Spring 2000 The Trailer Sailors Association

Notes and Announcements 2 Trailer/Sailor s Association Information ...... 2 President s column ...... Wayne Bell 2 Errata from past issues . ... . 3 North Channel Cruise Announcement ... . .John Clement 3 Note on Priority Mail ..David Craigie 4 Treasurer s Report ... David Craigie 4 Flags and Tee Shirts Announcement .. 5 Trailer Sailor Web Discussion Board ...John Coppedge 5 Trailer Sailors Need Help in Florida ...David Craigie How-to Articles 6 Gizmos, Gadgets, and Galley ...ed. Debbie Bell 7 Think Alcohol Stoves are Hazard-Free? ....Ray R. Davidson 7 Cushion Tip ..Bob Brennan 8 Managing Your H2O While Cruising ..David Craigie Cruising Articles 9 Before I Get Old ...... Rita Thomas 10 Cruising with George and George ...Larry McComb 12 The Diagonal Alternative ...Bill Atkins 15 Things to do In, On, and Around Lake Erie ..Alan Reichert 16 Summer 1998 Around Lake Huron (almost)-Part 2 ...Henk Vanderhulst 19 Pacific Coast Cruising Adventure Aboard our Bayfield 25 .Rod & Karen Duncan 20 Three Swans in the Pacific Northwest ....Carol Kulish 25 Lake Superior Cruise 1999 .Jack Johnson 27 Charleston, SC to Savannah, GA via the ICW .Max & Mandy Miller 31 McGregor Bay ..Wayne Bell 34 A Fall Cruise of the Southern Chesapeake . ...Guy Hubbard

33 Classified Ad . 38 Cruise and Gathering Announcements .. 39 Editor s Last Word ... ..Mike Nelson 40 Membership Application ...

The authors of the newsletter disclaim any and all responsibility for any kind of injury or damages sustained which may result from the application of any or all ideas or suggestions appearing in any articles of Clipper Snips. The authors of the newsletter furthermore give no warranty, express or implied, as to the merchantability, fitness for purpose, advertised quality, or any other matter of any products advertised in Clipper Snips or appearing in any articles of said newsletter.

Clipper Snips Page 1 Spring 2000

Trailer/Sailor s Association

President: Wayne Bell, 344 Creek Dr., Slippery Rock, PA 16057, (724) 794-4704, E-mail:[email protected] Membership Treasurer: David Craigie, 101 W. Marshall, Midwest City, OK 73110, (405) 741-2555, E-mail: [email protected] Recording Secretaries: David & Dee Dickmeyer, 2865 Ridge Rd., White Lake, MI 48383, (248) 887-1176 E-mail: [email protected] Clipper Snips Editor: Mike Nelson, 2717 N. River Rd., Yellow Springs, OH 45387, (937) 767-9487, E-mail: [email protected] Cruise Recorder: Don Ziliox, 1340 Elmdale NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49505, (616) 361-8230 Launch Ramp Advisory: John Ulmer, 659 S. Canal St., Box 4101, Canal Fulton, OH 44614 (330) 854-3796 Gizmos, Gadgets, and Galley Column-ed. Debbie Bell, 344 Creek Dr., Slippery Rock, PA 16057 (724) 794-4704 The Association is a non-profit networking organization formed to provide those who sail trailerable boats with a means of exchanging ideas and information. The Association publishes a directory annually, as well as 3 issues a year of Clipper Snips. The Cruise Recorder s purpose is to put people in touch with each other. If you have plans, or want company, or want to know about other cruises, contact him. Clipper Snips accepts personal as from members. All Clipper Snips articles are written by members. NOTE: The editor welcomes articles on any and all aspects of the trailerable sail-boating experience. Deadline for the Summer issue is May 15, 2000.

President s Column Wayne Bell

Dear Trailer Sailor, asked for a lesson. both in the Chesapeake Bay, or the small lake we call our home port When we first started to sail For By the end of the week we were just south of Slippery Rock, has Whom the Bells Toil, a used Sunfish hooked. That summer we acquired been a day filled with awe and ex- that we purchased along side the our own Sunfish and two years later citement. road in Eastern Ohio, we had no we had a Flying Scot. In '86 the idea that sailing would become such Scot was replaced with a Rhodes 22 Sailing, it is what we do. It is who a part of our lives. and in '91 we starting sailing the we are. Let us rejoice in the beauty. current For Whom the Bells Toil, a In the winter of 1978, Debbie and I Fair winds, swing keel, standard rig, Catalina took our first trip to the US Virgin 25. Wayne Bell Islands. We stayed at a small beach resort just east of Charotte Amalie. Each boat has given us new oppor- PS. This summer we picked up Staying at the resort was another tunities. Each day on the boat, be it another Sunfish. Our time on her couple who had spent some time in in the wonderful waters of Canada's was some of the best we had last the shallow cockpit of a Sunfish. A North Channel, or the salty brine of summer!!! Sailing is sailing!! few boats sat on the beach, we the Florida Keys, or the mixture of

Errata From Past Issues Henk Venderhulst has called our attention to the following errors in his articles: Spring 1999: p.19, 2nd column, should read 60 nm, not 6 nm. Fall 1999: p.14, 2nd column, should read enter creek at 120 degrees, not 1200; p. 15,. 1st column, should read a rate of 4.5 million gallons per day, not 4.5 gallons per day; p. 17, 2nd column, near bottom, should read $.50/ft, not 50$ a foot. Henk s sharp eye has inspired us to get a better optical character rec- ognition program which should make fewer of these kinds of errors. Ed.

Clipper Snips Page 2 Spring 2000

Announcement: Georgian Bay: North Channel Cruise 2000. (July 16 to July 28) John Clement Clear fresh water, interesting chan- who like to sail and visit in the The float plan will generally see us nels, thousands of islands, quiet company of a fine and friendly anchoring out for 2 to 3 nights, then anchorages, and a great group of group of fellow sailors. It is proba- heading for the option of shore fa- fellow sailors to enjoy a memorable bly not the best cruise for those who cilities (hot showers, pizza, ice, re- couple of weeks with. If you ve not prefer to party late and loud, or who charge, etc) for a night. yet managed to connect with a like the sound of jet skis. There are If you re beginning to catch the North Channel cruise, these are usually several boats with kids, and dream, some extra things to keep in some of the things you ve been they have a great time exploring on mind during the winter boat shows: missing. land and by dinghy, fishing and swimming, etc. a.. Make sure you can mosquito- The plan this year is once again to proof your cabin. Bugs are not usu- start the cruise near Spanish, On- Navigation in the North Channel is ally a problem during the day, but tario, where there is a good ramp, largely by line of sight, using chart do come out after the sun goes local parking, and a friendly helpful and compass. A GPS is not really down. marina staff. We ll begin on the necessary, but can be nice to have. evening of Sunday July 16th with We have a fairly free and easy tra- b.. Bring LONG lines to take a line the traditional pot-luck dinner on dition with participants leaving and ashore (I carry two strong lines each shore near Spanish, probably at the rejoining as the y prefer. over 100 ft). unnamed bay just NW of Mulock (Sometimes you just need one more c.. Have a good anchor (preferably Is. in the Whalesback Channel. day in that special anchorage, or the two) with some chain, and suffi- Next morning we'll move west up kids need an earlier "ice-cream and cient rode. the Whalesback to Long-point (one video fix" in Little Current). In this d.. While not essential, a dinghy is of "Taranui's" favourite areas) for a case a VHF radio can help you keep very useful for getting around the day or two of relaxing, exploring, in touch with the rest of the group. anchorages. and picking blueberries for a Trailer Although the North Channel can be Sailor blueberry pancake cook-up. tricky, those less experienced at e.. Charts of the area are a MUST. cruising can benefit from the older f.. A VHF radio is very useful, al- The rest of the float plan will take hands who are usually happy to lowing us to keep in touch with us to Little Current, the Benjamins, help new cruisers to learn the ropes. each other and for safety. Heywood, and Killarney for those There is safety in numbers. memorable fish and chips. Let me g.. A depth sounder is very useful. know your favourite anchorage and Its always interesting to visit around This can be a simple fish finder . we ll see what we can do to include other boats during lay-days to see Please contact me with any ques- it. The cruise will conclude with an the ideas other people have come up tions or suggestions, or if you evening shore get-together on Fri- with. Trailer sailors are an ingen- think you may join North Channel day, July 28th, within reasonable ious bunch, and generally love to Cruise 2000. I'll put an update with reach of Spanish. This will allow welcome other sailors on their boat. more details in the next issue. us to haul-out on the morning of the I ve learned many neat tricks and 29th giving the weekend to trailer modifications from visiting other Hope you can join us this summer. home. boats, and in turn am always happy Contact John by e-mail at to welcome visitors aboard Most trailer sailors value serenity Taranui . (This year we plan to try [email protected] , or by on North Channel cruises. This is a baking aboard, so may have fresh snail mail at 51 Hillside Dr., cruise for those who enjoy nature, goodies to go with the French Aurora, Ont. L4G 6E1 fun, and quiet family times, and Press coffee)

Note: Do You Use Priority Mail? If you use US Post Office Priority Mail, this may interest you. I was waiting for my first priority mail package to reach me in Florida. This year it took from Monday of one week until Wednesday of the next week to finally ar- rive. The reason for the delay was that the package weighed over 1 pound, and was deposited in a drop mailbox. Because of heightened security, any priority mail over one pound that is not given directly to a postal employee is diverted and sent by ground. Thus the long delay in receiving my mail. To avoid this delay, be sure to give pack- ages over 1 pound directly to a postal employee. David Craigie

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Treasurer s Report David Craigie

Balance at the beginning of 1999 yes, we had to do something differ- stuffed and posted on the living $5318.00 ent if we plan to stay afloat. Being room floor of Wayne and Debbie Total income for 1999: $6603.91 as printing and postage are the bulk Bell's home. This has proved to be of our expenses it was obvious an enjoyable time for T/S's to get Total $11921.91 where our efforts had to be directed. together. I know because I was Expenditures for 1999: Raising the dues was not even con- there in June for the Summer issue Spring Clipper Snips & Directory: sidered an option. along with Scotty and Pam Covert. $3841.20 This has saved the treasury a good The Clipper Snips had been com- sum of money; somewhere in the Summer Clipper Snips: posed, printed, stuffed in envelopes are of $130 to $170 per issue. $918.27 and posted by a commercial firm Fall Clipper Snips: for a length of time that I am not 4. A savings of over $75 was made $1004.43 sure of. Perhaps a few years. They by purchasing the manila envelopes Misc expenses & fees.: produced a very professional look- at an office supply store. Wayne $310.37 ing product. They did everything and Debbie even stapled the last CS we asked them to do at what one together, saving more money. Total Expenses: $6074.27 would consider a competitive price. Together, these measures have cut Balance in check book 12/31/99 No complaints were ever received the cost of publishing significantly. $5847.64 about their work. But we needed to So, I think that we are on the right do better. We needed to trim our Unpaid bills: track to keeping the Association costs and this was the only area Craigie misc treas expenses: afloat and having a good time too. $353.59) available to us. Some of the cost cutting measures that have been in Our membership has dropped some Total Balance: $5494.05 use for the last two publications are over the last few years. As of year Soon after we published the 1999 as follows: end we had about 400 members. It Spring Clipper Snips and the Direc- is possible that several more will 1. Mike Nelson now performs the tory it was very obvious that we renew, but the flow of mail has composition of the CS by getting it were going to go broke if we did slowed. An effort to recruit new camera-ready for the printer. This not figure out some way to trim our members would help. Perhaps we saves about $300 per issue plus a expenses. It cost over $3800 to all need re read the presidents col- like amount on the directory. print and distribute the spring issue umn in the Fall CS and do as and Directory leaving a balance in 2. Mike will take the camera ready Wayne suggested. Do a little T/S the check book of just $1400. We copy to the printer and have the CS promoting. Carry a membership still had two more issues to publish printed. With the advent of places form on your boat, post a notice at and there was very little anticipated like modern copying centers this your marina, tell a friend about the income during that remaining pe- work can now be performed less T/S's. It will make you feel good riod. I sent an e-mail to all the cur- expensively. and you will be doing your friend a rent officers and a few others about big favor. the situation and it was agreed that 3. The last two issues have been

Flags and Tee Shirts For those who want to have the hottest items for the new Millennium, order your Trailer/Sailor flags and Tee- Shirts early and often. Both sport the "world famous" Trailer/Sailor Association logo and are perfect for any occa- sion. They are Y2K compliant and available nowhere else during these opening months of the millennium. For Tee-shirts, contact: Doris Lockie: 67 Springbrook Drive, Peterborough, Ontario, K9J 1L4. The Tees cost $10 (U.S.). Please let Doris know the sizes you need. For Trailer/Sailor flags, contact: Wayne Bell, 344 Creek Drive, Slippery Rock, PA 16057. Flags are still only $10.00 ($12 U.S. if you live in Canada). Place your orders today and avoid the spring rush!!!!! It is a proven fact that the flags DO make your boat reach incredible speeds. I can only imagine what the shirts do for your body!

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Trailer Sailor Web Discussion Board John Coppedge

TrailerSailor now has a web bulle- trailsail/ and follow the direc- 1. Putting together group sails tin board. The address is http:// tions on the site. A brief over- 2. Regional information boat www.egroups.com/group/trailsail/. view is listed below. After I ramps, cruising grounds, etc. Everyone in the database with an e- approve it, you will get an 3. Selling or buying stuff mail address that works should have email with an ID number that (boating) gotten an e-mail invitation to join. will allow you to set up a pass- 4. Anything else related to trailer word and get access to the sailing The board can keep you up to date board. in three ways: The moderator (me) will attempt to To get access to the board, go to delete time dependent messages 1. It can work as a list server (you http://www.egroups.com/group/ about once a month. I am planning get an e-mail of all postings) trailsail/. It will ask you for an e- to leave informational messages on 2. You can choose to get e-mail mail address and password. If this the board forever. We are already summaries is your first time, you will not have starting to generate a library of in- 3. You can get no e-mails (what I a password. Follow the directions formation I believe the members do), and just check the board the system will send you an e-mail will find useful. when you want to see what is with an ID number that will allow going on. It be would helpful if postings were you to enter a password. It sounds limited to messages to the group at You can join one of two ways: more involved than it is. large. If your message would really 1. Send me an e-mail at je- Once you have access to the board, only be of interest to one or a few [email protected] and I will click on the group info button and people, please e-mail them directly. send you an invitation to join. then the modify subscription but- Remember, e-mail messages to the All you have to do is respond ton to change your method of re- group at large are automatically to the e-mail and you are ceiving information. posted on the bulletin board. Also, joined. By default, this sets replying to an e-mail from the None of this works unless you have you up under option 1 above server without changing the address been invited or your request to join (you get e-mails of all post- sends the message to everyone and has been approved (you must be a ings). posts to the board. T/S A member). 2. Go to the web site http:// Obviously, if anyone has any ideas www.egroups.com/group/ What it is for? on how to better to do this, e-mail Trailer Sailors Need Help in Florida David Craigie

For several years many Trailer/ Many of us still want to come south ervation this year, along with a few Sailors have had the privilege of for the season or at least for a few other T/S s. wintering over at Uncle Henry s weeks, and we all love Uncle Many others tried and failed and Marina on Gasparilla Island on the Henry s. We love the atmosphere, have had to look elsewhere. We west coast of Florida. However, the the security of knowing that we are have been told that we might be possibility of that continuing into in a safe, secure and well main- able to come back next year, but I the future is slim. It seems that the tained marina. The dockmaster, think that is false hope. We need to shortage of quality slips in this area Paul, is a very affable guy and al- find another marina and need the has been greatly diminished. The though he would like to accommo- help of anyone that has had a good facts are that the number of big date us, he is an employee and experience with a marina in south boats in this area is swelling and bound to obey his employers FL to make a suggestion. The re- they have to have a dock space. In wishes that he only accept boats on quirements are simple. addition, some of the older marinas annual lease contracts. That kind of have been sold and converted into squeezes us T/S s out. 1. The west coast is great and it condos. would be nice to stay in this area. I luckily secured a three-month res- (Continued on page 6)

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Trailer Sailors Need Help in Florida-continued

(Continued from page 5) 3. A friendly place in a secure area, If you have any suggestions please 2. Be able to accommodate several off the beaten path and away from e-mail, call or drop me a line T/S s for varying amounts of time. the glitter of the city. (address on p.2). Anywhere from a few days to three 4. Be reasonably priced. months or more.

