GAP FILLS A BIG HOLE/2 LUXURY TIME FOR JAY-Z/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • April 19, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Here and Vow NEW YORK — Taste and grace — those two words sum up Vera Wang’s spring 2006 bridal collection, shown here on Thursday. The designer’s line stood out for its subtle but distinctive colors, varying hemlines and beautiful details. Here, one of her gowns in crepe satin and tulle, with a taffeta tie. For more on this season’s bridal trends, see pages 6 to 9.

Growing Neiman Marcus: New Owner May Be Near And Expansion a Priority By David Moin NEW YORK — Expend, then expand. With Neiman Marcus Group expected to be sold as early as next month for a minimum of $100 a share, or in the $5 billion range, concerns are mounting over what it will all mean for the luxury chain’s future and its ongoing expansion. At the moment, it appears the bidding action has boiled down to two front- runners — Kohlberg, Kravis Roberts & Co. teaming with Bain Capital Partners, and Thomas H. Lee with The Blackstone Group. Other private equity firms apparently have taken a pass. According See Growth, Page10 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO 2 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 WWD.COM Gap Gets President, Old Navy Ships Out By David Moin in New York,” she said. was reassigned as president for WWDTUESDAY The Gap spokeswoman also an upcoming yet-to-be-named di- Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Gap Inc. is mak- said that “speed to market” with vision targeting consumers 35 ing some major changes in an new products was also an impor- years of age and older. It was im- GENERAL attempt to reverse its slowdown. tant objective and that the trans- portant that the company fill the With Neiman Marcus Group drawing bids in the $100-a-share range, new On Monday, the Gap Brand di- fer of Old Navy’s design team to void before Thursday, when it 1 owners will need to expand in order to profit off the investment. vision announced a new presi- be closer to the senior staff of Old will hold a big analyst presenta- Swiss watch brand Audemars Piguet is creating a new line of watches to dent, Cynthia Harriss, an execu- Navy will help in that regard. tion in San Francisco, to present celebrate rap star Jay-Z’s 10 years in the music business. tive with extensive retail experi- In total, there is said to be a more complete management 2 ence. Also, Diane Neal was pro- about 450 people working at Gap team. Sources said that a few EYE: Afschineh Latifi talks about her book, “Even After All This Time: A Story moted to president of the Gap Inc. design offices here at 45 West weeks ago, another candidate de- 4 of Love, Revolution and Leaving Iran”…Waxing poetic with Dana Goodyear. outlet division, filling Harriss’ for- 16th Street. They’re involved in cided against taking the job at FASHION: The spring bridal runway shows held last week featured several mer role. product development for Old the last minute. 6 key trends for the big day — most notably lots of ribbons and bows. Meanwhile, the Old Navy divi- Navy, Gap and Banana Republic. Before joining Gap, Harriss sion is dismantling its New York Harriss will step into her was president of the Disneyland TEXTILES: Three months into the post-quota era, Chinese textile firms at product development team and new role on May 2 and oversee Resort division of The Walt 11 Intertextile Beijing had mixed feelings about the state of their industry. relocating it to Gap’s San Fran- all aspects of the Gap brand in Disney Co., and served as senior Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 cisco headquarters. About 100 North America, including Gap vice president of stores for The people work on the team, though Adult, GapKids, babyGap and Disney Store. Earlier, she spent To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is many are unlikely to make the GapBody. She will report to Gap 19 years with Paul Harris Stores [email protected], using the individual’s name. move west, according to sources. Inc. president and chief execu- in merchandising and opera- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 A Gap spokeswoman disputed tive Paul Pressler and continue tional capacities, including vice FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 189, NO. 83. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one speculation that Old Navy was to serve on the executive leader- president and general merchan- additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional looking to cut costs. “It’s not about ship team. dise manager, and senior vice issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., decreasing the head count,” she “Through her 30 years of re- president of stores. Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill said. “It’s more about fostering tail experience, Cynthia has Neal, 48, had been senior Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, creativity and collaboration.” demonstrated that she is a vice president of merchandising Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at The change in tack at Old strong operator and merchant, for the outlet division. She will additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Navy raises the question of as well as an exceptional leader also report to Pressler and No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR whether the Banana Republic with a track record of inspiring serve on the executive leader- SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR and Gap divisions also might shift and developing great teams,” ship team. She joined Gap in DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is personnel. However, the spokes- Pressler said in a statement. October 2004 from Mervyn’s, required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. 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Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Jay-Z Enters Luxe With Audemars Piguet ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. behind you — I’m about to pass By Emily Holt The new you twice,” a line from Jay-Z’s watch line. NEW YORK — In another case of song, “Hovi Baby.” fashion and celebrity making for Total sales from the series will In Brief surprising bedfellows, 130-year- reach about $4 million, Bennah- old Swiss watch brand Audemars mias said. Of that amount, ● NO BONUS FOR DREXLER: J. Crew Group Inc. said in an April Piguet is creating a line of watch- $500,000 will be donated to the S. 12 filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission that chief es to celebrate rap star Jay-Z’s 10 Carter Scholarship Fund, a non- executive officer Millard Drexler did not receive a cash bonus years in the music business. profit organization founded in based on the company’s fiscal year 2004 financial results when op- The limited-edition selection, 2002 by Jay-Z, whose given name erating profits rose to $20 million from $1 million in the prior year. called the Audemars Piguet is Shawn Carter, and his mother, However, the following executives did receive annual bonuses: Royal Oak Offshore Jay-Z 10th Gloria. The fund provides finan- Jeffrey Pfeifle, president, $500,000; Tracy Gardner, executive vice Anniversary Limited Edition se- cial assistance to promising stu- president, merchandising, planning and production, $300,000; ries, will be unveiled during a dents accepted into any accredit- Roxane Al-Fayez, executive vice president of e-commerce and cat- press conference today at the ed institution of higher learning. alog, $250,000, and Scott Hyatt, senior vice president of production, Four Seasons Hotel here. Jay-Z is an enthusiastic watch $160,000. J. Crew’s compensation committee also approved base “Since we met [four years collector, with a collection around salary increases for each of those executives, including Drexler, ago], Jay’s bought a lot of the 30 pieces, including Audemars for fiscal year 2005, which range up to 12.5 percent, the filing said. watches,” said François-Henry in rose gold and 20 will be done Piguet and other brands. It is unclear from the filing why Drexler did not receive a bonus in Bennahmias, chief executive of- in platinum. Each one will be en- “At first, I just liked watches; I 2004. The company could not be reached for comment. ficer of Audemars Piguet. “He’s graved on the back with “Royal didn’t know about their complica- known in the music world for ap- Oak Offshore Jay-Z 10th Anni- tions and movements,” he said. ● GUESS GOES HOLLYWOOD: One week after completion of the preciating nice things. He’s pret- versary” and Jay-Z’s signature. In “The price tag was high and I was sale of Metro-Goldwyn Mayer Inc., Guess nominated the former ty low key, actually.” honor of his decade in the music like, ‘What? What’s that for?’ Now chief executive officer of the movie studio to its board. Alex The watches, which will retail industry, the number 10 on the I know — it’s a good investment.” Ye menidjian, who was also MGM’s board chairman, left the com- from $23,500 to $69,500, will be dial will be set in diamonds. This is not the first time pany that billionaire Kirk Kerkorian sold to a consortium led by available exclusively at the “It was a joint effort,” Jay-Z Piguet has brought some star Japan’s Sony Corp. for about $4.9 billion. Yemenidjian, 49, is a di- Audemars Piguet store on 57th said of the design collaboration. power to the brand. rector of casino operator MGM Mirage, a position he has held Street here beginning in June. To take the idea of gift-with- In 2000, the firm teamed up since 1989. His election will be at Guess’ annual shareholder Already, 17 of the 100 watches purchase to a new level, a 40-giga- with Arnold Schwarzenegger meeting on May 10. have been sold. byte Apple iPod loaded with Jay- and created a chronograph for “They might be completely Z albums will be thrown in with “Terminator 3.” Bennahmias, ● TO A NEW SECTOR: Italian fashion and sport watch company sold out before the store even each watch. It also will be in- who is also friendly with singers Sector Group has named Gianni Pieraccioni as global chief ex- gets them,” Bennahmias said. scribed on the back and read, Alicia Keys and Usher, said he ecutive officer, replacing Lucio Quinzio Leonelli, who will re- Fifty watches will be offered “I’m so far ahead of my time, I’m has two celebrity athletes lined main president. Based in Milan, Pieraccioni was managing di- in stainless steel, 30 will be made about to start another life. Look up to do limited-edition watches rector of Johnson & Johnson’s personal and health care division for charity, as well, but he de- for seven years. He also held positions at Pepsico and Procter & clined to name them. Gamble. In the U.S., Sebastiano Di Bari has been promoted to “In the next two or three the new post of managing director of New York-based Sector years, we’ll be launching one or Group USA. Di Bari will lead U.S. operations and report to two pieces that will be associat- Pieraccioni. Di Bari joined the company in 2004 as executive ed with celebrities,” he said. vice president of finance and operations. Sector licenses in- Bennahmias said he has no clude Roberto Cavalli, Just Cavalli, Moschino, Valentino, United intention of extending Jay-Z’s Colors of Benetton and Sisley. THE TIGER COMPANIES limited-edition series into a full Tiger Button Co Inc - New York collection. “We’re good enough at Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong what we do to bring new collec- Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. tions of watches to the market Correction Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands every year,” he said. “The goals The location of Simon Property Group’s Firewheel Town Center Tiger Trimming Inc - New York here are to give back and cele- was incorrect in a story on page 17 of the Real Estate Review in brate. Boom, we go in, we sell it Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] WWD April 4. It’s in Garland, Tex. and we move on.” magine A Destination So Spectacular That Shoppersi Arrive By Cruise Ship, Private Jet, Puddle Jumper, Limo & Mega Yacht.

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Yacht Club & Marina • Luxury Retail Village • Boutique Hotel • Dream Office Space • Seaside Condos For retail leasing information, please call Jim DeWinter at CB Richard Ellis 212.370.7223 www.yachthavenusvi.com 4 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 WWD.COM Afschineh Latifi A TASTE OF HONEY Ever After NEW YORK — In the late summer of 2001, while she was working as David Remnick’s assistant at The New NEW YORK — Classic storytelling often begins on Yorker, Dana Goodyear overheard her boss say there a placid note, and builds up to a pivotal moment. weren’t enough young female poets writing for the But real life doesn’t always work out so neatly. magazine. Goodyear was at the time in her mid-20s, a Afschineh Latifi’s book, “Even After All This Time: woman and a writer of poetry since high school. She A Story of Love, Revolution and Leaving Iran,” hadn’t yet shared any of her work with her colleagues, opens with the 1979 assassination of her father, a save a few younger editors with whom she had a highly ranked military officer, at the hands of regular writers’ workshop. Ayatollah Khomeini’s soldiers—an event that “I felt that if I ignored that sign from God, I’d be understandably haunts the author to this day. self-defeating,” Goodyear recalls. “It emboldened me.” “You know how people always tell you, ‘Time So she submitted 10 poems to Alice Quinn, the heals everything,’ ” she says. “It really doesn’t. It’s magazine’s poetry editor. The wait for a response was you that has to start the healing process. All time excruciating. “Being so exposed, it felt like a year.” does is occupy your mind with other stuff, so But just a few weeks later, Goodyear arrived home to a maybe you don’t sit there and think about the loss message from Remnick: “I’ve got some poems from a every second of the day.” very gifted writer,” said the voice on her answering The book was written as a tribute to her mother, machine. “I’m going to take two of them.” Her first Fatemeh, who just turned 60. It tells the story of poem was published in the magazine shortly after 9/11. the family’s struggles to survive as they lived in Given poetry’s relatively narrow audience, it helps fundamentalist Islamic Iran after the death of the to have The New Yorker’s seal of approval. “It’s not a father, later moving to Europe and eventually genre that likes prodigies. It’s not like fiction that America. Born in Tehran the second of four way,” Goodyear says. “It’s fine to be 60 and finishing children (she has an older sister, Afsaneh, and two your first [poetry] book.” younger brothers, Ali and Amir), Latifi, 35, But the 28-year-old Goodyear didn’t want to wait narrates the tale with a mixture of distance and honesty. She describes her early separation from her mother at the age of 11, when she and her sister were sent off to Sacré Coeur boarding school in Austria before escaping to America (under the guise of a vacation) to live with their maternal uncle in Virginia Beach, Va. Her mother and brothers remained in Iran for an additional six years until 1986, when they left Iran for Paris. Now a partner in the boutique law firm Tucker & Latifi in New York, Latifi was approached by eye® publisher Judith Regan, whom she met at a dinner party in the Hamptons two summers ago, about writing a book. Latifi began the manuscript in January 2004 and took a mere nine months to complete it, even though she continued to work as a lawyer by day. Latifi first grew interested in the law in high school when her 17-year-old sister, with the help of a kindly attorney, became her legal guardian in the U.S. “It was my first real brush with the law because obviously I never thought my father had a proper legal trial, so I never thought there was anything legal about what was going on in Iran during the revolution,” she said. Much to the chagrin of her mother, who wanted a family of doctors (things worked out in the end, as both Afsaneh and Amir are doctors, while Ali is a lawyer), Latifi pursued her passion in college and her job now takes her to Asia a few times a year, where she participates in counterfeit busts with local police. As for upcoming trips to visit family in Iran, they are unlikely, particularly after the release of her book. But her mother, Amir and Ali all live in New York and the memories of her childhood experiences, particularly after reliving them in conversations with her mother, are still acutely fresh. “I think for both of us, the book has been extremely cathartic,” says Latifi. “You try and forget that all that stuff happened to you. You compartmentalize certain things. It was good to deal with it. And I’m still dealing with it. I don’t think I’ve come full circle — yet.” — Vanessa Lawrence

