ISSN 1853-9610
Nº92 - 2018 - October / November / December
Pony Trails Horseback riding in Mendoza
Restaurants Maps Winery Guide Mendoza
wine-republic.com 1 Sister Company of
2 3 CONTENTS
News Republic Out & About The trout are out...... 5 Bars...... 22 The rest is history -Uelts. beer...... 5 Dining out...... 24 Mendoza made easy...... 5 Winery Guide...... 26 Restaurant Lares de Chacras...... 5 Maps & More Horse country Useful information...... 23 Cahrlie O’Malley horses around Mendoza...... 6 Map of Mendoza City Center...... 30 An outside chance Map of Maipú...... 32 Charlie O’Malley finds gambling in Mendoza a Map of Chacras de Coria...... 34 long shot from home...... 14 Map of San Martín Park...... 34
CREDITS
Issue 2018,- October / November/ December ISSN 1853-9610. 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A. Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
Editor: Charlie O’Malley Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: [email protected], [email protected] Design: Circlan.com . Jona Conti: [email protected]. Photo Contributors: Paz Arando (Cover photo), Nicolas Solop (double page photo in Horse Country) Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic www.wine-republic.com
4 NEWS REPUBLIC
The Trout are Out The Rest is History
The fly fishing season has begun. Patagonia will soon be You might think the craft beer craze is a recent criss crossed by eager fishermen looking for the perfect phenomenon but Uelts Cerveceria can trace its beer catch. What many don´t realise is Mendoza has multiple making heritage back to 1870. The San Rafael based rivers within two hours of the city, all teeming with brewery obviously has the staying power and has fish. Here the rivers are fast moving mountain streams proved it by opening a new brew pub in Mendoza, where the fishing is up close. No long casting or hauling serving award winning Pilsen, Stout and ale. Some of the is required so it makes a great place to learn and catch new beer operations in Mendoza are proving a little hit in one day. It also provides the perfect excuse to hang or miss regarding quality but this particular operation is out is some beautiful, isolated valleys watched by puma no fly-by-night. More drink by night. The tap room is and condor. For more information contact Trout & Wine located in Mendoza’s nightlife hub, Aristides. Tours, Espejo 266. www.troutandwine.com Uelts. Aristides Villanueva 115. www.ueltsbar.com.
Restaurant Lares de Chacras
One of Mendoza’s most charming boutique wine hotels has now opened its excellent restaurant to the general public. Located in the picturesque wine village of Chacras de Coria, a 20 minute drive from the city, Lares offers traditional local dishes in a rustic deluxe environment. Every Wednesday they offer asado, Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061. www. laresdechacras.com Mendoza Made Easy
Wine tourism is booming in Mendoza with increasing numbers of people from all around the World coming year on year in search of good Malbec amidst the mountains. The choice of tours is overwhelming with everything from high-end customised tours to huge groups taking the hop-on hop-off service. The wineries are now more accessible too with many now opening on weekends and offering lunches. The one problem that remains is the fact that all the better wineries require prior booking by telephone or email. This can be a problem for the mobile tourist on a loose agenda and unfamiliar with all the practicalities such as opening hours and distances. Winery Booking is a new service that solves this problem. Simply go online, select your wineries and the website will do the rest. All you have to do is turn up and drink. www.winerybooking.com.
5 Horse Country
Charlie O’Malley horses around Mendoza. Photo: Nicolas Solop
6 “Charlie, my horse won’t let me take a selfie!”
Taking a group photo of 15 Czech chemists might not seem the most complicated of tasks. But put them all on horseback in an Andean setting and the scenario takes on a comical aspect. It soon becomes apparent that horses don’t understand photo-shoots. They do not have a good eye for light, are reluctant to strike a pose and have no empathy for displaying a rider’s best side. And they Country certainly do not say “cheese”. My haphazard group are struggling just to get their horses to face the same way. They tug the reins and heel the stirrups but to no avail. Several horses offer their hinds instead of their heads and their riders twist around to pose.
