International Journal of Research. ISSN NO:2236-6124

CULTURAL AND FOOD HABITS OF WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO CULINARY TRADITION – A CASE STUDY

Author R,Ramesh, Research Scholar, Department of Tourism and Hospitality Management, Madurai Kamaraj University, Madurai. E-mail: [email protected] Abstract From earliest times, man like every other species on the planet has interacted with nature according to one overriding imperative: survival. For a very long time, this imperative was based not only on the need to protect himself from what, at times, were highly adverse environmental conditions, but above all, on his ability to win the challenge of eating or being eaten. Continuously exposed to the threat of becoming food themselves, our ancestors developed an increasingly sophisticated approach to nature, long before the advent of agriculture approximately 15,000 years ago. The major phases in this process are well known. In the Paleolithic Age, man had already discovered and begun to use fire. During the same period, he began to invent numerous tools first in stone and later in metal for hunting, fishing, defense and building shelter. Whether gathering fruit from a tree or killing his prey, man’s relationship with the environment around him has always been based on transforming it. As mentioned, the discovery of fire marked a major step in man’s ability to manipulate nature. Used alternately for heat, light, protection from wild beasts, send messages and dry clothing, fire made possible progressive cultural developments that were enormously important, especially in terms of diet. For Levi Strauss, cooking food using fire is “the invention which made human beings human”. Before learning about cooking, food (and especially meat) was eaten raw, spoiled or rotten. The use of fire brought about a decisive change. Cooking symbolically marks a transition from nature to culture, and also from nature to society, given that while raw is natural in origin, cooked implies a step that is both cultural and social. This proposed study is an attempt of study the cultural and food habits of Chettinad with special reference to culinary tradition. Key Words: Cultural And Food Habits, Chettinad , Culinary Tradition.

1. Introduction Rice is the king of grains in this area. No meal is possible without its making an appearance in one form or the other. Grain and split peas form the core of the diet. The Chettiyar community, of Chettinad, 250 miles south of , have the most interesting chicken dishes, though fish and meat also form a part of their eating habits. The reflects the lifestyles of the Nattukotai Chettiars who come from one of the driest regions of South , and belong to the most peripatetic of trading communities, merchant bankers who roamed through the countries of South East Asia, living frugally, but making enormous fortunes. Their cuisine, on the one hand, is the main branch of South that specializes in the preparation of non-vegetarian food, chicken, meat and fish, all of which have a part to play in a meal and are served sometimes in a separate , hot and darkly pungent with freshly ground masalas and topped with a boiled egg that is somehow considered essential for a proper meal. At the same time, there are any number of sun-dried and salted vegetables that are stored by the Chettiar housewives who make use of every seed, fruit or legume that grows in the countryside. The Chettinad cuisine is salient spices like red chillies, pepper, onions and coriander are seasoned to

Volume VIII, Issue I, January/2019 Page No:1393 International Journal of Research. ISSN NO:2236-6124

subtle excellence, so that the vegetable or meat is not overpowered but looks a well-blended flavour inviting one succulent serving followed by a few others.

2. Objectives of the study  To study the general accountability of cuisine of India as well as .  To understand the cuisine of Chettinad.  To know the food culture of Chettinad and features of Chettinad cuisine.

3. Cuisine of India Indian cuisine consists of a wide variety of regional native to India. Due to the range of diversity in soil type, climate and occupations, these cuisines vary from each other and use locally available spices, herbs, vegetables, and fruits. Indian food is also heavily influenced by religious and cultural choices. The development of these cuisines has been shaped by Hindu and Jain beliefs, particularly in which is a common dietary trend in Indian society. There was also Islamic influence from the years of Mughal and Delhi Sultanate rule, and Persian interactions on North Indian and Deccan cuisine. Indian cuisine has been and is still evolving, as a result of the nation’s cultural interactions with other societies. Historical incidents such as foreign invasions, trade relations and colonialism have also played an important role in introducing certain food types and eating habits to the country. For instance, potato, a staple of North Indian diet was brought to India by the Portuguese. Indian cuisine has also shaped the history of international relations whit the spice trade between India and Europe is often cited by historians as the primary catalyst for Europe’s Age of Discovery. It has also influenced other cuisines across the world, especially those from South east Asia and the British Isles. Staple foods of Indian cuisine include Jowar, rice, wheat, and a variety of , especially masoor, toor, urad and moong. Lentils may be used whole or split. Split lentils or , are used extensively. Some pulses, such as channa, or kidney beans, lobiya are very common, especially in the northern regions. Many Indian dishes of different regions are cooked in different oil mediums. Peanut oil is used in Andhra and Maharastra regions. Mustard oil is more commonly used in north and northeastern part of india. oil is used widely along the western coast, especially in . While gingerly oil is common in the south as it imparts a fragrant nutty aroma to food. In recent decades, sunflower and soybean oils have become popular across India. Hydrogenated vegetable oil, known as Vanaspati , is another popular cooking medium. Desi ghee, is used frequently, though less than in the past.