Gizmos, Gadgets, and Galley ed. Debbie Bell The following hints came to us drinks - chip off as needed. drinks), and the system works quite from John and Susan Coppedge, well. You'll get the best results We have learned (the hard way) not aboard The Muddy Wench. a Mac- with the biggest block of ice you to let any food or cans "touch" this Gregor 26X from Cleveland, Ohio. can fit and the most insulation you ice because we use it as a constant can stuff around your cooler. This past summer we finally devel- source of ice water (the plastic tub- oped a refrigeration system that ing fits neatly between the ice and It's just a little idea, but I thought I'd works for more than just a couple of the container as the ice melts) and share it since several people re- days. The system is a composite of we mix it with powdered Gatorade marked "What a good place for a ideas, partly gleaned from the inter- for instant refreshment on hot after- fly swatter!!" this past summer. net, partly from another sailor we noons. John rigged the tubing to We discovered that the plastic met in Georgian Bay, and partly lead directly to the sink in the head, holder John mounted just inside the from our own trial and error so we can simply pump up ice wa- hatch for our winch handle is also a (mostly with insulation - aerosol ter as desired - a great convenience! VERY convenient place to keep a foam, Styrofoam, duct tape, etc.). This leaves a relatively small mid- fly swatter. It affords easy access The "refrigerator" consists of the dle "refrigerator" section for every- from either above or below, but following elements: thing else. We line the bottom with more importantly, you can FIND it frozen goods (stews frozen in large when you NEED it - which was 1. An insulated cooler margarine containers that "just fit" quite frequently this past summer. (the more insulation the better). our pot, cooked sausage in portion- 2. A large container with The following gadget came to us size food storage bags, steaks or block ice (the bigger the better). from Robert and Meg Brennan chops marinating in heavy duty 3. A smaller container for aboard Lucky Us , a MacGregor 26 reclosable food storage bags, and ice cubes (for canned drinks). from Gig Harbor, WA. anything else we can cook and 4. A length of plastic freeze in advance). Milk, cheese, At the fair, we found a wonderful tubing (with or without a pump). eggs, lunch meats, etc. go on top solution to crouching over the tiller: Essentially, we divided our cooler and stay cold because they are sur- a stadium cushion with vinyl- into 3 sections using 2 different size rounded by ice and/or frozen goods covered foam seat and back rest, Rubbermaid wastebaskets (1 at on 3 sides. John insulated the lid of hinged together. The seat and back each end). John made a bracket out our "refrigerator," too. are held by adjustable straps and fit of wood to hold the largest in place. your bottom and lower back snugly. A note on eggs - "Eggbeaters" The smaller wastebasket was a later Adjusting the straps allow you to freeze very well. However, I am a addition for canned drinks. lean back (even rock!). We gladly purist so I hard boil half our eggs paid $40 each, then later found even The "freezer" section consists of the (storing them in a reclosable food better ones at Target for under 10 largest container that would fit storage bags with the shells re- bucks (Grrrr!). Great for camping, (rounded edge at the top cut off) moved) and crack the other half into too. The darn things are like post- which we fill with water and freeze portion size containers to save its: as soon as you use one, you beforehand. This huge block lasts space rather than coating the shells wonder how you ever got along us about a week, after which we with Vaseline (yuk). without it. "refill" the wastebasket with 2 large We open "the refrigerator" as infre- blocks of ice (chipped down to fit quently as possible (using another as needed). It also supplies ice for small cooler to hold 6 to 8 canned

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Gizmos, Gadgets, and Galley, continued NOTE: We would like to make "Gizmos, Gadgets, and Galley" a permanent feature in Clipper Snips. Do you have any ideas, gadgets, or recipes that you would like to share? Please forward those ideas to Debbie Bell at 344 Creek Drive, Slippery Rock, PA 16057 or email to [email protected]. I will compile the submissions for a future edition. Debbie Think Alcohol Stoves Are Hazard-Free? Ray R. Davidson

Jim and I had just gone around the fires. I realized Jim was right right behind me tied with a short top of Isle Royale from Rock behind me, and the fellow in the line to a stern rail. I grabbed the Harbor to McCargoe Cove, and water was OK for the moment, but bucket and threw it overboard, as were discussing the 20-mile trek the fires were getting larger. I had there was no time to untie or even over a cup of coffee at the dock. It no idea what caused them at the cut the line. The bucket just reached was a pleasant afternoon, and life time. Something on the floor was the water and I filled it a couple of was looking pretty good for the burning, so I stomped it out right times and flooded the fire areas. Jim moment. Suddenly we were away. The corner of a Styrofoam helped the fellow out of the water. interrupted by a very large splash. It cooler was starting to blaze and the It was all over in a minute. We then sounded like somebody may have rear vinyl enclosure cover had returned to our coffee. About two fallen in, and may be in need of flame eating a hole through it and cups and forty-five minutes later the help. already was dripping fireballs owner came over to say thanks, and somewhere down below deck. I explained what had happened. The Isle Royale is located in the started beating the Styrofoam fire story; his wife and two kids were up northwestern section of Lake out with bare hands, and yelling for front in the boat, and she was Superior about 15 nm across from someone to get a bucket of water. I starting dinner. She asked her the entrance to Thunder Bay, finally got the cooler fire out even husband to fill the fuel canister. He Ontario. Jim Kampmann is an avid though hot styrofoam was sticking started to fill it on the rear deck and hiker/runner outdoorsman buddy of to my hands, but how come I felt heat go up his arm (alcohol mine whom I invited along for the wasn t getting any help with the flames are near invisible). He told first half of my four-week cruise. water bucket? It was later that I was me he threw the alcohol one way Jim is a non-sailor, and didn t told no one realized I was putting and the canister the other direction, appear too concerned by the splash, out fires, and they couldn t and then jumped overboard. He but I said, "we better have a look", understand why I wanted a bucket didn t know his boat was on fire. and we both jumped up to see what of water to get a guy out of the was going on. I have rejected the idea of using water. propane for our type of cruising Across the dock and further back because of the possibility of was a 28ft power cruiser tied up Anyway I was starting to get suffocation and explosion believing with a man treading water off the excited because I needed water to that alcohol was nearly hazard free. stern. I jumped down into the open drown out the fire below deck, and Of course we have always realized rear deck to give him a hand when I I needed it quick. Luckily for the immediately notice three small owner I noticed an empty bucket (Continued on page 8)

Tip: At the fair, we found a wonderful solution to crouching over the tiller: a stadium cushion with vinyl-covered foam seat and back rest, hinged together. The seat and back are held by adjustable straps and fit your bottom and lower back snugly. Adjusting the straps allow you to lean back (even rock!). We gladly paid $40 each, then later found even better ones at Target for under 10 bucks (Grrrr!). Great for camping, too. The darn things are like post- its: as soon as you use one, you wonder how you ever got along without it. Bob Brennan

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Managing Your H2O While Cruising that refilling the canisters require David Craigie extra caution, but now we are on Whighhe nalert you whenever are cruis weing ,add ho wfuel m utoc h thing we gladly give up for the quality lake water we use on-board far ecanister.sh wate r is enough? Recently I privilege of cruising and anchoring water for rinsing. Put about two read an article on a web site posted out. In order to avoid offending our quarts in a bucket and use a cup to by the owner of a boat like mine, a spouse, fellow sailors and ourselves pour it over the dishes. This will Hunter 26. His question was, we have learned to deal with bath- rinse the dishes from a good size "where do other owners carry extra ing alternatives. In fresh or salt wa- evening meal. If you must use your water containers?" He had four, ter and even water that appears on-board water for rinsing try to put five-gallon collapsible tanks and somewhat distasteful, a good bath off doing the dishes until after the wanted to carry more. I have three and shampoo are available off of evening meal and use only one containers totaling fifteen gallons the stern. In salt water use sham- batch of rinse water. There's a good and the two of us have been quite poo all over as regular soap refuses excuse for not doing the dishes. comfortable for over a week in salt to lather up. A small amount of General Cleanup water. On fresh water it could be fresh water sprayed through a sun enough for two weeks or more. I shower bag will wash away most of In fresh water usually whatever is have never been away from a water the salt. Using baby powder helps floating your boat will do. In salt supply that long to find out. It oc- avoid getting skin sores from the water try recycling your dish rinse curred to me that maybe this sailor salt moisture. A warm shower can water. The ice melt from the cooler did not know how to manage his be had at our evening anchorage if I is good too. A thorough cleanup on- board water supply when cruis- remember to fill the sun shower in can be done at dockside. ing. As the owner of a trailerable the morning. Instant warm water boat one of my main concerns is can be caught in a bucket from the Porta Potty weight. When do you stop bringing outboard cooling stream. In be- If properly managed one filling things onto the boat and lowering tween showers try a refreshing should last well over a week. In the water line? Realistically, none sponge bath. It's amazing how any case I would never use my on- of us really intends to sail our trail- good you can feel with just a couple board potable water for this pur- erable boat to Hawaii or England or of cups of water. I start at the top pose. any other distant port. As such we and wash down. For brushing your do not need to provision for ex- teeth pump a little water into a cup. Washing Clothes tended periods. Two weeks is a Clean the brush and swish your Only at dockside would we use realistic time frame, and that may mouth and dump it out. I have been potable water for washing clothes. be too long. If one does plan an told that salt water is excellent for Most lakes that we sail on have a extended cruise away from civiliza- brushing teeth too, although I have high enough water quality that this tion then provision accordingly. never done that. I am told that you is not a problem. We usually wash Unlike food and other staples water don't even need to use toothpaste. yesterdays clothes today and dry is usually available in even the most Gargling with salt water is also them on the life lines. This solves remote of areas. To a certain de- good for you. the problem of what to do with a gree it is available all around you. Washing Dishes large bag of dirty clothes and it One simply needs to learn to take keeps you out of the Laundromat. advantage of it and use it to supple- On our boat, "Incipient," we use When on occasion we do choose to ment your on board supply. The real dishes and silverware. Conse- spend a day at a marina we would following areas of water consump- quently the dishes must be washed rather be enjoying our time explor- tion and management are arranged and that takes water, lots of it. The ing ashore then sitting in a Laun- in no particular order. The methods water we use largely depends on dromat. In salt water clothes can be of managing our water have been how much we have and when we washed using shampoo. Rinse well learned from other boaters and plan to get more. Generally though in salt water, ring out and rinse through our own trial and error. we use the lake or ocean water to again in a small amount of fresh. wash dishes. Good quality lake Keeping Clean & Smelling Good It's not perfect but they do smell water can be used for rinsing too. better and they are clean. There is of course no substitute for A couple drops of bleach added to a a long hot shower after a day of sun gallon of water will kill any harm- and sailing. But as a T/S it is some- ful bacteria. In salt water or poor (Continued on page 9)

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Managing Your H20 While Cruising continued (Continued from page 8) stuck up and it's healthy for you source and learn to plan ahead bet- too. Write names on drinking ter. These are some of the ways that Cooking and Drinking Water glasses and coffee cups. This cuts Joyce and I manage water on Try to do as much food preparation down on a lot of unnecessary wash- "Incipient." And while we are not at the dock as possible. Lettuce ing and keeps the sink empty. always frugal with our water, it is a should be thoroughly washed, pre- Don't skimp on drinking water. good practice to conserve and not pared and put in baggies ready for Soda, beer, coffee & tea are good waste. I hate as much as anyone to use. Vegetables that are eaten with- but water is more important. If you have to dinghy water containers to out peeling need a good washing are on a very clean lake it may be shore to fill them. Even more I hate and can be either prepared and possible to have unlimited fresh to find we are dangerously low on bagged or put in a clean area. Fresh water. Certain precautions should drinking water and be forced to find fruits that are eaten whole should be be taken before swallowing a big a supply. The bottom line is you do washed, left to dry and stowed gulp though. Number one, try to not need to carry massive amounts properly. We love steamed vegeta- determine from local knowledge if of water on board. Learn to manage bles. They taste great and usually anyone else does it. In many areas the water you have and reduce your the small amount of water required the cottagers draw their water di- dependency on shore facilities. for preparation can be had off the rectly from the lake. If there are Remember that water weighs 8.3 stern. We like canned veggies too any doubts, boil it. A few drops of pounds per gallon. If I were to dou- and they take no water but they do Clorox can be added to a gallon of ble my on board water to 30 gallons take up space and add weight. Try water. Left to stand overnight it is I would be adding another 125 preparing pasta, rice and similar almost tasteless and kills any harm- pounds to my sailing weight. My dishes without the usual rinsing ful bacteria. Finally, use common water line is already too low. after cooking. A teaspoon of olive sense. If it smells or looks unpleas- oil will keep things from getting all ant try to find a potable water

Before I Get Old Rita Thomas

It seems as if all of our adventures motor home and trailer, and go sail- If the rudder touches, we pull it out are conceived the same way these ing the panhandle. and steer by motor. If all else fails, days. Burr will get an idea in his I go overboard and lead her on a We had previously sailed from head or read an article about an leash. Lake Ontario to Fort Lauderdale by interesting place, and call it to my way of the Erie Canal, Hudson We had opted to leave the ICW at attention with we ve got to do this, River, off-shore to Cape May, up Panama City and go out into the Reet. We ve got to do this before I Delaware Bay, and down the Gulf following the shore to Apala- get old. Since Burr is now 85, I Chesapeake and into the ICW; chicola. The day was clear and take that to mean, let s go! across the Okeechobee Canal, and calm with just enough breeze to This particular one began to seem sailed the west coast from Tarpon move us gently along. The Gulf like something we could easily do. Springs to Naples, so there was a had no waves, only gentle swells. Over Thanksgiving dinner at the natural desire. In short, it was a perfect day for home of friends in Bonita Springs, sailing. All well and good. But now we are Florida, we met Kathy and Art, and bouncing back and forth, up and As we approached St. Joseph Bay, I recognized them as fellow sailors. down, worse than trying to ride a had thought that we would go into We were all attention when we bucking bronco out here on a shoal the bay and find a place to anchor learned that they live on the water where no shoal should be today. and spend the night. The afternoon in the Florida Panhandle. We im- was still young, but we aren t, so I mediately put on our best face; Our faith in our Aquarius 23 with like to settle early and relax. How- made ourselves as interesting as her centerboard is that water depth ever, the captain had over-ruled me, possible, and proceeded to wrangle is immaterial. We can go any- It s too nice a day. It s early yet. an invitation to trail our boat to where. If the centerboard touches Tomorrow might not be so nice. It their home in Niceville, leave our ground, we crank it up and sail on. (Continued on page 10)

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Before I Get Old-continued

(Continued from page 9) We have passed the point of no George Islands. By that time it will doesn t matter if it s shallow. We return. To turn back to St. Joe be long after dark and certainly no don t need much water. would be just as far and just as haz- deeper at least until we round the ardous as to continue. lighthouse. If we should miss the The wind has come up rapidly and Government Cut it is several more is beating the sea into a frenzy. The At one point we saw a motor cruiser hours to the other end of St. George water is filled with sand swirling out on the Gulf headed toward us. Island. Needless to say, this is not around in waves of 5 and 6 feet. Either they thought that we were in our first choice. trouble and were planning to help First, we take sails down to see if it or they reasoned that if we a sail- So, we pull closer to shore to get a is better. Then we put them back boat were crossing that shoal they better look as we pas St. Vincent up because it isn t. All of the top could also do so and save many Island. Looking into the pass, it deck work falls to me because I m a miles to St. Joe. Either way they looks about 1000% calmer than few years younger than Burr and a were smarter than us and retreated what we have been enduring, so we bit more agile than his nibs. All quickly. take a chance, head into the pass, Burr s strength and ability are re- and enter into nearly calm water. quired to hold the tiller on course We did not have charts of the Gulf, We hasten to pull into the lee of the and keep the boat from broaching. only the ICW. But we do have a island, doff the sails and throw out Waterway Guide that includes this I m very grateful for the fact that the hook for the night. area. Eventually we check it out to we bought harnesses a few years see where we can cut into St. We are both exhausted, mentally back. I like the security of knowing George sound out of this mael- and physically, and hopefully we that I am tethered fast to Go Go strom. are just a wee bit wiser than we as she bucks and sunfishes. were this morning. The book is not encouraging. It As the sand-filled water swirls says don t even try to go through It is always exhilarating to pass around us and breaks over us, my Indian Pass (between Cape San through danger and emerge un- biggest concern is that a wave will Blas and St. Vincent Island) or scathed. After it is over, I usually plop us down hard enough to hit the West Pass (between St. Vincent and find myself thinking, That was bottom and disable the rudder and St. George Island). We moan and great. I m glad I did it. This time, Burr s is that we will broach and groan about the fact that we are in however, I m saying, No way in capsize. Poor Go Go is trying her for many more hours of this if we hell am I going over that shoal darnest, but she must think we are cannot go through either of these again! We are going back by way crazy to demand so much from her. passes. That will mean going all of the ICW! I know the water depth is little the way around the lighthouse on enough that I could walk if it were the west point of St. George Island still, but no one could stand against and down the Gulf side to the cut the force of these waves. between St. George and Little St. Cruising with George and George Larry McComb Skipper George Dixon and I have Florida, when we were also joined River on Allegro II about 0300 in sailed the coast of the United States by "George". I had personally run the morning so that we could an- from the outer banks of North Caro- into "George" several years ago chor inside the Withlacoochee lina, to the Florida Keys, to Mobile when I was sailing out of sight of River about 70 miles away before it Bay and most of the parts inbe- land about 20 miles south of Pa- got dark. We were a bit nervous and tween. We have had many interest- nama City. This ungrateful fellow fearful threading the very narrow ing and exciting experiences, but rode with me for three hours and channel out of the Anclote River by we've always wanted to do a little then left me an unwanted "offering" the light of a waning moon and then "blue water cruising" out of sight of on my port quarter berth before turning right and sailing just east of land. In May of this year, we at- flying off. But more on that later. the Anclote Keys. However, our tempted to sail from Tarpon superior seamanship and careful George and I departed the Anclote Springs, Florida, over to Carrabelle, (Continued on page 11)