They appear as if they are mounted backwards. Two mares are attacking the leaves on a low bush and another disgruntled colleague has wandered down to a creek with a distressed tourist on board. And I, the photographer, am also on horseback, juggling five digital cameras and trying to control a stubborn colt. The phrase “herding cats” comes to mind.
Eventually the photos are taken. People pose with forced smiles trying to hide their frustration with a stubborn steed. The cameras are handed back to their owners. “Sorry. Could you take it again? My eyes were closed.” “Me too. Or rather my horse’s eyes were closed.” This is the curse of digital. Life was so much simpler when we shot blind in analogue.
And horses were not just holiday accessories. It is hard to imagine that our streets once echoed with hooves and not engine revs. Now the horse as a mode of transport has been demoted to a once-a-year pleasure cruise.
People who would never think of saddling up back home, get the instant desire to go cowboy when stepping off a plane. And there is no better place than Argentina. This country’s fascination with all things equine is well documented. The lone gaucho on horseback is a national symbol, as is the gallant polo player. Buenos Aires holds two of the finest race tracks in the World and there are abundant opportunities to saddle up all around the country. Mendoza is one such place. Pony trails here vary from two-hour jaunts through vineyards to epic 5-day treks across the mountains to Chile.
7 Horse & Wine Take a ride through the vineyards of Maipu, followed by an exquisite lunch at Finca Agostino winery. The two-hour circuit starts at the stables Rancho Viejo in Lunlunta and meanders through olive groves and fields of grapes, dusty country lanes and the dry riverbed of the Rio Mendoza. Lunch is a 6-course spectacular with food and wine pairings. The excursion starts at 11am and finishes at 5pm. Perfect for beginners and wine lovers. Consult www.troutandwine.com.
Horse & Fly Mendoza offers ample fly fishing opportunities in high mountain river creeks in Uco Valley and Uspallata. Some of the best fishing spots can only be reached by foot or truck or better still 4X4 hooves. Riding by horseback along a gushing stream teeming with rainbow trout and enjoying a classic asado in the wilderness is not a bad way to spend a day. Two excellent places to do so are Estancia El Manzanito and Estancia San Pablo. Skill level: Beginner/intermediate. Consult www.troutandwine. com for the different options.
Photo: Estancia San Pablo
8 9 10 Photo: Trekking Travel
Horse & History There is no more memorable way to arrive in a country than on horseback with your luggage in tow. If you thought the only way to get to Chile was by car, bus or plane, check again. This 5-day excursion follows the footsteps of San Martin and his epic trek over the Andes into Chile. Don a poncho and sleep under the stars. Skill level intermediate. For more information go to the experts www.trekkingtravel.com.
Photo: Rancho e Cuero
Horse & Luxury Mendoza may be desert but it is also home to lush green valleys teeming with wildlife such as guanacos, trout, foxes, puma and condor. Valle de Carreras is a slice of temperate paradise between Potrerillos lake and Uco Valley and home to some upscale estancias that offer high-end luxury outings on horseback. Rancho e Cuero is a 5000 hectare ranch in a bucolic setting. Perfect for the accomplished rider or discerning cowgirl who does not like to slum it in the mountains.
11 Horse & Glaciar Los Chulengos is a beautifully preserved ranch that was once home to herds of sheep, goats and cows. It is now an upscale lodge where city slickers get to indulge their every gaucho fantasy. Activities here include one-day horseback excursions with asado lunches, fly fishing expeditions, 4X4 adventures through the mountains and an epic 4-day horse trek to a Andean glaciar. For more information go to www.loschulengos.com.ar
Photo: Los Chulengos
Horse & Gaucho In the Andean foothills, away from the vineyards, you’ll find hardy gauchos managing cattle ranches and farms. Estancia La Alejandra is at the epicentre in Valle Carreras and is an equestrian paradise with rearing stables that hold sturdy criolla horses and elegant European breeds. The 100-year old estancia house offers accommodation and activities such as hiking and riding. You can also indulge your equestrian desires further by taking horse coaching courses with the ranches very own horse whisperer. www.estancialaalejandra.com.ar Photo: Finca la Alejandra
Horse Riding Tips * Wear long pants to prevent scarring your ankles * Don’t forget your fanny pack (or bum bag as the and shins for life. Those yellow holiday shorts will Brits say). This is a handy item to hold your bits and not do, unless you want knees the colour of beetroot pieces when doing lengthy rides. and a week of pain. * Get to know your horse. Offer your hand for it to * Sturdy shoes are a must. Flips flops are only smell and pet it before mounting. allowed if you can prove you were born in a saddle, are bow legged and shoot from the hip. * Posture is important. Don´t slouch, keep your chin up and hold your hands level with your hips. Lose the death grip on the reins. Relax and enjoy.
