Explore s

A guide to selected prairies around the state. By Peter Buesseler

ECAUSE I'M the Depart- ment of Natural Re- sources state biologist, people of- Bten ask me where they can go to see a prairie. Fortunately, Minnesota has established an outstanding system of prai- rie preserves. No state in the upper Midwest surpasses Minnesota in terms of acre- age and variety of protected. There is Among the prairies to explore are spectacular probably native prairie closer bluffland prairies located just a few hours south to you than you think. of the Twin Cities along the Mississippi River. When is the best time to visit a prairie? From the first pasque Read about the different prairie flowers and booming of prairie chick- regions and preserves described be- ens in April, to the last asters and low, then plan an outing with family bottle gentians in October, the prairie or friends. The most important thing is a kaleidoscope of color and change. is not when or where to go—just go! So don't worry. Every day is a good The following abbreviations are day to see prairie. used in the list of prairie sites: SNA

30 THE MINNESOTA VOLUNTEER means the prairie is a state scientific wildlife refuge. My personal favorites and natural area; TNC means the are marked with an asterisk (*). Have prairie is owned by The Nature Con- fun exploring your prairie heritage. servancy, a private, nonprofit conser- vation organization; WMA means the During the last ice age (10,000 to site is a state wildlife management 12,000 years ago), a great lake area; and NWR stands for national stretched from Wheaton, Minn., to the

JULY-AUGUST 1990 31 Our Prairie Heritage sandy beach ridges of Glacial . Crookston Today, some of Minnesota's largest

MALMBERG PRAIRIE tracts of prairie are found along this

PEMBINA TRAIL ridge-and-swale topography. The PRESERVE/ YMPANUCHUS crests of the ridges support dry sand MA prairie and gravel prairie (a type of AGASSIZ DUNES dry limestone prairie), dominated by FRENCHMAN'S BLUFF I short and mid-height grasses. The O lower slopes support moist upland and wet lowland prairies. This is one of the last places one can hear the reso-

• FELTON PRAIRIE nant booming of prairie chickens.

Moorhead * Pembina Trail Preserve SNA- TNC, Tympanuchus WMA: 9 miles west of Mentor on County Road 45. Several thousand acres of moist and wet tallgrass prairie. Prairie chickens, ROTHSAY WMA moose. Agassiz Dunes SNA-TNC: 1 mile south and mile west of Fertile on O Breckenridge Highway 32. Dry sand prairie, sand savanna, dunes. Red River Malmberg Prairie SNA-TNC: 9 Valley miles west of Crookston on County Road 9, then 2 miles south on County Northwest Minnesota prairie sites. Road 56. Only tallgrass prairie on Agassiz Lake basin. northern end of Lake Winnipeg in Frenchman's Bluff SNA-TNC: 4 Manitoba. This lake, called Glacial miles east of Syre on Highway 113, Lake Agassiz, occupied what is now then 1'/io miles north on County Road known as the Red River Valley. In the 36. Gravel prairie on glacial hill. central part of the Red River Valley Bluestem Prairie SNA-TNC (Buf- lies the old lake plain, a nearly level falo River State Park): 11 miles east of stretch of rich, silty soils formed un- Moorhead on Highway 10, then 1 mile der water 300 feet deep. On the east- south on Highway 9, then 1 mile east ern edge of the valley, low, steplike on County Road 79. Two beach rises and wet swales mark former ridges; gravel, moist, and wet prairie. Rare plants, prairie chickens. Peter Buesseler is DNR prairie biologist, * Felton Prairie (Bicentennial Prai- Fergus Falls. rie and Blazing Star units SNA-TNC):

32 THE MINNESOTA VOLUNTEER KEITH WENOT

Once widespread, moist upland prairies are now one of the rarest ecosystems in the Midwest. Because of their deep, fertile soil, most of these prairies have been plowed and planted. Indian grass and big bluestem dominated these tallgrass prairies. Purple prairie clover (right) blooms from July to September.

DAN RUDA Our Prairie Heritage DAN RUDA

The burrowing owl (right), a state endangered bird, was reintroduced to its original prairie habitat in 1985. Native prairie and the rare species they shelter are the subjects of intensive inventory by the Minnesota County Biological Survey. DNR field biologist Robert Dana (top right) surveys Rothsay Prairie Wildlife Management Area. Large prairie preserves in the western part of the state harbor the Dakota skipper, a state threatened butterfly (far right). Dense prairie grasses shelter the banded arigope (center). Wet lowland prairies, such as this one in western Minnesota (below), serve as breeding grounds for rare bird species, such as sandhill cranes. Here prairie blazing star is in full bloom.

