A Tuscan Seaside
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INSIDE: Salt, Sand, Serenity: Travel Experts’ Favorite Hideaways 5 A Tuscan Rachael Ray’s Wedding Site 6 Golf Lover’s Dream Seaside Villa Rental 7 Spa Buying Tuscan Real Estate 8 hile connoisseurs and travel- Villa Mangiacane W ers around the world know SPECIAL REPORT:TUSCAN HIDEAWAYS Tuscany’s Antinori family for the excellent wines they have produced for 26 generations, few know that they also own a luxury resort on the dream of Tuscan coast — Tombolo Talasso. Even many of the Italians (who comprise 90% of the guests) visiting the 5-star spa are unaware of the Antinori con- nection until they arrive. Tombolo, about 45 minutes from Pisa, remains something of a secret to foreigners, offering a distinctly Italian spa experience. Volume 5, Issue 2 www.dreamofitaly.com March 2006 ITALY The Antinoris purchased the proper- ty, once a summer camp in the 1930s, five years ago. The design of the This Historic Villa Takes large, airy lobby evokes that era, including a grand staircase reminis- ‘TOP DOG’ HONORS cent of period Hollywood movies. Tombolo’s wine bar, used for wine know very little about translates into “eat dog.” tastings of some 300 labels and deli- Villa Mangiacane the Surely, it must mean some- cious buffet lunches, is on one side of I November evening I thing else, I think. Besides the room, facing a more formal bar arrive at this estate overlook- Italy, dogs are my other great used in the evenings. Large white ing Florence. A trusted col- passion in life. sofas and dark wicker furniture league, aware of my love for accented with animal prints give the both fantastic hotels and the I take a wrong turn and end lobby an exotic and tropical feel. The thrill of discovering them up driving along a dark dirt sensation carried in from the outside, before anyone else, has urged road. Suddenly I know that as the resort is named for tomboli, the me to squeeze a visit into my I’m in the right place when I sand dunes covered with the wild busy itinerary. A quick look at the see the helicopter. Back on track, the Mediterranean vegetation typical of hotel’s Web site, filled with images out drive down a gravel road lined with this coastal area. of a Tuscan fantasy, and I am sold. cypress trees brings me to a truly Interestingly, I note that the Web site exquisite-looking villa; impressive, People come to Tombolo for the sea says Mangiacane has its own helicopter even at night. I suddenly feel under- and all of its restorative powers. In pad. dressed and am glad that at least my fact, the second word in the resort’s car looks nice (the Mercedes was the name — talasso — comes from thalas- The experience is sure to be high-end, only automatic car available for rent). sa, Greek for sea. The private sand but tired from a frenetic trip and not beach in front of the hotel has won feeling up to dressing the part, I’m Nevy, a 30-something Zimbabwean, awards for its purity. The hotel’s airy hoping that “high-end” doesn’t mean walks out to the car and carries our terrace — complete with teak wood “pretentious.” I’m curious, too, about luggage to the entry hall. It is quiet as floors, iron railings and stunning the name of this place — Mangiacane continued on page 2 continued on page 4 “There are places one comes home to that one has never been to.” —Barbara Grizutti Harrison Villa Mangiacane continued from page 1 For all its beauty and refi we step inside what restored frescoes and from Florence and passed time at his seems like a private home. vaulted ceilings. more modest villa, Albergaccio, down For a second, I wonder if I the road where he wrote his most haven’t stumbled into the “Look, over the top of the famous work, The Prince. wrong place. As Nevy trees,” he instructs, point- mentions that we are the ing in the distance to the Joining us on the loggia is Tanja, who only guests that night (it twinkling lights of directs sales and marketing for is off-season), an adorable Florence. “There’s the Mangiacane and lives on the property. chocolate Labrador Duomo,” he says. The She explains that she is tired but elated retriever comes bounding out to greet view during the day — when the cas- from the successful first season the us. The owner’s dog Shumba (meaning cade of vineyards and trees along the hotel has just completed. Young and “lion” in Shona, an African language) is hills can be seen — will prove an equal enthusiastic, Tanja sports a poise the perfect four-legged welcoming thrill. beyond her years as well committee for two die-hard dog lovers. as a South African accent. I cut to the chase and ask Nevy invites us to sit in the reception him about the meaning of The clues to the African room while he fixes us drinks. The the villa’s name. connection make sense minute he is out of sight — getting “Mangiacane,” he says, when I learn more about snacks from the kitchen — Shumba “comes from the Latin the owner. In 2000, South wastes no time in hopping up on the Magnum Cane which means African entrepreneur antique furniture to cuddle up with us. ‘great dog.’ “Ah,” I say, Glynn Cohen bought Nevy returns and shoos him off, apolo- relieved. “I was wondering. That Mangiacane, for a reported 8.5 million gizing for his behavior. The minute he makes much more sense.” €. Zimbabwe-born Cohen made his 2 leaves the room again, Shumba is back fortune by building the largest trans- on the sofa. I later find For all its beauty and portation company in sub-Saharan out that more than one refinement, Mangiacane is Africa. He now divides his time female guest has cried at still a working farm. between South Africa and Europe. the thought of leaving the Fortunately, guests can sweet and spirited puppy take advantage of wine Cohen is active with Friends of Florence, behind. and olive oil tastings. The an association of arts patrons, which estate’s wine, Villa most notably raised funds for the Looking for clues about Mangiacane Chianti restoration of the David, the famous the owner, I take a closer Classico, which debuted in sculpture by Michelangelo. Cohen may look at the framed photos sitting on 2001, comes from the Sangiovese, have a sweet spot in his heart for the top of the baby grand piano. I smile at Canaiolo and Colorino grapes grown Renaissance genius because the archi- the photo of a Neapolitan Mastiff. He here. In reality, Mangiacane has a 500- tecture of Mangiacane has led histori- is Fargo, the owner’s late dog, and the year-old tradition of winemaking, ans to guess that Michelangelo was model for the Mangiacane emblem and beginning with the original involved in the design. The statues at the entrance. Around me, owners during the 16th theory has never been every inch of the walls seems to be century. proven. covered with art, an eclectic mix of European and African works. You may have heard their With Shumba in tow, Nevy name before — Machiavelli. leads us upstairs to our Paolo, who directs the estate’s wine and Cardinal Francesco Maria suite. We must cross the olive oil production, soon arrives to Machiavelli — the uncle of second floor loggia and welcome us. Clearly understanding Renaissance philosopher incredibly, it is even more what will make the quickest and best Niccolo Machiavelli — and breathtaking than the one impression, Paolo invites us to walk Machiavelli relative Pope Urban VIII below. The large, exotic couches, and out to the loggia (a terrace with a roof funded the villa’s construction. dark wood coffee tables combined and three walls), a stunning work of Niccolo, a member of the less wealthy with the mesmerizing view looks like a art in and of itself, with bright, expertly branch of the family, was later exiled photo out of Architectural Digest. “Italy, and the spring and first love all together should suffi inement, Mangiacane is still a working farm. Caption: Africa meets the building’s other seven If I had arrived at Mangiacane at the Renaissance Italy. suites, each one unique, beginning of my trip, there’s a good but filled with elegant chance I would have cancelled the rest Entering our suite, it is antiques and incredible of my reservations and just stayed clear no expense has fabrics. (If you are reserv- here. But I have to catch a plane home. been spared, no detail ing a suite, check the Web overlooked. The sitting site to choose the one you It’s hard to say goodbye, especially to room, filled with like best.) I don’t get to Shumba. If this were a movie, the Julio antiques and decorated visit the palatial Royal Iglesias/Willie Nelson duet “To All the in the very best of Italian Suite, as Cohen and Girls I Have Loved Before” fabrics, has incredibly high ceilings, his fiancée have arrived. Tanja might be playing. I ask Nevy allowing for a loft, containing a bed- tells me that Cohen keeps such and Tanja to take special care room, bathroom and walk-in closet. a low profile that he’s often mis- of my new friend — that taken as just little heartbreaker — as I vow Of all the suite’s offerings another guest. to return to Mangiacane. — an elegant writing The Details There’s little doubt that I desk, cable television I see him as he is will.