12 13 14 15 An Outside Chance
Charlie O’Malley finds gambling in Mendoza a long shot from home. Photo: Babil Kulesi
When people ask me what I miss most about my native numbers that correspond to a favourite niece’s birthday Ireland, I could play the nostalgic exile and bleat about or yanking a metal bar in robotic unison with a row of family, friends and, God forbid, that Celtic mist rolling zombie pensioners. Mendoza´s casinos are dour halls of over the mountains – rain that is. The truth is what I yearn gloom in comparison with the chirpy illuminations of a for most is the wholesome Irish pastime of gambling on busy Ladbrokes. horses. Mendoza may have one thousand wineries but it has Nothing warms my memory nodes more than the not got one bookmaker. As common as corner stores thought of being perched on a high stool in front of a in the UK and Ireland, ask a local for the directions to a glittering bar with a yellow headed creamy pint of stout bookmakies here and you’ll find yourself queuing with on the bar, an untidy pile of betting slips, the newspaper schoolchildren at a bookstore to buy pens and notepads. open on the racing page and the muck soaked finish of Off track gambling is inexplicably forbidden and it seems the 2.15 at Doncaster on the TV unleashing a string of to be the one law that Argentines actually adhere to. obscenities from an old farmer in the corner. Here you must physically go to the races if you want to So it is no surprise that I have tried to replicate such an have a flutter – a slight problem as there is only one track experience on occasion over the past decade here in in Mendoza and it has a meeting once a month. Such a Argentina, with very limited success. The truth is that desolate betting landscape compares poorly with back gambling opportunities are somewhat sparse here in home where a race is held every five minutes – be it Mendoza. horses, dogs or wife carrying. As soon as the day meetings end you have night time racing and indeed the bookies You have casinos and you have lottery shops and little would stay open all night if allowed to and show racing else, besides the sterile option of opening a Paddy Power in Hong Kong, Adelaide and on the Rings of Saturn. internet account and wagering long distance. In the grand pantheon of gamblers, horse racing enthusiasts have Here I must make do with the Hipodromo Mendoza – a always looked down their noses on other spendthrifts sad, dusty, oval-shaped dirt track with scruffy stands and who prefer to throw their money away on numbers sun beaten railings. This down-at-heel course has its one rackets and one-armed bandits. day of glory every year with the Clasico Vendimia. Held the Sunday after the Wine Harvest jamboree, thousands The art of picking a winning steed from a field of turn up to cheer on a bleary eyed, newly crowned temperamental equine athletes is certainly more Harvest Queen and wonder what her diamante purse is challenging and alluring than repeatedly picking on for the 3 o’clock steeple chase. 17 It is like a low key version of the Grand National back home, where even 8 year-olds can take a punt on some Hipodromo Buenos Aires hopeless nag and win an unexpected fortune and are thus hooked for life.
So Mendoza is a bust for the geegees. However Buenos Aires is another matter. The federal capital boasts two of the finest race courses in the World, one of which, the Hipodromo Palermo, is a magnificent cathedral to racing located a short gallop from the busy thoroughfares of downtown Palermo. With a capacity for 100,000 spectators and races held three times a week, this track is effortlessly accessible and with free admission, a cheap day out for the casual visitor.
Built in 1908, its classical French architecture oozes sophistication and is a splendid setting, especially on a big race day such as the Gran Premio Nacional in November when thousands turn out to see horses from all over the racing world compete for the big money prize. It also boasts the biggest gambling hall in South America, a subterranean “sala slots” with 5000 one-armed bandits steadily robbing people 24 hours a day.
