel...... 14 D1 22 Office...... 1 F4 Purnama Raya Hotel...... 15 C2 11 Bank Danamon...... 2 D2 Rama Garden Hotel...... 16 E3 16 Bank Exim...... 3 D2 Jl Kunduri Jl Sapri Jl Lobe BNI Bank...... 4 D2 EATING Jl Woodward Pasar Golden Computer Internet...... 5 C2 Depot Citra...... 17 D2 Pasar Manonda Main Post Office...... 6 F4 Golden Bakery...... 18 D2 25 Masomba Jl Maluku Police Station...... 7 D1 Night Warungs...... 19 C1 Jl Tanjung Satu Post Office...... 8 D2 Restaurant New Oriental...... 20 D2 24 Rumah Sakit Umum Propinsi Restoran Marannu...... 21 E2 Undata (Hospital)...... 9 C1 6 Jl Emmi Saelan imbayan Jl Tanjung Man 4 Telkom...... 10 D2 TRANSPORT 1 Wartel...... (see 13) Lion Air...... (see 14) Merpati...... 22 E3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Pelni...... 23 F3 To Tourist Office (3km);

Museum Negeri Propinsi Sulawesi Terminal Manonda...... 24 A4 Mutiara Airport (7km) 721

Tengah...... 11 B3 Terminal Masomba...... 25 E4

Jl Basuki Rachmat SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI pass through onthewaytoTanjungpass through Karang. gala isaquietbackwater –somewhere to became theregional TodayDong- capital. bours ontheothersideof thebay,andPalu the har-the harboursilted up,shipsused Sulawesi.When town andportinCentral wasbrieflythemostimportant Donggala As theadministrative centre undertheDutch, % DONGGALA &TANJUNG KARANG generally themeters. use are cheap andair-conditioned anddrivers one thatlookslike it’s goingyourway.Taxis are notsignedandare flexible,soflagdown city centre. metered forabout30,000Rpfromthe taxi transport isawkwardtoarrange, sotake a Mutiara Airportis7kmeastof town.Public Around Getting Manonda. (for Tanjung Karang) leave fromTerminal Pantoloan (forPelni boats)andDonggala dotted suburbsof aroundthedistant Palu. from inconvenient buscompany offices minal Masomba. Afew others alsoleave and Manado (24hours) allleave fromTer- (135,000Rp, 19hours)hours), Rantepao toPoso(sixhours), Buses Ampana(eleven BUS &SHARED TAXI 30,000Rp). The Manonda inPalu, or bymetered (about taxi is accessiblebyshared fromTerminal taxi at Pantoloan, 22kmnorthof Palu, which Tarakan boatsdock andNunukan. These Makassar; andthe Kaluku Cottages Kaluku Sleeping &Eating equipment isavailable. are alsorunhere. Divingand snorkelling dives costaround €30andPADI courses . Individual andbeginnerdivers snorkellers reef offPrinceJohn Dive Resortisgoodfor sula), about5km northof Donggala. The water atTanjung Karang (CoralPenin- The mainattractions are and sun,sand Activities 75,000Rp) is efficient; there’sis efficient; anotheratPantoloan. 722 Transport aroundPalu isbybemo. Routes andsharedMinibuses toplaceslike taxis 0457 CENTRAL SULAWESI••Donggala&Tanjung Karang Highly recommended Highly bytravellers, Pelni office (cottages perperson incl meals goes toToli-Toli, goes Kerinci ( % 421696) inPalu -john-diveresort.de; bungalowsinclmeals€30-50) -john-diveresort.de; the beach. of attheendof comfort.Right theroadon make upforthelack and friendlyservice with communalbathrooms,butgoodviews 150,000Rp) take youthe15kmorsofromDonggala. theday.Askthroughout an the coastandfree coconutsare onoffer Tanjung Karang. There isgreat coraloff this friendlyspothasanicerbeach than at from 25,000Rp) Losmen Jungpandang Sleeping &Eating a post officebehind themainmosque,and as thebus/bemo terminal. There isasmall intersection infront of themarket serves ket are adjacenttothemaindock.The Most accommodation,shopsand themar- &Information Orientation toNovember.September andthebesttimetovisitisfrom constant, inthebayarea is heavy Rainfall and serve. and isthegateway toMorowaliNature Re- streets onthestunningTeluk set Tomori, ofKolonedale isasmalltangle long,dusty % KOLONEDALE rectly fromPalu. a vehicle terminal fromDonggala or di- walkoryoucancharter half-hour pleasant terminalDonggala toTanjung Karang it’sa a newerKijangforabout40,000Rp.From forabout30,000Rp,or Corolla toDonggala Alternatively, charter acreaky oldToyota (about6000Rp,30minutes).to Donggala nal Manonda inPalu forthepretty ride Shared leave taxis regularly fromTermi- &Away There Getting when thePalu turnupinnumbers. posse the beach atweekends gets alittlescruffy The bungalowshave but astrikingsetting, ofoff thestart theroadtoTanjung Karang. only dive resort inthePalu area, thisisjust nesian fare. attached restaurant offers simple Indo- are very basicwithshared bathroom.The Pelni office. Telkom office Resort JohnDive Prince Harmoni Cottages 0465 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com The cottages here Thecottages are very basic, Handy for thedock,rooms ( h 24hr) ( % ( % upthehillfrom the 71573; cottagesinclmeals www.lonelyplanet.com 21091; JlYos Sudarso;r ( % 71104; www.prince ojek driver to The Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com are toLuwuk(five buses hours). andPandauke,Baturube fromwhere there at about11pmfortheovernight tripeastto leaverigger boats) themaindockmostdays hours) orKendari. (economy/1st class37,000/119,000Rp,eight onitswaytoLuwuk nedale about onceaweek r 20,000-115,000Rp) and thenwaitforabustoKolonedale. Nuha, rent amotorbike toBeteleme, orjeep Danau Matano by boatfromSoroakoto going asfarPoso. Fromthesouth,cross You mayalsofindaKijanginKolonedale hours),nedale andPoso(eight viaTentena. adaytravel buses Kolo- between Several &Away There Getting www.lonelyplanet.com of Teluk Tomori after Operation Drake, a in1980 onthe northern shoreestablished MOROWALI NATURE RESERVE This 225,000-hectare nature was reserve can bepoor. with plentyof marinelife, butthevisibility mouth of thebay.There are alsocoralreefs fine ‘ sils embeddedin the rock;oddlyshaped outlines of prehistoric handprintsand fos- water fromKolonedalewithfaintpainted a larger boatholdingupto10 people. an outboardmotor),orforabout 300,000Rp, charter with asmall‘Johnson’ (dugoutcanoe for around100,000Rporsoperday, youcan explore thebay,rent aboatfromKolonedale: islands andsurroundinghills.To properly emerald waters, andunbroken forests cover Tomori, where plunge into limestonecliffs beauty of theislandsandinletsaroundTeluk Morowali, sotheymissmuch of thestunning Most visitors to toKolonedale headstraight TELUK TOMORI terminal andmarket. Nature Reserve. wali), sohastopinformationonMorowali group, Sahabat Morowali(Friendsof Moro- It ismanaged bythelocalenvironmental years, makingitthebestall-rounderintown. smarter roomsinthepastfewadded several budget has crashpad,thislittleguesthouse mushroom rock’;tiny fishing villages;andsome The Pelni liner Sights includea Sights There are basicwarungsaroundthebus Sederhana Penginapan beaches onuninhabited islandsat the Formerlyjustanotherbasic Tilongkabila stopsatKolo- Perahu (traditionalout- limestone cliff

( % 21124; JlYosSudarso64; across the

lage, andspendsometimewiththeWana inalocalhometherestay oratanothervil- Poli Kayu Morowali todrop-offpointsfor hikes to trip acrossTeluk Tomori andupSungai inKolonedale. groupbased tal Sederhana, JlYosSudarso64) Sederhana, is advice, andagoodplacetoorganise guides, per day).Agoodsourceof independent must register and buyapermit(20,000Rp KSDA (NationalParks) office–where you your hotel;organise onethrough orvisitthe may approach youinthestreet; oryoucan reach Kolonedale. InKolonedale,guides thewildlife), waituntilyou tosee necessary aguide(whichpendently, andyouneed is tion, forafive- tosix-daytrek. including transport,foodandaccommoda- up perperson (dependingongroupsize), in Tentena ( p717 ) forabout600,000Rpand travelcan beorganised through agencies Treksand back,thegoingistough. visit thepark,plusafew extra toget there atleastfourdaystoproperly You willneed Trekking bat, but dense jungleisoftenbat, butdense allyou’llsee. (wild deer-like pig)andtheworld’stiniest (pygmy buffalo) The parkisrich inwildlife, such as shiftingagriculture.gathering, andthrough people wholive mostlyby huntingand high. vegetatedand densely peaksupto2421m islands inthebay,accessiblelowlandplains species inthearea. includes Thereserve ofBritish-sponsored theendangered survey Friends ofMorowali Friends From Kolonedaleit’satwo-hour boat However, ifyouwanttotravelHowever, inde- Morowali ishometoabout 5000Wana maleo endangered, Thebirds isalocalchicken. One ofSulawesi’s endemic,andmost THE MALEO and food. often collected bylocalsforceremonies ground near hotsprings,but theeggsare The maleolayhuge eggsinnests inthe same characteristics, asanordinarychicken. otherwise itisthe same size, andhasthe and-white crest andanorangebeak, but CENTRAL SULAWESI••Teluk Tomori , a small Wana settlement. Youcan , asmallWanasettlement. (Macrocephalon maleo) , maleobirds,babi rusa ( % , alocalenvironmen- 0465-21125; Penginapan hasablack-

anoa

723 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI mote partof Sulawesi.There’s a and isanexcellentwaytotravel tothisre- (134,000/45,000Rp,11hours),Gorontalo hours)1st class37,000/119,000Rp,eight or links LuwukwithKolonedale(economy/ cottages inclbreakfast 120,000Rp) tages.com; JlLompobattang;rinclbreakfast 100,000Rp, mother of allliving coralreefs’. Boats canbe ongs. Alfred Wallace called the area ‘the viewing base for base Meals are available at35,000Rp. This isthe andthreehouse atmospheric cottages. from town.There are roomsinthemain intheLuwukarea,place tostay about16km p669 formore details. toPalu. map aweek flights and several See bird population. Sulawesi’slargesthome toCentral maleo which is80kmsouthwestof Luwukand Luwuk; andthe henga, the75m-high waterfall 3km westof Nearby attractionsinclude off pointfortheremote Islands. Banggai lated eastern peninsula,andthestepping- Luwuk isthebiggest townonSulawesi’siso- % LUWUK to Kolonedalebyboat. andreturnleave theparkviaSungaiRahu, about five hours Youcan tocrossbycanoe. silent is theeerily people. Westof Kayu Poli(three hours) It’s asuperb area for visit the wild andremote Islands. Banggai a With BANGGAI ISLANDS ( -cruise) Ratulangi 50) Ratulangi Togean Islands. Islandsorliveaboards tothe in theBanggai 724 very important. rooms runto325,000Rpifyouare feeling restaurant attractsabreeze.seaside VIP few hotels. Theroomsare cleanandthe from 75,000/90,000Rp) and Bunta for connectionstoAmpana.and Bunta % Every thePelni week liner Hotel Ramayana Merpati Maleo Cottages Maleo There are toPagimana, alsobuses Poso 0461 /pop48,000 21888; Jl Sungai Musi 3) 21888; JlSungaiMusi CENTRAL SULAWESI••Luwuk soisagoodplacetoarrange diving lot of timeandpatienceyoucan marine lifesuch aswhales anddug- marine Wallacea Dive Cruise Wallacea Dive has daily flights to/fromManado hasdailyflights (Merpati NusantaraAirlines; (Merpati isthebestof thetown’s Bangkiriang Nature Reserve Nature Bangkiriang ( % ( , which takes Danau Rahu % /fax 324068;www.maleo-cot intown. 21502; JlDanauLindu;s/d swimming, isbyfarthebest

Air Terjun Henga- (www.wallacea-dive % Tilongkabila diving and Pelni office 21523; JlSam ,

with the at alocalhomeinanyvillage ifyoucheck modation ontheislands,butyoucanstay Tataba andSalakan.There isstillnoaccom- at Pulau Peleng, withthemainsettlements Maleothrough Cottages nearLuwuk. est toarrange divingandsnorkelling trips chartered frommostvillages, butitiseasi- with Makassar orBitung (forManado). Tataba. ThePelni linerCiremai linksTataba offers ifuninspiring,rooms. comfortable, aroundforalongtime.this placehasbeen It 70,000-115,000Rp; with air-con110,000Rp; Losmen Irama Sleeping &Eating Kartini. market andbusterminal are toJl allclose fromJlHatta.wards thesea Themaindock, tels are along JlKartini, which headsto- Ampana, andiscalledJlHatta. Many ho- through The mainPoso–Luwukroadgoes Orientation the Togeans. cover from,orprepare on for,anassault town andagoodstopover whileyoure- ean Islands,butit’salaid-back, pleasant Ampana istocatch aboatto/fromtheTog - The mainreason fortravellers tocome % AMPANA ing atdusk. peninsula fromAmpana. It’smore interest- tocharteryou need aboataroundtherocky fuelled byaleakof naturalgas.Toget here theburningcoralcliff people cometosee crocodiles, snakes andmaleo,butmost National Park) ishometoanoa, The 4246-hectare Tanjung Fire Api(Cape TANJUNG APINATIONAL PARK boast a seafront setting and friendly service, andfriendly service, setting boast aseafront Perched on avery rocky beach, the cottages include air-con andhotwater. punters happy. Themostexpensive rooms dorms andagood range of rooms keeps the ans, thisisthebest choice intown.Cheap the Kadidiri Paradise ResortintheToge- The largest andmostpopulousislandis There isadailyferry Luwukand between Oasis Hotel Marina Cottages Marina 0464 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com kepala desa ( % ( a % 21055; Jl Kartini; s/d40,000/55,000Rp, 21055; JlKartini; ) 21058; Jl Kartini; dm30,000Rp, r 21058; JlKartini; Runinconjunction with ( a % first. ) 21280; cottages 77,000Rp) Areliable cheapie, www.lonelyplanet.com babi rusa,

