Horseback Riding in Mendoza
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ISSN 1853-9610 Nº92 - 2018 - October / November / December Pony Trails Horseback riding in Mendoza Restaurants Maps Winery Guide Mendoza wine-republic.com 1 Sister Company of 2 3 CONTENTS News Republic Out & About The trout are out........................................................ 5 Bars............................................................................... 22 The rest is history -Uelts. beer............................... 5 Dining out.................................................................. 24 Mendoza made easy.................................................. 5 Winery Guide........................................................... 26 Restaurant Lares de Chacras................................. 5 Maps & More Horse country Useful information.................................................. 23 Cahrlie O’Malley horses around Mendoza............ 6 Map of Mendoza City Center............................... 30 An outside chance Map of Maipú............................................................ 32 Charlie O’Malley finds gambling in Mendoza a Map of Chacras de Coria........................................ 34 long shot from home........................................................... 14 Map of San Martín Park......................................... 34 CREDITS Issue 2018,- October / November/ December ISSN 1853-9610. 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A. Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 Editor: Charlie O’Malley Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: [email protected], [email protected] Design: Circlan.com . Jona Conti: [email protected]. Photo Contributors: Paz Arando (Cover photo), Nicolas Solop (double page photo in Horse Country) Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic www.wine-republic.com 4 NEWS REPUBLIC The Trout are Out The Rest is History The fly fishing season has begun. Patagonia will soon be You might think the craft beer craze is a recent criss crossed by eager fishermen looking for the perfect phenomenon but Uelts Cerveceria can trace its beer catch. What many don´t realise is Mendoza has multiple making heritage back to 1870. The San Rafael based rivers within two hours of the city, all teeming with brewery obviously has the staying power and has fish. Here the rivers are fast moving mountain streams proved it by opening a new brew pub in Mendoza, where the fishing is up close. No long casting or hauling serving award winning Pilsen, Stout and ale. Some of the is required so it makes a great place to learn and catch new beer operations in Mendoza are proving a little hit in one day. It also provides the perfect excuse to hang or miss regarding quality but this particular operation is out is some beautiful, isolated valleys watched by puma no fly-by-night. More drink by night. The tap room is and condor. For more information contact Trout & Wine located in Mendoza’s nightlife hub, Aristides. Tours, Espejo 266. www.troutandwine.com Uelts. Aristides Villanueva 115. www.ueltsbar.com. Restaurant Lares de Chacras One of Mendoza’s most charming boutique wine hotels has now opened its excellent restaurant to the general public. Located in the picturesque wine village of Chacras de Coria, a 20 minute drive from the city, Lares offers traditional local dishes in a rustic deluxe environment. Every Wednesday they offer asado, Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061. www. laresdechacras.com Mendoza Made Easy Wine tourism is booming in Mendoza with increasing numbers of people from all around the World coming year on year in search of good Malbec amidst the mountains. The choice of tours is overwhelming with everything from high-end customised tours to huge groups taking the hop-on hop-off service. The wineries are now more accessible too with many now opening on weekends and offering lunches. The one problem that remains is the fact that all the better wineries require prior booking by telephone or email. This can be a problem for the mobile tourist on a loose agenda and unfamiliar with all the practicalities such as opening hours and distances. Winery Booking is a new service that solves this problem. Simply go online, select your wineries and the website will do the rest. All you have to do is turn up and drink. www.winerybooking.com. 5 Horse Country Charlie O’Malley horses around Mendoza. Photo: Nicolas Solop 6 “Charlie, my horse won’t let me take a selfie!” Taking a group photo of 15 Czech chemists might not seem the most complicated of tasks. But put them all on horseback in an Andean setting and the scenario takes on a comical aspect. It soon becomes apparent that horses don’t understand photo-shoots. They do not have a good eye for light, are reluctant to strike a pose and have no empathy for displaying a rider’s best side. And they Country certainly do not say “cheese”. My haphazard group are struggling just to get their horses to face the same way. They tug the reins and heel the stirrups but to no avail. Several horses offer their hinds instead of their heads and their riders twist around to pose. They appear as if they are mounted backwards. Two mares are attacking the leaves on a low bush and another disgruntled colleague has wandered down to a creek with a distressed tourist on board. And I, the photographer, am also on horseback, juggling five digital cameras and trying to control a stubborn colt. The phrase “herding cats” comes to mind. Eventually the photos are taken. People pose with forced smiles trying to hide their frustration with a stubborn steed. The cameras are handed back to their owners. “Sorry. Could you take it again? My eyes were closed.” “Me too. Or rather my horse’s eyes were closed.” This is the curse of digital. Life was so much simpler when we shot blind in analogue. And horses were not just holiday accessories. It is hard to imagine that our streets once echoed with hooves and not engine revs. Now the horse as a mode of transport has been demoted to a once-a-year pleasure cruise. People who would never think of saddling up back home, get the instant desire to go cowboy when stepping off a plane. And there is no better place than Argentina. This country’s fascination with all things equine is well documented. The lone gaucho on horseback is a national symbol, as is the gallant polo player. Buenos Aires holds two of the finest race tracks in the World and there are abundant opportunities to saddle up all around the country. Mendoza is one such place. Pony trails here vary from two-hour jaunts through vineyards to epic 5-day treks across the mountains to Chile. 7 Horse & Wine Take a ride through the vineyards of Maipu, followed by an exquisite lunch at Finca Agostino winery. The two-hour circuit starts at the stables Rancho Viejo in Lunlunta and meanders through olive groves and fields of grapes, dusty country lanes and the dry riverbed of the Rio Mendoza. Lunch is a 6-course spectacular with food and wine pairings. The excursion starts at 11am and finishes at 5pm. Perfect for beginners and wine lovers. Consult www.troutandwine.com. Horse & Fly Mendoza offers ample fly fishing opportunities in high mountain river creeks in Uco Valley and Uspallata. Some of the best fishing spots can only be reached by foot or truck or better still 4X4 hooves. Riding by horseback along a gushing stream teeming with rainbow trout and enjoying a classic asado in the wilderness is not a bad way to spend a day. Two excellent places to do so are Estancia El Manzanito and Estancia San Pablo. Skill level: Beginner/intermediate. Consult www.troutandwine. com for the different options. Photo: Estancia San Pablo 8 9 10 Photo: Trekking Travel Horse & History There is no more memorable way to arrive in a country than on horseback with your luggage in tow. If you thought the only way to get to Chile was by car, bus or plane, check again. This 5-day excursion follows the footsteps of San Martin and his epic trek over the Andes into Chile. Don a poncho and sleep under the stars. Skill level intermediate. For more information go to the experts www.trekkingtravel.com. Photo: Rancho e Cuero Horse & Luxury Mendoza may be desert but it is also home to lush green valleys teeming with wildlife such as guanacos, trout, foxes, puma and condor. Valle de Carreras is a slice of temperate paradise between Potrerillos lake and Uco Valley and home to some upscale estancias that offer high-end luxury outings on horseback. Rancho e Cuero is a 5000 hectare ranch in a bucolic setting. Perfect for the accomplished rider or discerning cowgirl who does not like to slum it in the mountains. 11 Horse & Glaciar Los Chulengos is a beautifully preserved ranch that was once home to herds of sheep, goats and cows. It is now an upscale lodge where city slickers get to indulge their every gaucho fantasy. Activities here include one-day horseback excursions with asado lunches, fly fishing expeditions, 4X4 adventures through the mountains and an epic 4-day horse trek to a Andean glaciar. For more information go to www.loschulengos.com.ar Photo: Los Chulengos Horse & Gaucho In the Andean foothills, away from the vineyards, you’ll find hardy gauchos managing cattle ranches and farms. Estancia La Alejandra is at the epicentre in Valle Carreras and is an equestrian paradise with rearing stables that hold sturdy criolla horses and elegant European breeds. The 100-year old estancia house offers accommodation and activities such as hiking and riding. You can also indulge your equestrian desires further by taking horse coaching courses with the ranches very own horse whisperer. www.estancialaalejandra.com.ar Photo: Finca la Alejandra Horse Riding Tips * Wear long pants to prevent scarring your ankles * Don’t forget your fanny pack (or bum bag as the and shins for life.