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SULAWESI Thing Else © Lonely Planet Publications 666 www.lonelyplanet.com SULAWESI 667 SULAWESI SULAWESI 0 200 km S u l a w e s i SULAWESI 0 120 miles SULAWESI SULAWESI Kawio Islands Pulau Talaud Melanguane Lirung The first thing everyone notices about Sulawesi is its strange shape. There must have been Tahuna some serious tectonic action in this region to produce an island so bizarre. But bizarre is beauti- Pulau Sangir-Talaud Sangir Islands ful and in its contortions are its character, with an incredible diversity of people, cultures and S U L A W E S I S E A landscapes spread across its length and breadth. Great seafarers like the Minahasans and the Pulau Siau Bugis helped to shape modern Indonesia as they took to the seas in trade and conflict, but it Pulau is the land-locked cultures of the island that are most mysterious. Tana Toraja is spellbinding, Tahulandang Pulau Pulau Biaro home to a proud people hemmed in by magnificent mountains on all sides. The scenery of Bunaken volcanoes and rice fields is stunning. However, the Toraja’s elaborate death rituals are some- Pulau Bangka Manado KALIMANTAN Bitung thing else. Cave graves, tau tau (carved wooden effigies of the dead), a buffalo cult, houses Pulau Mayu Buol Tondano NORTH Tomohon shaped like boats and the dead treated like the living – a visit here is out of this world. Toli-Toli SULAWESI Pulau Tifore Kwandang Danau Selat Limboto Limboto Kotamobagu Known to the Portuguese as the Celebes, the island’s most popular overland route is Makas- Makassar Tomini Tilamuta M A L U K U Doloduo sar–Tana Toraja–Danau Poso–Togean Islands–Manado–Bunaken, and there are also plenty of Gorontalo S E A rewarding side trips to be made throughout the region. Sulawesi is full of natural attractions. Equator Equator Togean The leading national parks see few visitors and include such diverse draws as ancient megaliths Teluk Islands Pantoloan Tomini in Lore Lindu and bug-eyed tarsiers in Tangkoko. However, it is the waters of Sulawesi that Donggala Pagimana harbour its real treasures. Just offshore is some of the best diving and snorkelling in Indonesia, Ampana Pasangkayu Palu Luwuk if not the world. Pulau Bunaken and the Lembeh Strait take top billing, but for those prepared Tataba CENTRAL Batui SULAWESI Salakan to venture off the trail, there are the beautiful beaches of the laid-back Togean Islands in Pulau Poso Banggai Pulau Tentena Pandauke Pulau Mangole Gimpu Baturube Peleng Central Sulawesi and the incredible Wakatobi Marine National Park in the far southeast. Karosa Danau Poso Kolonedale Banggai Pulau Pulau Pendolo Teluk Islands Taliabu Danau Tolo Sanana SOUTH Matano SULAWESI Wotu Pulau Bunaken HIGHLIGHTS Tana Toraja Saroako Mamuju Danau Rantepao Mamasa Towuti MALUKU Snorkelling or diving into some of Asia’s most Palopo Latowu Makale dramatic drop-offs around the island hideaway Pulau Polewali Buru of Pulau Bunaken ( p739 ) SOUTHEAST Pulau Majene Enrekang SULAWESI Manui Siwa Experiencing life after death in Tana Toraja Togean Islands Teluk Bone Kendari Pare Pare ( p687 ) by joining one of the elaborate funeral Pulau Sengkang Wowoni Danau Kolaka ceremonies Tempe Watampone Letting time pass you by on the pristine B A N D A S E A Buapinang beaches of the Togean Islands ( p725 ), an island Kembara Raha Maros Pulau Muna Pulau paradise Malino Buton Makassar Pulau Kabaena Tukangbesi Sampling the finest seafood in the mighty Bau Bau Tana Toraja Islands metropolis of Makassar (p671 ), then hitting the Pantai Bira town for the biggest night this side of Java Pulau Benteng Selayar Enjoying life in the slow lane aboard a Pelni Taka Bone Rate liner on an east-coast cruise ( p679 ) from Islands Makassar Makassar to Manado Taka Bone Rate Marine Bone Rate National Park F L O R E S S E A Islands POPULATION: 15.5 MILLION LAND AREA: 202,000 SQ KM HIGHEST PEAK: GUNUNG Bone Rate RANTEMARIO (3440M) 668 SULAWESI •• History www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com SULAWESI •• Sulawesi Airfares 669 SULAWESI SULAWESI HISTORY Tragically, the Poso region in Central SULAWESI AIRFARES The interior of the island provided a refuge Sula wesi fell into a cycle of inter-communal for some of Indonesia’s earliest inhabitants, violence in 1998 and troubles linger on Lowest available one-way airfares in '000Rp, unless otherwise indicated. SULAWESI SULAWESI some of whom preserved elements of their today. The situation in the region remains Quoted fares were correct at the time rich cultures well into the 20th century. tense at the time of writing. of writing. Airlines The Makassarese and Bugis of the south- Pulau Adam Air (AA) To Davao Talaud west pen insula, and the Christian Mina- CLIMATE Batavia Air (BA) To Singapore US$110 (MP) DAS (DAS) US$250 (SK) Melanguane hasans of the far north, are the dominant Although temperatures are relatively con- Garuda (GA) groups of Sula wesi. The unique traditions, stant