INSIDE: Salt, Sand, Serenity: Travel Experts’ Favorite Hideaways 5 A Tuscan Rachael Ray’s Wedding Site 6 Golf Lover’s Dream Seaside Villa Rental 7 Spa Buying Tuscan Real Estate 8 hile connoisseurs and travel- Villa Mangiacane W ers around the world know SPECIAL REPORT:TUSCAN HIDEAWAYS Tuscany’s Antinori family for the excellent wines they have produced for 26 generations, few know that they also own a luxury resort on the dream of Tuscan coast — Tombolo Talasso. Even many of the Italians (who comprise 90% of the guests) visiting the 5-star spa are unaware of the Antinori con- nection until they arrive. Tombolo, about 45 minutes from Pisa, remains something of a secret to foreigners, offering a distinctly Italian spa experience.
Volume 5, Issue 2 www.dreamofitaly.com March 2006 ITALY The Antinoris purchased the proper- ty, once a summer camp in the 1930s, five years ago. The design of the This Historic Villa Takes large, airy lobby evokes that era, including a grand staircase reminis- ‘TOP DOG’ HONORS cent of period Hollywood movies. Tombolo’s wine bar, used for wine know very little about translates into “eat dog.” tastings of some 300 labels and deli- Villa Mangiacane the Surely, it must mean some- cious buffet lunches, is on one side of I November evening I thing else, I think. Besides the room, facing a more formal bar arrive at this estate overlook- Italy, dogs are my other great used in the evenings. Large white ing Florence. A trusted col- passion in life. sofas and dark wicker furniture league, aware of my love for accented with animal prints give the both fantastic hotels and the I take a wrong turn and end lobby an exotic and tropical feel. The thrill of discovering them up driving along a dark dirt sensation carried in from the outside, before anyone else, has urged road. Suddenly I know that as the resort is named for tomboli, the me to squeeze a visit into my I’m in the right place when I sand dunes covered with the wild busy itinerary. A quick look at the see the helicopter. Back on track, the Mediterranean vegetation typical of hotel’s Web site, filled with images out drive down a gravel road lined with this coastal area. of a Tuscan fantasy, and I am sold. cypress trees brings me to a truly Interestingly, I note that the Web site exquisite-looking villa; impressive, People come to Tombolo for the sea says Mangiacane has its own helicopter even at night. I suddenly feel under- and all of its restorative powers. In pad. dressed and am glad that at least my fact, the second word in the resort’s car looks nice (the Mercedes was the name — talasso — comes from thalas- The experience is sure to be high-end, only automatic car available for rent). sa, Greek for sea. The private sand but tired from a frenetic trip and not beach in front of the hotel has won feeling up to dressing the part, I’m Nevy, a 30-something Zimbabwean, awards for its purity. The hotel’s airy hoping that “high-end” doesn’t mean walks out to the car and carries our terrace — complete with teak wood “pretentious.” I’m curious, too, about luggage to the entry hall. It is quiet as floors, iron railings and stunning the name of this place — Mangiacane continued on page 2 continued on page 4 “There are places one comes home to that one has never been to.” —Barbara Grizutti Harrison Villa Mangiacane continued from page 1 For all its beauty and refi
