Keys Sea Heritage Journal

VOL. 25 NO. 2 WINTER 2014/15 USS SHARK

OFFICIAL QUARTERLY PUBLICATION OF THE MARITIME HISTORICAL SOCIETY The

Reprinted from the “Putnam’s Monthly.” Vol. VII, December 1856, No. XLVIII. “The Florida Keys.”

The labors of an insignificant insect have dotted the sea, around the southernmost portion of our republic, with coral islands, or keys, of all dimensions, from the extended area of , to a minute clump of mangroves, hardly larger than an ordinary-sized breakfast table. But these islands are indebted to the coral insect for their first foundation only. As soon as they reach the surface, the industrious architects cease their labors, and all further growth is dependent on other causes. These are many and various. A plank, torn from a wreck, and tossed about by the winds and waves for many days, may at last Key West wreckers at work. Photo credit: Monroe County Library. rest upon the surface of the coral. Sheltered from the waves by this quite an extent of ground has risen seed, borne by the bird from some slight barrier, the insects spread a like magic in the very midst of the more favored spot, drops upon the broad flat rock under its lee, which ocean. luxuriant soil, thirsting to receive soon becomes covered with sand This soil, teeming with the it, springs up, blossoms, and bears and earth, thus forming the first elements of fertility, does not long fruit. Other birds rest in the branches rudiments of a soil. This spreads remain barren and useless. Perhaps of the newly-born tree, and scatter and elevates itself—the first piece some sea-bird, wearied with its the seeds of other and different of wreck, perhaps, catches another, protracted flight over the stormy plants. Protected still more from and a larger bulwark against the waters, may pause for an instant violence of the waves is erected, till on this welcome resting-place. A (Continued on page 3) SocietyNews by Tom Hambright The Monroe County History could see the large fish which we collection over the years has have seen what they call hog fish and collected a number of original another kind they call sharks and we letters. Some are part of a large arrived in Key West, Florida on the collection and tell a story, some 4 of February at 8 o’clock morning are single or a few that are and when we came here to this place not connected to a large story. we found it awful hot and plenty Following is one of these orphan of mosquiters but still not as many letters from a military man in Key as we have now and so we pitched West in 1862. tents and camped there until the 10 The Florida Keys Sea Heritage Mr. Richard M. J. Long of March then our Company moved Journal is published quarterly. Hanoverville, Pa in Fort Taylor and here. We are Subscription is available through Northampton County drilling artillery and infantry further membership. Copyright 2015 by Penn you stated in your letter that you the Key West Maritime Historical think I would not get many sleigh Society of the Florida Keys, Inc. Key West, Florida rides – I did barely see any snow. The art on the masthead, the USS May the 12 1862 We had a little snow in Virginia the Shark, was drawn by Bill Muir. deepest was 1 inch deep and we had Friend Richard and there but here they never seen Editor: Tom Hambright no snow yet their water was never I will take the opportunity to froze yet that is what their citizens write a few lines to you and let you says and I believe it further I let you Letters and articles are welcome. know that we are well at present know that we received the news that Please write to: Editor, Florida Keys time and hoping you all the same Yorktown is taken and New Orleans Sea Heritage Journal, KWMHS, further I received your letter on the is taken to and when we received P.O. Box 695, Key West, FL march sometime and I was very the news from New Orleans all the 33041 or visit our web site glad to hear from you and further vessels was trimmed with 60 or 70 Keywestmaritime.org. I let you know that We went to different flags I tell you it looked the island of Key West, Florida. nice and we fired 35 cannons off if Key West Maritime We left in Virginia on the 22 of that fighting keeps on that way and Historical Society January 1862 and marched to after that we win every battle it will soon Board of Directors Alexandra Railroad. There we took be settled. the cars to Alexandra. It is a town We expect to be home until the President: Corey Malcom where Elsworth was shot and there 4 of July. The other night we was Vice President: Bill Verge we took a steamship to Washington fishing with the net and made three Secretary: Andrea Comstock and there we took the cars again hauls which we had enough for the Treasurer: Tom Hambright and arrived in Annapolis State of whole company so I must come to Maryland on the 24 of January and a close excuse my bad writing for it George Craig there we took the large steamboat was done in a hurry. Don’t forget to J. Gregory Griffin Oriental on the 27 January and write and direct to Bill Grosscup started at 4 o’clock in the afternoon Key West Florida Mary Haffenreffer and came to forts Monroe the next Company F47 P.V. Sheri Lohr evening there we anchored until the Care of Capt H. S. Harte Bruce Neff next morning then we started with I remain your Friend Wendy Tucker the fair wind again and I wish you Ruben Kein John Viele Robert J. Wolz New Members David Harrison Wright Michael de Bettencourt, Key West; Green, Key West; Lynn Schwubert, Thomas Callahan, Key West; Marathon; Victoria Scudder, Key Marie Geranian, Key West; Shelly West.

2 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15 (Florida Keys from page 1) gives place to a fresh and lively or single trees. The lagoons in the green. islands are very abundant in such disturbing influences, by the barrier This beautiful green meadow— localities. These are strictly ponds; it has itself provided, the land for such from a distance it for they scarcely deserve the name grows, like the vegetation upon it; appears—loses much of its charm of lakes. The water finds its way until miles upon miles of territory as we approach, and possesses none into them by subterranean channels. are rescued from the empire of at all should we be rash enough to Some are as salt as the ocean, while the sea. Such is a brief and simple trust ourselves upon it. The mingled the brackish water of others proves sketch of the most usual method of mass of pulverized coral, sand, and that the rain has a large share in their formation, wherever the coral insect shells, that forms the soil, is not only composition. But the term lagoon is builds. Around the coast of Florida, extremely soft and treacherous, but often more broadly applied. Many however, most of such changes took the young mangroves, spreading keys contain large interior spaces place many hundreds of years ago, out into a chain of arches, trip up filled with water, which enters and now, while some keys increase the unwary foot in a moment. Any from the ocean outside, through a in extent, others diminish. The cause thought of running over such a narrower or wider channel, as the of this lies in the numerous currents, surface would be rash, in the broad case may be. If these are so extensive which the tides, in their intricate light of day, but at night would as to deserve consideration, they are windings through so many islands, become simply ridiculous. On a honored with the name of sounds, unavoidably excite. Thus a portion fair average, the fugitive and his but, if small and unimportant, are of one key may be slowly and pursuer, too, would have the task, merged under the general term, steadily washed away. The particles not only of picking their way, but lagoon. of earth, however, are not lost, but of picking up themselves at every The shore of the keys varies serve to swell its more fortunate other step. However, as the level much. On one side it is generally neighbor, which, in its turn, may of the mud, which is almost as rocky—the grass and soil ceasing at be robbed at some part, to benefit uniform as the water around it, a line that denotes the high-water- a third. gradually rises, a short grass springs mark. When the tide recedes, a It is both instructive and amusing up, and the earth dries and hardens. greater or less space of the rock is to observe the gradual increase of The mangrove arches, like many left bare, amounting, sometimes, to some—how they stretch out long nobler structures, fall into ruin, as several hundred feet. The other side narrow points like arms, striving to the plants increase in height, till the is either covered with mangroves, pull more land from the bottom of scene assumes the appearance of whose arched and interlaced the ocean. At first we see nothing a. grassy level, dotted thickly with stems grow far into the water, and but a long bank, which is almost mangrove bushes, seldom more form a dark green fringe, entirely hidden by the sea at high-tide, and than six or seven feet high. concealing the land or it is a bank of reveals itself as a soft mass of mud These changes may all be mud, into which one may sink above and shells, when the waves retire. observed at one spot, as the edges his knees. These two appearances Finally, sometimes at the very of most keys gradually shade off designate the character of the shore, extremity, sometimes in the middle, from their ancient forest-covered whether it grows or wastes away. No a combination of currents heaps up center, to their muddy and daily- key increases in every direction. The a mass above the highest level of the increasing circumference. We numerous currents, set in motion by water. As if some unseen hand had speak of a central forest, for other the tides, while they heap up sand planted them, for no eye beholds and larger trees spring up and unite and shells on one side, endeavor to whence they come, a million points with the mangrove in sheltering the carry away soil from the other. But of mangrove emerge from the interior from the scorching rays of here the rocky foundation of the mud. Perfectly straight, and hardly the sun. keys preserves them. It is only at thicker than a quill, they bear a Indeed, most of the keys are high-tide that the water can sweep fanciful resemblance to the growth covered with a dense growth of the off the earth above, and during the of the human beard. They soon various woods, though, here and comparatively long period through lose that appearance, however, for there, we encounter plains of the which the tide ebbs and again rises, the uniform stem forks and divides most exact level, carpeted with a again, grows and puts forth leaves, short ash-colored grass, and spotted until the whole surface of the mud thinly with low mangrove bushes, (Continued on page 4)