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Cruising with George and George continued (Continued from page 10) winds from the West on a beam electricity, she promptly went in- study of the chart permitted a suc- reach which built to about 15 miles side of her house and appeared with cessful departure and when we an hour. "George" rode up on the a 100 foot drop cord which she cleared the #2 light about 5 miles fore peak of the bow with occa- plugged into an outlet in her Northeast of the tip of Anclote Key sional forays around the boat to see kitchen, and ran it out to our boat so we breathed a sigh of relief. We if he could get inside the cabin but that we could run our electric fans were on a beam reach as the mar- we promptly shooed him away. as a relief from the stifling heat and velous ten-mile an hour winds blew After approximately three hours of the "no see ums". It was about this from the Northeast as we were sail- riding with us it was beginning to time that I noticed several long ing Northwest. We were quickly get dusk and as we were approach- slinky black objects in the gathering out sight of land as the coastline of ing the Withlacoochee River, dusk loping across her yard and she Florida at that latitude is very flat. "George" flew off into the distance explained to us that these were ot- After sailing for several hours in the not to be seen again. Upon closer ters. The Withlacoochee is mostly dark with just the stars and the inspection, his resting place on the wild and beautiful. We wished we moon to provide a little light, we fore peak of the deck revealed that could stay longer. were greatly overjoyed about 0700 he had left the same "reward" there The next morning we departed at when to the East somewhere over that he had left inside my cabin 0500 because we wanted to make Florida a faint pinkness appeared in when I was sailing South of Pa- the 60 nautical mile trip to the Su- the sky announcing the breaking of nama City. It was at that point that wannee River before nightfall. It the dawn. we considered changing his name must have been our sleepy brains from "George" to "Doodoo Bird". The sun rose just as we passed St. that betrayed us because as we left With a little elbow grease and soap Martin's Light which is a flashing the same river which we had arrived and water we were able to rid the day mark #10 located about 15 nau- the night before, we still couldn't fore deck of the evidence of his ride tical miles west of Aripeka, Florida. get out of our minds the "red right with us. The moral of the story is, At St. Martin's we changed our returning" rule and suddenly there "when a long legged white bird" heading slightly from a heading of was a loud Bang! Wham! And the rides with you, make sure he rests 338° to about 350° as we headed boat lurched to an almost immedi- someplace where his "gift" is easily towards our target of the Withla- ate stop, practically throwing us disposed of. coochee River near Port Inglis. overboard. We both looked at each Dusk was falling as we neared the other sheepishly and said, "Oh, me! It was an absolutely gorgeous sail Withlacoochee River. It was with How could we have made this mis- with the winds mostly out of the some foreboding that we entered take?" George's Catalina 250 was East between 10 and 15 miles an the river because the cruising guide resting patiently on its wing keel on hour and seas running about 4 feet, described several rocky ledges if a stony ledge with the strong river until we approached the Cross Flor- one should go on the wrong side of current pushing us further onto this ida Barge Canal at about 1400 the channel markers. Being expert ledge. We desperately scratched our hours. The winds completely died navigators, we knew the rule "red brains to find a way off of the and the sea was a shimmer of glass, right returning", and we dutifully ledge. The thought of the ribbing so we just decided to motor for a kept the red markers on the star- and the humiliation the soon to de- time. board of the boat and did not strike part shrimp boat fleet would heap It was at about this point when any rocky ledges. on us spurred us on to desperate "George", a long legged white sea measures. We rocked the boat back We had some difficulty finding a bird with a long yellow bill joined and forth and ran the motor full place to stay and were in the proc- us for a ride. I had named this fel- blast. Suddenly, for reasons that are ess of possibly anchoring out when low "George" several years ago still unclear to us, the boat swung we were hailed by a small fishing when I was on a previous trip. Be- around 180°, and we were free of vessel who had heard our call for a cause of the present which he left the rocky ledge and back into the slip over the radio and referred us to me, I advised George that we must river. It was still pitch dark so we a lady standing out in her front yard not let this creature inside the cabin. weren't sure whether we had dam- alongside the river. This lady told Along about 1500 hours, a sea aged to boat or not, but frequent us that, yes, we could tie up to her breeze began to develop along the flashlight views of the bilge re- dock for the night for a very mini- coast and we were greeted with mal fee and when we requested (Continued on page 12)

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Cruising with George and George continued

(Continued from page 11) marks. With some searching we denly about five feet deep. After vealed no green water down below eventually found the channel that motor sailing approximately 15 and probably had only scratched the leads to Miller's Marina where we miles up river, we turned around steel wing keel. tied up for the night. and came back so we could tie up to Miller's Marina by sundown. We were awakened towards dawn We motor-sailed out through the NOAA still predicted lumpy seas with rain pouring in the hatches Cross Florida Barge Canal buoy and high winds out on the Gulf of because the weather had suddenly line and then proceeded to the Mexico for the next 2-3 days, and turned ugly. NOAA forecasts high Northwest to clear Seahorse Reef therefore, we decided to abandon winds, scattered thunderstorms, and that's located about 15 nautical the trip as we did not wish to sail a seas in the Gulf of Mexico in the miles Southwest of Cedar Key. At small boat in those conditions 10-foot range. To make matters that point the winds started blowing across many miles of open water. worse, the winds were coming hard from the Southwest on a beam We telephoned our wives who were mostly out of the West - Northwest reach and the seas began piling up waiting patiently in Tarpon Springs which is the direction in which we to 6 to 7 feet as the waves ap- to bring the truck and trailer around wanted to sail to get to Carrabelle proached the rise of Seahorse Reef. so we could retrieve there at so we decided to spend another day I was coming up out of the cabin Miller's Marina ramp. Oh, the joys exploring the lower Suwannee looking to windward and George of being a trailer sailor! was looking leeward when I saw a River. The first mates arrived the follow- monstrous wave approaching from The Suwannee River is one of those ing day with the trailer and with the port quarter, and my face must gorgeous natural undeveloped riv- some difficulty because of power have been one of wonderment be- ers that one must sail before that lines, we managed to get the mast cause George said that the expres- final cruise. There were numerous down and the boat up on the trailer sion on my face made him fearful to extremely large fish that jumped to head back to Georgia. By then, it even look around to see what was several feet out of the water, some was late in the day so we stayed at coming. The 8-foot wave passed of which appeared to be four foot one of the rooms that Miller's Ma- harmlessly under the boat as we long and we were told later that rina had for rent. rocked and rolled in those big green these were sturgeon. The shoreline seas on a beam reach. of the river was framed with tall Normally the month of May is the The sail was fantastic and very ex- cypress trees with Spanish moss time to sail the Florida Big Bend citing until we approached the very hanging almost to the waterline. area but this year it was not to be shallow entrance to the Suwannee The trees were full of osprey and because of the stormy conditions. River with fear and trepidation. eagles and the water contained the George and I are determined to sail Either the GPS signal was degraded sturgeon and several alligators. The "the crossing" across the Big Bend or someone had moved the Sea Day alligators didn't seem to know the area from Tarpon Springs to Carra- Mark because it was several hun- rule that they should give way to a belle and will do so as soon as pos- dred yards from the charted posi- sailboat so we had to turn aside to sible. Grab your sailboat and join tion. We called Miller's Marina and keep from running over them. The us. George is a great skipper and he he graciously gave instructions as to river was about a half mile wide can sit wherever he wants to, but be how to make the river entrance and and for the most part about thirty very careful where you let "George" how far to stay away from the day feet deep, although we did run into ride! a couple of areas where it was sud- The Diagonal Alternative Bill Atkins Quickly approaching was our sec- something of a grander scale? Thus except, as it turned out, the ond winter of contented retirement-- from winters shadow sprang The 'Diagonal' part was conceptual. We and wishing to keep it that way, Diagonal Alternative--or let's drive actually followed the 'edges' to en- creative juices needed to be from Washington State to Florida sure ourselves as much good squeezed. Would we return to San towing our Corsair F24 Mk11 Tri- weather as possible. Diego, Ca. and attempt to recreate maran. I 'thought' easy enough. last winter's pleasures? Or perhaps Well, that's exactly what we did (Continued on page 13)

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(Continued from page 12) begin ours. And now, before the white grasshopper--an unusual Although it's said that some old- Florida sun beings to bleach my sight, to say the least. Therefore, I timers drink it, starting in early No- mind of our adventure, let me also find it slightly strange that more vember, most of us who live in the possibly contribute a few items into people don t make inquiry. There great Northwest merely begin bath- the waters of our T/S pool. are exceptions, of course, usually in ing with WD40. Our instincts tell us the critical moments of raising or Arizona and Florida had the best that those big Northern Fronts are lowering the mast. Generally speak- Interstate highways. Louisiana the out there pumping iron, just waiting ing though, this lack of natural curi- absolutely worst! California's was to bully their way in and splash up osity seems to be a poorly written ok but the 55mph restriction- the place. By mid November it all sign of our times. One of these because we were towing-was bur- became true. We d just become the exceptions occurred in Las Cruces, densome. The Los Angeles freeway bull s eyes for a 200mph jet stream New Mexico. We were road weary system once again managed to pull with a La Nina kick butt attitude. and thus, after settling into our site, our nerves taut with its petroleum sat down at the picnic table and As planned Bess and I quickly load induced terror. And that was on an opened a bottle of wine. No sooner the bicycles on the front of our early Saturday morning when I as- had we offered thanks for a safe Dodge van, hooked the trailer with sumed most drivers would be sleep- days travel when an almost naked boat on to the rear, and in between ing late. man emerging from the camp my lady Bess works her 'magic' by Bess had thoughtfully balanced our shower spots our boat and while packing everything we'll need for gear throughout the boat and thus toweling off began to ask question the next three months. This in- our single-axle Pacific Trailer after question. This was interesting- cluded her Sailrite sewing machine tracked beautifully. Our big mistake although I don t understand why and all the Sunbrella to construct a occurred with the trailer tire pres- Bess kept reaching into her purse 12x14-ft. boat awing. Buffy, our sure. The tire pressure was rated for for dollar bills. 70lb. four-legged crewmember, 50 lbs. But somewhere we came up made sure everything was properly As our driving continues we try to with the idea that less air ( 35 lbs.) stowed including her dog food. Al- make it a point to stop every 150 would produce a better ride. though our goal had been an early miles in order to stretch while con- Wrong! Bad idea! Even though we A.M. departure all those last minute ducting a walk a round inspection were checking the tie downs and 'adjustments' pushed the clock of the tow. Although temporarily hub temperatures every 100 miles hands forward into mid afternoon. masking her beauty, good quality or so we failed to notice the ex- Then as the chain across the drive- duct tape sure does a nice job of treme wear that was occurring. It way was secured we once again protecting the boats surface from all wasn t until the Florida panhandle chorused--"The Great Adventure manner of chafe, such as under the that we finally saw the damage. Continues"! With the frantic pace tie downs. We also run it along the During a side trip to Savannah, Ga. and late start we only managed six forward edge of the pop-up type to spend Thanksgiving day after hours of driving time before weari- hatch to keep out any driving rain. with our daughter Kathryn we re- ness and darkness decided we There haven t been any problems placed the almost new ( 4000 mi.) needed some sleep. An Oregon with sticky residual upon removal-- tires. I was surprised to learn that roadside rest stop at the foothills of that may be due to the good qual- few customers bother to balance the Siskiyou mountain range gave ity or the boat wax . We usually their trailer tires. Considering the sanctuary until morning once again switch drivers at this time as well. amount of weights mine received it bestowed its brightness upon us. was well worth the few extra dol- In re-reading the above it would We escaped over these Oregon/ lars. Although not enough test time appear that our journey was light California Mountains just as the occurred between southern Georgia and airy. It certainly was an excit- snow began to fall and possibly and Florida it appeared our higher ing trip but, just as in life, it was close the passes. pressure and balanced wheels im- filled with dualities. The frustration Many, many "thanks" are extended proved gas mileage. Our over-all of stalled traffic, the adrenaline to Bob Hodgson and all T/S mem- average for the 4000 mile outward rush-flush as an over-wide trailer bers who over the years wrote of trip was 11.3mpg. appears out of nowhere somehow their journeys and so generously missing us while passing on the Our trimaran tows with the hulls passed on their knowledge so that right, the hundreds of bump, bump, folded inward looks like a large we could realistically and safely (Continued on page 14)

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(Continued from page 13) to launch, we take hours. Of course, rental we d look for another house. bump miles on the Louisiana inter- the term fussy comes to mind and Sailing on Charlotte Harbor was state. It took us ten very long days then there are those questions dur- rather good. Of course, there are the to reach Charlotte Harbor on Flor- ing the mast raising. So be it. same sailing variables as found eve- ida s West Coast. We re glad we After just having washed the boat, rywhere: varying depth, wind, and journeyed forth - although it wasn t the dusty rigging and storage area chop. It was during one of our sail- necessarily easy! But, are adven- were disappointing. The double ing excursions that we discovered tures supposed to be? concrete ramp was good, but with Pine Island. Speaking of pines Over the years the name Burnt almost nowhere to hold your boat another form of showers in the Store Marina located on Charlotte while parking the trailer. Our berth N.W. is when I get too close to the Harbor had often been mentioned in was just a short motor away and a shore and manage to flood the T/S Clipper Snips journal. This was pleasant walk back to the van. I had cockpit with pine needles from an a starting point. In late summer we hoped to store the trailer diagonally over hanging branch. With my pro- had given them a call to inquire in the garage but two feet of it just pensity for close shore excursion about rentals. Yes , they had tri- wouldn t fit no matter how hard I and our 12 draft -with dagger board maran slips available, but dogs had Bess push. So for $30 a month up -we began seeing channels and were not allowed to stay in the con- we were able to rent open ground coves, which would have normally dominiums , but the realty division in one of those mini storage com- blended into the mangrove wall did have a house for sale they plexes in Punta Gorda, Fl. This was when Pine Island was seen from would rent that allowed pets. The located about ten miles North down further off shore. This exploration rent for December would be $1,400 a semi rural highway that doubles eventually led us to rent a stilted and would then double for the rest as a high-speed raceway for the house ( no see-ums generally don t of the season. After many other intimidation of out-of-state vehi- fly above six feet) in Bokeelia, rental inquiries - whose responses cles. which is the northern tip of Pine were always a disappointing, No Island. This included a canal moor- The hot sunny weather was balm to pets allowed - we unbalanced our ing and a possible poisonous snake our soggy North -West souls. funds and told Burnt Store Resort coiled in our mailbox. Locals later we d rent the house, but only for Boat lines and tides. Where are the told us that if the orange stripe December. floating docks? It was cold water on came before the black it was poi- a hot belly surprise to learn that at sonous or maybe it was the other Impressionistically speaking, Burnt low tide I would be required to lift way around. In either case we did- Store Resort is like white bread ; 70 lb. Buffy to and fro between our n t have eyes in back of our heads but after too many days of driving boat and dock! Bess was getting and who needs mail anyway! Pine that kind of nourishment can be jealous--and frankly, I wasn t sure I Island presented a strong contrast to comfort food . The golf course, could lift both of them. Procuring a Burnt Store Resort. The moss cov- which wanders through the commu- set of tide tables helped restore my ered funky old Florida verses the nity, and the lawns are all well sense of nautical dignity lost while clear the land, new start concept. manicured. The homes don t allow awkwardly crawling over slimy We enjoyed both. visitors from the insect world; and barnacles to a splintered covered boats on trailers are requested not to Back in Washington State I had pier. The non floating dock surprise park in driveways. Since sailing imagined miles of deserted sandy also helped influence our next hous- was our priority it was an easy re- beaches on which we d all frolic. ing decision. quest to fulfill. The second day The reality of Mangroves growing found us de-road-rigging and Clipper Snips had frequently made into shallow shell lined shores told washing away the travel grime from reference to Uncle Henry s Marina me I had been in another wistful eleven states. It was then an easy as a Trailer Sailor hangout. Our winter state of mind. Those sandy half-mile tow to the launch ramp. plan had been to live-aboard there beaches do exist, but not in Char- Speed . . . we were looking for it during January and February, but lotte Harbor. It s disheartening to just the other day. Unfortunately it between our low freeboard, their discover that when you do locate a seems to have been misplaced non floating docks, intense midday beach - it s off limits to animals. somewhere during the last half cen- heat followed by the evening no This was a major disappointment. tury. The Corsair boat manual states see um attacks we soon decided In San Diego, CA the county has that it should take about 30 minutes that after the present Burnt Store (Continued on page 15)

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(Continued from page 14) removed once a month. Local di- emnly being told. Well, we sailed set aside beach areas for dogs. It s vers, for $25, would don their face into action by gently putting the like kids on a playground. They masks, wetsuits, and with a portable boat onto a shell beach. Then, as if even supply pick-up bags if you ve dockside air supply, quickly scrub we were primitive Indians began misplaced yours. I ve taken photo- the bottom clean. In anticipation of scrapping the hulls with shells graphs of Buffy actually surfing a doing the same while in Florida, I found along the shore. It worked wave into the beach. applied three coats of wax on the rather well, except the shells kept hulls. Within three weeks of warm breaking. We later, returned with The Charlotte Harbor shell beaches salt-water immersion our white hills plastic drywall scrapers, which did come in handy though. I ve had were looking decidedly green/ worked even better. The only nega- reasonable results with waxing my brown. I began to look for divers tive for was when Buffy discovered hull with Starbrights Teflon marine within the yellow pages and on piles of Pelican droppings on this wax - although too slippery for top- bulletin boards - but none were to beach and decided to roll herself in side application it allows fresh be found! Bottom paint, not wax, them. Unfortunately, shampoo did- water growth to be easily brushed Rules. By now the worms and bar- n't 'sweeten-up our little girl. I away. While moored at Chula nacles were finding a home and wonder if the skunk remedy of to- Vista Marina in Southern California tales of ruined gelcoat were sol- mato juice might have worked? last year I had saltwater growth Fun Things to Do In, On, and Around Lake Erie Alan Reichert

East End If strolling along a to engage the British in the Battle of South Bass, more commonly known seven mile white sandy beach Lake Erie in 1812. From Erie it is a as Put-in-Bay. This is where Com- edged with tall trees and waves 27-mile sail north to Long Point, modore Perry defeated the British shimmering with summer sunbeams which is a twenty mile long sandy and a tall tower has been erected to conjures up images of Jamaica or spit which curves into the lake from mark the event. On a clear sunny the Virgin Islands you may have Canada. Marking the east end of summer day the top of the monu- overlooked a bit of paradise in your Long Point is a lighthouse where ment provides a truly magnificent own back yard: Presque Isle at Erie, you can dingy to shore and walk the view of the surrounding islands. In Pa. The bay is considered by many beach before departing for the the bay you can tie to a mooring to be the best harbor on all the mainland. From Long Point it is ball and get to shore via a water Great Lakes. If the lake is rough about 15 miles straight north to Port taxi. The town is quite attractive there is usually good sailing in the Dover, where you will find several with lots of shaded parks and cen- bay, and if not, there are plenty of local yacht clubs eager to accom- tury old houses, plus plenty of neat things to do in and around modate transients. (Be sure to check places to eat and drink. South Bass Eire. About 3/4 of the way out the in with Canadian customs immedi- is best visited during the week to seven mile spit of land which forms ately upon arrival). Port Dover is a avoid the weekend crowd. Several the bay, is the state park marina typical low-key Canadian town full miles east of South Bass is Kelly s which itself is a small bay enclosed of friendly locals. The town has a island with its charming bed-and- within the spit. Here you can either number of good restaurants and its breakfasts and historical glacial rent a slip or anchor out with 3600 own marine museum. grooves. On the north end of the of protection. The inner bay has island is a great place to anchor out West End -At the other end of great holding ground and is usually and swim to shore at the state park Lake Erie is a small archipelago of temporary home to a number of campground. The water can be twenty islands appropriately, if uni- transient yachts from all over Lake crystal clear but the anchorage is maginatively, called the Erie Is- Erie and Canada. The town of Erie exposed from the north. Kelley s is lands, The large islands are a is quite interesting, and is home to also considerably less crowded than unique mix of agricultural, com- the tall ship Niagara and a very in- Put-in-Bay. At the south end of the mercial, and residential establish- teresting naval museum. There you island are slips for transient boaters. ments with tourists literally brought will learn how Commodore Perry in by the boat load during the sum- built his fleet in the bay on his way mer. The most famous island is (Continued on page 16)

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Fun Things to Do In, On, and Around Lake Erie continued

(Continued from page 15) great swim in generally calm water additional scenic beauty. On the North of Kelley s is Pelee Island, on the lee side of the point. south shore near the middle of the which lies entirely in Canadian wa- lake is Cleveland, or New Cleve- And In between - About fifty miles ters. The island is quite large and is land, as the locals like to call it. east of Lemington along the Cana- used extensively for agriculture. At Cleveland, like Lake Erie, has dian coast is another large bay and the north end of the island is Scud- cleaned up its act and has become town called Rondeau which rivals der s Marina where you can tie up the new All American city with its the bay at Erie in size, but is quite for an hour or a week. (Anchoring state-of-the-art baseball, football, laid back and very uncommercial- out for extended periods is not a basketball arenas, the Rock-in-Roll ized. There is a decent size marina good idea given that you have little Hall of Fame, a new science mu- where you can dock for a few days protection from the prevailing west seum, Omni Max theater, great zoo and good holding ground in the bay and northwest winds). Here you and tropical rainforest, world fa- to anchor out. The bay is quite need to check in with Canadian mous symphony and art museum, shallow so watch your depth Customs upon arrival. There are a not to mention great live theater, (especially given the very low water number of good restaurants within ballet, many fine waterfront restau- level in the lake in general). At the walking distance. From Scudder s rants, and the list goes on. While north east corner of the bay is a it is about 15 miles straight north to one cannot safely anchor off-shore small dock and a few slips. Nearby the town of Lemington on the Ca- around Cleveland, there are several is a local park that allows you to nadian mainland. Lemington has a city marinas which cater to tran- explore the marshlands and Bay large beautiful marina with lots of sients. This summer, do not miss Shore. Continuing on another 50 services. Here you can rent a bike Cleveland, a gem on one of the miles along the shore is the friendly and take a 10-mile ride out to the truly great lakes!! Canadian town of Port Stanley, end of Pelee Point. You ride on which has several nice marinas and For more information please call well-kept bike paths through a excellent restaurants. Port Stanley, me at (440) 646-9234 or e-mail me heavily forested provincial park. At as is true of Port Dover, is built at at: [email protected]. the end of the point you can enjoy a the mouth of a river that provides

Summer 1998 Around Lake Huron (almost)-Part 2 Henk Vanderhulst

I was hoping for good winds to sail are to be with me for the next two and motoring is called for. The en- up to Britt but: it does not work out weeks. Wayne Doherty is first to try is a bit tricky but I lead the way that way and it is mostly motoring. arrive with his "Timeless", Next are giving directions by way of VHF. This is very much against my prin- John and Veronika Mc Dougall We all make it into a nice anchor- ciples! Later on I get some good with "Jubilee" and here come Ron age in a secluded cove. We have sailing even though it means tack- and Shirly Seller who have a pas- some fun getting anchors to hold ing. I find a quiet anchorage near senger, my dear wife Sia. They had and allowing for swing-room. Nares Point just up from Pnt au a good trip from Sarnia with their The next morning is Sunday. We Baril Light. (45 deg 34.5' - 80 deg boat "Shirron". Carl and Barbara do some visiting back and forth and 30.3') Schmitt have brought "Carpe do some sightseeing with our din- Diem". They trailered the farthest, When I awake the next morning I ghies. I have left my trusty kayak at all the way from Hillsboro Mis- realize that it is now one month Wright's and use our rubber dinghy. souri. Jim and Donna Alexander since I left Sarnia. I have done We enjoy a trip up Black Creek with "Splash Dance" join us on about 650 NM. I lift the hook at 8 with Jim and Donna. There are sev- Saturday morning; they can only be am. It is a beautiful morning and eral beaver-lodges to be seen but with us for the first week. the sailing today is tops all the way the owners are all in hiding. In the to Byng Inlet going outside. Once That afternoon we are all ready and mean-time another boat has joined again I drop the hook in one of my move out from Wright's Marina our group; "Piper" with Rudy and favorites near Olga Isl. (450 45 along Byng Inlet. Once out of the Dorothy Kerker. Theirs is a Hunter deg' - 80 deg 38.2'). Today and next protected waters of the Inlet we I welcome the group of sailors who become aware of the strong winds (Continued on page 17)

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Summer 1998 Around Lake Huron (almost)-Part 2 continued

(Continued from page 16) take their dinghies up to where the rocky islands to explore. Sia and I 26 which I owned at one time. They rapids are. We reflect on the join Rudy and Dorothy with Wayne are the folks I visited near Parry changes that have taken place here aboard for a long cruise and we Sound. along the French: now there is only re- discover "Rudy's Hole". This is the McIntosh Camp which came a circular hole about three ft across The rocks here are quite flat and we into being many years ago. But at and four ft deep in a smooth rock, even find a table and some benches one time starting about a century which was formed during the last waiting for us. We also bring out ago, there was a thriving settlement ice-age, carved by the circular mo- our charts and do some planning for here with lumber-mills, fish proc- tion of a hard rock under pressure the days ahead. The plan is to go to essing and -shipping as well as of ice and meltwater. There are said the Bustard Islands by way of the ice-shipping to places like Toronto to be more of these in the Canadian outside. However on Monday etc. More than two thousand folks Shield but they are rare and hard to morning the winds are too high for were in residence throughout the find. I searched for this one last this and it would be an uncomfort- year with more seasonal workers in year but failed to find it even able ride, so we are on our way summertime. Other than an occa- though Rudy had shown it to me through the small-craft passage sional old boiler along the shore before. It's a good photo spot since heading north. "Piper" plans to stay there is no evidence of any of this you can get in with just your head put and follow us later. This is left. All the old-growth timber is sticking out .It looks like your head lucky for "Shirron" since Ron has gone, ice is no longer needed since was chopped off and placed on the motor trouble again and this time the introduction of refrigeration and rock. (What? no blood ?) they are unable to follow the group. sad to say, the fish is mostly gone We have a good run under sail up Next morning the folks on "But due to over-fishing in those early the channel and later some motor- Siriusly" along with "Splash days. Won't we ever learn? ing, ending up near Fox Isl. in Bear Dance" and "Piper" leave the group Bay; a bear is actually seen ambling After a campfire ashore and a quiet and head east. I guide the rest of the over the rocks. night at anchor we are ready to go group out of this anchorage into the to the Bustards guided by "Piper". Gun Barrel by way of a very narrow Next morning we make ready to We approach our anchorage from passage (stay in the centre, folks) move on. Wayne is off the hook the east (45 deg 53.9' 80 deg 53.9') and then on to Beaverstone Bay. and motoring around in this fairly and settle in after several of us have The one day we blame E1 Nino for large bay while waiting for the rest some fun finding good holding for high winds and the next for no wind of us to get under way. There aren't their hooks. I manage to get in at all. Also a dark sky and cool. supposed to be any rocks in this bay touch with "Shirron" by VHF and Once in Beaverstone via the newly but he manages to find one and guide them out from Byng Inlet buoyed entry a nice breeze comes parks "Timeless" right on top of it. going outside. While others go din- up just as we reach Muskrat Bay. It takes several of us with mus- ghy exploring, Sia and I head to- cle-power to free his boat. And so Next day we enjoy the beauty of wards "Shirron" and using VHF we we are off motoring through very Collins Inlet. This long narrow inlet make a rendezvous and then head in pretty channels towards the French has very nice scenery and at this together. This provided us with River. At one narrow stretch called time in August there is little traffic, some good sailing. Again we have a Parting Channel, you have to do we have it mostly to ourselves. The pleasant get-together around a some tricky maneuvering to avoid weather is pleasant but no wind so campfire where we are joined by the rocks. This piece is well buoyed we have to motor, but in this nar- other TSA-ers who just happen to but has an S-bend, too small for row passage that is not unusual. We be there: A1 Janusas and Carol boats over 30 ft. We all make it OK arrive in Killarney around noon, Pears from Toronto aboard their and enjoy this pretty ride. When we just in time for a famous fish and Sirius 21 "But Siriusly". The enter the French Main Channel chip lunch. We end up in Covered weather forecast for Thursday is not there is a motorboat with engine Portage Cove after a nice but short good thanks again to E1 Nino; high problems; Wayne throws them a sail. westerly wind and waves. We de- line and tows them into the marina cide to spend the day here in the Next day E1 Nino throws another at McIntosh Camp. Bustards. This area is superb for curve-ball, so we stay put. The fol- We all enjoy this good anchorage in dinghy-rides as there are several lowing morning is very pleasant McDougall Bay and several folks very nice secluded long bays and (Continued on page 18)

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Summer 1998 Around Lake Huron (almost)-Part 2 continued

(Continued from page 17) and I anchor in a corner near Britt. scuba-diving school. And also now after a night of heavy thunder- When we wake up the next morning there are a number of scuba-divers storms. We have a fairly good run we are in heavy fog and all we can in the water. What is this?! Here all the way through Killarney Chan- see is the top of a high tree. By go- comes another one swimming right nel, then outside to the Bad River. ing very slow, we crawl along the by and guess what; it's a full grown We spend a day here walking, din- shore and get back to the dock beaver swimming quite unperturbed ghying and swimming. Later a where we are joined by Ron and past all these people! squall-front with heavy rain comes Shirley for breakfast aboard "Go Later I go to check out Russel Isl. through but leaves in time to give Gently". Then it is time for Sia to but the cove there does not look way to a beautiful evening with leave with them for the trip home. I good to spend the night, so I go on potluck-supper on the rocks. am again on my own. to Cove Island where the bay is After leaving Bad River we first I go back to Olga Isl. where I spend excellent. There are a few other have a light breeze but then it dies. the next two days waiting for favor- boats here and we see a few beavers We pass the "Samuel Risley", one able weather to head for Tobermory swimming around. of Canada's large coastguard ships, which is a long ride in open water. A good nights sleep and I am on my anchored near the Bustards where a On Friday things look good and I way before 7 am. I have about 60 crew is working to restore one of am off at 6.30 am. For most of the NM of open water ahead of me be- the lighthouses here. I call them via day the sailing is good, close reach- fore getting to Port Elgin. At first VHF for a little chat. Sia and I once ing at better than 5 kts.. Around the sailing is OK but then the wind had a private tour of the ship along noon I have to reef down. I pass starts to come too much on the nose with Ron and Shirley, while it was Cabot head and my alternate gunk- and I end up motor-sailing the rest in Sarnia. We enter our gunkhole in hole. After a while I notice a wind- of the way. The water is quite the Bustards for the end of a good shift, more on the nose and the rough, altogether not a pleasant day day. waves are getting bigger. I press on since I can only use my autohelm but sailing is becoming a bit of a Then it is Thursday and time for us for short periods and so it's rather battle. This is frustrating; can I still to head back in the direction of tiresome work. I don't see another make Tobermory which is now in Byng inlet. We go outside and have boat and the coast is mostly out of sight ? No, I have to turn and go for a slow but pleasant sail. We enter sight. A11 I see besides waves is Wingfield Basin, going through the the cove near Olga Isl. where we one lonely Monarch butterfly, one narrow entrance. have our last potluck and fire on a seagull and a small group of Can- tiny island. It is nice to get into this protected ada geese. basin and out of that rough water. A The day for haul-out has arrived. The trip takes me right on twelve few other sailboats are at anchor Wayne is on his way early and soon hours and I'm tired when I finally here and using the kayak I get ac- we all leave for Wright's Marina. get into the harbor and docked. In quainted with a couple who sail a "Timeless" is almost ready for the the night the wind gets up much unique ketch, which was hand-built road when we get there. Soon more and I don't get much sleep out of white oak in Nova Scotia and "Jubilee" and "Carpe Diem" are on from all the banging around.. The was a fishing boat. It was bought by their trailers and we say our good- next morning it is quite stormy and someone who had a deck and cabin byes. Ron and Shirley are going to getting worse. This is no good! I built on and changed the rigging keep us company for a couple more decide to end my adventures here, etc. "Caper" is now a very good days. We go to Britt for some sup- hitch-hike home to Sarnia and next looking boat, and quite fast. plies and then we return to Black day return with my rig to bring "Go Bay after a good jib-sail. I wake up to a beautiful morning Gently" home. and the wind is perfect for a fast On Monday it is time for parting. So I didn't make it all the way sail to Tobermory, the last part un- We have again a good jib-sail back around Lake Huron, but in these der reefed main and jib. I dock in to Wright's where we work on get- eight weeks I have done just on a the Big Tub and walk over to ting "Shirron" ready for the road. thousand NM and have met up with friends who own a cottage next to We intended to have a nice meal many very nice people. All in all it the lighthouse. Right in front of together at The Sawmill Inn in was a successful venture. their place is a section of rocky Byng, but find it too pricy, so we shore. This is often used as a have a good meal at St Amants. Sia

Clipper Snips Page 18 Spring 2000

Pacific Coast Cruising Adventures Aboard Our Bayfield 25 Rod and Karen Duncan

We were instantly attracted to her spare), that swings down into place north of Vancouver BC, so to make when we first laid eyes on the dis- to make possible the launching and the trip to Desolation Sound tinctive green hull and cutter design retrieving from uneven ramps. quickly, we put the boat on the of the Bayfield 25 JANA DEE. She trailer in Anacortes and set off for After a bit of cleanup and overcom- had been sitting in a barn for 5 Vancouver Island aboard a Wash- ing the usual problems associated years on a farm on Lopez Island, in ington State ferry. We put in at the with a diesel engine and boat that the San Juan Islands of northwest town of Campbell River, on Van- have sat for a long time, the boat Washington State, but the years of couver Island, and headed out to was put to its first test in the waters dust and bird droppings could not some of the most spectacular cruis- of the San Juan Islands, and Cana- hide the functional beauty of this ing grounds on the North American dian Gulf Islands. She handled per- trailerable bluewater cruising sloop. continent (some say more so than fectly in all points of sail, thanks to the Norwegian fiords). The area is The Bayfield 25 was the smallest of a redesigned and rebuilt rudder, largely undeveloped and sparsely the several models of sloops built done by the original owner on the populated, and offers unsurpassed near Toronto at the Bayfield Boat advice of a naval architect, in order cruising. In this area, one must Yard. It was designed along the to eliminate the extreme weather know how to read the charts and lines of the better known (at least helm that was common to this hull plan their daily itinerary according on the west coast) Pacific Seacraft design. Downwind sailing was im- to the tidal current tables, since or Flicka, but with more interior proved by the large colorful cruis- tides can range up to 15 feet and cabin space and 6 ft headroom. She ing spinnaker. She was quite a sight currents up to 10 knots in the nar- has a full 1300 lb keel, 3500 lb dis- under full sail and green hull and row, deep fiords. There is nothing placement, 3 ft draft, 8 ft beam, deckhouse canvas. This boat never to compare to shear exhilaration of inboard Yanmar diesel. Four hun- fails to draw attention and admiring cruising along at 6 knots on a spin- dred Bayfield 25 s were built, and comments from passing boaters. naker broad reach; while having an are still popular around the great The extensive protected waters of additional 6 knot boost from the lakes and northeast coast. the San Juan and Gulf Islands are current; while Orca whales breach The previous owner of this boat had some of the most interesting and and swim alongside for hours at a been the chief maintenance me- rewarding for the pocket cruiser. time; while waterfalls plunge over chanic for a fleet of charter boats, The waters that are within the bor- the sheer surrounding cliffs, and and it was quickly apparent as I ders of Washington state alone har- mountains reach to 6000 feet eleva- surveyed the boat in the barn that bor hundreds of islands and pro- tion alongside waters that are 1000 first day that he had put his boat tected anchorages, including some ft in depth. engineering talent to work; this was 38 state marine parks, some of the A job change took us and JANA no ordinary vessel. The boat had best fishing and scuba diving, im- DEE south to central California and been extensively upgraded and out- pressive vistas and abundance of the Bay Area. We settled down in fitted for liveaboard coastal and sealife and birds. These waters had Santa Cruz, a coastal town on the offshore cruising. All instruments, been our home cruising grounds for edge of the Monterey Bay Marine running gear and standing rig had ten years prior to the purchase of Sanctuary. The boat was launched been upgraded to offshore stan- the Bayfield. From the San Juans, it at the Santa Cruz harbor ramp, and dards; rollerfurling and autohelm is possible to cruise some two thou- kept on a mooring at the Capitola installed; a full galley and other sand miles north to southeast Alas- pier during the summer months for liveaboard conveniences had kan along the inside passage several years. We went for cruises been provided; the electric and without having to transverse more up and down this beautiful section lighting system improved; fuel and than about 50 miles of open water. of the California coast; outfitted her water capacity increased; and the One of the most outstanding cruis- with a trolling rig (which led to interior had been redesigned and ing grounds along the inside pas- some great offshore salmon and custom fitted entirely in teak. The sage is an area in Canadian waters tuna fishing under sail), and partici- trailer had been modified with called Desolation Sound . This pated in the summer evening beer- stronger and larger wheels and was to be the destination of the can races on Monterey Bay. brakes, a long tongue extension, Jana Dee for our first extended and a fifth wheel (which is the cruise. This area is about 200 miles (Continued on page 20)

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Pacific Coast Cruising Adventures Aboard Our Bayfield 25 continued

(Continued from page 19) desert mountains as a cruising back- was our visit to Emerald Bay, Sometimes a work assignment took drop, quite a change from our Pa- which lies within a glacial cirque of us to Berkeley, and we would trailer cific Northwest and California sheer cliffs and waterfalls at the the boat up to the Berkeley Marina coastal cruising. The waters of the southwest end of the lake. and become a liveaboard on San Sea of Cortez are some of the most Alas, another career change took us Francisco Bay for several weeks at biologically diverse and prolific in from the west coast inland to Ft. a time. The after-work and weekend the world, with excellent cruising Worth, Texas, and our JANA DEE sailing were always white and diving. One must read the followed us reluctantly. We are knuckle , with afternoon summer charts with a skeptical eye, and be presently residing on Eagle Moun- winds averaging 25 knots through prepared for some high winds and tain Lake, in Ft. Worth, where we the Golden Gate bridge. currents, for which by now we were have taken up racing J boats at the well prepared by our previous cruis- Of course one of the advantages of Ft. Worth Boat Club. We took the ing experiences. There are many a trailerable cruiser is the extremes boat down to southwest Florida this protected anchorages along the in cruising that can be had just a car past winter for several weeks of coast and offshore islands, and defi- trip away. This is especially advan- cruising in the waters of Pine Island nitely some of the most remote tageous on the west coast, where Sound and Charlotte Harbor, and cruising one will ever encounter in safe harbors are often several days saw the new millenium arrive this continent. Basic supplies and sail apart, and one must outfit for aboard JANA DEE at Cabbage food can be had from small coastal some serious offshore passage- Key. Although this was warm villages, and of course there is al- making in order to reach new and weather (and water) cruising at its ways the fish diet , which is easy different cruising grounds. Which finest (mostly without wind), alas to come by in the Sea of Cortez. brings us to our next cruising desti- we came to the somewhat reluctant nation, the Sea of Cortez, off the Next on our cruising itinerary was decision that this would be our last coast of Mexico s Baja Peninsula. an inland sea , the spectacular extended cruise on the Jana Dee . This is a somewhat remote cruising waters of Lake Tahoe, at 6000 ft. We have decided to sell our Bay- ground, and reaching it involved elevation in the Sierra mountains of field and buy a J80 go fast boat trailering our Bayfield 1000 miles California. This again posed some which is more suitable for our land- south, including 500 miles over challenging trailering over a 7000 locked location in central Texas. single lane desert mountain roads. ft. mountain pass, again with no We will be glad to answer questions This was the ultimate challenge for mishaps, a testament to the trailer- about cruising any of the west coast the trailerable boat and crew, but ability of this boat and trailer. We areas included in this article, for fortunately all went well and we did some day-sailing based out of those of you who want to extend launched at a ramp in the small one of the many condominium your horizons westward. fishing village of Bahia de Los An- complexes that dot the southern geles. This area offers spectacular shores of the lake. Most spectacular

Three Swans in the Pacific Northwest Carol Kulish

Bill had promised me for years that (See Map on P. 24) simple sloop rig with a 110 roller we would celebrate the milestone of furling jib. It took us a few minutes DAY ONE We picked up PUFFIN my passing the half century mark to follow the lines and figure out in Anacortes, Washington on Satur- by going sailing in the San Juans. the location of the head shackle for day, September 11th, 1999. She Finally the time had come. When the main halyard, but Bill soon had looked just like the slick sales bro- we sold STRIDER in Florida in the the rail buried on a starboard tack in chures, even though she was 10 spring of 1999, we decided to char- 15 knots of wind. The wind disap- years old. It took us a few hours to ter a Dana 24 by Pacific Seacraft to peared as we turned north up Bel- load our gear, do a final grocery see if it might be our next craft. The lingham Channel and we had to shopping and check out. Dana is a Bill Crealock design and turn the motor on. although a salty pocket cruiser, she The sail plan on PUFFIN was a is trailerable. (Continued on page 21)

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Three Swans in the Pacific Northwest continued

(Continued from page 20) the jib to motor sail in. SUNDAG- bought two more for us at the local DAY TWO It was a calm night. GER was gutsier and sailed through fuel dock. That was more than our The next morning, we took a long the reefs and quite far into the bay tank could hold. We obviously had hike ashore, but somehow missed with their 6' board down. Later they not run out of fuel. the trail to Eagles Point that Craig told us that they didn't realize the We went out to anchor in about 33 had suggested. It was a beautiful reef stretched out as far as it did. feet of water, a short distance away and quite pleasant with lots of ferns It was a beautiful sunny day and the at Beaumont Marine Park. and madrona trees. We then headed anchorage was filling up. Sucia SUNDAGGER and MAIORA back down to Anacortes to rendez- Island is a lovely marine park ac- rafted up for the night. We dinked vous with John and Anne Burrows. cessible only by water. We took a over for sundowners and to thank We had brought along our own very nice hike ashore before return- them for all their help. They had whisker pole and had just managed ing to PUFFIN. made a bad day much more bear- to jury rig a carabiner to a cleat on able. the mast as an attachment place, DAY FOUR It was another calm when the wind shifted 180° and was night. Bill and I were having a hard DAY FIVE We were off early in on our nose. It was time to turn the time getting used to sleeping on a the morning to take advantage of motor on. level boat each night after all the the current. After running the en- rock and rolly nights in the Baha- gine about a 2 hour, the engine died There was no wind and it was mas. Vancouver Island protects and we were a sailboat again. Fortu- sunny and flat calm as we headed these waters from the Pacific ocean nately there was more wind than the north up Rosario Channel towards swell. day before and it filled in as the day Doe Bay on Orcas Island. When a progressed. It was wonderful and bit of wind arose, we did one good North of Waldron Island, the wind reassuring to look around and see tack before literally stalling. We died and the current swept us be- our two buddy boats sailing along began motor sailing and looked tween two small islands. We were with us. back to see SUNDAGGER stall completely out of control due to exactly where we had. MAIORA engine problems, and we did three After a long tack in a westerly di- motored up and had already devel- 360°'s. We were not sure where the rection and a visit by dall porpoises, oped a possible alternator problem. current would take us and were we were able to hold wing on wing. At Doe Bay, we anchored in 33' of extremely glad to accept a tow line As we approached Ganges Harbor water and then met with MAIORA from MIAORA. on Salt Spring Island three abreast, to discuss strategy for our two week we were advised by harbor control Our current fun was not over yet, as cruise. that we had passed into a 5 knot we were entering the Canadian Gulf speed zone. The wing on wing must DAY THREE It was a flat calm Islands and had to tie up to the dock have looked pretty menacing from night again. We were up early to to clear customs at Bedwell Harbor their viewpoint. follow SUNDAGGER out under on South Pender Island. MIAORA motor. We saw them raise their dropped our tow line off. Bill We had dinner that evening at sails after Lawrence Point. There grabbed PUFFIN's bow line from Moby's at the head of the marina was a nice 10 knot wind, but unfor- the dinghy and did a superb job of dock. It came highly recommended tunately it was right on our nose. bringing us very gently into the by Craig and Sheron for their fish After a couple of tacks (one acci- dock despite the breeze that had and chips. We were able to pull two dentally), we went between the come from nowhere. tables together so all eight of us Clarkia Islands and out into the would fit. deeper open water of the Georgia I went to check in and Bill began Strait for a very long starboard tack. fiddling with the fuel line again. DAY SIX Next morning was foggy. The boat held. a very nice line. After several phone calls, I finally It felt like the northwest at last. PUFFIN weighs 8000 lbs. and 3200 connected with the charter company Showers were a loony (1 Canadian lbs. of that is ballast in a 3'8" cut- and was told how to bleed the fuel dollar). Unfortunately, it cost me a away full keel. system. By the time I got back to second loony to wash the rinse out the boat, Bill had already figured of my hair. Our port tack took us back to Echo that out and had the engine running. In the late morning, we walked Bay on Sucia Island. We were nerv- SUNDAGGER had showed up with through the town of Ganges and ous about the entrance and rolled up two gallons of diesel and they also (Continued on page 22)

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Three Swans in the Pacific Northwest continued

(Continued from page 21) again. one was game. onto Mouat Park to play folf Before sailing, we took a short walk As we left, we went through a Sun- (frisbee golf). Folf follows the some ashore to warm up as it was chilly day sailboat race with spinnakers rules as golf and the holes were 4' and damp. Once under way, we lost out. Of course, that meant that the by 36' pipes hanging from the trees track of where we were and ended wind was on our nose. After a cou- that had to be hit by the frisbee. It up in a bed of kelp in 20 feet of ple of miles of motoring, we set our was a lovely site, with the maples water as we set our whisker pole. sails to begin tacking north. There just beginning to show their fall That's a real "no-no" as kelp gathers was 8 to 12 knots of wind and we colors. on shallow reefs. We were lucky found that we were able to sail 45° DAY SEVEN In the morning it was and made it safely through. to 50° off the wind. It took us 5.5 a bit brisk out with the sun behind hours to get to our destination, but Once both boats had flapping sails, the clouds. But 9 miles and 3 hours it was a nice sunny day and we did- we invited SUNDAGGER to raft later, after sailing mostly wing on n't mind. Annette Inlet was a de- up. They had not been aboard PUF- wing to Royal Cove on Portland lightful spot.. FIN and we gave them the grand Island, the sun was out and the tour, all 24' by 8'7" of her. But DAY TEN The next morning was wind had dropped. We timed that lunch together wasn't to be, as a calm and I just couldn't resist any one nicely. It was a stern to anchor- boat wake sent us scurrying to save longer. PUFFIN had nice folding ing affair with cleats attached to the the spreaders from damaging each steps all the way to the top of her rocky wall. Bill helped MIAORA other. It was only about a mile fur- mast. Up I went with the camera to into the space next to us, using the ther to Sydney Spit, our destination. take pictures from aloft. Of course, dinghy to take their stern line to We crossed over the spit in no less I was all the way up before I real- shore. than 10 feet of water and anchored ized I wasn't clipped into anything. I decided to go out and check our in about 20 feet. I did get some nice shots of our bow anchor, because we were nerv- friends boats from my lofty perch Bill used our dinghy to drop ous about how far out in the cove of 37'. Sheron, Craig and me on the sandy we had dropped it. That is my fa- arm of the spit and we walked the We had only 5 days left of our vorite sailing job in warmer waters. beach barefoot amongst all the lo- cruise and none of us were anxious But here I donned my entire wet cals over from the town of Sydney to leave Canada. We decided to suit garb, which protected every- having barbecues and just enjoying head back to Beaumont Marine thing but my hands and head, be- the lovely Saturday weather. It was Park to do the hike up Mt. Moran fore I got into the 52° water. I didn't so warm, I was in my swimsuit and that had been stolen from us the day tarry long and couldn't see much, shorts. that PUFFIN had to be towed into least of all our anchor in 20' of wa- customs. It was about 10 miles ter. The swaying kelp was weird to Bill took the dinghy to the other away. swim between and the purple sea side of the spit and about halfways stars were the high point. through our walk, he met up with We started out wing on wing in us. When we got back to the an- about 8 knots of wind. The wind After lunch, we circumnavigated chorage, MIAORA had anchored shifted to our beam, than another the island, which is the Princess near us. They had made a stop in 45° and then there was a lull. The Margaret Marine Park, by foot with Sydney to spend the last of their shifting and variable winds in these Sheron and Craig. It had lovely Canadian dollars. We all gathered waters made us feel like we were little bays and beaches and scenic aboard MIAORA and a resident lake sailing. views of the other islands. We for- harbor seal entertained us by blow- aged for apples in the old orchards MIAORA spent the night at the ing bubbles. and picked blackberries beside the dock charging their batteries. We trail. DAY NINE About 35 boats over- went back out and stayed on the nighted in the anchorage and it was mooring ($6.00). No one came to DAY EIGHT At daybreak and low a beautiful but humid morning. I collect the fees at either location tide, I could almost step off the dinked around our little group to because of the late season. stern onto the rocks, but we didn't see if they would mind backtrack- bump. We could have had a crab for DAY ELEVEN At 1:OOam there ing 15 miles to her location at An- breakfast, if I had been ambitious was a foreign sound, wind in the nette Inlet on Prevost Island. Every- and wanted to don that wet suit (Continued on page 23)

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Three Swans in the Pacific Northwest continued

(Continued from page 22) were able to set our sails in light About 9:OO am we ghosted out of rigging. There was no slapping of wind. After tacking by the same the harbor with the current. Finally wires in the mast. We thanked Bill green buoy twice, we cranked up there was enough wind to add the Crealock and fell quickly back to the motor and headed for Upright jib. But once we rolled around the sleep. In the morning, we finally Channel. We were at a max ebb tide point, it was a brand new game. The got to go hiking in the park. of 3.5 knots, which was about all fog rolled in and the wind increased we could do under sail. Our respect up to 15 to 17 knots and we were on Shortly before 11:OO am, John had for the currents dictating movement a beat. It started to drizzle and soon had his boat checked by the local grew. we had on all our foul weather gear. mechanic and there was just enough We were finally really doing some wind to sail out of the harbor. Once We took a mooring at Odlin Park challenging sailing and it was ex- out, it turned right on our nose. We on Lopez Island and had lunch. We hilarating:. John called back from motor sailed up to MAIORA and then went ashore for a hike and the other side of Thatcher Pass to suggested motoring down to Friday found wild blackberries along the tell us the wind was piping up to 20 Harbor on San Juan Island . We had road to munch. Isle donated her knots in Rosario Strait. We rolled in U.S. customs to clear and MIAORA jacket as a container in which to our jib some and SUNDAGGER was supposed to be looked at by carry some back to the boat. Later, reefed their main and switched to a another mechanic. SUNDAGGER for more protection, we moved smaller jib. We scored a great foul didn't feel pressured and they stayed around to Shoal Bay for the night. weather picture of SUNDAGGER behind to tack down. DAY THIRTEEN September 23rd with a tall ship coming up behind It took just a phone call to clear a lovely sunrise greeted me from them. customs. We decided to take a slip the cockpit on my birthday. First Because of the wind direction, for the night ($.75 a foot). In the the crew on SUNDAGGER and MIAORA had tucked around the berth next to us was a sister ship, then the crew on MIAORA sang corner to the north of Elbow Bay on the Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20', with Happy Birthday to me over the ra- Cypress Island and we joined them. a single handler aboard. We walked dio. We all hoped that channel 9 On our first try to set the anchor, we into town for some fresh groceries was not closely monitored that brought up sea grass and kelp. I was and to get a taste of the local color. morning. grateful for the electric windlass as It is a community of 7000 perma- we were in 35 feet nent residents, that of water. On our grows to 20,000 in the We all gathered on MIAORA that evening for the birthday bash. I second try, which summer and that does was showered with love, thoughtful gifts and this poem by John held, we ended up not include tourists Burrows: close to both like us. An Ode to Your Half- Century S U N D A G G E R DAY TWELVE There and MIAORA in (or "Fifty is Nifty" was fog in the morn- less than 10 feet of ing. At the showers, I Fifty is a lot of fun; but just you wait for fifty-one water. We ate discovered they cost Fifty will be good to you; but the same is true of fifty-two lunch, keeping an $1.25. Since I had no eye on the other money on me, I had to Fifty suits you, as we can see; but let's all see you at fifty-three boats and the hike back to the boat Fifty gives you so much more; but not as much as fifty-four depth finder. For- for change. The ma- Fifty is a time to jive; but not as much as fifty-five tunately the wind rina had over 600 slips Fifty is a time for kicks; but there' ll be more at fifty-six d r o p p e d a n d and it took more than 5 shifted to the minutes to get back to Fifty will be really great; but not so good as fifty-eight south. MIAORA our transient slip. I Fifty will turn out fine; but not as good as fifty-nine weighed their an- almost got lost in the Fifty may seem like heaven; but just you wait until chor first and our three boats almost fog and the maze of you're really cool cats like Anne and John at docks. became a trima- nearly sixty-seven. ran. We all fended When the fog lifted in off and then we the late morning, we

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Three Swans in the Pacific Northwest continued

Continued from page #23 to MIAORA for another round of Then the final question to mull over sad goodbyes. It was over!! As we on our 600 mile drive home was: off and then we took off too and trundled our last load up the dock would we buy a Dana? The biggest headed back to Elbow Bay. There with my birthday wildflowers in determent is price. She is an excep- was still enough daylight for a good hand, we marveled at how special tionally well crafted little boat and hike. This time we did get to Eagles the two week cruise and the folks holds her value for resale. If you see Point. What a vista of our cruising we had spent it with had been. I just one in your area for under $40,000, ground from there!!! hope I don't have to live another call us. Have pickup truck, will DAY FOURTEEN Later we took a half century to get to do it all over travel!! short walk ashore and dinked over again.