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com next toMarina Cottages. Daka leave village, fromajettyinLabuhan of Ampana. BoatstoBombaonPulauBatu at theendof JlYosSudarso, inthemiddle beyond leave from the mainboatterminal Luwuk. andthenanotherto in Ampana,toBunta from theterminal, opposite themaindock (11 hours). Toget toLuwuk,catch abemo Poso (five hours), often continuingtoPalu travel buses each daytoLuwuk. Several Posoand Ampana isontheroadbetween &Away There Getting fish. andbakedA goodplaceforsomecoldbeer alone. for thesunsets Ampana. Therestaurant isworthvisiting minute Bomba. Theyare village, a10- inLabuhan and are inaperfect locationfor boatsto www.lonelyplanet.com riety of wildlife. Theislands’reefs supporta green. Theundisturbedjungleshelters ava- Teluk Tominiisariotof blue,gold and coral andvolcanicislesinthemiddle of fit thebill.Thisarchipelago of beautiful the life of alotuseater, the Togean Islands beaches, plentifulcoralandaplacetolive If youdreamt of anIndonesiawithblissful ISLANDS TOGEAN TOGEAN ISLANDS Boats toPoso,WakaiontheTogeans and Bakar Ikan Makan Rumah Gunung (472m) Colo Tomini Pulau Teluk bendi (horse-drawncart)ridefrom Una Tau Pan Bomba Pulau Pohondongo Batu Daka Pulau Pulau

Pulau Taipi Kadidiri Pulau

(Jl Kartini; mains15,000Rp) Kartini; (Jl Palada Wakai Pulau Kota Bolilangga Pulau Togean Pulau Tomken Katupat To Ampana Pulau (40km) Benteng Langkara Pulau Tongkabu Pulau Malenge Malenge Pulau ecosystem here. There are bungalowresorts years, probablyagoodthingforthefragile slowed thepaceof inrecent development ists thathasaffectedmuch of Sulawesi has the late 1990s,butthedownturnintour- The Togeans were the Information more remote islands. before committingyourselftooneof the for justoneortwoguests,soaskaround visitors. Theymaynotbeinclinedtoopen fewpetual stateof hibernation,astheysee and homestays. and mineralwater are available fromshops soft drinks some snacksandtreats. Beer, local meals.Itisagoodideatobringalong quoted are perperson, andallrates include rustic toprivate andporcelain.Allprices room facilitiesrange fromcommunaland breezes keep cool. Bath- everything the sea have amosquitonetbutnofanbecause wooden cottages, onornearabeach. Most local fisherfolkover the pastdecade. nesia, thecoralhassuffered atthehandsof pated. like However, manypartsof Indo- alotlongerup staying thantheyantici- Togeans andtheirlifestyle –andoften end basic, manytravellers fallinlove withthe are toreach, difficult andthefacilitiesare place are theislands hospitable.Although of orsoethnicgroupssharing theseven this rich diversity of marinelife, andthepeople Talata Pulau Some of are thelocalhomestays inaper- Most of theroomsonislandsare in Koh Taoleh Pulau Walea Pulau Kodi TOGEAN ISLANDS••Information TOGEAN Paotu Dolong Popoli 0 0 Kanari To Gorontalo (110km) Biga in-place tobein Walea Pulau Bahi Selat Walea Liang M ALUK S EA 12 miles

20 km

725 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI locals from Central Sulawesi consideredlocals fromCentral Pendolo orTentena. At the time of writing, Toraja in toAmpana, stoppingthe night to charter aprivate vehicle fromTana (six hours). Many overland travellers opt and travel by roadfromthere toAmpana Togeans istoflyfromManado toLuwuk at leastonce. ended intheloss of avessel(butnolives) vessels tomake the journey,which has lured bytheincome have unsuitable used end upgetting lessthanyoupayfor. Locals own boattoget totheTogeans youcan warnedthatbychartering your them. Be with a smallfee ifyoudon’tend upstaying their accommodationfree of charge, orfor the ferries ateach stopandshuttle youto from resorts andhotels willusuallymeet pana thanfromGorontalo. Representatives fromAm- The Togeans are better serviced &Away There Getting diving allday. occur, particularlywhenpeople are out room, asbreak-ins have knownto been no banksontheislands. Gorontalo. Bringplentyof cash,asthere are athotels inAmpanaand worth askingstaff is obviouslyothertravellers, butit’salso transportandactivitiesabout homestays, are. Thebestsourceof current information lands andnobody knowswhere theyall spreadand homestays theis- throughout 726 One of thequickest waystoget tothe Take care nottoleave valuablesinthe the upmarket WaleaDivethe upmarket Resort and PADI coursesare alsoavailable. bring yourown. natural pearls. speciesoftrepang (seacucumber),andphins, theoccasionalwhale,commerciallyimportant corallobsters,include brightlymarked acolonyofdugong,schoolshundred ormore dol- have sadlybeenbadlydamagedbybombandcyanidefishing. The more conspicuousresidents speedboat (oronehourbynormalboat)fromKadidiri. and mangroves. There WWIIB-24bomberplane,whichisa30-minute isalsoasunken tripby (5km to15kmoffshore), andfringing reefs surround allofthecoasts,merging withtheseagrass ofPulau Barrier reefsnorthwest BatuDaka. surroundmanyislandsatthe200mdepthcontour atoll, barrierandfringing reefs –inonelocation.Twoatollsandtheir deeplagoonslietothe The Togeansare theonlyplaceinIndonesiawhere youcanfindallthree majorreef environments– DIVING &SNORKELLINGAROUNDTHE TOGEANS and TOGEAN ISLANDS••Information TOGEAN Snorkelling The mixofcoralandmarinelife andunusuallydiverse, isspectacular althoughmanyreefs Kadidiri ParadiseKadidiri gearisavailableatmosthomestaysforabout25,000Rp,butit’salwaysbetter to Diving canbearrangedatanumberofplaces,including ( p728) onPulau Kadidiri, ( p729) onPulau fromUS$25perdive WaleaKodi.Pricesstart to berisky. bypublictransportaroundPoso travelling can catch connecting boats (see can catch connecting boats (see above ). five hours eastof Ampana, from where you class, 10 hours, twodays), which every is ferry toPagimana (110,000/65,000Rp A/B at therelevant terminal inGorontalo. Wakai. Tickets are available from theoffice Ampana viaMalenge, Dolong,Katupat and makes thereturn 15-hourtrip(90,000Rp) to Every the Wednesdayevening GORONTALO Marina Cottages, and costabout15,000Rp. leave village, nextto fromajettyinLabuhan for about250,000Rp.Localboatsto Bomba can charter aboatfromWakai toBomba larly atBomba,butdon’tcounton it;you return toAmpana. Allferries stopirregu- hours toWakai,sometimeslonger) then as farWakai(25,000Rp,three tofive (90,000Rp, ninehours fromDolong). toGorontalo ong (onehour);thenthrough from Wakai);Malenge (45minutes); Dol- (45,000Rp, fourhours); Katupat (onehour viaWakai ney fromAmpanatoGorontalo day morningitmakes the15-hourjour- connectionsaroundit.Everyflight Mon- ule often chops andchanges, sodon’tplan butthesched- onceaweek, and Gorontalo The AMPANA Island Retreat The only otheroptionis theovernight Local boatsdepart‘almostdaily’at 10am Puspita ferry travels Ampana between ( opposite ) Black Marlin www.lonelyplanet.com nearBombaand Puspita ferry ( p728)

the village, aboutthecurrent for timetables to Bombaonaspeedboat). erators (250,000RpfromWakaiorKadidiri amongthecartelfairly standard of localop- The rates should benegotiablebutare often toaponderouswoodentrawler.speedboat anything that’savailable, fromanifty boats around.You’lloften have toaccept therements because are simplynotmany more toarrange insmallersettle- difficult Wakai, BombaandKadidiri, butare far ing somethingisagoodwaytoget around. for publicboatsbendandbreak, socharter- swimming andsnorkelling spots.Schedules boats toget there andawaytoreach Regardless of where youneed youstay, transport withintheTogeans isinfrequent. Allow plentyof timetoget around,because Around Getting not abadoptionforsmallgroup. diri (800,000Rp).Itquicklyaddsup,butis four hours) andthencharter toKadi- aboat to Luwuk,charter (500,000Rp, acartoBunta Togeans. Take fromManado amorningflight This isthekey link in thefastest route tothe BUNTA range boatcharters. ( p728 ) andKadidiri Paradise ( p728 Wakai orKadidiri. BothBlackMarlin Dive ) canar- Marisa (about150km westof and Gorontalo) 1,500,000Rp) cancharter between aspeedboat Anyone whoisloadedwithrupiah(about MARISA www.lonelyplanet.com Ask oranyonearound yourhomestay, Charters are nothardtoarrange in rubbish disposal, education programmes and thepolicing of illegal fishing practices. over development andrevenues. activities, The moneycould beusedtofinance conservation now switching tosecure localmarine reserve status,which wouldallowmuch more localcontrol tected marinenational parkover theyears,but thewheelsofbureaucracy turnslowly.Attention is ment, asinitiallypromised. not compensated localfishermen,norprovided grantstopromote localcommunitydevelop- Pulau the coralisreallyand cyanide,in someplaceslike suffering. Kadidiri the Togeansatanalarming rate. Addtothisextreme theuseofexplosives fishing methodslike which arestrophic increase destroyingthecoral around inthenumberofcrown-of-thorns starfish, oftourismsuchasrubbishandsewage.pearl farms,nottomentionby-products The Togean Islandsare pristineandpopular,butare underthreat and fromlocalfishingpractices CONSERVATION OFTHETOGEANS Various groupshave beenlobbyingtheIndonesiangovernment todeclare theTogeansapro- Japanese pearlfarms intheregion have reduced accesstotraditional fishingareas and have The fishingofvaluableNapoleon fish(forforeign Chineserestaurants) hasresulted inacata-

.com; rperpersonUS$10-22) the roomsare pretty basic. easy tospot,asitisbuiltover thewater, but been added. been years. Noelectricity,butbathroomshave proved popularwith travellers over the island, andisafriendlyplacethathas located onapretty beach onitsownlittle and pizzas. Diving good international food,includingMexican viewandattached ablutions. Therea sea is rooms, soitisworththeextramoney tohave The cheaper cottages have shared bath- beach atPasir Putih andhas20cottages. and atorch (flashlight). aguide hills behind Bomba,butyou’llneed better shapeherefewer visitors. anditsees ternative toKadidiri, asthecoralisinmuch Pulau Kadidiri). Bombaisanappealingal- past onthewaytoandfromWakai(for end of theisland,which mosttravellers sail Bomba isatinyoutpostatthesouthwestern Bomba main villages, BombaandWakai. Daka,which ishometothetwo Pulau Batu The largest andmostaccessibleislandis PULAU BATU DAKA is goingwhere andwhen. boats,sotheyalwaysknow what on these ana andGorontalo. Thelocalsrely heavily boats tootherislands,orfurtheronAmp- Poya LisaCottages In thevillage, walktothe It’s apleasant

TOGEAN ISLANDS••Pulau BatuDaka TOGEAN Island Retreat Island Retreat LosmenPoyaLisa

(cottages 80,000-120,000Rp) is availablehere, plus is set onthebeautiful isset (www.togian-island-retreat inthe bat caves

