Clio's Scroll with Its Editor, Geraint Hughes, Who Enthusiastically Embraced the Project
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Swagger Like Us: Black Millennials' Perceptions of 1990S Urban Brands
Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Graduate Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 2018 Swagger like us: Black millennials’ perceptions of 1990s urban brands Courtney Danielle Johnson Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd Part of the American Material Culture Commons, and the Fashion Design Commons Recommended Citation Johnson, Courtney Danielle, "Swagger like us: Black millennials’ perceptions of 1990s urban brands" (2018). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. 16600. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd/16600 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Swagger like us: Black millennials’ perceptions of 1990s urban brands by Courtney Danielle Johnson A thesis submitted to the graduate faculty in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE Major: Apparel, Merchandising and Design Program of study committee: Eulanda A. Sanders, Co-major Professor Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Co-major Professor Tera Jordan The student author, whose presentation of the scholarship herein was approved by the program of study committee, is solely responsible for the content of this thesis. The Graduate College will ensure this thesis is globally accessible and will not permit alterations after a degree is conferred. Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 2018 Copyright © Courtney Danielle Johnson, 2018. All rights reserved. ii DEDICATION This thesis is dedicated to Black folks. -
Saint Demetrios of Thessaloniki
Master of Philosophy Faculty of Arts University of Glasgow Saint Demetrios of Thessaloniki By Lena Kousouros Christie's Education London Master's Programme September 2000 ProQuest Number: 13818861 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a com plete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. uest ProQuest 13818861 Published by ProQuest LLC(2018). Copyright of the Dissertation is held by the Author. All rights reserved. This work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States C ode Microform Edition © ProQuest LLC. ProQuest LLC. 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106- 1346 ^ v r r ARV- ^ [2,5 2 . 0 A b stract This thesis intends to explore the various forms the representations of Saint Demetrios took, in Thessaloniki and throughout Byzantium. The study of the image of Saint Demetrios is an endeavour of considerable length, consisting of numerous aspects. A constant issue running throughout the body of the project is the function of Saint Demetrios as patron Saint of Thessaloniki and his ever present protective image. The first paper of the thesis will focus on the transformation of the Saint’s image from courtly figure to military warrior. Links between the main text concerning Saint Demetrios, The Miracles, and the artefacts will be made and the transformation of his image will be observed on a multitude of media. -
CCP Coercion of U.S. Companies V3
Chinese Communist Party (CCP) Coercion of U.S. Companies The Chinese Communist Party (CCP) frequently pressures and coerces U.S. compa- nies to conform to its political values and foreign policy. Because of China’s market size, individual companies often feel as though they have no option but to comply with CCP demands. 1. Tiffany & Co. (October 8, 2019) Tiffany & Co. removed a tweeted advertisement featuring a Chinese model wearing a Tiffany ring and covering her right eye with her right hand, a pose many Chinese social media accounts claimed referenced a pose that has come to be associated with the Hong Kong protest movement. 2. Activision Blizzard (October 8, 2019) Activision Blizzard suspended Hong Kong-based Chung Ng Wai, a professional player of one of its online games, after Chung expressed support for Hong Kong protesters in a post-game interview. In addition to making Chung ineligible to receive prize money he had earned in 2019, the company fired the two individuals who conducted the interview with Chung. 3. South Park (October 8, 2019) Comedy Central’s “South Park” was removed from major video streaming plat- forms in China after the cartoon aired an episode satirizing the PRC government’s retaliation against U.S. companies for statements in support of Hong Kong. 4. Houston Rockets/NBA (October 6-8, 2019) After Daryl Morey, General Manager of National Basketball Association (NBA) team the Houston Rockets, tweeted an image with the caption “Fight for Freedom. Stand with Hong Kong,” the PRC consulate in Houston “lodged representations” and demanded the team “correct the error” and “eliminate the adverse impact.” Soon thereafter, the Chinese Basketball Association, Chinese sportswear brand Li-Ning, Shanghai Pudong Development Bank Credit Card Center, Chinese tech companies Tencent and Vivo, and PRC state media outlet CCTV suspended cooperation with the team. -