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Lake Superior Cruise 1999 Jack Johnson

Our Lake Superior trip began when was our last cold day of the trip. Cove, again with no wind. we arrived at Grand Portage, MN, While in Hay Bay we saw moose, McCargoe Cove is a deep, deep where we hooked up with Ron and otters, swans, a fox and the ever- notch cut into the rock of the island. Dinah Davidson and their F-27 TRI present loons. The next morning It is about 2 miles long and a very SURF-N. Grand Portage is about 6 we headed for Chippewa Harbor. sheltered anchorage. Fortunately, miles south of the Canada/US Bor- Chippewa Harbor is a large notch there is also a dock so we spend 2 der and is where we put the boat in carved from the rocky coastline of nights at the dock. The first eve- the water. We had fog from July 2 Isle Royale. We anchored and ning we rowed our dingy up through 6 so were stuck in Grand spent several hours hiking and ex- Chicken Bone creek and came Portage. On the 7th, we sailed ploring. The next morning we within 75 feet of a moose and shot across 18 miles to Isle Royale Na- headed for Rock Harbor with no good video of her. The next day we tional Park. wind. We motored. Rock Harbor took a very long hike (almost 7 Isle Royale is a large island about is located on the NE end of the is- miles) around Chicken Bone Lake. 45 miles long. It is a National Park. land and is the other check-in/ The next morning we took a shorter It lies NE/SW. It has many small headquarters site. There is also a hike back into the site of the Mi- islands and islets around it. All of restaurant on this end of the island. nong Mine, an old deserted copper the harbors and islands run gener- We replenished fuel and water and mine on the island. We left McCar- ally NE/SW. There is a National proceeded around the tip of the is- goe Cove and headed for Thunder Park Headquarters on each end of land into Tobin Harbor. Tobin Har- Bay, Ontario to clear Canadian the island. We headed for Wash- bor is just a few hundred yards over Customs. The forecast was for 30- ington Harbor at the SE end of the the ridge from Rock Harbor. We knot winds from the southwest and island and checked in at Windigo. spent 2 nights at this harbor tied to we thought we d have a blast on a We spent 2 nights at Windigo doing a dock with all of the Rock Harbor broad reach. Wrong! A mile off some hiking and dinghy exploring. conveniences just a short walk shore the wind died and we ended On the evening of the 8th a moose away. We went on a couple of up motoring for almost 26 miles. came to the harbor and began forag- hikes, which occupied most of a We left Thunder Bay on the morn- ing for food on the bottom of the day. We left Tobin Harbor for ing of the 18th. You guessed it shallow area of the harbor. This McCargoe Cove and after going no wind. It s 14 nm to get out of scene was to be repeated several about 3 miles or so, we were getting Thunder Bay and we went several times during our trip. We left socked in by fog and headed back miles NE of the bay s entrance to Washington Harbor and headed for to the dock at Tobin Harbor. Good Edward Island. Edward Island has Siskiwit Bay in the rain on the 9th. thing too as it got so dense that we several nice anchorages and we We went behind Siskiwit Bay to couldn t see across the harbor. The spent the night in Edward s Harbor. Hay Bay and spent the night. That next day we headed for McCargoe (Continued on page 26)

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Lake Superior Cruise 1999 continued

(Continued from page 25) The next morning we headed for located near the entrance to Thun- We did some dinghy exploring, had Woodbine Harbor. Woodbine Har- der Bay. There is a park there and dinner and turned in for the night. bor is located on the tip of Simpson some campers. I mentioned that I The next morning we headed for Island and has a small inland lake was tired of sailing 60 miles to Loon Harbor some 15 miles away. on it, near the anchorage. We hiked make 30 and indicated that I d like We had a great spinnaker run on back to the lake and there were 2 to pull out at Thunder Bay but the this leg of the trip. The winds were small canoes with paddles there to truck and trailer were at Grand Port- about 8 to 10 knots and directly on use. We paddled around the small age. One of the campers reminded our stern. What a nice run! During lake and then hiked back to the me that there was a free bus that the run I heard a deep engine sound boat. The next morning we sailed went down to the Grand Portage and turned around to see what was for Rossport, which is as far North- Casino every evening and that if we behind us. A couple of miles away east as we went. Rossport is a wanted, he would drive us to the was a HUGE yacht. As she got small village with a gas dock and an pick-up spot when he and his son closer we could see she was a tri- ice-cream store. It also has 2 very got home later the next day. We maran configured vessel and she nice restaurants. We spent the night took him up on his offer and sailed came up to within a quarter of a at the dock in Rossport with plans into Thunder Bay the next day. We mile of us and then she turned and to head for Nipigon the next morn- showered, had a nice lunch and headed back out onto the lake. We ing. called our new friend in the after- got into Loon Harbor and about an noon. He came over to the marina The next morning was fog--very hour later the big yacht came in, and picked us up and took us to the thick fog. We didn t get going until took a look around and left. We Travel Center where we caught the 10:00 or so. The winds were non- later learned that she was a charter bus for Grand Portage. Upon arri- existent so we motored to Nipigon-- out of Florida, was 147 feet long val, we walked through the casino 30 miles. What a drag. At least we and Mel Gibson was aboard. We and down to the restaurant, out the had Auto on the job to steer the explored by dinghy and had dinner back door and over to the marina. boat. Nipigon is a nice little town ashore along with a very nice camp- We got our truck and trailer and with several restaurants, a large fire. drove back up to Thunder Bay. We grocery store, Laundromat, etc. We pulled the boat on Friday and began The next day we headed for Otter spent 2 days there. Judi and I got our trip home in the afternoon. It Cove just 5 miles away. Otter Cove our laundry and shopping done. was a very nice trip. We covered is quite long, over 2 miles, and we On Monday, 7/26 we left Ron & almost 400 miles in the boat. We went way back in to the shallows. Dinah and began our trek back to love the area from Thunder Bay to A creek empties into the cove and Grand Portage. We had a great Rossport for cruising. One could we dinghied as far up the creek as sailing day in the morning but then truly spend the entire summer there we could. We then went ashore and the wind piped up to the point and never get into the same anchor- hiked a hundred yards or so and where we were uncomfortable so age twice. Anchorages and harbors came to a very nice waterfall. We we quit around 1:00 PM. We spent of refuge are close together. One is spent about an hour back in there, the night at Moss Harbor. We had never in danger while cruising this looking at the falls from both the our worst night out during the area of the coast. You are never bottom and the top. Nice place! whole trip at Moss Harbor. There more than a couple of miles from a We left Otter Cove and headed for was a group of guys in the anchor- hidey-hole if the weather pipes up. CRP slip. CPR stands for Canadian age who played loud music until My friend and guru, Ron, advised and Pacific Railroad. This site is 4:30 in the morning. Judie never that the rest of Lake Superior s located on the tip of St. Ignace Is- got to sleep. This made for a bad North Shore is as good or better. land and is the site of a former fish- day for her and we didn t go very When you re in open water, the ing camp owned by the railroad. far the next day. We sailed to Loon water is clean enough to drink, They took their rich travelers here Harbor and spent the afternoon and though it is a bit cold for swim- for a few days of fishing. The har- evening there ming. We will certainly do this bor is a small all weather harbor again. which is very nice. The local boat- The next day we took off sailing ers have improved the site by add- into a southwest wind. This meant ing some floating docks and a a lot of tacking and we made it as sauna. The sauna was terrific. far as Tee Harbor. Tee Harbor is

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Charleston, SC to Savannah, GA via the ICW Max and Mandy Miller

Last June, Mandy and I trailered if there is a sign by the tollbooth boat at half to high tide. There are our MacGregor 26, Sean's Isle, that says "launch ramp full" turn no power lines in the area of the down I-26 to Charleston South into the gas station instead where ramp. Carolina with a plan to sail one way you can pull through and leave. The We are accustomed to boating in to Savannah, Georgia. We wish to sign doesn't mean that the ramp is tidal areas such as the Chesapeake pass along some of the things we full, it means that the parking area Bay and the Florida Keys, but the learned about this beautiful area on for cars with trailers is full. Before tide here is significant and the flow this trip. you leave the gas station, go inside runs hard. We had to abandon our and pick up a complimentary tide First, is how to get launched. The plan to back the boat from the ramp table. best place we found is the Charles- to our assigned berth because the ton City Marina on the Ashley The parking lot will most likely be rising tide mysteriously spun us River just west of downtown. full if the tide is high because it is around and aimed us at another boat Charleston is on a peninsula bor- difficult to launch at low tide. In (the centerboard may have hit a dered by the Cooper River on the fact, it will be best if you plan to shoal behind the ramp as we East and the Ashley River on the arrive at dead low tide, because you backed). You need a reliable, en- West. Take the Meeting St. exit (the will have the ramp and parking area gine to cruise these waters. Our 9.9 one downtown) and follow it to to yourself and you will have ample H.P. Johnson (Big John) was ade- Calhoun St. where you will turn time to setup and organize. By the quate and up to the task. right. Drive through and beyond the way, if you need to use tile rest- Later, while relaxing on the boat center of town until you see a sign rooms, they are back near the gate enjoying the late afternoon sun, we for the marina. Turn left at the sign, that leads to the shops and the Ash- met a fellow named Ron who works which is Halsey St.. It will take you ley River. on the Tow Boat/US craft moored to a sharp right turn (there's plenty If the lot is full or you decide to nearby. After discussing our plans of turning room here) onto Lock- come back later, circle through the to cruise to Savanna on the ICW, he wood, which will lead you to the gas station and turn left (north) pointed south across the Ashley marina which will be on your left. back onto Lockwood. Stay in the River and said that we would first The marina complex includes shop- left lane and turn left onto the Ash- be passing under `that bridge' to ping and dining, as well as a launch ley River Bridge (the second enter Wappoo Creek, which is the ramp and long-term parking and is bridge). It will take you to the Sa- next leg of the southbound ICW. somewhat intimidating at first sight vannah Highway where there are That didn't seem to agree with the to someone towing a large boat. shopping centers for provisioning. charts because the bridge he pointed When you first pull into the marina The Boat/US marine store is at to crosses over the Ashley just driveway, you are confronted by a 2049 Savannah Highway. north of the marina while Wappoo gas station on your left, a gate with Creek departs the Ashley directly We arrived at mid day and started a tollbooth leading to a parking lot across the river from the marina. I setting up right away. It was, by on the right and another gate thought he was probably an unin- chance, low tide. I found the dock- straight ahead beyond which are formed crewman for the tow opera- master's office at the end of the long eateries, stores and the Ashley tor, but I would later find out that pier just to the north (upriver) of the River. The gate ahead is for deliv- he was correct. ramp. He assigned us a berth in the ery traffic and is not an option so shallow area near the ramp. We That night, we unhitched the trailer your choices are right or left. Turn backed down the long cement ramp from the van and drove back to the into the gate on the right and take a far enough to finish loading the downtown area. The antebellum ticket boat from the pier at a convenient architecture is beautiful and there Drive your rig beyond the regular height. When loaded, we backed are many restaurants and bars that parking lot and you will find the down to the bottom. Still, we had to feature live music. Our favorite was launch ramp and trailer parking. wait about an hour for the tide to the "Chef and Clef" with jazz on the You don't need to pay now but upon rise before we could shove the boat main floor, balcony-dining over- departure, you will pay a very rea- off the trailer. This is a good con- looking the band from the second sonable fee for the long-term park- crete ramp with no drop off. It's ing and use of the ramp. However, capable of launching about any size (Continued on page 28)

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Charleston, SC to Savannah, GA via the ICW continued

(Continued from page 27) hard against us, that we were barely arrived. Just beyond the bridge on floor and a blues joint on the third making any headway at full throttle. starboard, is an inland beach where floor. We also liked the '82 Queen Elliot cut is about a quarter mile boaters run their crafts up onto the St. which is located at, where else, long and 50 feet wide (maybe less). blackish sand and frolic in the 82 Queen St.. I told Mandy that if we had to come brackish water. We decided to stop through here with the tide running and ran Sean's Ale up onto the The next morning, we departed on a this fast with us, I would prefer to beach with a stern anchor dropped rising tide. Once clear of the ma- turn the boat around and, at half as we went in. The tide was now rina, we had to run almost full throttle, let the tide wash us through falling fast and within half an hour, throttle to crab against the tide in backwards. At least we would have she was high and dry. I was even the Ashley just to avoid being control (and some fun). The guides able to walk out to reset my anchor swept upriver. As we approached advise sounding a horn upon enter- which was now in less than one toot the Wappoo, I quickly realized what ing Elliot Cut because it is so nar- of water. Ron meant about passing under the row. A boat entering from the other bridge. The bridge he had pointed After about an hour, the tide had side may wish to wait until you are out does pass over the Ashley up- bottomed out and risen again through. river of the Wappoo but it curves enough for us to power ourselves left and also passes over the Wap- Elliot Cut is bordered on both sides back out into the deep water. Late poo. Our aging chart showed two with high cliffs with more homes in the afternoon we anchored for the separate bridges. This is a new 65' above. It opens dramatically into night at the edge of a side channel fixed bridge and presents no prob- the wide Stono River where miles next to a sea of tall grass at an area lem to the sailor. of green sea grasses contrast the called Church Flats where the tides rushing waters. This day, a bright from each direction meet. The The ICW shoreline close to blue sky complemented the scene. name, I'm told, was given because Charleston is lined with fine homes churchgoers coming from either with green lawns and an occasional The Stono, if the wind was abeam direction would ride the rising tide swampy area where tall grasses or behind the beam, would be suit- to church, have their service during sway in the wind (if there was any). able for sailing. But this was June slack water, and then float home on If you have to motor, this is a lovely and there was not a breath of wind. the falling tide. I anchored bow and place to have to do it. The next We had scheduled our vacation for stern because there was no swing bridge was a short distance farther early June because we hoped to room in the narrow side channel. and was already opened for a sail- avoid the worst of the hurricane boat ahead of us. I was relieved season. We had chosen this part of In the morning, I had a devil of a because, despite some research at the ICW because of the wide rivers time weighing anchor. Overnight, home, I couldn't find any good in- that we believed we would be able the tide had risen several feet above formation about the opening sched- to sail at times and the many all the level at which we anchored and ules for the ICW bridges in this weather inlets to the sea where we the nylon anchor lines were area. Some open on command could sail if we couldn't sail the stretched so far that even alter I while others have a variety of ICW. But we were unlucky with paid out all of the line on both an- schedules. I looked at a new Water- wind as well as the heat. The tem- chors, I still couldn't get over top of way Guide, (the only one in the perature reached nearly 100 degrees either one to haul it aboard. I had to store) but the information had been or more each day with full sun- tie another line to the stern rode to removed. Every other source that I shine. The heat index often ex- get enough length to weigh the bow had consulted, had old information ceeded 120. We probably should anchor. But eventually we were have been sailing Northbound in underway under blue skies and a Ron also said that we should leave this area because the prevailing white hot sun. on the last of the flood which we winds, if they ever showed up, did not do. Otherwise, he said, we Departing Church Flats, we mo- would have been more likely be- could have some tough going tored slowly past long stretches of hind the beam. against the tide. He was very right trees and woodlands beyond. We about that too. As we approached Later that first day, we reached the did some birding as well as dolphin the next segment of the ICW, John Limehouse swing bridge. It watching. This area is the most known as Elliot cut, the tide ran so was opening for another boat as we (Continued on page 29)

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Charleston, SC to Savannah, GA via the ICW continued