we step inside what restored frescoes and from Florence and passed time at his seems like a private home. vaulted ceilings. more modest villa, Albergaccio, down For a second, I wonder if I the road where he wrote his most haven’t stumbled into the “Look, over the top of the famous work, The Prince. wrong place. As Nevy trees,” he instructs, point- mentions that we are the ing in the distance to the Joining us on the loggia is Tanja, who only guests that night (it twinkling lights of directs sales and marketing for is off-season), an adorable Florence. “There’s the Mangiacane and lives on the property. chocolate Labrador Duomo,” he says. The She explains that she is tired but elated retriever comes bounding out to greet view during the day — when the cas- from the successful first season the us. The owner’s dog Shumba (meaning cade of vineyards and trees along the hotel has just completed. Young and “lion” in Shona, an African language) is hills can be seen — will prove an equal enthusiastic, Tanja sports a poise the perfect four-legged welcoming thrill. beyond her years as well committee for two die-hard dog lovers. as a South African accent. I cut to the chase and ask Nevy invites us to sit in the reception him about the meaning of The clues to the African room while he fixes us drinks. The the villa’s name. connection make sense minute he is out of sight — getting “Mangiacane,” he says, when I learn more about snacks from the kitchen — Shumba “comes from the Latin the owner. In 2000, South wastes no time in hopping up on the Magnum Cane which means African entrepreneur antique furniture to cuddle up with us. ‘great dog.’ “Ah,” I say, Glynn Cohen bought Nevy returns and shoos him off, apolo- relieved. “I was wondering. That Mangiacane, for a reported 8.5 million gizing for his behavior. The minute he makes much more sense.” €. Zimbabwe-born Cohen made his 2 leaves the room again, Shumba is back fortune by building the largest trans- on the sofa. I later find For all its beauty and portation company in sub-Saharan out that more than one refinement, Mangiacane is Africa. He now divides his time female guest has cried at still a working farm. between South Africa and Europe. the thought of leaving the Fortunately, guests can sweet and spirited puppy take advantage of wine Cohen is active with Friends of Florence, behind. and olive oil tastings. The an association of arts patrons, which estate’s wine, Villa most notably raised funds for the Looking for clues about Mangiacane Chianti restoration of the David, the famous the owner, I take a closer Classico, which debuted in sculpture by Michelangelo. Cohen may look at the framed photos sitting on 2001, comes from the Sangiovese, have a sweet spot in his heart for the top of the baby grand piano. I smile at Canaiolo and Colorino grapes grown Renaissance genius because the archi- the photo of a Neapolitan Mastiff. He here. In reality, Mangiacane has a 500- tecture of Mangiacane has led histori- is Fargo, the owner’s late dog, and the year-old tradition of winemaking, ans to guess that Michelangelo was model for the Mangiacane emblem and beginning with the original involved in the design. The statues at the entrance. Around me, owners during the 16th theory has never been every inch of the walls seems to be century. proven. covered with art, an eclectic mix of European and African works. You may have heard their With Shumba in tow, Nevy name before — Machiavelli. leads us upstairs to our Paolo, who directs the estate’s wine and Cardinal Francesco Maria suite. We must cross the olive oil production, soon arrives to Machiavelli — the uncle of second floor loggia and welcome us. Clearly understanding Renaissance philosopher incredibly, it is even more what will make the quickest and best Niccolo Machiavelli — and breathtaking than the one impression, Paolo invites us to walk Machiavelli relative Pope Urban VIII below. The large, exotic couches, and out to the loggia (a terrace with a roof funded the villa’s construction. dark wood coffee tables combined and three walls), a stunning work of Niccolo, a member of the less wealthy with the mesmerizing view looks like a art in and of itself, with bright, expertly branch of the family, was later exiled photo out of Architectural Digest. “Italy, and the spring and first love all together should suffi inement, Mangiacane is still a working farm.