(r 90,000Rp) 727

is

is SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 728 you may never see itagain! see you maynever and Put yourhandinto anyholeinthesand to coconutcrabs thesizeof smallfootballs. home of coral cliffs, you toaseries craggy were. the pastdecadeandaren’t whatthey once damaged bybombandcyanidefishing in the reefs offKadidiri have severely been awordofing beyond.However, caution: only metres fromthedoor;andsuperb div- commodation; snorkelling and swimming perfect stripof agoodrange sand; of ac- a shortboattripfromWakai.It offers a eans, thebeach on Pulau Kadidiri isjust Long considered theplacetobein Tog- PULAU KADIDIRI in thevillage. hikeWakai, isapleasant –askdirections , afew kilometres inlandfrom waterfall well-stockedseveral general stores. Asmall for boatstoPulauKadidiri, butthere are asthe departureWakai ismainlyused point The largest intheTogeans, settlement Wakai ranged fromAmpanaandMarisa. snorkelling gear. Boatch arranged with staff attheresort.arranged There with staff are per day andhikes around theisland can be ling gear canbe rented for about25,000Rp are onoffer. Apart fromdiving, snorkel- in theTogeans, andarange of activities Kadidiri isthemostpopular destination Activities A shortwalkwestof thebeach brings were discriminated againstinEurope. guns. Land-loving Indonesianstend tolookdownontheBajo,inmuchsamewayGypsies concessions tomodernityare gogglesfashionedfromwoodandglass,handmadespear andmanymore40 menwere crippled,inonearea killed, alone. These daystheBajodivers’ only trepang, thelethalnature ofcaissondisease(the bends)wasrarely explainedproperly.Around Chinese tradersintroducedaircompressors toenabletheBajodive longeranddeeperfor the fathersdive babiestointroducethemlife withtheirthree-day-old onthesea. theirplaceintheworld.Whentheyhaveput inacanoeandpushedouttoseamake children, villages onoffshore reefs, buttheitinerantcharacter ofBajoculture stillsurvives. Newlywedsare gatherers whospendmuchoftheirlives onboats,travelling asfamilieswherever theygo. produce, astheyhave doneforhundreds, perhapsthousands,ofyears. The Bajoare hunter- Nomadic Bajo ‘seagypsies’stilldive marine fortrepang, pearlsandothercommerciallyimportant THE BAJO TOGEAN ISLANDS •• Pulau Kadidiri ISLANDS••Pulau Kadidiri TOGEAN The rare intrusionsfromtheoutsideworldcansometimesresult intragedy.WhenBugis and There are several permanent BajosettlementsaroundtheTogeanIslands,andeven somestilt arters canbear- reading. you’lldo alotofis justaswellbecause places have asmallbookexchange, which nearby islands,andforsnorkelling. Many for about 150,000Rpperdaytovisitthe treks aroundPulauUnaandboathire Wakai first (see Wakai first (see p726 ). Hotel representa- Kadidiri, but don’t stop, soyou mustgo to to close tantalisingly The public boatssail &Away There Getting Cottages Black Marlin Sleeping a goodreputation. beachfront balconies. Afriendlyplacewith tions have Western-style bathroomsand bathroom oramandi, whilethepricierop- Thecheapercottages. roomshave shared the twoplaces,this attractive resort has 25 therelin, although isnolove lostbetween stretchOn thesame of beach asBlackMar- with yourdives. so youcanbundleyouraccommodation in andMasterCardrooms. Visa are accepted, smarter cottages includeWestern-style bath- occupy aprimestripof beachfront. The Black Marlin Dive, attractive these cottages forpopularBritish-run diveThe base outfit value. fine stretch of makingitpretty sand, good upgraded itscottages and it occupiesa oldest placesinthearea, ithasrecently 21058; www.kadidiri-paradise.com; rperpersonUS$10-25) 21058; www.kadidiri-paradise.com; www.blackmarlindive.com; cottages85,000-150,000Rp) Pondok Lestari Kadidiri Paradise Resort Paradise Resort Kadidiri Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (cottages 125,000Rp)

(Gorontalo www.lonelyplanet.com

( % in Ampana0464- % Oneof the 0435-831869;

125,000Rp) guests. family are happytoarrange alocaldancefor food andsuperb snorkelling. Thefriendly the way. the volcano,plussnorkelling stopsalong Pulau Kadidiri canorganise guidedtreks up Una. BlackMarlin andKadidiri Paradise on butthereweek, isnowhere onUna tostay around theisland. and admire theawesomelava landscapesall trek tothetopof thevolcano(three hours), daysyoucan safely These evacuated. been Thankfully, UnaUna’spopulationhad animalsandmostofthe houses, thecrops. ered 90%of theisland,destroyingallof first timeinalmost100years. Ash cov- 1983 whenthevolcanoexplodedfor of belt. Pulau UnaUna,which consistsmostly The Togeans are partof anactive volcanic PULAU UNA Kadidiri for about50,000Rponeway. can alsocharter Wakaiand aboatbetween Kadidiri or Wakaiabout theschedules. You Kadidiri in from Wakai;askyourhomestay a boatdelivers fresh water andsupplies to you toKadidiri forfree. Onceortwiceaday tives theferry willusuallymeet andtake www.lonelyplanet.com tablished excellent tablished nongovernmental organisations, have es- the village. Some locals,with theaidof wonderful Malenge isremote with and secluded, PULAU MALENGE ride fromKatupat. Fadhila Cottages twoislandsareThese afive-minute boat BOLILANGGA PULAU TOMKEN& ming, snorkelling anddiving. foranyonesickof swim- some decenthikes the islandthere are magical small market andacoupleof shops.Around very relaxed Katupat village, which hasa onthisislandisthe The mainsettlement PULAU TOGEAN issimilarlygood. on PulauBolilangga accommodation. jetty inKatupat, offers thetraveller simple A publicboatleaves Wakaiabouttwicea Losmen Melati Gunung Colo(472m),wastornapartin Bolilangga Cottages onPulauPangempa offers excellent justoffshore from snorkelling (r 90,000Rp) walking trailsaround the walking NORTH NORTH (cottages from80,000Rp) , neartheboat beaches, and (cottages from (cottages from ful countryside. heat gets too much andexplore thebeauti- background. Make ifthe forthehighlands brooding inthe volcanoes some spectacular beaches around theManado peninsula and baysand the water aswell,with secluded there Strait.However, Lembeh islife above perienced divers, there isthelure of the throw fromthe shore andformore ex- amazing arrayof marinelife justastone’s underwater action.Pulau Bunaken has an North Sulawesi isworldfamousforits SULAWESI NORTH Italian-run snorkelling foundelsewhere. offer thepicturesquedoesn’t beaches and basic, transportislimited, andtheisland ontheisland.Facilitiesonly settlement are Dolong isabusyfishing village, andthe KODI PULAU WALEA Indah tarsiers, hornbills,cuscusand salamanders. credibly diverse fauna,including macaques, mangroves and junglestohelpspotthein- over thewater. per person perday. and three dives fromUS$120 aday,start cuisine),transport meals (includingItalian Package deals,including cottage, three On anislandjustoffWaleaKodi isthe Near thejettyinMalenge village, more sustainablechoicefromthemenu. a sopleasemake to theedgeofextinction, dence thathumansare eatingthesecrabs from agreat height.However, there isevi- and thencarryingthenutupagaintodrop trees tosnipoffcoconuts,removing thehusk storiesofcrabsclimbing dence tosupport legscanspan90cm. large-clawed Mature andtheir crabsweighupto5kg, isolated islands,includingtheTogeans. ation hasreduced stockstoahandfulof oceans, butunsustainablehumanexploit- out thewestern Pacific andeastern Indian oncelived onislandsthrough- arthropods, Coconut crabs,theworld’slargest terrestrial COCONUT CRABS Despite popularmyth,there islittleevi- (cottages 70,000Rp) Walea Dive Resort Resort Walea Dive isattractively situated

(www.walea.com) SULAWESI Malenge Malenge 729

. SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI lished at a meeting oflished atameeting thelinguistically di- A groupof independent states wasestab- History 730 their children tostudy intheNetherlands. eration, andwell-to-do familiesoften send Dutch isstillspoken amongtheoldergen- sula thananywhere inthearchipelago: else influence onthis isolated northernpenin- players. wereGorontalo, political alsoimportant and Minahasa dow, sandwichedbetween groups. Thekingdomsof BolaangMongon- but there are manymore dialectsandsub- region are the and Minahasans Sangirese, be foundamongthelocalMinahasans. and physicalfeatures of Filipinopeoples can peoples andcultures. As aresult, thelang uage providing forthemovement acauseway of group formsabridge tothePhilippines, outside world.TheSangir-Talaud Island a longhistoryof withthe tradeandcontact province ontheisland,and its peoplehave SULAWESI CENTRAL NORTH SULAWESI The Dutch have hadamore enduring The twolargest distinct groupsinthe North Sulawesiisthemostdeveloped Amurang Teluk S ULAWEI NORTH SULAWESI •• History SULAWESI••History NORTH National Park Manado Tua S EA Bunaken Amurang Marine

Semenanjung Minahasa Manado Teluk Pantai Molas Sonder Lahendong Bunaken Tara Pulau Gua Jepang Gunung (1580m) Marisa Lokon Manado Tilamuta Mantehage Siladen Pulau Nain Kiawa Pulau Pulau Linow Danau Pulau Gangga Tomohon Kawangkoan Ulindano ὈὈ ὈὈ Danau Limboto Pinabetengan Sumalata Langowan Tondano Remboken Gunung (2022m) Isimu Klabat Talise Pulau Airmadidi Tondano Gorontalo S ULAWEI Danau Bangka Likupang Batuputih Selat Bilungala Kwandang Limboto Girian 0 0 Suwawa Nature Reserve M ALUK Bangka National Park Dua Saudara Bitung Bogani Nani Pulau Wartabone Tangkoko- Batuangas Lembeh Taludaa S EA Selat Lembeh Pulau jobs and positions in thecolonial army. vantage in thecompetition forgovernment ad- in Dutch, hadanearly the Minahasans theschool curriculum wastaught Because wasalmost completeMinahasans by1860. conversion1820s, andthewholesale of the of theNetherlands’. was often referred toasthe‘12th province thatthenorth becameso close eventually until 1870,the Dutch andMinahasans not actuallycome underdirect Dutch rule often lessthancordial, andtheregion did years. ofstart Dutch dominationforthenext300 a treaty chiefsthe withtheMinahasan saw occupied PulauSangirand,twoyears later, from SouthSulawesi.In1677the Dutch nate (Northern Maluku) andBugistraders had stronglinkswiththesultanate of Ter- peans inthe16thcentury,North Sulawesi (near Kawangkoan). a stonenowknownasWatuPinabetengan verse peoples aroundAD670at Minahasan Doloduo 12 miles 20 km Gunung Ambang Christianity became aforceintheearly relationsAlthough withtheDutch were At thetimeof thefirst withEuro- contact Reserve Kotamobagu Dumoga Sungai Ὀ See Enlargement Ambang (1780m) Gunung Manado Belang Danau Mooat 0 0 Makalehi Pulau www.lonelyplanet.com M ALUKSE Islands Sangir Bitung Tahuna Sangir Pulau Besar Pulau Pulau Biaro Tahulandang Siau Pulau Naha 80 km 50 miles Talaud Islands To Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com good placefortravelinformation. intheTogeanIslands. A onPulauBlack Marlin Kadidiri adjacent totheMelati Hotel. NaniWartabone ofstatue himinLapangan an anti-Dutch guerrilla,andthere isalarge feel. lawesi andstillretains alanguidcolonial inSu- Dutchof houses thebest-preserved is super-friendly. Thetownfeatures some toknoweach otherand everyoneseems grown countrytown,where allthelocals The portof hasthefeel ofGorontalo anover- % GORONTALO www.lonelyplanet.com Hotel Saronde Hotel Sleeping area with Diving isnowavailable inthe Gorontalo Activities available. W@rsinet Telkom office BNI bank Black Marlin Bank Danamon landmark. office isauseful confusion.Themain post which cancause Many streets are ambiguouslynamed, concentrated inasmallcentraldistrict. shops andotherlife-support systems are spreadAlthough out,mostof thehotels, &Information Orientation Islands. if stuckwaiting for aboattotheTogean April. It’sagood waytopasssometime fromNovemberbut itisonlyseasonal to 55,000/88,000Rp, r with air-con & satellite TV 132,000Rp; 55,000/88,000Rp, rwithair-con &satellite TV ATM andcurrency exchange. plus cashadvances. mid-1961. and therebellion wasfinallyputdownin Rebel leaders retreated intothemountains, sian troopshadlandedinNorthSulawesi. in February 1958,and, byJune,Indone- nesian government then bombedManado of NorthSulawesiinJune1957.TheIndo- ers declared theirownautonomousstate after independence.lead- TheMinahasan an issuefortheIndonesiangovernment Gorontalo’s local hero is , localheroisNaniWartabone, Gorontalo’s The Minahasan sense of identitybecame sense The Minahasan 0435 /pop150,000 (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Jend Ahmad Yani) (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlJend (Jl Jend AhmadYani Jend (Jl 14A)Internetaccess Miguel’s Diving Miguel’s ( (Jl Parman; (Jl % ( (Jl Jend AhmadYani) Jend (Jl ATM machines, % 831869; Jl Kasuari 9A)Theofficefor 831869; JlKasuari 821735; Jl Walanda Maramis 17; s/d 821735; JlWalanda Maramis

h

(www.miguelsdiving.com) 24hr) Efficient. , Jl Gajah Mada 33;r60,000-140,000Rp; Mada Jl Gajah hot water. and location. Allroomshave satellite TV smartest hotels intownwithagoodcentral once a week for a similar price, as well as to fora similarprice, as wellasto once aweek Yani 26;s/dfrom181,500/203,500Rp; Makassar! town. Save the nightlife untilManado or many karaoke cafésthathave sprung upin a (Jl Tribata 37;meals10,000-20,000Rp) Tribata (Jl around themarket ortryitat at night, chilli andlime. You’llfinditatthestalls a cornsoupwithgrated coconut,fish, salt, The localdelicacyis Eating &Drinking pati You can travel to/from Manado with AIR &Away There Getting both onJlParman. either theSantikaorCitrasupermarkets, by boat,stockuponlife’s necessitiesat fried chicken. reliable Indofavourites like Viva ishandytosomehotels, andturnsout this sideof Manado. offor thebestselection cakes andpastries Rumah Makan onJlHasanuddin Brantas cheapselling food. andtasty marketnight has avastnumberof warung ery wellknownforitslocalcuisine. The furnished. are aroundapretty set gardenandare well are basicbutatmospheric;thenewerrooms father). Theroomsintheoriginalhouse master (current ownerPak Alex’sgrand- in theearly1900sforthenharbour- aroundalovelyIt’s based oldhome,built welcome totravellers formanyyears now. friendly Melati extending hasbeen awarm pensive rooms. thesmarter, morenewer winghouses ex- traveluseful informationin the foyer. The this hotel isgreat value,andoffers some Air three timesaweek. which hasservices Sasando Cafe If headingdirectly totheTogean Islands Just off JlGajah Mada, RumahMakan If you’re craving treat, asweet head to Yulia Hotel Hotel Melati ) ( JustacrossthefieldfromMelati, % (Merpati Nusantara Airlines; (Merpati 830035; Jl Rachmat 15) 830035; JlRachmat NORTH SULAWESI••Gorontalo NORTH ( %

