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THE BUI...LSI!:YE DE&IGN AND TARBET .-.AE REDI9TIERED TRADEMARKS AND TARIIET BIFTCARD 19 A SERVI CE MARK OF" TARGET BRANDS, INCa ALL AUIHTS REEiEAVED. maxe THE WORLD LEADER IN MICRDBATTERY TECHNOLOGY TARQET IS NDT A ..AIIITICIPAT1NG ~ARTNER IN DR SIPCNBDR OF THIS OF"'F"EA. HOROLOGICAL TIMES JUNE 2007 HoRoLOGICAL~· TIMES CoNTENTs VOLUME 31, NUMBER 6, JUNE 2007 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute FEATURES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES JCK Show Sponsors 6 American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Physics of the Hairspring and Escapement, Part 1 (AWCI) 8 701 Enterprise Drive By Dr. Matthew Clark Harrison, OH 45030 Hand Made, Hand Finished, By Curtis D. Thomson Toll Free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) 14 or (513) 367-9800 Certification-What It's all About!, By Jerry Faier 18 Fax: (513) 367-1414 The Professional Horologist, By Vincent Schrader E-mail: [email protected] 22 Website: www.awci.com The Board of Examiners: Who are they? And what do they do? Office Hours: Standards and Practices of Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (EST) 26 Closed National Holidays 21st Century Watchmakers and Clockmakers

Managing Editor & Advertising Manager DEPARTMENTS Donna K. Baas President's Message, By Dennis Warner 2 Associate Editor & Design Associate Katherine J. Ortt Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic 3 On the Web 3 Executive Director/Education & Technical Director James E. Lubic, CMW21 Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 4 Assistant Executive Director New Members 17 Lucy Fuleki From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 46 Finance Director Bulletin Board Thomas J. Pack, CPA 57 Clock Instructor Industry News 58 Laurie Penman Classified Advertising 59 Watchmaking Instructor/Certification Coordinator Advertisers' Index 64 Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 AWCI Staff Directory 64 Education Coordinator Nancy L. Wellmann Membership Coordinator EDUCATION Sharon McManus AWCI Academy of Watchmaking Classes 21 Receptionist/Secretary Heather Weaver AWCI 21st Century Certification Exam Schedule 21 IT Director AWCI Education, Academy of Watchmaking Classes 34 Jim Meyer AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair 56

HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE SPECIAL INTEREST Ron Iverson, CMC: Chairman Workshop Floor Plans 40 Karel Ebenstreit, CMW Jeffrey Hess Watchmaker's Tool Kit and Basic Workshop Equipment 42 Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW AWCI Convention & Educational Symposium 45 E-mail: [email protected] AWCI Business and Pricing Survey 49 Affiliate Chapters 50 Repriltilg and reproduction is prohbited without written permission from the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute. Copyright Industry Advisory Board 52 @!2JJJ7 by the American Watcimakers-Giockmakers Institute. REC Schools 54 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Giockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Slbscrip­ tion price for the public is $98.00 per year ($6.50 per copy). Members subscription is $45.00 which is irduded with amJal dues of $98.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and COVER additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH This month's cover features the AWCI JCK Show Booth During the first week of June 2007, AWCI will be staging one of its largest publicity campaigns in recent years. The event will be in Las Vegas during the JCK Jewelry and Watch Show. This is where new jewelry and watch lines are displayed for retail jewelers. AWCI will be there with a booth in a prime location to inform visitors of our programs and goals that could be of benefit to them. Many jewelers may not know about us, so we want them to meet us and become aware of our efforts to be of assistance to them. They will see a modem watch service shop that can easily be set up in their own stores. After visiting with our BOARD OF DIRECTORS group, they will know the following: 1. Where to find experienced and certified employees. OFFICERS Dennis J. Warner, CW21: President 2 . The suggested square footage needed to operate a shop successfully. dwarner@ awci.com 3. Shop layouts and floor plans. Mark Butterworth: 1st Vice President 4. Needed tools and equipment and where to purchase them. mbutterworth@ awci.com 5. What AWCI can offer their existing watchmaker in the way of ongoing Gene Bertram, CC: 2nd Vice President gbertram@ awci.com education. Matt Henning, CW: Secretary [email protected] Chairman of the Trade Fair Booth, Henry Kessler, has asked me to request a Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: Treasurer letter of testimonial from my employer about the benefits of having a certified jkurdzionak@ awci.com watchmaker on the premises. The letter reads as follows: DIRECTORS Mark Baker, CMW Russell Korman Fine Jewelry and Watches- Austin, TX [email protected] We began our jewelry business in Austin, Texas in 1973. During the late 1980s, as Glenn D. Gardner, CMW our business grew, we expanded our inventory of Swiss watches. Over the past 20 [email protected] years we have become central Texas' largest Swiss watch ret~ler. After experiencing Roland (Ron) Iverson, CMC riverson@ awci.com many ups and downs with "contract" watchmakers, in 1999 we elected to employ James Sadilek Dennis Warner as our frrst full-time "Russell Korman Watchmaker." jsadilek@ awci.com James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW Dennis graduated from a fine watchmaking school and kept his training current jzimmerman@ awci.com by attending classes offered by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Insti­ Wes Cutter, CC: Affiliate Chapter Director tute. He also availed himself of training offered by several prestigious watch wcutter@ awci .com companies. Elbert Lewis, CMW: REC Director elewis@ awci.com Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: lAB Director When Dennis learned that AWCI was offering a nationally recognized certifica­ jkurdzionak@ awci.com tion for watchmakers, he took the examination, and was awarded the coveted

IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT title of "Certified Watchmaker 21" of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Jim Door Institute. [email protected] FELLOW This certification is recognized and endorsed by the industry and the public world­ American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute wide. It has enabled us to triple our watch repair income in only eight years, and Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee James H. Broughton Gerald G. Jaeger to attract additional high-quality Swiss watch brands including Breitling, Omega, Fred S. Burckhardt *Benjamin Matz Ebel, Tag Heuer, Tissot, Corum, Baume Mercier and others. Alice B. Carpenter Robert A. Nelson David A. Christianson *Hamilton E. Pease Our investment in an AWCI Certified Watchmaker, and our relationship with George Daniels Archie B. Perkins Wes Door Antoine Simonin various Swiss watch companies, has enabled us to become the leading Swiss *Henry B. Fried William 0. Smith, Jr. watch retail store in central Texas. We are proud to be involved with such an *Josephine F. Hagans M~ton C. Stevens outstanding organization as AWCI. *Orville R. Hagans *Marvin E. Whitney Ewell D. Hartman *Deceased Hank Korman, VP *Harold J. Herman Russell Korman Fine Jewelry and Watches

2 Horological Times June 2007 Executive On the Director's Message By James E. Lubic, CMW21 Web

AWCI2007 This month's issue is a special issue of the Horological Times. As you can see from Annual Meeting the cover, AWCI will have a booth at the JCK Show in Las Vegas, June pt through ~ & Educational the 5th. We will be located in the Hall of Time, booth number 33085. If you go to the show be sure to come by our booth and say hello. Symposium

~ This month's issue serves a dual purpose. The first is to provide you, our members, .- l _. ,:, ..r. ' . .u . - .; 1,.<· ;.·,!. ~~ " . ·. ·~ ~..; ~~ . .-- ~ -.,.,.. ·. . with up-to-date technical information, industry news, and the latest items available \ - .... -...... ~ ... - ~ - . - ' -....-, - ~ • \\. ~ ~ ...... ,-r-,- . <~ · from our advertisers, and remind you of all the benefits available to you as an AWCI member. Don't be shy when it comes to inquiring about any of these many benefits. ' . ~ '·~·n<~~ · . That's the purpose of a trade association-give you the information you need to be -ldl-.r, ..., '"',·'"" ' ,. successful in your profession, and use the numbers in our association to leverage pricing in every day needs that save you money and make your bottom line look Register online to attend http://www.awci.com/artic/es/ better every year. Annua/Meeting2007.php The second purpose of this issue is to be AWCI's marketing material at the JCK Show. Attendees of this year's show who visit our booth will be given a copy of this HT which will have answers to many of their questions. Most of the attendees will be retail jewelers, and their questions will range from "Where can I find a watchmaker?" to questions about shop size, necessary tools, and "How much should a certified watchmaker make?" And of course how to become certified and what it means to This forum assists AWCI members your business to have a certified watchmaker on staff, including how your watch­ in finding watch and clock parts and tools. Check it out at: maker can become certified. These are just a few of the questions that we look for­ http://www. watch-clockmakers. org/ ward to answering during the show. But most of all we want the watch retailers and msgbrd/index.php the professional watchmaker to be aware of AWCI and how membership is a plus to their business.

I recently received a phone call from a member in Washington State informing me of contact he recently had with a couple of individuals over the phone wanting to pur­ chase his exhausted watch cells. Without going into a lot of detail, I want to remind The Career Center was constructed you to deal with reputable companies. If it sounds too good to be true then it prob­ to help connect AWCI members ably is; as for reputable companies ... there are two such refiners that advertise in our with new employment opportunities. classified section and have been advertisers on a regular long-term basis. They are Visit http://www.jobtargetcom/ Specialty Metals Refining Company, Inc. and American Metals Company. home/index.cfm ?site_ id=317 for more information. Finally, I would like to thank the many sponsors who made this issue of the Horo­ logical Times and the Trade Fair Booth possible. There are many, and I hate to try to list them here as more sponsors continue to join our efforts.

Individually I would like to thank Henry Kessler of Sy Kessler Sales, Inc./Renata U.S. and members of his staff: Christina Aydt, Joe Delatte, and Harold Lee; Chuck The AWCI Business and Pricing Berthiaume of Rolex USA, and his staff: Bernhard Stoeber, Joy Becker, and Brian Survey provides statistics on Goss; Jules Borel and Company staff: Roger Borel, Gary Borel and Don Weber; and business expenses, rates charged by watchmakers & clockmakers, the many individuals who are volunteering to work in our booth during the course of and much more. the show.

June 2007 Horological Times 3 The gearing is called helical gearing or "Hooke gearing" after the great mathematician, philosopher and hom­ logical inventor, Dr. Robert Hooke of England (1635-1703).

In theory helical gearing would smoothly and efficiently transmit power from the mainspring by pressure and a rolling action without any slid­ ing friction or impacts (butting) be­ tween adjoining and mating gear wheel teeth. In multiplication gearing of larger machines, this works in both theory and practice, just as the com­ mon involute gearing of larger ma­ chines multiplies the gear speed from the smaller driving gear to the larger gear at the end of the train where work is performed. In the reduction gearing of horology, the speed of the gears are Question style calibre, a design that the late reduced from the larger main wheel These are pictures of an unusual watch. Adolphe Chapiro designated as a Cali­ gear to the small end gears where the Please note the number on the move­ bre IV, commonly used from 1835 to work of driving the escapement and ment matches the numbers on the case. 1850. But it is the gearing that makes oscillator is performed. These lighter, Any help would be appreciated. this watch so unusual. smaller gears near the end of the train Charles L. Smith Continued on page 25. Mocksville, NC

Answer You have a very unique watch, and by all accounts probably quite rare.

The movement plate and bridge design comprise what is known as a Lepine-

4 Horological Times June 2007 For the Latest in Watchmaker's Tools & Parts .Jhn·el visit www.JulesBorel.com click on products .Jhn·el

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June 2007 Horological Times 5 .IIttreii: '~' J CI( -----...... ~ ROLEX renata ~ a GREINER vibrografAG the swiss power source CH - 4900 Langenthal VIBROGRAF USA CORP. HOR TEC® ,_, SWISS Gesswein® ,zveJauJ z The Right Tools - . ~ -.11 ~~ot~!:l / eckcells Tools and Supplies Smce 1969 "-----' watch materials and tools SE I Z AIKE N •utttrtuorti.J ctom. Jut. WATCH BATTERY MADE IN JAPAN • e c 0 SWATCH GROUP U.S. DemUro + SUPERIOR INSTRUMENTS BAUME & MERCIER ----- GENEVE ·1830

wifSchi SY KESSLER SALES, INC. D r:.~ears of '\. / and smeg P.roducts "-/" l(aiser Tiine Inc. YVICeS C!) :HermanMiller u~ I DiifliiiiZ.tJOlO § TWINCO International Dial Co., Inc. www. watchwisdom. com 461:.•ULTRASONICS The use of the spiral hairspring with a balance wheel as a with the same period at low and high amplitudes of the method of timekeeping has proven to provide robust balance wheel when the spring is fully wound and nearly and accurate time since its inception by Dr. Hooke in run out. This error, isochronism, vexed watchmakers un­ 1610. Various methods of giving impulse to the balance til the development of the overcoil hairspring. wheel were developed-the verge, cylinder, lever, and chronometer escapements-but all rely on the hannonic The mathematics of the hairspring was intensely studied motion of a balance wheel and spiral hairspring for keep­ at the tum of the century by horologists such as Grossman, ing time. Phillips, Lossier, Airy and others. They applied calculus to the hairspring to compute its properties. Unfortunately The hairspring provides a smooth restoring force that is even today there are no simple equations that describe the proportional to the angular movement of the balance motion of the hairspring and balance wheel. Unfortunately, wheel; the more the wheel turns from its center position the motions are too complex for such analysis. Fortunately, the higher the force the spring pushes the wheel back to we have a tool unavailable to the horologists of the 19lh its initial position. This principle allows the balance wheel century-the computer. to oscillate back and forth with nearly constant frequency. The speed of the oscillation is determined by the mass of Using simulation techniques well known to engineers, the balance wheel and the stiffness of the spring by well nearly all aspects of hairsprings can be simulated, taking known formulas. into account the shape, stiffness, weight, as well as pivot friction, air resistance, and internal friction in the spring. The timekeeping deficiencies of the flat spiral hairspring The model also allows the effect of gravity to be factored were soon apparent. The flat hairspring does not vibrate in to allow computation of positional timing.

8 Horological Times June 2007 oo

Figure 1. Unlocking Figure 2. Impulse

The simulation is based on the formulas provided by to a collet. This program takes into account air friction, Hooke and Newton to calculate the movement of both the internal spring friction, pivot friction, the position of curb balance wheel and the hairspring. The computations, pins, the spacing between the curb pins, and of course, known in engineering as the method of finite differences, the shape of the hairspring. The positions of the spring involves computing the position and forces on the spring are computed every microsecond, taking about 4 hours and balance wheel in time slices every microsecond. The per computation of each point. impulse of the pallet fork on the balance wheel is simu­ lated to accurately represent the increase in energy as the Wherever possible the theory is compared to rates mea­ balance wheel rotated. This time-consuming simulation sured on actual watches. This is more challenging than it was run to simulate 10 seconds of running time, then the first appears because as the watch runs down the ticks results were analyzed. become very faint and measuring rate and balance wheel amplitude become very difficult. Simulation has the advantage that is not complicated by faults in the watch movement or escapement, and can pro­ Escapement Review vide insights that are difficult to evaluate in an actual Although the lever escapement is well known, and there movement. The computations and comparison with mea­ are many texts on the subject, we will review the escape­ surements show that calculated isochronism1 and posi­ ment from the balance wheel's point of view. tional timing agrees with general observations made by horologists in the past. However, there were several dis­ The first event is the unlocking of the escapement, shown crepancies between the calculated optimal hairspring con­ in Figure 1, at about 26° before center the impulse jewel figuration, and the configurations in common use today. strikes the fork slot of the pallet fork. Until this time the One of the most intriguing is the optimal pinning angle of balance runs free of interaction with the escapement. The the hairspring. The pinning angle is defined by three unlocking requires that some energy is transferred to the points: the point at which the hairspring leaves the collet, pallet fork to overcome the draw of the escapement, and the center of the balance staff, and the point where the also move the escape wheel backwards in slight recoil. curb pins hold the hairspring. While calculations by Lossier, Woodward, myself and others suggested that a The next event is the impulse. This occurs when the tooth 90° pinning angle was optimal, nearly all Swiss lever of the escape wheel pushes the pallet fork so that the fork movement watches are manufactured with a oo pinning slot impacts the impulse jewel and provides energy to the angle. The reason for this, which is the effect of the en­ balance wheel. As Figure 2 shows, this is normally when ergy required to unlock the escapement, can be demon­ the impulse jewel is aligned with the balance staff center strated through calculations. In addition the effect of other and the pivot of the pallet fork. However, the impulse can escapement features, such as the spacing of the curb pins, be given before or after center depending on the configu­ the common configuration of the outer coil on flat hair­ ration of the escapement. While a hammer-like impact is springs, and the effect of locking energy are explorea. desirable, the fork may push the pin and remain in contact until it is free from the fork, or as Carl Anderson once Methods described, the pin may actually strike the fork hard enough In order to study the details of hairspring motion and vi­ to accelerate the fork so that it is struck by the opposite bration a computer program was written that solves the side of the fork. 2 The balance wheel is accelerating until Newtonian equations of motion for a hairspring connected it reaches the dead center position where it has maximum

June 2007 Horological Times 9 Effect of the Pinning Angle The pinning angle of a hairspring is the angle between the point at which the hairspring leaves the collet, the center of the balance staff, and the point at which the curb pins 26° contact the hairspring. It has long been known that the pinning angle has a strong effect on the ability to keep time as the mainspring power runs out and the balance \ wheel amplitude decreases. In the model hairspring shown in Figure 5, the inner coil is at the Y axis, and the curb pins are generally aligned with this point to prove a 0° Figure 3. Locking pinning angle in modem watches.

angular velocity. The fork must move even faster than the 6 impulse jewel at this point so cleanliness and quality of oil on the pallet stones is of utmost importance. 4

The third event does not actually affect the balance, but involves the escape wheel and pallet fork. During the rest 2 of the travel of the pallet fork it is not in contact with the balance wheel. At about 26° after center the impulse jewel 0 leaves the slot of the pallet fork, as shown in Figure 3. At this time the escape wheel strikes the pallet jewel to make the characteristic locking sound. The total angle between -2 locking and unlocking, normally 52°, is the "lift angle". The actual lift angle may vary, however, based on the make of the watch and the adjustment of the escapement. -4

The oscillograph in Figure 4 illustrates this sequence by -6 the sounds. The impulse sound, near the central marker -6 -4 -2 0 2 4 6 defines the ooposition from Figure 2. The unlocking is at 26° before this point, and the locking sound is 26° after Figure 5. Modeled hairspring this point. The angle of the balance wheel changes lin­ early with time in this region, making the graphical analy­ However, previous analysis over the last century, includ­ sis accurate to 1% or better. Most timing machines will ing the original work ofLossier, and later Woodward, and compute the balance amplitude from the average time in­ Clark, have always shown that the optimal isochronism is 3 terval between the unlocking and locking sounds ; how­ provided with a pinning angle of approximately 90° for a ever, the nature of the sound waveforms for various 4 5 hairspring independent of an escapement. · These re­ watches can make it difficult to accurately measure this sults are shown in Figure 6. gap.