Before you rush to book the night bus however, there is one important caveat to consider – no alcohol is served on the premises, ever. You can imagine the effect such a regulation has on an Irishman who finds it mandatory to quench his gambling thirst with something that has more bite than a Sprite with lemon. If white wine goes with fish, beer and whisky go with horses. Por Una Cabeza - Tango and the Track. The majestic splendour of the Hipodromo Palermo somewhat pales with this prudish rule and I’ll have to put “Losing by a head, All that madness on hold all fantasies of reliving the horsey life in South Her mouth, her kiss Wipes out the sadness America. Its either that or I buy a hip flask. And soothes the bitterness. ”
Tango’s most famous song; Por Una Cabeza, is an artful lament to both love and gambling, where the singer compares his addiction to horses to his desperate attraction to female beauty.
Even if you know nothing of tango, you’ll recognise the plaintive violin strains of a song that has become the signature Hollywood tango melody used in numerous movies such as when Al Pacino dances blind in Scent of a Woman, or Liam Neeson carousing in Schindler’s List. The title of the song means “by a head” and is a mournful pun on losing a close race and falling head over heels for a woman.
The gambler’s compulsion to throw it all away chimes all to well with the hopeless romantic´s reckless passion for love that is almost always unrequited.
“Enough of the track, no more gambling I’ll never watch a photo finish again But if a pony looks like a sure thing on Sunday I’ll bet everything again, what can I do?”
The song was written in 1935 by Carlos Gardel and Hipódromo Mendoza Alfredo La Pena, both of whom tragically died in a plane crash in Colombia the same year.
18 19 20 21 BARS
INSIDE MENDOZA CITY
The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
LA TABERNA DE MOE This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer. Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317
ANTARES BAR Aristides street would not be very complete without its own micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer in this respect with bars located across the country since before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153. EL BOTELLÓN Located in the 5th Section towards the San Martin Park and on Sarmiento 635 this bar has at least 14 varieties – Nuevo Origen, La Palmira, Fulana, Maleva y Portal, amongst others. You can fill your own bottle and they have a gluten free option. In Sarmiento Street, don’t be deceived by their modest façade, once you enter the premises, the bar is huge. They have an upstairs region as well as their big patio where there’s a drink bar that is becoming the ‘it’ place in Mendoza for thirsty office workers to finish their day with happy hour. BELIEVE IRISH PUB One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part- owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music- video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. HANGAR 52 www.believeirishpub.com.ar This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth, well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinker´s curse in Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables, resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip. Aristides 168.
22 BIKE TOURS In Maipú
The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended Wineries Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae, Alandes and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent “El Enemigo”.
USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right: (261) 156416 047 - Clark 298 corner. Olascoaga. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.
EVERYTHING YOU NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT TIPPING BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK It’s a cultural minefield and a frequent topic amongst tourists and locals. Here we try to unravel the thorny subject of tipping by answering the most frequent questions. - Should I tip? Yes. Mendocinos are too nice to push the point but those who work in hospitality, especially waiters, are very much dependent on gratuities. - Who should I tip? Most definitely your lunch or dinner waiter and to a lesser extent your driver and wine tour guide if you are happy with the service. - What should I tip? 10% is the norm for meals or if in doubt 200 pesos is reasonable. - Is the winery lunch tip not included with the wine tour package? No.