Caption: Africa meets the building’s other seven If I had arrived at Mangiacane at the Renaissance Italy. suites, each one unique, beginning of my trip, there’s a good but filled with elegant chance I would have cancelled the rest Entering our suite, it is antiques and incredible of my reservations and just stayed clear no expense has fabrics. (If you are reserv- here. But I have to catch a plane home. been spared, no detail ing a suite, check the Web overlooked. The sitting site to choose the one you It’s hard to say goodbye, especially to room, filled with like best.) I don’t get to Shumba. If this were a movie, the Julio antiques and decorated visit the palatial Royal Iglesias/Willie Nelson duet “To All the in the very best of Italian Suite, as Cohen and Girls I Have Loved Before” fabrics, has incredibly high ceilings, his fiancée have arrived. Tanja might be playing. I ask Nevy allowing for a loft, containing a bed- tells me that Cohen keeps such and Tanja to take special care room, bathroom and walk-in closet. a low profile that he’s often mis- of my new friend — that taken as just little heartbreaker — as I vow Of all the suite’s offerings another guest. to return to Mangiacane. — an elegant writing The Details There’s little doubt that I desk, cable television I see him as he is will. with numerous English Villa Mangiacane showing a friend channels, Acqua di Parma Via Faltignano, 4 around the prop- It seems that Shumba and bathing products — the San Casciano in Val di Pesa erty, and he says a cordial Mangiacane could even transform a bed surpasses them all. (39) 055 8290123 “hello.” I end up chatting decidedly non-dog person into an These days, nearly every www.mangiacane.com with Cohen’s fiancée as avowed dog lover. luxury hotel claims to she plays catch with Rates: A classic room in the have uber-comfortable Shumba (yes, among all vineyard villa costs 240€ per dream of 3 beds, but Mangiacane those antiques) in one of night during low season and truly does. Imagine just the reception rooms. It 300€ per night in high melting into the soft folds doesn’t get more down season.A suite in the main ITALY of a mammoth-size pil- to earth than that. villa starts at 550€ per night. low. It makes for a deep, Kathleen A. McCabe Breakfast and taxes not Publisher and Editor-In-Chief reinvigorating sleep. The estate’s swimming included. Check the Web pool sits among a collec- site for special packages. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe We eat breakfast in the tion of sculptures by Editorial Assistant: Shauna Maher Design: Leaird Designs main villa dining room Shona artists from www.leaird-designs.com (this is also where guests may have Zimbabwe. Cohen, an enthusiastic dinner by candlelight). The taste of the supporter of African art, sells the Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. warm croissant is sculptures and Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United States almost as satisfying donates the profits to and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include as the view out the African charities. online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. window. My only nit- Three ways to subscribe: pick is that guests are Mangiacane recently 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, € Washington, DC, 20016 charged 21 for added 18 additional 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 breakfast, when I guestrooms as part of 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, would expect it be the new vineyard Mastercard and American Express accepted) included. After meet- villa, a renovated Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] ing Sylvia, a young woman who grew farmhouse. Featuring a contemporary Advertising opportunities are available. up in the area and serves as decor, the rooms provide a more E-mail: [email protected] Mangiacane’s capable concierge, we affordable option than the main villa Copyright © 2006 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights are off to the nearby designer outlets, suites. In June, Mangiacane’s new spa Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide driving directions in hand. will debut, offering beauty treatments information that is accurate and reliable; however, utilizing the restorative properties of Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that When I return, Tanja gives me a tour of wine and olive oil. may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com ce to make the gloomiest person happy.” —Betrand Russell SPA continued from page 1