THE NATURE CONSERVANCY

. - At*. W..« ..i,, •''

R HAMILTON SMITH Before European settlement, prairie burned every three or four years. To maintain native prairie, the Nature Conser- vancy periodically burns its preserves, such as Staffanson Prairie (above) in Douglas County. Fire rejuvenates prairie plants, reducing litter buildup and releasing nutri- ents back into the soil. Following a fire, big bluestem (left) may reach heights of 6 feet or more. Valley

Coteau des Prairies

Prairie preserves to see in south-central and southwestern Minnesota.

2 miles south of Felton on Highway miles north on gravel road. More than 9, then 3 miles east on County Road 4,000 acres of moist and wet prairies. 108 to gravel road, continue '/< mile to Prairie chickens. SNA sign. Chestnut-collared long- Minnesota River Valley spurs, upland sandpipers, and rare From the boulder-strewn terraces butterflies. overlooking the Minnesota River Val- Rothsay WMA: 4 miles west of ley, it is apparent that the present river Rothsay on County Road 26, then 2 is too small to have carved out this

JULY-AUGUST 1990 37 Our Prairie Heritage deep, broad valley. It was, in fact, emergent wetlands, potholes. created by Glacial River Warren, Yellow Bank Hills SNA: 1 mile east which once drained tremendous vol- of Nassau on County Road 24. West- umes of water from Glacial Lake ern hill prairie. Agassiz through southern Minnesota. Ottawa Bluffs TNC: 1 mile east of Prairie remnants can be found on St. Peter on Highway 99, then 4 miles some of the steep valley slopes, boul- north on County Road 23. Dry lime- der-covered abandoned channels of stone prairie. Woodlands, panorama Glacial River Warren, and coarse soils of Minnesota River Valley. of the Big Stone Moraine. Prairie also Kasota Prairie TNC: 1 mile south remains among the granitic outcrops of St. Peter on Highway 22, then exposed in the river valley between southwest on County Road 21 New Ulm and Ortonville. Rock knobs through Kasota, 3/4 mile south on rise up here as much as 100 feet from County Road 21, then 1 '/> miles west the valley floor. The rocky soils sup- on County Road 101. Dry limestone port pincushion cactus, buffalo grass, prairie on the former terrace of Gla- and other plants resembling those cial River Warren. growing in arid regions of the Great Tauer Prairie SNA: 3 miles north of Plains. The granitic outcrops shelter Hanska on County Highway 13, then the state's rarest lizard—the five-lined 2 miles west on County Road 22, then skink. '/« mile north on gravel road. Moist * Chippewa Prairie TNC, Lac qui upland prairie. Parle WMA: 2 xh miles north of Milan Alexandria Moraine on Highway 59, then 2 miles west on One of Minnesota's most scenic prai- gravel road. Western hill prairie, a rie regions, the Alexandria Moraine is kind of dry limestone prairie, over- dotted with small lakes surrounded looking Lac qui Parle. by prairie hills and oak ridges. Most Big Stone NWR: 1 miles south- prairie remnants in this region are east of Ortonville on Highway 7, then gravel prairies found on the crests and south on gravel road at wildlife ref- side slopes of morainic hills. uge sign. Rock outcrops. Cactus, Ordway Prairie TNC: 7 miles east buffalo grass, five-lined skink. of Brooten on County Highway 8, Bonanza Prairie SNA (Big Stone then 3 miles south on Highway 104. Lake State Park): 14 miles northwest Park at the historical marker. Mosaic of Ortonville on Highway 7, then x/i of woods, prairie, hills, marshes. mile west. Western hill prairie, oak * : 2 miles savanna. south of Starbuck on Highway 29, Prairie and Victory WMAs: 1 mile then 2 miles south on County High- north of Ortonville on Highway 75, way 41. Gravel prairie. Rolling prai- then 2 miles east on County Road 12 rie hills, lakes, ponds, marshes. to parking area. Moist to wet prairie, Strandness Prairie TNC: 1 mile

38 THE MINNESOTA VOLUNTEER Mississippi River Bluffs

Wabasha KELLOGG-WEAVER DUNES BEAVER NATURAL AREA- WHITEWATER WMA Twin Cities Metro Area

Southern Oak Barrens

Selected prairie sites to visit in the southeastern part of the state. south of Lowry on Highway 114, then manding view of Lake Christina from xh mile east on gravel road, then 1 'A the summit. miles south on gravel road to park- Staffanson Prairie TNC: 1'/: miles ing area. Gravel prairie. north of Kensington on County Road Seven Sisters Prairie TNC: 3 miles 1, then 2 miles west on gravel road, 1 east of Ashby on State Highway 78. mile north on gravel road, then west Park in the gravel pit at the base of on field road to northeastern corner the hill. Gravel prairie with a com- of preserve. Gravel prairie.