all year, Sulawesi’s mountainous ter- Lion Air (LA) Mandala (MD) Pulau Naha Merpati (MP) Sangir architecture and ceremonies of the Toraja rain plays havoc with local rainfall patterns. Silk Air (SK) 338 Sriwijaya Air (SA) (MP) people make the interior of South Sulawesi The wettest months along the west coast Wings Air (WA) a deservedly popular destination. tend to be late November, December and Other minorities, particularly Bajo Sea early January, when northwesterly and 224 To Jayapura nomads, have played an integral role in the westerly winds prevail. Southeasterly winds (MP) 1876 (BA) (GA) (MP) island’s history. The rise of the kingdom of dump heavy rains along the eastern regions To Balikpapan Gowa – Sulawesi’s first major power – from in late April, May and early June. The Palu 565 (BA) (LA) To Sorong the mid-16th century was partly due to its Valley in Central Sulawesi is one of the dri- 886 (LA) (MP) To Jakarta trading alliance with the Bajo. The Bajo est areas in Indonesia. 525 (GA) (LA) (MP) Manado To Ternate supplied valuable sea produce, especially Temperatures drop quite considerably 391 (LA) (MP) the Chinese delicacy trepang (sea cucum- going from the lowlands to the mountains. ber), tortoiseshell, birds’ nests and pearls, Average temperatures along the coast range 776 336 (LA) (MP) Gorontalo (MP) attracting international traders to Gowa’s from around 26ºC to 30ºC, but in the To Surabaya capital, Makassar. mountains the average temperature drops 590 (AA) Makassar quickly became known as a by 5ºC. See also the climate chart for Ma- Equator cosmopolitan, tolerant and secure entrepôt nado, p848 . 583 that allowed traders to bypass the Dutch (MP) monopoly over the spice trade in the east – 269 GETTING THERE & AWAY (GA) (LA) (MP) a considerable concern to the Dutch. In Air To Balikpapan Luwuk 450 (BA) Palu 420 1660 the Dutch sunk six Portuguese ships DOMESTIC (MP) in Makassar harbour, captured the fort and The three transport hubs are Makassar and To Surabaya 524 forced Gowa’s ruler, Sultan Hasanuddin, Manado, which are well connected with the 720 (MP) (LA) (SA) into an alliance in 1667. Eventually, the rest of Indonesia, and Palu, which offers Dutch managed to exclude all other foreign connections to Balikpapan in Kalimantan. 450 traders from Makassar, effectively shutting It is possible to arrange direct flights to Java, (BA) (LA) (MP) down the port. Bali, Kalimantan, Maluku and Papua, but Even after Indonesia won its independ- you’ll need to transit for connections to Rantepao ence, ongoing civil strife hampered Sulawesi’s Sumatra or Nusa Tenggara. Merpati Nu- (Tana Toraja) attempts at post-war reconstruction until well santara Airlines and Lion Air are the main into the 1960s. A period of uninterrupted carriers, but Adam Air, Batavia Air, Bouraq, To 250 peace delivered unprecedented and accelerat- Garuda Indonesia, Mandala, Sriwijaya Air Balikpapan (DAS) 262 (BA) Kendari ing development, particularly evident in the and Wings Air also service Sulawesi. See (MP) (SA) ever-growing Makassar metropolis. the individual sections and the Sulawesi Airfares map ( p669 ) for details about all 250 (LA) To Ternate domestic flights. (MP) 507 (MP) CENTRAL SULAWESI TRAVEL Makassar To Ambon WARNING INTERNATIONAL To Jakarta 320 (LA) (MD) 534 (AA) (BA) Travel to parts of Central Sulawesi remains Silk Air flies between Manado and Singa- (GA) (LA) (MD) (MP) (SA) potentially risky at the time of writing, due pore four times a week (Monday, Wednes- 188 To Biak (DAS) Pulau 1167 (BA) (GA) (MP) to continued unrest and violence. There day, Friday and Saturday) for US$250/375 To Surabaya Selayar 351 (AA) (LA) were bomb attacks in Palu and Tentena in (one way/return). Bouraq and Merpati fly (MP) Selayar To Jayapura 1271 (BA) (GA) (MP) 2005 and continued troubles in the Poso between Manado and Davao in the southern To Denpasar area. Double check the latest situation be- Philippines once a week for US$110/200. To Yogyakarta 336 (GA) (LA) To Timika 416 (MP) 1656 (MP) fore travelling through the region. See the This is useful for a visa run, but it is import- To Denpasar To Sorong Central Sulawesi section on p715 . ant to note that you need an onward ticket 669 (GA) (LA) 903 (MP) before you can enter the Philippines. 670 SULAWESI •• Getting Around www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com SOUTH SULAWESI •• Makassar 671 SULAWESI SULAWESI Tickets for all international flights from See the individual Getting There & Away en- the northeast peninsula, have good roads History Makassar and Manado are often cheaper tries and the Sulawesi Airfares map (p669 ) and frequent, comfortable buses (and less The leading powers of the south were long through travel agencies. for details of flights around Sulawesi. comfortable bemo, known in Sulawesi as the Makassarese kingdom of Gowa (around SULAWESI SULAWESI mikrolet or pete-pete).
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