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Life in a Yorkshire Village (With Special Reference to the Evolution, Customs

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Life in a Yorkshire Village (With Special Reference to the Evolution, Customs \ \^v * ?*^ tAci ^.'^o;^ KV O. \Q THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ^^e> Life in a Yorkshire Village (With special reference to the Evolution, (Aistoms. Folklore, and Legends of (^arlton-in-(>leveland, this village being taken as a type) Bv J. FAIRFAX BLAKFZBOROUGH (Siwrtiiifr Etlitor of "The Onlooker ") Author of "Enxlaiids Oldest Hunt." "Cievelaiul " and its Hunt. Noitliern Racing Records," " Life in a Training Stable," etc., etc. Stockton -U.N -Tkes : The Yorksliire Publisliing Co., 24 Trent Street. MlDDLESBKOUGH : Jordison & Co., Ltd., Printers and Puldishers. MDCCCC.XIL DA CONTENTS PAGE Foreword CHAPTER I. Notes on Village History, Life, Sports and Customs 1 Chapter ii. Village Industries (Alum and Jet Working, Spinning and Bleaching), Old-time Dress, Superstitions and more Customs . 21 CHAPTER III. The Marwoods, their connection with Peter de Bruce, and position as Lords of the Wapentake of Cleveland, the Gjers of Busby Hall and the Hall Ghost '. , . 51 CHAPTER IV. TheManor House (or Old Hall) and its Legends .. 73 CHAPTER V. AND VI. The Remarkable Ecclesiastical History of the Village . 93 The Burning and Building of Churches, together with a word on the (*atholic Faith and St. Botolph , . 123 CHAPTER VII. The Faiining Parson . 141 CHAPTER VIII. 'Vhr Parson's Public House 165 CHAPTER IX. Faceby : the Suttons and Morrisons. Village 'traditions and ('hurch Evolution .. .. 179 CHAPTER X. Parochial Varia : Village Stories, Experiences, Dialect, Folklore, Wit, Customs, etc. .. 205 QOl'722 EHGIiISH LOCAL FOREWORD At a day when, whether to our profit or to our loss, so many familiar landmarks are disappearing from our ken. or are in course of transformation into something, perhaps rich, but certainly strange, it may not be presumptuous to hope that this unpretentious chronicle -' of Life in a Yorkshire Village," may be of some- thing more than sentimental value. If the mirror these pages hold up to life is small, at anj^ rate it reflects many far-reaching changes in the manner of living and in outlook of life, in the tasks of labour and the manner their ideas, new ideals of accomplishment ; shifting flit across it, it shows the slow tooth of tim.e gnawing at and reshaping the customs, pastimes, philosophy, l)eliefs. and speech of our country folk. It is with these the historian of the future, when " he renders count of the mettle of our pasture," will have to reckon. And this mettle is. as I know it, raciest of the soil in Yorkshire village life. These communities are self- contained, and, at any rate, until the other day, were self- sufficient. The very conditions of their establishment and existence postulate it. True, they are microcosms but none the less cosmic. The dweller in towns, who has groVvn up to I'egard village life as a featureless monotony, an Arcadian captivity, chequered [pace Mr. Thomas Hardy and other distinguished realists) doubt this liy uncouth criminality, may no regard claim as partisan. But take almost any Yorkshire village whose loots strike back into the past, and VI. FOREWORD. you will find thei'e, as it is my endeavour to show in the pages that follow, quaint old-world customs, weird legends and traditions, curious beliefs (you may call them superstitions if you like), gnarled and independent characters, an almost feudal regard for the squirearchy, a keen uncontaminate affection for sport for sport's sake, and above, over all and through all, the influence of Holy Church and of the successive priests who have served her. We are, you may say, still adscripti glebae, r.s adhesive to the soil as we were in the dark days of the Middle Ages. No doubt you are right but I claim that for this very reason we are racy of the soil and that our leaders at Armageddon will have to reckon with mettle of our pasture as Henry did at Agincourt. There are numberless other village communities such as I have in mind throughout the length rnd breadth of the land, in addition to those in my own beloved Shire. There are villages tucked away in the folds of the Cotswolds, and a few remote hamlets, fewer every day, hidden away among the Sussex downs that might serve my purpose. But to illustrate my text I have thought it well to confine my story to a single village that might stand as representative of many, as it were an architype of a typical Yorkshire village. ]\Iy choice has fallen on one of the fairest in all Yorkshire—Carlton-in-Cleveland. For while I found here all the characteristics common to most other ancient village