Colorado's Dream 18

DENVER LIFE MAGAZINE DENVER LIFE MAGAZINE Adventure Awaits: Explore Colorado’s Hidden Escapes

CULTURE | ADVENTURE | STYLE

The Plimoth A Rock-Solid Dining Experience CULTURE | ADVENTURE Tee up on | STYLE STYLE Colorado’s Dream 18 the most noteworthy holes from across the state

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july PAGOSA Tackle your hooves SPRINGs’ bucket list & hiking: 2014 HEALING with a Goat Story WATERS Vela Adventures denverlifemagazine.com On the northwest end of the Elk Mountains, 12,966-foot Mount Sopris has two summits, adding rise and length to the trip of any go-getter looking to bag both summits. Colorado’s Secret Spots & Hidden Escapes These covert destinations boast thrilling adventure and endless entertainment without the crowds or clout of bigger mountain towns.

By Ted Alan Stedman

hike to Mushroom Rock in Carbondale’s Red Hill Recreation Area for a birds-eye view of the Roaring Fork Valley and Mount Sopris. photo by kate siber

DENVER LIFE MAGAZINE 8 75 9 hen it comes to packing the bikes, boots, boats and other outdoor tools for Colorado road trips, chances are most of us fall prey to the charms of the big guys; the Vails, Winter Parks, Fruitas and WSalidas that rightfully have earned distinction among adventure revelers. But in a big state with lots of nooks and crannies, what about veering to parts unknown—those little gems and one-horse towns where the outdoors is inescapably in your face (with less people)? Hold that thought and check out these quintessential Colorado escapes that still hover somewhere south of mainstream. Carbondale Critical Stats: Elevation: 6,181 feet Population: 6,489 n Miles from Denver: 170 Sporting Bipedal enthusiasts should on the Roaring Fork from town Pursuits: With take a stab at summiting 12,953- along the 14-mile stretch into DENVER Mount Sopris towering 6,783 feet foot Mount Sopris for incredible Glenwood Springs will likely net

CARBONDALE above Main St., it’s a given that panoramas of the Roaring Fork you fat browns and rainbows. Or self-propelled exploits are at Valley, area 14ers and the sur- you can simply wade fish any of Carbondale’s doorstep. The town rounding Maroon Bells-Snow- the two public miles of access not only rubs shoulders with mass Wilderness. Many sum- in Carbondale. For paddlers, the Maroon Bells-Snowmass miteers opt for an overnighter Carbondale’s pretty much a do-it- The Vibe: A mellow Wilderness and at least 50 desig- to rest, explore and absorb the yourself affair unless you go up free-thinker’s town populated nated trails in White River Na- scenery during the seven-mile or down valley to reputable raft- by New West types, adventurous, tional Forest, but it also claims (one-way), 4,253-foot ing and kayaking outfit- independent professionals and four major rivers, the Colorado, summit bid. The ters such as Blazing a growing number of second- Crystal, Roaring Fork and Frying Mount Sopris Adventures in home owners. Carbondale is a Pan, all within a 10-minute drive. Trail begins at Aspen. There are friendly, unpretentious town Mountain bikers can crank the Thomas plenty of play free of the glitter of its up-valley out a rousing 30-miler on the Lakes Trailhead holes nearby, Aspen neighbor. Hay Park Trail. The loop con- before heading including the nects a combo of dirt roads, up the east ridge Roaring Fork’s Local double- and single-track from to Thomas Lakes Class II-III Ceme- Knowledge: Spring the Thomas Lakes Trailhead and the chilly option tery (Don’t worry, just a Gulch Nordic Trail System to Basalt, skirting the base of of a quick swim. Following reference to the nearby cem- (springgulch.org), near town, is a Mount Sopris. This advanced the ridge puts you on some loose etery). If you’re a confident ex- little-known gem with fantastic ride is worth 3,200 feet of scree, where you’ll connect with pert, the Crystal River’s infamous rolling terrain for classic and elevation gain and explores the main summit ridge before Meatgrinder, a Class V+ monster skate skiers. And the town’s stately aspen groves with so crossing the half-mile saddle to near Redstone, is waiting. signature backdrop, Mount many jaw-dropping views of the west peak of Mount Sopris. Sopris, happens to possess the 14ers, such as Capitol Peak, And all that water surround- The Gold Medal Water of the Roaring Fork longest continuous vertical rise you’ll be making more stops ing Carbondale? The Roaring River is known for in Colorado. than a school bus. Your reward Fork and Frying Pan are desig- its large brown and for all the uphill chugging is a nated Gold Medal Waters, mean- rainbow trout. long descent that spits you out ing there’s trout up to 26 inches on Capitol Creek Road. in these parts. Guided boat trips