4. Cuisine of Tamil Nadu Tamil Nadu is noted for its deep belief that serving food to others is a service to humanity, as is common in many regions of India. The region has a rich cuisine involving both traditional non- vegetarian and vegetarian dishes. Tamil food is characterised by its use of rice, legumes, and lentils, along with distinct aromas and flavours achieved by the blending of spices such as mustard, leaves, , coriander, , , , , , cardamom, , nutmeg, coconut and rose water. The traditional way of eating a meal involves being seated on the floor, having the food served on a plantain leaf, and using the right hand to eat. After the meal the plantain leaf is discarded but becomes food for free-ranging cattle and goats. A meal consists of rice with other typical Tamil dishes on a plantain leaf. A typical Tamilian would eat on a plantain leaf as it is believed to give a different flavour and taste to food. Also growing in popularity are stainless steel trays, plates with a selection of

Volume VIII, Issue I, January/2019 Page No:1394 International Journal of Research. ISSN NO:2236-6124

different dishes in small bowls. Tamil food is characterized by , which is a light food taken for breakfast or dinner, and meals which are usually taken during lunch. The word "curry" is derived from the Tamil kari, meaning something similar to "sauce". The southern regions such as Tirunelveli, Madurai, Paramakudi, , and Chettinad,Kongu Nadu are noted for their spicy non-vegetarian dishes. , , and are some of the popular dishes that are eaten with and . Fish and other seafoods are also very popular, because the state is located on the coast. Chicken and goat meat are the predominantly consumed meats in Tamil Nadu. Many Tamilians are vegetarian, however, and the typical meal is heavily dependent on rice, vegetables and preparations such as and sambar. There are further variations of Tamil vegetarian dishes. They have influenced Kerala as well in their Kootu, Arachi vitta sambhar and molagootals. As mentioned above, the Chettinad variety of food uses lots of strong spices, such as pepper, garlic, seeds and onions. Tamil food tends to be spicy compared to other parts of India so there is a tradition of finishing the meal with dahi (yogurt) is considered a soothing end to the meal. Notably, Tamil Brahmin cuisine, the food of the Iyers and Iyengar community, is characterized by slightly different meal times and meal structures compared to other communities within the state. Historically vegetarian, the cuisine is renowned for its milder flavor and avoidance of onion and garlic. After a light morning meal of filter and different varieties of porridges, the main meal of the day, lunch/brunch is usually at 11 am and typically follows a two-three course meal structure. Steamed rice is the main dish, and is always accompanied by a seasonally steamed/sauteed vegetable, and two or three types of tamarind stews, the most popular being sambhar and rasam. The meal typically ends with thair sadham (rice with yogurt), usually served with pickled mangoes or lemons. Tiffin is the second meal of the day and features several breakfast favorites such as idli, , , dosa varieties, and is usually accompanied by chai. Dinner is the simplest meal of the day, typically involving leftovers from either lunch or tiffin. Fresh seasonal fruit consumed in the state include bananas, papaya, honeydew and canteloupe melons, jackfruit, , apples, kasturi oranges, pomegranates, and nongu.

