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Cheongsam, China's Cultural & Fashion History Heritage

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Cheongsam, China's Cultural & Fashion History Heritage SSRG International Journal of Humanities and Social Science (SSRG-IJHSS) – Volume 6 Issue 6 – Nov - Dec 2019 Cheongsam, China‟s Cultural & Fashion History Heritage Daniel Otero Foreign Teacher, English Department Shenzhen Guangming Foreign Languages School A606, Baodawu, Bangkaicheng, No. 9 Bangkai Road (Guangyuanwu Road) 广东省深圳市光明新区邦凯路(光源五路)9 号邦凯城宝达屋 A606 Guangming District Shenzhen, Guangdong Province, China 86-13618056083 Abstract Sadly, it fell into a negative stereotype during The iconic dress which started with the Qing the war years (1937 to 1945). But came back after Dynasty 300+ years before: began with a loose- that terrible conflict to reign supreme by Asian stylist. fitting outfit only worn by the upper-class elites, Whether it was in the Hong Kong cinema of the landowners, nobles and royals. It shot into 1960s or all the way to Hollywood, every time an international stardom when the fashionista of the actress performed the part of a Chinese woman--she times began taking this unique silk dress and made it wore the beautiful and provocative dress. form fitting by the 1920s Shanghai for women. After The dress made a comeback when and as only 100 years, this fashion hasn’t gone out of style, but one person could do, the politically savvy, Soong has continued to grow inside China and abroad. Mei-ling. She wore and expressed its true sexiness First, called the ‘changpao’ and ‘qipao’ in Mandarin through the photos and reels taken of her at the time. Chinese, it was later adapted into the word But it was the actress, Maggie Cheung as Mrs. cheongsam (Shanghai word adapted to English, Chan who really highlighted the style in the meaning long shirt or dress). It was worn by men cinematic-classic, „In the Mood for Love‟ (2000 - and women, but this dress signifies mostly with Romantic/Drama). Delicate, soft, enigmatic and females for its femininity, softness and beauty. It captivating. This dress was to conquer through the identifies with China, its character and with Chinese whole movie. It wasn‟t only Ms. Cheung‟s acting females in the proud way in which they wear it. What abilities which popped crisply across the celluloid. It this investigative paper intends to do is identify the was also the dress that made you do a „double take‟ history, the continuance of the style after a century in every sequence and scene of the film.[1] and through interviews show what this fashion icon Then entered Ang Lee‟s controversial-film, „Lust, means to China/Chinese. Furthermore, the paper Caution‟ (2007 - Wartime/Drama); which highlighted tries to learn/explore more about the color Tang Wei‟s acting ability, as she gloriously wore the coordination and what does it represent. qipaos. Eileen Chang was spot and befitting in the way she integrated into her novella the elements of Keywords — Qing Dynasty, Changpao, Qipao, history and fashion, like the cheongsam for Cheongsam, Chinese fashion, Shanghai 1920s, Shanghai‟s socialites--upon Japan‟s invasion of Chinese-cultural history and Chinese weddings. China during World War II.[2] Classic beauties like the actress, Gong Li have I. INTRODUCTION worn the fashion for decades and it has shown that What began by Emperors and Empresses in she is the quintessential Chinese beauty. Because Mainland China over three centuries before, extended only she can exalt this outfit and never let her fans onto the general population of nobles and landowners. down. With the early 20th Century, it continued to influence People may have their opinions about the dress, and went on to the general population after the 1911 whether they like it or not, it is part of Chinese- Revolution. It influenced and influences anywhere in everyday culture. And as one person expressed once the world where Chinese expats have established in a written comment of the former Hangzhou Weekly roots. The dress in itself is not only worn by Asian website, that it was more a part of the Manchus than females, but it‟s also worn by females attractively so Chinese history. But comments do continue, all the around the world. This dress took hold in same.[3] With the former statement, I had to international popularity when in Shanghai it was completely disagree, since without one cannot come changed from the long dress to one which hugs the other. Manchus and China‟s history are beautifully the female body. The style accentuates to completely linked for better or worse.