High Flying Fashion! the Evolution of Flight Apparel for Pioneering Women Pilots by Barbara Schultz
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High Flying Fashion! The Evolution of Flight Apparel for Pioneering Women Pilots By Barbara Schultz Bessica Raiche and her husband built an airplane in their living room. She determined after her first solo flight on Mrs. Hart O. Berg – first American woman to fly in an airplane. September 16, 1910, that a skirt had no place in the cockpit. Note the rope around her skirt. (ctie.monash.edu.au image) (wikimedia commons) “Although flying was a fashionable sport, it was still regarded as something very unusual and a sign of bravado for a woman to become a pilot.” 1 ollowing the Wright brothers’ successful 1903 launch floor, corsets contorted the female figure into grotesque of an aircraft, aviation was endowed with seemingly S-curves and exaggerated hourglass shapes, and frills and Fendless possibilities. Enthusiasts began constructing ruffles weighted everything down and lent the costumes airplanes and acquiring powerplants. Male pilots donned of the period a distinctly over-decorated look. Only a their flying suits with bravado, amazing the public in fragile few months before Harriet Quimby and Matilde Moisant linen and wood craft. They were awarded hero status; women learned to fly, a great breakthrough occurred. Skirts were swooned whenever they chanced to be in their presence. raised enough to show off a well-turned ankle. But this But what about the women – those who defied stereotypes radical – some thought it scandalous – development was and earned the right to operate the controls of an airplane? The far from the ideal costume for making a flight in the open underlying problem the women faced was that aviation provided cockpit planes of the time.” 2 no role for them in either the cockpit or in any other related capacity. Women as airplane passengers was inconceivable. As women began participating in sports on a regular The passing of time, however, would eventually afford basis in the late 1800s, the need for practical clothing became women acceptance in the world of aviation, albeit limited. In apparent. Regulation clothing for the ladies competing at the interim, it would be quite an adventure as they explored Wimbledon required long skirts and corsets. It’s no surprise potential options for appropriate flying attire that was morally that many fainted during a match. Straddling a bicycle in a acceptable. Pants were out of the question although women gown measuring five yards at the hemline proved a daunting working in factories or on ranches in the late 1800s were often task at best. The first attempt to make ‘adjustments’ to women’s seen wearing them. active wear occurred when parachuting became popular. The According to Sherwood Harris, fashion restrictions made it jumper, male or female was required to roll over on their difficult for women pilots to find suitable clothing. back and thrust their legs upward to avoid a spinal injury. To maintain a semblance of propriety, British Parachute Queen “For centuries women’s fashions seemingly had Dolly Shepherd traded her skirt for a navy-blue knickerbocker been designed to prevent them from stepping out of suit with gold trim, long front-laced boots, and a high-peaked their limited lives and into more active competition with cap. The suit added an element of flair to her performance and, their men. At the turn of the century, skirts dragged the at the same time, preserved her dignity.3 272 American Aviation Historical Society Journal, Winter 2019 Ramonde de la Roche tied a string around her Ruth Law’s pants were baggy Dubbed the Flying School Girl, skirt to go aloft and set the woman’s altitude but not voluminous. (All images Katherine Stinson’s pants appear to be record on July 1, 1919. (thisdayinaviation.com) are the author’s unless otherwise much baggier than those of Ruth Law. noted.) Mrs. Hart O. Berg, first American as knickers when lacing up high top woman to fly in an airplane, secured boots. Headgear was delegated to the her full skirt by having a rope wrapped preference of the aviatrix. This ranged around its bottom that allowed her to from an automobile cap, functional thoroughly enjoy her 1908 flight at Le hood, beret, or knit cap. Mans, France. While testing her home- Harriet Quimby, the first American built aircraft in 1910, Bessica Raiche, first woman to receive a pilot’s license American woman to make an intentional and consistent contributor to Leslie’s flight, quickly realized that wearing a illustrated Weekly, stated in a 1911 skirt was a big mistake. The wind lifted article: If a woman wants to fly, first of it and hampered the safe control of the all she must, of course, abandon skirts plane. Her alternative to skirts was and don a knickerbocker uniform.5 riding breeches until she had leather With that being said, Harriet pants, a jacket, and a helmet made. enlisted the help of the American That same year, Ramonde de la Roche Tailors’ Association President (born Elise Deroche), the first woman Alexander M. Grean to design a flying to receive a pilot’s license, tied a string costume for her. This resulted in a around her skirt, topped by a white purple suit made of thick wool-backed aviator’s sweater. 