(entrance costs 40€ for American expat Kirk two hours in the pools). Lemley, who signed on as One way to avoid stick- The Details manager of the property er shock is to visit last year (after managing Tombolo on a package, TOMBOLO TALASSO another fine Tuscan spa, with some treatments RESORT Terme di Saturnia, featured included. Other thalas- Via Del Corallo, 3 in the premiere issue of sotherapies include sea- Marina di Castagneto Carducci Dream of Italy), knew he weed facials and mud (39) 0565 74530 was in the right place applications. www.tombolotalasso.it when he asked the man- Closed in January. agement what their top The nearby wellness priority for Tombolo was. Rates: A classic double room center houses a gym, The cuisine, they said, with a park view starts at 228€ two saunas, a Roman spoken like true Italians. per night, sea view starts at 320€ views — feels like the deck of a cruise bath, a Turkish bath, per night, including breakfast and ship. Hours can be wiled away there and a relaxation room The guest rooms, decorat- taxes. Add 45€ per person, per just taking in the salty breezes. for lounging between ed in neutral colors with day for half board (dinner), 70€ treatments. In a sign of rattan and wood furniture, for full board. Tombolo was one of Italy’s first thalas- seascapes on the walls, are sotherapy centers and is still one of Packages: For a stay of two or more than adequate, but fewer than 10 such spas in the country. more days, a package is usually not of the caliber of other Thalassotherapy is an ancient method the best value as it includes spa 5-star properties. One nice of relaxation based on the use of all treatments and extras. For example touch — free bottled water 4 marine resources: sea water, climate, the two-night Beauty and Thalasso and fruit juices in the seaweed, sea mud and sand. Sea water package includes accommodations, mini-bar. contains a variety of minerals, salts and half board, two entrances to the other elements fundamental for the thalassotherapy pools, one facial While lying on the beach human organism to function and gen- mask and one stone therapy mas- and luxuriating in sea- erates beneficial anti-stress, relaxing sage. Starts at 450€ per person. weed wraps might be and revitalizing effects. It’s used to enough for some guests, treat bone-related diseases, as well as the resort’s family-friendliness, the out- Tombolo’s location provides plenty of circulatory, respiratory and skin prob- door swimming pool is joined by a diversions for active travelers. For lems. pint-sized version for tots. This year, example, the resort offers a golf pack- the resort has introduced packages age starting at 720€ per person for The highlight of such a treatment is a aimed for mothers and their babies or three days, including lodging, half circuit in Tombolo’s five seawater small children. During the summer, the board, greens fees at two courses and pools, housed in a seductive 10,000- chef creates a special menu for chil- two visits to the thalasso pools. square-foot grotto, lit by openings in dren. the ceilings and walls. Each of the five The hotel staff can arrange for horse- pools has a specific shape and func- Speaking of food — Tombolo places back riding, scuba diving, mountain tion. For example, the main pool is 93.2 great importance on the culinary expe- biking or deep sea fishing. The degrees Fahrenheit, the ideal tempera- rience it offers. Most guests choose to medieval hilltop town of Castagneto is ture for water exercise and improving have dinner at the resort, and many only a few minutes away, as are a the skin’s absorption of marine miner- opt for all three meals. The dining number of nature parks and Etruscan als. The Kniepp pool offers a hot and room atmosphere is elegant yet archaelogical parks (see cool water cycle that helps blood circu- relaxed. Maitre de Leonardo, who www.parchivaldicornia.it). Oenophiles lation. speaks English like the majority of the won’t want to miss the Etruscan Wine staff, warmly welcomes guests who Route — the estates (including The thalassotherapy circuit can be enjoy incredibly fresh and satisfying Antinori’s Tenuta Guado al Tasso) where addictive and expensive as a result creations. Bolgheri D.O.C. wines are produced. Tuscan spas became fashiona Tuscany Experts Reveal Their Favorite Hideaways We asked friends of Dream of Italy to share their favorite places in Tuscany.