JULY-AUGUST 1990 39 Our Prairie Heritage State Wayside: 4 2, V4 mile east on gravel road. Moist miles west and north of Urbank on upland prairie, Indian rock carvings. County Highway 38. Oak woods, Prairie bush clover, a federally threat- prairie knoll at top, panoramic view. ened species. Coteau des Prairies Prairie Coteau SNA: 10 miles The Coteau des Prairies, or "highland northeast of Pipestone on Highway of the prairies," is a plateau covering 23. Western hill prairie, rolling topog- southwestern Minnesota and eastern raphy. Rare butterflies. . A steep escarpment, Hole-in-the-Mountain Prairie broken by hills, ridges, and deep ra- TNC: 1'/2 miles south of Lake Benton vines, marks the eastern edge of this on Highway 75. Park on field roads plateau. This area is similar to the near top of hill. Natural pass in the more arid mixed grass prairies of escarpment, western hill prairie. Rare South Dakota. butterflies. On the plateau itself little prairie Prairie Bush Clover SNA (Kilen remains, except for areas with out- Woods State Park): 8 V2 miles south of crops of Sioux quartzite, a hard- Windom on County Road 17, then grained, reddish rock estimated to be 1 V2 miles east on County Road 24. 1.475 billion years old. A massive Western hill prairie. Prairie bush outcrop of Sioux quartzite at Blue clover. Mounds State Park forms a cliff more Twin Cities Metro Area than a mile long and more than 100 Prairie and oak savanna once covered feet high. large portions of Anoka, eastern Hen- Pipestone National Monument: nepin, Dakota, and eastern Washing- Northwest corner of the city of ton counties. A few prairie remnants Pipestone. Moist upland prairie. remain on the undeveloped fringes of Quartzite outcrops, ancient Indian the metro area and in hidden corners quarries. too wet or otherwise unsuitable for * : 3'A miles development. north of Luverne on Highway 75, then At a place like Black Dog Preserve, 1 mile east on County Highway 20. the contrast between our urban exis- Moist upland prairie. Quartzite out- tence and our prairie heritage is strik- crop, cliff, ephemeral rock pools with ing. Thousands of people pass by this rare aquatic and semi-aquatic plants area daily on Interstate 35W, and air- adapted to the temporary supply of planes soar overhead; yet the prairie water in the pools. One of Minne- plants and animals at your feet take sota's prime birding spots. you back to a time when Chief Black Historic Site: Dog camped on the surrounding 17 miles north of Windom on High- bluffs, and elk and bison roamed the way 71, then 3 miles east on County hillsides. Road 10,1 mile south on County Road * Black Dog Preserve SNA: I-35W

40 THE MINNESOTA VOLUNTEER Celebrate Minnesota Prairie Day

Join others in celebrating our state's prai- Other Prairie Day Celebrations. O.L. ries: Come to the fourth annual Minnesota Kipp State Park in southeastern Minne- Prairie Day, August 11. sota will feature guided tours of "goat prai- Mid-August is the peak time to enjoy the ries," small openings on steep south- and color and beauty of prairie wildflowers and west-facing bluffs of the Mississippi River. grasses. Join a guided prairie hike, or take Other activities will include an early morn- a wagon ride back in time and visit the ing birding hike; presentations on rattle- French-Indian metis traveling the historic snakes, astronomy, and soil; as well as a Red River oxcart trail. presentation by Paul Gruchow, who writes The celebration actually will begin Fri- about prairies. Call the park: 507-643- day evening, Aug. 10, with "Stories of the 6849. Tallgrass Prairie," a storytelling program In southwestern Minnesota near New at Buffalo River State Park. On Saturday Ulm, Tauer Prairie Scientific and Natural morning the celebration will begin with Area will be dedicated. Call John Schlad- guided hikes on Bluestem Prairie, one of weiler: 507-359-6033. Minnesota's largest prairie preserves, and Lost Valley Prairie near Hastings, one a living history presentation about life on of the best remaining prairies in the metro the Red River oxcart trails. Afternoon area, will host activities along with the activities will include song and dance dem- Carpenter Nature Center. Call Ellen Fuge: onstrations, prairie exhibits, and children's 612-297-3288. pioneer games. An evening barbecue will Pipestone National Monument in be followed by more music. On Sunday a Pipestone will offer guided tours of the car caravan will visit other prairies in the prairie, prairie photography, and pioneer area. For more information, call Buffalo life activities. Call the monument: 507- River State Park: 218-498-2124. 825-5464.

