Nanollose_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 29-Jan-18 12:47 PM Page 50

www.ecotextile.com Money doesn’t grow on trees

An Australian biotechnology start-up has raised AU$5 million from investors to commercialise a new type of cellulose fibre that it says is ‘plant-free and environmentally friendly’. The company says it raised most of the money at the listing of Nanollose Ltd on the Australian Stock Exchange in October 2017, while pledging to spend most of the funds on its supply chain. Nanollose claims its fibre, which is derived using microbes that convert biomass waste products from beer, wine and food, could be an alternative to lyocell, viscose or other cellulose derived textile fibres. Tom Hinchcliffe reports.

iotechnology firm Nanollose has Nanollose, which has yet to commer - bacteria Gluconacetobacter xylinus produced a cellulose fibre that it cialise the technology, has not yet (formerly known as Acetobacter says is ‘plant-free’, and could be generated any material revenue or profits, xylinum ). Gluconacetobacter is also used Bused by industry an alternative to but essentially aims to provide a fibrous, in the production of many natural cotton and tree pulp which are edible soil-less substrate that can be used balsamic vinegars and kampuchea tea. commonly used in the manufacture of to germinate seeds in the horticulture These fibres are then collected as a conventional cellulose-based textiles. market as a potential alternative to soil very dense, tightly packed non-woven The company says that its ‘microbial and other seed-raising mixtures. material. The solutions used can include, cellulose’ has an ecological advantage but are not limited to, the waste or because it does not require consid - How it works byproducts from the production of beer, erable amounts of agricultural land The developers say the chemical wine and or desiccated coconuts. and/or the associated inputs. By structure of microbial nanocellulose is Fermentation involves inoculating the contrast, microbial cellulose doesn’t similar to plant-based cellulose, but is waste products with Acetobacter need light or land and is instead produced from a sustainable fermen - xylinum and allowing it to grow over ‘grown’ using a fermentation process tation process that uses Nanollose’s several weeks depending on the from a range of industrial organic and Plant-Free cellulose fibres which derive temperature. Optimal growth is agricultural wastes and by-products. from the non-infectious, non-harmful achieved at about 30°C. Fermentation can be conducted in either static or Nanollose fibres can be derived from beer and wine. agitated conditions. Different forms of microbial nanocellulose are produced under these different conditions. Under static conditions the process is regulated by air supply and the yield depends on the concentration of available carbon in the solution. Microbial nanocellulose can be produced in approximately 18 days. This is a potential key advantage over plant-based cellulose, which takes much longer to produce. For example, trees used in the production of plantbased cellulose take many years to grow and cotton generally takes about six months from planting before being ready for harvest.

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CELLULOSE FIBRE

Alcohol Nanollose admits that its early stage require the Kraft processing that trees The company was formed in 2014 after costs are high, but claims it can reverse are subjected to. The company says, Gary Cass worked with designer Donna engineer to meet market demands and another option would be the vertical Franklin to produce a dress made from develop at scale. The company says it is farming of plant-free cellulose fibres. microbial cellulose using the beer currently in talks with potential partners With Gluconacetobacter growing and fermentation process, which was first to facilitate the infrastructure for the producing Plant-Free cellulose fibres showcased at the World Expo in Milan in scaling up project, while Nanollose in liquid vats, Nanollose claims that 2015. While Cass admits that he was not would potentially fund it. these vats can be stacked up on top completely happy with the final texture When asked if the microbial cellulose of each other. of that particular fabric, he believes have any unique performance properties Nanollose has also confirmed that the significant investment into the new compared to traditional plant-based polymers will be used to make staple technology process will perfect it for use rayon or viscose, Nanollose told fibres, as it aims at specific textile end in a range of garments and other end Ecotextile News that “From Nanollose’s uses. These include a focus on six major uses. The company says the fibre has preliminary data, plant-free rayon fibres markets – fashion and furnishings, been developed at a time when major will have some unique performance horticulture, medical, food, hygiene, textile manufacturers are being properties compared to traditional plant- along with paper and packaging. encouraged to move towards ‘greener’ based rayon. Early data is showing some In a statement relating to the processes by retailers and brands. promising results with Nanollose patented Nanollose technology and Chief executive, Nanollose, Alfie determined to produce a plant-free how it is applied at the fermentation Germano said: “What we are doing is rayon that is, at the very least, state, the company said: “Nanollose’s facilitating a need for a change in our compatible if not superior to plant-based intellectual property will range from the industry. Big clothing brands and textile rayon when comparing fibre strength, growing of the plant-free cellulose manufacturers need to have a far better, absorbance, breathability, abrasion fibres using a range of waste streams, more robust and ecologically sustainable resistance, ease of dyeing and comfort.” to the spinning and extrusion stage of story about how they secure products. One of Nanollose’s goals is to process and everything in-between.” As an industry we have realised that we improve the sustainable supply of Moving forward, Nanollose now are taking too much from the earth and cellulose into the rayon market, while plans to engage with several research it has to stop.” millions of tonnes of trees are cut down partners with the intention of dyeing The company says it will bolster the for the production of rayon fibres. trials on the plant-free cellulose fibres strength, durability and washability of Another environmental issue with using later this year. Meanwhile, the the fibre with the money raised, while trees as a cellulose source for the project is still currently at lab-scale, continuing its research into making production of rayon is the Kraft manufacturing at readiness level (MRL) conventional textiles and other products industrial process that removes contam - 3-4, but the company says it aims to more ‘environmentally-friendly’. inates such as hemicellulose and lignin. move on to a MRL 9 in low rate Plant-free cellulose fibres do not contain production in 2018. Working with the industry these contaminants, therefore do not Web: www.nanollose.com I In regard to scaling up the technology and ensuring Nanollose has a reliable source of waste raw material, the What could Nanollose be used for? company told Ecotextile News : I Fashion and furbishing – Plant-free rayon as an eco-friendly alternative to plant-based “Nanollose is currently in discussions rayon and other woven and non-woven materials with several large microbial cellulose (the I Horticulture –An edible soil substitute for seed germination and plant growth major component of Plant-Free cellulose I Medical – Capable of scaffolding animal tissue for regenerative medicine fibres) suppliers throughout South East I Asia and, in the near future, will look Food – A sugar-free, fat-free, gluten-free dietary fibre further afield globally for other locations I Hygiene – With a very high fluid holding capacity, used in the female hygiene and diaper industries that will be suitable for the mass I Paper and packaging – With high purity can be utilised as high-end paper products e.g. production of microbial cellulose.” audio speakers. Also, the ability to convert into a biodegradable plastic e.g. cellophane] The company says it intends to partner with these suppliers to further research and develop alternative growing conditions that will ensure a reliable source of the waste raw material, with these alternative growing conditions and waste raw material including the use of food and liquid waste streams not currently being used for the production of microbial cellulose.

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