FAVORITE HIDEAWAY: FAVORITE HIDEAWAY: FAVORITE HIDEAWAY: Osteria and Agriturismo Villa Campestri La Foce
Vecchio Olivo Via di Campestri, 19/22 Strada della Vittoria,61 Montecarlo (15 minutes from Lucca) Vicchio di Mugello Chianciano Terme (39) 0583 228847 (39) 055 8490107 (39) 0578 69101 www.tuscanyholidayhouse.com www.villacampestri.it www.lafoce.com
Why: Look up the term “home cook- Why: Last year, while guiding four Why: This estate in Tuscany’s Val ing” in the dictionary and you will no friends and clients on a cooking adven- d’Orcia dates back to Etruscan times doubt find a picture of the Osteria del ture in Tuscany, I but its significance increased when an Vecchio Olivo. Owned by the Stefanini recommended inn was added in 1498. La Foce was on family, who has been making some of that we all stay at Via Francigena, the road that enabled the region’s finest robust green olive oil Villa Campestri, pilgrims to for four gener- located in a travel directly ations, the medieval town in between the osteria is quin- the rolling hills north of Florence. This two greatest tessentially beautifully restored 13th century villa, sanctuaries of Tuscan. Try sits on a Chianti hilltop surrounded by Christianity, the classics — vineyards and olive trees, and boasts Santiago de Compostela in Spain and St. papardelle con 22 beautiful rooms filled Peter’s in Rome. 5 cinghiale (wild boar), Ribollita (bread with magnificent antiques. For a handful of additional and vegetable soup), Bistecca Fiorentina The property was owned La Foce (“the meeting Tuscan hideaway recommen- (steak) — with the local Montecarlo by the Roti Michelozzi fami- place”) is the former estate Rosso wine and olive oil. The place is ly for 700 years until 1989. dations from our favorite of Antonio and Iris Origo, always packed with locals who know a During March, April, travel experts, visit the who bought it in 1924. Iris good thing when they see (or taste) it. October and November, Dream of Italy Blog at wrote several outstanding The Stefaninis also rent out three Villa Campestri offers books, notably War in Val nicely furnished apartments (starting organized walks, art tours, www.dreamofitaly.com D’Orcia and Images and at 450€) as part of their agriturismo. cooking classes and olive (Or request a list by calling Shadows. It was her books Recommended by: Bill and Suzy Menard, oil tasting. A double room 877-OF-ITALY.) that led to my interest in co-owners, Bella Italia in Bethesda, Maryland, ranges from 144 to 200€ La Foce. La Foce feels www.bellaitaliaonline.com per night, including breakfast. remote, even though it’s a few miles Recommended by: Marlene Iaciofano, president, from Pienza, Chiusi and Montalcino. The Gourmet Getaways, www.gourmetgetaways.biz nine villas on the estate offer total pri- vacy. I’ve stayed at inns and rented vil- FAVORITE HIDEAWAY: of traditional Tuscan las in Tuscany, and La Foce surpasses Bosco della Spina foods. There’s a won- them all. It’s a special place. Rental derful wine list and rates range from 470 to 4,390€ per Lupompesi, 13 outstanding ingredi- week. Murlo ents. The simple Recommended by: Barrie Kerper, author (39) 0577 814605 setting offers an open fireplace and The Collected Traveler book series www.boscodellaspina.com modern architectural style. Bosco della (with editions on Venice and Central Italy) Spina also offers rooms for overnight and frequent Dream of Italy contributor Why: Located halfway between stays. Montalcino and Siena, this is a gem of a Recommended by: Dean Gold, owner, Dino restaurant with modern interpretations restaurant, Washington, D.C., www.dino-dc.com 1 € = $1.20 at press time able in the early 19th century. News, Tips, Deals Rachael Ray’s Tuscan Wedding Hideaway
his is how food maven Rachael Ray, T Food Network star and author of nearly a dozen cookbooks, describes the location of her September wedding to lawyer John Cusimano. Fortunately, this “A cozy, peaceful place, the castle has magical place is something we can all expe- beautiful 360-degree views. From rience, as it is the exquisite 12th century every location you look out over culti- Castello di Velona, a 22-room luxury hotel in vated, manicured land, dotted with Montalcino. In addition to sweeping views grapevines. Each morning, hundreds of the Val D’Orcia, Velona offers a fireplace of darting, soaring swallows sing in every room, a gourmet restaurant and a heated outdoor swimming pool. Guests awesome is that?” Rates start at 210€ per arias. The air smells sweet and rich. can walk from the castle to the Abbey of night, for a double with breakfast. For 6 Everything you see, taste and feel Sant’Antimo to hear monks sing Gregorian more information, call (39) 0577 800101 seems more intense here.” chants.As Ray herself would say,“How or visit www.castellodivelona.it
Where the Truly “Get Away From It All” Tuscan Cowboys on Giglio Roam Less than an hour by ferry from the Tuscan coast is the small island of Giglio — a refreshing retreat for any tired traveler. Ninety percent www.cavallomaremmano.it). uninhabited and home to just 1,600 souls, Giglio isn’t necessarily In addition to multi-day Italy’s most beautiful island (there are alternating patches of green programs, Equinus has a as well as barren land, due to deforestation), but a great place to one-day ride through the escape for peaceful swimming, scuba diving and hiking.With ferries Alberese Nature Park, running daily between 7 a.m. and 7 p.m., from the Tuscan coastal It might be surprising to including a cow drive town of Porto Santo Stefano to Giglio’s main port, the island can learn that Tuscany has its and lunch, priced at 90€ make for an easy day-trip. own breed of cowboys. per person. Riding Holidays If you’re interested in staying longer, consid- The Maremma is the equivalent (215-659-3281; www.riding er Il Pardini’s Hermitage, a rustic/bohemian of Tuscany’s “Wild West” and holidays.com) will offer a week hotel and farm, only reachable by a 20- their cowboys are known as of guided riding twice in 2006 minute boat ride from Giglio’s port. Rooms butteri della Maremma. To sched- (May 13 to 20 and September aren’t much to write home about but that’s ule your own ride with the 16 to 23).The Maremma Trail not the point of visiting. Pardini’s offers butteri or to watch Tour costs $1128 per yoga, pottery and cooking classes, as well as plenty of opportunities to swim in the sea and lounge in the sun, totally undisturbed.A them in action, contact person, including full room with full board starts at 120€ per person, per night. For Italy-based Equinus room and board. more information, call (39) 0564 809034 or visit www.hermit.it (39-0564-24988; 1 € = $1.20 at press time Si stave meglio quando si stava peggio. We were bet and Events G Florence Airport Temporarily A GOLFER’S DREAM: Closed TUSCAN VILLA WITH If you’re looking to visit Florence in the next month or so, an easy flight into the city isn’t PRIVATE 18-HOLE COURSE going to be an option. Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport closed for runway repairs in the begin- f you or someone you love can’t bear to leave ning of February.Airport officials expect the the links behind for a week in Italy, have no I repairs to take three months; at press time, fear, we have a solution. Villa Maremmana, a six- the Italian Tourist Board and major airline car- bedroom, six-bathroom rental property features riers are citing a May 1st reopening, but be its own private 18-hole golf course. Set on 2,300 sure to double check with your airline carrier acres in the Maremma countryside, the estate if you have a flight scheduled into Florence in and course feature lakes, small streams, and large May.While officials say they will be doing oak trees.There’s a private tennis court, pool and everything possible to ensure repairs are com- Turkish bath.The elegantly decorated villa, which pleted on schedule (and reported to indeed has been owned by the same family for a century, be right on schedule as of the beginning of 7 is fully air conditioned. March), they do state that factors like weather Weekly rates range from $12,000 may delay the reopening. But don’t cross the to $15,000 from July through Duomo off your list yet. In the interim, most September and $9,000 to $12,000 scheduled flights are being rerouted to Pisa, during the rest of the year. For more while others are flying into Bologna. Florence is information, call (866) 265-5516 or visit www.hipvillas.com easily accessible by train from either of the two airports, though Pisa, which has a train station in the airport, is your best bet.Train TUSCANY AT-A-GLANCE schedules can be found at www.trenitalia.com – Shauna Maher Web Tip
With the summer travel season upon us, bar- gains on travel to Italy are few and far between. One place to look is – skyauction.com – a fantastic online auction site offering plane tickets (business and coach), tours and hotel packages for Italy.At press time, one auction offered up to eight round- trip tickets between New York and Bologna, good for summer travel, for only $412 (plus taxes and fuel charges of about $190) each. Another offered a seven-night Costa cruise of the Mediterranean with an opening bid of $1! tter off when we were worse off. —Tuscan saying Where to Buy Your Own Tuscan Hideaway
