Linton Visits Beningbrough

Linton On Ouse History Group: Visit To Beningbrough Hall 21 st Sept 2013 Mark the gardener took us round the grounds and explained how and why they had developed into what we see today. Few records of the estate survive. William de Beningbrough leased it to St Leonard’s Hospital York in 12 th century and they used it as kitchen/ herb garden up to 1539. 1500 – 1600 a deer park was north of the estate, remnant of the Galtres forest, and the estate is bound west and north by the River Ouse. Originally it was 6000 acres before 1916 but now is only 300 acres as tenant farms have been sold off. William Gilpin (d.1843) with help from Thomas Foster re-designed the estate with Horse chestnut, Ash and Lime trees but these are now decaying and need replacing. Thomas Foster had been Head Gardener from 1827 to 1866 and was responsible for introducing dahlias into the planting scheme and developing two varieties of grape – unfortunately in the glasshouse these are prone to mildew so it is hoped to try and grow them outside in the near future. There had been 20 gardeners at that time – now there are 4. John Thallun and George Gibson were also gardeners of note here. Lady Chesterfield living here as owner from 1916 liked dahlia borders and autumn colour when entertaining friends to the autumn horse race meetings. The walled kitchen garden is less of a garden than it was, in order to save labour. Old sketches were used to show where paths had been so they could be re-instated. The old pear arch is a still main feature and the fruit and veg now are used in the restaurant. Mistletoe also used to be produced for the Christmas markets but now has died out. The pear trees are not strong enough to have it re- introduced. Heated walls were a common feature in the gardens of many large houses to extend the growing season and allow more exotic plants like apricots to be grown. It also meant the bothys on the north wall (now the potting shed) were where journeymen gardeners lived, as they would have to keep the fires stoked. The walls here were likely to date from 17 th cent and were adapted for this use, with several chimneys along each wall. The south facing wall featured a slip garden. An American garden was a popular feature in many houses around 1800 - Kirby Hall also has one – but they were often re-worked into Chinese or Japanese gardens as fashions changed. Today the American garden still here features few American plants but does have memorial trees –a snake bark Maple 1991, a sugar maple and a red maple along with an English oak (1995) nearby, all planted by RAF veterans from there time here. The land was cleared by Askham Bryan students in the 1970’s and gales reduced the number of mature trees (eg the cedars from 1830’s) soon afterwards. It is now a quiet woodland glade with birdsong and autumn crocus and other bulbs The Ha-Ha was built to give an uninterrupted view of the estate from the House –and to keep the cattle in their place. Recently, it took 4 years to repair. Next to it is a 200+ year old oak and a 150 year old mulberry tree. The ridge across from the Ha Ha is the site of the Roman villa and beyond that the Elizabethan Water garden, next to the site of the original house, the outline of which is still visible in dry summers. Archaeology and a sketch from 1727 have informed this. The North-South double border is mostly in shade and so restricts what thrives; the old dairy and possible brew house frame it. The back wall had a glasshouse – as had the wall by the restaurant for cut flowers – and on the grassy bank there had been a lily pond and rose garden with steps down the bank. Economics will dictate whether this can be re-instated. Looking across the Ha-Ha to the old Elizabethan House The House itself: John met us and took us into the smoking room, one of the few darkly painted rooms in the house. He told us something of the origins of area and how the monks of St Mary’s & St Leonard’s Hospital had developed the land and buildings and then at the Dissolution Henry 8 th took the land, knocked down the buildings and passed it all over to the Astons and thence Banesters and the Bouchiers. Ralph Bouchier (1531 – 98) built a half timbered house to the south of the present house, facing West. This may have flooded. John Bouchier, his great grandson was orphaned and later left on the Grand Tour bringing back with him plans for an Italian Palace like ones he had seen. He replaced the half timbered house with the house we see today a Baroque structure with curved lines and church style high ceilings, begun in 1706 and finished 1716. He re-used panelling from the old house (seen on 1st floor) and some windows (by the kennels) and doors and frames ( playroom, top floor). William Thornton joiner from York (who is buried in St Olave’s church in Marygate), was the main architect builder. Wood carving decoration was used instead of plasterwork. Grindling Gibbons(1648 – 1721) worked here also (he was called the King’s carver from 1680) with a team of Huguenot craftsmen. The house was designed in suites of rooms in the Italian style, in mirror image. Margaret Bouchier was last of the line and she married Giles Earle, had 2 sons who were killed in Napoleonic Wars so the house was willed to a friend, Rev. Dawney. His grandson, Col. Dawney was friends with T E Lawrence (of Arabia) who visited the house. The Colonel lived more often in the south so the house was sold 1912 for £15,000 to Mr Wilson (later 1 st Baron Nunburnholme) who made his money in shipping in Hull. He and his wife ( great niece to the Duke of Wellington) had 4 children – 3 sons were not interested in the house but Enid the daughter, married Viscount Chesterfield and was given the House as a wedding present. The 1920’s style was to strip wood so much of the house was left bare yellow pine with lime wood carvings and gold leaf decoration like an Italian Palace, to impress visitors. Lady Chesterfield set up a stud farm at Beningbrough to breed race horses (Sun Castle won 1941 St Leger) and developed a black Beningbrough breed of Labrador which won at Crufts. During WW2 the government took over Beningbrough as a home for airmen and Lady Chesterfield moved to Home Farm. The 67 English RAF pilots were soon moved to Hull and then Pockllington and replaced by 200 RCAF pilots. Lady Chesterfield died in 1956, the house was taken for death duties and given to the National Trust. Much of the land and tenant farms were also sold. Its uniqueness lay in the fine cantilever staircase and the 18 th century stepped fireplaces – useful display spaces. It was the last house to be taken without a fund or furniture. All the contents represent the 18 th century and were bought separately at auction. Beningbrough Hall now holds 2/3 National collection of 18 th century portraits, as part of the National Portrait Gallery, and a priceless collection of porcelain from the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford. .

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