23 DINING OUT Recommended
El Mercadito The perfect spot for some lunch time MENDOZA sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by three friends, El Mercadito has a cool CITY vibe and relaxed music making it a favorite. Opening in the morning for healthy breakfasts and antioxidants juices, El Mercadito stays open throughout the siesta with its light menu of sandwiches, big salads La Patrona and some Argentine classic meals. Aristides Villanueva 521. Los Toneles Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190. casual, rustic charm attracts with Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel traditional Argentine food and - 4962267. friendly and warm atmosphere. Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado Los Toneles go with warm, open sandwiches. We recommend the artichoke hearts Pizzaiolo Located 15 minutes walk beyond the and goat cheese; roasted vegetables city center, this handsome historical with white wine and honey; or the Minimalistic but full of flavor is how winery offers Old World elegance more traditional pick of rich glands you can describe Pizzaiolo. This is a and atmosphere. The expansive cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel: true Italian food shop with excellent restaurant serves traditional dishes (261) 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm- pizzas and Italian dishes such as with a gourmet twist and it’s the 3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal calzones, bruschettas and pastas. If you perfect lunch or dinner spot for those cost: $350. have a sweet tooth we recommend who have just arrived and want the tiramisu and lemon Semifreddo. some genuine Mendocino ambience . The owners, Esteban and Karim Fahra Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel - and Pablo Nievas, are no strangers 431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday Josefina to successful businesses since their lunch and dinner. families ran ‘La Buona Pizza’ and ‘De Trendy and cosmopolitan, Josefina un Rincón de la Boca’ two of the most Restó is an island of elegance on famous pizza places in Mendoza. hectic Aristides Street. The building Sarmiento 631. Tel: (261) 420-0181. is a playful mix of the urbane and Mon. to Sun.: 12pm to 1am. Avg. Meal the natural. The warmth of vintage cost:$300 style drawings adorning the walls are illuminated through large, handsome street windows. The food is eclectic and seasonal. www. Bröd josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza 5500, Charming bakery coffee shop with Argentina – Tel. 261 4233531 expansive courtyard set in old colonial townhouse one block from Plaza Independencia. Excellent for light lunches and battery charging coffee stops. Great wine selection Josefina next door at Winery wine store can be purchased and sampled in courtyard. Chile 894. Tel:4252993. Chulenguito
El Perro Lombardo The new gastronomic pub is causing Chulenguito a great first impression. The concept is simple but well thought of as there Avoid the tourists milling around are no formalities when sitting down Aristides and get a flavour of real on the table but to concentrate on local nightlife along the bar strip the quality of the food. El Perro or known as San Martin Sur six blocks the dog offers a chance to mingle in south of Colon. Here amongst a cosmopolitan environment. The sidewalk cafes and discobars you’ll options range from falafel to cous find a lively bar and restaurant called cous salad to burgers and you can pair Chulenguito that specializes in grilled it a cold beer or glass of wine. The bite meats, pizzas and craft beer. Attracts of the week is very affordable only at a young crowd and gets going late. $160 pesos which includes a dish of Tel 4227494. Av San Martin Sur y the day + non-alcoholic drink or beer. Leguizamón. (Godoy Cruz) The bar is in Arístides Villanueva www.facebook.com/ChulenguitoBar 537. Tel 4638847
24 Recommended DINING OUT
Ruca Malen Ruca Malen winery is synonymous OUTSIDE with gourmet food & wine pairings in Mendoza and was a pioneer in this area. Having lunch in Ruca THE CITY Malen is also a visual experience, from the food served in creative plates designed especially for the occasion by local craftsmen to the breathtaking view one gets of the Finca Agostino Andes and the vineyard. It also offers great vegetarian and gluten-free The property is beautiful full options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo, of gardens and vineyards. The Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 AlPasión restaurant matches the elegance of the 553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236. outside with a tasteful and polished [email protected] setting. My favorite is the hospitality of the staff. From beginning to end Prímula Cantina Ferroviaria your experience will be accompanied Los Negritos by the smiles and politeness of the A small, genuine restaurant that is a tourism and restaurant staff. The Family-owned restaurant in the homage to Mendoza’s railway heritage. food is a 5 course reverie to the senses rustic splendor of Las Vegas in Part of the winery Estrellas de los Andes, that will take you through the native Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This this cantina is the Argentinean version ingredients of Mendoza with very is without doubt the best restaurant of a 50’s diner. The atmosphere is relaxed modern techniques. Pablo and Carlos in the mountains, specializing in and immediately transports you back to Torres, we’ll often explain the dishes traditional family recipes that add the good old days. You can even have and pairings. The menu is seasonal a new twist to Andean fare such as your lunch in an old restored wagon. The with much of the ingredients freshly humitas, tomatican and mondongo. setting is not pretentious and nor is the picked from the property’s organic The restaurant itself is simple and food. The menu consists of three courses vegetable garden and orchard. modern with no frills, but the food of with 3 to 4 options in every course. The Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipú. Tel – course. Open weekends and public options change every week according to 5249358. Mon to Sun 13pm to 4pm. holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg the season and the availability of local Avg. meal price: $1200 pesos. $250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas, products, made on a huge outdoor grill Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431. and mud oven. Olavarria 225, Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo. Tel 261 2213899 from Tuesday to Sunday and holidays from Lunch in a Winery 11am to 18 pm
Whatever you do in Mendoza, make sure to have lunch in a winery. There is nothing quite like sitting back to a long line of wine glasses holding delicious Chardonnay, Torrontes, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon (amongst others), accompanied by the finest, gourmet food Argentina has to offer. The icing on the cake is that icing on the Andes in the background and the lush green vines Finca Agostino of the vineyard. It is definitely the most civilised way to get drunk on La Azul the planet.