60 -·1-~ 7 5 ' - eeo· 40 - 8 110' >- II 20 -8270' ...... ,0 l 0 II --IUO' ~ -20 - 815' - 8210' -40 - - t 21$' -60 0 100 200 300 400 Balance Wheal Rotation (degrees)

Figure 6. Rate and amplitude vs. run time for various pinning Figure 4. Oscillograph of a lever escapement angles without effect of escapement

10 Horologicat Times June 2007 20 The simple explanation, elaborated further in this article, is that the effect of the escapement changes the properties 0 ,...... ~ ...... ···~... +90" of the theoretical hairspring to change the optimum pin­ ..~...... ~ ~· ';., ning angle. The most important effect of the escapement -20 is that a small amount of energy is taken from the balance "'0 I "--·--·~...... ··· Vi ·'# wheel for unlocking. This tiny amount of energy makes -40 j ~~~~ i ; ~· ...... enough difference to completely change the calculated re­ a:ltl 'f •. ~# ~goo sults, and bring them into agreement with the observed be­ -60 ': , #. :i ..I havior. Figure 7 shows the computed rates including the ef­ t• I • : I fect of unlocking. The oo pinning point is close to optimal ~0 ! , I / for continuously good rates over the run of the mainspring. -100 100 200 300 400 This behavior has been verified on a modem ETA move­ Amplitude. degrees ment by various adjustments of the escapement. The fol­ lowing charts of observed balance wheel amplitude vs. Figure 7. Computed rate vs. amplitude for various pinning rate were made in this laboratory. The rates are adjusted angles, with escapement unlocking energy in the graphs to begin at 0 s/d even though the actual tim­ ing was dramatically fast or slow due to the adjustments. In Figure 8 the regulator and curb pins were removed to Obviously, a 0° pinning angle has been found to give bet­ provide a pinning angle of -90°. ter performance in practice and therefore it has been adopted into general use for the Swiss lever escapement. In Figure 9 the regulator was adjusted to provide a pin­ However the discrepancy between the theoretical and ning angle of about +60°, again giving a curve agreeing observed behavior has rarely been investigated. with the theoretical behavior shown in Figure 7.

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June 2007 Horological Times 11 60

. 80 --, 40 • • • • • • • •• • 20 60 --l • • • ~ • • • •• • :g 0 •• • • V'l <:• ' ~· • • 2:l -20 ... ~ 40 •• 10 Q) l • • • • t 0::: ....ca 20 -40 • • a:: ~ ·.. •• ··~.. . -60 • • • 0 ~ • • -80 -20 100 150 200 250 300 350 100 150 200 250 300 350 Amplitude Amplitude, degrees

Figure 8. Observed rate vs. amplitude, negative pinning angle Figure 10. Observed rate vs. amplitude, normal adjustment

20

20 0

-20 "C Ill "0 - II) i • -2. 0 ltl -40 • • a:: , • a::ca 1'\ •• .. ~ -60 ~ . ..~ . :·• .. -20 -80 ·~ • 0 50 100 200 300 400 Running time, hours Amplitude, degrees Figure 9. Observed rate vs. amplitude, positive pinning angle Figure 11. Observed rate vs. running time

In Figure 10 the regulator was adjusted to provide the pressure on the balance staff, but to allow adjustment of correct timing and beat which is -SO, again giving a curve the pinning angle. If the overcoil is moved the pinning agreeing with the theoretical behavior shown in Figure 7. angle is changed and the watch must be brought back into beat. It is this adjustment that provides a means to bring The observed curves indicate that with careful adjustment the watch to isochronal timekeeping. the rate can be made very constant over a large range of amplitudes. Figure 11 shows that the adjustment reflected Thus with the inclusion of the escapement the important in Figure 10 affords an isochronism of 2 s/d or less. factors for simulating hairspring behavior have been iden­ tified and shown to provide a reliable basis for evaluating This study is for a flat hairspring. My studies suggest that adjustments of watches. The remainder of this article will the main function of the overcoil is not to lessen side delve more deeply into these and other adjustments.

12 Horological Times June 2007 40 moves farther from the center due to the extended outer 30 coil, as compared to the spiral hairspring shown in Figure 20 13. In these Figures the hairspring is colored by strain, 10 red being the lowest and blue the highest strain. The '3:!. ..."'Gl., 0 motion of the center of gravity is magnified by 10 to make cr: -10 it more apparent.

-20 Analysis of the strain on overcoiled hairsprings confirms -30 that the overcoil reduces strain or makes it more evenly -40 0 so 100 1SO 200 250 300 350 distributed, and substantially decreases the movement of Amplitude the center of gravity, as shown in Figure 15.

Figure 12. Comparison of isochronism of spiral and standard hairsprings Part 2 will continue next month. Acknowledgements Effect of the Outer Coil Shape Wit Jarochowski for advice and watch movements. Most modern flat hairsprings feature an extended arc for the • Robert Porter for suppling materials about The Institute of last 90" or so of the spring, as illustrated in Figure 5. The Oscillographic Horology. principle reason for this is to allow clearance for the curb Jim Lubic and the AWCI for encouragement and technical pins. The coil must be extended so that the body of the hair­ support. spring does not contact the curb pins when the hairspring is fully unwound in operation. In addition, this portion of the References I. Isochronism - the ability of a watch to keep the same rate spring must be circular, not spiral, so that the motion of the over 24 hours or more starting with a fully wound main­ regulator pins does not move the hairspring. spring.

In addition to the mechanical convenience, this extension 2. Anderson, Carl. The Institute of Oscillographic Horology: also in itself reduces the error due to isochronism as com­ Lessons. 1956. pared to a spiral hairspring. In Figure 12 the computed performance of the normal flat hairspring with an extended 3. Clark, Matthew. "The Sounds of the Watch," Horological outer coil is compared to a pure spiral hairspring. Times, March 2001.

This simple feature reduces the isochronal error by about 4. Clark, Matthew. "The Mathematics of the Hairspring," Horological Times, February-April, 2000. 30% over a pure spiral hairspring. 5. Woodward, P. "The Hairspring and the Computer," Hom­ The position and movement of the center of gravity of the logical Journal, pp. 264-266, 1995. hairspring has long been examined for insight into tim­ ing, especially positional timing.6 As Figure 14 shows by 6. For example see DeCarie, Donald. Practical Watch Adjust- the yellow path traced by the center of gravity, the center ing. Colchester UK: NAG Press, p. 105, 1987. 0

Figure 13. Motion of center of gravity for Figure 14. Motion of center of gravity for Figure 15. Motion of center of gravity for spiral hairspring, in yellow standard hairspring, in yellow an overcoiled hairspring, in yellow

June 2007 Horological Times 13 As a writer for Horological Times and, ing for the well-known first and foremost, as a watchmaker, I maker and supplier of try to arrange my visits to Switzerland complications for the in­ in such a way that I am not only re­ dustry, Christophe Claret porting on interesting watches and ( 1998-200 I). With noted watchmakers, but that I am also in­ watchmakers, John and Stephen creasing my own watchmaking knowl­ McGonigle, he assembled and finished "kits" (unfinished movements, re­ edge and adding new skills and tech­ tourbillons, minute repeaters, carillon ceived as individual parts, that are ad­ niques for my own work. It is with the repeaters, perpetual calendars, etc., and justed, finished, assembled, tested and above in mind that l visited a friend's also participated in the prototyping of sometimes cased) for several Swiss Neuchatel workshop, with HT con­ some well known movements during brands on a contracted basis. While a tributor, Ian Skellem. his time with Claret. comfortable living is to be had by building complicated watches for the Clas-Henrik Pihl (known to all as Pihl Seeing the demand the Swiss watch­ brands, Pihl has the desire to make [pronounced "peel"], except for maybe making industry has for highly skilled watches of his own design. A design his mother) is a Swedish trained watch­ watchmakers capable of building and that began when he was a watchmak­ maker who has been living and work­ servicing complicated watches, he ing student was being prototyped at the ing in Switzerland for nearly a decade. opened his own workshop where he time of this writing. His time in CH has been spent work- assembles and finishes complicated

14 Horological Times June 2007 A sneak peek and indication of his phi­ losophy and high standards of crafts­ manship, as well as fulfilling the pre­ viously mentioned requirements for "interesting watches and watchmak­ ers" and "increasing my own watch­ making knowledge and adding new skills and techniques for my own work," Pihl made an hour hand for his watch during our visit. He explains, "Being very experienced with making and finishing movement parts, I also want to bring this level of finish and conception to the other parts of the watches I make. The hour hand could be a symbol of this philosophy, being finished with methods and to a quality normally reserved for movement parts: straight graining, straight beveling (as opposed to rounded beveling), bersage (the rounded surface between the hub square them off, but and the blade/body of the hand), mir­ Pihl respects the tra­ ror polishing (of course), heat bluing ditions of watch­ and hand engraving." making and is a craftsman, so these Hand Made areas are deftly ad­ Pihl's watch is an original construction dressed. With the and fittingly so too are the hands. The hand being held se­ hour hand has the look of the business curely in a small end of a fountain pen and is quite nice precision vise, and a - and a first, I believe. To expedite the Degussit stone in process the hand "blanks" have been hand, he begins the CNC milled by a friend out of silver fine, detailed shap­ steel leaving Pihl the task of crafting ing that identifies the final shape and finish. extraordinary work. After "cleaning up" these areas they The first step is the bersage, which is are tidied with some diamond paste. the rounding of the small flat section between the main body of the hand and It is now time to harden and temper the hub. This is accomplished on the the annealed (soft) hand (heat treating, Schaublin 70 lathe. Gluing the rough among other things, gives the hand the hand blank to a milled flat on a brass required stiffness and allows it to take rod, the correct curvature is obtained on a high level of finish). Using a by slowly turning the chucked piece flame, the hand is heated to a red color by hand. The hand blank is .40 mm in and quickly quenched. The hand is thickness - a tenth of a millimeter is now, if done correctly, dead or glass removed to give the desired shape. hard. This means it is very hard, but Because the hand blanks are milled, brittle, like glass. Tempering requires there is a small radius where the slowly heating the hardened hand, thus bersage and the body of the hand meet, removing some of its hardness and as well as where the bersage and hub leaving it tougher (i.e., it won't easily meet. This radius is quite small, small break). The hand is tempered to violet enough in fact that I imagine most color and cleaned. watchmakers would not bother to

June 2007 Horological Times 15 Step 4: Top Right: Top hat and hour hand are tempered to a deep blue color. Above: Top hat is staked onto hour hand. Right: Mirror polishing the flat of the hour hand.

Hand Finished the bevel, which is a The back of the hand is straight straight bevel, and needs grained. The sides of the hand are to be even throughout. smoothed and finished with diamond After the bevel is created, paste and a soft steel disc is used on it is smoothed with several the hub, which will be fitted later with grades of polishing paper a "top hat"-a traditional cover that fits and then finished with pegwood and Future inside the hub and is made from a bit diamond paste. Clas Henrik Pihl is an artist -craftsman, of steel rod that is drilled and turned of which there are very few these days on the Schaublin 70. The hour hand and top hat are now who have the mechanical understand­ brought to a proper blue color, via a ing, hand skills and artistic sensibili­ The bersage is now finished using sev­ hot plate. After this final heat treatment ties that he possesses. If one takes into eral grades of polishing paper followed the hand is cleaned and the flat of the account the time he is devoting to the by diamond paste applied with main body is now ready to be finished. finishing of the hour hand, which takes pegwood. This leaves an exception­ First, several grades of polishing pa­ half a day or more, and the first -class ally fine finish. Bevelling around the per are used to smooth and level the quality of the end result ... well, watch edges of the hour hand's body is now surface so it will easily take a black enthusiasts, be prepared for expertly executed with diamond files to create or mirror polish. With the hand fixed crafted watches that are not only beau­ to a bolt tool the hour hand is moved tiful, but are unique and technically about in a circular motion interesting. on a tin block, with diamantine as the medium * Pihl may be contacted via his web­ of choice. A constant pres­ site www.chpwatches.com. sure, with constant clean­ ing and patience, eventu­ Curtis D. Thomson restores complicated ally yields a spectacular watches and clocks in Walpole, New finish. The top hat is now Hampshire, and also moderates the AHCI carefully fitted in place us­ discussion board on thePurists.com. ing a staking tool. . . hand "Hand Made, Hand Finished" is reprinted finished! with the permission of Curtis Thomson and International Watch magazine. 0

16 Horological Times June 2007 Arizona Indiana Ohio Davis, Jesse E.-Sierra Vista, AZ Dick, John A.-Greencastle, IN Sagri, Steven-Newbury, OH Schlotter, Timothy J.-Kendallville, IN* California Texas Semain, Wayne-Pasadena, CA Maryland Cole, Alan A.~Goliad , TX Walter, Robert Lynn-Manhattan Beach, Halliburton, Rupert A.-Greenbelt, MD* Tongson, Ted, Jr.-Austin, TX* CA* Wight, Walter-Mokelumne Hill, CA Michigan Virginia Allison, Jim-Trenton, Ml DeAvila, David-Lynchburg, VA Colorado Hamilton, Jeffrey Ray-Warren, Ml Goodman, Edward-Hampton, VA Schulz, Tim A.-Boulder, CO Lincke, Eric T. , CEWT -Marquette, Ml* Washington Connecticut Missouri Bacon, Louis Archie-Puyallup, WA DiBona, Paul James-Norwalk, CT* Hunt, Carl W.-{)ak Grove, MO Czuchta, Sam-Coupeville, WA Rutledge, Glenn, CW-Marshfield, MO* Florida *AWCI welcomes back these Mendelsohn, Howard-Boca Raton, FL North Carolina individuals who have chosen to re­ Payne, Donnie-Greensboro, NC instate their membership. Illinois Watts, Robert E.-Chocowinity, NC Davidson, Scott-Naperville, IL Disher, Daniel-Aurora, IL

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June 2007 Horological Times 17 Certification-What It's all About!

Over the years AWCI has tried to stand out as a leader for applied to the quality of instruction for both the repair the professional horologist. In 2004, however, they began and restoration practices that are taught worldwide to a new journey into an educational arena to help the mem­ watch and clockmakers." bership rise to an even higher level. What caused these changes? In the late 1990s the AWCI President felt the So, what's the big deal? It is well known that the number organization needed to have a more defined direction. He of practicing watch and clockmakers is in serious decline. set up a new Strategic Planning Committee composed of Even worldwide watch manufacturers are very concerned individuals from the membership who were directly in­ that they will not have the necessary cadre of qualified volved with bench work as a livelihood. From this com­ technicians to carry on their businesses if something isn't mittee arose a mission statement which now guides the done to change this balance. But, running a school is a organization and gave rise to the redesigning of the Edu­ very costly proposition. Our trade is not a simple one, and cation and Certification Committees and their programs. as one professional described it to me, "tough to get the What was this statement and why was it so important? needed education from a single source." And what, ex­ actly, is it we expect our bench professionals to be able to "AWCI is the premier professional, international organi­ do? Talk with three technicians and you will get four ways zation dedicated to preserving and promoting the highest to do the same thing. Which way is the best? By what standards of workmanship in the horological crafts. It is criteria do we judge it the best? Is this what the industry the role of AWCI to set the standard of excellence to be needs, or what the customer needs, or both?

