SOUTH RIM [IN 4 HOURS OR LESS] “The Beauties Form, of and Sound Color in the Grand Unite Canyon.”

MOUNTAIN LAKES 2014 Something to Wet Your Whistle JULY EXPLORE THE CANYON! ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE — JOHN WESLEY POWELL — The Best of the SOUTH RIM [IN 4 HOURS OR LESS] “The beauties form, of and sound color in the Grand unite Canyon.” PLUS: YARNELL, ONE YEAR LATER • AN OX NAMED CUDDLES • STRAWBERRY, AZ BUTCHART BUTTE • SOMETHING RETRO UP ON THE NORTH RIM • HUMPHREYS PEAK CONTENTS 07.14 North Rim Grand Canyon National Park 2 EDITOR’S LETTER > 3 CONTRIBUTORS > 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR > 56 WHERE IS THIS? Flagstaff Camp Verde Strawberry Yarnell 5 THE JOURNAL 46 THIS ONE’S FOR HARVEY Eagar People, places and things from around the state, including Chuck Among the many notable explorers of the Grand Canyon, PHOENIX Stretch, an old-school filling-station attendant on the North Rim; a Harvey Butchart is the most prolific. Over the course of sev- saloon in Camp Verde that defies the notion of “bar food”; and eral decades, he hiked more than 12,000 miles and climbed Tucson Strawberry, our hometown of the month. 83 inner-Canyon summits. In spite of those numbers, there weren’t any memorials to mark his accomplishments. That St. David 16 ON THE EDGE is, until 2008, when a 7,611-foot peak near Point Imperial POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE There’s a lot to see on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. You could was officially designated Butchart Butte. easily spend days up there and never run out of things to do. Most TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELIAS BUTLER people, however, are in and out in less than four hours. It’s for them that this story is written. 50 PULLING THEIR WEIGHT BY ROBERT STIEVE Andy Mayberry is a gentleman farmer, a sixth-generation GET MORE ONLINE Arizonan and a well-established family-practice physician in www.arizonahighways.com 26 LAND OF LESS THAN 10,000 LAKES Benson. But it’s his 2,200-pound oxen that garner the most Visit our website for details on weekend getaways, It’s true, Minnesota has a lot of lakes — at least 10,000, probably more. attention — and do most of the work. hiking, lodging, dining, photography workshops, We have lakes in Arizona, too. There aren’t as many as there are in BY KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER slideshows and more. PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN BURCHAM Minnesota, but they’re still spectacular. Plus, we don’t have as many www.arizonahighways.wordpress.com mosquitoes. Check out our blog for regular posts on just 52 SCENIC DRIVE A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA about anything having to do with travel in Eagar to Big Lake: Although you will see a few signs of the Arizona, including Q&A’s with writers and pho- tographers, special events, bonus photos, sneak 36 AFTER THE SMOKE CLEARED Wallow Fire along this 21-mile back road, you’ll also see peeks at upcoming issues and more. swaths of grasslands, crystal-clear water and many remind- On June 30, 2013, a seemingly routine wildfire broke out ers that the White Mountains are still spectacular. www.facebook.com/azhighways southwest of Prescott. But within 24 hours, the Yarnell Hill Fire had become anything but ordinary when 19 Join our Facebook community to share your 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH photographs, chat with other fans, enter trivia heroic hotshots lost their lives fighting the blaze. The contests and receive up-to-the-minute informa- tragedy was front-page news around the world. It wasn’t Humphreys Peak: It’s not the most difficult hike in Arizona, tion about what’s going on behind the scenes at the only story, though. A team of unsung heroes was but at 12,633 feet above sea level, it is the highest, and for Arizona Highways. peak-baggers, that’s what matters most. working relentlessly behind the scenes, and a year later, Arizona Highways is on Instagram it’s still fighting the effects of the fire. Follow us @arizonahighways to see our travel BY KATHY MONTGOMERY photos from around the state. PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID ZICKL www.pinterest.com/azhighways Join our creative community on Pinterest to share 42 RIDING HIGH photo inspiration, outdoors ideas and more. Ranching in Northern Arizona has never been easy — not for cattle, not for cowboys. Although it’s a more efficient line of work than it was 60 years ago, there are some, including our writer, who long for a time when all the work was done on horseback. BY JO BAEZA ◗ After a storm, fog envelops the Superstition Wilderness east of Phoenix. | GEORGE STOCKING CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK II; SHUTTER: 1/400 SEC; APERTURE: F/11; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 32 MM FRONT COVER Sunrise