( % (Jl Panjaitan) (Jl 828395; fax 823065; Jl Jend Ahmad 828395; fax823065;JlJend 822934; [email protected]; milu siram, which is flies to Gorontalo flies toGorontalo % isoneof the , ano-frills eat- 828397; Yulia Hotel) a gado-gado and ai ) Oneof the ) The Mer- Cikia 731 Lion Lion

,

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI nado). ThePelni office with Bitung(forMa-bila linksGorontalo town. See themapon town. See p669 forprices. or tickets atagencies canbebought around sar. Allairlineshave officesattheairport, Makassar. Sriwijaya AiralsofliestoMakas- drop you at the right place.drop you attheright the driver your boat’sdestinationandhe’ll by and Pelni ferries. Bothare easilyaccessible portforPagimanathe Togeans andLeato from thetowncentre: Talumolo portfor has twoports,bothabout4km Gorontalo BOAT & Jl Gajah Mada) & JlGajah 732 Terminal (3km);Benteng Limboto Airport(32km) Otanaha (5km);Danau 4 Lahilote (2km) 1 3 2 GORONTALO

Jl Kartini

Every thePelni twoweeks liner To Pantai mikrolet along JlTantu. (smalltaxi) Tell Sungai

ToMainBus Jl Hasanuddin Jl

18 Bolango SULAWESI••Gorontalo NORTH

Jl Haryono

Ὀ Ὀ Jl Imam Bonjol Pasar 13

Jl Pattimura A Jl Suprapto is efficient and convenient. isefficient

Jl 23 Januari

Jl Parman Malam Jl Budi Utomo Pasar 15 6 Wartabone Lapangan 16 10 Nani Jl Gajah Mada Jl Pertiwi 17 14 8 19 ( %

Jl Walanda Maramis Jl Jend Ahmad Yani Jl Jend Ahmad Yani Jl Panjaitan Jl Nani Wartabone Nani Jl 0 0 1 3 11 7 5 821089; cnr Jl 23 Januari 821089; cnrJl23Januari 9

Jl Thamrin 4 Talumolo Port(4km); 2

Hot Springs(17km)

B Jl Tantu Jl Leato Port(4km) Tilongka- Jl Merdeka Jl Kasuari To Lombongo

Jl Kartini 300 m 0.2 miles

Jl Tribata Jl Rajawali To 12 the , travel agency oryour hotel. through service the airport, book the same taken to yourrequested address. To get to desk insidetheterminal,taxi andyou’llbe 40,000Rp ashare-car canbebooked atthe The airportis32km northof Gorontalo. For Around Getting villages. mikrolet goinalldirections toregional hour. 60,000/75,000Rp, 10hours), departingevery 17 hours) andManado (normal/air-con There are direct toPalu buses (90,000Rp, town, andaccessiblebybemo,bendi orojek. The mainbusterminal is3kmnorthof BUS ( can booktickets attheofficefor the Togeans; see p726 formore You details. andtheTogean Islands. Gorontalo time-consuming) wayof travelling between is amore andregular comfortable (butmore 9.30pm, andarrives atabout6am.Thisferry the nextday.Itleaves bothplacesatabout class 55,000/38,000Rp,10hours) andreturns toPagimanathe gulffromGorontalo (A/B % Pelni...... Mikrolet Terminal...... Merpati ...... (see11) Sasando Cafe...... Santika Supermarket...... Rumah MakanViva...... Rumah MakanBrantas...... Citra Supermarket...... Cikia...... Yulia Hotel...... Melati Hotel...... Hotel Saronde...... Nani WartaboneStatue...... W@rsinet...... Telkom...... Post Office...... Hospital...... BNI Bank...... Black MarlinOffice...... Bank Danamon...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION From theterminal, next tothemarket, Direct to boatsalsoconnectGorontalo Every twodaysalarge, ferry stable crosses 831869; Jl Kasuari 9A) 831869; JlKasuari . www.lonelyplanet.com Black Marlin 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 3 2 1 9 8 7 6 5 4 A4 A1 A1 A3 A4 A3 A3 B3 B3 A4 B4 A4 B4 A4 B4 B3 B3 B2 B3

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com 38,000/55,000Rp) nicest restaurant in town. is probably the but Rumah Makan Rose La in town. commodation, andisthe bestall-rounder by 2km southof andaccessible Gorontalo, nal toapathatthefootof thehill. bendi ormikrolet fromthemikrolet termi- are theremains of justthree towers. Take a Dutch whenrelations soured. Todaythere kingsasabastionagainsttheGorontalo by used andsupposedly by thePortuguese . Thefortwasprobably built Otanaha Benteng overlookingLekobalo, DanauLimboto,is On theoutskirtsof onahillat Gorontalo, AROUND GORONTALO www.lonelyplanet.com Ramayana Hotel Sleeping &Eating office Tourist NationalPark office Bogani NaniWartabone money). markets andaBNIbranch (which changes well-stockedtown, andhasseveral super- into JlAhmadYani thecentre through of terminal isJlAdampeDolot.Thisturns The mainroadfromtheBonawang bus &Information Orientation NationalPark.Nani Wartabone andthegatewayGorontalo, tothe Bogani stopoverit’s auseful Manado between and There’scoconut plantations. littletodo,but market towninafertile valleyof towering gondow kingdoms,butisnowaprosperous of powerforthepre-colonial BolaangMon- wasoncetheseat (or‘Kota’) Kotamobagu % KOTAMOBAGU front of inGorontalo. thehospital take the mikrolet marked ‘Suwawa’from in walk pastthesprings.Toget tothesprings, the footof a30mwaterfall, which isa3km water. Anicerspotisthe has aswimmingpoolfilledwithhotspring of NationalPark, BoganiNaniWartabone 17km eastof atthewestern Gorontalo, edge of spoken Englishorhandouts. of spoken trekking tips. trekking 5km fromcentralKotamobagu.Permits, mapsandhelpful ( % There aren’t all that manycontenders, isawhitebeach sandy Pantai Lahilote 0434 bendi ormikrolet. 22548; JlAKD)AlongtheroadtoDoloduo,about (Jl AhmadYani (Jl 188)Notmuchin theway Thishotel hasclean, quiet ac- ( % 21188; JlAdampeDolot 50;s/d

Lombongo hotsprings swimming hole

at , Borian) office ( plentyof hornbillsandtarsiers.should see fauna requires patienceandluck,butyou bat onlydiscovered in1992. Findingrare macaque rare floraandfauna,includingblack-crested waters of SungaiDumogaandisahaven for known asDumoga-Bone) isatthehead- it’s mostlyinaccessible. Thepark(formerly valueinNorthSulawesi,but est conservation tional park(193,600hectares) hasthehigh- AboutNATIONAL 50kmwestof thisna- Kotamobagu, PARK BOGANI NANIWARTABONE hours).hours) (eight andGorontalo There are regular toManado buses (three of Monglonai,andaccessiblebymikrolet. kilometres inthevillage fromKotamobagu, The mainBonawangbusterminal isa few &Away There Getting Fourteen years later the famous naturalist so the Dutch redesigned itfrom scratch. In 1844 Manado byearthquakes, waslevelled % MANADO short hike (more forlonger trips). up acompulsory guidefor40,000Rpper the park,where youmust register and pick justinside ranger atKosinggolan, station ask the Then walk about2kmwest(or tamobagu. terminal inKo- to DoloduofromtheSerasi jungle ifyouhave campingequipment. ous optionsforovernight the jauntsthrough from onetoninehours, andthere are vari- trails,lasting villageKosinggolan hasseveral dusk. Thearea aroundtheparkentrance at and spotwildlife whilehikingatdawnand/or in theparkordertoappreciate thescenery yourself private transport,butit’sbesttobase way fromthemainhikingtrails. butthisisalong Limboto, nearGorontalo, can alsoenter thepark,andbuyapermitat trekking mapsandasklotsof questions.You tips,look at decent per visit),pickupuseful At thisofficeyoucanbuypermits(20,000Rp duo, about5kmfromcentralKotamobagu. to Doloduo. NORTH SULAWESI••AroundGorontalo NORTH Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park Visit theBoganiNaniWartabone From thecentralSerasi To Kosinggolan, take aregularTo Kosinggolan, mikrolet with You coulddaytripfromKotamobagu 0431 /pop 500,000 , KijangsgotoManado andbemohead % mikrolet driver tocontinue) tothe 0434-22548; JlAKD) (yaki), andaspeciesof giantfruit , ontheroadtoDolo- bemo terminal 733 (Jl

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI and localshitthe townonweekends. best winingand dining inNorthSulawesi region andislandstothenorth. Itboaststhe which tovisitthesurrounding Minahasan may be,Manado isawell-stocked from base by shoppingmalls. Unattractive it though swallowed and thesuperbcoast hasbeen have succumbedtoaswarm of to theplace. Vestiges of thecolonialperiod was 150years kind agoandtimehasn’tbeen city as‘oneof theprettiest That intheEast’. Alfred Wallacevisited, anddescribedthe 734 European traders toand from the sailing hinter land made Manado astrategic portfor volcanic fromMinahasa’s Rice surpluses History

28 Jl Bethesda Jl 31 4 1 3 2 MANADO 36 Kolongan BeachIndahHotel(5km) Café 17(2km);RumahSakitUmum(4.5km); Wisata Bahari;BahuMall(2km);BaySt To TerminalMalalayang; 29 NORTH SULAWESI •• Manado SULAWESI••Manado NORTH See Enlargement

Manado Jl Sam Ratulangni Sam Jl Teluk

Jl Katamso Jl Piere Tendean 13 32

19 Jl Sam Ratulangi Jl Pramuka AC 16

30

Jl Jl Jl

K 34

Jl Panjaitan Jl

Toar Lum Toar

artini Jl

Karombasan (5km) Agustus 17 Jl

Jl Babe Palar Babe Jl

Walanda

Jl Diponeg Jl Pasar Bersehati To Terminal

o & Jengki

7 ro

Jl Jend Sudirman Jend Jl i

m Mar uut Jl Supratman

9 amis

Jl Tuban 5

6

Jl 14 Februari 14 Jl Sungai B mikrolet

Jl Balai Kota Lasut Arie Jl

Hotel SantikaManado(8km)

Tond

To PantaiMolas(6km); ano

the name rebellions inJava andbeyond,earning them mercenaries putdownanti-Dutch Minahasan colonists continued tointensify. Elsewhere, economic, religious and socialtieswiththe sufferedMinahasans fromthis‘progress’, yet of cheap coffee foraDutch-run monopoly. tion schemes were producinghuge crops By themid-1800s,compulsory cultiva- unite thediverse confederacy.Minahasan ‘Spice Islands’(Maluku). TheDutch helped ists and those favoists and those uring Dutch-s was bitter the national- division between the warof independence thatfollowed,there bombed Manado heavily in1945. During was aperiod of deprivation, andtheAllies Department Store 27 Manado The Japanese occupation of 1942–45 Matahari Teluk