18 Horological Times June 2007 The clock industry has had even more difficulties. The practitioners who could not make a living. Like any other end of the 1980s saw the loss of most of our major move­ trade, knowing what to charge is paramount, but without ment manufacturers. Now in the 21 '1 Century, we have in professionalism, how does the customer separate you from the USA only one remaining major clock manufacturer the "fix-it specialists?" Professionalism is a lot like mar­ and really only two movement manufacturers producing keting-you never get a second chance to make a first movements. Add to that the years of poor repairs that have impression. The point here is that with proper skills, tech­ left much of our horological history in deplorable condi­ niques, knowledge and professionalism, our trade can pro­ tion, needing even more skills to return them back to their vide a secure, lifetime income. But look carefully at these original quality of performance. Here it was only too ap­ points and you will notice that none of these items parent that change, regardless of how uncomfortable, must will be sufficient without the others-for clockmakers or begin, and soon, if we are not to truly become the last of a watchmakers. dying breed! How does all this fit together? With the S & Ps, we have To begin these changes, bench practitioners were ques­ an accepted set of skills we can acquire. Where or how tioned as well as the membership of AWCI's lAB (Indus­ you acquire them is not as important as to how well you try Advisory Board) for skill listings for watch and can perform them. Performance is the key. But perform­ clockmakers. These lists were studied, debated, then scru­ ing these techniques for yourself without checking them tinized and set into two documents, now called the Stan­ against a standard and a peer review of professionals lacks dards and Practices for 21" Century Watchmakers and giving you or your client the needed assurance. How do Clockmakers. These two documents were built to be the you know that the way you fit a staff, adjust a watch, or cornerstones of the Institute and the guide for any profes­ set up the warnings in a clock is correct? Try passing an sional to use to bring him/herself up to world-class stan­ exam that was developed by your peer professionals based dards. After 700+ years, we now have a written, workable on those S & Ps. If you pass it, you have the skills! If not, guide as to what it takes to be a professional, and a listing you will soon know what you must do to grow to that of the needed skills the person must be able to execute. level. With that growth will come the confidence, and with At that, these are not static documents that will never the confidence coupled with the skills will come better change. It is that lack of change that hurts our industry the pay. It's all linked together. What gives a customer solid most. It is an old but true adage that if a business does not confidence is seeing that the person to whom they have constantly grow, it will fail to produce enough income to brought their prized possession has taken an extra step to support itself as costs rise. Industry is no dif- ferent. The only thing we can be sure of is change. (Check out a recent copy of Horo­ logical Times for examples of this very point.) It is for these reasons that the documents were developed to be changed as industry produces new designs and constructions.

I've spoken with hundreds of practitioners and I find a direct relationship between the complainers who can't seem to make enough money at their benches and their lack of, or poor quality, bench skills. Horology is a trade of skill, knowledge and professionalism. The more knowledge and skill efficiency you have, the better income you can generate.

The professional component is necessary for customer confidence. I have met tremendous

June 2007 Horological Times 19 sales person (Watch Specialist) to be more knowledgeable about the products, their fea­ tures and operation, and help with in-store coordination of re­ pairs. The other is for a more technical person (Watch Tech­ nician) who is interested in learning how to change batter­ ies, adjust bands, install crys­ tals in certain brands, etc., and in some models even replace a movement with a new one and adjust the watch to manufacturer's specifications. For those interested in clocks, there is also a new program under development for the per­ son (Clock Associate) who wants to work in a clock shop as counter help or as an assis- tant to a clockmaker. Check out our website to learn more: show he/she has the needed qualities for their product. www.awci.com. You will find copies of the Standards You know, the manufacturers feel the same way! and Practices there as well! Talk to us! Join us!

Can you blame a manufacturer that makes high-quality (Editors Note: As of this writing, the Certified Clockmaker timepieces for demanding that their products are properly assessment (CC21) is in its final piloting stages and should cared for after they have been in service? Benchmen talk, be ready for formal applications in early September 2007.) but can they perform? They buy equipment, but can they 0 use it properly? Do they maintain it so it gives consistent results? How do we tell "fix-it" people from craftsmen? How can the manufacturers tell this very same thing?

The answers seem clear. CERTIFY! Prove yourself and see if it doesn't help your bottom line. Study the appropri­ ateS & P, contact AWCI and show us your stuff. Have you passed an old AWI Certification? There are upgrades to help serve your needs as well. Check it out!

Keep up withAWCI as we develop even more certifications to help those who may have an interest in one area or the other but are not ready to become bench practicing watch and clockmakers. We are in the developmental stages of two new programs for the watch industry. One is designed to educate the watch

20 Horological Times June 2007 June 11-15, 2007 Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe June 25-29, 2007 Precision Timing and Adjustment July 9-13, 2007 Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing and Adjusting August 27-31, 2007 Modern Automatic Watch Repair September 24-28, 2007 Vintage Chronographs - Bernhard Stoeber, Instructor October 22-26, 2007 Basic Watch Repair, Servicing and Adjusting November 5-9, 2007 Introduction to Basic Quartz Watches and Quartz Chronographs January 7-11, 2008 Watchmaker's Lathe I January 14-18, 2008 Watchmaker's Lathe II February 4-8, 2008 Basic Watch Repair February 11-15, 2008 Servicing and Adjusting the Lever Escapement March 3-7, 2008 Precision Timing and Dynamic Poising March 10-14, 2008 Modern Automatic Watches April 7-11, 2008 Basic Quartz Watch and Quartz Chronograph Repair April 14-18, 2008 Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing and Adjusting

August 13-16, 2007 Saint Paul College Saint Paul, MN

August 27-30, 2007 Lititz Watch Technicum Lititz, PA

September 4-7, 2007 North Seattle Community College Seattle, WA

October 8-11 , 2007 Oklahoma State University Okmulgee, OK

January 28-31, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH

February 25-28, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH

March 24-27, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH

April 28 - May 1, 2008 AWCI Training Facility Harrison, OH

June 2007 Horological Times 21 The Professional Horologist The Board of Examiners: Who are they? And what do they do?

Let's say you have a child in high school and you want finally, do you believe that the scoring on this test was her to go to college. It's a certainty that her high school completely impartial on the part of those who built the will require her to take an examination called the SAT test, administered it, and scored it? because most colleges require this (or the ACT). She takes the examination under carefully controlled conditions. Her Most likely, your answer is yes. You trust the "system" to work is then sent to a scoring center, such as ETS (Educa­ be impartial, the constructors of the test to be measuring tional Testing Services), in New Jersey. At the end of the the right things, the administrators of the test to be com­ scoring process, you and her school counselor will get a pletely honest, and the scoring to be totally "blind." In number back - usually one each for verbal skills, math­ other words those who score the exam know nothing about ematics, and verbal expression. The number will range your child, other than what the evidence (examination) between 200 and 800. presents to them. The number generated is unbiased.

What do you really know about these numbers? More than The key point here comes~from the words ~impartial," likely, like most parents, you know only that if the num­ "honest," "blind," and "unbiased." ber is high, that's a good thing, and if it's low, it's not. Maybe you even paid for one of those high-priced SAT Please note: I'm oversimplifying a lot here. But after re­ preparation courses for your child. You do know the score ceiving the MIT Nerd award at our AWCI national meet­ has something to do with college entrance requirements. ing, and hearing "I don't know what you said, but it sounded good," I feel obligated to make a statement here Now, I'd like to put another question in front of you. Do which is perfectly clear to everyone. you trust this score to be correct? Do you trust the person who administered the test to your child to have been fair In order for AWCI certification examinations to achieve and impartial? Do you believe that the score is probably the level of trust which most individuals automatically an accurate reflection of your child's achievement? And assign to an examination like the SAT, it is essential that

22 Horological Times June 2007 the content, structure, administration, and scoring of our What are the requirements to be a member of the assessments be seen in the same way. BOE? Members are appointed by the AWCI Board of Di­ This is why we have a Board of Examiners. rectors. The AWCI Education Committee recommends candidates for the BOE. Two years ago, when the AWCI Board of Directors adopted the Official Standards and Practices for 21st Cen­ • Members of the BOE must be members of AWCI, tury Watchmakers, it officially established the Board of and have a minimum of 8 years bench experience as Examiners as well. horologists/educators.

While the official language that was adopted is somewhat What is the makeup of the BOE? tedious, I'll attempt to paraphrase here for the sake of sim­ • The BOE consists of at least 5 members with one in­ plicity. I would like to stress before going into this de­ dividual designated as Chief Examiner (who is reimbursed scription, that all questions regarding assessment and scor­ for his/her services by AWCI). ing should be directed to the BOE. • Two members of the BOE are assessment/content spe­ AWCI Board of Examiners cialists in clockmaking.

What is the official function of the BOE? • Two members of the BOE are assessment/content spe­ • To oversee all AWCI certification and assessment pro­ cialists in watchmaking. cesses (watch and clock), including construction, admin­ istration, and scoring of candidate assessments. • The horological industry must be represented on the BOE. This industry representative is a non-voting member.

June 2007 Horological Times 23 • Select and train Certified Scorers, individuals with the appropriate background and skills to score candi­ date performance.

What is the length of BOE term of service? • Members will serve for five years, with terms which overlap.

• The Chief Examiner will serve an indefmite term, as determined by lbe AWCI Board of Directors, who will When does the Board meet? conduct a performance or personnel evaluation every two • The Board meeiS twice a year, concurrently with the years. mid-year Board of Directors meeting, and the annual pri­ r mary Board of Directors meeting. Who are the Current Examiners? (Members of the Board) l. • The Board may also communicate or discuss minor Currently the BOB consists of the following AWCI issues via e-mail or telephone at other times during the members: year. Jack Kurdzionak, CW21- Watchmaking Joe Schrader, CMW21- Watchmaking What does the Board do? Jerry Faier, CMC- Clockmaking The BOB has a number of duties, including: Jim LaChapelle, CMC - Clockmaking Bernhard Stoeber, CW21 -Industry Representative • Assign examiners to regions, schools, or examination Vincent Schrader, CMW21- Chief Examiner sites as the need is determined through the central offices of AWCI. This is the summation of the BOB and its responsibilities. As AWCI grows, and its certifications continue to be • Construct examinations which reflect appropriate 21st modernized, the group's responsibilities will be highly Century content, skills and proficiencies. critical to success.

• Be responsible for the reliability and validity of AWCI The Board of Examiners is comparable to the College assessments. Board, which oversees the SAT. It is a separate entity which uses its "separateness" to oversee the construction of as­ • Approve changes in examinations for use for each sessments such as the SAT and be fully impartial. Ar some testing year (which coincides with AWCI's fiscal year). point, theAWCI's Board of Examiners will have to sever ties with the Education Committee iLl order to achieve the • Supervise the preparation of examinations, and be re­ same credibility. The American National Standards Insti­ sponsible for qualified oversight of examinations as they tute (ANSI) and the International Standards Organization are conducted and of the examinations when they are (ISO) make this a fundamental requirement for qualiti.ca­ scored. tion of their member organizations.

• Select and train Certified Examiners, individuals with The purpose of this separateness is to isolate the testing, appropriate background and skills to conduct assessments administration, and scoring processes (fairness) from the in a systematic manner as outlined in the BOB policy and shifting politics which are inevitable in any organization. training manual. 0

24 Horological Times June 2007 Questions & Answers Continued from page 4 do not permit the constant contacting pres­ sure needed for helical gearing. Dust and foreign matter would settle on the gear teeth, "ultimately forming a layer that gives rise to adhesion between those sur­ faces" of the mating gear teeth as Saunier reported in his Treatise on Modern Horology. timepieces that is less efficient, noisier but Claudius Saunier's Treatise is one of the it indicates that it was implemented in is definitely far more self-cleaning, a char­ very first scientific text books on horol­ watches for a time and then abandoned acteristic essential to the reduction-type ogy written in 1861. The fact that he writes before he wrote his text ... abandoned in gearing needed to take the power of the about helical gearing and then dismisses favor of the common cycloidal gearing of mainspring down to the intermittent start­ stop-start action of the escapement.

With the information from Saunier and the style of the movement plate and bridges, I can date your very interesting watch within the second quarter of the 19th century.

Send your questions and photos to: Ques­ tions & Answers, c/o Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 or e-mail to: [email protected]. 0

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June 2007 Horological Times 25 Standards and Practices of 21st Century Watchmakers and Clockmakers

AWCI's Certification program is a cul­ pertinent to the modem practice of ho­ assessment, certification, and ongoing mination of the efforts of many dedi­ rology. In other words, what should a practice, it is imperative that AWCI, cated horologists who realize the need modem watchmaker or clockmaker through the agreement of its expert for a standard in certification which know? members, in concert with business and addresses the technological changes in industry, set forth these standards, and today's horological industry. "Skills" refers to the demonstration of demand that its membership abide by this knowledge through various types them proudly. AW CI' s Certification Designations of performance. Thus, whether we include: speak of replacing a watch battery, or 21st Century Certification Watch Specialist cutting a balance staff on a lathe, re­ Assessments Watch Technician searching information for technical All certification levels of the AWCI Certified Watchmaker 21 specifications for a watch movement, must be achieved through a demonstra­ Certified Master Watchmaker 21 or tempering steel, or replacing a clock tion of knowledge, skills and disposi­ Clock Associate pivot, resetting a depthing using a tions as deemed appropriate for each Certified Clockmaker 21 bushing, cutting a custom bushing on level of certification. Certified Master Clockmaker 21 the lathe, researching information for a historical restoration, or tempering 1. Written Assessments AWCI's Certified Watchmaker 21 ex­ steel, we are referring to what a watch­ The written assessments will address amination program is accepting appli­ maker or clockmaker must be able to the knowledge, skills and dispositions cants. All other designations are in the do with his/her knowledge. as listed and described in the Standards development stage or pilot testing and Practices. stage. "Dispositions" refers to the exhibition of a behavior of professionalism, and 2. Performance Assessments Complete information on all designa­ addresses such topics as ethics, atti­ Good performance examinations re­ tions is available on AWCI's website tudes toward quality of service, clean­ quire actual conditions, actual materi­ (www.awci.com). The Standards and liness of workplace, and attitudes con­ als, and as much "real life" quality as Practices of 21st Century Watchmak­ sistent with a high degree of can be built into the examinations. ers and the Standards and Practices of professionalism. Certified watchmakers must work on 21st Century Clockmakers are available real timepieces, hopefully with their for download. The term "proficiency" is used often. own tools, in a solid and secure envi­ This is a general term used to itemize ronment, with informed guidance as to AWCI's Standards of Excellence or "detail" (break into smaller compo­ the expectations of AWCL To this end The standards of performance ex­ nents) a specific standard and fre­ 21'1 Century timepieces will be used pressed in the S & Ps represent the quently will involve the combining of wherever pertinent to the standards. agreed upon knowledge, skills, perfor­ knowledge, dispositions, and skill mances, and dispositions required of demonstrations in a single statement. The time required for performance ex­ the watchmaker or clockmaker of the One might think of the proficiency ams may vary by the type of examina­ 21st Century, if he/she is to attain certi­ statements here as expressions of what tion (for example, the current CW and fication status and be accorded this des­ a watch/clockmaker should "know and CMW examination time allocation is ignation by the American Watchmak­ be able to do." 3.5 days, approximately 33 hours). As ers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI). mentioned above, the written exami­ As an organization that professes to nation will require an additional 2-3 In brief, "Knowledge" refers to the bear the highest standards for watch­ hours. content or body of information making or clockmaking education,

26 Horological Times June 2007 Watch Specialist (WS) Watch Technician (WT) In Development In Development

An individual with this certificate must be proficient in provid­ This certification level is awarded to individuals proficient in ing service pertaining to the exterior of the watch case and brace­ service that involves opening the case for entire movement ex­ let, is knowledgeable about manufacturers, types of watches, change, exchanging electronic and mechanical-movements, dial functions and setting, si~ple battery changes (non-water making minor timing adjustments, waterproofing, and water­ resistant cases), and water resistance testing. proof testing.