The Ethics of the International Display of Fashion in the Museum, 49 Case W
Case Western Reserve Journal of International Law Volume 49 | Issue 1 2017 The thicE s of the International Display of Fashion in the Museum Felicia Caponigri Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarlycommons.law.case.edu/jil Part of the International Law Commons Recommended Citation Felicia Caponigri, The Ethics of the International Display of Fashion in the Museum, 49 Case W. Res. J. Int'l L. 135 (2017) Available at: https://scholarlycommons.law.case.edu/jil/vol49/iss1/10 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Journals at Case Western Reserve University School of Law Scholarly Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Case Western Reserve Journal of International Law by an authorized administrator of Case Western Reserve University School of Law Scholarly Commons. Case Western Reserve Journal of International Law 49(2017) THE ETHICS OF THE INTERNATIONAL DISPLAY OF FASHION IN THE MUSEUM Felicia Caponigri* CONTENTS I. Introduction................................................................................135 II. Fashion as Cultural Heritage...................................................138 III. The International Council of Museums and its Code of Ethics .....................................................................................144 A. The International Council of Museums’ Code of Ethics provides general principles of international law...........................................146 B. The standard that when there is a conflict of interest between the museum and an individual, the interests of the museum should prevail seems likely to become a rule of customary international law .................................................................................................149 IV. China: Through the Looking Glass at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.......................................................................162 A. Anna Wintour and Condé Nast: A broad museum interest for trustees and a semi-broad museum interest for sponsors .................164 B. -
From the Baffler No. 23, 2013]
Facebook Feminism, Like It or Not SUSAN FALUDI [from The Baffler No. 23, 2013] The congregation swooned as she bounded on stage, the prophet sealskin sleek in her black skinny ankle pants and black ballet flats, a lavalier microphone clipped to the V-neck of her black button-down sweater. ―All right!! Let‘s go!!‖ she exclaimed, throwing out her arms and pacing the platform before inspirational graphics of glossy young businesswomen in managerial action poses. ―Super excited to have all of you here!!‖ ―Whoo!!‖ the young women in the audience replied. The camera, which was livestreaming the event in the Menlo Park, California, auditorium to college campuses worldwide, panned the rows of well-heeled Stanford University econ majors and MBA candidates. Some clutched copies of the day‘s hymnal: the speaker‘s new book, which promised to dismantle ―internal obstacles‖ preventing them from ―acquiring power.‖ The atmosphere was TED-Talk-cum-tent-revival-cum- Mary-Kay-cosmetics-convention. The salvation these adherents sought on this April day in 2013 was admittance to the pearly gates of the corporate corner office. ―Stand up,‖ the prophet instructed, ―if you‘ve ever said out loud, to another human being—and you have to have said it out loud—‗I am going to be the number one person in my field. I will be the CEO of a major company. I will be governor. I will be the number one person in my field.‘‖ A small, although not inconsiderable, percentage of the young women rose to their feet. The speaker consoled those still seated; she, too, had once been one of them. -
The Evolution of Streetwear
The Evolution of Streetwear The newfound reality of Streetwear and its luxury-like management Trabalho Final na modalidade de Dissertação apresentado à Universidade Católica Portuguesa para obtenção do grau de mestre em Marketing por Miguel Lobo de Macedo sob orientação de Professora Doutora Joana César Machado Universidade Católica, Faculdade de Economia e Gestão, Maio de 2015 Acknowledgements Máximo 1 página (facultativo) Abstract Purpose: To explore the critical dimensions of successful streetwear brands and how they garner customers’ attention, devotion and regard for the brand. Ultimately, the goal is to compare the anatomy of a streetwear brand to that of a luxury fashion brand and analyze the main differences and similarities between the two in order to understand how a streetwear brand, Supreme, operates in its niche market. By using a case study approach, this study plans on analyzing the newfound reality of streetwear, the reasons for its unprecedented consumption and what the biggest brands in this industry do in order to appeal, constantly, to different crowds: the devoted followers and the fashion-driven consumers. With this in mind, the study intends to validate the relevancy of these streetwear labels in today’s luxury fashion markets. Findings: The aspirational consumer of today’s streetwear will be the aspirational consumer of the eventual luxury market of tomorrow. I understand that there is still a lot to be studied within this streetwear industry but believe to have validated the importance of these brands in the purchasing intention of today’s consumers, by deconstructing the brands. Three important levels of analysis cement my study. -
