GETAWAY: MONTECITO Following the devastating Thomas Fire and mudslides, Montecito has returned to its full glory
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM THOMPSON MAIN LOBBY AREA AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT THE BILTMORE GARDEN AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT THE BILTMORE
Few places embody the Southern California lifestyle more than the seaside community of Montecito. A short drive away from the San Gabriel Valley, nestled between sun-drenched beaches and the Santa Ynez Mountains, Mon- tecito’s Mediterranean climate, chic vibe, luxury accommodations and elegant dining establishments make it the perfect destination for your fall getaway. TOPIARY GARDEN AT GANNA WALSKA LOTUSLAND KOI POND AT GANNA WALSKA LOTUSLAND Despite all it has to offer, Montecito has re- mained largely under the radar as a major tourist destination and usually takes a back seat to adjacent Santa Barbara. The damage from the recent Thomas Fire and mudslides in the area significantly curtailed its ability to ac- commodate even those “in the know.” Happily, however, after months of work and reconstruction, Montecito has recovered and is ready as a prime spot for those seeking a ro- LOTUS FLOWERS BLOOM AT GANNA WALSKA LOTUSLAND BUTTERFLY BEACH CACTUS GARDEN AT GANNA WALSKA LOTUSLAND mantic, relaxing, upscale escape. collapsed amid the Great Depres- Butterfly Beach. From the beginning, including Japanese, Cactus, Water While Montecito may have an illusion of ex- sion. In the coming years, it was re- the modern lines and furnishings were and Topiary—feature rare, exotic clusivity, don’t be deterred. It has a mellow, discovered by the Hollywood crowd in stark contrast to the architecture of and spectacular plants. inviting vibe enhanced by a sunny, natural and soon became “the” place to the hotel. Apparently, Robert Odell, For a glimpse of Montecito as it was setting that has been compared with areas in be seen. During World War II, The Bilt- then-owner, felt unwelcome at some in the 1920s and 1930s, take a look Tuscany, Italy, and the South of France. Gentle more was a redistribution center for of the area’s exclusive clubs and de- at Casa del Herrero. This architec- ocean breezes combined with the protection soldiers returning from overseas. The cided to build his own. His cantan- tural landmark is another example of the surrounding mountains bring mild tem- G.I.’s paid an average of $2.41 a day kerous nature was further displayed of the Spanish Colonial Revival style. peratures and sunny days throughout most of for a room, meals, laundry and top following a disagreement with the Sprawling over 11 acres, Casa del the fall. Hollywood entertainment. Olympic Commissioner when he de- Herrero is known for its grand man- Like Montecito itself, the hotel “has signed the pool to be larger than an or house, meandering Moorish-style Famous Landmark & Fabulous Sights steadily grown in popularity and stat- official Olympic pool, so it could nev- gardens and collection of Spanish Montecito’s most famous landmark is Four ure over the years,” said Karen Earp, er be used for regulated events. art objects that date from the 15th Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara. If general manager of Four Seasons While visiting Montecito, don’t miss and 16th centuries. Montecito is the embodiment of Southern Cali- Resort The Biltmore Santa Barba- the opportunity to visit Ganna Wals- Not to be missed are the local hik- fornia lifestyle, The Biltmore is its crowning jewel. ra. Built on 22 acres of spectacular ka Lotusland, one of the area’s nu- ing trails, which provide abundant According to the Santa Barbara Indepen- beach-front property, the Spanish merous treasures. Set on 37 acres, this scenic views. Also make sure to at a dent, a year before The Biltmore opened its Colonial Revival hotel remains an botanical wonderland is considered minimum stroll along one