WINTER 2014/15 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 3 (Florida Keys from page 3) boldly presents I itself as it is—an is a sure index to the other. The all its strength is wasted on the iron unmitigated mud-bank. banks are covered with bushes, on surface of the rock. Still it makes an The sounds, to which we have many of which we may see shells, impression even there; for we find just referred, perfectly represent, high in air. They are adventurous the coral worn and honey-combed in miniature, the great oceans and shell-fish who adhered to the plant, in a thousand places, and changed to gulfs of our earth. One, in particular, while it was yet imbedded in the a dark slate-color by the sun and air. about twenty miles northeast from mud, and, as it rose, soared aloft Thus, the increase and diminution Key West, offers every variety with their supporter. We may find of the keys are not in the same ratio; of shore, shoal, and channel. The their parallels elsewhere than in and, perhaps, at some distant day, large key that contains it, and which Florida. Again we have a ghastly the sea may be driven from every rejoices in the sweet name of Sugar- forest of dead trees. Thousands of inlet and channel, and all the keys loaf is almost dissolved out by the white skeleton limbs are twisted become consolidated into one. sea. The entrance is by two creeks or into every imaginable shape. At In the numerous sounds, that cut winding channels, on opposite sides night, especially, when thrown up the interior of many keys, this of the island. The smaller would be into strong relief by the cold light difference of shore is very striking. a treasure, could some enterprising of the moon, they present forms One side may be rocky, up to the Yankee transport it north, as an of horror, numerous enough and limits of the tide, where the ground inexhaustible magazine, from fearful enough to terrify a hundred rises abruptly, and, covered with which to draw unfailing supplies children. We speak thus moderately, short grass, extends back to the edge of superior romantic scenery, at as we doubt whether a larger number of the woods. The few yards thus so many dollars the square yard. could be found on all the keys. left open afford excellent walking- Though the distance, between the The creek, at the other extremity ground for the most delicate foot. outer sea and the sound into which of the sound, is broader, and less We push on, and turn the point. The it pours, is barely half a mile in a winding. Beautiful grassy slopes, aspect of the other shore is hidden straight line, the creek winds for with a few trees scattered here and by the forest, until we reach the the distance of two miles. In some there, to break the monotony of very extremity of the dry land. No places it is several yards wide, in an extended meadow, border its sooner does the knowing eye catch others so narrow, that a boat passes banks. The water, though deep, is a glimpse beyond this curtain, than with difficulty, while its depth varies still so clear, that the shells and sea- all hopes of a pleasant excursion, from three or four feet to as many weed, nay, even the smallest fish if such were ever entertained, are fathoms. Its banks are ornamented swimming along the bottom, may be abruptly disappointed. Perhaps with every charm of Florida scenery. easily perceived. Outside, extensive the shore may be veiled beneath a Here we have tall trees, arching shoals prolong its windings, and thick border of mangroves, whose overhead, in green and whispering show plainly the process of its green leaves touch the water, and domes, until the hot beams of the formation. are clearly reflected in its crystal sun are completely excluded; and Near the former creek, resides depths. What a lovely shore! How our boat floats on, in an atmosphere the Robinson Crusoe of the key— charmingly the dark green of the of the most delicious coolness. We Happy Jack. He was originally a mangroves contrasts with the hear the plash of the water, among sailor, and a member of a certain brilliant mirror that bathes their feet. the million arches of the mangroves band, that meandered over all And they are beautiful to view from that line the banks, echoing and the keys, and lived where and as a distance, or to float by lazily in a reechoing in a continuous murmur. they could. Their names, as least boat. But let the unwary explorer A more sleep-compelling sound of the most distinguished, were endeavor to pass, by wading, as cannot be imagined. The breeze as follows: Jolly Whack, Paddy the writer once did, not, however, outside is somehow caught by the Whack, Red Jim, Lame Bill, and to gratify his curiosity. He will find trees, at the mouth, and a welcome old Gilbert. Whether Paddy and himself not only up to his waist in current of cool air follows our Jolly were brothers, as the similarity water, but knee-deep in a coarse upward progress. We emerge into of their surnames would seem to mud, filled with shells of all sizes. If the open sunlight. The current indicate, remains doubtful, as the the shore be not thus treacherously hurries us on more rapidly, for the history of the family is shrouded fair, it throws aside all disguise, and depth has become less, and one in as deep obscurity as the origin of