LOS ANGELES — Heather Howard knows a thing or two about stars behaving badly. As a personal assistant to OF HARPERCOLLINS VER COURTESY Hollywood’s A-list for over 20 years, she’s witnessed the good, the bad and the ugly, and lived to tell all in her first novel, “Chore Whore: Adventures of a Celebrity Personal Assistant,” published this month by HarperCollins. For anyone who’s ever perused the tabloid headlines and wondered how much of the sensational celebrity gos- sip is true, Howard simply says this: “They’re pretty on it. When I stand in lines and read those, I go, ‘Yeah, I was Dana Goodyear there for that...That’s true...That one happened.’” Of course, being a novel, each character is fictional, but over breakfast one recent morning at the aptly named until then. And after being rejected by nearly 10 Newsroom Cafe, Howard claims 90 percent of it is factual, including trips to buy publishers, “Honey and Junk,” her first book of guns for clients and even being asked to watch their threesomes. While she’s re- poetry, will be published by Norton this month. Many fused to name names throughout her two decades as a celebrity assistant, it’s of the poems in the book are about how the world can safe to say that the novel means her career is now in flux. be disrupted by a sudden loss, how everything “I don’t think my current job and the book are going to go down the same suddenly seems portentous. road together, so I’m planning to wrap up the personal assisting,” she notes. “As “For a period while I was working on some of the soon as I gave notice to some clients, the bargaining began, and they talked me poems in the book, I was much more aware of the into staying a few extra days. But I didn’t mention the book to most of them.” precariousness of our relationships and the fragility Howard, 42, literally stumbled upon her first job while she was a student at of being human,” Goodyear says. Still, “Honey and UCLA working part-time as a housekeeper. “I was emptying the garbage and a Junk” is rife with black humor. “It’s about their tone,” UCLA Bruin [the school paper] fell out and there was an ad that said, ‘TV star she adds. “Trying to rescue terrible situations with a looking for personal assistant.’ Apart from wanting to earn money, I wanted to sense of humor.” know who it was.” In January, Goodyear moved to Los Angeles, One job led to another and Howard’s reputation for being able to find the per- where she continues to contribute poetry and long- fect birthday present for Steven Spielberg and whip up the perfect vegan dinner form nonfiction to the magazine as well as edit such party garnered her an A-list clientele. Indeed, she juggled myriad heavy hitters at writers as Hilton Als, Caitlin Flanagan and Francine one time. She once turned down a job offer from Jennifer Aniston out of alle- du Plessix Gray. Adjusting her work to a sunny place giance to one movie star whom she’d been with for 12 years. But she found that where she’s “essentially very happy” has been easier loyalty isn’t exactly reciprocal in Hollywood: After once losing 60 percent of her income when said movie star than she expected. The poems she’s been writing ceased to give her any work, the former English Lit major began to consider the idea of a book. have been less personal and somewhat more “The voice inside started saying, ‘Is that what you want to do with your education? Use a toothbrush to scrape satirical. the dog poop off the bottom of peoples’ shoes and shop for edible underwear? If the National Enquirer is so inter- “I don’t imagine becoming a poet of California,” ested, why wouldn’t people be interested in a book about this job?’” she says. While Howard will miss the frequent Goodyear says, “but there’s so much new imagery in runs to Hermès, Armani and Harry Winston for her clients, she’s looking forward to a chore-free life, apart from the physical landscape. I just have to make sure I catering to the whims of her 10-year-old son. “What I’m doing right now, sitting here having breakfast, never used don’t get so domestic that I start writing about what I to happen. I’m finally ready for some me time.” cooked for dinner.” — Marshall Heyman

L.A. Confidential — Marcy Medina TIFI PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; “EVEN AFTER ALL THIS TIME” COVER COURTESY OF REGANBOOKS; GOODYEAR BY TYLER BOYE; “CHORE WHORE” CO TYLER BOYE; BY OF REGANBOOKS; GOODYEAR “EVEN AFTER MITRA; ALL THIS TIME” COVER COURTESY ROBERT TIFI PHOTO BY LA “Too much of a good thing is even better.” Mae West

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Elizabeth Fillmore Angel Sanchez Here Come The Brides NEW YORK — As bridal designers prepped their perpetual muse for her biggest, most beautiful day, bells sounded for a more stylish bride. The spring runway shows, held last week, featured several key trends — most notably lots of ribbons and bows.

Amsale Melissa Sweet WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 7 WWD.COM Reem Acra Carolina Herrera PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE, STEVE EICHNER AND JOHN AQUINO 8 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 Wedd i ng Monique Lhuillier Richard Tyler Bride Belles NEW YORK — Stylish brides will have more than the ubiquitous strapless to choose from next spring. Designers showed a variety of necklines, particularly halters, along with jeweled embellishments and intricate embroidery. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE, STEVE EICHNER AND JOHN AQUINO WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 9 WWD.COM

Anna Maier Ulla-Maija Couture All the Bride Moves NEW YORK — A wedding day free from surprises — such as the bride tearing her dress or the maid of honor spraining her ankle — is typically a very good thing. But the same cannot be said for the bridal business. Brides-to-be buying several wedding dresses each, bridesmaids dressing in mismatched colors and wedding gowns designed more in line with ready-to-wear trends are some of the more surprising moves underfoot, according to a dozen industry insiders. New York-based florist Nico De Swert, whose creations include the entire ambience, not just flowers, and can set back a bride and groom $40,000, said he has noticed that wedding dresses are more trend-driv- en. “They are much more sleek, modern and hip. It’s almost as though the wedding aisle is becoming a fashion runway,” he said. “They are re- ally changing in a positive way.” He was one of the trendsetters honored by Modern Bride last week at a dinner at the Ritz Carlton Battery Park. Another honoree, celebrity wedding photographer Terry deRoy Gruber, said one of his recent assignments made him do a double take. Aside from the 300-foot table the Cracker-Jack Wedding Planners set up for a reception in the New York Public Library, he was floored by the bride, who had eight outfits and changed four times. He did note that changing more than once was in keeping with the bride’s Moroccan heritage. But the lensman, whose company shoots 100-plus nuptials each year, has noticed more brides changing into different outfits. Vera Wang, another award winner, said she’s been struck by two Kenneth things — brides wearing more than one dress during the course of their Pool for weddings and receptions and destination weddings. Amsale Melania Trump and Tiger Woods’ wife, Elin Nordegren — two of the better-known brides she has dressed in the past year — did both. But all in all, more women are opting to have two or three dresses for the cere- mony, the reception and the send-off. Unlike Asian brides, who change for reasons related to their culture, “this is changing for a fashion show,” Wang said. Legends by Caterer Serena Bass said she raised an eyebrow at a Boston affair Romona Keveza she handled, where the bridesmaids wore all different colored dresses — some bright, some pale. “It looked a bit like a gaggle. You need a cer- tain amount of ceremony at a wedding,” she said. “I wouldn’t really rec- ommend it. Would you?” Bass said she was more impressed by a Manhattan wedding she catered. There was an extraordinary Balinese dance, a puppet perform- ance and singing. Karenna Gore, who presented a trendsetter award to Wang, said she is surprised by “how easy it is to get caught up in the wedding industry. The marketing is so intense even if you are not interested in these types of things. It’s important just to relax and enjoy yourself if possible.” Gore is passing along this advice to her sister Kristin who will be married in a few weeks on the family’s Tennessee farm, even though she hasn’t been heavily involved with the plans. Newscaster Ashleigh Banfield, another awards presenter who tied the knot last summer, said the legwork of planning a wedding can be a bit much. She wore a Laura Madrigano bodice, shawl and pants with a train for her nuptials on a yacht in a lake off a remote Canadian is- land. The clothes were a cinch compared with the logistics. “I was the wedding planner,” she said. “I had no idea there would be so much work involved.” Several designers and executives, who did not attend the Modern Bride dinner, chimed in about the changes sweeping wedding day fashion. Mara Urshel, president and owner of Kleinfeld, said bridal designers are putting the same kind of energy into their fashion shows that rtw de- Priscilla signers put into theirs, as evidenced by two shows last week. She ap- Lazaro plauded Reem Acra’s outdoor presentation at the Palace Hotel with models stepping out of antique cars as church bells rang and Monique Lhuillier’s elegant one at the Burden Mansion in Carnegie Hill. Oleg Cassini, who sells wedding gowns to David’s Bridal, said, “Slowly but surely, the bridal business is getting into the fashion arena. Today it is a fashion item of the first order. There is a lot of attractive clothing by totally unknown designers.” The company has sold 60,000 dresses that retailed for $1,000 or more, and this year’s goal is 100,000 units, he said. Preparing for the August retail launch of Legends by Romona Keveza, Keveza said, “What I find most surprising about the bridal busi- ness is how fashion forward it has become. We are seeing the same trends present in bridal and ready-to-wear at the same time.” Keveza, who also designs a more upscale bridal collection, expects Legends to generate $1.5 million in sales. The line consists of 14 silhou- ettes that make 64 outfits. Richard Tyler, who has stepped back from designing rtw and evening- wear to focus on wedding dresses and made-to-measure, agreed that peo- ple are spending money again on bridal. “They don’t mind spending the money, and dad foots the bill. They want something fantastic.” Brides-to-be aren’t shying away from Tyler’s retail price points, which range from $3,000 to $9,000. Ursula Hegewisch, co-owner of Wearkstatt, said brides are over- whelmed with so many choices that it is “really hard for them to make up their minds.” Customers are taking six months on average to make a purchase, whereas six weeks to two months was the norm a year ago, she said. Joseph Murphy, president and chief executive officer of JLM Couture, has seen a shift of a different kind. “There’s more of a separa- tion between the lower end and the higher end of the market. The mid- dle is just not there.” The change is due in part to mass-market brands knocking off de- signs from pricier collections, he said. JLM is trying to address the lack of middle-tier labels by introducing Occasions, a collection that will bow this fall and will wholesale from $500 to $625. — Rosemary Feitelberg 10 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 WWD.COM Growth Seen as a Must for New Neiman’s Owner