Eat & Sleep: Village Smithy (villagesmithy.com), a “Carbondale legend,” has the best hearty meals in town, such as the chili-laden Santiago Skillet breakfast. The Roaring Fork Beer Company (roaringforkbeerco. com) offers seasonal beers year-round—my current pick is their Slaughterhouse Lager—and tasting rooms with views of Mount Sopris. With its riverside location on the Roaring Fork, Carbondale Comfort Inn & Suites (carbondale.com/comfort-inn) recalibrates the notion of what a national lodging chain can be.

Resources: • Roaring Fork Anglers, roaringforkanglers.com • U.S. Forest Service, Aspen-Sopris Ranger • Ajax Bike & Sport, ajaxbikeandsport.com • Blazing Adventures, blazingadventures.com District, 970.319.2670

denverlifemagazine.com 8 76 9 Head east to three drive-to’s where history, and pre-history, come alive… Denver DAY TRIP# H H H 1 Technicolor Canyon Walk A popular destination Southeast of Denver lies a star- for whitewater tling surprise. A fissure in the pursuits, the Roaring otherwise endless rolling plains Fork has the power leads into a bizarre labyrinth of hoodoos, mushroom-capped and depth needed to pinnacles, gargoyle-like spires keep rafting outfitters and towering canyon formations festooned in pastel hues of rose, afloat. lavender, ochre and golden- rod. Opened in 2005, Paint Mines Interpretive Park is one of Colorado’s most spectacular, if not obscure, natural oddities. Nearly five miles of trails lead hikers on a journey through 750 acres of eroding gulches and clays colored from

leaching minerals Native Ameri- cans used 9,000 years ago to make pottery. Get a leg up on the summer swelter with an early a.m. visit, when fox and antelope make Paint Mines an especially animated wonderland. elpasoco.com

rafting by george hendrix; beer courtesy of roaring fork beer company; fly fishing courtesy of roaring fork anglers

DENVER LIFE MAGAZINE 8 77 9 Denver DAY Lake City TRIH H HP# 2 Critical Stats: Jurassic Journey Elevation: 8,671 feet Population: 391 n Miles from Denver: 255 Southeast Colorado’s rolling plains hardly seem like the zip code for the largest dinosaur trackway in North America. DENVER But at Picketwire Canyonlands, you’ll find 1,300 footprints of meat-eating Allosaurus and massive Apato- LAKE CITY saurus that lumbered here 150 million years ago. Carved by The Vibe: Waves from strangers, no traffic lights and a sense that you’ve stumbled into a secluded Shangri-La deep in the San Juan Mountains... A 10-minute walk gets you anywhere in this little town. People in Lake City are unhurried, but it’s not unusual to see fitness folks out in the early morning light in any season, pur- suing their personal communion with the local geography on foot, skis, snowshoes, kayaks or bikes. Local the Purgatoire River, the remote This canyon’s 8.7-mile trail courses Knowledge: beneath red rock bluffs spilling is the place to get lost. Hinsdale onto a wide river bottom. Just County, whose only town is Lake shy of four miles, you’ll first spot City, is 95 percent public land, and the ruins of the 1871 Dolores half of that is wilderness. Lake Spanish Mission, while nearby City is surrounded by the Uncom- each June, ultra- runners gather for cliffs showcase 5,000-year- pahgre, Powderhorn, Weminuche Endurance Run, an offshoot of the San Juan Solstice old Native American rock art. and La Garita wildernesses, which the wicked Hardrock 100. Just 50 Mile Run, a rugged Another 1.6 miles plunks you include five 14ers and 26 13ers. completing the 50-miler is a race through the San Juan Mountains. at the track sites, where signs feat and testament to your sur- describe how dinosaur herds Sporting vival instincts. The annual run ultra-experienced runners, who left their preserved footprints Never mind consists of five main sections, incidentally have a good chance on a shallow lakebed until ero- Pursuits: sion and geological forces ex- that starving cannibal Alfred including a side-stitching 4,500- of encountering potentially posed broad slabs of limestone. Packer ate here, a dubious dis- foot climb up Alpine Gulch; a lethal lightning, freezing sleet, If the 10.6-mile round-trip for tinction many in Lake City would 4,000-foot slog up to the old min- hypothermic conditions and the dinosaur tracks sounds too rather forget. Get past the skull- ing town of Carson; a 41-mile, even bears. audacious, opt for the guided duggery and this area is a wilder- 2,000-foot haul along the Con- The rest of us might enjoy four-wheel drive tour coordi- ness haven, blessed with glorious tinental Divide; and a descent taking five days to climb the five nated through the local Forest creeks and trails. to 11,361-foot Slumgullion Pass, area 14ers: Wetterhorn, Uncom- Service office. For overnighters, For anyone who can hammer followed by a final hump over the pahgre, Handies, Redcloud and four free first-come, first-served out marathons in their sleep, a Vicker’s Ranch Plateau. It goes Sunshine peaks. Each rate no primitive campsites are avail- big step up would be Lake City’s without saying that this monu- more than a Class III climb; very able at the trailhead. storied San Juan Solstice 50 mentally demanding run is for doable for anyone with strong exploresoutheastcolorado.com

denverlifemagazine.com 8 78 9 14,015-foot Wetterhorn Peak involves a class three scramble using your hands and feet; hard hats are recommended to protect against falling rock.

disposal, there are plenty of less-airy trails and backpacking options. A classic backcountry trek in the Uncompahgre Wilderness (aka “Switzerland of Eat & Sleep: Enjoy your joe at the Mocha Moose America”) is a (mochamoosecoffeehouse.com), smack dab in what qualifies as historic shuttle hike con- downtown Lake City. Housed in the 1881 Avery Building, the Restless necting the East Spirits Saloon (restlessspiritssaloon.com) is the town’s social nexus and Middle forks and serves up tasty pizzas, burgers and sandwiches. Rub shoulders of the Cimarron with locals at the saloon’s fabulous Old West-style bar. Forest-shrouded River, right be- Arnold’s Pleasant View Resort (pleasantviewresort.net) is a collec- low the vaulting tion of comfy cabins, each with a scenic deck for dining and drinks. Lake City boasts plentiful wildlife which makes for interesting faces of 14ers Un- And steps from Lake San Cristobal is The Inn at the Lake (inat- encounters on the nearby roads and trails. compahgre and thelake.org), a charming mountain retreat with 10 rooms and a deli- Wetterhorn. The 14- cious daily breakfast. quads, good lungs and common mile journey has the characteris- sense at exposure points. All tics of the Alps, with precipitous Resources: trailheads are within easy strik- jagged peaks, late summer snow- • The Sportsman Outdoors & Fly Shop, lakecityflyshop.com ing distance from Lake City. fields and incredible expanses of • San Juan Solstice 50 Endurance Run, lakecity50.com But, with the four surround- wildflower-studded tundra. • U.S. Forest Service, Gunnison Ranger District, Lake City, ing wilderness areas at your 970.641.0471 or 970.944.2500 ncompahgre hiking by laurence parent photography; photography; parent laurence hiking by U ncompahgre brad wood; 50 by solstice j uan san of lake city switchbacks courtesy moose and lake city photo

DENVER LIFE MAGAZINE 8 79 9 Bikers discover splashes of summer color amongst the tall Ponderosa forest during rides on the Maverick Loop of the Boggy Cortez Draw trail above Dolores, Colorado. Critical Stats: Elevation: 6,200 feet Population: 8,474 n Miles from Denver: 382

Local Sporting the town of Dolores, just a few DENVER Knowledge: Geog- Pursuits: This Four miles up Highway 145 from Cor- raphy rules! Outdoor enthusiasts Corners town was once known tez. The nearly nine-mile ride can travel between arid desert as the “Dark Corner,” a conver- can actually be stitched together and lush 10,000-foot mountains gence of massive mountains with two other loops, the 11- CORTEZ in under an hour’s drive. Think and desiccated desert where mile Bean Canyon trail and the Moab and Durango with 1/100th anyone (outlaw Butch Cassidy five-mile Maverick Loop, for a The Vibe: Laid-back, the crowd. With more than 6,000 was a Cortez figure) could hide somewhat epic route that pans diverse and tolerant. Cortez documented sites containing 12th out from the law, clear up to the out to nearly 25 miles. The eleva- counts environmentalists, century Ancestral Puebloan ar- early 1900s. That says a lot about tion is give-and-take, without Sage Brush Rebellionists and tifacts in nearby Canyons of the the landscape; remote, rugged any serious climbing except for hard-core outdoor enthusiasts, Ancients National Monument, and unforgiving. a short grind up the Bean. You’ll along with real-deal cowboys there’s more archaeologists per During summer months be treated to a fast roller-coaster and agriculturists, as its citi- capita here than any place else in Cortez cooks, so it’s best to seek ride of ups and downs while zens, not to mention a sizeable North America. relief in the cool high country. enjoying the panoramas of two population from the Southern A mountain biking standout ecosystems. Ute Tribe. is Boggy Draw Loop on the For a completely surreal ex- Ponderosa-shaded mesa above perience, try flat-water kayaking

denverlifemagazine.com 8 80 9 Denver or stand-up paddleboarding in Colorado’s second-largest body DAY of water, the 4,470-acre McPhee TRIP Reservoir, 23 miles north of Cor- A classic, fairly tame H H H # tez. The reservoir measures 12 3 miles tip-to-tip, but an umpteen but splashy river run, number of fingers quadruples the known as the Stoner High Plains shoreline miles. Here, you’re es- Stampede, ends at a Drifting sentially in the desert, surround- great swimming hole It’s where the Dust Bowl’s devas- ed by towering rock walls, afloat tation gave way to ghost towns near Dolores. and abandoned lands later on a liquid maze. An interesting reclaimed as protected federal consequence of droughts is that grasslands. And it’s where author the lower water level has exposed James A. Michener’s historical a bounty of Ancestral Puebloan fiction novel Centennial was (Anasazi) ruins and cliff art. based. But today, the novel’s There’s also whitewater fun “Rattlesnake Buttes” are prop- on the Dolores River, which is erly known as Pawnee Buttes, enjoying a somewhat better water twin 300-foot-high sandstone year than last. Above the hamlet monoliths presiding over the of Stoner, paddlers can play on windswept plains like misplaced the Stoner Stampede, a big Class sentinels. As centerpieces of Pawnee National III wave that’s great for perfecting Grassland in northeast your rodeo moves. In Dolores, you can meander among numer- ous wave trains as the river cuts through town, right down to Riv- erside Park, the site of a consider- able river restoration project that helps fish and buoys rapids. Float farther and you’ll hit Joe Rowell Park and the last rapid in town, which appropriately coincides with The Beach, a nice sandy Colorado, the sky islands are take-out spot and a great swim- internationally recognized for ming hole to boot. migratory birds, along with bloom- ing wildflowers, fox, coyote and Eat & Sleep: Get pumped at Silver Bean Coffee Resources: an assortment of other high plains (970.946.4404), a jumpin’ java joint housed in an Airstream trailer, or • Kokopelli Bike & Board, critters. Our advice? Lace up your break a sweat at the El Grande Café (970.565.9996), known for spicy, kokopellibike.com boots, grab your binos and pe- green chili breakfasts. For cool-downs, it’s Coyote J. Brewing (jfar- • Wilderness Aware Rafting, ruse the easy three-mile round- gos.com), the local’s pick for craft beer and pub eats. Stay at the chain inaraft.com trip Pawnee Buttes Trail. You’ll tra- lodges, or if you root for family-owned businesses, hang your hat at • U.S. Forest Service, Dolores verse colorful eroded sandstone the Tomahawk Lodge (angelfire.com/co2/tomahawk). Clean and newly Ranger District, 970.882.7296 arroyos and islets of woodlands, followed by wide-open prairie remodeled, with giving way to the spectacle of the 24/7 coffee and a distant buttes. Keep your eyes welcome mat for peeled for hawks, eagles, falcons pets, it’s wonder- and other migratory species that fully retro; a time zoom along the buttes. Know that capsule from the the birding bounty comes with a nation’s motel hey- slight caveat, as select trail sec- days. tions are closed March 1 - June 30 during nesting. Silver Bean Coffee fs.usda.gov/arp tain biking and boating by scott d.w. smith; silver bean coffee by bill lemke bean coffee by smith; silver d.w. scott by biking and boating MOUN tain

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