4 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15 Key West in 1855 looking from the corner of Front and Simonton Streets. Photo credit: Monroe County Library. the Pyramids. Red Jim was certainly that the winds blew and the waters a thousand storms, resemble the not an Indian, for the Floridians have rose, just when their skill deserted massive columns of some old little in common with their savage them. Three or four scores of such stone temple built for an ancient foes; but, to hazard a conjecture, excursions, and three or four such and forgotten god. The reason is gained his sobriquet from the color of mischances thinned their numbers obvious. The keys themselves are his hair. Lame Bill’s prefix needs no rapidly, till, at length, only Jack essentially things of yesterday— interpretation. Nor is the patriarchal was left. southern plants growing from the title of old Gilbert, or ancient Gilbert, Jack was always disinclined to bottom of the ocean. It would be more obscure. On the whole, Jack’s the world, and Key West, probably, absurd, then, to expect the hoariness appellation seems to us the happiest did not elevate his opinion of of an antediluvian forest, in these of the six. However different their human nature. So he settled newly-born woods. But, like Daniel names, and varying their dispositions, himself permanently on the key Lambert, what they want in height, they all united in a common love. The we have just described, and bent is amply made up in thickness. fragrant goddess of whisky absorbed his energies to trapping deer, and A dense under-wood chokes up the affections of their guileless raising fruit. He is still alive, and almost every passage, composed of hearts. likely to live. His solitude is not every variety of wood in different As whisky is one of those so uncompromising as Robinson stages of growth, from the first articles with which the coral insects, Crusoe’s, for the crowds of tender shoot to the complete tree. unfortunately, have not yet supplied spongers” and fishermen, that Old age and decay have also their the keys, these ardent devotees swarm around all the keys, give representatives in the skeleton- were frequently obliged to resort to him sufficient company, indeed, like dead trees that thrust their the town of Key West, for outward more than he desires. gaunt limbs in our faces at every and visible manifestations of the Now, having disposed of turning. The ground is, in some spirit within them. They necessarily Happy Jack, let us briefly allude places, covered with dead leaves, in went down sober, for the want of to the vegetable kingdom as it others, strewn with masses of rock, liquor sent them; but it was no less exhibits itself on the keys. Here, or hidden beneath a long prickly a matter of course that they should however, we are not to look for grass. return drunk. Skillful sailors as they the grand and the picturesque. No breeze ever finds its way were, and favored by Providence There are no mighty trees, into these deep recesses. The with moderate breezes, and smooth whose ages may be reckoned by hot beams of the sun fall almost seas, oftener than they deserved it, centuries, and whose giant trunks, nevertheless, it sometimes happened, seamed and weather beaten by (Continued on page 6)

WINTER 2014/15 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 5 (Florida Keys from page 5) Nature has bestowed upon the reflection on one unfortunate tree, perpendicularly downward, on red variety a means of propagating for the land is not more barren there a body of stagnant air, which in itself, denied to the black. The larger than on most other places. The keys summer becomes heated to the last trees are continually dropping small are not gardens, by any means. pitch, until the additional caloric twigs into the water, which are Though the pines never equal the radiated from the burning earth, carried away by the tide. They float height of their northern brethren, forces it to rise into a comparatively wherever it please chance to send and would look like bushes beside cooler atmosphere. These solitudes them, till they come to any place so the gigantic pines of California, are not condemned to utter silence. shallow that their lowest extremity still, they are the loftiest wood on Beside the occasional cry of a bird, can reach the bottom. Here they the keys. swarms of mosquitoes and gigantic are firmly anchored, for wherever Then we have the palmetto, flies make the forest vocal with a these “bobs” —so called from the the famous soft wood, used for melody fearful to the traveler’s ear. bobbing motion given them by the the erection of Fort Moultrie, in Indeed, these two pests are found in rise and fall of the waves—once the Revolution, and celebrated such numbers here, that, unless they touch, there they stick fast, and for its power of resisting balls. It feed upon each other, the wonder is take root. Thousands of such twigs rises, a straight, branchless, trunk, how they exist. may be seen “bobbin’ around” the for about twenty or thirty feet, Of the mangrove—the pioneer shores of the keys, ready, wherever and at the top expands into broad of vegetation—there are two they have an opportunity, to plant leaves, something like an enormous varieties—the red and the black. themselves and extend their race. umbrella. Both, like the pine, are a species The black mangrove differs Oak, also, is to be met with, of evergreen, and both, like that very little from the red, except in though for purposes of tanning it tree, need no very fertile soil to the color of its wood; which, as the is not indispensable, as the bark of support them. The red mangrove name denotes, is almost black. Its the red mangrove well supplies its is distinguished by its spreading roots are not arched, like those of place. roots, which run out in long the red variety, but in every other An almost endless list follows, arches, dropping, at intervals, a respect there is a general likeness. of which only a few deserve our perpendicular branch, like a pillar, Neither kind attains to any great notice. The handsome yellow wood, to bear their weight. The trunk rests height—twenty feet is usual, forty, very well adapted for violins, gun- upon these arches, often at some perhaps, the limit. stocks, or any ornamental work, distance from the ground. Near the The mangrove is indisputably is often sent to England, where shore, the foundations of the roots the tree of the keys. It precedes it brings a high price. We have are hidden by the water, which rises, the rest, and is, probably, more only space to briefly mention the at high-tide, almost to the level of abundant than any other. There mahogany madeira, the mastic the main trunk. When the trees are are many small islands, scattered and princewood, the stopper and large, and grow closely together, throughout the channels, between the torch, both black and white. the roots interlace themselves in the the larger keys, which are so thickly The lancewood sometimes occurs most inextricable confusion, and covered with mangroves that the in the middle of the forest. It is form a raised platform on which earth is entirely hidden, and landing excellent for axe-handles, the shafts one may walk without wetting the rendered impossible. From a of carriages, or, indeed, for any feet. The bark is light, and smooth, distance they appear like a regularly purpose in which great strength and the leaf small and thick, without shaped mound of the darkest green, elasticity are required. The pigeon serrations. The salt air, on which rising from the water, and seeming plum bears a small black plum, they live, is, so bound up with their to float upon its surface. The hardly bigger than a cherry, but constitution, that we generally find Floridians call them mangrove keys very sweet. The iron wood, almost small particles of salt crystallized par excellence, as they are made of as firm and hard as iron, has also a upon the upper surface. The wood nothing else. fruit much resembling the pigeon is reddish brown, firm, and heavier The pine comes next. Some plum, though far inferior in flavor. than water. Used as firewood, it keys possess tolerably extensive The bay cedar is a variety of the answers very well, burning slowly, pine barrens, as they are termed, common cedar, but its leaves are but giving an intense heat. though we think the name an unjust fewer and larger. The inner bark is