to Burnsville, '/i mile east on Cliff Road County Road 26. Oak savanna, old to parking lot beside city recreation dunes. field. Moist upland prairie. Calcare- Mississippi River Bluffs ous fen, trail. The blufflands region is, geologically Lost Valley Prairie SNA: 2 miles and botanically, one of the most inter- north of Hastings on Highway 61, 1 esting places in the upper Midwest. mile north on Highway 95, 2 miles The original vegetation of the bluff- east on County Road 78, then xh mile lands was predominantly forest. north to edge of prairie. Dry to moist Prairie was confined to sandy river upland prairie on limestone ridges terraces, gently rolling uplands, and and swales. One of the largest remain- small openings on steep south- and ing prairies in the metro area. west-facing bluffs, which are called Helen Allison Savanna SNA-TNC: goat prairies. 1 mile east of Bethel on County Road Goat prairies are still found over 24, then 4 miles south and east on much of their original range. To ex-

JULY-AUGUST 1990 41 Our Prairie Heritage plore these steep, rocky prairies, bring and false wild indigos, and others. your hiking shoes. Also in this region * Wild Indigo SNA: 2'/-i miles west you will find prairie on ancient sand of Brownsdale on County Highway 2, dunes and sand blowouts, areas where 1 mile south on County Highway 16 soil has been exposed and is again to an old railroad grade running 12 Y2 being blown by the wind. miles between the Red Cedar River King's and Queen's Bluff SNA and Dexter. Moist upland prairie (O.L. Kipp State Park): 3 miles west covers the right of way. Wild indigo, of Highway 61 on 1-90, then 1 mile compass plant, wild quinine. north on County Road 12. Goat prai- Iron Horse Prairie SNA: 2 miles rie. Outstanding views of Mississippi south of Hayfield on Highway 56, River. then V2 mile east on County Road M Kellogg-Weaver Dunes SNA: 4.3 to old railroad grade. A 35-acre tri- miles southeast of Kellogg on County angle between two old railroad lines. Road 34. Dry sand prairie on rolling Shooting Star Prairie SNA: 4 miles dunes; 14 rare plants and animals, northwest of Le Roy on Highway 56. including butterflies and Blanding's Moist upland prairie, part of a state turtles. highway wildflower route. Beaver Natural Area-Whitewater Hythecker Prairie SNA: 1 mile WMA: 4 miles north of Elba on south and 1 'h miles west of Claremont County Road 74 to Beaver, then '/s mile on County Road 1. One of the largest east on County Road 30. Stop at the moist upland prairies left in southern gate across the gravel road on the Minnesota. north side of County Road 30 and Racine Prairie SNA: 1 mile north walk into the area. Sand prairie, oak of Racine on Highway 63. Moist up- savanna. Goat's-rue, fameflower, land prairie. Rare plants. • sand milkweed. Southern Oak Barrens To learn more about these and other prai- Prairie in this region—one of ries, see the following publications. A Di- Minnesota's most productive farming rectory of Scientific and Natural Ar- areas—has almost entirely disap- eas, from: DNR Information Center, 500 peared. What remains is largely con- Lafayette Road, St. Paul, MN 55155- fined to railroad and highway rights 4040. Phone:612-296-6157. Toll-free in of way. Yet these small strips harbor Minnesota: 800-652-9747 (ask for DNR). some of the richest prairies in the Telecommunications Device for the Deaf: state. This is the true tallgrass prai- 612-296-5484. For a copy of the Nature rie. Big bluestem and Indian grass Conservancy's The Minnesota Chapter grow 5 to 7 feet tall. Prairie species Preserve Guide, send check or money found here but rare elsewhere include order for $5 to: Preserve Guide, TNC, rattlesnake master, wild quinine, 1313 Fifth St. S.E., , MN compass plant, Indian plantain, cream 55414. Phone: 612-379-2134.

42 THE MINNESOTA VOLUNTEER