Jl Piere Tendean Jl Martadinata 25 26 2 10 20 18

Jl Korengkeng Jl Jl Sam Ratulangi

Jl Wakeke 8 1 Pasar anjing Belanda(Dutch dogs). 17 35 45

Jl Sarapung Kar Jl 3 33

38

tini Jl Rumambi Jl 21 39 4

40 22 15 Jl Diponego Jl

Jl Walanda Jl Jl Arie Lasut ro

Jl Panjaitan Jl Jl 14 1km 0.5miles 0 0

0 0 Sisinga www.lonelyplanet.com To Race Track

ma Mar

Jl Supratman Jl Sutomo ngaraja amis 11

37 Jl Jend Sudirman Jend Jl

12 Jl D 0.2 miles 23

Yos Sudarso 400 m Jl Sugiono Airport (10km); ponsored Bitung (52km) 24 To Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat&Sun) Mon-Fri, mote Manado’s tradeandtourism. ippines andSingapore, have helpedtopro- port,anddirectsea airlinkswiththePhil- Indo nesian troopsin1958. federalism, andthecitywas bombedby www.lonelyplanet.com Rumah Sakit Umum Sakit Rumah MEDICAL SERVICES postoffice Main Informatics Cybernet Café ACCESSINTERNET &POST Immigration office IMMIGRATION % The emergency numberfor ambulances is EMERGENCY Information shopping malls;ithaslimited access. coastal thoroughfare withhotels andhalf-finished JlPiere‘boulevard’, Tendean, isamonstrous restaurants, hotels andsupermarkets. The running north–south,there are upmarket themainroad Along JlSamRatulangi, Orientation Main policestation Main the 4th floor of the Mega Mall. Mall. the 4thfloorofMega 110; Jl17Agustus) main postoffice. includes adecompression chamber. layang) Thegeneral hospitalis about4.5km fromtown and SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Monument...... Sam Ratulangi SulawesiUtara...... Museum NegeriPropinsi Kienteng BanHianKong.... Telkom...... Office...... North SulawesiTourism Main PostOffice...... Main PoliceStation...... Office...... KSDA (NationalParks) Immigration Office...... Cybernet Café...... (see8) City Square...... BRI Bank...... BII Bank...... BCA...... Today, the development ofToday, thedevelopment Bitung’sdeep 118. ( h ( h (Jl Sam Ratulangi 23; SamRatulangi (Jl 8am-10pm) Fastest accessintown;on 8am-10pm) Internetaccess atthe ( ( % ( % %

863491; Jl17Agustus) inquiries 852162,emergencies inquiries 13 12 11 10 853191; JlMonginsidi; Mala- 6 9 8 7 5 4 3 2 1 A4 D4 D3 C4 B2 C4 A3 B4 B4 C3 C4 C4 C4 DRINKING EATING SLEEPING Gacho...... Seafood Warungs...... Rumah MakanGreenGarden...... Dolphin Donats...... Ritzy Hotel...... Rex Hotel...... New AngkasaHotel...... Manado BersehatiHotel...... Hotel SahidKawanua...... Hotel NewQueen...... Hotel Minahasa...... Hotel CentralManado...... Hotel Anggrek...... Gran PuriHotel...... Celebes Hotel...... Biteya CityHotel...... h 8am-7.30pm advances, andhasanATM. AltoandCirruscardsforcash Accepts Visa,MasterCard, North Sulawesi Tourism Office SulawesiTourism North KSDA office TOURIST INFORMATION Telkom office petitive rates. long-distance Numerous wartel aroundtownoffer com- TELEPHONE BNI bank BII bank BCA airport. plusoutatthealong JlSamRatulangi, money. ATMs canbefoundatthebanks the bestplaceinregion toexchange Manado isoverflowing withbanks,andit’s MONEY Utara the however Most of liebeyond the city, themainsights Sights information counter Tourist advances available at the airport. advances availableattheairport. hotel brochures withcurrent rates. far more useful,withgoodmaps onthewall,andplentyof Nature Reserve, visitthisnational parksoffice. Nature Reserve, inTangkoko-Batuangasadvice abouttrekking DuaSaudara 864296; JlBabePalar) Forinformativebrochures and ATMs available. advances ofupto3,000,000RponVisaandMasterCard. Probably hasthebestrates,andquicklyprovidescash map andsigntheguest book,butthat’saboutit. Diponegoro 111;

bank

29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 ( % (Bank Internasional Indonesia; Jl Sam Ratulangi) (Bank InternasionalIndonesia;JlSamRatulangi) (BankNegaraIndonesia)ATM andcash C4 D3 D3 D4 C4 A3 C4 C4 A4 C3 D4 A2 A2 C4 C4 C3 (Bank Central Asia; Jl Sam Ratulangi) (Bank CentralAsia;JlSamRatulangi) (NationalParks office; 870308; JlSupratman; admission 1000Rp; NORTH SULAWESI••Manado NORTH (Jl Sam Ratulangi; SamRatulangi; (Jl h ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT SHOPPING Terminal Paal2...... Silk Air...... PT VirgoEkspres...... Merpati...... Mandala...... Manado Port...... Lion Air...... (see31) Garuda...... (see 31) Bunaken...... Boats toPulau Boat TicketOffices...... Batavia Air...... (see31) Adam Air...... Mega Mall...... Studio 21Cinema...... Ha Café...... (see31) Museum Negeri Propinsi Sulawesi Negeri Museum 8am-2pm Mon-Sat)You cangeta Out at the airport, thisis Outattheairport, h ( % % 24hr) 862688; fax /fax 852723;Jl 31 30 34 33 32 40 39 38 37 36 35

735

A2 A4 A1 C3 A2 C2 C4 C3 D4 A3 C3 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 55,000-70,000Rp, d65,000-85,000Rp; with captionsinEnglish. itional costumesandhousingimplements, diversion. Itfeatures alarge displayof trad- in February. friendly hotel isnot toofar fromthe action. Traditional horse races Pengucapan Syukur Tai Pei Kongfestival mainfestivals:out forthese loveMinahasans toparty.Watch an excuse Festivals &Events lookingtostrikefor those out. perbowl onthetopfloorof theMega Mall Kawanua for10,000Rp.There isalsoa the can use cape fromthebuzzof For relief heatoranes- fromtheincessant Activities Panjaitan) (Jl h Hotel Rex BUDGET details. ( p739 ) ortheboxed text on p740 beh areathe PulauBunaken entry –see formore or dive resorts intheManado andLem- toPulauBunakenpeople push onthrough dation tosuitall budgets, most although Manado hasagoodrange of accommo- Sleeping place anytimefromJunetoAugust. to thelunarcalendar). festival inFebruary (dates varyaccording restored. Thetemple hostsaspectacular eastern beautifully Indonesiaandhasbeen 736 Kienteng Ban Hian Kong BanHian The 19th-centuryKienteng near Kawangkoan. rockbetengan (DividingStone),acarved ided bythegodMuntuUntuatWatuPina- landsandlanguageswere div- Minahasan their descendantspopulated theregion. recognising eachother,theymarriedand separation, motherandsonmetagain.Not toToar.sea andgave birth After manyyears’ scended fromLumimuut, whorosefromthe The original are saidtohave de- Minahasans IN THEBEGINNING… 8am-3.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noonFri) NORTH SULAWESI •• Manado SULAWESI••Manado NORTH istheoldestBuddhisttemple in ( % swimming poolatHotel Sahid 851136; fax 867706;JlSugiono 3; s A harvest festival that can take festival thatcantake Aharvest Held at Kienteng Ban Hian Kong BanHian HeldatKienteng Second weekofAugust. Second mikrolet, a isapossible ) This small, nonguests Su-

.com; JlRumambi8A;r120,000-230,000Rp; for smarter rooms with TV andbathtub. for smarter roomswithTV It isworthpayingacoupleof bucksextra 120,000Rp; TV from95,000Rp; TV Jl Sudirman20;s/dfrom42,500/67,500Rp,rwithair-con& below andisafine spotforasundowner. restaurant hasgreat viewsover the action shared bathforjust50,000Rp. Therooftop time. There are alsosomebudget roomswith out whentheprice changed atcheck-out we were here anothertraveller wascaught type of roomyouare getting, asthemorning makehowever, sure youare clearaboutthe air-con andhotwater. Awordof warning, All roomsare spotlesslycleanandinclude over4th or5thfloorforbigvistas thewater. ing over theportarea, askforaroomonthe prices may rise. prices mayrise. so swimming poolandspaduringour stay, include hotwater. Workwasunderway ona isnotsatellite, buttherooms garden. TV large air-con aroundaflourishing roomsset family-run hotel sprawlsupthehillside,with Minahasa Hotel MIDRANGE CityHotel Biteya map of Manado. hotel flyerincludesahandypocket-sized VIProomsare larger.self-proclaimed The ing hasabigrange of smallrooms.The build- Jl Sudirman,thisMinahasan-style smart rooms have air-con, hot water and layang busterminal, about 100m away. The to Manado, and isvery handy totheMala- layang, this isaquiet,attractive alternative New Angkasa Hotel New Angkasa can heatup. worth investing intheair-con astherooms todeliver Itis apeacefulsleep. Ratulangi fromJlSam places intown,itisfarenough the best-valuebudgetbedsintown. fan 50,000Rp,withair-confrom75,000Rp; Walter Monginsidi; r160,000Rp; with air-confrom180,000Rp; 199;rwithfanfrom100,000Rp, hotmail.com; JlSamRatulangi rooms. able hotelnearthemuseumwithlarge,well-furnished fan/air-con/ste 55,000/100,000/185,000Rp; Manado BersehatiHotel Manado Hotel Kolongan BeachIndah Hotel Celebes Anggrek Hotel Other reliable budget options: Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a ) Themostcentralof thebudget a (

( % % ( ( % ) ( % Signposted frombustling % 866598; JlSupratman11;rwith 870425; hotelcelebesmdo@yahoo /fax 862559;minahasahotel@ 851970; Jl Kartini 5;r80,000- 851970; JlKartini 864062; JlSugiono10;rwith www.lonelyplanet.com a

( a % ) Thisfriendly, ) 855022; fax857238; ( % Out inMala- a a a /fax 853001;Jl ) Someof ) ) Comfort- Tower- Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com bad valueandhasalarge swimmingpool. ing interior. Popularforconferences, it’snot in the’70sandrates here reflect theage- r fromUS$135; -manado.com; rfrom600,000Rp; Sam Ratulangi 458;s/dfrom450,000/500,000Rp; Sam Ratulangi spot towaitforabus. andtherestaurant isagood satellite TV, www.lonelyplanet.com found around Manado, especially at the Adventurous cuisinecanbeMinahasan Eating Hotel Gran Puri TOP END quest a sea view. quest asea discounted prices.Re- good valueatthese built asaNovotel. Thefour-star roomsare landmarkwasoriginallyThis immense bar.Club isapopularbasement but theroomsare sophisticated. TheGPs hotel inManado. Thelocationisnotgreat, The othercontender forleadingbusiness unwind after of aweek diving. and villas.TheMayana Spaistheplace to indulgent rooms inachoice of bungalows sort intheManado area, KimaBajo offers .thalassa.net). .thalassa.net). Dive (www fortheThalassa Centre the base like aworldawayfromManado. Itisalso Just8kmfromtown,thisplacefeels sea. mangroveswalkway accessthrough tothe ious rooms,alarge swimming pooland Santika chain, thismajor resort hasluxur- rooms andsolidservice. Regularly full,thankstowell-appointed for ‘cleanestmidrange hotel inManado’. fact thatitoncewontheGovernor’s trophy andaheartybreakfast. satellite TV 180,000Rp are agooddealwithair-con, lack hotwater, butthedeluxe roomsfrom a recent makeover. rooms Thestandard the Jeprinda Hotel, thispropertyhashad 264,000Rp; 12;s/dfrom192,000/ .newqueen-manado.com; JlWakeke Jl Piere Tendean; s/dfrom550,000/605,000Rp; langi 33;s/dfrom150,000/170,000Rp; 300,000/350,000Rp; 1;s/dfrom [email protected]; JlSamRatulangi Manado Central Hotel BajoResort Kima Manado Santika Hotel Hotel Ritzy Kawanua Sahid Hotel NewQueen Hotel a as ) Thishotel isvery proudof the (

% as ( % ) The leading boutiquere- Theleading (

855555; www.ritzymanado.com; % ( 822888; www.granpuri.com; Jl 822888; www.granpuri.com; %

) 860999; www.kimabajo.com; 860999; www.kimabajo.com; Thishotel wasbuilt

855551; fax853049;www ( ( % % ( as % 864049; JlSamRatu- 858222; www.santika 867777; sahidkawa a ) Part of the ) Formerly as as ) )

service isswift. service steaks andburgers. are friendlyand Staff andWestern food,such nesian, Chinese as there’s asurprisinglylarge range of Indo- and cakes, indoughnuts butspecialises ite the Green Garden,thisplacepredictably 35,000Rp; fish and cold Bintang. fish andcoldBintang. ofSulawesi, aswellgoodselection fresh from Manado. rollers and it’s popularwithhigh weight is pricedby on stiltsover Seafood thesea. MallBahu isthishuge restaurant built mains 15,000-30,000Rp; (literally, Rat Brand), thegeneric name for (literally, Rat Tikusfable fermented wine,and Cap sago The drinks of choice are Drinking good lunch orsnack. cheap noodle-based disheswhich make a There disappointing. a tad are also lotsof notfreshthe seafood’s butfrozen, which is menu.However, ular foritslengthyseafood restaurantThis Chinese-Indonesian ispop- & dinner) 50,000Rp; ter to choose a stall atasafeter distance. astall tochoose sometimes playonastage here, soitisbet- just southof thetowncentre. Live bands Mall,hind theBahu JlWalter Monginsidi, dinner. if youare inthemarket foradrinkwith able. areThe price,varietyandsunsets unbeat- night. warungsthatkicksoffevery seafood on JlPiere Tendean isanexcellentstretch of and more. Italian fromIndonesian,Chinese, Choose smaller shopping centres have cheap eats. at Mega Mall Mall, andBahu the buteven are courts ontheirupperfloors. those Best are localspecialitiesworthlookingoutfor. tinotuan (cornporridge) andfresh seafood or fry madewith ataste for dean. Get onJlPiere thatopenupatnight stalls Ten- Wisata Bahari Rumah Makan Green Garden Green Makan Rumah Dolphin Donats Bay St Café 17 Bay StCafé There isasimilarstretch of warungsbe- Hidden behind themassive Mega Mall Most of themallshave extensive food r.w. (pronouncedairweh–dog!). Not all serve alcohol, soshop around Not allserve Has someof the best porkribsin h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) NORTH SULAWESI••Manado NORTH lunch &dinner) ayam (chicken), babi (pork) (Jl WolterMonginsidi;mains 20,000- (Jl (meals 10,000-30,000Rp; (Jl Sam Ratulangi 5;meals15,000- SamRatulangi (Jl h aspicystir-rica-rica, breakfast, lunch&dinner) saguer, Right next to theRight Almostoppos-