6 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15 said to possess remarkable medicinal scriptural, bay-tree. The banana, completely buried beneath a pile of virtues. It is intensely astringent, too, and the cocoa-nut help to swell sand, a tall straight shaft rises, and and probably imitates the arnica the number of its gifts to man, expands into a tuft at the summit. montana of the homoeopathists in though, as yet, very few men have Here we find the seed in the shape many of its properties. Whatever taken advantage of its liberality. of shoots, arranged symmetrically these may be, they are almost utterly Sweet potatoes are raised on around the trunk. These fall to the unknown at the north. The wild several keys, wherever a small ground after reaching a certain sapadilla must not be overlooked. settlement of one or two families has stage of development, and serve Its snowy bark, spotted with stains been made. On Matecumbe, a key to propagate the plant; for, like the of the liveliest crimson, appears as near Largo, the Irish potato has been little mangrove “bobs,” wherever if some wounded deer had rubbed planted, and after several seasons, they touch the ground they take root against it, in passing, and left still retains its original qualities and flourish. the date of his passage written in without changing into the sweet. Largo is the only key that can blood. The berry is about the size It is astonishing on what a slender furnish a respectable wild beast. and shape of a walnut, and, like the support these sweet potatoes will Black bears have been seen there, whole tree, emits a milky juice, on flourish. We have often seen a space though they are not very numerous. being cut. Another tree, or rather between two barren rocks entirely On one occasion, when two men bush—for it scarcely deserves a filled by an enormous potato, which landed from a boat to attack a large loftier title—very similar to the seemed to have absorbed all the soil fellow, near the beach, he pursued last, is the seven-year apple, as the near it ; for when taken up the rock them to their boat, compelled them Floridians call it, though why we beneath was left bare. to vacate the premises, and quietly confess ourselves unable to guess; The hemp plant of Florida, took his seat in the stern, while the for its small hard apple punctually sometimes termed sea-soil hemp, discomfited hunters made the best makes it appearance every year. from the preference it seems to of their way ashore by swimming. That hard and heavy wood, the exhibit for marine situations along Deer are found on most of the keys. lignum vitae, though seldom seen the coast, hardly yields to the Although the animals themselves among the keys, occurs on one so celebrated Manilla in those qualities are rarely visible, their footprints plentifully as to bestow its own that constitute its excellence cover almost every spot where the name upon it. But the largest of the —strength and durability. A single soft mud will admit an impression. keys, and the key, too, that furnishes strand has proved able to sustain a They are rather a degenerate breed; the most numerous varieties of weight of six pounds, while a fibre though occasionally a fair specimen wood, indeed, many which are of Manilla hemp breaks under a is encountered. They have a great found nowhere else, is Largo, a long strain of four or five pounds. It is fondness for exploring points and narrow island about seventy miles cultivated on Key West to some peninsulas, and advantage of this northeast from Key West. It is about extent, though the prevailing harmless peculiarity is often taken twenty-five miles in length, and of a ignorance, as to its valuable by the hunter. The raccoon is not breadth diminishing from five miles properties, has, as yet, prevented it so shy; indeed, they are very often to barely three-quarters. The soil is from becoming an extensive article caught alive by an active man, as more fertile than on any other key, of commerce. they will suffer their pursuer to and its productions are consequently The entire height of the plant approach within a few feet. The more abundant and various. A few varies from ten to eighteen feet. tradition of man’s cruelty has scattered live-oak trees grow here, Near the root, long thick leaves evidently never been spread among and the wild tamarind, which, spread out, attaining often a length them. though seldom exceeding forty feet of five feet, with a breadth of ten or Rattlesnakes, moccasins, and in height, is often more than two twelve inches. The fibrous structure water-snakes, are rather too plentiful feet in diameter, affords excellent of these leaves forms the hemp, like for comfort; and land and sea-birds, ship timber. the bark and leaves of our common of all kinds and descriptions, help to Largo is peculiarly adapted for hemp plant, and needs only to make the air populous. the cultivation of tropical fruits. The be treated in the same manner. The numerous channels, that lime, the lemon, the sweet orange, From the center of this cluster, wind in all directions through the the sugar-cane, the large yellow which resembles a palmetto tree, citron, would flourish here like the could we conceive its trunk to be (Continued on page 8)

WINTER 2014/15 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 7 (Florida Keys from page 7)

keys, are generally well supplied with fish, that in number and variety emulate the birds. There is the grunt, very much resembling our common perch, and so called from the peculiar sound it makes, when taken out of the water. A stranger need only catch one, to perceive at once how well-merited is the name. The grouper, the jackfish, the lordly barracouta, and many others, are all abundant, though swarms of sharks, swordfish, and sawfish, do their utmost to thin their numbers. Sharks The edge of a mangrove forest: Photo credit: Monroe County Library. are decidedly too frequent visitors; and as they prefer the deeper All kinds of sea-weed, shells, water at twelve o’clock. A mile channels, through which vessels are and sponges, carpeting the nearer the sea, the time of high- obliged to pass, or where they must bottom of the sea, may be readily tide will have already passed, and anchor, if they design remaining seen through the clear, shallow the ebb commenced; while, a mile any time, the pleasure of bathing water. There are two varieties of higher up, the tide is still rising, becomes alloyed with a slight shade sponge—the false and the true. The the time of high-water has not yet of peril. Still, in reality, there is not true sponge preserves its integrity, come. Thus, were we to draw an much danger, as the sharks, unless when laid out upon the beach to imaginary line of high-tide across they have tasted human blood dry, while its treacherous image, the mouth, we should find this line before, are usually more afraid under similar circumstances, passes to steadily sweep up the channel, of us than we of them—if that be away like the water that moistens from the sea, for about six hours, possible. Young sharks, not more it. Many of the inhabitants of Key and return during the other six. It than a foot long, are found in the West are “spongers,” in a different would not long retain its uniformity, lagoons. sense from the barroom acceptation however, for a thousand shoals, and Throughout the whole extent of the term. Sponges are worth from other impediments, would delay its of the keys, the water seldom thirty-five to forty cents per pound; progress in some places, and hasten exceeds four fathoms in depth, and though an inferior kind brings only it in others. The greatest variety of is ordinarily much less. There are ten cents. Formerly, they were much currents would be formed, which many bays several miles across, less profitable, as twenty-five cents would mutually act and react to whose depth, in no place, is more was esteemed a fair price. Though produce a still greater confusion. We than five feet, and, sometimes, shells occur in millions, yet really may easily imagine how difficult it hardly reaches as many inches. beautiful specimens are not so is to calculate the precise state of Perhaps only in Florida can a readily met with. The best are found the tide at any point, without actual person behold the nearest point of near Caesar’s Creek, which bounds experiment—the only method, in land a mile distant, and yet have the northern point of Key Largo. fact, to be relied on. hardly sufficient water around him We have already alluded to There are many pilots in to drown a child. An extraordinary the intricacy and difficulty of the Key West, who have made this low tide would expose leagues of navigation among the keys. This navigation the study of their lives; what is now hidden by the ocean ; is increased by the irregularity of and yet the journal of their voyages, and a slight elevation of the land, the tides, which resemble those if they kept one, would frequently should some earthquake ever cause of a river, in the varying epochs contain this item, or something such a phenomenon, would join of high-water, at different places. very like it “Ran aground on such a many keys that are now separated For instance, suppose that, about day; got the vessel off: ran aground by a broad sheet of water. half way up an inlet, it is high- again, etc., etc ;” while the smaller