How Fashion Erased the Politics of Streetwear in 2017
City University of New York (CUNY) CUNY Academic Works Capstones Craig Newmark Graduate School of Journalism Fall 12-15-2017 Mask On: How Fashion Erased the Politics of Streetwear in 2017 Frances Sola-Santiago How does access to this work benefit ou?y Let us know! More information about this work at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/gj_etds/219 Discover additional works at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu This work is made publicly available by the City University of New York (CUNY). Contact: [email protected] Mask On: How Fashion Erased the Politics of Streetwear in 2017 By Frances Sola-Santiago Hip-hop culture dominated the fashion zeitgeist in 2017. From a Louis Vuitton and Supreme collaboration to Gucci’s support of Harlem designer Dapper Dan’s store reopening, the fashion industry welcomed Black culture into the highest echelons of high fashion. Rapper Cardi B became the darling of New York Fashion Week in September after being rejected by designers throughout most of her career. Marc Jacobs traded the runway for the street, staging a show that included bucket hats, oversized jackets, and loads of corduroy on a large number of models of color. But while the industry appeared to diversify by acknowledging the indomitable force of hip-hop culture, it truly didn’t. The politics of hip-hop and Black culture were left out of the conversation and the players behind-the-scenes remained a homogeneous mass of privileged white Westerners. Nearly every high fashion brand this year capitalized on streetwear— a style of clothing born out of hip-hop culture in marginalized neighborhoods of New York City and Los Angeles, and none recognized the historical, cultural, and political heritage that made streetwear a worldwide phenomenon, symbolizing power and cool. -
THE CLOISTERS ARCHIVES Collection No. 43 the Harry Bober
THE CLOISTERS ARCHIVES Collection No. 43 The Harry Bober Papers Processed 1995, 2013 The Cloisters Library The Metropolitan Museum of Art Ft. Tryon Park 99 Margaret Corbin Dr. New York, NY 10040 (212) 396-5365 [email protected] 0 TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE…….…………………………………………..……………….….…………………2 ADMINISTRATIVE INFORMATION…….……………….………….………………….……3 HARRY BOBER TIME LINE…….…………………………………………………….………4 HARRY BOBER BIBLIOGRAPHY…….…………………………………..…………….……5 SCOPE AND CONTENT NOTE…….………………………………………….………..……..8 SERIES DESCRIPTIONS…….………………………………………………………….…….10 CONTAINER LISTS Series I. Card Files…………….……………………………………………..……..13-30 Series II. Research Files………….……………………………………...…………31- 72 Series III. Publications ………….…………………………………………….…..73 Series IV. Slides………….……………………………………………..….………..74-77 Series V. Glass Plate Negatives………….…………………………………….………..78 Series VI. Negative Films………….………………………………………..………79-81 Series VII. Oversize Material………….……………………………….....……....…82-83 Series VIII. 1974 Messenger Lectures, Recordings (tapes and CDs) …………....…..…84 1 PREFACE In 1991, the papers of Harry Bober were donated to the Metropolitan Museum of Art by his sons, David and Jonathan Bober. The collection was delivered to the Medieval Department of the museum, where it was housed until its transfer to The Cloisters Archives during the summer of 1993. Funding for the first year of a two-year processing project was provided through the generosity of Shelby White and Leon Levy. The first year of the project to process the Harry Bober Papers began in August of 1994 and ended in August of 1995, conducted by Associate Archivist Elaine M. Stomber. Tasks completed within the first year included: rehousing the collection within appropriate archival folders and boxing systems; transferring original folder titles to new folders; conservation repair work to the deteriorating card file system; creating a container list to Bober's original filing system; transferring published material from research files; and preparing a preliminary finding aid to the collection. -
ITALIAN ART SOCIETY NEWSLETTER XXIX, 3, Fall 2018