illuminates the buttes of the Grand Canyon, as seen from the South Rim. | ADAM SCHALLAU CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK III; SHUTTER: 0.6 SEC; APERTURE: F/14; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 25 MM BACK COVER A monsoon storm empties into the Canyon at sunset in this view from Lipan Point. | GEORGE STOCKING CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK II; SHUTTER: 1/100 SEC; APERTURE: F/10; ISO: 125; FOCAL LENGTH: 70 MM PHOTOGRAPHIC2 JANUARY 2013PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors JO BAEZA “Ranch life was more intense in the 1950s,” says Jo Baeza, whose essay Time at the Canyon this month (see Riding High, page 42) recounts her time on a Northern JULY 2014 VOL. 90, NO. 7 Arizona cattle ranch. “You knew when you rode out in the morning that 800-543-5432 www.arizonahighways.com here are 106 windows in Kolb in our story, too, but he logged more than that day could be your last. Your horse could step into a badger hole or PUBLISHER Win Holden get spooked for no reason. If you broke a leg, it would take a long time Studio. That’s a lot of windows, it’s not the ride you’re 12,000 miles, climbed EDITOR Robert Stieve T until you think about where the thinking of. There’s a 83 inner-Canyon sum- MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Kramer for someone to find your tracks, and even longer to get you home.” old building is located. “Kolb Studio is new tour that takes off mits and navigated SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kathy Ritchie And she clearly misses that lifestyle: “All the humans and animals were ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin four stories hanging off the edge of the from Yaki Point. more than 100 rim-to- interdependent. We relied on our horses, our dogs and each other to EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel Grand Canyon,” says Dave Uberuaga, “It’s a wonderful river routes. And along PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida get the job done. I loved every day in the saddle.” In 1965, Baeza left the ALEC PEARCE the superintendent of Grand Canyon ride along the rim,” the way, he spent the CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney ranch and moved to Pinetop-Lakeside, where she’s been ever since. National Park. He means that literally. Dave says, “without equivalent of three ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney Her most recent book, Arizona: The Making of a State, was published in 2012 to coincide with the DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice Of all the historic structures on the South the scariness of riding years inside the park MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey state’s Centennial. Baeza is currently working on a history of Pinetop-Lakeside. Rim, Kolb is closest to the edge. The only down into the Canyon. — that’s at least 6,570 PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi way to get any closer is to hike down. Even if you’ve never times more than the WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero Thus, the 106 windows. been on a mule, it’s average South Rim CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman PAUL GILL Considering the location, location, easy — you just get on visitor. FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen The White Mountains have location, it’s understandable why Emery and go. The mules are Sadly, Harvey died INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Cindy Bormanis been a favorite shooting and Ellsworth Kolb would have installed so well trained that MARKOW PAUL in 2002, but his legacy location for Arizona-born CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 so many windows when they built their you can actually let go of the reins, look lives on in the form of Butchart Butte, SPONSORSHIP SALES photographer Paul Gill for REPRESENTATION Kathleen Hennen 40 years. “After the Wallow photography studio in the early 1900s, around and take pictures.” which was dedicated a few years after Hennen Publishing & but that excess comes with a price. Oxen are like mules. Although you his death. According to Elias Butler, it’s Marketing Group Fire, it was like losing a good 480-664-0541 Because of the accumulating decades and probably wouldn’t want to ride on one, a summit that’s “easily seen but not eas- friend,” he says, “but, to my LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] surprise, the new aspens are the harsh realities of weather on the Rim, they’re very good at following orders. In ily reached.” Nevertheless, our writer 2039 W. Lewis Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85009 the windows are deteriorating. And so is fact, by definition, an ox is a steer that’s recently attempted to climb it. already more than 6 feet tall, MOREY JOHN the rest of the building. been trained to work.

Load more