La Azul Casarena Restaurant Lares de Chacras A pioneer in the Uco Valley region, The view and setting is gorgeous. this boutique winery now offers One of Mendoza’s most charming Surrounded by vineyards, this hearty lunches in a rustic setting with boutique wine hotels has now opened modern and elegant restaurant stunning views of the mountains. its excellent restaurant to the general allows for a charming and gourmet Family-owned , the owners are often public. Located in the picturesque experience. The menu is designed by your hosts and they take pride in wine village of Chacras de Coria, star chef Lucas Bustos concentrating serving giant portions of excellent a 20 minute drive from the city, in a sustainable and organic cuisine. beef and pork dishes, accompanied Lares offers traditional local dishes The surprise of the menu is the by the winery’s excellent, high in a rustic deluxe environment. delicious pairing with their wines altitude wines. Popular, authentic Every Wednesday they offer asado, but also a cider. Brandsen 505, Luján and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras de Cuyo. Tel – (+54) 9 261 696 7848 . Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato. de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www. Mon. to Sat. 12:30pm to 3pm. Avg. Tel - (02622) 423 593. laresdechacras.com/ meal price: $1200 pesos.
25 THE WINERY GUIDE
Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco
Los Toneles
City Center winery Los Toneles has a charming Old World feel CITY and excellent restaurant. It is a five minute walk east of the bus station.”Dirección: Acceso Este Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza. (0261) 431-0403. Open everyday. Los Toneles www.bodegalostoneles.com Clos de Chacras Cruzat
Charming boutique operation with A boutique traditional sparkling wine nice history. A five minute walk producer with gorgeous bubbles that from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran LUJÁN can be enjoyed from their terrace Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706. overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. DE CUYO Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.closdechacras.com.ar www.bodegacruzat.com
Terrazas de los Andes Melipal Alta Vista
The fine wine sister of Chandon Great Malbec and gourmet lunches Masterful mix of modern and Argentina is a beautifully restored make Melipal one of the most traditional. Tasting includes bodega with well-appointed tasting exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) distinctive Torrontes or single room. Best Wine: Cheval de los 4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684. Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de com.ar de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com
Mendel Matervini Terrazas de los Andes An old style winery ran by one of Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago Argentina’s most famous winemaker Achaval and Robert Cipresso, dynasties the De La Motta family. break new, exciting ground with (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor rich, mineral wines from unusual Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. terroirs. This tiny, boutique mendel.com.ar operation only sells from the winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com. Viña Cobos Tel. 261 5616691. Luigi Bosca American winemaker Paul Hobbs Belasco de Baquedano The Arizu dynasty are the royal was one of the first to recognise family of Argentine wine and their the possibilities of Malbec and his Gleaming modern facility with seat of operations is a handsome and Bramare label is possibly one of the fascinating aroma room and restaurant elegant 110-year old winery. (0261) best examples of this varietal. (0261) with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www. Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www. www.vinacobos.com belascomalbec.co luigibosca.com.ar Familia Blanco Wines Catena Zapata Ciudad Family-owned, modern and practical Showcase winery designed like winery. It is branded by the passion a Mayan temple overlooking Luján de Cuyo and can do attitude of the owners. vineyards and the Andes Mountains. The most popular wine is Bonarda. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. Maipú The winemaker in charge is the Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. famous Giuseppe Franceschini. Visits catenawines.com Valle de Uco available every day from 10am to 17pm. www.familiablancowines.com
Catena Zapata Tapiz Nieto Senetiner Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high- Located in a beautiful old winery end restaurant Terruño and an in Chacras, Senetiner was founded instructive wine tour including in 1888 and makes a great range of barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz. Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner. com com.ar
26 THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery
Benegas Lynch Carmelo Patti Chandon
Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Mendoza’s most famous garagista. The original foreign investor, French- old bodega with lots of character. Carmelo Patti himself is often there owned Chandon has been making Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) to show you around (in Spanish). Best great sparkling wines in Mendoza 496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. www.bodegabenegas.com barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. 2614, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar Caelum Decero Modern, medium size winery on Chandon the main road to Chile just before Attractive, modern facility with the mountains and has a nice spectacular views of the mountains family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com