(Jl Sam Ratulangi; SamRatulangi; (Jl avery quaf- h Bubur lunch 737

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI dance floor. upandmob the drained, thecrowds loosen flasksof TikusOnce thesmuggled Cap are up onWednesdays, FridaysandSaturdays. like anaircrafthangarandonlyreally fills of theMega Mall. Itissovastthat itlooks club intown,thisplaceisonthe top floor to thebill. for five minutes andaddingahefty charge includesittingatyourtable Regular ruses with overpriced drinksandworkinggirls. oke. are These usuallydarkdensof iniquity, costs 25,000Rp. of 25,000Rpormore. Aglassof Bintang times playhere andattractacover charge fromJakartaon Saturdays.Bands some- onlypickinguplatequiet duringtheweek, Styx, thisisahuge sportsbar,butitispretty Ha Café NIGHTCLUBS ask around. concerts andbackroomgigshappening, so They love jazz,andthere are alwayssmall Music isawayof life fortheMinahasans. Entertainment ing upallover town. lar optionforlocalsare thepoolbars open- in theclubs. some drinkshere, rapidly asthepricerises hind theMega Mall. Stickaroundandsink warungsbe- is toheadoneof theseaside Manado. drink Thebestoptionforasunset a DIYcocktail. over ice…withfreshserved fruit juicefor 1 isthestrongest!). Itisbestdiluted and No 2or3,referring toitsstrength (No distilled 738 Studio 21 Cinema CINEMA donesian subtitles. it features recent Western releases withIn- The most sophisticated cinema inManado, probably tohelpsubsidis of are Bintang steepatalmost100,000Rp, pool bars, justsouthof Mega Mall. Pitchers and straight outofand straight NewYorkorLondon. Be very waryofBe placespromotingkara- Gacho As wears theevening on,themostpopu- There aren’t manyoutandbars in Corner Styx NORTH SULAWESI •• Manado SULAWESI••Manado NORTH (Bahu Mall) (Bahu (Jl Piere Tendean)(Jl saguer (Bahu Mall) (Bahu (entry incl 1 drink 50,000Rp) (entry incl1drink . Cap Tikus. Cap issoldasNo1, Even more sophisticated, (Jl Sam Ratulangi; entry17,500Rp) SamRatulangi; (Jl Acoupleof floors above One of thebestof the e thelive band. Theleading

Sudirman 111) and to/fromManadoflights onBouraq,Merpati discounts. often international tickets sell atsubstantial lessattravelslightly agencies, andagencies andJakarta.to/from Balikpapan parture is100,000Rp. tax guane andNaha. the Sangir-Talaud islandstownsof Melan- three toPalu; aweek to and twiceweekly Makassar; three to/fromTernate; perweek aswell to/fromGorontalo, aweek flights Luwuk, andalsoJayapura viaSorong;four Islands. and Tahuna (93,000Rp) inthe Sangir-Talaud the overnight triptoPulauSiau (55,000Rp) tions to Denpasar andJakarta.tions toDenpasar to/from Makassar, connec- with same-day Surabaya. ever, ever, nado; thenearest one isinBitung.How- coast. and otherports alongthesoutheastern Tilongkabila toLuwuk(128,000/372,000Rp) rong (228,000/695,000)andFak Fak; andthe (173,000/517,000Rp); the nate (111,000/317,000Rp) andAmbon and Pantoloan; the (economy/1st class376,000/1,173,000Rp) theUmsini toBalikpapan week: every goes of thePelni liners callbyonceortwice of Bitung,55kmfromManado. Several All Pelni thedeep-waterport boatsuse BOAT listedto pricesforflights below. map parts of Indonesia. See p669 foraguide Manado iswell-connected byairwithother AIR &Away There Getting rong, and once a week to/fromGorontalo.rong, andonceaweek Jakarta,kassar, Ternate Denpasar, andSo- afternoon the formation andpurchasing tickets. 5) isareliable Pelni agent forchecking in- See See p668 aboutinternational fordetails Tickets often fordomestic flights cost Garuda Adam Air Lion Air There isnolonger a Pelni officeinMa- Merpati Batavia Air Every Monday, Wednesdayand Friday Silk Air Ekspres PT Virgo (Garuda Indonesia; (Garuda ( % (Merpati NusantaraAirlines; (Merpati has daily flights toJakarta hasdailyflights and ( % ( % ( 8880022) % 863744) Maria Ratu 8880999) 3864338) fliesdailyto/fromMa- . Theinternational de- ( goes toTer-Lambelu goes % fliesdailyto/from www.lonelyplanet.com % offers dailyflights 858610; Jl Sam Ratulangi 858610; JlSamRatulangi ( Kelimutu toSo- % 877737) 855851) % fliesdaily 842000; Jl makes (2000Rp). runs toBitung(5500Rp)andtheairport of JlMartadinata, variedpublictransport hours).(60,000Rp, eight (17,000Rp)andGorontaloKotamobagu nal Malalayang, very regular goto buses of Manado. FromthefarsouthernTermi- Tondano (5000Rp)andotherplacessouth of gotoTomohon (4000Rp), thecity,buses mikrolet. andthelocal buses nals forlong-distance There are three reasonably orderlytermi- BUS www.lonelyplanet.com check thetinysignonwindow. check thedirection it’sgoinginanddouble- out: lookforthesignontopof thevehicle, ortwo.second They’re nottoohardtowork one withaspare isamatter of seat waitinga side,finding city 75times.Onthebright bumper tobumper,wouldwraparound the thatManado’sIt seems PUBLIC TRANSPORT from theairporttocity(13km). fee of 1500Rp.Fixed-price cost70,000Rp taxis to Pasar 45 orelsewhere inthecity,foraflat where youcanchange toamikrolet Airport gotoTerminal Paal 2(2000Rp), Mikrolet International fromSamRatulangi TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting conditioning canbe a relief ona hotday. around town is1500Rp. Piere Tendean. Thefare for anydestination heading to Terminal Malalayang godown Jl Terminal Paal 2alongJlSudirman. Jengki fish market, butsomegodirectly to fic jamsalongthe way),andpastthePasar Pasarnorth gothrough 45(withafew traf- minal Karombasan. Most mikrolet heading ‘Wanea’ onthewindow signwillgotoTer- with heading southon JlSamRatulangi travel toTernate inNorthern Maluku. Bitung, fourovernight ferries also aweek outsidetheport.From able fromthestalls and AmboninMaluku. Tickets are avail- lands; andtoMangole, Sanana,Tobelo and Lirung,alsointheSangir-Talaud Is- leave Manado dayortwoforTahuna every From Terminal Paal 2,attheeastern end From Terminal Karombasan, 5km south Private circle the cityand theair- taxis Small, slow and uncomfortable boatsSmall, slowanduncomfortable

mikrolet, ifput heading heading Mikrolet Mikrolet

tang beer.tang Italso means someof the resorts mainland when itcomes tothings like Bin- prices on Bunakenmean higher than the from Europe andelsewhere. This tends to around Bunaken are onshort vacations Bunaken village,toMC close Homestay. best beach isactually justtothenorthof connected bypathto Bunaken village. The 30-minute walk,and both beaches are also connecting Pangalisang andLiang,about a side of theisland.There isaconcrete path aroundPantaistay Pangalisang ontheeast rubbish problemmeansthatmany prefer to oped partof theislandfortourism,but ish wells.Pantai Liang is themostdevel- Washing water isdrawnfromsmall,brack- import theirdrinkingwater fromManado. andvillagersland’s development, must scarcity of fresh water haslimited theis- in Bunaken village at thesoutherntip.The a refuse heapovernight. turning thepicturesque tropicalbeach into mounds ofontoPantai thestuff Liang, by thecityandwesterly windsoften sweep as huge amountsof garbage are generated island, butultimately itisproving acurse, fortheIndonesia andisthesupplybase nections withSingapore andmostpartsof blessing asithasanairportoffering con- blessing andacurseforBunaken. It’sa accommodation options. and PulauSiladen,which hassomemore four hours; NainandMantehage islands; fromManado,seen andclimbedinabout Manado), thedormantvolcanothatcanbe Tua), which includes:Manado Tua(Old National Park 75,265-hectare epic. The808-hectare islandispartof the reefs andenjoytheultimate underwater and 3000speciesof fish. Driftalongthe nary, withmore than300typesof coral The marinebiodiversity here isextraordi- divers andsnorkellers aroundtheworld. naken have among earned itcelebritystatus fringing coraloffthesmallislandof Bu- The incredible shapesandcolours of the % PULAU BUNAKEN the meter, sonegotiate before off. setting veryHowever, few drivers are willingtouse Many of thetourists whocometodive Most of PulauBunaken’s residents live The nearbycityof Manado isbotha 0431 NORTH SULAWESI••Pulau Bunaken NORTH (Taman Bunaken Manado Laut Bunaken Manado Tua Marine Tua Marine Manado Bunaken

739 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 740 and US$300toUS$400forPADI courses. Someplacescharge ineurosratherthanUSdollars. lunchandaguide,willcostaboutUS$60fortwodives; US$20forsubsequentdives;transport, andnearbyislands,includingmostequipment,well-maintained equipment.TripsaroundBunaken Divers are atareal scum. advantage,astheycanleave behindanysurface of plasticbagsfloatingby;justasyouthinkhave seenagracefulray,damn,it’sanother bag. Beach GardenandexitatTwoFish. The isthesheernumber onlydisappointment forsnorkellers ascurrents carryyoualongthereef.ling iseffortless, Agoodoptionistoputinnear Lorenso’s paying alittlemore torent somequalityequipment fromoneofthedive centres. The snorkel- be rented forabout 40,000Rpperday,butitisoften frommosthomestaysonBunaken worth are equipmentcan aboat.Well-wornsnorkelling good,accessiblespotsforthosenotchartering Living Colours Froggies Dive Centre Cha Divers Bunaken Divers and anydecentboatmanwillknowwhere you. totake degree turnlessthan100moffshore, plummetingfrom1mto2mdepthsintodarkoblivion. and sharks. The mostaccessiblesite istheflatcoraloffPantai adramatic90- Liang,whichtakes rays, valleys, fullofbrightlycoloured spongesandfish–itisalsocommontoseeturtles, dolphins andaccessible coraldrop-offs, boastssomeoftheworld’smostspectacular Bunaken caves and DIVING &SNORKELLINGAROUND PULAU BUNAKEN For more on diving theLembeh Strait, see p743 . Odyssea Divers Nusantara Diving Centre Murex Lumba Lumba Diving Eco Divers Celebes Divers Barracuda fully inclusive forfive dive daysormore: packages There are alsoseveral onthemainlandandother islandsthatoffer operatorsbasedatresorts Two Fish Divers Sulawesi Dive Quest the south of Manado and liveaboards roving further afield. andliveaboards rovingfurther the southofManado dive centre hasaloyalfollowing. It’sabout 20kmsouthofManado. northeast ofManado. northeast which hasquicklymadeanameforitself. emphasis onapersonaltouch. that operatessmallgroupsandwithnotimelimits. with its own impressive resort on Molas Beach, northeast ofManado. on MolasBeach,northeast with itsown impressive resort Bastiano’s around before committing. community initiatives. This organisation ongrowing. hasalmost20membersandkeeps Manado. has beenaroundawhile. where thecurrent doesthework. Association on short-stay dive tourists fromafar. divetourists on short-stay NORTH SULAWESI •• Diving & Snorkelling Around Pulau Bunaken AroundPulau Bunaken SULAWESI••Diving&Snorkelling NORTH It is worth checking whether companiesare membersofthe checking It isworth The rates fordive touseaqualified centre tripsdovary,butit’sobviously very with important The anddivingsites bestsnorkelling are onmapsinmosthomestaysBunaken, marked There are several reliable dive centres basedonPulau anditispossible toshop Bunaken ( % ( ( 826091; www.murexdive.com) One of the longest-running dive operators in the area, with a resort to 826091; www.murexdive.com) Oneofthelongest-runningdiveoperatorsin thearea, witharesort ( % % % (NSWA; ( 824445; www.eco-divers.com) BasedatthecharmingTasikabout 20kmsouthofManado. 824445; www.eco-divers.com) Resort Ria ( 854279; www.barracuda-diving.com) Based at their own bungalow resort onPantai854279; www.barracuda-diving.com) Basedattheirown bungalowresort Molas, 853566; www.bastianos.com; Pantai onpackages. Liang)CatersmainlytoEuropean divetourists ( ( % ( ( % % % % %