o you’re interested in buying a Leavitt says an apartment or house in- Etruscan museum in Chiusi. The town vacation or retirement home in town gives owners more opportunities is not big but it is dead in the middle S Tuscany but assume that the to blend into the local community, of Rome and Florence (and right on the region has already been picked as they walk to the local bar for train line).” over as its popularity as a a cappuccino, for example. home for expats has sky- While prices vary, Leavitt Vreeland, who owns a house in the rocketed over the last Quick Facts on Buying says an apartment in need Umbrian town of Panicale, also sug- decade (think Frances a Home in Italy of restoration may sell for gests looking in Umbria. “I think it is Mayes and Under the A down payment of 20 to 80,000€ and cost the same somewhat cheaper in Umbria. None of Tuscan Sun)? A small villa 30%, plus commissions and amount to fix up. Many these places are remote. Tuscany is in the popular towns just taxes are required at clos- more of these apartments right there. It just doesn’t dawn on outside Florence, in Chianti ing. Property taxes are are going on the market as them before they get there. Umbria is quite low right now in or near Cortona (made pop- Italy. the Italian population ages almost completely surrounded by ular by Mayes) might start and the birth rate drops. Tuscany.” Leavitt and Vreeland both at 500,000€. But don’t jump Approximately 1,200 to agree that the towns bordering Lake 1,500 ? per square meter is to the conclusion that Stew Vreeland, whose Trasimeno offer good value. a good rule of thumb for there’s nothing left in estimating the cost of ren- company See You in Italy Tuscany nor that it is too ovations. represents properties in Keyitaly.com’s Rennie advises that expensive, say three Italian Tuscany and Umbria, says prospective buyers head north to the It can take two and three real estate experts. The key years from the time you prospective buyers should Garfagnana area.“This is where the best is to know where in Tuscany start thinking renovation consider the town of value is. It is much more rugged and to buy. on a complete re-do to the Chiusi. “That area is mountainous than the ever-popular 8 day you might be able to knockout and is complete- Chianti, it is still within easy reach of John Rennie of the property move in. ly overlooked. The A1 the town of Bagni i Lucca, and indeed Web site keyitaly.com says Source: Seeyouinitaly.com autostrada drops you off not much of a drive to Lucca, Florence, foreign buyers rightfully right there. There’s a big Pisa and the airports,” he says. remain attracted to Tuscany because “it is reassuringly civilized.” Apartment in Sarteano Townhouse in San House in Garfagnana “Tuscany has never been a struggling This two-bedroom, two- Casciano dei Bagni Casa Barcelo is a semi- rural economy, rather a very successful bathroom apartment is This small (538 square feet), detached house with four and affluent one — as you realize located on the top floor of completely furnished town- bedrooms, an original kitchen, when you gaze at vineyards and olive the 16th century Piccolomini house is in move-in condi- two reception rooms, groves that date back hundreds of Palazzo in the center of tion.The town of San terraces and room for a Sarteano. It features a large garden. Needs renovation, years. It means you don’t have to Casciano dei Bagni (10 minutes study, living room with from the Chiusi train station which may take about rough it. There will always be a good € gorgeous old stone fireplace, and A1 autostrada) served as 100,000 to complete. restaurant, a newsagent, a hospital, a € dining room, eat-in kitchen, all the backdrop for the recent Price: 50,000 pharmacist, within reachable distance,” beautifully re-finished. Great memoir A Thousand Days in Contact: www.keyitaly.com he says. views. No elevator. Some Tuscany by Marlena de Blasi. furnishings included. Price: 80,000€ € Sheila Leavitt, a.k.a. the Italy House Price: 400,000 Contact: (207) 846-3714; Scout, who bought her own house near Contact: (617) 840-8267; [email protected] Sarteano five or so years ago, steers her [email protected] clients away from the countryside and into the center of smaller towns, espe- cially in more affordable southern Tuscany. “Some people think they want a villa in the country, but it’s a lot of work and can be isolating,” she notes. 1 € = $1.20 at press time In the 1960s, 70% of foreigners who moved to Tuscany were British.