5. Cuisine of Chettinad Chettinad cuisine is the cuisine of a community called the Nattukotai Chettiars, or as they call themselves, from the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu state in . Chettinad cuisine is perhaps the most renowned fare in the Tamil Nadu repertoire. It uses a variety of spices and the dishes are made with fresh ground masalas. Chettiars also use a variety of sun- dried meats and salted vegetables, reflecting the dry environment of the region. Most of the dishes are eaten with rice and rice based accompaniments such as dosais, , , adais and . The Chettiars, through their mercantile contacts with Burma, learnt to prepare a type of rice pudding made with sticky red rice. A non-vegetarian dish sample tray in Chettinad Hotel Chettinad cuisine offers a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Some of the popular vegetarian dishes include , paniyaram, vellai paniyaram, karuppatti paniyaram, paal paniyaram, kuzhi paniyaram, kozhakattai, masala paniyaram, adikoozh, kandharappam, seeyam, masala seeyam, kavuni arisi and athirasam. In Chettinad food, major spices used include anasipoo (star aniseed), kalpasi (a lichen), puli (tamarind), milagai (chillies), sombu (fennel seed), pattai (cinnamon), lavangam (), , karu milagu (peppercorn), jeeragam (cumin seeds), and venthayam ().

Volume VIII, Issue I, January/2019 Page No:1395 International Journal of Research. ISSN NO:2236-6124

6. Historical influences The Chettiars have traditionally been vegetarians. Their feasts at lifestyle ritual functions remain vegetarian. But trade once had them criss-crossing the southern reaches of peninsular India and absorbing non-vegetarian influences from the Malabar Coast, where Christians of the Orthodoxy of West Asia and Muslims lived in large numbers and Hindus too tended to non-vegetarianism. Further non-vegetarian influences became entrenched in Chettiar food habits from the late 18th Century after they established businesses in Ceylon, Burma, the Dutch East Indies, French Indo- China and what is now and Singapore. So did non-vegetarian fare from other parts of India through which they traveled en route to their overseas businesses. One is lucky to eat like a Chettiar, they say in South India. Chettiars say it themselves. They say it because a Chettiar table is a groaning board but also because the cuisine is uncommonly subtle and aromatic, a heritage of Chettiar participation in the centuries-old spice trade, the global import and export of pungent seeds and fruits and barks from places like Cochin and Penang, the Banda Islands, Arab ports in the Straits of Hormuz. To the coconut and rice and legumes that are staples of South Indian cooking they added Tellicherry pepper, Ceylon cardamom, Indonesian nutmeg, Madagascar cloves and blue ginger, or galangal, from Laos and Vietnam. In places like Penang, in what is now Malaysia, the Chettiars developed a liking for the sweet-sour piquancy of Straits Chinese cooking, In Saigon, they adapted their cuisine to absorb the herbs that perfume Vietnamese food. In Buddhist Ceylon, they relaxed their dietary prohibitions typical of orthodox Hindus and came to enjoy meat. Thus, the Chettinad region a semi-arid zone comprising scores of villages, sleepy and agrarian, studded with important ancient temples yet far from major commercial centers became an unlikely locus of internationalized tastes.

7. Food culture of Chettinad Celebrated across the country, Tamil Nadu boasts of a vibrant variety of delicacies that simmer in its kitchens. Ranging from simple pappads, upmas and to mouth-watering , idlis, uthapams and spicy , their cuisine is unforgettable.And when you progress a little into its hinterlands and get to sample the dishes from their Chettinad region, the effect is spell- binding! The word ‘Chettinad’ refers to a social caste that specializes in the preparation of food, thus making Chettiars excellent master chefs. The Chettinad region comprises of 76 villages and 2 towns in the Sivagangai district of Tamil Nadu in south India. Though a small community, these Chettiars dominated the trading and finance business in the 19nth and 20th centuries and is believed to be the pioneer of the modern-day banking system being practiced in India. Their calculative lifestyle is reflected in their culinary skills with all dishes offering a perfect balance in flavors. Since food is such an essential part of the Chettiar’s lives, the kitchen is given special importance and is among the largest rooms in a typical Karaikudi home. And the best compliment to their cuisine in south India is the saying that ‘one is lucky to eat like a Chettiar’. Legend has it that the Chettiars were earlier residents of the Coromandel coast of Tamil Nadu where they traded in salt, till a great flood in the 8th century prompted them to migrate inwards into the semi-arid hinterlands around the Karaikudi region. From here, they set-up trading links with south-east Asian countries, with one of the main items being spices. Traditionally, Chettinad meals were served on a with servings of rice, pickles, pappads, vegetables and non-vegetarian dishes. Each item had to be served in a specific sequence and had a specific space on the banana leaf. Aside from this, the Chettiars are a superstitious lot when it comes to numbers and prefer to serve their dishes in odd numbers of seven or nine (per meal!). Another unique feature of Chettinad food is that they usually garnish their food with a hardboiled egg.