Knowledge and Performances Knowledge and Performances The individual will be granted a certificate of completion after This individual will be granted certification after a demonstrating the knowledge and performance of the following: demonstration of the following knowledge, skills, and Watch batteries dispositions: Watch bands Watch batteries Watch gaskets Watch gaskets Watch casing Watch casing Product know ledge Product knowledge General diagnostic knowledge General diagnostic knowledge

Pathways Pathways Watch Specialist may be achieved by: Watch Technician may be achieved by: a. Correspondence courses a. AWCI Academy of Watchmaking courses b. AWCI Academy of Watchmaking courses b. Approved REC school courses c. Courses conducted by approved AWCI instructors c. Courses conducted by approved AWCI instructors d. On-site/job training at approved AWCI locations d. Tutoring under the instruction of an AWCI­ e. Internet Training through the AWCI _website approved instructor, who will possess either a CW orCMW

Certified Watchmaker (CW21)

This certification level is awarded to individuals profi­ cient in service that involves opening the case for entire movement exchange, exchanging electronic and me­ chanical movements, making minor timing adjustments, waterproofing, and waterproof testing.

The Certified Watchmaker 21 (CW21) services prima­ rily watches of modem and recent production where spare parts are available, according to manufacturer specified service procedures and requirements. He/She is capable of making basic components (e.g., staffs and stems and is able to modify replacement parts in order to fit them into a movement or watch). He/She must as­ cribe to all of the standards and practices outlined in the AWCI Code of Ethics.

June 2007 Horological Times 27 Essential Knowledge Essential Performances 1. Principals of modern casing The Certified Watchmaker will be able perform the 2. Physics of the modern balance and hairspring following: 3. Metallurgy and metal treatments for hardness/temper, awareness of new alloys and Mechanical Timepiece 4. Principals of quartz and electronic component timepieces General movement service 5. Basic wheel and gearing mathematics and train Casing calculations Movement service 6. Physics of power transmission Calendar mechanism 7. Knowledge of the modern jeweled lever escapement Automatic wind mechanism 8. Gearing and depthing 9. Bearing materials and tolerances Quartz Analog Timepiece 10. Twenty-first century tools, materials and their use General movement service 11. Principles of modern lubrication, including: Initial service a. Viscosity Movement service b. Capillary movement of lubricants Nonfunctional movements c. Static vs. dynamic friction Calendar movements d. Causes of lubricant breakdown Troubleshooting e. Effects of over lubricating vs. under lubricating Casing and movement exchange 12. Types of lubricants and their application 13. Chronograph mechanisms and the function of components Modern Chronographs • General movement service General Movement Service • Casing "General movement service" refers to the care of a time­ piece by the Certified Watchmaker that was at one time Essential Dispositions referred to as "putting a watch in good order or "per­ The Certified Watchmaker, in adhering to AWCI Professional forming an overhaul." Standards and Practices, demonstrates the following: 1. Strong commitment to systematic shop practices Watchmakers of the 21" Century are aware that during 2. Maintenance of a clean and professional work environment this new age we must make a differentiation among "re­ 3. Consideration of safety and environmental concerns, toxic pair," "restoration," and "preservation." The "repairer" solutions and compounds, their handling and disposal performs services to timepieces which succeed in mak­ 4. Adherence to a professional (AWCI) code of ethics ing the timepiece function effectively. This is done in 5. Willingness to document and warranty professional services an ethical and workmanlike manner. However "repair" 6. Commitment to advancement of professional knowledge may well not refer to the concept of "restoration," which 7. Commitment to professional standards, quality horologi­ implies returning a timepiece completely to its original, cal education, and continual growth of professional knowledge as new, condition. To the extent possible, 21'1 Century 8. Commitment to investment in brand-specific training as watchmakers will endeavor to accomplish restoration offered by industry, manufacturers, and AWCI. to original specifications in their "repair," but with the caveat that modern manufacturing processes and tech­ Pathways nological changes have created serious obsolescence 21" Century Certified Watchmaker (CW21) may be achieved by: problems, particularly in the manufacture of quartz mod­ 1. Formal training in a course of study approved by the AWCI ules. To recreate an "original" is virtually impossible in Board of Directors as recommended by the Education Com­ modem times. mittee and Board of Examiners and completion of the CW21 examination, or The critical function of performing true restoration and 2. Graduate of a WOSTEP 3000-hour training program and preservation of timepieces is the ultimate responsibility by passing the chronograph section of the current AWCI 21'1 of horologists AWCI has certified as Certified Master Century Certified Watchmaker examination and passing the Watchmakers (CMW21) and Certified Masters of the written portion of the current AWCI CW21 exam, or Institute (CMI). These must be the individuals to whom 3. Education in an approvedAWCI (REC) school and comple­ the stewardship of horological knowledge, skills and tion of the CW21 examination, or practices, must fall. It is hoped that many CW21s will 4. Holding a current AWl Certified Watchmaker Certifica­ aspire to these levels of professional attainment. tion AND by passing the chronograph section of the current AWCI 21'1 Century Certified Watchmaker examination and

28 Horological Times June 2007 passing the written portion of the current AWCI CW21 exam. (Those who hold theAWI CMW will be upgraded to the AWCI 21" Century CMW Certificate upon pass­ ing these same requirements.)

5. Those holding the AWI CEWT and/or CMEW may receive upgrading to the AWCI 21" Century CW Certi­ fication by passing the current written exam, the mi­ cro-mechanical portion, the auto wind sections, and the chronograph sections of the AWCI 21 '1 Century Watch­ maker examination. In summary, by taking all but the quartz section of the AWCI 21 '1 Century examination.

All of the aforementioned must include: • Turning (basic lathe) • Movement adjustment/oiling • Escapements • Oscillators (balance wheel and hairspring)

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June 2007 Horological Times 29 b. Re-pivot pinion arbors Certified Master Watchmaker c. Make a new stem to match original design from bar (CMW21) stock d. Vibrate a new hairspring (dynamically) for a balance In Development wheel e. Fabricate a replacement set bridge The Certified Master Watchmaker possesses the professional 3. Case work: knowledge to service a wide range of timepieces (e.g. compli­ a. Fabricate a pendant bow cated watches, vintage pieces). He/She needs to be able to de­ b. Fit case springs, pendant sleeves and crystals sign spare parts and manufacture them. He/She has advanced 4. Polish a variety of horological metals and components communication and interaction skills for the purpose of train­ 5. Preserve or create artistic casing, damascening, gilding, ing watchmakers in preparing for the CW21 exam. He/She must engraving, machine turning, etc. model AWCI's code of ethics in all of his/her dealings. The 21" Century Certified Master Watchmaker is a "Steward" of the Essential Dispositions science and art of horology, and is dedicated to the highest ide­ The 21" Century Certified Master Watchmaker, in adhering to als of the profession and to the care and perpetuation of the AWCI Professional Standards and Practices, will demonstrate the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. following: 1. Strong commitment to systematic shop practices CMW21 Prerequisites 2. Maintenance of a clean and professional work Candidates must have held CW21 status for three years environment and have attended additional AWCI courses or approved train­ 3. Consideration of safety and environmental concerns, toxic ing programs on skills in restoration of vintage and compli­ solutions and compounds, their handling and disposal cated watches. 4. Adherence to a professional (AWCI) code of ethics 5. Willingness to document and warranty professional Candidates must provide evidence of completion of ad­ services vanced course work in use of the watchmaker's lathe. 6. Commitment to advancement of professional knowledge 7. Commitment to professional standards, quality horologi­ Candidates must demonstrate working knowledge of the cal education, and continual growth of professional knowledge use of computers and technology in horology including funda­ 8. Commitment to investment in brand-specific training as mental (CAD) drawing programs, electronic measurement tech­ offered by industry, manufacturers, and AWCI niques, and research skills. Pathways Candidate must successfully complete written and practi­ To attain 21 '' Century Certified Master Watchmaker (CMW21) cal examinations, as approved by AWCI, and administered status a candidate must possess all of the skills of the 21" Cen­ through the BOE. tury Certified Watchmaker, but may, with Board of Examiner approval, achieve a waiver of the traditional exam and earn a Essential Knowledge Master's title through the following pathways: The CMW21 will possess a working knowledge of the theory of: 1. Escapements 1. Service to the profession as determined by the AWCI Board 2. Fusees and fusee chains of Directors, and documented through a service portfolio* (or) 3. Tourbillons 2. Research on a topic approved by the Board of Examiners 4. "Repeater" timepieces-including minute and 14 hour types (or) 5. Motor barrels 3. Educational Service (5 years in an approved AWCI pro­ 6. Bezel set jewelling gram, and documented through a service portfolio*) (or) 7. Hairspring overcoiling (including Breguet) 4. Innovation - the creation or development of products or 8. Wheel and pinion cutting practices that enhance the horological profession (Board ap­ proval and portfolio* required) Essential Performances The CMW21 will be able to: *Portfolio - a collection of a body of artifacts (documents, 1. Harden/temper metals as necessary videos, movements, articles, publications, etc.), which provide 2. Fabricate parts, as required, to match the original remain­ evidence of a candidate's achievements. ing pieces. This includes the following: a. Fabricate a new staff for the balance, from "bar stock"

30 Horological Times June 2007 . ' Clock Associate (CA) 1/DeJayJ . nc. In Development - Tampa, Florida 1 --....

This certificate is for the person who wants to begin working in Wholesale Jeweler & Watchmaker Supplies the world of clock repair as a counter person and/or assistant to Since 1969 a 21" Century Certified Clockrnaker or 21" Century Certified Master Clockrnaker.lt is also a stepping-stone to begin the study ETA-Chron Tools of clockrnaking and to become a 21" Century Certified Clock­ These tools are necessary for work­ maker. It is not intended to recognize an individual who "re­ ing on the ETAChron mechamcal movements. Tool #1 is called the pairs clocks." It will be very useful to those people who want Exrraccor Key and has a small fork to work as an assistant to a clockrnaker, or with the supply of shaped tip for removing the scud clock materials, as it will acquaint them with the general work­ block. Tool #2 is the Adjustment ings of clocks and their parts. Key and is used for adjusting the regulating pins. Each measures 2 '!.'' in length. Requirements No. 591.043- Extractor Key The candidate must complete written/practical tasks as required No. 591.044- Adjustment Key and submit them to AWCI for review. Your choice just $23.95 each

Assessment All scoring of assessments will be "pass/fail'' with explana­ New Movements Available from tions on failures provided. Candidates will be given the oppor­ Ronda All of these new movements are tunity to retest a failed section until passed. 12'/2 Ligne. Stock No. Description Price Procedure 5010.B 1 Eye Chrono, $59.95 The candidate for this certificate must request materials, one Big Date at 12 5030.D 3 Eye Chrono, $35.95 section (of seven) at a time, fill out the proper forms from the Date at 4 AWCI office and pay all fees. To complete this certificate, the 5040.B 3 Eye Chrono, $53.70 candidate must then complete all seven sections, scoring a Big Date at 12 "pass" to be issued a certificate of completion. 5040.D 3 Eye Chrono, $37.95 Date at 4 SOSO.B 3 Eye Chrono, $45.95 Disclaimer Big Date at 6 The candidate must clearly understand this is a program to de­ .A; velop general knowledge and skills and is not an authorization Check out these movements and ahnosr 400 more at ... to begin the practice of clock repair. www.Livesayslnc.com ,..,.. \1

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June 2007 Horological Times 31 Time a. Screw and nut drivers-what the shape should be to There is no time limit to any particular assessment section but properly fit screw slots and nuts if a candidate does not complete the program within one year, b. Pliers-for pin work, adjusting, and shaping, etc. without filing a legitimate reason for a time extension (which c. Files, buff sticks, and burnishers must be approved by the Board of Examiners), certification d. Tweezers--designs for specific tasks procedures must be re-initiated. e. Jewelers saw f. Wire bending/adjusting tools Essential Knowledge and Skills g. Broaches-cutting and smoothing Introduction to Clocks-Their Repair and Restoration: The can­ h. Let-down keys didate will be able to: i. Staking tools, punches, blocks and stumps 1. Label and identify typical clock styles, their period of popu­ j. Bushing reamers and two common systems-Bergeon larity, and country of origin from the 1800s to the present. and KWM 2. Identify and label the basic components of a variety of clock k. Pegwood and pithwood and their uses movement types, including: a. Time only with simple, compound and torsion pendu­ lums b. Time and strike movements-both rack and snail and count wheel/lock plates Certified Clockmaker (CC21) c. Chiming movements In Development 3. Explain the reasons for the following operational problems and know/show what corrective actions are most typically taken This certificate is awarded to those who have demonstrated the for: necessary skills to repair and restore the majority of clock types a. Bearing/pivotal wear (depthing) that are prevalent in the United States including mantel, wall and b. Beat errors floor clocks. The holder of this certificate is urged to progress and c. Power supply problems (mainspring/weight) continue his/her studies to qualify for the CMC21 which encom­ d. Lever actions passes the more technical skills needed for restoration and con­ 4. Demonstrate, adjust, describe and/or make drawings of the servation of all types of clocks-modem, vintage and antique. following processes: a. Beat setting and self-setting beat mechanism Requirements b. Determine whether hands can be moved backwards Complete an examination of 9 components grouped into 2 sec­ or forwards without difficulty. tions, Part A and Part B. Part A, comprised of 5 sections, is c. Correct the synchronization of time and strike and time/ carried out at the candidate's work site and is "Mentor observed" strike/chime clocks. as each task is performed and completed. d. Show proper winding procedures for both spring and weight clocks. Components e. Make speed adjustments, knowing the differences for 1. An on-site review of the work area done by the supervis­ long and short pendulums. ing mentor f. Set the hammers of a chime clock correctly. 2. A written examination 5. Demonstrate the ability to place hands correctly and 3. The replacement of a damaged pivot on an AWCI provided adjust them correctly to get releases at the quarter hours and wheel enable correct synchronization release at the hour. 4. The replacement of several teeth on an AWCI provided 6. Demonstrate a written knowledge of the features of a mod­ clock wheel em grandfather movement including each of the following: 5. The safe removal, cleaning and reinstallation of a barreled a. Moon dial principles mainspring also provided by AWCI b. Chime selection and rules for moving selector c. Hand setting The second section, Part B, of the CC21 assessment will not be d. Beat adjustment mentored and will be comprised of four additional practical e. Night silence feature tasks (performance sections). In these, the candidate will re­ f. Handling brass parts pair different clock types. All materials will be submitted to the g. Winding AWCI Board of Examiners (BOE) for scoring as specified for h. Time regulation each section. 7. Identify and describe the proper quality and/or design of the following tools:

32 Horological Times June 2007 TOLL FREE PH: 866-655-3155 TOLL FREE PH: 8n-608-3347 Assessment TOLL FREE FAX: 866-211-2550 The examinee must meet minimum performance standards on 1480F TERRELL MILL RD. each portion of the examination in order to receive certifica­ ...... ,,.OIAI1TJ1100 Ofllunon Coils MARIETIA, GA 30067 tion. Scaling will be adjusted so that the "cut" (passing score) 1'/w.h P.ltts& Vllld> ~Tool> rests at 70%. If retesting is requested, it may be allowed (at the discretion of the BOE) if no more than two sections of part A, and no more than two sections of part B are below this percent­ YOUR PRIMARY SOURCE FOR age. To receive the 21st Century Certified Clockmaker Certifi­ WATCH COMPONENTS cate, the candidate must pass all 9 sections with at least mini­ mum passing scores. Scores will not be added together and averaged. Any disputes of scores obtained, may be submitted to the BOE by following the "Rules of the AWCI Certification Appeals Process." Failure on any 3 of the 5 sections of Part A ETA901.005 $ 5.95 will result in the examinee being required to retake the entire HARLEY751 $ 4.50 examination at his/her own expense. Note: If retesting for any HATTORI PC21 A $ 1.75 section of Part A is granted, the retest must be observed by the MIYOTA2035 $ 1.95 mentor and additional costs will be applied as determined at the time the request is granted by the BOE.

377, SR626SW $ 0.15 379, SR521SW $ 0.24 Certified Master Clockmaker CR2016 $ 0.28 (CMC21) CR1216 $ 0.45 In Development

The holder of this certificate must be able to demonstrate the skills, knowledge, and dispositions of the 21 " Century Certi­ fied Clockmaker, plus have the ability to fabricate parts for any clock of any age, and design both pendulum and balance wheel types.

There are several ways to demonstrate the qualities needed to be awarded this certificate. They include: 1. Standard test examination and skill demonstration 2. Submission of an alternative program to the BOE for its approval 3. Submission of plans, procedures and skill lists of techniques used to fabricate a clock movement and case. A BOE approved DOME M.GLASS-100 PCS $65.00 mentor may verify the authenticity of work completed. FLAT M.GLASS-200 PCS $55.00 Procedures Since the options vary with this certificate, situation specific procedures will result from the program selected and the direc­ 1 YEAR WARRANTY ON ALL PRODUCTS tions of the BOE. In the case of special programs, all steps and results must be documented, photographed and presented to WE SPECIALIZE IN HARD-TO-FIND PARTS the BOE as specified. FREE FEDEX GROUND SHIPPING Visit AWCI's website (www.awci.com) for complete descrip­ FOR ORDERS OVER $100 tions of the AWCI 21" Century Certifications. 0 QUANTITY DISCOUNTS OFFERED

June 2007 Horological Times 33 AWCI's Academy of Watchmaking offers a series of refresher courses in watch repair. All classes are held at the AWCI Training Facility in Harrison, Ohio. Students are expected to have a certain amount of watchmaking skills. Previous work on watches in a watch repair environment is recommended (self-employed, factory service center, independent service center, store manager, etc.). The courses, purpose, prerequisites and objectives are listed below. For complete course information and required tools, please visit AWCI's website (http://www.awci.com/services/continue-edu.php ). Manuel Yazijian, CMW21, is the watchmaking instructor. All classes are held Monday through Friday (5 days), 9:00 AM-5:00PM.