081 24306063;www.livingcoloursdiving.com; Pantai Pangalisang) Oneof the newercentres 826582; www.kudalaut.com) Operating from Italian-run Mapia Resort, about 8kmsouthof Resort, Operating fromItalian-runMapia 826582; www.kudalaut.com) www.divenorthsulawesi.com) 081 24301356; www.bunakenchacha.com; Pantai081 24301356;www.bunakenchacha.com; Pangalisang) Smalldive operatorwiththe 860999; www.odysseadivers.com) Based at the luxurious Kima Bajo Resort on themainland. Bajo Resort Kima 860999; www.odysseadivers.com) Based at theluxurious ( 081 1432805;www.twofishdivers.com; Pantai Pangalisang) PopularEnglish-run operation 3306034; www.bunakendivers.com; Pantai3306034; www.bunakendivers.com; Pangalisang) Australian-runoutfitthat Friendly ( % ( % % 863023; www.sulawesi-dive-quest.com; Pantai Liang)Anotheroperatorconcentrating 863023; www.sulawesi-dive-quest.com; ( 850210; www.divefroggies.com; Pantai Liang)Pioneers ofthe famed lazydive % 826151; www.lumbalumbadiving.com) Promoting personal service, thishomely 826151; www.lumbalumbadiving.com) Promotingpersonalservice, 863988; www.ndcmanado.com) The daddy of dive operators around Bunaken, 863988; www.ndcmanado.com) Thedaddyofdiveoperatorsaround Bunaken, , which promotes conservation activities andlocal activities , whichpromotes conservation Pantai LiangandPantai North SulawesiWatersportsNorth www.lonelyplanet.com

Pangalisang

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com bottom boats and pseudo-submarines. bottom boats andpseudo-submarines. daytrips toBunakenanise onyachts, glass- some of thedive operators andhotels can org- withlesstimeand moreFor those money, BOAT TRIPS Activities boundaries. should bewornwhilewithinthepark tag, erators. Thepermit,in theshapeof aplastic Liang onBunaken tourism op- orthrough national parkheadquarters justoffPantai or 150,000Rpforoneyear,payable atthe National Park. Thefee is50,000Rpperday for visitingBunaken Manado TuaMarine entrance fee system introduced hasbeen policing of anyillegalfishingpractices,an tion, localeducationprogrammes andthe mangroveities, rubbishdisposal, rehabilita- activ- In anattempt tofinanceconservation Information the real moneyismadeonthisisland. prices orturningthemaway.Diving iswhere ther bycharging accommodation higher actively discriminate againstnondivers, ei- (1km) To ManadoTua 1 3 2 PULAU BUNAKEN ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ Living Colours...... Froggies...... Daniel's Homestay...... Cha Cha...... Bunaken Village...... Bastiano's...... Sulawesi DiveQuest...... Bunaken Divers...... (see13) Public BoatStop...... Two Fish...... Seabreeze Resort...... Scubana DiveCottages...... Panorama...... MC Homestay...... Lorenso's BeachGarden...... akHaqatr...... C2 ParkHeadquarters...... Bunaken ManadoTuaMarineNational TRANSPORT SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES AC ὄὄὄ

15 14 13 12 11 10 Banua Alung 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D3 C2 D3 D1 D3 C2 C2 D3 D3 D3 C2 C2 D3 D3 B S ULAWEI Pulau Nain(15km) Montehage (6km); To Pulau Shelf Coral have by thewater. a nicesetting The bigger islander Lorenso, basic bungalows these PANTAI PANGALISANG meals. beyond theset as there isnotmuch available ontheisland some snacksandtreats fromthemainland, tothemainland.Considerbringing cases from thejettyinBunaken village, insome and mostplacesthrowintransfers toand afanandmosquitonet include atleast resorts ortryPulauSiladen. Mostrooms comfort,stickwiththemainlandserious no luxurioushideaways,soifyou want plenty of budget andmidrange resorts, but include three mealsperday.There are tered around Bunaken andall pricesquoted There are more thanadozen resorts scat- Sleeping &Eating .com; bungalows 80,000-120,000Rp) at Bunaken village. and are very totheisland’sbestbeach close from someextraordinary snorkelling sites overlook themangroves, butare onlymetres at The homestays Pantai Pangalisang mostly BeachGarden Lorenso’s Tanjung Parigi ὄ ὄ NORTH SULAWESI••Pulau Bunaken NORTH Pantai Liang 7 1 3 2 12 11 0 0 ὄ ὄ ὄ 5 Bunaken (www.lorenso-bunaken 13 Runby lifelong 6 15 4 9 8 14 10 D Pangalisang Pantai 1 mile To Pulau

Siladen

2 km (1km) 741 SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI person fordiversUS$20,nondiversUS$30) old location. graded. There’s alively beach baratthe the edges, butthecottages will soonbeup- Oldfishiscreakingmain house. around large roomswithshared bathroominthe cottages are very smartandthere are also remember isoldfish, newfish.The 150,000Rp) 30) US$50) local meals. and JapaneseItalian tocomplementthe The menuismore varied thanmost,with atmosphere thanksto justsixbungalows. it issometimesnicknamed, hasanintimate eastern Resort’as tipof theisland,‘TheLast rounder ontheisland. the bathroomsare spotless.Thebest all- chairs drapes,and beds, rattan andBalinese Tasteful furnishings includecoconutwood onahillsideabovebeautifully set thesea. another drawcard. galows are worththeextra. Goodfoodis the bestbeach onBunaken. Thenewerbun- Bunaken village, isjustabove thishomestay tages from€20; cold beers thankstotheOzzie owner. verdant garden,goodbeach access andvery before committing.Attractionsincludea ent typesof bungalowhere, soshoparound sprawling resort, there are quite afew differ- served here, includinggreat fish. served ies are showingtheirage. Hearty mealsare bungalows are abetter choice, asthecheap– means impromptu beach parties are more together on a goodstretch of which sand, at The homestays Pantai Liangare closer PANTAI LIANG small swimmingpoolforacooling dip. bathrooms are andthere adelight a iseven very well-appointed cottages. TheWestern little more cottage. foraseafront aroundagreencottages set garden.Pay a venture inandyou’llfindsome spacious lookmuch fromthepath,butIt doesn’t .com; perperson€25; 742 Nowintwolocations,theeasywayto Resort Seabreeze Cha Two Fish Village Bunaken Daniel’s Homestay MC Homestay Living Colours NORTH SULAWESI •• Pulau Bunaken SULAWESI••Pulau Bunaken NORTH Insplendidisolation onthenorth- Located onthenorthernedge of (www.bunakenchacha.com; perpersonfrom (www.bunakenchacha.com; (www.twofishdivers.com; perpersonUS$15- s i ) Asmall,newplacewith (bungalows perperson100,000- ) (www.bunakenvillage.com; cot- (www.bunakenvillage.com; Thebungalowshere are (www.bunakendivers.com; per(www.bunakendivers.com; (per personfrom100,000Rp) (www.livingcoloursdiving Alarge,

Quest rubbish washesinfromManado. likely. whenthe it’sasorrysight However, sand is scruffy. isscruffy. sand beach southof thejetty,butthisstretch of accessible fromasignposted trailfrom the galows here have commandingviews.It’s aboveup onacliff Liang,thebasicbun- US$120) but alsooffer cottages above thebeach. duringourvisit, forthelowseason closed welcome. feels abitlike thebatcave. Nondivers not beachfront location,buttherestaurant area well-furnished andincludeverandas. Good places onLiang,thebungalowshere are place.Italian-run hopeforan is notasgoodyoumight with balconiesoverlooking thewater. Food resort of hasaseries cottagesandrooms ious stretch of Pantai Liang,thisall-wood will approach you whenyou walkalong the the public boat. not possible today-tripfrom Manado using 7am and 8amdaily(except Sunday),soit’s beaches. Theboatleaves Bunaken between nado tothejetties atLiangorPangalisang or charter something directly fromMa- (near thehuge church) to yourhomestay, from theboatlanding inBunaken village Liang orPangalisang, soyou’llhave towalk normally stopat Siladen. Theboat doesn’t in Manado, forBunaken village andPulau Pasarthe harbour,near Jengki fish market a publicboat(25,000Rp,onehour) leaves Every dayatabout 3pm,exceptSunday, &Away There Getting Homestay Pulau SiladenMartha PULAU SILADEN tive toBunaken. Siladen, itoffers abasicbutfriendly alterna- cated inthefishingvillage innearbyPulau person US$20,nondiversUS$30) indulgent spaanddive centre. nished. Facilities includealagoonpool,an the 15cottages here are sumptuously fur- per person€25-35) Panorama Bastiano’s Scubana Dive Cottages and Froggies Most travellers charter aboat. Boatmen Siladen Resort &Spa Siladen Resort (www.sulawesi-dive-quest.com) A beautifulnewresort on Siladen, Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ( % (per personfrom80,000Rp) ( % Oneof thelongest-running 081 24301356;www.divefroggies.com; 853566; www.bastianos.com; per

(www.siladen.com; rfrom www.lonelyplanet.com Occupyingaser-

(r 80,000Rp) were both Sulawesi Dive Sulawesi Dive Set high Set Lo- Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Tomohon bus,and get out at‘Gereja Pniel’, orVolcano resort,stay catch the Manado– Valley Happy Homestay, FlowerHome- Gunung Lokon volcano. Toget toLokon clusteredstays together at thefootof There are excellentbudget home- several Sleeping fers aculinary adventure. nearby attractions. Tomohon’s market of- fromwhich toexploreideal base themany a possiblealternative toManado, and an city folkonweekends; fortravellers, it’s Gunung Lokonvolcano. It’spopularwith Manado, below withastunning setting Tomohon coolrespite isapleasant, from % TOMOHON for anyboatstomake thecrossing. that conditionsare sometimestoochoppy inmind about 350,000to400,000Rp.Bear to take adozen ormore peoplethatcost one way.Finallythere are bigger boats able areand these around200,000to250,000Rp thatcantake fourtosixpeople speedboats to 150,000Rp.Nextare thesmallcovered ble onchoppy waters. topay100,000 Expect are theoutriggers, aren’t butthese thatsta- onthesizeofvary based theboat.Cheapest around thebeachPrices oryourhomestay. road towardsPasar Jengki; inBunaken, ask Two Fish Divers Lembeh Resort renovated withapooladded.DivingEcoDivers. Kungkungan BayResort real paradise. amention.Elegantbungalows,beautifulpool,clearseas–it’s between here butitdeserves andPulau Bunaken, Gangga IslandResort Divers Lodge Somepopularresorts: and toManadoairport. between them.Packages usuallyincludeaccommodationandmeals,alldives andtransfers from itisnighonimpossibletotravelAll are setintheirownsecludedbays,butwithouttransport Asaround Bunaken. Lembeh’s famegrows,sodothenumberofdive catering resorts tovisitors. ing andnotforbeginners thankstostrongcurrents. Ifitiscoralyouare after, youare better off murky depthsandare muchadmired byunderwater photographers. However, thisismuckdiv- world onourvery ownplanet.Critterscreatures are theweirdandwonderful thatinhabitthe Lembeh hasemerged asthecritter capitalofIndonesia. Fortheuninitiated, welcometoanalien DIVING THE LEMBEH STRAIT Lembeh area. Pulau Lembeh. (see DivingwithMurex p740 ). dive operatorTwoFish (see p740 ). 0431 /pop30,000 ( % ( ( % % 081 24433754;www.diving-on-sulawesi.com)Oneofthemore affordableoptionsinthe

0438-30667; www.lembehresort.com) Expensive Balinese-style resort in a private bayon inaprivate resort ExpensiveBalinese-style 0438-30667; www.lembehresort.com) 081 1432805; www.twofishdivers.com) Affordable new resort, run by the popular Bunaken runbythepopularBunaken 081 1432805;www.twofishdivers.com) Affordablenewresort, ( % (www.divekbr.com) toopenintheLembeh area, ithasrecently been Thefirstresort 082 4313809;www.ganggaisland.com)OK,soit’snotreally Lembeh, butmidway table underthemainhouse.table a centraldiningarea onstilts,plusa pool include hotwater andabalcony.There is galows here were recently renovated and suite is a virtual house in itself. suite isa virtualhouse and thefamily hot water andsatellite TV is more like Rooms comewith ahomestay. road to Uluindano, this three-room hotel rooms withshared bathroom at40,000Rp. ern bathroom.There are alsosomebudget virtual suites withabigbed,sofa andWest- The cottages are great value,asthey are freshly prepared. should beordered inadvanceasallfood is ily enjoypromotinglocalcuisine; meals and includeWestern bathroom.Thefam- anywhere inSulawesi.Theroomsare clean of thebesttraveller informationonoffer This super-friendly hassome homestay Tomohon, ontheroad toSonder. to showtheirage. It’s about4kmsouthof lows here are wellequipped butbeginning garden withaswimming pool,thebunga- 110,000Rp; a signpointingtoLokonValley Homestay. a few kilometres before Tomohon. There is 85,000Rp) Volcano Resort Kawanua Cottages Kawanua Happy FlowerHomestay Hotel Wawo Hotel Lokon Valley Homestay Set inapretty garden,thebun- Set s NORTH SULAWESI••Tomohon NORTH ) Set aroundanimmaculate Set ( % ( 352449; r165,000Rp) % ( 352988; cottages85,000Rp) %