(Continued from page 28) A friendly gentleman next to us in ing hours and give us the phone beautiful we traveled on this trip. the bar proudly showed me his number of the bridge tender. About Many times throughout the day, we Confederate belt buckle, Confeder- that time, the tender saw me on the were not near any roads or houses, ate socks, and a small sample of his phone and raised the bridge. Next watching scenery that can only be Confederate underwear. The marina time, I'll pretend to make the call accessed by boat. The tide was with complex also has a top drawer, al- first. us this day and for most of the rest beit expensive, Mediterranean res- By now, the tide was running of the trip. After passing a small taurant as well as a more casual against us at a substantial clip and I village, the ICW opened wide and I restaurant. Since we anchored and realized the marina was fully ex- yearned for wind from any direction cooked aboard the night before, we posed to the flow. 'The good thing but there was none. The port and went top drawer and were not dis- is that the marina entrance and the starboard markers were set so wide appointed. finger piers are aligned with the apart that I couldn't identify their The next day, again under bright flow rather than perpendicular to it. numbers on either side even with blue sunny skies, we motored down It's times like this that I appreciate the 7x50 binoculars. This day's plan Bohicket Creek with the tide and the maneuverability of a small boat. was to leave the ICW and head out the North Edisto River to the We slowly crabbed into a slip near down the North Edisto River and Atlantic. Shrimp boats followed and the main pier and put out our dock Lip the Bohicket Creek to the Bo- soon passed us on the way. As the lines. hicket Marina. last of the green entrance buoys slid Beaufort (which I'm told is pro- But for the rest of this day, the tide by I swung the boat to starboard nounced Be-you-fort in SC and swept us along at good speed caus- and aimed it southwest. Boe-fort in NC) is an interesting ing us (me) to miss our turn into the We motored into the inlet and up town and can provide much to the North Edisto River. (Could we be the wide river several miles until transient sailor. There are restau- there already?) I had to motor close we picked up the ICW again. I radi- rants and retail stores on the main enough to one of the markers to get oed the Downtown Marina in Beau- street a few yards from the marina. positive identification of our posi- fort to get a slip assignment, just in And there is yet more Southern tion. We turned south into the river. case they were closed when we beauty. Spanish moss hangs in the It was thick with dolphin, which arrived. A woman's voice came thick, humid air from ancient trees rolled all around us. We had already back with, "Take any available slip over manicured lawns. In the down- seen several on this trip but today and pay in the morning, Honey". town area we discovered more ante- we were seeing dozens. After about bellum architecture with fancy iron- three miles, we turned to port into Just before reaching Beaufort, we work gates and colorful veranda Bohicket Creek and passed by the approached the Lady's Island ceilings. A nearby cemetery tells little town Rockville and a fleet of Bridge and tried to find an opening stories of the town history. shrimp boats. Soon we were at the schedule, which we usually find marina. posted on the side of the bridge or a The next morning, we walked to a nearby pier. There was none. So we nearby restaurant for breakfast. As is our usual experience, we tried to open the bridge with the Shortly after we took our seats in an couldn't raise the dockmaster on the long and short blast of our horn aging wooden booth, two more cou- radio, so we stopped at the gas with no results. We tried again with ples wandered in. The lone waitress dock. The dockmaster assigned us no results. It was 10 minutes before served tea or water to her customers three slips (if there's a boat in the the top of the hour so we presumed with a generous smile. She was first one, try the next, if that's occu- that the bridge either opens only on careful to serve them in their order pied, try the third). Bohicket Ma- the hour or won't open until after of arrival. Before she had finished, rina lies below a long row of con- the "rush" hour, usually 6:00 PM. the last couple in blurted out that dos overlooking the marina. In the We waited and on the hour we they were ready to order. The wait- bars and shops, we met many of the blasted again. Still there was no ress turned and in a beautiful and condo dwellers who also have boats response. We tried to hail on VHF slow Southern drawl responded in the marina. We enjoyed discuss- channels 9, 13, and 16 with no re- with "Things move slowly here. I'll ing boating topics with them as well sults. Finally we used our cellular serve them first (us), then these as other topics such as the "war of phone to call the coast guard in folks next then you folks. If you are northern aggression" (we're in the Charleston. The guard couldn't help deep South here). us other than to confirm the open- (Continued on page 30)

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Charleston, SC to Savannah, GA via the ICW continued

(Continued from page 29) here seem to be part of plantations, I'll be alright". in a hurry, there's a McDonalds as they are often called, and each The next day we drove to Savannah nearby." plantation is self-contained with its instead of sailing there. Savannah is own restaurants and shops and is We departed at noon when the wa- another beautiful town with a long miles from any other facilities. ter was slack for a few moments stretch of shops and restaurants easing our maneuvering challenges. The next morning, I told Mandy built into historic old buildings We motored along in the Beaufort that I believed we should haul the down by the Savannah River. You River with the falling tide passing boat there in Hilton I lead and forgo can get a beer in a plastic cup and Paris Island along the way. Soon we the last 17 miles to Savannah. I walk along the waterfront without entered the wide Port Royal Sound, learned there was a usable launch fear of trouble from the police. We another all weather outlet to the sea. ramp nearby but I didn't find a list- were told that the cobblestones that We considered heading back out to ing for one in Savannah. I should surface the streets were taken centu- open water because the falling tide have contacted T/S member, John ries ago from the hold of sailing would carry us quickly along and Ulmer before departing and asked ships that had crossed the Atlantic our next stop would be Hilton Head him to consult his list of ramps for without cargo and, loaded with Island which we could approach this area but I didn't think of it until goods from the new world, didn't either by the sea or the ICW. We too late. Anyway, according to our need the extra ballast for the return decided to buck the tide and cross guides, there is not a real marina in trip. We learned that one of the res- the five mile wide sound to pick up Savannah other than a tie-up at a taurants near the river was once the the ICW again since there was still waterfront hotel. Instead you must meeting place of sailors from no wind and we didn't have detailed push on to the town of Thunderbolt around the world where they charts of the ocean inlet to Hilton to get dockage,m but then you are swapped lies over mugs of grog (or Head. several miles from Savannah. so they say). We stopped there to Mandy agreed, given the extreme hear some music and recognized the We wanted to stay in a marina that heat, that we should end our watery jazz pianist as the lady pianist fea- was not isolated from shore side adventure and see Savannah by tured in the film "Midnight in the activities but not excessively priced. land. Garden of Good and Evil," adapted We decided on the Palmetto Bay from a novel based on fact about a Marina where there are condos and We drove to the launch ramp first Savannah scandal. restaurants on shore but they charge so we would know where to bring a reasonable amount for dockage. our van and trailer upon return later I will offer just one more piece of Another feature of this marina is that day. The only good one is on advice. If you park in one of their that there are no finger piers. In- the north side of a narrow island in many parking garages, be aware of' stead, boats are moored alongside Mackay Creek where the Route 278 the time that they close the garage one of the long main piers aligned bridge over the creek touches down and pull down the steel linked doors with the tidal flow. This makes briefly on the island. Route 278 is and lock all of the pedestrian en- docking in the swift current much also the only road to Hilton Head so trances. When you leave the bar to easier. The marina is somewhat you can't miss it by car. It took the retrieve you car after swapping shabby considering the resort repu- rest of the day to get the job done some yarns of your own, you may tation of' Hilton Head but the show- but by nightfall we had a motel find it locked in and yourself locked ers are in a building adjacent to the room and we were headed for din- out with no way back to your home. restaurants and are fine although ner. The highlight of my day was However, the taxis run late into the inadequate for more than one per- meeting a proper Southern gentle- night. son at a time. man in a convenience store who responded to my perfunctory "How Hilton Head is not a prime location ya doin?" with "Well, I guess that I for transient sailors unless you in- could be better but it would cost me tend to rent a car or spend a sub- more than I can afford, so I guess stantial amount on taxis. Marinas

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McGregor Bay Wayne Bell

We had always considered water before realizing this, and didn't take the "big boats" up, but McGregor Bay in the North Chan- were kindly asked to leave. Maybe there were other real big boats nel to be off limits to sailboats, be- another time. We understand that tucked in little holes all through that cause of the unknown dangers lurk- just past Dreamer's Rock is the area. The eastern shore of this area ing under the clear water. With the Birch Island Lodge, which has been borders the Killarney Provincial recent publication of Chart 2206 for reported to have some boating sup- Park, therefore, the wilds of the McGregor Bay, a whole new cruis- plies. North Channel are your neighbors. ing area has opened up to us. The The plan was to anchor for the night We were told that to get to the East past two summers, we ventured into in a bay between Middle Sampson and West Channels with the cruis- McGregor Bay with Bells Toil, our Island and East Sampson Island. ing boats, one should follow the Catalina 25, and several other T/ After leaving Boat Passage, we southern shore of McGregor Bay to S'ers and discovered some beautiful crossed McGregor Bay, keeping the a small island (L46º 02' 40"N, anchorages. group of islands just inside the en- Lo81º 37' 90"W). Keep that island McGregor Bay is dotted with cot- trance of McGregor Bay to our star- to port and continue through the tages, probably more than you will board. Our waypoint was an imagi- deep-water channel. When you see in any other area of the North nary point just south of Jumbo Is- cross onto Chart 2206-4, you can Channel. Because of this, we were land. (L46º 02' 49"N, Lo81º 39' turn starboard toward the mountain, careful to choose spots that were 22"W) We continued along the then turn port again, (looks like away from the cottages to respect "shoreline" of Pardsay Crag Island some shoals there to keep an eye their privacy. Look carefully at the and Peru Island. After passing out for) following the mountain to chart (this will all make much more through the "channel" between the the entrance of the narrow finger sense to you if you have Chart 2206 next cluster of islands, we turned leading to the East and West Chan- in front of you) and you will see port, continuing up the bay past a nel. (L46º 03' 05"N, Lo81º 33' black squares. Those squares repre- few cottages, and dropped our hook 90"W). We are told there is a pa- sent cottages, which proves helpful in an uninhabited area. Anywhere goda style building on an island on when trying to identify the many in that cove or just inside the cove your starboard as you approach the islands in the Bay. to port had plenty of depth for our finger. trailerable boats. In fact, there was The first time we ventured into Last summer, a fairly large group of a lovely flat rock in the western McGregor Bay, we followed the us paraded to the Iroquois Bay area arm, which was perfect for a T/S range toward the Cement Mill on of McGregor Bay following the dinner gathering. We were also the western shore, and turned the directions given to us by Tom and entertained that evening with a lone corner of Little La Cloche Island to Ann Lyons. We lined up like duck- loon, calling for his mate. enter Boat Passage. Our first stop lings following their mother, and in McGregor Bay was just off The next day we went exploring in proceeded with caution through Dreamer's Peninsula. We wanted to our dinghies. The possibilities are some very narrow and hairy pas- see Dreamer's Rock, a 220 foot high endless. The contrast in the chan- sages, but we all made it, and were rock where legend says the Ottawa nels adds to the beauty and intrigue. glad we did. Our only suggestion is youths would go for a seven day We motored over deep channels to keep one hand on the tiller, one solitary fast, during which time they and areas where we had to kick the hand on the chart, one eye on the would learn of their destiny in motor up and row over rocks. Take water, and one eye on the islands as dreams and hallucinations. We a chart so you can find your way you pass. have tried several times to enter this "home", a lunch for when you get area by car, but it was not to be our hungry, and a few extra shear pins, destiny. This time proved to be just just in case. How to explain?? *Well here goes as unsuccessful because of a reli- nothing: One of the more beautiful areas was gious ceremony taking place. We in the East and West Channels. We dropped the anchors in the deep (Continued on page 32)

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McGregor Bay continued

(Continued from page 31) After entering McGregor Bay at McGregor Point, take a northeasterly course to (L46º 03' 20"N, L 81º 39' 23"W). There you will see a white on white range. Turn to port toward Harrison Rock. Keeping Harrison Rock to port, head toward a lighthouse in front of a cottage. (It's pretty, but no time to look -- keep an eye on the water). This is one of those "hairy" areas. Continue through passage, past Dog Home Passage, onto Chart 2206-3. Hug the port shore, keeping the two little rocks to starboard. (I know, you will think we're crazy, but it's the only way through) After maneuvering through this area, turn northerly toward Hopper Island. There is a large white house that will be quite visible. After passing the white house, aim for the green house on the southern tip of Garden Island. Keeping Garden Island to port, proceed through this narrow cut and into the large bay. You will then proceed between Garden Island/Iroquois Island and McGregor Island. If you are ready for an anchorage, this is your first chance. To your starboard, you will find Lunge Bay. If you decide to continue, you will see a red daymarker on a rock and a red buoy in the water. KEEP THE RED BUOY TO STARBOARD, and proceed through this narrow cut, which had been blasted when Franklin Delano Roosevelt, an avid fisherman, spent a brief holiday visiting in the North Channel en route to the Quebec conference of August 1943. The story is that he wanted to fish Iroquois Bay, and the only way to get there was to blast a channel for his boat. Lucky for us. If you have made it this far, you are home free. Continue northerly into Iroquois Bay.

Once you get into Iroquois Bay, From our anchorage in Dead Horse boat to finance such a project! there are several choices for anchor- Bay we were able to dingy across to Another option is to follow the ages. Our group chose to head east a fishing camp on the northern western shore of Iroquois Island and anchor in the two bays in the shore (right on the 81º37' latitude into the next bay. We explored this southeastern corner. At the en- line on chart 2206-3). From there, area only by dingy. trance to the first bay is a small we followed a path for an invigorat- campsite tucked in amongst the ing hike to the top of "Old Baldy" If you decide not to venture too far cedars. This narrow cuts open up the highest point in the Killarney into McGregor Bay, at least poke into a scenic, protected bay sur- Mountains. The view is breathtak- your bow in and sail around the rounded with high cliffs, but there ing. large bay area just inside McGregor is plenty of room to tie several Point. There is plenty of water to Another option, we were told, is to boats to shore. While we were enjoy a day of tacking back and go to the western end of Iroquois there, several boatloads of swim- forth -- maybe even a race will de- Bay and anchor in the area known mers arrived to take turns jumping velop! as Pot Hole Portage. This area was off the high rocks into the deep wa- recommended by Pete and Carol ter. We had a difficult time getting *The above directions are just ob- Bowman. It is quite beautiful, but an anchor to set there, but others servations. Please refer to your very deep. We found a "water gar- were fine. We opted to move on to charts to determine exact locations, den" there that we would love to the next bay, "Dead Horse Bay", and trust your calculations, not our have in our backyard. I suppose the which was not as picturesque, but GPS waypoints. local nursery could duplicate it, but had great holding. we would probably have to sell the

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McGregor Bay continued

McGregor Bay

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Clipper Snips Page 33 Spring 2000

A Fall Cruise of the Southern Chesapeake Guy Hubbard

At the end of the recent cruise of This cruise was a month-long ad- For both of us, the width of the Bay Chesapeake Bay, I looked over my venture around the southern part of as it approaches the ocean was very ADC map and realized that over 25 the Bay, which neither of us had noticeable--and often quite daunt- years I had gradually built up a col- ever been to before. The Maryland/ ing--together with its tendency to lection of 43 red-topped press pins, Virginia line roughly marks our build up significant waves to chal- each of which lenge our indicates an small boat. anchorage. It s The cruise not that I really began in mid- k n o w t h e S e p t e m b e r C h e s a p e a k e and continued Bay, because until a close few people can swipe from claim that, but I H u r r i c a n e can say that I ve Irene in mid- been on various October per- sailboats that suaded us that dropped a hook it was time to in those many go home. places. Before writing On this occa- about some of sion, I trailed the sailing my Seaward 25 events, I need from Blooming- to describe my ton, Indiana to e x p e r i e n c e Deltaville, Vir- trailering the ginia (at the boat around mouth of the the western Rappahannock side of Wash- River) where I ington, DC. In was joined by good weather, m y f r i e n d it is likely to George Iem- be a test of melo from Lan- nerves; but in caster, Pennsyl- my case it was vania. George something I and I met by would not way of the wish on any- Internet several one. Everyone cruises ago, driving on the which to some Capital Belt- people may way that after- seem a little noon knew risky but in fact exactly where it has turned out they were to be a good cruising partnership. going--except me. Added to this, We never would have met other- northern cruising boundary, while rain chose to sheet down while the wise; and neither of us would have the bridge-tunnel at the mouth of traffic drove it back into the air as been able to enjoy cruising as much the Bay was clearly visible at the as we have. southern end. (see chart) (Continued on page 35)

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A Fall Cruise of the Southern Chesapeake continued