[4] woman‟s anatomy, holds to it in a classical-fad The qipao is evolving and has evolved in the manner and never in an ordinary way. last three-plus-centuries, since it was worn in the court-palace at Beijing to the streets of Shanghai. ISSN: 2394 - 2703 www.internationaljournalssrg.org Page 59 SSRG International Journal of Humanities and Social Science (SSRG-IJHSS) – Volume 6 Issue 6 – Nov - Dec 2019 Not enough to remain a part of the upper-classes, but With that said, this is dedicated not only to the qipao later the commoner would have a literal enjoyment in edition of the dress; moreover, its an inspiration its wear. It has to be worn and still so, in a symbolic written for the Chinese culture and to the people who way for China‟s rise in fashion capitals and sense. helped me so patiently throughout China with the interviews. Kind regards, a pleasure and it has been II. METHODOLOGY an honor! This paper was one which began two years prior. These ideas below began when I was a freelance- III. HISTORY OF THE CHEONGSAM journalist for the Beijing/Shanghai Global Times By the period of the Qing Dynasty (清朝, 1644 - (2015 to 2018) and the concepts continued to involve 1911), the Manchu (滿族) females wore a version of when I wrote for the Future Handling (2016 - Present) the Cheongsam (長衫), called Changpao or long website in Hong Kong. gown/dress (长袍 ).[7] It evolved into a one-piece Where did it all start for me? Everything has a female outfit from the Manchu period until it reached beginning. This need or want to learn more about the the streets of Hong Kong. Buttoned on the right side Chinese-traditional dress. It could have started when and in a netted styled for elegance. It was unique for I was a little boy, back in Brooklyn, New York the females of the court and it was yet ready to (U.S.A.). Seeing the enigmatic Bruce Lee movies, evolve into what it is today; the figure-hugging we where the lovely-females wore this famous dress, see throughout China and the rest of the world where sadly and stereotypical of „The World of Suzie Wong’ Chinese ex-patriots reside. character (1961 movie) or possibly on the streets of When the 20th Century came around with all the Chinatown; when my family would take me on the revolutionary conflict growing in China, for the weekends to lower Manhattan to savor the sweet & Cantonese-Chinese it become a long-shirt. The term sour dishes throughout Canal Street, New York City. as we know it today, the cheongsam, calling it the But to be perfectly honest, it wasn‟t till 2017, 春丽 when I started writing about the topic for Future chun-li version ( ) or to focus on the contour of Handling in Hong Kong. After, I focused this piece the female‟s waistline.[8] For females it become on the Jin Bo store, in Chengdu.[5] I was later shorter. Who signified the style of the time? The awestruck when I saw one of my editors (Stella) from person in the political arena to expose this issue was the Shanghai Global Times Metro [beautifully, I the beautiful and sexy, Soong Mei-ling (宋美齡).[9] might add] wear one. It was then, I was further A woman whom like her Western counterpart, Bette inspired to write an article for the newspaper and Davis would enter a gala event: hypnotize every man after that, I wrote a couple more opinionated essays with their jaw dropping stares and be the envy to on the style which has come to define China and the every woman at the party. By 1911, the dress Chinese female.[6] This accentuation and comparison officially became what we see presently in a longer in the pieces I wrote taught me a lot about this dress. version or called the „qipao‟ (旗 - qi, 袍 - pao)-- flag Furthermore, one writing or an interview experience or banner in a longer robe version.[4]-[10] It began could not teach me everything about this type of with an adjustment to the body. clothing line. Since like China, continues with an With the Shanghai fit, it was a form hugging or elongated history and to be a mystery. That is why, I a Haipai ( 海派) cultural fit.[11] This would decided to write an investigative paper on the matter. accentuate the female anatomy and therefore, adapt to Now, I will be going back and forth between the the western cultural standards at the time. In other usage of the words cheongsam and „qipao‟. Meaning words, it was the mix and match to gracefully make it the following: for the majority of times, cheongsam into a one or two-piece outfit. will be applied for the female-Chinese traditional Beijing, to not fall behind with the fashionista or dress and for the word, „qipao‟, it will apply in the times, the city went with an „A‟ line. Made in red Pinyin-Chinese written form. The latter word is the tapestry and ornamented with decorative flowers, putonghua way of saying cheongsam or at least, form still popular today.
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