Vistalba Dominio del Plata Tasting room where one entire wall Ruca Malen Argentina´s most famous female is a subterranean cross section of the winemaker Susana Balbo is creating actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Excellent food, great guiding and some rich and complex wines in the Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. first-class wines. The pairings over heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. lunch make for an unforgettable Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de www.carlospulentawines culinary experience. (0261) Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar 5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www. bodegarucamalen.com Renacer Dominio del Plata This Chilean-owned winery creates Estrella de los Andes the label Punto Final. Small, modern operation with tours that include Old World winery and canteen style a hands-on lesson in blending. Vistalba restaurant with a railway theme. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. Simple and authentic. (0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www. Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190 bodegarenacer.com.ar Budeguer [email protected]
Lagarde Modern-style Budeguer winery offers you the chance to blend Owner of the oldest white wine in wine and art in a warm and relaxed South America. Try the hand-crafted atmosphere. Its superb terrace is sparkling wine made from 100 open until 8pm and it is the perfect year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying 27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745, the sunset. Reservations required Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. at [email protected] or (0261) www.lagarde.com.ar 6830749- www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Kaiken Casarena Cuyo. Mendoza.
A beautiful mix of old and new, Dante Robino this winery mixes tradition and Achaval Ferrer modernity in an old style winery Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old- with a super modern restaurant with Modern boutique close to Mendoza style winery with a modernist, light- splendid views of the vineyards and riverbed. Big concentrated wines. filled tasting room with excellent mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, view of mountains and vines. www.casarenawines.com (261) Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón 6967848. com Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www. bodegadanterobino.com Kaiken Familia Cassone This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious A charming, family owned winery Chilean winery Montes. Big and in a beautiful setting. Try the powerful wines, destined for fame. jasmine tinted rosé amidst the (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile pastoral splendour of the owner’s (0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155 expansive garden. Anchorena y Casarena 509 453) Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www. familiacassone.com.ar
27 THE WINERY GUIDE
Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco
Septima Alpamanta Catena Zapata
A beautifully designed winery with Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set Showcase winery designed like clear views of the mountains and a in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche. a Mayan temple overlooking large terrace used for sunset wine Ideal for families and nature lovers. vineyards and the Andes Mountains. events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan www.alpamanta.com Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com catenawines.com
Pulenta Estate Norton
Cool minimalist design and rich Old-style cellars contrast with a high- complex wines make this a winery tech production line. Tank and barrel with finesse and style. Best Wine: MAIPU tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. are popular with the locals. (0261) Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel. www.pulentaestate.com Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar
Trez Wines AMP Cava Three friends making award Rutini / La Rural winnning wine in a small, circular Premium wines made from different winery.Tel. 4877085 y Well-stocked museum with terroirs but all by renowned winemaker +54 9 2616854019. invaluable antiques like cowhide Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings [email protected] wine presses and buckets. Giant and a close proximity to the city make oak tanks stand in large, cavernous it a recommended visit. Gómez Adriano halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, (261) 4813201/4668048 Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar
Don Manuel Villafañe Lopez 25 Tempus Alba 4 Modern winery in the wide open Popular, old-style winery with two Charming family run winery with vineyards of southern Maipú. museums on the wine. Restaurant modern facilities and terrace with a Intense, complex wines. Art offers gourmet cuisine with a view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel. exhibition all year long. Ruta 60 panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. 4813501. www.tempusalba.com. s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipú. (0261) Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. 5083067. www.dmvwines.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar. Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial Carinae Finca Agostino Trapiche Small, charming, French-owned Elegant and picturesque winery winery offering personal tours and with ancient vines and walled Argentina’s biggest winery is a well-honed wines. Surrounded by orchard. Offer superb lunches and mix of old and new, traditional and vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499 cookery classes. Carril Barrancas industrial, and has the old train 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de 10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www. tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 Piedra, Maipú . ncaagostino.com 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www.carinaevinos.com www.trapiche.com.ar