8 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15 craft run ashore with the greatest Key West. on the , or put into Key equanimity, and if the tide be low Key West, their rendezvous, West for assistance on their route. when the accident happens, coolly and the principal settlement on The united values of vessels and wait till it rises and floats them off. the keys, is a well-known town, of cargoes, as computed from the best If the tide is at its highest, the crew between three and four thousand authority, amounted to $2,242,454, are forced to leap overboard, and inhabitants, situated at the western while the salvage was $88,921.87, shove the light vessel off by their extremity of a key bearing the same and the total loss incurred by the own strength. They are used to it, name. The population is composed ship-owners no less than $432,167 however, and seldom grumble. of Americans, English, Spanish, .42. For the last year, the number Many of the vessels that cruise and French, in varying proportions, of vessels, though not the extent of about the keys are wreckers. These with also a large infusion of black, losses, has rather increased: eighty are generally small, fast-sailing brown, and yellow ingredients. A vessels, valued at $2,844,077; schooners, or sloops, that keep a peculiar race, not so well known to salvage, $100,495; and entire loss, vigilant lookout for the various the world in general, is found here. $417,300. This shows, at least, no accidents that are constantly A large portion of the people in Key great diminution every year, in spite occurring on the reef. If the natives, West are vulgarly called Conchs, of the strenuous exertions made with all their skill and experience, these are Bahamian emigrants, by government to place buoys and find it difficult always to preserve who have left the government of light-houses on every dangerous themselves from misfortune, we Great Britain for our own freer spot. But when we consider how may judge how liable are strangers, institutions, and wisely prefer Key mightily our commerce spreads unacquainted with the labyrinthine West to the Bahama islands. They and grows through each succeeding channels of the reefs, to have their gained this peculiar name from year, and remember the vast number voyage interrupted by unseen rocks the circumstance that, during an of vessels launched by the enterprise and shoals. The wreckers--for the insurrection in the Bahamas, the of our citizens, we shall find that name is applied indiscriminately insurgents placed the figure of a the proportion of ships lost, to those to the vessels and their crew— large conch-shell on the flag be that arrive safely at their destined endeavor to unite the practice neath which they fought--a very port, becomes annually less. of Christian charity towards the appropriate emblem, as most of And, in fact, though beacons unfortunate with a laudable and them are fishermen. were erected on every shoal between careful regard to their own interest. Key West is the nest from which Cape Florida and the Tortugas, and Thus, they will not only do their best issue swarms of wreckers, who each dangerous passage accurately to get your ship off, if aground, or to lie in wait at every point, and, as marked out, the wreckers would assist her into port, if she be leaky certain highly respectable birds are still have employment. The or otherwise disabled, but their attracted by the most distant scent frequent calms, after violent winds very worst to wring from you the of blood, assemble with marvelous that excite strong currents in the utmost amount of salvage that your rapidity at the faintest report of ocean, place ships completely at liberality will allow, or a decision a wreck. Indeed, the system of their mercy; and, sometimes, a of the admiralty court compel you wrecking may be said to have built captain beholds his vessel drifting to give. up Key West, and new materially on a shoal, without the power to do This is to be expected—as helps to support it. Almost every anything but foresee his fate. The good Samaritans are not more prominent man on the island either water may be too deep to anchor, numerous in the extreme south is or has been connected with and with a current of two or three than further north, and the wreckers wrecking; and though the profits knots an hour, setting steadily make it a matter of business, not are necessarily uncertain, yet, in towards the bank, all efforts to avert of feeling. Still, their exertions many instances, they are great. his fate would be utterly useless. deserve praise, as they have saved The amount of salvage, in every He must make up his mind to view immense quantities of valuable case, is determined by an admiralty his ship lying helpless on the sand, property —property that without court, established for that purpose, with as much philosophy as he can their assistance, would be now and, in the course of a year, the muster, and wait for the coining of unprofitably stored at the bottom of aggregate swells to a formidable the wreckers, whose eagle eyes he the ocean, instead of being sent to sum. During the year 1854, sixty- may be sure will not long overlook its destination, or sold at auction in four vessels were either wrecked him.

WINTER 2014/15 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 9 HURRICANE AT SEA

(The following article was duration, while the constantly falling endurance. Then, oh how sweet extracted from the “Sailor’s barometer told me there was more rest is! then even death is not too Magazine,” Vol. 33-34 of October coming. At 1 p.m., I knew the brig great a price to pay for it! 1861 by John Viele) was in mid-channel, and that, the In a few moments I was myself Vicissitudes of a Sailors Life wind being northeast, if she was again – frightened, certainly, for I By a Nautical Correspondent of then hove to, she would make a never expected to see another sun the Independent “dead drift” to the southwest, and rise; but no one knew it but myself. not approach the land on either I gave my orders coolly, to keep the “Nat, I believe we are going to side unless through the agency of men pumping whenever there was have a hurricane.” currents. Every sail was taken in and a chance, and walked aft to look at “Why, what makes you think so, bound tightly to the yards. the watch; it was a quarter to 3 p.m. Captain?” Short-handed as we were, I was Creeping up to the weather-side, “Why, look at my journal for the obliged to join the men in their labors, and holding my nose over the rail, last three days; do you note how and with a little coil of spun-yarn on I tried to peep to windward. “Can steadily the barometer has gone my arm, I bound every sail to the it blow any harder than this? was down? With the fine weather we yard which showed the least sign of the question I involuntarily asked have had, it means that mischief is “puffing.” Having made everything aloud. near us; whether we get caught or snug, and nothing more to do, I took I thought I would look at the not remains to be seen.” the liberty of looking about me. The barometer. Creeping to the stairs, I was master. Nat was a sea was rising as if by magic, not the I slid down, almost fearing to do youngster of nineteen, and a long, lazy grand ocean swell of the so. I looked – 28:90! I screwed the passenger – the mate lay in his berth Atlantic, but the short, sharp tumult slide to mark it. The second mate dying of yellow fever – two men out of the Gulf Stream. It seemed, and was bending over the mate, trying of six (my whole crew) were also I believe really was, impossisble for to catch his last words. The poor down with it. The brig was deeply any vessel to ride such a sea as that; man was sending a message to his and badly laden. Weak from a ours did not at all events, for the sea wife, and died in a few moments recent attack of fever myself, I little soon began to load her, and her decks afterwards. Upon deck again; relished a hurricane being added to being full, even with the rail, made it must watch everything. Pumping my trouble. Sea-room was scarce impossible for the men to work at the was now out of the question. The – Double-Headed Shot Keys on one pumps. This state of affairs made it sea was no longer high, but ran side, Florida Reef on the other, with necessary to cut away the bulwarks. like high breakers on a beach, but a sixty-miles channel between Calling the second mate and one man which the terrible wind caught them. The wind for the last three to the break of the poop-deck, I made with giant strength, and dashed days had been southwest, baffling an earing fast around my waist, and down on the brig’s main-deck by and very warm. In the afternoon giving them the end of it, I descended turns at a time. Masses of clouds and evening of Aug. 26th, it struck to the main deck, and watching were rising to windward, which, in suddenly and strongly from my chance dashed out board after spreading to the zenith, would the northwest, with sharp squalls. board with an ax. Three times was burst on us with a roar and a deluge Reduced sail accordingly. At I washed clear over the side into the of water, in rain and spray, enough midnight, made Elbow Key Light water to leeward, and hauled in again to appall the stoutest heart. After [on Cay Sal Bank], and wore ship before I had accomplished my task. they were passed the sun would to the north-northwest – barometer Tired, startled, exhausted nearly to shine out gayly and clearly for a 29:50 at 8 a.m. The morning of the death, I threw myself flat upon the few moments, and I would think, 27th, sighted the Florida shore, and deck and rested. Few, I fancy, know perhaps this is the worst. immediately wore ship to the south- the meaning of the word rest: only So the weary, long hours passed southeast. Brig under close reefed twice in my life have I known it away. I was in truth afraid to look topsail and mainsail, and reefed myself – times of fright, emergency at the barometer again, so I staid foresail. During the forenoon, the and danger, when the strong will upon deck and hoped. At half-past squalls increased in strength and forced the human machine beyond five a cloud arose in the eastern