of the gor- doors in 1927, the area was hit with anoth- architectural jewel and a symbol of by horticulturists to be one of the geous beaches—and if you’re so in- er massive mudslide that roared “like violent timeless luxury. greatest gardens in the world. Once clined take a swim or surf! thunder…as if a heavy freight train were pass- In 1937, the Coral Casino Beach owned by Madame Ganna Walska, ing by.” and Cabana Club (a private-mem- a Polish opera singer and socialite, its Dogs Welcome The Reginald Johnson-designed property bership club open to hotel guests) unique gardens form a living canvas Dogs are welcome in many plac- opened to great fanfare and success, only was built directly across the street that reflect her vision and love for na- es in Montecito and in Santa Barba- to fall on hard times when the stock market from the hotel, overlooking sparkling ture. The many different gardens— ra. Dogs are permitted on-leash at ARBOR AT GANNA WALSKA LOTUSLAND
48 / The Quarterly Magazine / Fall 2018 Fall 2018 / The Quarterly Magazine / 49 Butterfly Beach, Shoreline Park and him or her a bath at the self-serve tours are at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. on Chase Palm Park and can roam dog-washing station in the parking Wednesdays and Saturdays. Adults free at Hendry’s Beach (Arroyo Bur- lot. and children 10 and above: $25. ro Beach), a 15-minute drive up the (http://www.casadelherrero.com) coast. Many hotels accept pets and Ganna Walska Lotusland offer pet-pampering packages. Also, Home to more than 3,000 rare, Santa Barbara Polo & Wine Festival there are several grooming salons exotic, unusual and spectacular This festival combines polo, local and locations in the area that will plants from around the world, it is wine and music at the beautiful San- board your dog for the day or over- the life’s work and legacy of Pol- ta Barbara Polo & Racquet Club on night. ish opera singer Madame Ganna Sept. 8. Artists will include ZZ Ward, Walska. Reservations are required Booker T. Jones, Quinn Deveaux, and IF YOU GO to visit: call (805) 969-9990. Guided the California Honeydrops. General Fall is one of the best times of the tours are at 10 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. admission: $75. (http://www.sbpo- year in Montecito and Santa Barba- Weds. – Sat. until mid-November. loandwine.com) ra. The weather is mild, beaches in- Adults: $48; Ages 3-17: $24. (http:// SEPT. 1 sept. 15 OCT. 6 OCT. 20 viting and the mountain trails open. www.lotusland.org) Santa Barbara Harbor & CINCINNATI fresno state washington Arizona Details of what to do and where to Seafood Festival 4PM 7:30 pm go can be found at: https://sant- Casa del Herrero Enjoy the abundance of the San- abarbaraca.com. Included on the National Regis- ta Barbara Channel on Oct. 13 with ter of Historic Places, Casa del Her- high-quality seafood: fresh-caught THINGS TO DO rero (House of the Blacksmith) is a lobster and sea urchin prepared on Hiking fabulous representation of Spanish the spot and specialty food booths
oct. 26 NOV. 17 nov. 24 Hiking trails offer diverse climate Colonial Revival architecture with for fish tacos, oysters, barbequed al- utah usc Stanford ranges from the beach to mountains a wonderful Moorish-inspired gar- bacore, fresh crab, clam chowder 7:30 pm with plenty of options for terrain and den. Located at 1387 E. Valley Road, and more. 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Admission scenery. Hike up to Inspiration Point Montecito, reservations are required is free for the whole family. (http:// (north of the Santa Barbara Bowl) or to visit: call (805) 565-5653. Guided harborfestival.org/) make the short (but rewarding) climb to see the 80-foot tall waterfall at No- joqui Falls (no joke: its pronounced “No Joke-ie” Falls). The more sea- soned hiker will want to explore the rugged wilderness along the Cold Springs, San Ysidro, Tunnel and Rome- ro Canyon Trails.