Watchmaker's Lathe I (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose This course is to teach the student basic micromechanics skills and all the basics of operating a watchmaker's lathe.

Prerequisites Must read Chapter 12 of The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How To Use It, by Archie Perkins, prior to attending the course (http://www. watchclockmakers.org/ecomm/proddetail.php ?prod=book024)

Course Objectives 1. Measuring and measuring tools 7. Use of gravers, shapes and cutting geometry 2. Tracing and sawing 8. Sharpening gravers 3. Various methods of filing 9. Turning square shoulders and tapered surfaces 4. Drilling 10. Cutting an inside and outside thread 5. Creating line finishes 11. Other applications of the lathe (e.g. cutting out a balance staff) 6. Introduction to the lathe and its care

34 Horological Times June 2007 Watchmaker's Lathe II (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose This course is a continuation of Watchmaker's Lathe I and the purpose is to teach the student the necessary knowledge and hand skills to manufacture various parts in steel that will be functional in a mechanical watch.

Prerequisites • Having attended the AWCI course, Watchmaker's Lathe I • Must read Chapter 16, of The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How To Use It, by Archie Perkins, prior to attending the course (http://www.watchclockmakers.org/ecomm/proddetail.php?prod=book024)

Course Objectives 1. Measuring and measuring tools 7. Heat treating, annealing, hardening, tempering 2. Using various formulae 8. Square filing methods 3. Determining the dimensions of missing part(s) 9. Turning square shoulders and tapered surfaces 4. Metallurgy 10. Cutting threads on steel parts 5. Use of gravers, shapes and cutting geometry 11. Other applications of the lathe as time permits 6. Sharpening gravers (H.S.S & Carboloy)

June 2007 Horological Times 35 Basic Watch Repair (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose This course is to teach the student all the fundamentals of modern mechanical manual wind watch repair that are most prevalent in today's market. Topics covered will include the verification and analysis of the escapement function.

Prerequisites • Some basic understanding in manual wind watch function, knowledge of watch terminology, membership with AWCI • It would be of extreme benefit for the student to be familiar with some watch theory and also past experience in watch repair. • Ownership of the books: 1. The Theory of Horology, must read pages 33-44 of The Theory of Horology prior to attending the course 2. The Watch Repairer's Manual

Course Objectives 1. Overview of the nomenclature of the watch and its various components 2. General repair procedure a. Jewels and end shakes b. Proper servicing of a barrel c. Basic wheel calculations d. How to check and adjust the escapement e. Adjusting and truing the hairspring 3. Modern cleaning procedures 4. Assembly and lubrication 5. Different lubricants in modern watchmaking 6. Timing adjustments and analysis 7. Dialing and casing

36 Horological Times June 2007 Servicing and Adjusting the Lever Escapement (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose • To gain a good theoretical understanding in order to evaluate the condition of the lever escapement and thus proceed with the verification and analysis of the escapement functions. • To teach the student all the fundamentals of the proper functioning of the lever escapement. • To be able to make all the adjustments with ease and confidence. • To understand the effects of adjustments on timing. • Proper lubrication methods and its effect on timing and overall performance.

Prerequisites • Minimum 3 years full-time experience in watch repair (and/or) attended the following AWCI Courses: 1. Basic Watch Repair and/or 2. Automatic Watch Repair • Ownership of the book The Theory of Horology is essential, must read pages 99-101 of The Theory of Horology, prior to attending the course. • Knowledge of watch and escapement terminology • Membership with AWCI • Ownership of hand tools as per tool list (see AWCI website, www.awci.com)

Course Objectives 1. Overview of the nomenclature of the lever escapement and its various components 2. General repair procedure 3. Checking the various components 4. Adjustment and correction of the division of the escape wheel, the lever and balance wheel 5. Adjustment and correction of the clearance of the fork horns and guard pin 6. Adjustment and correction of the various clearances in the escapement 7. Adjustment and correction of the pallet jewels 8. Logical steps of repairing the lever escapement 9. Proper technique of applying shellac 10. Oiling the escapement 11. Final assembly 12. Timing adjustments and analysis

June 2007 Horological Times 37 Precision Timing and Dynamic Poising (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose This course is to teach the student most common causes of timing errors and methods of correcting them. Performing precision timing exercises, including staffmg, static and dynamic poising.

Prerequisites • A minimum of five (5) years experience in mechanical watch repair, or having participated in the AWCI Basic Watch Repair course • Read Chapter 7 of The Theory of Horology prior to attending the course

Course Objectives 1. Staffing 2. Static poising 3. Hairspring vibrating, manipulations and adjustments 4. Theory and function of the regulator pins (traditional and ETACHRON) 5. Escapement checking 6. Dynamic poising 7. Timing adjustments and analysis (five positions and amplitude in two states of power) 8. Other practical exercises as time allows

Modern Automatic Watches (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose This course is to teach the student all the fundamentals of modem mechanical automatic watch repair that are most prevalent in today's market. The student will learn how to perform the various diagnostics in evaluating the condition of the various components, cleaning, assembling, adjustments, dialing and casing.

Prerequisites • At least three (3) years experience in mechanical watch repair, or having participated in the AWCI Basic Watch Repair course • Tools required (see AWCI's website, www.awci.com) • Read pages 169-188 of The Theory of Horology, essential prior to attending the course

Course Objectives 1. The most common differences between manual wind and automatic watches 2. Discussion of all the components in detail 3. Servicing the above including up-to-date methods of barrel setup 4. Practical exercises 5. Advanced cleaning procedures 6. Different lubricants in modem watchmaking 7. Regulator pins (traditional and ETACHRON) 8. Timing adjustments and analysis (five positions and amplitude in two states of power) 9. Written and practical tests

38 Horological Times June 2007 Basic Quartz Watch and Quartz Chronograph Repair (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose This course is to teach the student all the fundamentals of modem basic quartz watch repair and quartz chronographs that are most prevalent on today's market. The student will learn how to perform the various important electronic tests (e.g. current consumption, coil resistance, lower working voltage, fault finding, etc.).

Prerequisites • Some basic understanding in electronic watch functions • Knowledge of watch terminology • Membership with AWCI • Ownership of the book The Theory of Horology is essential. Must read Chapter 15 prior to attending the course. • It would be of extreme benefit for the student to be familiar with some watch theory and also previous experience in watch repair (e.g. AWCI Basic Watch Repair Course, Modem Automatic Watches, etc.). • Knowledge of various Swiss calibers covered

Course Objectives 1. Brief historical background of quartz watches 2. Discussion of all the components in detail and their purpose 3. Recap and discussion of measurement points for analog quartz watches 4. Modem cleaning procedures 5. Modem lubricants as it applies to 21 51 Century watchmaking 6. Practical exercises 7. Introduction to and practical exercises with the Witschi QTest 6000 8. Additional exercises

Modern Mechanical Chronographs, Servicing and Adjusting (Also a preparatory course for the AWCI CW21 exam)

Purpose This course is to teach the student all the basics of the modem mechanical chronographs that are most prevalent in today's market as well as to give the student a profound understanding of how chronograph watches operate.

Prerequisites • A minimum of three (3) years experience in manual and/or automatic watch repair • Ownership of the book The Theory of Horology is essential, must read Chapter 11 prior to attending the course • Attended the following AWCI Course(s): Basic Watch Repair and/or Automatic Watch Repair • Calibers covered: Lemania 1873/0mega 861 (cam operated chronograph), ETA 7750 (cam operated chronograph), DuboisDepraz, 2000/0mega 1140 (modular direct drive chronograph)

Course Objectives 1. Definitions and brief history of mechanical 6. Modem assembly procedures chronographs and its various components 7. Modem oiling procedures 2. About the basic features 8. Timing and adjustments 3. About its basic functions 9. Fitting hands on chronograph watches 4. The basic differences between 10. Dialing and casing column wheel and cam chronographs 5. Systematic approach of disassembly and 0 problem diagnosis

June 2007 Horological Times 39 Workshop Floor Plans

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40 Horological Times June 2007 . J ULTRASONIC TESTING EQUIPMENT - PRESSES SPARE PARTS - STORAGE [GJ

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COUNTER WTH SHELVING ABt:NE NO BELOW

June 2007 Horological Times 41 Quantity Description Supplier Supplier Ref # Apertured plate Rolex Banking Pin Tool for straightening (set of 3) Rolex Barrel arbor holder, slide locking jaws, 0.80mm Rolex 1 Barrel arbor holder, slide locking jaws, 1.25mm Bergeon 30610 Dl 1.25 1 Barrel arbor holder, slide locking jaws, 1.45mm Rolex Barrel arbor holder, slide locking jaws, 2mm Bergeon 30610 Dl 2.00 2 Basket (Cleaning) Bergeon Benzine Cup 1OOmm Bergeon 30514-100 Benzine Cup 30mm Bergeon 5445-A Brush - Borax soft Bergeon 1302-2 Brush - Scratch (brass) - pencil shaped Bergeon 2834-L Brush - Scratch (brass) Bergeon 2272 Case wrench Berg eon 2819-4 Casing cushion Bergeon 5394 Countersink (Assortment of 6) Bergeon 1898 Cutting broaches (Assortment of 7 cutting broaches with knur1ed handle) Bergeon 30544-A Cutting Broaches (set of 12 small) Bergeon 4251 Dust blower Bergeon 5733 Dust Cover & Tray Bergeon 30097-BC Dust cover large Rolex 1 Emery paper (Set of Grit:220(2), 320(4), 400(4), 600(6)) see order 2 Emery Sticks - Grit 2 2 Emery Sticks - Grit 4/0 File - Crossing file, cut 4 (90x1 0.2) Valorbe LP1960-3,5-4 File - Hand file, cut 2 (200x21 .30) Valorbe LP1163-8-2 File- Hand file, cut 4 (150x18.50) Valorbe LP1163-6-4 File - Hand file, cut 5 (125x15.50) Valorbe LP1163-5-5 File (Assortment of 12 needle /escapement) Valorbe LE3092-4 File Card 00650655 1 Hairspring holder Rolex 30105 1 Hammer for watchmaker Berg eon 1438-3 Hand Levers w/blue handle Bergeon 5431 1 Handpusher Bergeon I 6404V 2 Jewelers Saw Blades #1 (pks of 12) 01833896 4 Jewelers Saw Blades #2/0 (pks of 12) II 01833870 1 Jewelers Saw Frame- 2-1/2" Depth W-HMJS-25

Jewelling tool (Horia) Rolex I 5372·61 Jewelling tool (Horia) Pushers (12) & Anvils (6) Rolex Knife Bergeon 1 1036 2 Leather buff 12mm with protector Rolex 1282-A 2 Leather buff 6mm with protector Bergeon I 1282-D & 4056 Levers for collet I hairspring Bergeon 5430 Loupe 3 (3.3x) Sternkreuz Loupe 1.5 (6.7x) Sternkreuz Loupe 1Ox ASCO Schurch 1 174 Loupe 2.5 (4x) ASCO Schurch 163 1 Loupe 25X Rolex 2 Loupe holder Berg eon 5461 Mainspring winder Berg eon 2795 Micrometer Brutsch IBRC11360 Mirror Bergeon 2681

42 Horological Times June 2007 Quantity Description Supplier Supplier Ref # 1 Movement holder (Slick) Bergeon 4040 1 Movement holder (Slick) Berg eon 4039 1 Oil cup stand Bergeon 30180-A Oil cup, red, 9mm Rolex Oil cup, blue, 15mm Rolex Oil cup, green 20mm Bergeon 30101-C Oil cup, yellow Berg eon 30101-D Oiler (Automatic) No 1 A Rolex 2718-1A 2 Oiler (black) Rolex Oiler (yellow/blue/green/red) Bergeon 30102-S (set of 4) Oval burnisher Rolex 2929-075-788 Pin Vises, 1st quality 5 pc Bergeon 30026-A 1 Pin Vises, 4 pes with square head Bergeon 1842-B 1 Pithwood Buttons (12 per box) plus ziplock bag Bergeon 1 Pithwood Sticks (bundle) plus ziplock bag Plastic Movement Holders (Stacked -set of 12) r l590.276 1 Pliers - flat Pliers w/steel jaws Berg eon i2017 Poising tool Rolex 82802-LN-01 Poising tool case Berg eon 2802-A Presto tool for chronograph driving wheels Rolex + Presto tool for hands Rolex 130636-1 1 Riveting block in steel Bergeon 1907 3 RubOff A&F Screw Holders for Balance Wheels, Asst. of 3 Bergeon 2566 Screwdrivers (with Rotating stand) Bergeon 5970 Selvyt Rolex 1208-B 1 Sliding Caliper MSC 1 Smoothing broaches, assortment of 7 Bergeon 30543-A Springbar tool Bergeon 6111 Staking Tool 1 Stone (Arkansas) Berg eon 11952-E 1 Stone (India) (Fine grain) Bergeon 1945-66F Stone (red sharpening) (Degussit) Bergeon 4975 1 Stones - Combined (Arkansas & India) Berge on 4125 1 Tray for tools (plastic) (green) Rolex 2 Trays, triangular Bergeon 2612-B Truing caliper (Caliber 8) Bergeon 4000 Truing caliper (Lyra) Bergeon 5896 Tweezer stainless steel with plastic points Berg eon l6571-D Tweezers Stainless No. 3 Bergeon 5002-3 Tweezers, antimagnetic, No. 3 Berg eon 5495-3 2 Tweezers, brass Rolex 1 Tweezers, Bronze, PS ASCO 1 Tweezers, F, Fontax Rolex Tweezers, Nickel No. 12 Rolex 6603-12 Tweezers, No. 2 (strong, fine points) Fontax Tweezers, No. 7 Fontax 1 Tweezers, plastic Rolex 6225 1 Tweezers, stainless, No. 4 (fine for hairspring) Fontax 1 Tweezers, stainless, No. 5 (extra fine for hairspring) Fontax 2 Widia cutter Rolex 1 Widia cutter handle, 1.5mm Rolex

June 2007 Horological Times 43 Watchmaker's Basic Workshop Equipment

Item ' Minimum Maximum Price Price $ 1,500.00 I $ 5,000.00 Watchmaker Workbench I Watchmaker Lamp $ 159.00 $ 400.00 Timing Machine with Amplitude Meter $ 1,395.00 I $ 6,600.00 Timing and Testing Machine for Electronic Watches $ 1,655.00 I $ 2,900.00 Watch Cleaning Machine $ 2,595.00 I $ 2,595.00 Water-Resistance Tester $ 375.00 $ 595.00 Vacuum System $ 4,300.00 $ 4,300.00 Case Opener/Closer $ 295.00 $ 399.00 Crystal Press $ 269.95 $ 429.00 Bezel Press (appoximate price) $ 500.00 $ 500.00 Cyclomat Final-Test $ 335.00 $ 850.00 Demagnetizer $ 59.95 $ 193.00 Dual-Speed Polishing Machine with built-in $ 2,116.00 $ 2,116.00 dust filtering system and plexiglass enclosures Ultrasonic Cleaning Tank $ 400.00 $ 900.00 Steam Cleaner $ 625.00 $ 895.00 Parts Storage Cabinet $ 1,000.00 $ 1,500.00 TOTAL $17,579.90 $30,172.00

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44 Horological Times June 2007 Plan to Attend!

• Network with fellow horologists, industry and distributors • Attend the Educational Symposium • Get a good deal at the Auction Friday evening • Shop at the Vendor Fair on Saturday • Enjoy the receptions, social time and awards program • Visit the local attractions: MainStrasse Village, Newport on the Levee, Cincinnati Zoo, Newport Aquarium, and much more

Don't ntiss the 2007 AWCI Convention & Edueational Spnposiunt!