10 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15 Sand Key Lighthouse. Photo credit:Monroe County Library. quarter – so dark, so opaque, that (for the clamor was so great I could say tear. A heavy cannon ball in my first thought was a whole new only guess what he said,) “My God, passing through the air, sounds like continent had arisen from the sea. we are gone!” tearing new strong cloth. Imagine I jumped down into the cabin and It was now half-past six, and ten thousand cannon balls flying looked at my old friend again; 28: dark. Clinging to the rail, hearing close by your ears, and you have 50 was the news it told me. The the dismal noise of the wind, some idea of the awful clamor of a mate lay dead upon his mattress, and seeing nothing but the lurid hurricane. his lower jaw dropped, and his eyes glare of the water, which was one Nine p.m., a sudden and decided frightfully staring. “Cover that man phosphorescent sheet, we stood lull, the sea suddenly running up up,” I said, and jumped up on deck listening to the gale and waiting for – into long grand swells, and the again. Slowly, majestically that death. That was a time for thinking! brig righting to a great extent. Set vast bank rose as if it would sweep Never was I so spiritualized as the storm-trysail, and sounded the the whole world clear of all that then. Commencing in life at my pumps. Owing to their being full impeded its progress. It burst upon first whipping, (the first thing I can of froth, they gave wet line all their us! All that had passed before was remember,) every incident passed length. Manned them and set to but little in comparison; the poor before me in review; and, strange pumping; kept the other at work. brig seemed as nothing – over, over, to say, the most ludicrous were Took a long look at the barometer over she went, till her yard-arms the most vivid and longest dwelt – 29:00. I felt better. At midnight, were buried six feet in the water, and upon. In the meantime the wind was after taking my turn at the pump, I her lee-side up to hatch-coamings blowing. Who of my readers ever went to the cabin, and laid down on were submerged. The second mate heard the wind blow? I have often the settee, completely exhausted, grasped my arm and yelled in my read of the wind roaring in the most more from extreme nervous tension ear, as nearly as I could distinguish, violent hurricane. Don’t say roar, (Continued on page 12)

WINTER 2014/15 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 11 (Hurricane fron page 11) ship passed us steering southwest, general stampede, and was making with top-gallant sails set. She spoke than from hard labor. I thought of as much noise as the best man of us, and reported that she had carried Mazeppa’s horse – them. I happened to be to leeward of the same sail all the night before. her, and I well remember the comical So much for our vessel being in the “For many a verst, wish passing through my mind, that wrong place. Panting as if his heart would burst, if we were going across the dark Upon examination, I found the The weary steed still staggered on” river together, the distinguished brig was so badly strained, and Poor Nat came out of his room trait of the African race, which she making water so fast, that I should pale as a ghost. “What was that possessed in an eminent degree be obliged to go into Key West awful noise Captain?” “That! why might be left behind. and repair. I laid off and on Sand it was the wind, Nat.” “Well,” Sail was made on the brig Key Light during to night of the th replied Nat, “ I never knew wind immediately. I gave the men 28 and the next morning, put the could make such a noise as that.” directions not to wait to cast off wheel up and went in over the reef, “Nor I either,” said I, “but I know gaskets, but to cut everything. They took a pilot, and in an hour we were it now.” I went to sleep. My last worked as only men will work to anchored off the wharves. thought was, “Where is the brig? Is save their lives, and I could scarcely An old friend of mine met me as she near land? She ought to be in believe my ears when I heard I landed, and asked me to his house, mid channel.” If not, no man could the topsail-sheets come rattling and to make it my home during my tell till morning. home. While they were setting the stay in Key West. Accordingly, as I was in the middle of a happy headsails, I was cutting the stops off soon as I had made arrangements dream of boat-sailing on the the main-sail, and in a short time she for hauling the brig in, and had been Connecticut River, when the was steering off shore under close through the custom house, I repaired second mate jumped down, shook reefed sails, taking whole cataracts to Mr. H ------, and took dinner with me violently by the shoulder, of water over her forcastle. Having him. After dinner Mr. H------said, exclaiming one word, “Land!” and put all the sail on her that she would “Don’t you want a nap, captain?” before I could reply was on deck bear, I had the lead passed forward “Yes,” said I, “I would like a short again. Of course, I was not long – “Forty fathoms, and no bottom.” one.” He showed me to a bedroom, after him. As my head emerged “Well done old girl,” said I, “you are and I was soon under the mosquito from the companionway, I noticed well out of this scrape.” Daylight bar, the sweet trade wind blowing a light on the lee beam, and that the came and found us about three miles softly through the lattice of the water was white as milk. The light I from the reef, on and over which window, and rustling the branches doubted about, but that we were in the sea was breaking horridly. The of the cocoa nut tree in front of the white water was sure, and either on gale was moderating fast; more sail house. I thought, “This is pleasant, the edge of Florida Reef, or inside was made, and we were soon well and quite a contrast to yesterday,” the Double-Headed Shot Keys, and off shore. Now we were greatly and went to sleep. In a few hours, on Salt Key Bank. In either case annoyed by large birds, which, as just as the sun was setting Mr. H --- I must make sail and get to the soon as daylight came, flocked on ------called me to supper, and I got southeast as soon as possible. board of us by dozens, gasping from up and ate it feeling quite refreshed. The crew were all on the thirst and exhaustion . If picked up This is my version of the story; but weather side of the poopdeck, and thrown overboard, they would Mr. H------said that he called me each one exclaiming to the other, immediately fly back and dash down to supper, and my answer was, “Let “We are ashore!” and “Where’s anywhere about decks, and fight us me alone, I don’t wish for any;” that the captain?” It was very dark, if we attempted to move them. They I slept all night; that he got the same and still blowing a heavy gale, were smart birds, without doubt, but answer at breakfast, the same at and the sea running very high, and the hurricane had been a little too dinner, and that it was supper-time giving indications of breaking, much for them. At six a.m., buried the next day when he was able to get and I had no doubt but the brig’s the mate. The single pump had me up. But I would not believe him, time had come, and probably ours been contantly going from the time and I have not been able to realize also. Working my way forward, the gale moderated, and it was still yet that I did not get up the first time I came in contact with the black kept going. At noon, the weather he called me. At all events, I had a stewardess – she had joined in the moderated to a pleasant breeze; a good sleep.

