Horta,
Portugal
Saturday, April 29, 2017
Horta is a place that has catered to the sea for generations. It is the mid Atlantic stopping over place for every yacht and small ship going between North America and Europe. It is a small bustling seaport that was originally a whaling community, but today is an agriculture- based economy and enjoys a growing tourist or vacationer trade. Its architecture is like the other Azores with lots of volcanic, dark grey stones to offset the extensive use of white paint or wash. Two key dates in the history here are 1876, when the first port was construct- ed, and 1957 when a volcanic eruption devastated the Azores, damaging a significant number of structures.
This being our last port before crossing the Atlantic, we chose to not do a tour, but to walk and climb around the town. And climb you must. The town is right next to the port, but the ascents begin one block inland from the water. However, it was a delightful place and a delightful day. It is time to talk about food. For one thing, because volcanic heat is so accessible just below the surface of the ground, they use that source of heat as a slow cooker. Just dig a hole about three feet deep, and 15 inches in diameter. Into a metal cylinder, you load beef, potatoes, root vegetables, some fluid and anything else you want, lower it into the ground cover it with a wooden cover and leave it for about 5 to 6 hours. Then just hoist it out of the ground and serve up a stew that has everything cooked to perfection. Pretty incredible and an offering at every restaurant. But we chose to try a Portuguese hamburger. Picture an oversized English Muffin that is almost 4 inches in diameter. But it is puffier, because they add yeast. The hamburger is their fine Azorean beef. Then comes cheese, a fried egg, bacon and lettuce. Served with their own potato chips that are crisp, but shiny with olive oil. I will add that their pure water makes for a fine pilsner beer to finish off the meal. It was terrific, but more than a meal. Glad we did our climbing early.
It is a short walk into town from where the ship docked. The harbor is small, with a very narrow entrance in the break- waters, but very well protect- ed.
The shore side of the breakwater is adorned with artwork left by yachts and ships that have stopped in Horta during a trans Atlantic crossing. Almost every nation can be found represented here.
These appeared to be city or island government buildings, although they were not identified as such.
The narrow streets make good use of the plentiful volcanic rocks as pave- ment.
Throughout the day we had periods of sun and threatening clouds. No rain, for which we were happy as we reached the apex of our climb for the day. This is the church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo. It is no long- er in use, but it sits high above the town and it shows distinct- ly the dramatic and artistic use of volcan- ic rock in their archi- tecture.
Here is the main church. The structures on either side were originally used as a Jesuit Col- lege. The college is no longer in operation.
Just another view up the hill to the church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo. This is the square in front of the former Jesuit College.
Horta—on departure. We are left with this sense of peace and tranquility. There is no crime here. Guns just don’t exist unless you have a license to shoot rabbits during the annual time to con- trol that population. There are no predatory animals here. No racoons, no foxes, no snakes, no coyotes. It is a dream place for walkers and hikers. Even drugs are a near non-problem. The limited access to these islands makes control a manageable issue.
Beginning the Transit Home. As we were getting ready to slip the lines in Horta the Captain was straightforward in tell- ing us about the weather. Storm conditions to the northwest were going to cause us to run to the south in an attempt to mitigate the effects on our crossing. Immediately after clearing the harbor and leaving the lee of Faial Island, the effect of the swells were felt. Speed was increased to the maximum and the ship took a heading about 30 degrees to the left of the planned Great Circle Route to Fort Lauderdale. The Captain planned to maintain the maximum speed and southerly offset in course until he could get almost 500 miles south of the intended track, just to do the best he could in making for a smoother ride. I am impressed, as I know that running the ship at maximum speed as compared to the planned 17 knots extracts a very significant penalty in fuel consumption. I will let you know how this turns out.
Today’s Conversation . . .
One of our shipmates was lamenting the fact that he had not gone whale watching while he was on the Azores.
I told him: “Sam, not to worry. If you want to see some of the largest mammals on earth, go to the dining room tonight”
I think I consoled him.