Complete Convention Information is available online: www.awci.com You can also call or e-mail: 866-367-2924, ext. 303 [email protected] BASELWORLD 2007 watches, both for men and women, are fitted with dia­ This year's BASELWORLD, the Swiss Watch and Jew­ monds in the bezel and even on the case lugs. It seems elry Fair, was held April 12-19. Every year the city of that every manufacturer has a line of mechanical chrono­ Basel, Switzerland is host to exhibitors from the watch, graphs, mostly equipped with an ETA 7750 movement or clock, and jewelry industry from all over the world at its one of its variants. Most manufacturers were highlighting exhibition center located a few city blocks from the Rhine their mechanical watches and giving their quartz watch River. This writer and a colleague left their shop to attend models, although on display, far less attention than the BASELWORLD for five days. We spent those days check­ mechanicals. The mechanical watch market is currently ing out new watches, watch repair tools, and spare parts very strong and that is an encouraging sign for our watch­ suppliers. The following paragraphs are not a comprehen­ maker members. In fact, the mechanical watch market is sive report but just a few observations from the perspec­ so strong that a number of independent watch companies tive of a practicing watchmaker. are now producing their own movements, rather than relying upon Swatch Group's ETA division for ebauche The major Swiss manufacturers are bringing to the mar­ production. The independents' movement production ex­ ketplace new mechanical watches with as many compli­ emplifies the expansion of the mechanical watch industry cations as they could fit into the very large watch cases. since the time it nearly disappeared in the early 1980s. A 36 mm watch twenty years ago was considered large but is now thought of as small. Watch case diameters now Another building at the Fair had an entire floor for tool routinely exceed 42 mm for many makes and models. The and machinery suppliers. The mechanical watch manu­ variety of mechanical watches on display was immense. facturing industry has grown more specialized in the past They ranged from the very simplest two-hand manual wind ten years and consequently the tool manufacturers' prod­ watch, to the most complicated pieces a watchmaker will ucts have expanded to match the bench watchmaker's re­ ever see in the shop. In between the two extremes, the quirements to repair these timepieces. One manufacturer watches on display featured numerous complications in­ of testing equipment now produces a manually operated cluding automatics, calendars, tourbillons, and minute device that tests watch cases to a pressure of 125 atmo­ repeaters. There were mechanical watches that can run spheres (about 1800 pounds per square inch). Any watch for 10 days on a single wind, as well as perpetual calen­ that passes a test this severe should be able to easily with­ dars that will accurately display the date until the next stand routine swimming, diving, and bathing. Although century. Many makers fit their watches with retrograde only a few divers ever subject their watches to pressures hands to display every conceivable function. Other that high, thousands of watches are being produced that watches displayed multiple time zones. There are watches have the capability to be submerged to such great depths built for every extreme environment on Earth, under the and not sustain any damage. ocean, and in space. The variety of watches stagger the mind as one tries to comprehend all that is on display and Other test equipment manufacturers were displaying their available for a price. latest devices that can diagnose almost any imaginable fault in mechanical or quartz movements. In fact, some of Stainless steel cases are still occupying a very strong pres­ the test equipment is so sophisticated; this writer asked a ence in the market. Rubber watch straps, in a variety of sales representative of one company why they put so many colors, were featured on many watches. In the past, capabilities into each new machine. He explained that his watches with rubber straps were confined to very low cost company builds the test equipment for the watch of to­ models. Today, even those costing several thousand dol­ morrow rather than the watch of today. Equipment manu­ lars were equipped with rubber straps. Many stainless facturers work closely with the various watch companies

46 Horological Times June 2007 to ensure that the test equipment is suitable for all current SA Watch Movement Technical Guides." This will take movements as well as any new movements produced in you directly to the ETA customer service portal.) After you the foreseeable future. The rep further explained that if specify the caliber number of the ETA movement in ques­ they built testing devices geared for current production tion, you will be able to access a printable Adobe file that watches, their products would rapidly become obsolete contains detailed technical and manufacturing information as new watch movements entered the market. By remain­ about ETA's current production movements. The manufac­ ing abreast and ahead of the watch technology, these new turing information and technical guides are separate files. testing devices will have a much longer useful life on a The technical guides are those we customarily use to assist watchmaker's bench. us in the repair of these movements while the manufacturing information specifies all of the pertinent details of each move­ Speaking of benches, the old standard watchmaker's bench ment. As an example, the information for the ubiquitous ETA has now been replaced by a new generation of ergonomi­ 2824-2 movement shows that it is made in four distinct ex­ cally designed benches, which feature armrests for watch­ ecutions with variations in parts and part quality. Experi­ maker comfort. They have ports for compressed air and enced watchmakers (read that to mean they have been at vacuum lines as well as computer cables. Many new benches have easily adjustable heights to accommodate nonstandard size watchmakers. The old benches, used by many American watchmakers, had tops about three feet long and two feet wide. That small space is no longer suf­ CLOCKS ficient to efficiently repair watches. Tools and test equip­ . ment need more bench top space than that available on an m a g a z 1 n e old model bench. A modem bench is longer and wider with nearly double the surface area when compared to the old style. The famous Norman Rockwell painting of an old watchmaker working at a cramped bench as a young boy curiously watches still gives us a sense of the fine tradition associated with our craft. A visit to the Basel Fair allows one to view the future image of the watch­ maker, still true to the tradition of working with one's hands and mind, while at the same time accepting and keeping up with the changes in the profession. Jack Kurdzionak

Yours for the Asking Tamara Houk, who operates a Swiss Service Center in llli­ nois, makes the following suggestion for those who wish to understand ETA movements and their details in depth. She GET YOUR FREE SAMPLE recommends that you visit the ETA website, www.eta.ch, go to customer service, the customer service portal, and the tech­ COPY OF CLOCKS nical documents/manufacturing information page. (You can Tel: 044 131 331 3200 also visit the ETA website from www.awci.com. Click on Services, Technical, Technical Help and then choose "ETA Email: [email protected]

June 2007 Horological Times 47 The two higher grades use a Glucydur balance, red ruby ETA Glucydur pallet stones, Incabloc shock jewels, Nivaflex NM grade balance mainspring, Anachron hairspring, decorated oscillating weight, and more demanding timing specifications. The Chronometre grade is COSC certified and the movement may be serial numbered.

The Standard grade is timed in two positions, Elabore is timed in three positions while the Top, and Chronometre grades are timed in five positions. As the quality increases through the grades, the timing specifications are held to closer tolerances. Watchmakers are well advised to take Tamara's advice and visit the ETA website (www.eta.ch) and print out the relevant technical and manufacturing specs for each movement. Each watchmaker should un­ derstand the details, spare part requirements, and time­ keeping capabilities of every movement being repaired. Jack Kurdzionak

Time in the Balance The previous article mentions the two types of balances ETA standard (regular and Glucydur) used by ETA for their current grade baf::anr.AI production mechanical timepieces. We hear a lot about wneel these two types of balances, but how can one tell them apart? The answer is rather simple. You just have to look at them. The Glucydur balance arms are radial and sym­ metrical. The base of each arm widens gradually as it nears the balance rim. The standard balance has arms, which lie on a chord and they are neither radial nor symmetrical. A glance at the two photos (one has had the hairspring re­ moved) immediately reveals their differing appearance. Not only are the balance wheels themselves different; their hairsprings are not the same. The standard balance uses the Nivarox 2 hairspring while the Glucydur balance uses the Anachron hairspring. Jack Kurdzionak

You Are Invited Do you have a solution to a watch or clock repair problem the bench longer than some of us have been alive) are that you want to share with our membership? Do you have well aware that the old American companies, such as a question about a repair problem you would like to ask? Waltham, made the same model movement in numerous I invite you to participate in this column with your sug­ quality grades. They ranged from those with low jewel gestions, questions and comments. It is easy. Just e-mail counts and a basic finish to highly jeweled models with me at AWCI or write using the exceptional finishing work on the plates and bridges. ETA old standby known as the postal service. You can even manufactures its 2824-2 in much the same way. The qual­ fax me at 513-367-1414. ity grades increase from Standard and Elabore through Top and Chronometre grades. All movements in this 25- I will do my best to help you help the membership. By jewel, automatic, date movement family look similar, but sharing your questions and suggestions, all of our mem­ there are subtle differences from grade to grade. The two bers can benefit from our combined knowledge and expe­ lower grades share the same mainspring, balance assem­ rience. The ideas, tools, techniques and products presented bly, Etachoc shock jewels, Nivarox 2 hairspring, Nivaflex in this column are suggested by the author and contribut­ NO grade mainspring, polyruby pallet stones, but may ing members and are not endorsed by any manufacturer, differ in finish. supplier, advertiser or AWCI itself. 0

48 Horological Times June 2007 AWCI Business & Pricing Surveys

The AWCI Business & Pricing Surveys provide statistics on business expenses, rilL /.\ · \·~.·.~ rates charged by watchmakers and clockmakers around the country, and much ~ -- ', more. The purpose of the business survey was to learn more about members' business ,.- environments, income, and demographics such as age and location. The results ' I for most questions are presented with a national average and a high and low range, (~ "i ~ ,. : - and regions are also broken out. I: ~ The purpose of the pricing survey was to learn more about members' charges and ~ I', hours, their business, their income, and their demographics such as age and loca­ tion. The results for most questions are presented with a national average and a high and low range, and regions are also broken out.

Examples of questions and answers in these surveys: Job Opportunities Q. Do you have enough watchmakers, repairers or tech­ Income nicians to meet consumer demand? Q. In 2005 what was your annual gross income? A. Answersrangedfrom40%Yesand33%No. Ofthose A. The average income reported was $38,120 and the needing additional watchmakers, repairers or technicians, maximum was $80,000. the average need was 3.

Do you want to increase your bottom line? Order your copy today! VisitAWCI's website (www.awci.com) or call toll free 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 301

AWCI PARTS & TOOLS MESSAGE BOARD

The American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Parts Message Board is available on line at www.awci.com Click on the Parts Forum in the Top Links box. Guests are free to browse our topics and posts but only validated AWCI members will be able to actively post messages and communicate with one another via private messaging.

The purpose of this board is to aid our members in finding watch parts, clock parts and tools. This board is not open to generic advertising posts; therefore, web addresses and e-mail addresses should not be included in public messages.

June 2007 Horological Times 49 AWCI Affiliate Chapter membership may be conferred on any organized horological group meeting the qualifications stated in the Constitution, Bylaws and Policy Guide for this category. Any horological association, society, or guild having a least fifteen (15) members who are active members of the Institute shall be eligible to petition for status as an AWCI Affiliate Chapter. The group shall file application for affiliation together with a copy of its Constitution, Bylaws, list of names and addresses of its members, and prescribed chapter fee, with the executive director for approval by the Board of Directors.

The Institute has many active local chapters that have become affiliates of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Insti­ tute. Affiliate Chapters are represented on the AWCI Board of Directors through the Affiliate Chapter Director. Chapters are encouraged to send a delegate to the annual Affiliate Chapter and Board of Directors meetings. During these meetings, delegates experience direct contact with the directors and staff and provide input into the future of AWCI.

FLORIDA MINNESOTA NEW YORK Florida Watch & Clockmakers Mid-West Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Horological Society of New York Association Inc. Association Howard Fass Richard LeBeau, CMW Wes Cutter, CC 29 W 47th St 6856 Gulfport Blvd S 1169 Veronica Lane New York, NY 10036-2807 Saint Petersburg, FL 33707 Mendota Heights, MN 55118-4121 Phone: (212) 382-0779 Phone: (727) 347-3758 Phone: (651) 452-4183 Ssastar7@ aol.com Fax: (651) 452-0134 New York State Watchmakers wescutter@ com cast. net Association www.mwca.us Dale LaDue, CMW ILLINOIS 1680 Mt. Hope Ave Central Illinois Watchmakers Minnesota Clockmakers Guild Rochester, NY 14620-4549 Association Susan Wood Phone: (585) 473-2410 Earl B. Lipp 5417 45th AveS Fax: (585) 473-2410 1509 Fort Jessee Rd #3 Minneapolis, MN 55417 Normal, IL 61761 Phone: (612) 727-1300 Phone: (309) 452-3251 anvil clock@ netzero.net NORTH CAROLINA gem city@ adams.net North Carolina Watchmakers Association MISSOURI Mack R. Shuping INDIANA Metro Saint Louis Watchmakers 2288 Ashford Dr Indianapolis Horological Association Association Winston Salem, NC 27103-6258 Rob Stokes Gerald Thomae Phone: (336) 287-8402 16457 Oak Manor Dr 227 Rose Ln Fax: (336) 722-2476 Westfield, IN 46074 Shipman, IL 62685-9775 mshuping01 @sprynet.com Phone: (317) 715-4040 Phone: (618) 836-5456 rob.stokes@ insightbb.com gmthomae@ frontiernet. net OHIO Watchmakers/Ciockmakers MASSACHUSETTS NEW JERSEY Association of Ohio Massachusetts Watchmakers­ Watchmakers Association of Jacob Montgomery, CW Ciockmakers Assoc. Inc. New Jersey 7660 South Rangeline Rd L. Wayne Lannon Damian DeBiis Union, OH 45322-9631 91 Lincoln Ln 36 Willow St Phone: (937) 698-4056 Dracut, MA 01826-2601 Millburn, NJ 07041 Fax: (937) 698-5816 Phone: (978) 458-4743 Phone: (212) 230-6691 jacobmwao@ aol.com [email protected]

50 Horological Times June 2007 PENNSYLVANIA VIRGINIA THEME CHAPTERS Watchmakers Association of Horological Association of Virginia The Chronometer Club Pennsylvania Lloyd L. Lehn, CC Wesley Grau, CMW21 George H. Jones 3723 Ivydale Dr 426 Magnolia Ave 547 Hillcrest Ave Annandale, VA 22003-2003 Gurnee, IL 60031 State College, PA 16803-3421 Phone: (703} 256-2684 Phone: (847) 432-5300 Phone: (814) 238-1668 lloyd.lehn @verizon.net Fax: (847) 249-0214 jones_grace@ hotmail.com www.cuckooclockhospital.com wesleygrau@ sbcglobal.net

Western PA Watch & Clockmakers WASHINGTON Association Washington Watchmakers-Clock­ NAWCC/AWCI Chapter #102 David Simanic makers Assn. Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 9606 Castleton Dr Thomas M. Payne, CMW 379 Main St Allison Park, PA 15101 11557 19th Ave NE Stoneham, MA 02180-3514 Phone: (412} 369-0759 Phone: (781) 438-6977 Seattle, WA 98125-5121 [email protected] Fax: (781) 438-6954 Phone: (206} 361-5198 Fax: (206} 366-1388 bostonwatchco@ gmail.com donantom @tmpco.com www.thewatchmaker.com TEXAS www. pocketwatch repai r.com/wwca Capitol Area Watch & Clockmakers Guild of Texas Rich Reich WISCONSIN 111 Buckskin Ct Wisconsin Horological Society Georgetown, TX 78628 Glenn D. Gardner, CMW Phone: (512) 838-6649 2 W Spyglass Ct reich@ us.ibm.com Madison, WI 53717 www.cawcg.org Phone: (608} 233-1444 Fax: (608} 663-8875 ggardner1 @charter.net

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June 2007 Horological Times 51 AWCI Industry Advisory Board Firms, corporations and businesses which are actively engaged on a national or international basis involving horological industry products, or the sale of horological goods and service, or in publishing or other activities related to the horological field, may become members of the AWCI Industry Advisory Board (lAB). lAB membership levels include: Standard, Bronze, Silver, Gold and Platinum.

The purpose of the Industry Advisory Board is: a. To give assistance to the president of the Institute, the directors, and the general membership of the Institute on any projects undertaken by the organization.

b. To recommend to and advise the president and directors on any matter or subject for the betterment of the Institute, its members, and the industry.