( % 352060; cottagesfrom ( % 354262; r80,000Rp) 352780; cottages Onthe 743

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI .net.id; rfromUS$58,chaletsUS$84) available. here are hideaway.Discounts like aBalinese beautifully manicured gardens,thechalets town, especiallyatTomohon’s market. are plentyof simple restaurants opentothepublic,andthere full. Someof thehotels inTomohon have backtoManado butbuses taurant, are often to Tomohon willdropyouoffatany res- ThebusfromManadoIndonesian staples. views,withgreat plus spectacular seafood tor DinasGunungBerapi; AROUND TOMOHON opposite themikrolet terminal. lineup able, butexpensive, Thetaxis taxi. is tocharter amikrolet, oramore comfort- inquicktime localsights a goodwaytosee to Tondanoandvariousothertowns. gotoManado,road, buses and alongthemain abandoned petrolstation terminal aroundan inTomohon, based minal Karombasan inManado. Fromthe Tomohon (4000Rp,40minutes) fromTer- Mikrolet regularly andminibuses travel to &Around There Getting (meals 15,000-45,000Rp) fore Tomohon. Thefoodat looking Manado, justafew kilometres be- in astringof over- restaurants onacliff extraordinarycuisineisserved Minahasa’s Eating 744 the area, report tothe Tomohon. climbinganyvolcanoin Before reach (andanother hourtothepeak)from ing hues,which takes about three hours to simmering craterconstantly lake of vary- Lokon Gunung and hotwater. bungalows. Amenitiesincludesatellite TV all-wooden resort of hasahealthyselection Tomohon neartheroadtoManado, this guests. range this,and other hikes inthe area, for Valley in Tomohon Homestay canhelp ar- lar photographs of Lokon othervolcanoes. about the hike, anditalso hasspectacu- in Tomohon. Thecentre can provide advice .info; rfromUS$20) There are afew Retreat Gardenia Highland Resort Highland NORTH SULAWESI••AroundTomohon NORTH (1580m) contains avolcano (1580m)contains Located about5kmoutside

( % isasimpressive asthe % bendi aroundtown,but ( % rumah makan around 353333; www.highlandresort 351076; Jl Kakashashen Tiga) 351076; JlKakashashen volcanology centre 353333; gardenia@indosat Pemandangan Anoasisin mikrolet go

(Kan-

the crater behind thepolice atthetop starts peak onthepeninsula. The obvious pathto Gunung Klabat (2022m)iseasily thehighest GUNUNG KLABAT Tondano andBitung. are Airmadidiand connectionsbetween nal Paal 2inManado (3000Rp),andthere the Airmadidimikrolet terminal. a15-minute walkfrom Airmadidi Bawah, dered. There’s agroupof tombs at these and porcelain,butmosthave plun- been articles,gold position,withhousehold foetal stoneboxes,were carved ina placedinthese tombs pre-Christian heaven, shewasforcedtoremain onearth. ing tooneof theangels –unabletoreturn to instealing succeeded adressmortal belong- moon tobatheandfrolichere. a Onenight flew downfromheaven of onnights thefull hasitthatnineangels eral springs.Legend Airmadidi (Boiling Water) isthesite of min- AIRMADIDI catch another from Tomohon (2000Rp).FromTondano, in Manado, oryoucanget there by lage (5500Rp)fromTerminal Karombasan fish is,naturally,thespeciality. along theroadaroundlake, where fresh There are decentrestaurants alsoseveral lake andsomegardens towanderaround. pool, awonderfulrestaurant overlooking the lake, Remboken village, alongtheroadaround who flockhere forSundaylunch. Justbefore and ispopularwithManado’s upperclass, above It’s a beautifularea level. sea for This lake, 30kmsouthof Manado, is600m DANAU TONDANO Tondano, but you’ll need toaskdirections.Tondano, butyou’llneed Linow, youcanalsohike (8km)toDanau and walk(1.5km)tothelake. FromDanau a ishometoextensivethe light, birdlife. Take sulphurous lake that changes colours with by plore fromTomohon, andallare access ible around thelake. get offanywhere youlike alongtheroad mikrolet Mikrolet toAirmadidileave fromTermi- Airmadidi’s real attractionistheoddlittle Mikrolet regularly leave forTondanovil- There are numerousotherplacestoex- mikrolet. has a swimming hasaswimming Objek WisataRemboken Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com toSonder,get offatLahendong Danau Linow,asmall,highly mikrolet knownas www.lonelyplanet.com toRemboken, and . Corpses waruga. Corpses mikrolet , hiking

in thetowncentre andneartheport. r from120,000Rp) greet thePelni liners. docks, asplentyof pickpockets turnupto vigilantaroundthe overnight.to stay Be boat earlyinthemorningitmaybeprudent Manado, toleave butifyouneed Bitungby boat inBitung,there going to willbebuses for Manado orbeyondassoonpossible. town isunattractive, somosttravellers make factor the ies. Despite setting, itsspectacular chief regional port,andhometomany Sheltered byPulauLembeh, Bitung isthe % BITUNG captureevaded forsolong. howthey ’60s,andit’seasy tosee and early the anti-Indonesianrebels inthelate 1950s hikers. Thisarea wasthelasthideoutfor can besurprisinglycrowdedwithlocal Try toavoid Sunday,whenthemountain Your guideshouldbeable toprovide atent. pendous viewsacrossthewholepeninsula. and bethere andthe stu- forthesunrise hike.flora andfauna,butit’satough rainforestthrough wheresuperb youcansee hours tothetop,twofordescent)goes ter andtake aguide. Theclimb(about four atAirmadidi,wherestation youmustregis- www.lonelyplanet.com surfaced racetrackalongwhich Bitung isconnected toothertownsbya &Away There Getting water, TV andair-con.water, TV over theyears. Theclean roomsincludehot readers whohave strandedinBitung been Hotel Nalendra Hotel Regardless of whattimeyouarrive by It’s besttocampovernight nearthetop There are plentyof basic and the Philippines. high-pitched singing.what sounds like They are foundonlyin some rainforests ofIndonesia anomalies tocatchsmallinsects. Tarsiers live ingroupsofup toeight,andcommunicate with legs, which theyusetojump distances10times theirbodylength. They usetheiranatomical also have hugesensitive ears,which canberetracted long andunfurled,disproportionately heads canberotated nearly360degrees sotheirrangeofvisionisn’tcompromised. Tarsiers thattheycannotrotatetheir stomachs,so big infact themwithintheirsockets. Luckily their known asa tarsier. These creatures are recognisable bytheir eyes,whichare literally larger than tional Park, primate backat you: atinynocturnal youreyes peeled forsomethinglooking keep If you’re visitingSulawesi’sTangkoko-Batuangas DuaSaudara Nature orLore Reserve Lindu Na- TARSIERS 0438 /pop137,000 has been recommended hasbeen by

( %

32072; JlSamuelLanguyu5A; rumah makan mikrolet

and the ung. Theportisinthemiddleof Bitung, utes) totownortheport. you have tocatch another Mapalus, justoutsideBitung,fromwhere one hour).Thedriver stops atTerminal from Terminal Paal 2inManado (5500Rp, records. Allsortsof vehicles leave regularly drivers often attempt tobreak landspeed complex. Palar) (National Parks office; nesting groundsof maleo. The the preserved trips tonearbyislandssee (about 6kmeach) toviewwildlife, andboat to leadyoualongdesignated hikingtrails office canorganise knowledgeable guides which costs20,000Rp. Thein Batuputih, from theKSDA(NationalParks) fieldoffice ment bylocalcommunities. of theparkare fallingvictimtoencroach- socks, andtake covered Sadly,parts shoes. ways wearlongtrousers,tucked intothick ously scratching fordaysafterwards. Al- gonones, which bite andleave victimsfuri- is alsohometoaplethoraof midges, called and rare typesof rainforest flora. Tangkoko red-knobbed hornbills,amongother fauna, cus andtarsiers, maleo birds andendemic hectares are hometoblackmacaques,cus- offshore. About 30kmfromBitung,the8800 includes somecoastlineandcoralgardens accessible natureinIndonesia,and reserves Tangkoko isoneof themostimpressive and SAUDARA NATURE RESERVE TANGKOKO-BATUANGAS DUA to Tangkoko. mation, andworthvisitingbefore heading See See p738 aboutboatstoBit- fordetails To entera permit thepark,youneed inManado isagoodsource of infor- Pelni office NORTH SULAWESI••Bitung NORTH % 0431-862688; fax864296;JlBabe ( % 35818) mikrolet (10min- isintheport KSDA office 745

SULAWESI SULAWESI SULAWESI 746 Tahuna. Girian andcatch a Manado, take abustoBitung,get offat here.sand available andthere isabeautiful stretch of it easy.Boattripstothenationalparkare waters, gobird-watching, hike orjusttake toexplorebase theregion, dive intopristine of theTangkoko natureisanidyllic reserve, can stay at can stay Pulau Salibabu. the othermajor isLirungon settlement of thegroupisTahuna on Sangir Besar; long, SalibabuandKaburuang. Thecapital islands intheTalaud groupare Karake- andSiau;themaingroup are SangirBesar habited. ThemainislandsintheSangir There are 77islands,of which 56are in- canic islandgroupsof SangirandTalaud. and thesouthernPhilippines are thevol- IndonesiaStrewn between acrossthesea % SANGIR-TALAUD ISLANDS waterfalls toexplore; and some superb several forts beaches; afew crumbling Portuguese The islandsoffer dozensof unspoiltsandy Sights the islands are noteasytoreach. But like mostwonderfullypristine places, ing sand beach.sand have atent, youcancamponthe black- incl mealsfrom€27/35) s/dbungalows 838185; www.pulisanresort-sulawesi.com; .com; rinclmeals100,000Rp) is probably villagebasic losmeninBatuputih –thebest thewildlife.times tosee There are several hike atdawnand/or dusk–easilythebest in,ornear,theparksoyoucanstaying with yourowntransport,butit’sworth park. around Manado alsorundaytripstothe Some of thedive centres andhotels inand The main entrance is at Batuputih. From The mainentranceisatBatuputih. There’s a The You couldtake adaytripfromManado 0432 and NORTH SULAWESI••Sangir-TalaudNORTH Islands PulisanJungleBeachResort volcanoes toclimb;many caves and (bringyourown gear). snorkelling Ranger Homestay Ranger tourist office tourist Mama Roos Mama , located justtothenorth mikrolet . Insidetheparkyou (mamaroos@eudoramail ( %

(r 75,000Rp) to Batuputih. toBatuputih. 22219; JlTona) ( % . Ifyou 0431- div- in ; in Tahuna. of decentrooms,plusthebestrestaurant 16; Tahuna; rwithfan/air-con60,000/90,000Rp; inaprettyestablishment village. nearby Tamoko, thisisa simple,friendly south alongthecoastfromTahuna in Makaampo) Maria afternoon theRatu Manado. theportin Book attheboatofficesnear Tahuna (11hours), oneortwodays. every and Lirung(15hours), often stoppingin Agape Star, options, such asthe are farmore thantheother comfortable Pelni twoweeks. Lirung onceevery boats Pelni linerTilongkabila stopsatTahuna and the way.FromBitung(nearManado), the ofthe stunningset volcanicislandsalong Travelling byboatwillgive youalookat BOAT office Merpati near LirungintheTalaud group.There’s a huna; andontoMelanguane, which is to Naha,which isabout20kmfrom Ta- MerpatiTwice aweek, fliesfromManado AIR &Away There Getting also hasthedecentDeniestCoffee Shop. smartest placeanywhere ontheislands.It Losmen Rainbow Sleeping &Eating 45,500Rp) and high windofhigh October toApril. outsidetheport. from thestalls for Tahuna andLirung.Tickets are available boats leavecomfortable dayortwo every Siau (55,000Rp)and Tahuna (93,000Rp). makes theovernight tripfromManado to too much luxuryorprivacy. 90,000/120,000Rp; huna; s/dwithfan50,000/75,000Rp,air-confrom Hotel Victory Veronica Victory Hotel Hotel Nasional Hotel Every Monday,WednesdayandFriday Chindy Penginapan The seas canget quiteduringthe The seas rough Also fromManado, small,slowandun- Sederhana Penginapan Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com are bothonLirung,butdon’texpect inTahuna. which sail between Manado whichbetween sail

(Merpati NusantaraAirlines; (Merpati a (r 55,000Rp) ( % ) Head here forarange (s/d around30,000/45,500Rp) 21185; Jl Makaampo 58;Ta-21185; JlMakaampo Pulo Teratai andthe

( www.lonelyplanet.com % Located further 21494; Jl Raramenusa 21494; JlRaramenusa (s/d around30,000/ ( % 0431-855851) % a 21037; Jl ) The

www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright thetermsand conditionsonour siteforalongerway ofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake

© LonelyPlanetPublications 747