settlements in our Shire of Broad Acres I discovered a great deal of distinctive interest, of interest peculiar, perhaps, to Carlton itself. So to my chronicle of life in a Yorkshire village from the earliest records, I have added the unparalleled story and tragedy of the Church in Carlton-in- FOREWORD. Vll. Clovchnd. which a sketch of the Rev. John Latimer Kyle. M.A., the present vicar, seems to round off. All Yorkshire knows him for a parson who builds churches, rides to hounds, and farms his own glebe. He is a parson who enjoys his day with his gun, as keenly as a day with hounds. Moreover, if never a sinner, he is now a publican, in so far that he is licensee of one of the hostelries in the village. The vicar of Carlton, it seemed to ir.e. fitted into the picture, for he too is racy of the soil, and lends the human interest of a strong personality to the setting. My acknowledgn.ents due for ungrudging assistance are many. To the Vicar of Carlton and Mrs. Kyle I am indebted for a good deal of the information I have collected in the pages that follow, no less than for their encourage m.ent, without which this volume would probably never have l)een written. I also take this opportunity for expressing my thanks to the Rev. J. C. Fowler for historical data, to the Rev. P. H. Ditehtield. Rev. R. Withington, and Rev. R. Prowde for their ansv\ers to some enquiries, to Mr. W. H. Burnett for the use of his notes, to Mr. Mello for the loan of photographs, and to the Editor of The Onlooker for son:e assistance in their reproduction. To the " " authors from whom I have borrowed I have expressed my obligations in the text. Norfon, Storkton-on-Tees. CHAPTER I. NOTHS ON KARLY HISTORY AND EVOLUTION Contents of Chapter : carlton—a picture and reality, early owners, gower, the poet born near, curious local agricultural action, bull-baiting at carlton, the maypole and opposition, the inn becomes the vicarage, the ghost thereof. CHAPTER I. Amid a plethora of surpassingly beautiful hamlets and villages in Cleveland, that of Carlton is perhaps, "the fairest of the plain." Situated on a loop road, half a mile from the Stokeslej^ and Northallerton highway, it nestles under the very shadow of the Cleveland Hills. To it the summer winds carry as their burden the sweet scent of the heather, whilst the rude blasts of winter leave behind them much of their ferocity on the mountain top, whence they exchange their wild- ness for the hoot of the owl and the yap! yap! of the fox calling for her mate. At the foot of the hills, as though suppliant for protection, lies Carlton, a village so small and seemingly so unimportant, that the earh^ historians have almost ignored its existence, and later day writers have, in their worship of scenic beauty, forgotten its " stor}". It has been said Happ}^ is the country A\ithout a history," and there is a wealth of reasoning ill the trite assertion. So pastoi'al, so peaceful^ so altogether lovely is Carlton, that the casual visitor may be excused when he. imagines that he has at last discovered an idyll and an ideal—a tiny spot isolated from all that is sordid, innocent of all the turmoil and fretful striving of the outside world. There is everything to persuade the soulful man and woman that he has left the grim world behind him, that he has shaken off his feet the dust of petty jealousies, of sinful lusts, of clamouring crowds, and that side of life to which Jerome K. Jerome referred when he wrote : — 4 THE IDEALISTS CONCEPTION. " Never ending is the wild procession. Day and Night you can hear the quick tramp of the myriad feet—some running, some walking, some halting and lame but all all in the feverish ; hastening, eager race, all straining life and limb and heart and soul Entrance to Carlton Xillatre from Kacebv direction, showiii"- Carlton Bank. to reach the ever-receding horizon of success cheek by cheek they struggle onward. Screaming, cursing and praying, laughing, singing and moaning they rush past side by side." One sighs to disillusionise the idealist, vet this book must more or less paint the picture with its back ground. The eye of the artist, the conception of the scenic worshipper, the impressions of the poet, the THINGS ETHEREAL AND THINGS PRACTICAL, 5 affections of the townsman who yearns for the quiet of rusticity, all find their several inspirations in one aspect of the picture. Were they circumspect, they would find their ideal imperfect, and their idol possessed of feet of cla}-. One would not have them circumspect, nor quell the welling of their souls. This preparation for the back ground of the picture is not to lift the veil from that which is transcendent ly beautiful and heavenly, so as to shoAv that which is actual and human.
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