PLATINUM MEMBERS Cas-Ker Company JIDA Rick Foster Gerald Wilson Richemont NA 2550 Civic Center Dr 1722 Madison Ave Denis Jaquenoud PO Box 31167 Toledo, OH 43624-1437 645 Fifth Ave, 5th Floor Cincinnati, OH 45231-1310 Phone: (419) 243-3720 New York, NY 10022 Phone: (513) 674-7700 Phone: (212) 891-2422 Fax: (513) 674-0600 LVMH Watch & Jewelry Fax: (212) 891-2473 [email protected] Andre Fortier denis.jaquenoud@ richemont.com www.casker.com 966 S. Springfield Ave Springfield, NJ 07081 Rolex Watch USA Chelsea Clock Phone: (973) 467-1890 ex111 Charles E. Berthiaume, CW21 JK Nicholas Fax: (973) 912-0267 665 Fifth Ave 284 Everett Ave andre. fortier@ lvmhwatchjewelry.com New York, NY 10022-5305 Chelsea, MA 02150 www. tagheuer.com Phone: (212) 758-7700 Phone: (617) 884-0250 cberthiaume@ rolexusa.com jkn@ chelseaclock.com Movado Group Inc. Monika Masry Energizer 105 State St STANDARD MEMBERS Richard M. Freeman Moonachie, NJ 07074 533 Maryville University Dr Phone: (201) 518-7141 Butterworth Clocks Inc. St. Louis, MO 63141 Fax: (201) 518-7132 Mark Butterworth Phone: (314) 985-1637 mmasry@ movadogroup.com 5300 59th Ave W Fax: (314) 985-2207 Muscatine, lA 52761-6011 richardm.freeman@ energizer.com Seiko Watch Co. Phone: (563) 263-6759 www.energizer.com Frank Bonura Fax: (563) 263-0428 1111 Macarthur Blvd. butterworth@ machlink.com Esslinger & Company Mahwah, NJ 07430-2124 www.butterworthclocks.com Bill Esslinger Phone: (201) 529-7986 1165 Medallion Dr Fax: (201) 529-4525 Saint Paul, MN 55120-1297 fbonura@ seikousa.com Phone: (651) 452-7180 Fax: (651) 452-4298 bill@ esslinger.com www.esslinger.com

52 Horological Times June 2007 / ~ ... """'-" ' ---

Societe Suisse De Chronometrie The Swatch Group (U.S.) Inc. Anne Thierrin Peter Foster Centredoc Jaquet Droz 1 Case 27 55 Metro Way Ste 1 CG-2007 Neuchatel Secaucus, NJ 07094-1 905 SWITZERLAND Phone: (201) 271-1400 Phone: 41 32 720 51 31 Fax: (201) 558-5044 Fax: 41 32 720 57 51 peter. foster@ swatchgroup.com ~~ sse@ centredoc.ch ~~ selection of www.centredoc.ch/ssc The Watchmaker ~~ hard to find. Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 ~~ Swiss made Swiss Service Center Inc. 379 Main St .,_ '-'v 1go!d plated), ~ ETA movements Tamara Houk, CW21 Stoneham, MA 02180-2558 171!2 Calendar Ct Phone: (781) 438-6977 La Grange, IL 60525 Fax: (781) 438-6954 Need these movements with short cannon Phone: (708) 482-0610 bostonwatchco@ gmail.com pinions? With only two hands? With three Fax: (708) 482-1 084 www.thewatchmaker.com hands? Standard cannon pinion with two thouk@ swissservice.com hands? We have them all. www.swissservice.com Toledo Jewelers Supply Co. ETA 955.112 l1Y2 Ugne Karen Elliott ETA 955.412 10Y2 Ugne Sy Kessler Sales Inc. Renata U.S. 245 23rd St ETA 956.112 7'4 Ugne Henry Kessler Toledo, OH 43604 ETA 956.412 10Y2 Ugne 10455 Olympic Dr Phone: (419) 241-4181 ex123 Dallas, TX 75220 Fax: (41 9) 241-4594 Any three for $100 or $35 each Phone: (214) 351-0380 [email protected] Need these same movements with Fax: (214) 351-1903 standard cannon pinion and three hands? hkessler@ sykessler.com Watch & Jewelry Review We have them. www.sykessler.com Bert Kalisher Any four for $95 or $25.95 each 257 Adams Lane The Swatch Group (U.S.) Hewlett, NY 11557-2501 Klaus Lehmann Phone: (516) 295-2516 379 Main Street 293 Dogwood Dr Fax: (516) 374-5060 Stoneham, MA 02180 bert@ americanwatchguild.com Elizabethtown, PA 17022 Phone 800·514·1270 Phone: (717) 367-9425 Fax 800·690-3303 klaus. Iehmann@ swatchgroup.com eckcells®gmail.com Gl) I VISA I

June 2007 Horological Times 53 AWCI's Research and Education Council (REC) Schools are actively engaged in full-time programs of training and/or research in the field of horology.

The purpose of the Research and Education Council shall be: a. To give assistance to the officers, directors, and general membership of the Institute on any research and education projects undertaken by the Institute. b. To make recommendations and advise the officers, directors and the executive director on research and education activities that should be undertaken by the Institute for the betterment of the members.

The requirements for schools to qualify for membership in the Research and Education Council are: a. They must operate a full-time program in either watch or clock repair with a minimum of 30 classroom hours per week. b. The program shall contain a total of at least 1200 hours specializing in either watch or clock repair, but not combined. c. The program should be state certified or accredited as should be the instructors. d. The school and the watch/clock program should be in existence for at least two years and have graduated at least six students within the two years prior to making application.

ALABAMA ILLINOIS MISSISSIPPI Bishop State Community College Gem City College School of Horology Jones County Junior College Stephen Lange, CMW Russell H. Hagenah Horology Dept 925 Dauphin Island Pkwy 700 State St Elbert Lewis, CMW Mobile, AL 36605-3211 Quincy, IL 62301-0179 900 S Court St Phone: (251) 665-4084 Phone: (217) 222-0391 Ellisville, MS 39437-3901 Fax: (251) 479-1448 Fax: (217) 222-1557 Phone: (601) 477-4227 slange@ bscc.cc.al.us gemcity@ adams.net Fax: (601) 477-4152 www.bscc.cc.al.us www.gemcitycollege.com elbert. lewis@ jcjc.edu www.jcjc.cc.ms.us

MICHIGAN Career Preparation Center NEW JERSEY Arnold Van Tiem N. G. Hayek Watchmaking School 12200 15 Mile Rd Valerie Tucker-Ribokove Sterling Heights, Ml 48312-4000 55 Metro Way Phone: (586) 825-2800 Secaucus, NJ 07094-1905 Fax: (586) 698-4177 Phone: (201) 271-4648 arvantiem@ yahoo.com Fax: (201) 271-4723 www.wcs.k12.mi.us/cpc valerie.tuckerribakove@ swatchgroup.com www.nghayekwatchmaki ngschool.org

MINNESOTA Saint Paul College OKLAHOMA Joseph Juaire, CW21 OSU-Okmulgee 235 Marshall Ave Stan McMahan, CW21 Saint Paul, MN 55102-1807 1801 E4thSt Phone: (651) 846-1408 DWRTC #235 Fax: (651) 846-1416 Okmulgee, OK 74447-3942 joe.juaire@ saintpaul.edu Phone: (918) 293-4703 www.saintpaul.edu Fax: (918) 293-4633 s.mcmahan@ okstate.edu REC Instructors: Elbert Lewis, CMW, Jones www.osu-okmulgee.edu/watch County Junior College, Ellisville, MS and Stanley McMahan, CW21, OSU-Okmulgee, Okmulgee, OK.

54 Horological Times June 2007 PENNSYLVANIA Lititz Watch Technicum Karen J. Harnish 1 Wynfield Dr Lititz, PA 17543-8000 Phone: (717) 625-3787 Fax: (717) 625-3624 info@ lititzwatchtechnicum.org www.lititzwatchtechnicum .org We Add Value to Your Time

The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) is the premier TEXAS international organization dedicated to preserving and Paris Junior College Frank Poye, CW promoting the highest standards of workmanship in the horological crafts. 2400 Clarksville St It is the role of AWCI to set the standard of excellence to be applied to the Paris, TX 75460-6298 quality of instruction for both the restoration and repair practices that are Phone: (903) 782-0361 taught worldwide. AWCI is a multifaceted association that offers many Fax: (903) 782-0452 services to its members. fpoye@ parisjc.edu www.watchmaking.net Exclusive membership benefits from AWCI include: • Horological Times Monthly Magazine • Horological Lending Library WASHINGTON • Professional Certification North Seattle Community College • Discounts on books, DVDs, Elaine Rolf • Educational Opportunities videos 9600 College Way North • Referral Directory • Discounts from DHL, Office Seattle, WA 98103-3599 • Career Center Depot, First National Merchant Phone: (206) 526-0169 • Parts and Tool Forum Solutions, Association Health Fax: (206) 527-3659 • Technical Support Programs erolf@ sccd.ctc.edu www.northseattle.edu Join A WCI Today! CANADA Ecole Nationale D'Horlogerie Robert Plourde Complete the form below to receive an AWCI Membership Application and 946 Saint-Paul St mail to: AWCI, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Trois-Rivieres QC G9A 1J3 or call 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) CANADA Phone: (819) 379-8057 Join Online at www.awci.com ~ Fax (819) 379-2189 morissetm@ csduroy.qc.ca ------~

SWITZERLAND Yes, please send an A WCI Membership Application! Watchmakers of Switzerland Technology & Education Program (WOSTEP) Name (please print) Maarten Pieters Rue des Saars 99 CH-2000 Neuchatel Address SWITZERLAND Phone: 41 32 729 0030 Fax: 41 32 729 0035 City [email protected] www. wostep.ch

State Zip/Postal Code

JCKSHOW

June 2007 Horological Times 55 AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair

The AWCI Correspondence Course is based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWCI's resident clock instructor. This course is constructed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immediately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course includes a 16-chapter textbook (de­ scribed below) and 12 exercises. At the completion of each exercise you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer suggestions to each student.

The AWCI Correspondence Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to successfully learn the funda­ mentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairers Handbook, by Laurie Penman and a one-year subscription to Steven G. Conover's monthly publication, Clockmaker 's Newsletter. Course participants will be invited to attend a 2-day meeting at AWCI to confer with Mr. Penman and meet other students.

For more information, visit AWCI's website (www.awci.com) or contact Nancy Wellmann, AWCI Education Coordinator, call toll free 866-FOR­ AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303 or e-mail: [email protected].

Chapter 1 - Tools for Clock Repairing Chapter 9 - Gear Train Faults AIJ the tools needed when starting a new workshop, including Testing the train, depthing the wheels and pinions, gear forms, simple bench made tools. gauging dimensions of wheels and pinions, correcting mesh, correcting tooth form, replacing teeth, true running. Chapter 2 - Dismantling Clocks Removing movements from cases safely, weight and spring Chapter 10- Calculating Missing Trains drives, table of weights, letting down tool, fusees, going bar­ Methods of calculating gear trains for existing plates, for go­ rels, stopwork. ing, striking and chiming trains, matching modem forms to old gears. Chapter 3 - Inspection and Cleaning Cleaning methods, what to inspect and how, damage to gears, Chapter 11- Using the Lathe (Part I) pivots, front work, springs, plates, escapements. The basics of turning for clockmaking, using a center lathe.

Chapter 4 - Bushing Clock Plates Chapter 12 - The Anchor Escapements When to bush, wear in pivots and pivot holes, ready-made Repairing and making anchor escapements, including French bushes, invisible bushing, hand methods, m/c tool methods, fin­ anchors, Black Forest bent strip, American verges. ishing plate surfaces and restoring engraving. Chapter 13 - Spring and Weight Drives Chapter 5 - Pivoting and Mounting Weights, winding barrels and maintaining power, fusees, Refurbishing or replacing pivots, shape and size, surface, tools barrels and going barrels, spring repair, maintenance and cal­ for pivoting and drilling arbors, mounting wheels and barrels culations for replacement. on arbors, levers on posts. Chapter 14- Longcase Striking Systems Chapter 6 - Friction and Lubrication Eight-day and thirty-hour striking, front work variations, count Frictional losses in a movement, their causes, reduction of fric­ plates, racks and snails, problems and repairs. tion by metal finishing, dimensions of bearings and lubricating materials, oils and greases, aging of lubricants, corrosion. Chapter 15 - French Striking Systems "Marble" clocks, carriage clocks, repeaters, Grande and Petite Chapter 7 - Joining Metals Together Sonnerie. Soft soldering, silver soldering, riveting, swaging, adhesives, tapping and dieing, press fits. Chapter 16- USA Striking Systems Racks and count plates, maintenance and adjustment of Chapter 8 - Metal Treatments and Finishes movements. Heat treating metals, for hardness and color, oil blacking, 0 temper colors, polishing, burnishing, mechanics of corrosion, plating, surface finishes. Repair of the Atmos Clock BULLETIN June 23-24, 2007 BOARD AWCI Training Facilities Harrison, Ohio ITEMS STILL NEEDED Hahl Automatic Clock Co. Jeff Hamilton, CMC, Instructor AWCI is looking for an instruction manual/service infor­ This bench course will provide the participants an opportunity to learn mation for a Hahl Pneumatic Clock. proper service techniques of this timepiece of traditional excellence­ the Atmos Clock. The course involves small group instruction and Sonic 4 Ultrasonic Cleaner complete disassembly, assembly, adjustment, and regulation of the Charles Goad, Fairland, OK, is searching for a schematic clock. This course is not designed for hobbyists. Professional me­ chanical horological skills are a prerequisite. This prerequisite is not for a Sonic 4 Ultrasonic Cleaner. intended to exclude the skilled avocational horologist. Mido Multifort Supermatic Water Tester Jeff Hamilton has been employed as a full time clockmaker for the Gaetan Demers, Lawrence, MA, is looking for parts and past 25 years. He owns a successful clock repair business in which he an instruction manual for a Mido Multifort Supermatic specializes in the repair of both Atmos and Herschede clocks. He is an AWl Certified Master Clockmaker. Jeff has written and published Water Tester. The Clocknwker s Beat Book and has produced the same book in CD format. Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do you need information about one of this month's re­ Registration fee is $320 (AWCI membership is required). Registra­ sponses? If so, send your information or requests to: Horo­ tion is limited to 8 students. For further information, or to register for logical Times Bulletin Board; 701 Enterprise Drive; Harri­ this AWCI Bench Course contact Nancy Wellmann, Education Coor­ son, OH 45030-1696; Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307; dinator at [email protected] or call 866-367-2924, ext. 303. Phone: (513) 367-9800; Fax: (513) 367-1414; E-mail: [email protected] 0

WESS The American Watchmakers & Clockmakers Association is excited to announce its DHL shipping program for members. DHL brings AWCI members a full suite of domestic and international shipping services, covering over 220 countries and territories around the globe.

Through AWCI's partnership with DHL, members are also eligible for special association member pricing. To find out more about your DHL benefits and set up your account, or if you have questions regarding your current account, please contact the dedicated association hotline at 1-800-MEMBERS (1-800-636-2377, 8 am- 7 pm, ET) or log onto www.1800members.com/awcinet

June 2007 Horological Times 57 Witschi Micromat C System and Electronic A G. The Proofmaster carries out Jules Borel & Co. Proofmaster M leak tests on watches. It is now possible to 2007 Watch Movements Catalog submit one's watch to the 3-cycle test Last year, Jules Borel & Co. sent out a move­ Micromat C: The Witschi Micromat C known as the Travel Test. It simulates the ment catalog that was both a very valuable measuring station is another milestone in typical conditions to which a watch will reference as well as a sales catalog. Watch­ the field of measurement technology for be submitted when one is flying, makers raved about this state-of-the-art cata­ mechanical watches. swimming or diving. The device is log, so Jules Borel & Co. recently updated characterized by its wholly automated and printed more to satisfy demand and pro­ The Micromat C system is composed of "close and test" sequence, its intuitive vide the latest information. one or several motorized multi-position operation with a color touch screen and microphones integrating the entire its design. The 2007 edition has the same great fea­ Chronoscope measuring technology. It can tures as the 2006 edition with refined be directly connected to a computer by a height measurements, updated prices, USB interface. The microphone can be more tools, and designations identifying easily positioned with a joystick into a few movements which are no longer several test positions. The instrument is available. This 96-page book includes user-friendly and does not take much specifications space. for watch move­ ments with full­ Micromat C provides a building block for color, actual­ test systems with up to eight independent sized front and measuring channels. Such a modular back illustra­ system constitutes an ideal device for tions, function testing and timing medium-size diagrams, refer­ manufacturing series and for the repair ence charts and service. It is also possible to carry out long­ more. Dial foot term analysis up to 300 hours, angular Proofmaster M tests watches with or positions are computations for center of gravity faults, without wristlet up to a diameter of 70 mrn clearly marked isochronism analysis and FFT spectral and a height of 28 mrn. The leak test is and specifica­ analysis. based on the deformation principle. tions include Measurements can be performed with up sizes in lignes to three different pressure values (-0.8 to and millimeters, hand sizes, stem refer­ + l 0 bar). The instrument, equipped with a ences, tap sizes, and special features. Use­ USB interface, can be networked by using ful reference lists show movements sorted the optional WiCoTrace software. The by size and interchangeability as well as Proofmaster fulfills the highest battery sizes. requirements for watch service centers, for testing medium-size series during Jules Borel & Co. has been a leader in serv­ manufacturing and for watch testing labs. ing watchmakers and jewelers for over 87 years. Movement catalogs may be ordered Witschi Electronic AG enjoys a worldwide at 800-776-6858 or viewed on-line at reputation in the watch industry and in julesborel.com. The Jules Borel & Co. related fields. This is due to its innovative 2007 Watch Movements Catalog is free to solutions in the field of test and established customers or with a $30 order. measurement. Its know-how is reflected Feedback from Jules Borel Customers Results and measurements can be stored, in the high quality and accuracy of its test "It has as all the information I really need." instruments. Robert Am, responsible for exported or printed. The instrument can Larry Courtney, watchmaker "Measuring and test be connected at any time to a company marketing and sales: " ... the best movement catalog ever, love see­ instruments must answer increasingly network with its WiCoTrace software. ing the dial feet positions." John Drake, watch­ higher requirements in the fields of watch With the Micromat C system, Witschi maker and Dale LaDue, watchmaker Electronic AG provides the user with new servicing and industrial control of every "All the information for each movement is kind." and improved functions that lead to a great. This is now my bible on movements." marked efficiency increase. Linda Davis, watchmaker For more information visit the Witschi "This is the most complete listing of quartz and Proofmaster M: The Proofmaster M is a website: www.witschi.com. mechanical watch movements that I have seen." novel development from Witschi Ewell Hartman, watchmaker