4 satin with an attached hood but without Skirts were gradually replaced a lining. The walking skirt could be with an assortment of pants as clothing converted into knickers by closing restrictions for women continued to Harriet Quimby chose to have a custom the rows of buttons on the inside relax. Before the transition to knickers flying suit made by an experienced tailor. seams. The blouse sleeves were cut and jodhpurs, the ladies often wore The vivid color of her ‘flying dress’ attracted with long shoulder seams and fastened men’s pants tucked into high-top boots. a great deal of attention. under the arm. The rest of Harriet’s Pioneering aviatrices Ruth Law and flying ensemble included high-laced Katherine Stinson wore extremely baggy pants secured by leather boots, uniquely styled goggles, and her ever-present their boots. When women began to abandon riding sidesaddle earrings. During her 1912 record-setting flight across the to ride astride, jodhpurs became popular. A South Asian English Channel, she wore a woolen coat and raincoat over her style of pant, jodhpurs were snug fitting from the knee to the flying dress and secured a hot water bottle inside the coats for ankle, flaring at the hip to allow for comfort while sitting in added warmth. Some references note she wore two sets of long the saddle – or cockpit. They also proved to be as functional underwear as well.6 273 Matilde Moisant, as petite as Quimby, leather. To accompany it, Matilde wore reflected on fashions for flying. “How shall knee-high brown leather boots with brown we dress for flying? Simply, sensibly, with pearl buttons and gauntlet gloves that only two ideas uppermost in the planning matched the boots.8 of the outfit – material that will meet such Blanche Stuart Scott’s appearance cloud foes as rain and cold and a pattern proved to be the antithesis of Harriet that will give the woman who is operating and Matilde’s ‘delicate’ images. The the machine freedom of action and the press described Blanche, who made an chance for safe work. Aeroplaning does unintentional flight on September 2, 1910, not call for frills. as a ‘robust’ woman. She wore bulky “When I first began my lessons, sweaters with long skirts and sported a I pulled over my shirt waist a regular soft leather helmet over her ample head mechanics suit of brown – a one-piece of red hair. At one point, she designed overall with long sleeves, high neck and a smooth satin jumpsuit to wear. If she buttons straight down the front. Rubber was attempting to look ‘sleek,’ this was snaps held the trousers in about the ankles. defeated when the layers of petticoats worn Miss Harriet Quimby wore the same thing. for warmth bulged clown-like around her I was so small I had to have my suit made, thighs.9 for the very smallest man’s size was too A 1910 Los Angeles Times article large for me. We kept on wearing these described Belgian aviatrix Hélène Dutrieu’s suits until we were graduate aviators and flying apparel. It appears that the divided we had our licenses . But when we skirt or hidden bloomers were becoming became regularly licensed aviators we popular. “Her drab-colored costume of found we had to create our own fashions cravenette (water-repellant) serge caught . We had no present-day models or Matilde Moisant experimented with the feminine eye as she swung across the ancestral fashion books to which to turn different flying suits until being flying field. Her two-piece suit consists of a for ideas. One thing I had determined satisfied with the design. blouse and a divided skirt with a suggestion upon, however, I would not wear of the harem. The two garments the bloomer. At least, so I argued are joined by a black patent leather to myself, I would remain feminine belt and a Norfolk jacket effect is even if I were about to indulge in obtained by an arrangement sewed a support heretofore considered on the upper part of the skirt that wholly masculine.”7 falls gracefully over the feet when Matilde lost no time in having she walks and with a button and an appropriate flying suit designed. strap secured around her ankles “It was made of heavy Navy and before she mounts her Farman Army cloth of brownish color. The biplane.” Reported immodestly suit is one piece, the upper half a was the fact that Dutrieu flew bodice fashioned similarly to a uncorseted, considered immoral, well-tailored uniform and buttoned Blanche Stuart Scott, Tomboy of the Air, made an thoughtless and ‘promiscuous’ down one side.