Volume VIII, Issue I, January/2019 Page No:1396 International Journal of Research. ISSN NO:2236-6124

Chettinad cuisine is believed to be the most aromatic and spiciest cuisine in India. Though the method of preparation is simple, the cuisine is well-known for its complexity of flavors. This it gets from the wide variety of spices that are always freshly roasted and ground for each meal preparation. Most dishes are loaded with heavy use of green chillies, dry red chillies and along with local spices like star anise, stone flower, cumin, fenugreek, fennel, cloves and tamarind. Further depth to their gravies is increased by addition of tomatoes, coconut, ginger and garlic. Another distinct feature of their cuisine is the use of sun-dried vegetables and sometimes, even sun-dried meats, which are preserved in such a way so as to enhance their nutritional value. Even though their vegetarian dishes are delicious, it’s their non-vegetarian dishes including chicken, mutton, prawns and other sea foods that really make an indelible impact on the taste buds. Their meals are invariably accompanied by buttermilk to tone down the heat of their curries. As you can imagine, their womenfolk end up spending quite a bit of time in their kitchens, hand-pounding fragrant spices in stone grinders and even using different kinds of firewood to develop specific flavors in their dishes.

8. Features of Chettinad Cuisine The cuisine of Chettinad is greatly influenced by the nature of the region, which is a dry, arid and hot region. Also the Chettiars brought back many influences from the history of hosting British guests during the early 19 th century. Chettiars are known for their warm hospitality and the size of their kitchens. They emphasise on joint family system so every meal is usually a large and elaborate affair. The Chettiars map out their history to a settlement near the coastline, so their cuisine also has great seafood. The dishes are generally pungent with fresh ground spices. A variety of sun dried meats and salted vegetables occupy the main course meals which reflect the dry environment of the region. Most of these are eaten with rice and other rice based food items.

9. Conclusion The culinary delicacies presented in chettinad cuisine are found to be delectable by people around the world. Chettinad cuisine is a mix of both vegetarian and non–vegetarian food Chettinad cuisine hails from the deep southern region of Tamilnadu. Chettinad cuisine is far cry from the bland cuisine of traditional tamilian Brahmins it is one of the spicest, oiliest and most aromatic in India. Authentic chettinad food includes ingredients from south – East Asia such as star anise,a typical Chinese spice and red rice from Burma.Other fragrant spices includes coriander, turmeric, cumin, pepper, fenugreek and cinnamon. In Chettinad food, the most important spices are Marathi mokku (dried flower pods),anasipoo (star aniseed) and kalpasi.Most of the dishes are eaten with rice and rice based accompaniments. Methods of cooking followed in Chettinad cuisines are Deep Frying and Steaming.The arts of chettinad occupy a distinct position in south Indian folkiore. Some of the tourist places in Chettinad are Karpagavinayagar temple, thmanathaswamy temple, Chettiar palace, Kamban mani mandapam, Kaviarsar kannadhasan mani mandapam, Kundrakkudi murugan temple and Chettinad museum. In this way the chettinad cuisine has promoting tourism in Tamilnadu.

10. References [1] Kamra KK. (2013). Me Cuisine: You Food A Treatise On Indian Food And Cuisine, Kanishka Publishers, Distributors, New Delhi. [2] Molz, J.G. (2007). Eating difference. The cosmopolitan mobilities of culinary tourism. Space and Culture, 10(1), 77-93.

Volume VIII, Issue I, January/2019 Page No:1397 International Journal of Research. ISSN NO:2236-6124

[3] Nield, K., Kozak, M., & LeGrys, G. (2000). The role of food service in tourism satisfaction. Hospitality Management, 19, 375-384. [4] Okumus, F., & McKercher, B. (2007). Incorporating local and international cuisines in the marketing of tourism destinations, Tourism Management, 28, 253-261. [5] Rindfleisch, A., Malter, A. J., Ganesan, S., & Moorman, C. (2008). Cross-sectional versus longitudinal survey research: concepts, findings, and guidelines. Journal of Marketing Research, 45(3), 261-279. [6] Sulek, J. M., & Hensley, R. L. (2004). The relative importance of food, atmosphere, and fairness of wait: The case of a full-service restaurant. Cornell Hotel and Restaurant Administration Quarterly, 45(3), 235-247.

Volume VIII, Issue I, January/2019 Page No:1398