Continued from page one “To think about doubling the business in three to four to a source close to one of them: “Final bids are due no The Dallas years, it becomes a different game and a more fragile one,” later than April 29. Most likely there will be a decision flagship. said one Neiman’s supplier. The success of a big expan- by the second week of May.” sion depends on a lot of variables, including “the vagaries But whoever buys Neiman’s will be under enormous of taste, the health of the economy and the market pene- pressure to maintain and build on the significant growth tration of other luxury goods stores. There are just so the retailer has seen over the last few years. Higher rev- many variables. It’s not a slam dunk. Vendors tend to take enues and earnings will be required to support the huge it one market, one door at a time. It’s not automatic that investment, and for a financial buyer seeking to flip the they go into each market.” business for a profit, that means an accelerated expan- Bill Dreher, senior research analyst, broadlines, at sion is practically a certainty. Deutsche Bank Securities Inc., observed, “Neiman Industry experts say Neiman’s could tap many more Marcus stores overseas could work. Tourists are a very locations in the U.S., and begin opening stores overseas. important part of the customer base. The name is a “Neiman Marcus is the sleeping giant of luxury,” said world-class brand among the jet-setting community, and Steve Greenberg, president of the Greenberg Group retail Neiman would play very well in the major Western capi- real estate advisers. “They’re in so many markets, like tals of the world.” Boston, where they have one store downtown and never As far as doubling the store base, “we have a very diffi- went to the suburbs. In Chicago, there’s Neiman’s down- cult time imagining that,” Dreher continued. “Their very town and one in Northbrook. That’s not a lot of stores for high-end customer has an income that starts at $250,000 one of the biggest markets in America. There are 25 major annually. The average is higher, typically at $500,000 to markets in America, and Neiman’s only has 35 stores. $600,000 annually. Because those annual income levels are “I don’t think we need one in Pittsburgh, but you can only in isolated pockets of the country.” have second stores in a lot of major markets,” he contin- Dreher said Neiman’s Internet is one avenue where ued. “And why can’t there be a small Neiman’s in La Jolla PHOTO GEORGE BY HENSON the company can reach consumers who are not near a or Santa Barbara [Calif.] — smaller markets that are very, With the price tag on Neiman’s expected to top $5 bil- store, but 10 new stores a year, as some financial players very affluent? Neiman’s already seems to be picking off lion, “any group making that kind of investment will obvi- may be considering in their projections, is too optimistic. some of the smaller markets, particularly in Texas where ously want to see a bigger return, which is already a good “We would not expect Neiman’s to grow [its square the brand is so strong.” one,” said a former luxury retailer. “Certain financial peo- footage] to above 5 percent a year without jeopardizing Speculation on expanding Neiman’s heated up this ple are talking about opening 30 more Neiman’s. That its profitability. Even new formats, such as Saks and its month when an executive from Vornado Realty, at one would be the beginning of the end of a quality retailer. In smaller resort store, don’t always work. You have to time said to be among the firms that could invest in the re- a merchandising business, there’s a great deal of expert- weigh how much would one’s ability be to significantly tailer, estimated at a recent investor luncheon that the ise, details and knowledge about sizes, colors and styles improve sales and earnings.” The profitability, he noted, chain could double its store count. Several hedge funds, required. Bankers never know that. Maintaining steady resides in the larger boxes. who have done their own leveraged buyout models on growth, good gross margins and a reasonable expense To date, Neiman’s expansion has been disciplined and Neiman’s, said the brand could support up to 60 or 70 rate is a pretty good trick. To pump up the volume to justi- successful. Under Tansky’s management, about a store or stores, as reported. Based on their LBO models, doubling fy the price is not the way to go.” two has been opening annually. Seven stores are planned the store base would peg Neiman’s earnings before inter- Marvin Traub, the former Bloomingdale’s chairman through 2008 in San Antonio, and Boca Raton, Fla., this est, taxes, depreciation and amortization at $1 billion, and a consultant working on expanding brands and retail- fall; Charlotte, N.C., in fall 2006; Austin, Tex., and Oyster against the expected $500 million based on existing opera- ers overseas, believes: “In the United States and Canada, Bay, N.Y., in spring ’07; Natick, Mass., in fall ’07, and tions. For fiscal year 2004, total revenues were $3.55 billion there continues to be some emerging markets that Topanga in West Los Angeles in fall ’08. compared with $3.1 billion in the prior year. Net earnings Neiman’s can go in. They haven’t saturated the country.” Neiman’s is also expanding by increasing square were $205 million, compared with $109 million for fiscal Traub said he sees another 10 or 15 full-sized footage at high-volume locations. For example, the year 2003, which represents an increase of 87 percent. Neiman’s. Beyond that, “you would have to build small- 153,722-square-foot store in Lenox Square in Atlanta is However, others warn that any new owner of Neiman’s er stores, not something that’s 200,000 square feet.” getting a 52,000-square-foot addition, while units in has to be cautious about expanding the retailer too fast As for international markets, Traub said: “Trying to ex- North Park in Dallas and San Francisco also are being just to increase its sales. They worry that, under a finan- pand department stores overseas is very, very complicated. enlarged. cial owner, Neiman’s, one of the best-run and focused re- It would be best by licensing, the kind of thing that Saks is Whatever the strategy under a new owner, the focus tailers in the world, could become just another “numbers doing.” (Saks Fifth Avenue already opened stores in should be on keeping Neiman’s special, Greenberg ob- game” with an expansion program that waters down its Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and Dubai, United Arab Emirates.) served. “Neiman’s has these great touches that make the message of exclusivity and enters markets lacking the Still, “licensing is not hugely lucrative,” Traub customers feel very special. It starts with the popover and proper “psychographics.” added. “It’s difficult to make a major difference in earn- the broth at lunch and goes all the way down to the way “There could be a very big difference between what ings per share. The bigger advantage is the internation- they sell. Their salespeople are so gentlemanly and help- Burt Tansky [president and chief executive officer of al exposure it provides.” ful, and they dress so well. They write you a note after you Neiman Marcus Group] and friends have been doing and Neiman’s operating overseas is not far-fetched. It’s a buy something. They call you. They service the customer. what a financial group would want to do with Neiman’s,” well-known, world-class brand, and past managements of Neiman’s pays to get the best help. It’s the tradition of said Arie Kopelman, vice chairman of Chanel Inc. “They the retailer have examined foreign cities for possible Stanley Marcus. would want to get the numbers up in the medium term and Neiman’s and Bergdorf Goodman units. Asia, said retail “But if these banker types don’t leave the manage- sell the company, and that puts a lot of pressure on grow- sources, seems more likely for Neiman’s than Europe. ment alone and say, ‘We’ve got to look at the bottom ing the business. Hopefully, they would try to do it intelli- One reason is that Taubman Centers is forming Taubman line,’ I would be concerned that they forget about pro- gently, but in growing the business, you have to be very Asia to develop shopping centers in the Asia-Pacific re- viding the service for the customer. I’ve seen a lot of careful not to dilute what the company stands for. That gion. Five of the 22 Taubman regional centers in the U.S. venture capital companies buy retail companies and de- could be tempting when you broaden the base and go into house Neiman’s units, and three have Neiman’s outlets, stroy them along the way.” new markets.” known as Last Call. — With contributions from Vicki M. Young Retail Stocks Rebound After Market Plunge By Meredith Derby ket’s latest reverse, which began last Wednesday, follow- wait out the storm,” he wrote. ing a weaker-than-expected retail sales report from the Last week, for example, money within the stock NEW YORK — After three days of consecutive losses, government. market “flowed out of energy and basic material stocks both the S&P 500 and its related retail index rebounded The Commerce Department said on Wednesday that and into consumer and health care issues,” Nolte said. Monday as investors sought safe harbors from the storm. retail sales rose 0.3 percent in March compared with Yesterday, Penney’s shares added 2.3 percent in The S&P 500 gained 0.3 percent to close at 1,145.98, February, lower than the forecasted 0.8 percent gain. New York Stock Exchange trading, closing at $46.52, while the S&P Retail Index jumped 1.3 percent to 409.1. Specifically, sales at retail and accessories stores while shares of Nordstrom rose 1.5 percent to $53.31 Shares of J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Nordstrom Inc., Saks dropped 1.9 percent to $16.18 billion. and Saks shares closed at $17.86, up 2.2 percent. Inc. and Chico’s FAS were among the standouts. Nolte cited the Conference Board’s March 29 report, Chico’s shares swelled 5.9 percent to $26.28 after The Dow Jones Industrial Average, however, closed which said consumer confidence dropped to a reading the stock was upgraded to overweight from neutral Monday down 16.3 points, or 0.2 percent, to 10,071.25, of 102.4 in March from 104.4 in February, as an addi- weight by Prudential Equity Group LLC analyst Stacy which is still above its 52-week low of 9,708.4 reached tional source for the recent stock market weakness. Pak. Pak, who set a $30 price target for the stock, said on Oct. 25, 2004, but well below its 52-week high of Nolte also noted “deteriorating” trade figures. “We in a report that the specialty retailer “should be a 10,984.46 hit on March 7. are exporting into even weaker economies,” he wrote. core holding and that the weakness the shares expe- “As investors’ sentiment changed from worry about Nevertheless, Nolte cited consumer goods, along rienced over the past week provide an attractive interest rate increases to a slowing economy and just with health care and utilities, as the few sectors suit- entry point.” maybe a recession looming on the horizon, the equity able to invest in going forward should stocks become The analyst said the stock could be less sensitive to market adjusted — quickly,” wrote Paul Nolte, director more unreliable overall due to the macro environment. consumer spending weakness because the typical of investments at Chicago-based Hinsdale Associates, in “All three have the distinction of providing well above Chico’s customer has a “high income level and depend- a Monday note to clients. He was referring to the mar- market dividend yields — so we will be getting paid to able shopping habits.” WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 11 WWD.COM Te x t i l e & Tr a d e Report

Exhibitors at Intertextile Beijing were concerned about the threat of safeguard quotas being imposed on China’s exports. Mills Adapt to Trade Shift By Vicki Rothrock HONG KONG — As China’s apparel and textile exports soar, executives at the Inter- stoff Asia show were focused on finding ways to grow their companies, which have been freed of quota restrictions.

Much of the talk focused GARETH JONES PHOTOS BY on China, with some develop- Executives at last week’s Interstoff ing world officials dwelling Asia were digesting the effect of the on how to distinguish their in- end of quotas. dustries from Chinese competitors and others contemplating ex- panding into the world’s most populous nation. “Elimination of quotas means anyone is free to do business with anybody,” said Ken Loo, secretary general for the Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia. “We want to attract the buyers who are concerned about compliance.” A World Bank survey said buyers of Cambodian goods ranked compliance among their most important criteria, along with price, quality and speed, he noted. He said rather than focusing on China, Cambodia regards its main rivals as Bangladesh and Vietnam. The latter is not a World Trade Organization member and still faces quota restrictions. PHOTO BY DOUG KANTER PHOTO BY “Realistically, we don’t need to compete with China,” Loo said. For the year ended Jan. 31, Cambodia shipped $1.45 billion worth of fabrics and garments to the U.S., less than 10 percent of China’s volume. Loo acknowledged that Cambodia’s industry is Quota Concerns in China going through a “consolidation phase” and has lost about 26,000 garment jobs, representing almost 10 percent of the industry, since By Betsy Lowther tile companies formed in China in the past two the start of the year, when quotas were dropped by WTO members. years, industry experts said. Yan said it was at- From India, Michaeli Mesmer, vice president of marketing BEIJING — Chinese textile manufacturers are ex- tracting attention for its creative colors and splat- for Alok Industries, a $300 million maker of knits, wovens and pressing mixed opinions about the state of their ter-style patterns. embroidery, as well as a printer and dyer, said he hopes his na- industry more than three months into the post- “This is a good time to enter the textile market, tion’s industry will be able to rely on quality, innovation and de- quota era. but we’ve had this product in the works for a long sign. Mesmer said his company can’t compete with Chinese sup- Their main concern is that many buyers are time,” Yan said. “It’s been a real benefit to be a pliers when it comes to low-priced, high-volume runs, but has holding back because the U.S., the European unique brand right now. Because of this, we’ve had advantages in higher-quality goods. Union and other major importers may impose tem- a lot of interest in our company during the fair.” “Indian labor is a more informed, educated labor,” he said. porary safeguard restrictions on Chinese goods. While the glut of competition is the most press- Alok Industries has five factories near Mumbai. About 70 per- The U.S. is reviewing several safeguard cases and ing problem many companies said they are facing, cent of its sales are to the U.S., with the balance going to Europe. Turkey and Argentina already have imposed safe- others also expressed concern about possible Mesmer said he wants to develop local guard quotas. taxes, safeguards and antidumping legislation en- markets and eventually sell about 10 “Not much has changed since last year,” said acted by the EU or the U.S. Most of the fair’s ven- percent of his products to Indian con- Zhang Hong Shu, general engineer for the Bao dors spoke out against the possible restrictions, sumers. Lei Group, at the recent Intertextile Beijing which might severely limit the potential of their In 2005, the company is aiming to trade fair, which ended a three-day run on April post-quota prosperity. triple its overall operations with the 1. “Our number of orders has not increased. “A restrictive policy would affect all compa- end of quotas, high demand and We’ve found that foreign buyers are still very nies, not just the problem makers,” said Jimmy economies of scale, Mesmer said. Still, cautious. They’re worried about antidumping Zhang, a foreign trade department representative “You can’t take anything for granted,” regulations and safeguards, and they are waiting for Fuzhou Huaguan Knitting & Textile Co., based he said. to see what happens.” in Shaoxing. “Not every company in China is in- While competitors tend to regard The Wujiang-based company, which makes cot- tent on lowering their prices and flooding the China warily, the Chinese firms at the ton fabrics and sells about $25 million worth of market, and that has to be considered.” show, which wrapped up March 23, goods a year to the U.S., Europe and at home, has Many manufacturers said they have been hesi- Jin Young’s Devin Lee said his said they were faced with their own expanded its labor force and production equip- tant to invest heavily in more machinery and South Korean firm is looking challenges. ment to improve the quality of the fabrics it sells labor until the threat of restrictions has passed. at expanding into China. Tina Lee, marketing executive for rather than to meet demand, Zhang said. The Yu Yu Textile Co. of Shanghai hasn’t added Chinese yarn maker Huafu Group, “The competition among Chinese textile com- any more workers or equipment to its factory, but said, “To be frank, I’m not so confident about garment factories panies has greatly increased this year,” he said. instead has beefed up its sales team in an effort to in China.” “We have to constantly improve our product to gain more customers. She said labor costs are higher in China than countries such find a way to remain competitive.” The company “just started to see a very small as Vietnam, and China doesn’t have much international trade Many of the other Chinese textile manufactur- increase in orders, but we’re hoping a larger sales experience compared with Singapore, South Korea or Turkey. ers at the fair — representing more than 60 per- team will be able to improve on that,” said Alan “We have a lot to learn,” said Lee, adding that this is mostly a cent of the 560 exhibitors — echoed a growing Ran, a sales executive with the firm, which spe- concern for garment manufacturers and not for yarn suppliers. concern over the increased competition between cializes in cotton fabrics and man-made fibers. Huafu Group sells melange yarn to the circular knitting. The local textile companies, now all vying for a piece Ran said Yu Yu Textile wants to double its ex- company has 8,000 workers. of the post-quota profits. port sales — now 40 percent of its total business — Its new products at Interstoff Asia included a cotton yarn in “There have been a lot of new textile compa- by the end of this year. which 5 percent of the fiber was organically grown cotton and nies started here in the past few years,” said Fu Despite the anxiety that was an undertone of another yarn made from cotton and a soybean-based fiber. Guo Qing, president of Shaoxing Yonson Industry the fair, some exhibitors said they were pleased The blend of 60 percent soybean fiber and 40 percent cotton & Trade Co., which produces fabrics from man- with business in the post-quota era. is one of the company’s most expensive offerings because it’s made fibers, as well as cotton. “There is a lot of op- Joseph Chang, general manager of Unitex only recently been developed, said Michelle Sui, Huafu market portunity to make a profit in textiles following the (Shanghai) Material Corp., a Taiwan-based manu- development manager. She said the cost of the organic cotton end of quotas and many people are looking to take facturer specializing in embroidery and lace, said was also high, around $3.50 a pound. advantage of that.” he was glad that he joined the trend of Taiwanese The Huafu executives said their sales have risen 30 percent China’s overall exports were up 36.6 percent, textile enterprises that have relocated production since quotas were lifted on Jan. 1, though they attributed the to $95.28 billion for the first two months of 2005, to China. The company moved part of its manufac- growth to changes in strategy as much as the change in trade according to the Chinese Ministry of Commerce. turing unit to Shanghai almost two years ago to regulations. The company now spends more time working di- Analysts estimate that the bulk of that growth is take advantage of China’s cheaper costs and more rectly with designers and other end-customers to promote de- coming in textiles and apparel. complete supply chain. mand for its yarn. Manufacturers are turning to distinctive prod- “Before [we came to China], our orders were Devin Lee, manager at South Korea’s Jin Young, said if the ucts as a way to stand out from the growing smaller,” he said. “The expansion has allowed us lace and knitted fabric manufacturer had a chance, it would crowd. Yan Xin Ning, general manager of to do more bulk orders than in the past. We were move some of its manufacturing operations to China or Vietnam. Dandong Unik Textile Co. of Dandong, brought able to increase our sales 12 percent in the first Jin Young, which has 150 employees and 45 machines, could the company’s new dyed-denim line to the fair for year and are projecting an additional 12 to 16 produce more at lower prices in China, Lee said. However, he the first time and said she was pleased with the percent growth this year. And since the end of expects the company to grow beyond its $2.5 million annual response it received. quotas, we’re seeing more overseas buyers than sales, despite the troubled economy in South Korea. Dandong Unik is one of thousands of new tex- ever before.” 12 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 WWD.COM In Transit Shipowners Seek Greek Magnate Sees Growth By John Zarocostas

PIRAEUS, Greece — The dramatic growth in China’s economy as well as Asian business in general will likely keep demand for freight capacity high, said the Major Price Hikes president of the world’s largest group of shipowners. “We’re looking forward to a sustained market,” Nicos D. Efthymiou, presi- By Scott Malone dent of the Union of Greek Shipowners, said in an interview. He predicted that in the absence of any major shocks to the global economy, NEW YORK — Negotiations between importers and ocean carriers on next year’s ship- rising world trade will continue to spur growth in the shipping industry. ping contracts are at a critical point with little time left. Greece is ranked the world’s top merchant shipping power, with 3,112 Greek- Citing rising imports, congested ports and high fuel costs, steamship companies are owned vessels under national or foreign flags accounting for a 20 percent share trying to push through a range of price increases and surcharges that might drive up of global merchant shipping, according to estimates from the United Nations. the cost of shipping goods from Asia to the U.S. by as much as 50 percent on certain Greek-owned ships constitute 56 percent of the European Union fleet. routes during the peak season. Greek shipping income last year contributed $17.5 billion to the national Most new annual shipping contracts will take effect on May 1. economy, up from $11 billion in 2003. The 13 carriers that participate in the Transpacific Stabilization Agreement are Speaking in his office in the port of Piraeus, outside Athens, Efthymiou said as pushing for increases of $285 on each standard 40-foot container, known as an FEU, China becomes more integrated with the world economy shipping to China has shipped from Asia to the West Coast, $350 per FEU on shipments that go on from the evolved into more of West Coast to inland points via road or rail and $430 per FEU for shipments that go to a two-way enterprise. the East Coast from Asia through the Panama or Suez Canals. In the past, ships ar- The group is also recommending that its members seek $400 peak-season sur- rived in China large- charges for containers arriving between June 15 and Nov. 30, and this month called for ly empty and left additional $115 to $165 per-container surcharges for goods going through the Panama packed with con- Canal, on top of the suggested $430 boost, because of extra fees being charged by the sumer goods, but now canal authorities that are going toward enlargement of the canal. they are more likely While carriers don’t disclose their base charges publicly, studies have shown that to arrive loaded with the cost of shipping a container across the Pacific runs between $1,500 and $2,000. raw materials and Importers are complaining that the proposed price hikes are difficult to bear, given other supplies for the stagnant retail prices. expanding economy. “We feel that these increases have to be modified…brought down to a more reason- In its most recent able level,” said Hubert Wiesenmaier, executive director of the American Import annual report, the Shippers’ Association, a trade group that negotiates freight rates on behalf of its esti- shipowners’ group mated 200 small- to midsize corporate members. “Our particular problem is always said that strong de- The Port of Piraeus. that our members are wholesalers and it’s not so easy to pass on any cost increases to mand in China and Wal-Mart or Target. They’re getting it from both ends.” India contributed “significantly” to the industry’s recent growth and intensified pres- A spokesman for the TSA said it has taken a while for negotiations to take on sure to raise freight rates. In 2003, the most recent year for which full data was avail- any urgency. able, the volume of cargo handled by Chinese ports rose 35 percent, the group noted. “Now you’re starting to really see things pick up and move along,” Wiesenmaier Efthymiou said changes in global security requirements have placed greater said. “Up until fairly recently, it was slow going.” economic pressure on ocean carriers. “I can’t put a figure on the actual costs,” He noted that many negotiators were waiting to get a sense of how heavily congest- he said. ed ports along the U.S. West Coast would be through the summer and fall peak season. The association believes the security culture developing in maritime trans- The TSA’s suggested rate increases are a throwback to the era when contracts were port “should not disturb the free flow of commerce,” Efthymiou said, adding public record, allowing small companies to receive the same pricing as their bigger ri- that his group has lobbied European Union authorities to ensure that the rising vals. The Ocean Shipping Reform Act of 1999 allowed carriers and shippers to negoti- security costs, which his group believes should be incurred by governments, ate confidential contracts. “should not be charged to the shipping industry.” This year the group has justified its proposed boosts by pointing to the surge in He said that would be important “to avoid distortion of trade between the shipments from Asia to the U.S. — the trade is projected to grow by 10 percent to 12 U.S. and EU.” percent this year, to a total of 5.8 million FEUs. The growth has been challenging the U.S. and EU authorities have made strong steps toward harmonizing their se- world’s trade infrastructure, as evidenced by the backups at West Coast ports such as curity standards, which helps to smooth the way for carriers, Efthymiou said. Los Angeles and Long Beach, Calif., the past two years.

benefit of those extra touches is the ris- ing price point on clothing, another in- Premium Focus Drives L.A. Fabric Show centive for contemporary lines to keep By Nola Sarkisian-Miller with the comparative strength of the euro heaping on the embellishments. against the dollar marking up their wares. California’s explosive contemporary LOS ANGELES — A focus on high-end On Monday, a dollar bought 77 euro cents, market also lured back lace house fabrics for the contemporary market down from 83 euro cents a year earlier. Klauber Bros., which hadn’t attended kept booths busy at this month’s Los Still, several European executives said the show in about seven years. In its Angeles Textile Show. they were overcoming the price pressures. sixth generation, the family-run mill in Buyers were on the lookout for tex- “California is starting to feel like it New England was finding designers in- tiles to accentuate high-end apparel needs better fabrics,” said Diane Hayon, terested in its allover Chantilly and lines, from metallic, rich fabrics such as U.S. sales rep for the Italian company Cluny laces with a crocheted effect, both textured jacquards to fresh styles of Ritmotex. “Price isn’t as big of an issue geared to dresses and tops. denim with stripes and pigment coatings. as it was in the past.” Toray Ultrasuede America showed Designer Rami Kashou, who normal- The firm showed denim finished with products from Ultrasuede flip-flops to ly creates elaborate, body-skimming gold and metal-coated stretch cotton purses, as well as new metallic-coated looks in somber colors, said he had fabrics with beachy stripes. fabrics, those with crinkle effects and picked up some silk chiffon and geor- Carlo Bonomi, a mill near Milan, laminated styles. gette prints at the show. made its first appearance at the show, “We’re seeing people in the apparel “It’s a big departure for me, but color hoping to woo shoppers with its pre- and accessories industries, those spe- is where the market and mood is head- washed fabrics in corduroy and stretch cializing in Western gear and also de- ed,” he said. cottons geared for garment-dying, as signer consultants,” said Wendy Medina, While Kashou was ready to buy, the well as striped cotton and linen blends. marketing manager. designers behind EmilyNoelle, a con- “We figure, if you have a good prod- Other fabric vendors at the show said temporary line launching for fall, said uct, people will pay for it,” said sales they’d boosted business by expanding Larger-format scene prints in cotton and they were “browsing for inspiration.” rep Fabio Pariani. into offering full-package garment pro- mesh were new looks at Sprintex. “The Italian fabrics were amazing — The company met with designers such duction services. there were probably 100 things we could as William Beranak, who was looking for up included large-format scenic prints Robert Kaufman Co. had boosted its buy,” said Emily Kersman, co-owner of high-end textured fabrics in muted colors in spice tones. offering of cotton fabrics in conversation- the line. Still, “at $40 a meter, it’s out of and linens for his year-old Nickel jacket Baroque and African-styled mesh- al prints, stripes, retro prints and roman- our price range,’’ she said. “But you line. The designer shut down his other beaded appliqués were popular with de- tic florals by adding full-package busi- never know.” contemporary line, Deb-el-yu, last October. signers at Claudia Magness & ness under the name Arkayic Clothing. The European firms that made up French firm Sprintex showed skirt Associates. John Malone Textiles car- “It’s become a business we don’t have to about 10 percent of exhibitors were swim- prints made as semicircles to ensure the ried braided trims, bright-colored laces pursue,” said sales representative Ron ming against the current economically, downward flowing pattern. Its fall line- and beaded appliqués. Malone said one Kaufman. “It’s coming to us.” PORT PHOTO BY FAYEZ NURELDINE/GETTY IMAGES; SPRINTEX BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO NURELDINE/GETTY IMAGES; SPRINTEX BY FAYEZ PHOTO BY PORT Serious shoppers require superior retail transportation &logistics.

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From purchase order to product delivery, make P&O Nedlloyd’s fully-integrated supply chain network and North American store delivery program your competitive advantage. 14 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Reality Bites: Grubman’s TV Trials By Jacob Bernstein Allen Grubman, Lizzie’s father, who happens to be the believable to watch someone actually plant a nasty goliath of New York entertainment attorneys. Others item.” Sloane vowed never to send any of her clients to NEW YORK — Lizzie Grubman, the tank top-wearing said they wanted to avoid piling on. a Grubman event again. publicist who went to jail for mowing down 16 people “The show’s going to be canceled,” one predicted. Amusingly enough, Page Six did not even run the outside a Long Island nightclub, is back where all fallen “Why bother?” item Grubman tried to plant. According to multiple women currently belong — on reality television. And Plus, she added, Lizzie is “a friend.” sources in the p.r. industry and at the New York Post, while the ratings of her show, “PoweR Girls,” were The same publicist then launched into a monologue Grubman had had a newsroom fatwa placed on her by lower than low, all of public relations have apparently about how the show was ludicrous, a “totally unrealistic” Page Six editor Richard Johnson and New York Post ed- been watching. “It’s a funny car crash,” is how one vet- portrayal of what running an agency is like. “She’s going itor in chief Col Allan after she told New York eran flack put it, in a bit of choice wording. to the gym and buying dresses in the middle of the day be- Magazine, in a profile on her last month: “The Post On the show, which had its first season finale on fore premieres? I can tell you that would never happen at would never hurt me. I’m totally in bed with the Post.” MTV last week and a future that is in limbo, the cam- my agency. When you have a big event you work in the of- The sin was not in shacking up, but in talking about it. eras rolled as Grubman schooled four pretty junior fice from 10 in the morning until well after midnight.” There was some truth to the statement — Grubman is a staffers on the ins and outs of the p.r. business. We Many of Grubman’s colleagues said they wouldn’t go on close friend of Page Six reporter Paula Froelich. watched her disparage her own clients, plant items in the record for exactly the same reason they thought she According to people who should know, the p.r. princess the gossip columns and run out of the office before shouldn’t be doing the show: That a p.r. person’s is “a major source of gossip” for the Post, a New York Fashion Week for emergency Botox injec- job is to guard the spotlight, not walk into it. Sydney Falco-like character who regularly tions. During each episode, some small mini-drama “This is our business’ equivalent of barters nasty items about nonclients in among the little helpers caused Grubman to fret solici- when the inmates start running the exchange for favorable coverage of her tously that they lacked the “focus” to be in p.r., but un- prison,” said another well-known p.r. own events and clientele. But just as like “The Apprentice,” no one got eliminated at the end strategist. “My philosophy is step every good reporter knows not to re- of each episode and Grubman didn’t ever go so far as to out of the frame. If you can get veal his sources, good p.r. is know- lose her famous temper. Indeed, if there was anything press, you get it for your client.” ing how to plant an item without it to be gleaned from the show, it was that had chewing Even Zarem, who consented to coming back to bite the p.r. person gum and Marlboro Lights only been invented sooner, speak for attribution, agreed with or the journalist. (Take, for exam- the world might never have needed Buddhism. All this, that basic principle. He asserted ple, the gratuitous not-for-attribu- and Grubman seemed to have turned into a master elo- that the entire point of p.r. is to tion sources cited in this story.) cutionist. make the client look like they don’t Last week, the folks at Page Six “I think the problem is that they cleaned her up,” said need p.r. — that they are so incredi- exacted their revenge for Grubman’s her former employer, Nadine Johnson. “They obviously bly talented, having a mouthpiece is indiscretion. It did not take much hired a diction coach to get rid of her ‘New Yawk’ accent, nothing more than a mere formality. “If work. On Tuesday, Grubman had attend- and now she sounds like an old socialite. It’s no fun.” you have class and taste and intelligence ed a dinner in celebration of Froelich’s The p.r. people who work the same circuit as and you’re friends with them, you just don’t do new book, “It! 9 Secrets of the Rich and Grubman are hardly in a refined business, but even the [a show like this]. That’s why I didn’t write a book.” Lizzie Famous That Will Take You to the Top,” and ar- most hard bitten of them were taken aback by the very Responding to her critics, Grubman said she Grubman rived with one Chris Stern, an executive from existence of her MTV show and by her demeanor on air. thought her colleagues ought to get a sense of Sean John, the clothing line owned by rapper- Meanwhile, p.r. people who consider themselves in a humor. “I think p.r. people are taking this way too seri- turned-clothing designer Sean “P. Diddy” Combs. The fol- different business than Grubman were upset by how the ously,” she said Monday. “We made a fun show for kids on lowing day, Page Six ran a fairly innocuous item on the show portrayed the craft of p.r. Entertainment p.r. whiz MTV where we go backstage at fashion shows and show party and quoted Grubman as saying of her guest: “Right Bobby Zarem said that on “PoweR Girls,” as in real life, how parties are put together. We don’t show our many now, MTV says I can’t have a boyfriend, so Chris and I are Grubman seemed to conflate event planning with real corporate clients. We don’t give away trade secrets.” just best friends.” p.r. strategy. “The young girls that do parties today have Nevertheless, another publicist, speaking anonymous- The day the item hit, Page Six was deluged with not realized that this is just a tiny part of what a p.r. ly, took specific issue with Grubman for an episode in phone calls. Did they know, inquiring parties wondered, campaign has to be,” he said. “I don’t dislike Lizzie, but which she called Page Six to try and peddle an item that Stern was, in fact, the husband (perhaps separated, throwing a party for Ja Rule’s album is not the thing about a party thrown by a client. When Page Six didn’t perhaps not) of one of Grubman’s employees? They did that makes him go to number one.” bite, Grubman then tried to get ink for the event by ridi- now. “Lizzie Cozy with Aide’s Hubby,” Friday’s Page Six Still, few of Zarem’s colleagues wanted to go on the culing one of the guests — teenage starlet Lindsay Lohan, headline read. Words used to describe her by a source in record. who had covered her head with her coat to avoid the pa- the piece included “disgusting” and “despicable.” Stern’s “I cannot talk to you about this,” one prominent en- parazzi. Grubman told Page Six Lohan was being a brat. wife, reached in Grubman’s offices Thursday afternoon, tertainment publicist said. Then she whispered conspir- “You don’t trash people who come to your events,” “sobbed” as she told the Post: “I [only] knew they were atorially into the phone: “My assistant says, ‘It’s an em- said her competitor. “It’s a fireable offense. She should friends.” Grubman denied being a “homewrecker.” Page barrassment to our entire industry.’ Don’t quote me!” have learned not to do that in P.R. 101.” Six said punishingly, “It isn’t the first time.” Several publicists said they preferred not to com- The day after that segment aired on MTV, Lohan’s As the metaphor suggests, there can be more than one ment because of relationships between their clients and publicist, Leslie Sloane, told the Daily News, “It was un- kind of car crash.

FREEDOM OF SPOOF: Good news for all of those who LUNCHROOM POLITICS: Michael’s was littered with print and television notables on view the right to ridicule your boss as a First Monday — even more so than usual. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour was kept Amendment issue: A New York State Supreme Court waiting by her lunch companions, the father-and-son team Martin and Jonathan Norton MEMO PAD judge has batted down American Media Inc.’s attempt of jewelers S.J. Phillips in London, who arrived late. But instead of plopping down in to quash an unpublished novel by Stephanie Green, a the vestibule and reading Gotham like a lesser Michael’s patron, Wintour — sunglasses former researcher at Star magazine. Green’s book, “Dishalicious,” is about a celebrity firmly on — headed over to Barbara Walters’ table for a friendly chat. In doing so — tabloid whose nasty editor, Penny Saxe, is clearly meant as a stand-in for Bonnie Fuller, perhaps intentionally, perhaps not — she failed to greet her direct predecessor at Star’s real-life editorial director. AMI, which owns Star, filed a motion for pre-action Vogue, Grace Mirabella, who was seated at the next door table. discovery in November, arguing that it needed a copy of the manuscript to determine Wintour also had a noticeable effect on the magazine’s current fashion news and whether Green had breached the confidentiality or non-disparagement clauses in her features editor, Sally Singer, who was there dining with Robert Burke of Bergdorf Goodman contract. In a decision handed down last week, Judge Joan Madden rejected AMI’s and Style.com’s Candy Pratts Price. Singer’s posture immediately improved the second arguments, saying the publisher “has not met its burden of demonstrating that it has a she saw her boss. Vogue and Style.com, like WWD, are units of Advance Publications Inc. potential cause of action.” An AMI spokesman responded, “We have confidence in our Walters, long of ABC, had a big hug for NBC’s Tom Brokaw, who was lunching position and intend to file an appeal.” elsewhere in the restaurant. And ensuring that all three of the major networks were Green, who’s been waiting for more than six months to resume shopping the 300- well-represented, CBS had Lesley Stahl in the room. — S. J. page manuscript, said her next move will be to find an agent. “I think American Media, when they brought this case against me, thought I would just roll over and play TURN THE PAGE: For The New Yorker, which has changed less in 80 years than some dead,” she said. “I suspect this could actually be advantageous for many writers who magazines do in 80 days, even a minor transformation is cause for comment. This week’s issue wish to use material that’s inspired by their own real-life experiences.” All you editors brings a new permanent back-page feature, a cartoon caption contest, as well as a in chief better get ready for the roman à clefs now. — Jeff Bercovici redesigned “Goings On About Town” section. The contest, which invites readers to submit a punch line for an ambiguous drawing, has been a staple of the magazine’s annual cartoon CAMERA SHY: Irving Penn famously doesn’t like being honored, even skipping last year’s issue. The last one drew more than 10,000 entries, according to editor David Remnick. Though CFDA Awards to avoid picking up his Eleanor Lambert trophy. The International Center The New Yorker (which, like WWD, is part of Advance Publications Inc.) can sometimes of Photography is the latest to find out about Penn’s aversion. It had offered him their seem enamored of its own history, it can’t afford to live in the past, said Remnick. “A magazine 2005 Infinity Award for lifetime achievement, but the photographer declined, his is not a museum. If we didn’t make changes, we’d still look like we did in 1925.” — J.B. studio confirmed. “He doesn’t really like awards,” said an associate. The ICP now will give the Infinity to another famed photographer, Bruce Weber, who BEAUTY ON THE MOVE: Harper’s Bazaar didn’t have to look far to find a replacement for will accept it on May 10 at Skylight Studios, with Ralph Lauren presenting and Renée departing beauty director Kerry Diamond, who’s leaving to become vice president of Zellweger serving as co-chair. While Weber wasn’t their first choice this year, a member public relations for Lancôme. Alexandra Parnass is moving over from sister title Shop of ICP pointed out that “he’s been on the list [of candidates] consistently. And that’s Etc., where she held the same position. Parnass previously worked with Bazaar editor not a very long list.” — Sara James in chief Glenda Bailey at Marie Claire. She starts May 16. — J.B. GRUBMAN PHOTO BY RICK MACKLER/GLOBE PHOTOS RICK MACKLER/GLOBE GRUBMAN PHOTO BY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND JOHN CALABRESE

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For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 16 WWD,TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 WWD.COM CEOs, Designers Fete Traub at 80 NEW YORK — In his 80 years, Marvin Traub has scaled same kind of energy, and his great-great-grandfather the heights of retailing, so it was fitting that he chose took his fifth wife at the age of 78, he said. the Rainbow Room, with its panoramic views of New Whatever the secret, Traub showed signs of excel- York City, to celebrate his birthday. lence even as a young man, friends said. Allen Questrom, Evelyn and Leonard Lauder, Michael Edward Meyer, chairman, president and ceo of the Gould, Dawn Mello, Jane Elfers, Paul Charron and Ricky Grey Global Group, said he and Traub started working at and Ralph Lauren were among the guests who turned out Bloomingdale’s around the same time. But after three Friday night to toast the former chairman and chief exec- years, Meyer departed. “I thought, ‘What am I hanging utive officer of Bloomingdale’s. Traub said he is proudest around here for? This guy is going to be chairman,’” of three things — his wife and family, mentoring col- Meyer recalled. leagues, and making some impact on the industry globally. Many years later, when Traub was named “The best part about Marvin is that he is always going Bloomingdale’s chairman and ceo, Meyer said he wrote somewhere,’’ Questrom said. “Every time I sit down with him a note that read, “Marvin, congratulations. I want you him for breakfast he says he has to catch a plane to to know I knew then you would be chairman, and I left.” Russia, China or some place I have never heard of.” Allen Questrom Traub wrote back, “Dear Ed, Thanks for making it easy.” Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo Inc., recalled and Paul Charron Meyer said, “How’s that for gracious?” a 48-hour trip to Europe with Traub and a 20-year-old flank Marvin Traub Lauren, who went the more casual route with jeans, business associate last year. “After 24 hours, I was ex- at the Rainbow a tuxedo jacket and a new spring beard, said of Traub, hausted, the 20-year-old was beyond exhausted, and Room celebration. “I have known him for 35 years and have worked with PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER Marvin just kept on going.” him for many years. He is one of the people I most re- Guest after guest mentioned Traub’s enormous ener- sus emerged that it was before sunrise. spect in my years in fashion and business.” gy, which some attributed to early morning workouts Traub, president of Marvin Traub Associates Inc., Ricky Lauren added, “There is a sense of family he with a personal trainer. There was some dispute about chalked up his good health to the luck of the genetic brings — beyond his own family — into business.” just what time these workouts start, but a bit of consen- draw. His mother, who once ran Bonwit Teller, had the — Rosemary Feitelberg Varvatos: Trading Spaces Trio New York Returns to the Dress Scene A look from By Arthur Friedman To Build Presence in SoHo the new Trio New York NEW YORK — Trio New York is back in business after a NEW YORK — John Varvatos’ men’s wear business is siz- collection. two-year hiatus. zling in SoHo and his women’s wear line may benefit. The husband-and-wife team of Steven Garfield and Var vatos plans to move his men’s business from its Judith Lowe relaunched the label with a new partner for 2,800-square-foot store at 149 Mercer Street to a 5,200- spring. square-foot space at 124 Spring Street, a prime loca- “We took a good, long look at the dress business and tion occupied by Ferragamo. The designer is also felt the time was right to be back in the market,” Garfield thinking about converting the Mercer Street store into said. “Our kind of classic contemporary dresses seems to a women’s boutique. be a good area right now.” Sales at the Mercer Street store are $2,400 a Trio New York offers day and evening dresses, as well square foot, said the designer, who is nominated for as related sportswear pieces such as silk and cashmere Menswear Designer of the Year by the Council of cardigans. Fashion Designers of America. Garfield said the line has gotten off to a good start, but Var vatos’ collection for women includes tailored conceded that business is challenging in the department pieces, soft dressing, jeans, casual sportswear, shoes store segment, given the planned acquisition by Federated and handbags and is sold in the designer’s Las Vegas, Department Stores of May Department Stores Co. and the Los Angeles and Short Hills, N.J., locations, and at amount of store space taken by labels owned by Jones Scoop here. Apparel Group and Liz Claiborne. “In April, so far, we’re up 105 percent over last He said distribution for the line, which was 11 years old year,” Varvatos said. “Year-to-date we’re running 35 when former owner Leslie Fay shut it down, is planned to percent ahead of last year. We’ve been running be- be split evenly between department stores, specialty stores tween 35 and 50 percent increases a year.” and making private label goods. Garfield projects sales of The Mercer street store opened in October 2000. $7.5 million for fall through the end of 2006. The Varvatos brand, which is owned by VF Corp., The couple is in a partnership with Frank Lau, owner of does $50 million in wholesale and retail sales, Sunnon-Sunnex, which is based in Hong Kong with factories sources said. in China. Garfield noted that Trio has reestablished its fac- Ferragamo put its space on the market in toring agreement with Rosenthal & Rosenthal. The firm’s September, citing favorable real estate market condi- new showroom is at 230 West 38th Street, on the 16th floor. tions. “This is an advantageous moment to entertain For fall, Lowe uses “daytime luxe” as inspiration for a offers,” Mossimo Ferragamo, chairman of the U.S. af- collection filled with lush colors such as chestnut, teal, filiate of the Florentine luxury house, said at the berry and pumpkin in richly textured fabrics including time. “This is a real estate opportunity, independent velvet, brocade, chiffon, matte satin and lace. from the retail business.” Wholesale prices range from $89 for a strapless shantung Prada, Bottega Veneta, Chanel and Burberry full-skirted cocktail dress to $149 for a brocade evening coat. opened stores in SoHo in 2000 and 2001. Cartier, Yves Beginning with the spring 2006 collection, Trio New Saint Laurent, H. Stern and Ermenegildo Zegna also York will add sportswear under the T-NY label. It will made commitments to the neighborhood, but either carry higher prices and plans are to produce the line occupied their spaces briefly or never moved in. domestically. T-NY will feature a range of seasonless day- — Sharon Edelson into-evening separates.

she said, angling for space in Albertine’s doorway. “It was a great chance for everyone to showcase their work.” The Village People Meanwhile, co-host and Albertine customer Victoria Traina made a brief appearance in a black-and-white NEW YORK — Two downtown boutiques and warm spring Christina Hattler gown. “There are designers here you weather were reasons enough for Kyung Lee to celebrate can’t see anywhere else,” she said. on Thursday, when she held a packed cocktail party — Miami-based Hattler flew in for the event, but ended up complete with keg beer and spiked ice tea — at Claudine spending the beginning of the evening mending a dress. and Albertine, her two West Village stores located just She later mingled with actress Elisabeth Waterston, in a steps away from each other on Christopher Street. The Kathy Kemp halter dress, and clothing designer Liz pastel-painted salons stock sexy, feminine dresses, glass McClean, who moonlights as a stylist for Maggie locket necklaces and hand-knit sweaters — all designed by Gyllenhaal and Drea de Matteo. fashion up-and-comers. As partygoers drifted back and forth between the tiny Christina Hattler, Andrea Breuckner, Many of the designers that Lee carries, such as stores, Lee explained that Albertine and Claudine’s Kyung Lee and Wendy Bassin. Joanna Baum, Katharine Sise and Andrea Breuckner, monikers come from the names of two of the three sisters turned up at the fete. Rather than play favorites, howev- in Otto Preminger’s film, “Bonjour Tristesse.” said, hinting that she may already be thinking about her er, Lee opted to wear a vintage, floor-length black-and- So will there be a boutique named after the third sis- next venture. gold dress. “I wanted to do a creative, communal thing,” ter, Leontine? “I’m saving that for a lifestyle store,” Lee — Jamie Rosen PHOTO BY ZACK SECKLER A business information tool to rely on. These companies use it daily.

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Expanding prestigious 7th Avenue design house has the following exciting 244 & 246 Mulberry Street opportunities available: 2,000 sf.- 4,000 sf. available Retail Space Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 DESIGNERS: Join a dynamic, fast paced design team. Work directly www.dumann.com with designer in developing collections from concept to finished product. Must be detail oriented with excellent organizational and computer skills in 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $14.00 addition to creativity, knowledge of international fashion trends, color, textiles 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in and consumer sensibilities. Travel required. Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 PRODUCTION MANAGER: Requires a minimum of 8-10 years expe- For Space in Garment Center Merchandise/Production Manager (NYC) rience in a fast paced environment, excellent computer skills, aggressive Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 3+ years of Production Control experience including sales follow-up with mills and overseas factories. Must be a team leader and be 212-880-0414 analysis and forecasting. Will work with sales team and able coordinate production to meet tight shipping schedules. Showroom / Office / Retail factories to place production and insure timely delivery for Excellent salary and benefits. We find you space-best deal-no fee both replenishment and future requirements. Requires good sublet 525 7th/ready Fax: 212-944-0320 / E-mail: [email protected] Garment Center Real Estate communications skills, knowledge of Excel & Word. Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Knowledge of Footworks software preferred. PRODUCTION Pvt apparel co seeks production Showrooms & Lofts LADIES person with min 5 yrs work exp, strong BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Customer Service Representative (NYC) understanding of wovens & knitted Great ’New’ Office Space Avail MERCHANDISER sportswear, excellent follow up skills ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 DESIGNER - Children’s Knowledge of Footworks software preferred. in all phases of prod’n. Bi-Lingual Senior level executive for Chinese, good English a must. PC Award winning North CA children’s Working knowledge of Excel and Outlook. sales & product development Literate, hard working & refs. Fax clothing company is searching ladies/juniors knitwear. resume/salary Req to: 212-354-2661 for an experienced designer to Merchandise Coordinator (Boston area) 50 Million, GI Apparel, Wall NJ & NYC Receptionist join our established team. Ideal Visit major department stores; report on sales, product Growing Outerwear Co seeks energetic [email protected] individual for reception. Must be com- W 39th & Broadway candidate will have exp w/ the placement, and re-organize stock. Experience preferred. puter literate and have Garment Center Showrooms/Offices experience. Fax resume: 212-714-0449 View of Bryant Park specialty boutique market, with 1705, 2800, & 4600 Sq. Ft. Louis Zimbaro VP 212-889-7460 focus on newborn thru toddler in Fax resume with salary history and requirements to: Retail Planner Joseph P. Day Realty Corp. both boys/girls. Strong graphics 212-246-6837 or e-mail to [email protected] Jr. Showroom Asst / Apparel manufacturer seeks retail planner to develop seasonal merchandising plans, orientation & skill w/construction EOE Receptionist analyze sales and determine trend is necessary. Knowledge of Illus- High-end European Fashion Company analysis. Monitor flow of inventory to seeks an energetic indiv for full time. warehouses and stores. Must possess trator & ability to create from DESIGNER Please Fax resume to: 212-764-1199; excellent analytical skills and be BUYER E-mail: [email protected]; proficient in Excel & Access. Wal-mart concept to completion - while Moderate/Updated Sportswear Leading apparel co. seeks individual to manage design process for its tween Mail: 530 7th Av. # 2402 NY, NY 10018 experience, retail link, CPFR, & DPF are New Jersey based national retail chain a plus. Please include salary requirements. benefiting from input from design with 30+ stores. Previous experience girls sizes 4-16 product. Will work closely Honduras Factory with sales & merchandisng team. Min. LICENSING MGR. Fax resume to: 212-971-2277 Honduras Apparel Factory, extremely team. Fax or E-mail resumes to: required. College degree necessary. Pri- vate Label experience a plus. We offer 3-5 years experience required. Must be Secaucus, NJ based apparel co seeks versatile equipment & personnel, expe- 510-222-1082 proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. detail oriented Licensing Mgr with min rienced management in place, turn key competitive salary & benefits package. Sales & Allocation Analyst Please include salary requirements. Excellent salary and benefits package! 3 yrs exp working with or for licensors. Apparel manufacturer seeks analyst to operation, WRAP Certified, will be able [email protected] Please fax resume Attn: Mr. G Responsibilities include growing brand to benefit from CAFTA. Currently sew- Fax your resume to: 201-867-2240 review sales and determine trend Attn: V.P. Human Resources (646) 562-9650 business through aggressive communi- analysis. Monitor flow of inventory to ing knits & woven garments. For more cation between licensors and our sales info, please E-mail: [email protected] warehouses and stores. Must possess A. Cheng DESIGNER force. Must be an organized self starter excellent analytical skills & be proficient DESIGN/PRODUCTION ASSISTANT w/computer skills! Email resume & salary in Excel & Access. Wal-mart experience, Growing women’s wear contemporary Buyer’s Assistant Tween/Junior history to: [email protected] EOE retail link, CPFR, and DPF are a plus. Dr. Jay’s sportswear seeks indiv. w/ exp. Exciting and fast paced mass/moderate Please include salary requirements. co. looking for a F/T Design/Prod. Asst. Menswear Outerwear Patternmaker Seeking an energetic, motivated and working in buying office. Computer knowl. Sportswear Co. seeks a multifaceted Fax resume to 212-971-2277 creative individual w/ excellent follow- a must. Knowl. of urban market a +. designer for development of cut/sew knits ** $110-$200K ** up and communication skills. Must be Email resume: [email protected] &wovens. Must have min 3-5 years exp. 1st thru Prod’n. Run Brand New Sample in the fashion industry and a good eye Room. Hang with Burberry. SALES ASSIST $60K organized & able to multi-task. Exp a +. RETAIL LINK A MUST Great work environment! for trend. Fax resume Attn: Cathy/Mr. G [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 646-562-9650 [email protected] Email resumes: [email protected] CONTROLLER Merchandiser/Young Men’s-Ladies/$$ New Jersey based retail organization is Great oppty. for an experienced apparel SALES VP/$150K+ ADMINISTRATIVE seeking a Controller who is a hands Design Room Assistant - FT merch. who has directed designers, orch- CHILDREN’S WEAR/Better Market on accounting professional. Previous Busy mid-town apparel company seeks or- estrated a line, met deadlines, collabo- For 2 well known, branded urban boys USA/China Trading Co. ASSISTANT experience required. Must have strong ganized and motivated person to support rated with production and helped sales &girls apparel brands. Req: excl dept Office/Home in China Private Label Better Sportswear company financial and communication skills. graphic design team. Duties include filing, teams. Must have knowledge of: fabrics, store mgt/buyer relations, strong mgnt www.iqtradingco.com seeks creative, organized, & detail The appropriate candidate will be a mounting art, and ordering color. Must construction, sewing, strong manage- retail math & analytical skills. Must have or: [email protected] oriented person. Must be computer self starter requiring minimal supervi- be detail oriented. Some experience a plus. ment skills, traveled to overseas facto- BETTER mkt expr, all sizes, w/ stability. literate and self-motivated. Work in a sion. Degree in Accounting or Finance. Fax resume to (646) 277-7445 ries etc. This is for a Luxury Domestic E-mail resume: [email protected] team-oriented environment. Please fax High computer software proficiency a &Internat’l. Streetwear line for young (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 212-481-1941 resume to Philip Horowitz: plus. Please fax your resume to: 201- men & young ladies. E-mail resume to: 212-328-1247 or 1230 867-2240 (Include Salary requirements) Digitizer - Embroidery [email protected] Samplemaker Attn: V.P Human Resources. Must have exp in emb digitizing & pro- (Fax) 917-951-2521 (Tel) 212-481-1941 ADMIN SINCE 1967 duction coordination. call 954-965-7020 Busy ladies sptswr co seeks English or fax resume to 954-965-8566 speaking experienced samplemaker. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Prod’n/Product Coord $50-55K Please fax resume with salary require- DESIGNER-4+ yrs exp designing a ** SWEATERS ** ment to (212) 730-2190 COMP/PAT/GRADE/MARK APPAREL STAFFING Young Mens surfer/skater knit/wovens [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 NO grading charge option DESIGN * SALES * MERCH tops line/shop/line direct. $110-125K Online to all countries with conversions ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 Product Development SEAMSTRESS/TAILOR To all Systems Joel 212-736-5380 (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 Designer/Couture company has an im- Director of Public Relations Asst. Product Devel mediate opening! Must have minimum Allocator/Biller This position requires: Building a global 5 years exp. in the better/designer market. strategy with USA & international offices. Coordinator needed for Apparel Co. NJ warehouse DESIGNER Midtown Intimate Apparel manufacturer Fax resume to: 212-398-7765 PATTERN/SAMPLES location. Must have garment center Writing press releases, Pitching stories, Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast At Last Sportswear, Inc. Presenting collection to press and styl- seeks experienced candidates, neat, /warehousing experience. Computer detail-oriented, excellent in follow-up work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 experience required. Knowledge of MS Major importer of Missy Sportswear is ists. Must have strong working contacts Showroom Manager seeking a highly motivated designer. with editors from major fashion publica- to issue & track samples with sample Bridal designers Michelle and Henry Office, AS400 a plus. Please fax room/overseas office, monitor & update resume: (212) 398-4619. Responsibilities include: communicating tions and stylists. Must have excellent Roth have expanded nationally with PATTERNS, SAMPLES, with overseas offices/factories, preparing communication skills and be self moti- chart for customer/overseas office. media attention. If you are a current APPAREL JOBS sampling/production packages, assisting vated. French a plus. Qualified candi- Fax resume w/ salary requirement to showroom manager with min 3 yrs. PRODUCTIONS 212-337-0639 or email [email protected] All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Spec Techs designer in all phases of development. dates send resume and salary req’s to: exp with broad managerial responsibili- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr If you’re a team player who is proficient [email protected] ties covering trade show & trunk show Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) in Photoshop & Illustrator and have a Production Assistant administration, sample tracking to min. of 5 years experience we want to Looking for a team player with a good stores & media and who is a take- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, hear from you! We offer a great working FABRIC R&D $70K eye for color and creative flair to work charge, take control person, we have a A/R Administrator environment with excellent benefits! Must Have Asian Market Experience with our newborn/infant design team. unique position with growth and PRODUCTIONS Manage factoring, heavy volume of cash Fax or email resume Attn: Maggie (212) [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Overseas experience is a plus. rewards. This is not a sales position. Full servcie shop to the trade. receipts posting & follow-up of charge 382-1469 / [email protected] Please call Bob @ (212) 695-1151 Email resume: [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. backs. Knowledge of Blue Cherry a plus. Please fax resume to: (212) 413-4435 FABRIC SOURCING Major textile co seeks a person w/ Production Coordinator Knit mfg. co. seeks professional with SPEC TECH Designer knowledge of Asian Textile Markets Fast paced, Private Label firm seeks Spec ASSISTANT Global intimate apparel company located with merchandising and design exp. strong communication and tech. skills. Able to handle all aspects of overseas Tech person to provide Sketch and Spec, Seeking an Assistant with excellent in Secaucus, NJ seeks Designer with at Able to work w/clients & sales staff in do Fits, Production Packages, and com- communication skills, the ability to least 4 years exp. in designing for girls promoting product. Salary commensu- and domestic factory production. Must have good follow-up & ability to schedule municate with overseas factory. Chinese follow-up with customers, & general mid or mass markets. Travel required. rate w/exp. Pls fax resume: 212-397-2202 speaking a plus. Good salary. office tasks. Salary starting at 25K We offer a very competitive compensation shipments. Min. of 5 years experience. E-mail: [email protected] E-mail resume to: plus benefits; negotiable. pkg. Email resume & salary history to [email protected] Please fax resume to (212) 764-2617 [email protected] EOE GRAPHIC DESIGNER Attention: Jennifer Trendy Junior denim driven company PRODUCTION OPENINGS seeks experienced creative, detail ori- Import Coordin.-Traffic, Docu, L/C’s $45K+ ented Graphic Designer. Fast paced Sweater/Knit Designer SAMPLE SALE Pattern Room Mgr.-Better Dsgnr Label $120K Better separates brand seeks seasoned Underwear and Underpinnings, Asst Art Director $$$$$ Designer / Head Designer environment requires a team player Prod. Mgr.- Mens Sport & Knit Shirts $100K+ Color, Stylist, Trend Coord, Supervise 10 able to meet deadlines. Midtown loca- Pro for Sweater/Knitwear design. 6 + Loungewear, Sleepwear and Robes Estab Better Missy contemporary Prod. Mgr.-Domestic- Sweaters $ BOE years experience required including: For Men and Women [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 sweater knit Co. Seeks highly detail tion. Please fax resume to: (212) 944- Production Coordin-Woven Sprtswr $60K 6743 or E-mail: [email protected] creative, merchandising/line building, APRIL 19TH (8 A.M. - 6 P.M.) oriented & efficient designer. Min 5 Sourcing Coord-BiLing- Sprtswr Mfr To $50K sourcing, sketching & specs. Proficient APRIL 20TH (8 A.M. - 4 P.M.) BUYER yrs exp. Able to accurate identify trend www.apparelstaffing.com inIllustrator and/or Photoshop, Excel. 40 East 34th Street, Suite# 819 Barrie Pace, direct to consumer mar- direction, merchandising, strategic Jr. Product Manager Or Fax Resumes to: 212-302-1161 Far East/ Europe travel. keter of women’s career apparel & planning and presentations. E-mail to: Please fax resume with salary req’s to: sportswear & subsidiary of Hartmarx [email protected] NEO-CONCEPT, Fast Growing major Production Planner (212) 594-3999 Attention: Anna Corporation, seeks highly motivated Private Label Sweater/Knit Manufacturer, buyer. Will select & purchase accesso- has an opening in their NYC office for a "Experienced" ries & social occasion dressing for Designer Junior Product Manager. Must have Busy mid-town intimate apparel Barrie Pace Catalog/website. Involved strong organizational & communicational company seeks an experienced, highly in selection, product development, Jewelry Designer skills, can multi-task and the ability to organized, motivated, detail-oriented vendor presentations & data manage- Dynamic Fashion Jewelry Co. in Orange work in a fast paced team oriented environ- individual to schedule/track production FASHION RESUME ment. Bachelor Degree in Fashion County, CA seeks an energetic, creative, ment. Must be computer literate. Respon- and communicate with factories. Garment Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail Merchandising or business & previous and experienced Jewelry Designer. Must sibilities include follow up with customers knowledge and Excel proficiency a Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates experience as a buyer in the fashion possess leadership and communication and all internal communication with HK/ MUST. A fantastic opportunity for an GILBERT CAREER RESUMES industry required. Accessory buying skills. Innovation, familiarity with current China offices. Knitwear knowledge a individual with an understanding of (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa experience preferred. Proficiency in designers, and the ability to anticipate must. Great growth opportunity. replenishment production planning. fashionresumes.com Excel necessary. Chicago based. trends req’d. Complete benefits package Fax resume and salary requirement to: Salary commensurate with experience. fashioncareercenter.com E-mail resume: [email protected] included. Fax resumes to: 949-863-9170 212-242-4418 Attn: Angela Fax resume to (646) 277-7445 WWD, TUESDAY, APRIL 19, 2005 19 WWD.COM Denim, Novel Looks Kors in the Sun at Saks Fifth Ave.

NEW YORK — Michael Kors was an island in a Revlon’s president and chief executive officer. Score at Dallas Show stream of fragrance buyers and industry execu- Prior to Revlon, Massimo was executive vice tives Friday at Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship here. president at GreenPoint Financial Corp., where By Rusty Williamson creased her budget by more than More than 500 shoppers — and she is credited with developing 10 percent. an impressive list of beauty and an h.r. strategy that integrated DALLAS — Buyers looked for “Trina Turk is one of my fa- retail executives, including Saks’ the company’s three major busi- spring and summer immediates vorite designers and I loved her Ron Frasch, Deborah Walters and BEAUTY BEAT ness lines during a period of and early fall styles at Fashion crystal-trimmed shirts,” Brown- Kate Oldham, and Estée Lauder’s rapid growth. She has also held Industry Gallery’s four-day market. ing said. “I also liked Chameleon’s Leonard Lauder, Evelyn Lauder, senior posts at companies such FIG officials said the market, fur-trimmed sweaters and Blue Fabrice Weber and Veronique as Rockefeller & Co., Swiss Bank which ended April 3, was strong Genius’ fun denim jeans, which Gabai-Pinsky — were on hand to Corp. and Drexel. in traffic and sales and plans are also fit really well.” welcome the ebullient designer, “We are delighted to welcome moving forward to open a 25,000- Valentine’s Too, a store in El who was there to sign bottles of Mary to Revlon,” Stahl said in a square-foot expansion by yearend. Paso, on the Mexican border, at- his newest fragrance, Island statement. He continued, “This PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY Retailers were greeted in tracts shoppers from Juarez, Michael Kors. position is a critical part of our showrooms with bright, pastel and Mexico, and merchandises for “With fashion appearances, senior leadership team and will earth-tone colors such as purple, them, also, said Lynn Lettunich, you never get the variety of peo- ensure that we are best positioned turquoise and shades of brown co-owner with Phyllis Crowell. ple you do at a fragrance event,” to become a profitable beauty and green, lush embroidered She bought Charlotte Taran- said Kors with a chuckle. “When leader.” Massimo replaces Herb styles and beading, which is going tola’s embellished sweaters, Pur- you buy clothes, it’s all about Vallier, who recently left the com- forward for fall in a big way after ple 7’s loosely woven knit ensem- ‘Does this look good?’ With fra- Michael Kors and items from his pany for personal reasons. scoring at retail for spring. bles, Streets Ahead’s denim jeans, grance, it’s all about emotion.” Island Michael Kors collection. — Molly Prior Shannon Bartkowiak, owner Sweet Pea’s mesh tops and To Be And the shoppers — who of Shannon’s, a specialty store in Free’s embroidered sweatshirts. ranged from teenage hipsters to suburban soccer Corpus Christi, Tex., scouted for “I also really loved Rozae moms — proved that theory. In fact, many marched L’Oréal Names Florian Chanet fall goods and found an array of Nichol’s new secondary line up to meet Kors decked out in the bright turquoise PARIS — L’ Oréal has formally appointed Florian denim styles to offer her misses’ called Common Thread and all that is the scent’s signature color. While neither Chanet, 36, managing director of its luxury prod- customer base, which she said the rich colors such as amethyst, Lauder nor Saks would comment on sales, industry ucts division for France. Chanet had been working demands style as well as comfort. teal, gold and burgundy,” she said. sources estimated that the scent racked up sales of as acting managing director since January, when “It seemed like all the fall col- Missy Altus, co-owner of about $20,000 that day. he replaced Martin Guillou, who had passed away lections revolved around denim, NoNo’s Fashions, also in El Kors noted that he’ll be making several other suddenly. Chanet joined L’Oréal in 1997 and held a so I’m going with it,” she said. “I Paso, said she shopped FIG for appearances this month to support the scent, in- variety of positions in the company’s luxury prod- picked up Tommy Bahama jeans deep berry colors and lots of cluding an April 28 appearance at Neiman Marcus ucts division before heading its travel retail divi- with a contoured fit that gives the sparkling crystals and beads. in Dallas and an April 29 appearance at Nordstrom sion in Europe, where he managed a succession of illusion of a low-rise fit. I also “Poleci looked incredible, es- in Seattle. brands, including Helena Rubinstein, Biotherm loved the exotic embellishment pecially the bead and stitch detail- “I asked my people if they were sure that they and Lancôme. that’s all over the place as trims. ing,” Altus said. “Women will like didn’t want to consider a Honolulu store,” cracked “But I was most impressed the great variety of items such as Kors, who at one point had joked that he’d only with the toned-down floral prints bolero capelets, tank tops, dress- make appearances in stores on islands. “But they fig- Van der Straeten Meets Guerlain and mesh fabrics, which will be es, gauchos and lots of pants. I ured that Seattle had as much water as any island.” PARIS — After collaborating with Parfums perfect for my conservative south also was impressed with Para- — Julie Naughton Christian Dior to create the J’Adore fragrance bot- Texas customer,’’ Bartkowiak meter’s Russian-style beaded em- tle, Hervé Van der Straeten is said to be working said. “Weston Wear’s turquoise, bellishment, rich brocades and with another of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis pink and chocolate sportswear velvets, and their fur-trimmed col- Revlon Taps Executive VP Vuitton’s cosmetics brands — Guerlain. Van der looked great and so did Sweet lars and cropped jackets with NEW YORK — Revlon Inc. appointed Mary Massimo Straeten, a designer in multiple industries, report- Pea’s sophisticated but fun short sleeves — very fresh. For to the position of executive vice president of human edly created new packaging for Guerlain lipsticks, muted-tone sportswear that will evening, Dina bar-El can’t be beat resources on Monday. In her new post, she will over- which are due to be launched in August. It’s a busy work fine for carpool moms.” when it comes to elegantly draped see the company’s worldwide h.r. organization, and time for the designer: A jewelry collection he creat- Chantal Browning, owner of columns with crystal details, usu- is charged with aligning Revlon’s workforce with its ed to be sold exclusively in some Parisian museums Chantal’s in Colleyville, Tex., in- ally in charmeuse or chiffon.” growth strategy. She will report to Jack Stahl, was launched two weeks ago.

TECH DESIGN ASST Technical Designer WAL-MART $80K Hip Young Men’s/Boy’s company seeks Growing co. seeks highly organized & TD WOVENS SPORTSWEAR SALES EXECUTIVES SALES PERSONS abright, energetic and creative team detailed person for new jean div. Min 5 Must have PattMaking Exp. Retail Link A+ VP GENERAL [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Special Occasion/Evening Wear Dress player. Responsibilities include: daily years denim exp in spec development, Rapidly expanding branded Importer seeks Sales Persons w/strong MERCHANDISE MANAGER communication with overseas factories, garment construction, fit approvals, childrenswear co. seeking Dept./Chain/Specialty Store contacts to measuring and developing specs for knit sketching, and prep of tech packs. WISCONSIN RELO!! join our NYC Showroom to cultivate 50M Apparel Mfr. seeks an exp’d and woven garments; full knowledge of Excellent computer and comm skills. aggressive exp. sales pros. w/ Retail Apparel Divisional or General TECH DIRECTOR $100-$150K new/maintain existing accounts. Please garment construction. Excel, Outlook Benefits. Fax resume to 212-354-5198 Run Large Staff. Better Sportswr Mfr creative point of view to sell Fax or E-mail resumes to HR at: Merchandise Mgr for key account a must. Flat sketching and CAD a plus. [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 973-741-1311 / [email protected] Fax resume to: (212) 944-0933 4-16 girls & 4-20 boys active management. Must be passionate Technical Designer sportswear to Dept stores & about the Retail Market and have TECH Design Asst-WW importer needs Ladies mfg. co. seeks highly organized 1+ yr exp putting tech packs together/ mid-tier. Analytical skills long standing relationships and detail oriented person with min. 5 yrs. Sales to $110K send them/do 1st sample/Excel. $40-50K experience in tech design. Must be able retail background a plus. contacts. Relocation not required. Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 Vertical cut/sew knits to mfg/retailers to prepare tech packs for overseas fac- Please fax resume/salary in Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 $200K to 250K + Strong tories. Ability to run production fittings confidence to 212-398-1038 [email protected] Incentives. Confidentiality Assured. Tech Designer $45-55K and have full knowledge of garment Girls I-16 swimwear or strong knit exp construction. FAX: (212) 398-9151 [email protected] Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Fax 732-280-6190 Attn: Larissa [email protected] Textile Print/Asst SALES EXECUTIVE SEAMLESS WEAR MFR. TECH DESIGNER $70K DESIGN LINK Exciting Opportunity!!! Missy woven shirts mfr. seeks sales pro Seeking exp’d. salespeople w/customer JERSEY CITY Duties include supervising pattern Established Women’s Handbag & Hat for NY showroom. Must have strong dept. base and strong contacts w/Chain/Dept./ concept and coloring, technical engrav- Accessory company seeks an aggressive, and chain store contacts. Fax resume to: Specialty Stores. Fax resume: 212-629-6790 Wovens & Cut & Sew Knits. In’t Corp. experienced national salesperson. (201) 330-0002 [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 ing and following up final cloth produc- tion. Excellent feel for color a must. Please fax resume to: 305-596-4418 Attention to detail and follow up a TD Sweaters/Knits/Wovens TECH DESIGNER must. Familiarity with textile printing In-House/Outside Sales Pro SHOWROOM SALES a plus. Please fax resume to SALES EXECUTIVE NY Junior Bottoms mfr seeks an exp’d SWEATERS AND KNITS NY based importer seeks well connected We are seeking experienced Sales Pro. * Sweaters TD $85K Jr and children’s mfr needs a technical Design Link: 212-869-0499 sales to office price market. Fax resume salesperson with dept & specialty *Sweaters TD-Bilingual Chinese $70K with min. 5 yrs. experience selling knits stores to bring in new business. Email designer with a strong background in to: 516-328-0143 to specialty and department stores. Must Must Have Knit Pattern Making sweaters and knits, with knowledge of [email protected] or Fax 212-921-7817 *Sweaters TD-Menswear $55K TRIM BUYER $50-80K have good communication skills, be well all phases of production. Must attend organized and a team player. *Sweaters Spec Tech $35K fittings, prepare production specification Must Know How to Measure Garments *Wovens TD-Menswear $75-85K Strong Math Skills a Must. NEW YORK ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Serious inquiries please e-mail: packs, and be able to instruct factories [email protected] *Wovens TD-Better/Bridge $70-80K overseas on all aspects of construction & [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Travel to regional shows. Speciality Showroom Salesperson *Cut & Sew Knits & Wovens TD $45-65K other technical points. Responsibilities store following. FAX: (203) 840-1117 Better knit & sweater co. seeks motivated *Foundation TD-Swimwear $60-$85K also include: Measuring & checking Visual Merchandiser E-MAIL: [email protected] & experienced salesperson to expand *Underwear TD Mens $55K Pre-production and top of production Sales Manager existing DEPT. & CHAIN STORE busi- *Lingerie Spec Tech $45K samples, as well as daily communication LA PERLA SALES ASSISTANT Well known missy contemporary knitwear ness. Unlimited potential since we are *Childrens TD - Toddler/Preteen $75K w/overseas factories. Must be organized Italian Fashion Co. seeks part time Seeking exp’d person. Must be organ- Co. seeks min 5 yrs exp’d in cut & looking to expand into other ladies’ ap- *Childrens Spec Tech Toddler/Preteen $35K &detail oriented. Exp with Wal-Mart visual merchandiser for NY stores. ized with excellent computer skills. sewn knit sales pro. with estab contacts parel categories, mod-better. Salary + *TD Jeans/Denim $75K CTL necessary. Knowledge of Italian a plus. Email Great oppty to advance. Benefits. within major, mass & mid-tier, pvt label commission. EMAIL resumes to: [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Fax resume: 212-382-2549 Attn: Roger resume to: [email protected] Fax resume to 212-354-5198 acc. E-mail to: [email protected] [email protected] Cotton Incorporated, 2004. Today’s worry-free cotton frenzyis creating a bigger than a reality show casting call at the mall. rademark of Cotton Incorporated. © AND IMPORTERS. ®AND IMPORTERS. Registered Service Mark/T AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS COTTON AMERICA’S

Now that cotton is wrinkle-free and stain resistant, it won’t be around long enough to mark down. Buy it for what it does. Buy it for what it doesn’t do. Cotton. The fabric of our lives®. www.cottoninc.com