El Enemigo
One of Argentina’s most talented winemakers Alejandro Vigil opens the door to this colorful and unconventional boutique operation. Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered. Carinae Finca Agostino Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261) Rutini Museum Finca Agostino 697 4213 Familia Cecchin
Familia Zuccardi A family winery using organic and biodynamic principles where you A professional, far-sighted operation. can see the entire process from the Attractive restaurant amidst the beautiful green vineyards to the vines, famous for its asado-style minimal intervention winery. (0261) lunches and generous wine pourings. 497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before (0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Casa El Enemigo reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar
28 THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery
Familia Di Tommasso Trivento
Officially the second oldest winery in Located in the bucolic splendour of Trivento Mendoza and still run by Argentine southern Maipu, Trivento is owned hands. Their charming and rustic by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This restaurant looks onto the vineyard, modern winery has a beautiful deck set just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www. excursions within the property. Ruta 60 familiaditommaso.com y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza. (0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com
Finca Sophenia The Vines of Mendoza Modern, high tech winery in A cooperative of international wine VALLE stunning location. High quality lovers who have all bought a vineyard wines overseen by Matias Michellini. plot each in Uco Valley to make their www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154- own wine with experts. Add to this DE UCO 45622 a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley Domaine Bousquet will never be the same again. Ruta 94, Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900 Atamisque Another French transplant to the Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, Salentein This Uco winery has some great this sizeable operation produces white wines, a unique stony roof and high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot Designed like a temple to wine, this they breed their own trout which is and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato. ultra-concept winery includes a served in the charming restaurant. www.domainebousquet.com (0261) modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel (0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San 5274048 set high in the Andean valley. (02622) Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque. 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www. com killkasalentein.com Corazon del Sol La Azul A stark, modern winery with big, Simple, small production winery concentrated reds. Californian with not so simple Malbecs, a small owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel. traditional restaurant and now a 0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol. beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P com. 89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com Andeluna Salentein The old-world style tasting room La Azul looks upon dramatic views of Diamandes vineyards against mountains. Probably the best gourmet lunch Modern, imposing winery with in the winery. (02622) 423 226 magnificent wines, part of Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, prestigious French group Clos de los Tupungato. www. andeluna.com Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland. Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261) 4760695. Casa Petrini O. Fournier Bodega Masi Modern, boutique winery with Most architecturally innovative unusual volcanic soil vineyards and Fascinating Italian job in the heart of winery with rich, concentrated luxury 8-room lodge, restaurant and Tupungato with commanding views wines. Excellent lunches in the spa. www.casapetrini.com and commanding wines, especially modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 Andeluna the Amarone inspired varietals and 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. Carlos. www.ofournier.com Piedra Infinita www.masitupungato.com Gimenez Riili Innovative, elegant and modern, Piedra Infinita is the imposing, A brand new family run affair, part dramatic contribution of Familia of the exciting Vines of Mendoza Zuccardi in Uco Valley.. Open project. This is a modern winery in from Wednesday to Sunday. www. a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/ zuccardiwines.com. 0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Mendoza.
29 30 31 32 MAP OF WINE TOUR MAIPÚ
33 MAP OF SAN MARTIN PARK
Mendoza City Tour Route
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