(Continued from page 34) lights of the cruise, since a day-by- were really moving. In some ways spray that reduced visibility to a record is not likely to interest any- I d have preferred to have furled the minimum. If anyone considers sail- one who was not there. One of the main and rode along with a furled ing to be dangerous, let them try earliest events was being at a dock genny; but in those seas neither of driving on 4-6 lanes of fast moving when a strong squall went through us fancied the idea of making the traffic hauling two and half tons of in the middle of the night. I prefer switch. After an exhilarating ride, sailboat where at any moment some to be at anchor, because unless an we arrived at the Wolf Trap light- dimly visible road sign indicates a anchor drags the boat moves in re- house much sooner than expected. lane change. lation to the weather. When By the time we reached the New moored, the outcome can be very Point Comfort light and were cross- With the dangers of freeway driving different; and that was the experi- ing Mobjack Bay, the wind less- behind me, it was a delight to reach ence when this squall hit. It had ened and we were moving along the laid-back village of Deltaville, been a warm night, so the Plexiglas nicely under full sail. The adrenalin VA., with George behind me to in the upper hatch board had been flow was still with us, however, as pick up any pieces that might drop removed leaving only the screen in we later dropped anchor in the pro- off the rig. By that time, of course, place to deter mosquitoes while tected waters of the Perrin River the weather was bright and sunny encouraging ventilation. I was near the mouth of the York River. and the tensions of the day before awakened somewhere around 3am were forgotten. The moral of all this As much as the Bay can be rough, it by horizontal streams of fast mov- is: beware of AAA travel routing can also be glassy calm; and we ing water being driven through the that takes the best way to a desti- experienced such days also. With whole length of the cabin. Stum- nation. For those who may be inter- the knowledge that a wind was bling from my bunk I finally found ested, I soon learned of a much pre- forecast to be coming from a par- the Plexiglas sheet and fumbled it ferred way of returning home that ticular direction the next day, we into place while all the while being by-passed our federal capital, by occasionally motored toward that pounded by shafts of ice-cold rain. way of Winchester. direction so as to take advantage of Small craft warnings interest me the next day s wind direction. After Unlike one-design racing where all and I ve read up on them in Chap- an exciting crossing from Mobjack the competitors are all in boats that man and elsewhere; but I m still not Bay to Cape Charles, for example, look the same, cruising sailors are quite sure what they mean or we motored on a glassy sea all the usually in boats of different designs whether they will happen as pre- way to Occahannock Creek so as to and consequently rarely see what dicted. One such warning was very benefit from the wind predicted for they look like close to. Sailing with much on target, however. A morn- the following day. Occahannock Jim and Kathy gave us this perspec- ing view of the Rappahannock Creek lies on the Virginia Eastern tive; and naturally we took photo- River showed it to be an unbroken Shore of the Bay between Cape graphs of each other. On our final mass of white caps. But we really Charles and Onancock. Like most sail of the cruise we anchored in an wanted to go sailing--so we did. of the places we visited on this extension of Taylor Creek in Irving- The first reef went in before we left cruise, this one was new to us. The ton, called Church Prong. It s a the protection of Broad Creek. By chart showed a number of places beautiful and well-protected spot, the time we were a short distance that seemed to have well protected and the shore has more than its fair south of Stingray Point on the Bay, anchorages and several were en- share of impressive mansions. As itself, it was clear that a second reef dorsed in our cruising guide. We we sat rafted together, enjoying was needed. Without it, we would dropped the anchor in one of them goblets of red wine, a patrician cou- soon have been out of control in the but also went to see some of the ple motored by in a canvas- 6-7 foot waves. Since reefing is others in anticipation of the next canopied launch and in answer to executed from the cockpit, the sec- time we came. The southern part of our salutes, the skipper called out ond reef soon went in and we con- the Eastern Shore of the Bay is not Welcome to our creek . Among tinued our charge southwards. as well supplied with good anchor- ourselves--and irreverently--we There was no question of unfurling ages as the Western Shore, so it thought they were really checking the genny in those conditions. The seemed a good idea to explore what us out to ensure that we were not hull speed of the boat is a little was available. Another good place undesirables. above 6 knots; but George s GPS is Onancock Creek about twenty What follows are some of the high- recorded speeds of 7.8 knots, so we (Continued on page 36)

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(Continued from page 35) years ago; and yet this place is real. the local council ever did right! We miles north of the Occahannock. On first landing at the wharf, the particularly enjoyed it because the The only disadvantage is that the building looks as though it has marina and the surrounding com- town is several miles inland from fallen into deep decay. On closer munity offered the chance to get the Bay. inspection, it appears to have been clean and to eat well after being on added to and then patched and re- the water for several days. One While writing about the Eastern patched until it s difficult to tell hardship when visiting the Tangier Shore, it s fitting to mention Tang- what part--if any--is original. Out- and Smith Islands is that they are ier and Smith Islands and also Cris- side, all kinds of crates and contain- dry. field. Tangier and Smith are only a ers lie around where they were last few miles from the eastern shore, The bucolic character of these is- put down. The test of whether the but they are quite unique. Both are lands contrasted starkly with our place was in operation and if so very low-lying and both are split in visit to Hampton Roads and the whether it was open that day could two by navigable waterways. Dur- shipyards of Portsmouth and New- only be tested by trying the door. It ing recent hurricanes Tangier Is- port News. An aircraft carrier was opened. And we walked into what land, in particular, was substantially under construction in Newport could have been someone s kitchen, under water from the tidal surge. News and several large naval ships but surrounded by miscellaneous Considerable caution is needed were being repaired. Across the bay merchandise (some wrapped in when approaching both islands be- in Portsmouth modern missile ships plastic to keep dust off). Several cause of the extreme shallowness of lay close to old-line cruisers from local people occupied a large the surrounding waters. On such the Second World War era. On the kitchen table in the center of this occasions, I m pleased to have a day we were there, there was no space and were joking among them- Seaward sailboat with its extremely wind so we motored leisurely past selves as we entered. We were led shallow draft. all these monstrous ships, all the to a dining area off to one side of while making sure not to get too Of the two, we found Tangier Is- this room and about the same dis- close and excite the military guard land to be more interesting than tance from a kitchen where the ac- boat that was cruising around. The Smith Island. It seemed to have tual cooking took place. The eating whole of Hampton Roads would be more things going on, although that area was full of local memorabilia a marvelous place for sailboat rac- may have been because we were that had clearly been collected over ing but there was not much action where the activity was occurring. many years--real stuff rather than on the day we were there. Since it Also, we found ourselves weather- the glitzy junk found in suburban was a Sunday, dozens of power- bound in Tangier and set out to eateries in an effort to provide at- boats--large and small--were an- splash our way around the island in mosphere. Since the season was chored or were drifting around in the rain rather than stay cooped up over, the large outdoor dining area clusters where they thought the aboard the boat. Hilda Crockett s was closed off, that is, until some fishing was good. We did our best Chesapeake House restaurant on people came in and wanted to eat to keep our distance and not to in- Tangier is a unique experience in outside. We then had the dubious terfere with them, but there were so family-type eating (the Crockett s benefit of a cold draft blowing by many that it was not easy. We spent have been on Tangier since the 17th us when we had just come in off the that night at the Willoughby Bay century). Shirley s Bay View Inn is water and were still trying to warm Marina, which is a haven for live- also very good: we were grateful to ourselves after being caught in a aboards, including those on their be able to join their breakfast on a rain shower. way south (in the fall) by way of wet Sunday morning. At another In the spirit of contrast, Somers the Intracoastal Waterway to Flor- restaurant, I also enjoyed the best Cove Marina, in Crisfield--only a ida. One beautiful boat, a canoe- pound of boiled shrimp I d had for few miles away on the mainland is stern ketch caught our attention and a long time, again while waiting for as nice a municipal marina as you ll we learned that it was for sale. It the weather to clear. ever find. I first came here about had been built by a man who, hav- As unique as Tangier Island is, twenty years ago and at that time ing taken 10 years to finish it, then Rukes Store on Smith Island is next the marina was more modest. It has died a sad story. to impossible to describe. It resem- since been expanded. As one local In every cruise something unex- bles a Hollywood set for one of the resident told me, the marina is one Ma and Pa Kettle movies of many of the few things that in her opinion (Continued on page 37)

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(Continued from page 36) well as uncomfortable. So our de- five gray, destroyer-like fishing pected and potentially dangerous parture was delayed until mid- boats with foaming bow-waves usually happens. This cruise was afternoon when the tide was ex- charging toward us as we headed in no exception. We had decided to pected to float us off. Eventually to Reedville. It was clear that they sail into Mobjack Bay and up the the boat did float free and the an- were racing to see who would get East River. An anchorage that at- chor was retrieved. Another phone in first--and we were in their way. tracted us was Tabbs Creek near call led to the power being cut-off Our first thought was to scramble the mouth of the River. The author while we gingerly motored out. out of the way, but since it was of the cruising guide had heard that The antenna never touched the unlikely that they d deliberately it was a nice place but had not been lines at all on the outbound trip. run us down, we held our course. there. The only obstacles were the Later, when the mast came down We were nearly at their dock by the shallowness of the water and the for traveling, I discovered a partly time they overtook us and by then power cables over the creek. Ac- melted patch on the antenna about they were moving much more cording to the Chesapeake Chart- 9 inches from the tip where the slowly. The skill of their skippers book the authorized clearance of contact had occurred--about 34 feet was impressive as they brought these cables was 40 feet and the above the water! these large boats in to the wharf. Seaward mast is 32 plus a couple By throwing the engines into re- The message from this episode is of feet for the UHF antenna, so that verse they made them stop exactly clear. Be cautious when reading was not a problem. where they wanted to dock. printed statements about the We nudged our way into this beau- heights of overhead obstructions of Reedville has an interesting history tiful creek in the late afternoon and all kinds. The problem remains, and the fisherman s museum is were carefully negotiating the shal- however, that even where there is well worth a visit; but until the lows when there was an explosion. no problem, it is very difficult to recently built marina on the point, We both thought someone had estimate whether a mast will have docking for transient pleasure boats fired something like a grenade enough clearance, largely because was a problem. And the new ma- launcher at us, but in fact the an- of the effects of vertical perspec- rina is still quite exposed. How- tenna had hit the power line and the tive. Needless to say, George and I ever, visiting sailors should also bolt of electricity had exploded at will be extremely cautious in the know about Spud Parker: he wel- the deck connection of the VHF future whenever we see any over- comes visiting sailors at his private radio and had blown it apart. Re- head obstruction--regardless of dock. To get there, take the star- gardless of whether the chart was what is printed on a chart. Fortu- board side of Reedville--the town incorrect or whether the lines had nately no one was hurt and the only is on a narrow peninsular. Toward sagged, we were now prisoners on loss was the VHF radio. the end of the channel on the star- the far side of live power lines and board side is a solidly built dock Quite a different kind of excite- didn t dare return. Added to that, that has yellowish tape around the ment awaited us as we approached we had also knocked out the trans- tops of the posts. This is Spud s Reedville, which is on Cockerell former serving nearby houses. On dock. He lives in the house at the Creek just north of the mouth of the shouted advice of the power foot of the dock and enjoys talking the Great Wicomico River. We had company repairman we got the with visiting sailors. On this occa- watched the 200 foot fishing boats phone number to call. We were sion, however, he was off sailing sending their launches out to circle thankful to have a cell phone on the on a schooner but his daughter was the shoals of menhaden (a fish used boat and called them about having just as welcoming as he had been for fertilizer and animal food) quite the power cut off in the morning so when I visited before and we were close to their Reedville base and we could leave safely. invited us pass the word along. then emptying them into their But our experience was not over. holds. While all this is going on, The cruise ended rather abruptly The following morning, on receiv- light aircraft flew overhead search- with the approach of Hurricane ing confirmation that the power ing for more concentrations of fish Irene. It had first passed over Cuba was off, we prepared to leave. But and radioing instructions to the and then Florida and the Carolinas we were firmly aground; and soon boats below. We didn t think much and was approaching the southern afterwards the boat slumped on its about the boats after a while until (Continued on page 38) side, which was embarrassing as we turned to look back and saw

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A Fall Cruise of the Southern Chesapeake continued

(Continued from page 37) tled in record time while it contin- one of them is to be able to make part of Virginia--where we were. In ued to rain. We were able to head quick escapes of this kind. inland before dark--soaking wet but an effort to haul the boat and head And so ended our southern Chesa- relieved. As it happened, Irene inland, we had to motor through fog peake cruise. All that remained turned out to sea at just about this and only just missed a drenching by were the hundreds of miles of free- time and saved us and many other one of the outlying bands of rain way ahead of me leading back people from a bad experience. ahead of the storm. With the pros- home to the middle west. pect of being hit by rain, wind, and Owning a trailerable boat really tidal surges, the boat was disman- does have its compensations and Cruise Announcements

Lake Powell, Utah . Sept. 2000 (2 wks). Contact: Craig & Sharon Tuttle at (406)-254-2374 or Carol Kulish or Bill Cone at (406)-793-5733

Nor'east trailer sailors 2000 cruises Carroll Siebert The nor'east trailer sailors held their annual winter get together last evening at our home. Twenty seven folks at- tended and we had a very enjoyable time. During the evening we decided on the 2000 cruising schedule we will be sponsoring. The first cruise will be a cruise of Cayuga Lake near Ithaca NY. This cruise will be held over the Memorial day weekend May 27, 28, 29, 2000. Norman Jennings will be the cruise director and will gladly provide further infor- mation on the cruise. He can be reached at 607-387-9635 or by e-mail at [email protected]. Many of us use this as a spring shake down cruise in preparation for the Thousand Island cruise. The second cruise is our Annual Thousand Island cruise. This cruise will be held June 24th thru July 1, 2000. This cruise is held on the Saint Lawrence river and western lake Ontario. It involves sailing in both US and Cana- dian waters with most nights spent docked on islands in the Canadian Park system. Cruise directors are: Bob Bor- den 570-724-56091 Carroll Seibert 570-662-3799 e-mail [[email protected]] Contact either for more information if interested in joining this cruise. The third planned gathering of trailer sailors is a "Macgregor Fest" to be held over the Labor day weekend Sept 2,3,4 2000. The "Macgregor Fest" will be held on Cayuga Lake near Ithaca NY. We want to see how many and what variety of Macgregor sailboats we can get together at one time on one lake. Last year, with out any planning we had 8 Macgregors of various sizes and years assembled. This year we want to have a lot more. Trailer Sailors with other makes of sailboat are welcome to join us. The cruise director for the "Macgregor Fest" is: Norman Jennings 607-387-9635 email [[email protected]].

Gathering Announcements

Spring gathering--Dick and Pat Zets.

You are again invited to our home for the fifth annual spring gathering. (Just in case you think that you missed last year, we didn't do this last year.) The date is April 8, 2000. We will plan on starting about 3:00 P.M. (but don't let that stop you from coming earlier, we will just put you to work.) and break up when all have left. Bring a dish to pass and we will bake up a ham, put on a pot of sloppy joes and keep the coffee and tea pots full. ( Yes, I will have the white Niagara on tap.) Don't worry about hot dishes, we can warm them in the oven or micro- wave. If you plan on attending let us know so that we can plan accordingly, and get directions out to you. Feel free to invite fellow sailors, they need not be a TSA member. We can sign them up after they get here.. If you have pictures, videos, or anything else of interest bring it along. We are looking forward to seeing old friends

Clipper Snips Page 38 Spring 2000

Editor s Last Word Mike Nelson

Well, there was this whole blank page left, so I thought Snips. Labels may be created directly from the Micro- I d take it and put it to use. First, I want to thank all soft Works file, and then sent to either Wayne Bell or those who contributed to this issue. Special thanks to David Craigie. If you are willing to help, please con- Diana Nelson for proof-reading the entire issue. A very tact me directly (see contact information on inside front few articles are being deferred to the Summer issue. cover). Wayne and Debbie Bell have volunteered to However, we need more articles for the Summer stuff these publications into envelopes, and add the Issue. So, how about writing up an interesting cruise, labels. John Clement has volunteered (remember doing or send Debbie Bell some short tips that you have this John?!) to re-mail all the Canadian envelopes found helpful, or send in a how-to article. We can scan (seems the Canadian governmentt. wants a disclaimer photographs (and promise to return them). We can use that every envelope mailed to Canada does not contain digital camera files. We accept articles by e-mail, snail a bomb). mail, or carrier pigeon. Although we would love to SUGGESTIONS FOR AUTHORS: After conducting have computer files, we can scan in clean typed articles. an informal survey of several members, we are offering If you hand-write, please do so legibly, and note that some suggestions for cruising articles. Remember, the print is easier to read than is long-hand. intent of these articles is to tell our fellow members VOLUNTEERS NEEDED: I just finished creating about places where they may want to try trailering and both this issue of Clipper Snips, and the annual direc- cruising. The material of greatest interest is informa- tory. Even though we have a good database now, main- tion about launching, harbors, anchorages, neat side tained by David Craigie and Dee and Dave Dickmeyer, trips to take, descriptions of the surroundings, weather it is still a lot of work to do the directory. And, it is notes, how crowded the places are, and so forth. Read- taking too much time for me to continue to do both the ers want to read about the highlights of your cruise, of newsletter and the directory. We really need volunteers course, but not about all the details of the great time to take over the production of the directory, and of the you had. If you follow these suggestions, we will be mailing labels for Clipper Snips and membership re- able to publish more articles in each issue. As an ex- newals. If you understand this next sentence, you are ample, I did some cutting of the cruising articles in this qualified, and we need you. The directory requires issue in order to get them all in (with apologies to the taking the Microsoft Works file, converting it to Micro- authors who didn t know I was going to do this). soft Excel, and then using the mail merge feature of Charts are a nice accompaniment to articles, but most Microsoft Word to format the directory pages. It is not do not reproduce well. The best charts are simple ones hard, but does take some time and some hand-tweaking in black and white, as sent in with the Chesapeake arti- to clean up and reduce the page count. If the resulting cle by Guy Hubbard. Below is an example of a photo Word files are sent to me, I will take care of getting the from a digital camera. directory printed, along with the Winter/Spring Clipper

Editor s Flicka Eventide waiting for Spring.

Clipper Snips Page 39 Spring 2000

Trailer/Sailors Association New Membership Application Form

*You must remit the appropriate dues with this application (see below) Date ____/____/2000 Captain______Spouse______Crew______Postal Address______Phone: (Home)(______)______-______(Business)(______)______-______E-mail Address:______@______Make and Length of Boat ______Name of Boat ______Home port______Mail to: Don Ziliox 1340 Elmdale N.E. Grand Rapids, MI 49505

*Dues Schedule

Date first joined Initial Dues Amount (Due Directory In- Issues of Clipper Snips In- with Application) cluded cluded Nov 1-Feb 28 $20 ($24 Can) Yes Fall, Spring, Summer, Fall Mar 1-June 30 $15 ($18 Can) Yes Spring, Summer, Fall July 1-Oct 31 $10 ($12 Can) Yes (if available) Summer, Fall

Please note: Memberships Expire December 15th each year. New members can extend their member- ships through next year by paying the annual dues after receiving their dues statements at the beginning of September. Members will receive the year's publications as they come out. In September, annual dues will be charged to old members and to new members who joined before September 1. Boat/U.S. dues are discounted to members of the Trailer/Sailors Association by 50%: from $17.00 to $8.50. New members are told how to apply.

Clipper Snips Page 40 Spring 2000