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188 Special Nature Reserve Milesevka and the Mileseva Monastery Nadezda Pesic, Svetlana Dingarac and Dimitrije Pesic Introduction and history of the by the Institute for the Protection of Cul- legal protection of the site tural Monuments of Serbia. In south-western Serbia, on the territory The protected natural environment of the former state of Raska, on the adds to the character and the beauty banks of River Milesevka, lies a spiritu- of the monastery. The surroundings of ally, culturally, historically and artistical- Mileseva are dominated by the canyon ly very important monument of the of River Milesevka, with a mediaeval country’s past, the Mileseva Monastery. fortification on the rocky top and mo- It became the most holy place of the nastic cells high above the river. The Serbian Orthodox Church, and people area of 290 ha is protected as a natu- after the relics of St Sava have been ral, cultural and historic complex. In transferred there from Trnovo (Bulgaria) 1990, the Institute for Nature Protection in 1236. From that time on the Mileseva of Serbia declared the surroundings of Monastery became a place of pilgrim- the monastery as a protected area of age of the Serbian people and other natural and cultural importance called Orthodox nations from the Balkans. It the Protected Natural Surroundings of was declared a ‘Cultural property of ex- the Mileseva Monastery, managed by ceptional national significance’ in 1979 the Serbian Orthodox Church. < The White Angel from the scene the Holy Women at the Sepulchre. 189 The Special Nature Reserve Milesevka and the Protected Natural Surroundings of the Mileseva Monastery. The gorge of River Milesevka was des- Natural values ignated as a Regional Nature Park in The Special Nature Reserve Milesevka 1976. Now, the protected area is is situated between the two mountains planned to be designated as a Special Zlatar (1627 m) and Jadovnik (1734 m). Nature Reserve of 1236 hectares in The canyon is characterised by unique size. The State Enterprise for Forest wild and rough nature, picturesque Management `Srbijasume` is in charge landscapes, inaccessible paths and the of the management of Milesevka Re- steep rock formations that sometimes gional Nature Park. rise to a height of 300 m and descend The Milesevka Gorge is proposed for almost vertically towards the riverbed. designation as an IUCN Category IV. The gorge is 24 km long and it ends As a site of national and international near the Mileseva Monastery. Walking importance, the Milesevka Gorge is in- through the gorge is possible only via a cluded in the list of ‘Important Birds narrow path carved into the cliffs. Areas in Europe, BirdLife 2000’ (YU 21 The flagship species of the protected SE). It is also included in the ecologi- area is the griffon vulture (Gyps ful- cal network ‘Emerald’, this being a pre- vus). The bird is protected as a rare paratory step towards an inclusion in species as it had almost disappeared. the Natura 2000 network. The Ministry Thanks to the efforts of experts and of Environment and Spatial Planning volunteers, the number of birds has and the Institute for Nature Conserva- multiplied, and currently, Serbia has tion of Serbia are responsible for moni- the largest griffon vulture populations toring and protection of the protected in the Balkan countries. The vulture is area. considered a holy bird among the 190 Serbs. From the eleventh century to ing, adrenalin tours through Milesevka the present times, it has been on the gorge, photo safaris, visits to spiritual, Serbian state coat of arms. historic and cultural monuments, rural tourism etc. Visit to the Reserves is re- On the other hand, there are 30 en- stricted to small groups. The local pop- demic taxa in the gorge’s flora (Ma- ulation does not endanger the griffon tovic, 1992). Eight species are consid- vultures with their everyday activities. ered rare. The fauna is represented by 24 species of mammals, many of those The Milesevka Gorge is considered a considered rare (bear, otter, wild sacred place by the Orthodox Chris- boar…). There are 73 species of birds, tians, because St Sava’s body rested 38 of those rare and of international im- there. His spirit has been protecting portance (such as Gyps fulvus, Aquila the gorge and all visitors with good in- chrysaetos, Falco tinnunculus, Crex tentions. The opposite is true as well: crex, Falco peregrinus, Alectoris grae- all actions that could impair the gorge ca, Bubo bubo, Alauda arvensis, Ti- bring misfortune. chodroma muraria, Lanius collurio…). The activities in the Reserves are gen- Cultural heritage erally focused on supervising and maintaining the protected areas. Tourist The Raska region has been consid- activities include trekking, bird watch- ered holy since the beginning of the The Mileseva Monastery (1219-1235). 191 twelfth century, when the first Serbian er, it became the most holy place of state had been established by the sac- Serbia after the transfer of the relics of rosanct Nemanjic dynasty. It had ruled St Sava. St Sava (1174–1235) is widely over the Serbian lands continuously considered as the most important fig- during the period of more than two ure of Serbian history and is canonised centuries (1166–1371). Kings from the and venerated by the Serbian Ortho- holy Nemanjic dynasty established the dox Church. St Sava was an Orthodox Serbian spirituality: the Serbian Ortho- monk, the first Archbishop of the Serbi- dox church, Svetosavlje (Saintsava- an Orthodox Church, a diplomat, writ- ism), literacy, literature, legislation and er, legislator and founder of several im- school system. Deeply religious and portant medieval monasteries. devoted to Orthodoxy, all the rulers of Since that time the Mileseva Monastery this family were generous donors who has been the spiritual and cultural cen- erected many magnificent monasteries tre of this region and a place of pil- and churches all over Serbia and even grimage for the Serbians and other Or- on Mount Athos (Hilandar). Until pre- thodox nations from the Balkans (Kan- sent times all of them are important dic, 1995). This tradition has never spiritual places, with valuable monu- been interrupted throughout the centu- ments of medieval construction and ar- ries until present times, despite many chitecture and galleries of the most different historical influences (the Turk- beautiful fresco paintings. ish occupation, wars, communism…). The Mileseva Monastery was erected Thus, Mileseva became a centre of between 1219 and 1235 by King hope, courage, and inspiration for the Vladislav Nemanjic. Although the mon- Serbian struggle against the Turkish astery was already important and well- occupation. Many miracles took place known as the burial place of its found- at the grave of St Sava in the Mileseva The Mileseva Monastery, the Milesevac fortress, the River Milesevka Gorge and the village of Hisardzik make up a natural, cultural and historical complex. 192 monastery. The Venetian diplomat portant spiritual and cultural centre Ramberty, who visited Mileseva in with a scriptorium and a library, where 1534, wrote that not only Serbs, but original works of Serbian literature also Muslims and Jews were visiting were copied. Also, one of the oldest the monastery and asking for healing. schools of Serbia existed in the mon- astery. In 1544, one of the first printing Mileseva was ranked second among houses in Serbia was established in all Serbian monasteries. In the golden the monastery (Nemirovski, 1996). The age of Serbia, during the Nemanjic dy- monks printed two books: the Psalter nasty, the monastic community in the in 1544 and the Prayer Book in 1546. A Mileseva Monastery counted around second edition of the Psalter was print- 300 monks. In 1377 the church saw the ed in 1557. The printing house was lo- coronation of Stjepan Tvrtko Kotroman- cated and assembled in a secret hid- ic as the king of Bosnia and Serbia, ing place in the sub-dome area of the while in 1466 Stephan Vukcic Kosaca outer narthex. Manuscripts and printed received the title the `Duke of St Sava’. books were disseminated throughout The monastery, an artistic and ecclesi- Europe owing several destructions of astical-political centre, situated at one the monastery, the migrations of the of the chief stopping places on an im- Serbian population during the rule of portant international trade route served the Ottoman Turks, the riots against the as the intersection of influences from Ottoman Turks, and wars. Today, only a Eastern and Western Europe for few manuscripts and printed books are centuries. kept in the renewed treasury. The church of Mileseva is dedicated to The monastery was torn down many the Ascension of the Lord and is built times in its history, as also other Serbi- in the traditional style of the Raska re- an holy places. The first time the mon- gion. Mileseva’s thirteenth century astery was ruined in 1459 by the Otto- frescoes are considered to be one of man Turks. It was renewed and recon- the best samples of painting in Europe structed with the help of the Grand Vi- of that time (Cmiljanovic, 2009). One of zier Mehmed Pasha and his close rela- the most famous Mileseva frescoes is tive Patriarch Makarije Sokolovic. In the White Angel from the scene of the 1624 the raging stream took a part of Holy Women at the Sepulchre, as well the yard away together with some ob- as a fresco with the portraits of family jects. The monks completely recon- members of the Nemanjics. The structed the church and other build- Mileseva portraits of the first Nemanjic ings with the help of the Russian em- family members were made while they perors. During the Austrian-Turkish were still alive and therefore are of War of 1689–90, the Mileseva Monas- great historical value.