Beaches With miles of luxurious, sun- drenched, sandy coastline, the beaches are the place to be in Mon- tecito and Santa Barbara. Wheth- er you are looking for breakers for surfing or gentle ocean waves, the
beaches are spectacular even in the fall. Grab a cocktail at Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara before taking your dog for a long walk along pristine Butterfly UCLABRUINS.COM/TICKETS Beach. Take your time and catch a glorious sunset. Leadbetter Beach (near Santa Barbara Harbor) is great (310) UCLA-WIN for surfing and boogie boarding. At Arroyo Burro Beach (Hendry’s Beach or “the pit” as locals call it) you can let your dog run free and then give
50 / The Quarterly Magazine / Fall 2018 Fall 2018 / The Quarterly Magazine / 51 PLACES TO STAY Simpson House Inn comfortable setting that is right for Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore This 15-room, 5-star bed and break- just about any occasion. Locat- HAPPENING HIGHLAND PARK Santa Barbara fast is only a few minute walk to ed on Coast Village Road in the Set on 22 acres of lush gardens, this downtown Santa Barbara and just a heart of Montecito. (https://www. A Special Edition of Foodie Favorites landmark hotel has 207 guest rooms few miles from Montecito. Accom- luckys-steakhouse.com) Our favorite foodies have been raving about Highland Park and the delectable and diverse fare that can be found and bungalows, including the new- modations in this 1874 Victorian man- there. So, for this issue, we’re focusing on this evolving culinary hotspot located in our backyard. Here are some of the ly-opened Anacapa Suite. With 2,000 sion include period-style rooms and Tydes Restaurant fab spots that those “in the know” have been frequenting and think you should, too! Bon appétit! square feet of space, a private patio suites and a restored carriage house. Even the sweeping oceanfront overlooking Butterfly Beach, fire pit Rates: $250-$700. (http://www.simp- views from a wraparound patio and heated plunge pool, this suite of- sonhouseinn.com) can’t distract from the excellent fers the ultimate in luxury. The hotel is food. Located inside the Coral Casi- pet friendly and even offers a special Camp Canine no Cabana and Beach Club, Tydes in-room dining menu for them. Rooms: With nearly 35 years of experience, serves some of the finest seafood in $595-$1,045. Suites: $1,000-$9,000. Camp Canine really knows how an area known for seafood. Enjoy a (https://www.fourseasons.com/sant- to care for and pamper your dog. cocktail at the Coral Reef Bar, a 28- abarbara) Whether you drop off your dog for a foot aquarium that features a living few hours of play or for an overnight coral reef. (https://www.fourseasons. Montecito Inn stay, it offers top-dog service. Rates: com/santabarbara/dining/restau- Built by silent film stars Charlie Chaplin $30 (half day)-$69 (overnight). Camp rants/tydes) and Fatty Arbuckle in 1928, this boutique Canine will even pick up and deliv- hotel offers luxury accommodations in er your pup. (http://www.campca- Cava Restaurant the heart of Montecito’s Coast Village ninesb.com) Serving a mix of Nuevo Latino and Road. Although it sustained heavy dam- Mediterranean cuisine, Cava has age from the recent mudslides, it is now PLACES TO EAT been a local favorite for food and fully restored and welcoming guests. Lucky’s Steakhouse cocktails since it opened in 1997 on Sorry, no pets allowed. Rates: $150-$800. Enjoy top-notch cocktails and Coast Village Road in Montecito. (http://www.montecitoinn.com) excellent steaks and seafood in a (http://www.cavarestaurant.com) •
Good Girl Dinette 110 N. AVENUE 56 (323) 257-8980; GOODGIRLDINETTE.COM MON. – THURS.: 11 A.M. – 9:30 P.M.; FRI.: 11 A.M. – 10 P.M.; SAT.: 10 A.M. – 10 P.M.; SUN.: 10 A.M. – 9 P.M.
Started in 2009 by chef and owner Diep Tran, Good Girl Dinette serves up fabulous Vietnamese food in a warm and welcoming environment. The starters are delightful—especially the rice cakes with crisp scallion tofu and the imperial rolls stuffed with either shitake mushrooms or chicken. The pho is beyond good, as are the many varieties of banh mi that are served with pickled daikon and carrots as well as an enchanting cilantro-maggi mayo. Make sure to save room for dessert—the maple coconut bread pudding is truly special.
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