12 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15 Fishing Among the Florida Keys From the “Illustrated Magazine of Sport Travel Adventure and Country Life.” Edited by Caspar Whitney. February 1904. by William C. Harris. The exodus of angling tourists to southern waters, particularly to those of Florida, does not occur until about the middle of January; the few knowing ones, however, who annually go to that section do so much earlier, or, if restricted in time or pocket, defer their visit until April and remain, A catch made from the houseboat Evergaldes in the 19320s. Photo credit: as a rule, during the month Monroe County Library. of May. They have found that in the months of October and Commencing at the first-named when the favorite of one of the November and in those of the point, I have visited and fished voyagers was served after being early spring the best results for twenty-nine bars and channel- cooked by a different method the rod will be the rule and the ways in a cruise to Key West than usual. climatic conditions more propitious covering sixteen days, and at It may be of interest to many for enjoyment. I have never found all of them, with an average of anglers to know the names the temperature oppressive three rods on duty, no failure and edible quality of the fish during these months even in was made in scoring at least caught, as well as the methods, Southern Florida, or on the coast fifty to one hundred fish in a tackle and lines in use for their of Texas, or anywhere along the morning’s fishing of two hours’ capture. We fished twice daily, Gulf from Key West to the Rio length, and a similar score in the forenoon for a dinner supply Grande. In fact, nearly every the afternoon’s fishing of the and in the afternoon for the day a refreshing southeast trade same duration. next morning’s meal. The yacht wind sets in early in the morning No tarpon fishing was was usually anchored under the and does not die out until twilight, followed and only two tides on lee of a key, with the feeding- with the resultant lessening of the the entire cruise were allotted to grounds of the fish within a mile temperature of the night. bonefish, the warrior, so called, or less of our anchorage. The In an experience covering of the shallow bars. Most of the tackle, of which there were all the winters of nearly a third fish that were taken and cooked kinds on board, usually taken of a century, the heat was not were those known as panfish, in each of the fishing-skiffs was oppressive except infrequently averaging about a pound in a tarpon rod, natural bamboo and only then when a land weight, although five and six or Japanese cane, a fifteen or breeze prevailed, which seldom pounders were frequently caught eighteen thread Hall line, no does at points or, the coast and immediately returned to the leader and all sizes of sinkers where the best fishing is found. water. and hooks, the latter running From Ponce Park, one hundred So great was the variety from No. 1 to 10 of Harrison, and twenty-five miles south and quantity taken that the Sproat make; a lighter rod of of Jacksonville, to Key West larder was filled twice every similar bamboo, No. 6 Hall line there is hardly a mile of water day with fresh food, and at no and no leader. These constituted, that is not fruitful to the rod, consecutive meal was served with the addition of free-running unskillful as its handler may be. the same species, except rarely, (Continued on page 14)

WINTER 2014/15 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 13 (Fish from page 13) doubtless the best fishing-ground in The most universal and popular reels of various sizes and makes, America for salt-water fish. bait in South Florida waters is the daily outfit. Some idea may be had of the the crawfish, not the tiny one of Light tackle would be abundance of all species when it is the fresh-water streams, but the ineffective in waters where the stated that three rods in my presence huge crustacean of the Keys; the quarry might be from a half boated on April 7th of last year at shell is removed and the flesh pound to a hundred or more in Bahia Honda, with single hooks, sliced in sizes suitable for bait; weight. In fact, when fishing and two hundred and fifty-two fish in unfortunately they can seldom, if catching grunts of a pound as about three hours and forty minutes. ever, be found in sufficient numbers fast as the hooks could be baited Of these there were one hundred for the purpose north of Miami on and the lines cast, a huge jewfish and thirty grunts, all of which, with . When prawns (large or a sleepy sawfish, weighing many of the other species, were shrimp) can be had, they prove to several hundred pounds, would returned to the water, the fishermen be very seductive to all species of not infrequently seize the bait, only retaining for food a pompano, fish. Mullet, the meat of the Conch or, still more likely, a big shark a porkfish, a Spanish mackerel and ; cut pieces of any kind of fish; of similar size would either take two mangrove snappers. This grand clams; fiddler crabs, especially your bait or seize a smaller fish score in so limited a time could only for sheep’s head; hermit or soldier that had previously taken it. At or be made with the assistance of two crab for bonefish; live minnows near Indian Key, it was a frequent boatmen, one in each skiff, who for sea trout and many other fish, contest as to which would be the baited the hooks, unhooked the fish particularly for barracuda and most agile, the rush of a shark and then immediately returned them tarpon, are all in general use, the at a hooked fish, or the muscles to the water. live minnow, I think, not to the of the fisherman who hauled it So varied is the coloration of extent that it should be. Artificial in, hand over hand. On several the groupers that no indisputable lures are not held in high esteem. occasions when a hundred or recognition of species could be The grunts, the Margate fishes, more were hooked, more than obtained from a specific description the sailors’ choice and porkfish half of them were captured by of the color, however minute it are all of one family, technically sharks before the smaller quarry might be of each fish, for I have known as the “Roncos or Grunts,” could be boated. found extreme variations in the same of which there are about fifty- The fish especially esteemed for species. It is possible, however, that five species in American waters. the table were pompano, Spanish the following notes may aid in the Several of them are found in the mackerel, mangrove snappers, differentiation of them Pacific Ocean in shallow water, yellow-tails, porgies, Margate The rock-hind grouper is of but the pigfish, quite numerous fish, trigger-fish, and after passing olive gray color, mottled with dark at times in Hampton Roads, , about fifteen miles clouds, with a number of irregular south of Miami, which is three whitish blotches all over its body. EDUCATION PROGRAM hundred and sixty-six miles below The Nassau grouper is of pale olive SPONSORS $100 OR MORE Jacksonville, we never failed to gray with four irregular transverse LINDA & LAWRENCE ABELE catch a daily table supply of these bars of dark brown on its sides; TOM & KITTY CLEMENTS PRUDENCE CHURCHILL & LAWRENCE PLUMMER fish, and it was a choice menu from the red grouper is one of the most BETTY L. DESBIENS BUD DRETTMANN which to select a boiled, baked, beautiful of the family, resembling JOHN & BEATRICE DUKE SHIRLEY FREEMAN & HARVEY SERVER broiled or fried appetizer. somewhat in coloration the Nassau CELESTE ERICKSON DR. ELIAS GERTH In addition to the above species, fish, but the warm browns on its MARY HAFFENREFFER TOM & LYNDA HAMBRIGHT many others were taken daily; for sides, according to some authorities, HARRIGAN FOUNDATIONS, INC. JOHN H. JONES there are about six hundred varieties are richer in tone with a more LAURA LYNNE KENNEDY EDWARD B. KNIGHT of fish in Florida, a majority of mellow diffusion of tints. TOM KNOWLES Many anglers prefer a boiled or TOM & BARBARA MARMION which are caught in the waters DR. WILLIAM R. PLOSS baked grouper to any other table LARRY & GRETCHEN RACHLIN extending from Miami to Key West, JUAN L. RIERA fish, except, perhaps, the pompano, JUDITH & JAMES ROBERTS about one hundred and fifty miles, SOUTHERNMOST HOTEL IN THE USA of which it is asserted that when ED SWIFT and the lower half of Biscayne KIMBERLY & GARY WALWER Bay. The section covering Indian eaten frequently the flesh palls upon ROBERT J. WOLZ Key and Bahia Honda Harbor is the palate.