ITALIAN ART SOCIETY NEWSLETTER XXIX, 3, Fall 2018 An Affiliated Society of: College Art Association Society of Architectural Historians International Congress on Medieval Studies Renaissance Society of America Sixteenth Century Society & Conference American Association of Italian Studies President’s Message from Sean Roberts Rosen and I, quite a few of our officers and committee members were able to attend and our gathering in Rome September 15, 2018 served too as an opportunity for the Membership, Outreach, and Development committee to meet and talk strategy. Dear Members of the Italian Art Society: We are, as always, deeply grateful to the Samuel H. Kress Foundation for their support this past decade of these With a new semester (and a new academic year) important events. This year’s lecture was the last under our upon us once again, I write to provide a few highlights of current grant agreement and much of my time at the moment IAS activities in the past months. As ever, I am deeply is dedicated to finalizing our application to continue the grateful to all of our members and especially to those lecture series forward into next year and beyond. As I work who continue to serve on committees, our board, and to present the case for the value of these trans-continental executive council. It takes the hard work of a great exchanges, I appeal to any of you who have had the chance number of you to make everything we do possible. As I to attend this year’s lecture or one of our previous lectures to approach the end of my term as President this winter, I write to me about that experience. -
He Sanctuary Series
T S S HE ANCTUARY ERIES A Compilation of Saint U News Articles h ON THE g Saints Depicted in the Murals & Statuary of Saint Ursula Church OUR CHURCH, LIVE IN HRIST, A C LED BY THE APOSTLES O ver the main doors of St. Ursula Church, the large window pictures the Apostles looking upward to an ascending Jesus. Directly opposite facing the congregation is the wall with the new painting of the Apostles. The journey of faith we all make begins with the teaching of the Apostles, leads us through Baptism, toward altar and the Apostles guiding us by pulpit and altar to Christ himself pictured so clearly on the three-fold front of the Tabernacle. The lively multi-experiences of all those on the journey are reflected in the multi-colors of the pillars. W e are all connected by Christ with whom we journey, He the vine, we the branches, uniting us in faith, hope, and love connected to the Apostles and one another. O ur newly redone interior, rededicated on June 16, 2013, was the result of a collaboration between our many parishioners, the Intelligent Design Group (architect), the artistic designs of New Guild Studios, and the management and supervision of many craftsmen and technicians by Landau Building Company. I n March 2014, the Landau Building Company, in a category with four other projects, won a first place award from the Master Builders Association in the area of “Excellence in Craftsmanship by a General Contractor” for their work on the renovations at St. Ursula. A fter the extensive renovation to the church, our parish community began asking questions about the Apostles on the Sanctuary wall and wishing to know who they were. -
Versace's Native American
VERSACE’S NATIVE AMERICAN A COLONIZED FEMALE BODY IN THE NAME OF AESTHETIC AND DYNASTIC GLORY 1 In this contemporary moment fashion designers have the means to collaborate with Native American fashion designers. However, there is still a flourishing fashion market that refuses to recognize Native American tribes as owners of intellectual property.1 While some brands may initially start on the right track via collaboration with Native artists, it may not always end in success.2 Most recently, Versace has included Native American designs in their ready-to-wear fashion for the 2018 Spring-Summer season. This component of the collection belongs to a tribute honoring Gianni Versace and his original FW ’92 Native American print (Figures 1 and 2).3 I will be discussing the implications of the revived Native American print and how it affects Native North American men and women. In this essay, I will look at Versace’s legacy and his original print; the new Native American Tribute Collection by Donatella Versace; and Donna Karan’s collaboration with Pueblo artist, Virgil Ortiz. I argue that respectful recognition of Native North American property is thrown aside for aesthetic and dynastic glory, which in turn, allows non-Native designers to colonize the ‘exotic’ Native woman’s body by denying Native North American men and women the opportunity to represent themselves to the global fashion community. Virgil Ortiz’s collaboration with Donna Karan illustrates how respectful collaboration can shape the dominant society’s perception of Native North American women. If we use Native North American fashion as a framework to understand how Native designers are working to dismantle mainstream stereotypes, it is imperative that global designers 1 “Navajo Nation Sues Urban Outfitters,” Business Law Daily, March 18, 2012. -
Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines
Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity