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Lake Titicaca ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lake Titicaca Why Go? Juliaca .......................... 168 In Andean belief, Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun. In ad- Around Juliaca ............. 169 dition, it’s the largest lake in South America and the high- Puno .............................. 171 est navigable body of water in the world. Banner blue skies Around Puno .................179 contrast with bitterly cold nights. Enthralling and in many Lake Titicaca Islands ....181 ways singular, the shimmering deep blue Lake Titicaca is the longtime home of highland cultures steeped in the old ways. Capachica Peninsula & Around .......................... 184 Pre-Inca Pukara, Tiwanaku and Collas all left their mark upon the landscape. Today the region is a mix of crum- South-Shore Towns ...... 186 bling cathedrals, desolate altiplano and checkerboard fields Bolivian Shore .............. 188 backed by rolling hills and high Andean peaks. In this world, crops are still planted and harvested by hand. Campesinos wear sandals recycled from truck tires, women work in pet- Best Places to ticoats and bowler hats, and llamas are tame as pets. It might first appear austere, but ancient holidays Stay & Eat are marked with riotous celebrations where elaborately » Titilaka (p186) costumed-processions and brass bands ripcord a frenzy that » Casa Andina Isla Suasi lasts for days. (p184) » Casa Panq’arani (p173) » Capachica community When to Go homestays (p184) Puno °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Mojsa (p176) 40/104 12/300 30/86 8/200 Best Festivals 20/68 » La Virgen de la Candelaria 10/50 (p172) 4/100 0/32 » Puno Week (p173) -10/14 0 » Fiesta de San Juan (p173) J F DNOSAJJMAM » Alacitas (p173) Early Feb For Jun–Aug Winter’s Early Nov Puno » Feast of Saint James the marvelous dry season her- Week celebrates (p173) spectacle of alds cold, clear the birth of the festival of nights and bright Mánco Capac, the La Virgen de la sunny days. first Inca, in wild Candelaria. style. 168 It’s also possible to arrive from Bolivia by bus 8 Getting There & Around or a packaged island tour of Lake Titicaca. There are daily flights to Juliaca (one hour from Puno) from Lima and Cuzco. Regular buses travel from Arequipa, Cuzco and Lima to Juliaca and Puno. There’s also an iconic train route from Juliaca Cuzco (see p178). If arriving from sea level, it’s %051 / TRANSPORT HUB / ELEV 3826M best to travel overland in order to better ac- The region’s only commercial airport makes climate to the altitude; flying straight from Lima Juliaca, the largest city on the altiplano, an can serve up quite a headache. unavoidable transit hub. The city bustles To Ayaviri (22km); Abra La Raya (90km) 0 50 km 0 25 miles Lago de Pucará Arapa Huancané Taraco 3 Moho Lampa 108 Cueva Airport Esc de los 111 allani Cambria Tilali Toros Juliaca Isla Suasi Conima L Puerto Acosta A Chifrón Isla ke T Capachica Ticonata BOLIVIA Sillustani Ccotos Isla Amantaní iticaca Llachón Lago Umayo Capachica Peninsula Luquina 112 Islas Isla Taquile Uros Chico Puno Lake Titicaca Chimú J Chucuito uliaca Ichu Isla del Sol Cutimbo Ilave Isla de Yampupata la Luna 32 Estrecho de South-Shore Copacabana Tiquina Towns Huatajata Juli 3 Yunguyo Pomata Isla Taquiri Anapia Laguna de PERU 113 Wiñaymarca Zepita To La Paz (45km) Desaguadero 36 Tiahuanaco Lake Titicaca Highlights 1 Boat the serene blue Titicaca’s bucolic south- 6 Recharge your batteries expanse to the mystical shore towns (p186) on the sunny, somnolent (p181) of Lake islands 4 Hike across farmland Capachica Peninsula Titicaca (p184) and climb hills to overgrown 2 Celebrate festivals with ruins in Ichu (p186) 7 Stargaze and sleep on blaring brass bands and crazy board the historic steamship 5 Visit awe-inspiring costumes in Puno (p174), Yavari (p176) funerary towers at Sillustani Peru’s capital folklórico 8 Cross into Bolivia to (p179) and Cutimbo (p179) 3 Admire the elaborate explore the legendary Isla temples that dwarf Lake del Sol (p190).
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