14 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15 Virginia, and occasionally caught called, and the yellow bass are the by line fishermen along the New most striking exemplars of these York and New Jersey coasts, and land-locked or non-migratory fresh- BUSINESS MEMBERS less frequently as far north as water fish even when a free run is ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY Massachusetts, is the only northern before them to salt water. Included GENEALOGY CENTER 900 LIBRARY PLAZA representative of the grunt family, in this numerous family is the FORT WAYNE, IN 46802 260-421-1223 the other species living in warm striped bass and the sea bass, with COASTAL SAILING ADVENTURE, INC. 28555 JOLLY ROGER DRIVE seas. The most distinguishing mark both of which the fishermen of the , FL 33042-0839 295-8844 on the common grunts is a series of northern Atlantic coast are familiar, CONCH TOUR TRAINS, INC. 601 DUVAL ST. narrow, irregular lines on the head, but when we remember that with KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-4142 and sometimes on other parts of the these comparatively small but DR. FRED COVAN 1901 FOGARTY AVE. SUITE 2 body, of different colors—hence interesting game fishes of the north KEY WEST, FL 33040 305-294-7522 the name of yellow grunt, white is associated the big jewfish of the DEWOLF AND WOOD ANTIQUARIANS ON THE GREEN grunt, black grunt, etc, They are Atlantic and Pacific coasts, growing P.O. BOX 425 not a choice table fish and they up to five hundred pounds, and that ALFRED, MAINE 04002 207-490-5572 FRIENDS OF ISLAMORADA AREA STATE PARKS were not cooked on the yacht, at any moment either a pigmy or a P.O. BOX 236 as the earthy flavor of their flesh leviathan may seize the bait of a ISLAMORADA, FL 33036 made them as distasteful as that Key fisherman, he cannot be justly DR. ELIAS GERTH 2505 FLAGLER AVE. of the black bass often is when ostracized by the craft for the use of KEY WEST, FL 33040 305-295-6790 taken from a river after a freshet heavy tackle in catching ordinary HISTORIC FLORIDA KEYS FOUNDATION 510 GREENE STREET which washes the soft soil from panfish. KEY WEST, FL 33040 the bottom and banks. The only fishes of the sea bass HISTORICAL PRESERVATION SOCIETY OF THE UPPER KEYS, INC. The snapper family, scientifically family listed on the schedule P.O. BOX 2200 known “Pagrus or Snappers,” is of scores above given are the KEY LARGO, FL 33037 KEY WEST ENGINE SERVICE, INC. a numerous me in the waters of jewfishes and the groupers, both P.O. BOX 2521 Florida. They are ill fierce fighters of which are frequently caught, KEY WEST, FL 33045 KEY WEST TENNIS and when hooked in shallow water the latter particularly. There are 1305 REYNOLDS STREET near the banks, are very difficult to several species of them, which KEY WEST , FL 33040 561-445-7805 KEY WEST WOOD WORKS restrain from entangling the line in are known to the Key fishermen 6810 FRONT STREET the roots of the mangrove trees. as the rock-hind, Nassau grouper, KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-1811 MEL FISHER MARITIME HERITAGE SOCIETY The gray or mangrove snapper is red grouper, black grouper and 200 GREENE ST. the strongest and most game of any the” gag” and “scamp” groupers. KEY WEST, FL 33040 294-2633 OLD TOWN TROLLEY southern fish of its size, which may About a dozen species in all are 6631 MALONEY AVENUE reach eighteen, but the average is found along the Florida coast, KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-6688 two pounds. but those named are most FOUNDATION P.O. BOX 500130 The pompano family includes frequently taken by hook-and- MARATHON, FL 33050 not less than two hundred different line fishermen, and some of them, RIERA TOURS P.O. BOX 522026 species, nearly all of which are known to the layman as simply” MIAMI, FL 33152 305-446-2712 [email protected] good edible fish, not excluding groupers,” reach a weight of A.R. SAVAGE & SONS, INC. the dry and bony cavalle which the fifty pounds. The jewfish, as 701 HARBOUR POST DRIVE Conchs of Key West consider one stated, which is also classified TAMPA, FL 33602 813-247-4550 SEASTORY PRESS of the best for the table. as a grouper, reaches a weight of 305 WHITEHEAD STREET #1 KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-5762 There are in all more than more than a quarter of a ton, but [email protected] four hundred species of the sea to the ordinary fisherman it is a SOUTHERNMOST HOTEL IN THE USA 1319 DUVAL STREET bass family, some of which, jewfish or Warsaw and he knows KEY WEST, FL 33040 296-6577 notwithstanding their technical it by no other name. The groupers ST. LOUIS AUTOMATIC SPRINKLER CO. 3928 CLAYTON AVE. name and classification, have been as a class may be recognized by ST. LOUIS, MO 63110 314-533-7710 born and thrive in fresh waters, one the apparent absence of scales, DONALD E. YATES, P.A. LAW OFFICE 611 EATON STREET or more showing no inclination to which are often embedded in the KEY WEST, FL 33040. 305-296-2261 visit the salt estuaries or the sea. flesh; largemouth; gill cover with The white bass or fresh-water two strong spines, and their large striped bass, as it is sometimes front teeth.

WINTER 2014/15 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - 15 Map of the western part of Key West by the Army Corps of Engineers in September 1861. Photo credit: Monroe County Library. Key West Maritime Historical Society NONPROFIT ORG. P.O. Box 695 U.S. POSTAGE Key West, FL 33041 PAID KEY WEST, FL PERMIT NO. 30

16 - FLORIDA KEYS SEA HERITAGE JOURNAL - WINTER 2014/15