58 Horological Times June 2007 MORGAN~OTPO~HER ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE Classified Advertising POLISH PIVOTS IN AS We are Factory Authorized Service for: LITTLE AS 5 -7 SEC. Regulations & Rates • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP FilS SHE RUN~=LAi HES. WAfCHli.AKfl!S & • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R MORGAN CLOCK CO. We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, 800-8015-2220 9-6 CST recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience_ $1.00 per word in bold type. Classified dis­ MOR GANPIVOTPOUSHER .COM play ads are $40.00 per column inch, 2%'' 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 wide. Classified ads are not commissionable Used Equipment Bought & Sold or discountable. Payment can be made by FENDLEY & COX For Information check, VISA, MasterCard, Discover, Diner's WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST ~l r~:] ~ (415) 453-9266 . or American Express. The publisher may, 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 at the publisher's sole discretion and for any RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 reason and without notice, decline to pub­ CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI lish or republish any ad, in which case any www.fendley-cox.com fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. POCKET WATCH & Price lists of services will not be accepted. MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR Confidential ads are $10.00 additional for General repair and restoration of antique postage and handling. The first of the month and complicated watches. Custom parts fabrica­ is issue date. Copy must be received 30 tion including staffs, verge staffs, stems, days in advance (August issue closes for levers, and springs. Located in Massachusetts. copy on July 1st). Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; www.henningwatches.com HOROLOG/CAL TIMES Prompt Reliable Service ... Guaranteed 701 Enterprise Drive Call Us or Visit dialreoair.com Harrison, OH 45030 REPIVOTING -WRIST & POCKET WATCHES Toll Free 866-367-2924, ext. 307 Custom made pivots for balance staffs, arbors, Phone (513) 367-9800 pinions. No part too small. Balance staffs and ATMOS by Jaeger-LeCoultre Fax (513) 367-1414 arbors made to factory standards. 40 years ex­ E-mail: [email protected] perience. Juliusz Dabrowski, J.D.Watchworks Completely overhauled with the www.awci.com 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA longest labor warranty on the planet! 94108; (415) 397-0310; [email protected] Five years on all labor! Mike's Clock Clinic Established in 1982 & devoted TRADESMAN CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR exclusively to the Atmos since 1990. PINION CUTTERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS­ I also overhaul 400-day clocks. TOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852 St. Rt. Please call 877-286-6762 HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR 44, Atwater, OH 44201; (330) 325-0645. Cata­ http://www.atmos-man.com/atmos.html Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 log $3.00. and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton electric watches and parts always wanted. Rene Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA ATMOS 94976. Tel: (415) 924-6534. E-mail: Service/Repair rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor 800-837-1545 ARTICLES FOR SALE r------, Clockmaster, Inc. - Robert Good 2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. I DIAL I St. Louis, Missouri 63144 STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? : REFINISHING : or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch Move­ CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS ments. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. 5th made from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, St., Fresno, CA 93726. _. ·.·;: ; teeth replaced in gears or barrels. All work ft. • • 2 ' guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. • Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, Regula and H. Herr Cuckoo Movements - • -· Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, Complete selection. Also factory stopper new ll . . . c. tictoc@ oldandnew.com Hermie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our I \ ~- regular wholesale prices. Call Butterworth -... 1-800-258-5418. BEFORE AFTER DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FIN­ EST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Spe­ Quartz Conversions cialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the HAMILTON ORIGINAL MILITARY MATERIAL Diamond Dial Conversions quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK Supplying original factory material for the Emblem & Name Personalization DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Hamilton Model21 Chronometer, Model22 Deck Kent, WA 98032; (253) 852-5125 Watch & Military 16 Size Watch Models 23, Write for Brochures 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much ma­ INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. terial for the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. 58 W. SUGARTREE VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. LARRY CRUTSINGER P.O. BOX 970 Twenty-eight years experience, guarantee, P.O. Box 8514 Norfolk, VA 23503 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 free estimates. The Escapement, P.O. Box 757-650-9470 E-mail: detent21 @aol.com (937) 382-4535 522, Po'oler, GA 31322; (912) 330-0866 www.militarywatchmuseum.com L------...J June 2007 Horological Times 59 Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books, Videos & ARTICLES FOR SALE Wa.tch Repa.ir Tools & Supplies DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Oock Repa.ir Tools & Supplies... Powell , TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671; for American and European clocks of aU types! E-mail: [email protected] Horologica.l Repa.ir and Refemce Books fOLLY TEED Browse through our inventory and VJARRAN & cteaners order on-line £4-hours a day/ •.• The Original Troop-Balas Labs watch 'TIIllers Silcon-7® Sealant $5.95 www.merritts.com One-Dip Solution® $5.95 Crystai-Kieer® Rouge $6.50 Qur. new IO.D_~-1007 Catalog of PiJrls KT-22 Microlubricant® $3.50 be ;md· Repair Supplies wiU aviJilable www.troop-balas.com approx. May 1, 1006 Write for your copy today! 800-423-3294 ...$3.00 postpd.

DOCTOR'S WATCHES- beautiful German de­ sign, Swiss mechanical ETA movement, good MERRITI'S price. Contact Mark Butterworth for info at (800) CLOCK & WATCH REPAIR 258-5418 or bci@ muscanet.com

www.vibrografusa.com SUPPLY DEPARTMENT 1860 Weavertown Rd, Douglassville, PA 19518 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0567 DASHTO INC.fTOM MISTER PO Box 61894 Virginia Beach, VA 23466 http://www.dashto.com Huge and everchanging selection HELP WANTED Used and new horological items Sold by internet list only TOOLS/EQUIPMENT MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS POCKET/WRISTWATCHES WATCH MOVEMENTS WATCH CASES & DIALS WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES MUCH MORE WE BUY & TRADE ALSO tom@ dashto.com http://dashto.org

60 Horological Times June 2007 Tourneau Service and Repair Center RICHE.M:ONT NORTl-1 A.M: .ERICA, INC. Now Open in Long Island City

Join a winning team, work in a rewarding environment with opportunity for career growth. Richemont' s luxury goods interests encompass several of the most pres­ tigious names in the industry, including Cartier, Piaget, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin, Alfred Dunhill, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, and Bourne & Mercier. We are looking for AWCI 21'1 Century Certified Watchmakers who are interested in joining our new Technical Center in Dallas I Fort Worth. Tourneau Inc., the world's largest watch store is looking for experienced watch­ makers. Our brand new state-of-the-art facility offers the latest in equipment and technology. We also enjoy competitive compensation and a terrific work envi­ ronment. Customer service and other support opportunities also exist. We of­ fer excellent benefits and opportunities for growth. EOE. Mail, fax, or email your resume to: Tourneau Attn: AA 3 East 54th Street 3rd Floor New York, NY 1 0022 Fax: 718.392.4791

BUSINESS FOR SALE

CALIFORNIA HERE WE COME We also offer employment opportunities in several other locations A HIGH-END CLOCK SHOP FOR SALE throughout the U.S. IN SUNNY SACRAMENTO, CA A cosmopolitan of tall, gleaming buildings, a We offer a competitive compensation and benefits package. For con­ leafy valley of scenic rivers and canopies of sideration, please forward resume via fax to 212-759-1857, or via beautiful trees, Sacramento is a snapshot of Wild West history in a modern, world class city. e-mail to [email protected] Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger is often spot­ ted around town. Sacramento enjoys mild year­ EOE M/F/D/V round temperatures. Average temp in January is 54 degrees and 88 degrees in July. This beautiful clock shop is known in local blogs as the destination for excellent help and a beauti­ HOROLOGICAL TOURS SITUATIONS WANTED ful warm environment for customers to shop. It is located in a very busy high-end boutique cen­ ter with other very high-end retailers. The shop 3 CONTINENTS Experienced English watchmaker. British Horo­ has over 200,000 in inventory to dazzle its cus­ HOROLOGY STUDY CRUISE logicallnstitute certified. Has Rolex and Omega tomers. Clocks are available for sale from small OUR 5TH CRUISE AND SEMINAR, TAKES US training, seeks employment in Florida with top miniature to a large inventory of floor standing TO BARCELONA ( CLOCK MUSEUM, PITA quality company. Reply to BOX SW42005, c/o models. You will also find collectibles, gift wares, Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harri­ WATCHES- AHCI) AND A TRANSATLANTIC music boxes and curio cabinets. You can take son, OH 45030. advantage of the fine reputation the owners CRUISE CALLING AT MALAGA (GRANADA) have developed in the market. They have a 35- GIBRALTAR (TREMENDOUS WATCH BAR­ year track record of sales and profitability to GAINS) TANGIER (ANTIQUE MARKETS) Watchmaker seeking employment. Experience includes Cartier and Chelsea Clocks. Please share with you. You do not need to know how CASABLANCA (MARAKESH), AGADIR, to fix clocks to own this store. There are two LANZAROTE, TENERIFE, SANTA CRUZ, Ml· reply to: Box SW112006, c/o Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. full-time Horologists on staff who handle repairs. AMI. SEMINARS AT SEA - PRESENTATIONS The asking price is $200,000 and includes ABOUT HOROLOGY, MECHANICAL MUSIC, FF&E and inventory. AUTOMATA, HISTORY OF SCIENCE, SCIEN­ Clockmaker, college trained, 18 years experi­ TIFIC INSTRUMENTS. DEC 3-20, 2007. FROM ence, seeking employment. Reply to Box Call BRK Greg Roquet at (530) 753-1919 $3,1 00.00. BROCHURE? 1-800-262-4284 OR SW22006, c/o Horologica/ Times, 701 Enterprise or e-mail [email protected] for more information [email protected] Drive, Harrison, OH 45030.

June 2007 Horological Times 61 SCHOOLS WANTED TO BUY

$$WANTED ANYTHING$$ Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling Panerai - Le Coultre Vacheron - AP - Etc. Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684

Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 - $200.00; Venus 178- $150.00; Longines 13ZN- $350.00; Valjoux 69 - $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA - $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401; 1-866-877-8164.

WANTED WATCH BOXES Buy - Sell - Trade We want most major brands. Also buying high­ end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586- 774-3684

WATCH BUCKLES WANTED Study the Art of Swiss Watchmaking in a Comprehensive 2-Year Program I will buy your signed wrist watch buckles from any company in gold, gold filled, It's time to invest in a career for a lifetime. The growth of the luxury watch market has stainless steel or silver. 1-1 000. created job opportunities for qualified watchmakers throughout the United States. Your Randy Chapin 831·246-0945 career potential is unlimited due to the current and future need for watchmakers. Learn or email to [email protected] in an environment that combines old world craftsmanship with state of the art techniques and equipment. WE BUY WATCHES Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Now is the time to request an application for the 2-year training program. The full-time Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Education Program)-based curriculum or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 is designed to train and certify graduates for a fulfilling career in the watchmaking profession. The WOSTEP program is available at the partnership schools listed below. Programs start in September in both Lititz and Seattle. and in January in Okmulgee and Saint Paul. Please write to the Admissions office or request an application by telephone or email:

Lititz Watch Technicum Saint Paul College Watchmaking Program 1 Wynfield Drive • Lititz, PA 17543 235 Marshall Avenue • Saint Paul, MN 55102 (717) 625-3787 (651) 846-1408 [email protected] www.saintpaul.edu

North Seattle Community College Oklahoma State University Okmulgee Watch Technology Institute Watchmaking and Microtechnology 9600 College Way North • Seattle, WA 98103 1801 E. 4th Street • Okmulgee. OK 74447 (206) 526-0169 (918) 293-4703 We also fit glass crystals to [email protected] www.osu-okmulgee.edu/watch/ Openface, Hunting, and English chain drive watches. Complete watches, dials, movements, case springs for sale.

G F Specialties 1-800-351-6926 P.O. Box 2332 Sanford, FL 32772

62 Horological Times June 2007 WATCH MATERIAL WE BUY ENTIRE DISTRIBUTORS Please call us if you are interested WATCH COLLECTIONS in selling your business. IT'S. TIME All replies confidential. TO SELL Contact Pat Cassedy Call Toll Free Cas-Ker 1-800-487-0408 1-800-426-2344 A WATCH 203-366-2500 TOP PRIO~$ PAID!

AlTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS ROLEX • PATEK PHILIPI!E SPECIALTY METALS Call us before you sell your parts, tools, VACHERON & CONSTANTIN REFINING AUDEMARS PIGUEf and watches. We have helped over 175 BREITLING • CARTIER watchmakers in the last eight years to COMPANY, INC. & OTHERS dispose of their accumulations. When 1915 Black Rock Turnpike you're ~y ready to sell, we're ready to \ivl,en you'w ready 10 ~e ll Fairfield, CT 06430 buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327- ~JII Toll Free 3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected] Members: 1-80Q-842-8625 Ron Fried, A lw,1ys prompr tJnymcn(! President Better Business Bureau "/look forward to Jewelers Board of Trade 1" ~ TTl'. Tr"' A We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap giving you honest and 258 Consecutive Ads "T"l':r (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, reliable service." V~r~ silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment . .... P.O. Box 59760 19aU.:.S, TX 7 S22.~ 7 1.il return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: In Te>'aS1)7l•392·767& AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ lished 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Member Benefit Alertl

Health savings Accounts Long-Term Care Disability Income/Critical Illness Dental& Vision Insurance Annuities Health Insurance Home Health Care Life Insurance Assisted Living Individuals 8t Families Term· 5, 10, 20, 25, 30; Age 95 Nursing Home Care Groups Universal Life Student Health Plans Survivorship (2nd to Die) Medicare Supplements Key Person International Travel Insurance Executive Benefit Life Health Savings Accounts Retirement It Financial Services Individua Is/Groups

On Insurance Premiums!

Rates and Avai labilitv May V&:y Bv State. AWCI Association Health Programs 6319 W. llOth Street, OVerland Park, Kansas 66211 ASSOCIATION Phone: (913) 341-2868 Toll Free: (888) 450-3040 Fax: (913) 341··2803 Email: hel p@associationpros. corn Website: www .associationpros.com/assoc/ AWCI PROGRAMS

June 2007 Horological Times 63 Borel & Co., Jules ...... 5 Livesay's, Inc ...... 31 (816) 421-6110 (813) 229-2715

Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 31 Maxell Corp ...... inside front cover (800) 258-5418 (201) 794-5900

Cas-Ker Co ...... 11 Renata ...... back cover (513) 674-7700 (419) 243-3720

Clocks ...... 47 Seiko Instruments USA, Inc ...... inside back cover 011 44 131 331 3200 (513) 674-7700

Eckcells ...... 53 Smith Supply House ...... 29 (800) 514-1270 (213) 622-1687

Frei, Otto ...... 25 Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 17 (510) 832-0355 (516) 437-8700

HPS Companies ...... 33 (866) 655-3155

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James E. Lubic, CMW21 Laurie Penman Heather Weaver Executive Director Clock Instructor Receptionist/Secretary Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 Ipenman@ awci.com hweaver@ awci.com [email protected] Donna K. Baas Jim Meyer Lucy Fuleki Managing Editor/Advertising Manager IT Director Assistant Executive Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 1-866-367-2924 ext. 323 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 dbaas@ awci.com [email protected] lfuleki@ awci .com Nancy L. Wellmann American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Thomas J. Pack, CPA Education Coordinator 701 Enterprise Drive Finance Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 nwellmann@ awci.com (513) 367-9800 [email protected] Fax: (513) 367-1414 Sharon McManus E-mail: awci @awci.com Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 Membership Coordinator Website: www.awci.com Office Hours: 8:00 to 5:00 (EST) Mon-Fri Watch making Instructor/Certification 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 Coordinator smcmanus@ awci .com 1-866-367-2924 ext. 309 myazijian@ awci.com

64 Horological Times June 2007 SII

®

MADE IN JAPAN

2 ~ ~ ~ KE ~

The brand ·used by Japan•s most experienced watch maker

Sll Micro Parts Ltd. 13F ARCACENTRAL, 1-2-1, Kinshi Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0013, Japan Telephone: +81-3-5819-8021 Facsimile: +81-3-5819-8020 www.siimp.co.jp Seiko Instruments USA Inc. 2990 Lomita Boulevard Torrance, California 90505-51 02 Telephone: 131 0) 517-7771 Facsimile: 131 0) 517-7792 www.siielectroniccomponents.com