Historic Public Libraries

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A Guide to Historic New York City Neighborhoods

H i s t o r i c P u b l i c L i b r a r i e s Citywide The Historic Districts Council is New York’s citywide advocate for historic buildings and neighborhoods. The Six to Celebrate program annually identifies six historic New York City neighborhoods that merit preservation as priorities for HDC’s advocacy and consultation over a yearlong period.

The six, chosen from applications submitted by community organizations, are selected on the basis of the architectural and historic merit of the area, the level of threat to the neighborhood, the strength and willingness of the local advocates, and the potential for HDC’s preservation support to be meaningful. HDC works with these neighborhood partners to set and reach preservation goals through strategic planning, advocacy, outreach, programs and publicity.

The core belief of the Historic Districts Council is that preservation and enhancement of New York City’s historic resources—its neighborhoods, buildings, parks and public spaces— are central to the continued success of the city. The Historic Districts Council works to ensure the preservation of these resources and uphold the New York City Landmarks Law and to further the preservation ethic. This mission is accomplished through ongoing programs of assistance to more than 500 community and neighborhood groups and through public-policy initiatives, publications, educational outreach and sponsorship of community events.

Support is provided in part by public funds from the New York City Department of Cultural Affairs in partnership with the City Council and by the New York State Council on the Arts with the support of Governor Andrew Cuomo and the New York State Legislature. Additional support is provided by City Councilmembers Margaret Chin, Inez Dickens, Matthieu Eugene, Daniel Garodnick, Vincent Gentile, Corey Johnson, Ben Kallos, Stephen Levin, Mark Levine, and Rosie Mendez.

232 East 11th Street, New York, NY 10003 tel 212-614-9107 fax 212-614-9127 e-mail [email protected] www.hdc.org 6tocelebrate.org

New York City has three public library systems: the New York Public Library (in Manhattan, The Bronx and Staten Island), the Brooklyn Public Library and the Queens Borough Public Library. The reason for these independent systems was due to their origins prior to the 1898 consolidation of the five boroughs. The City of New York’s first free circulating library was established in 1878, even though multiple bills were passed by the New York Legislature for such a public service beginning in the 1830s. Over those decades, private libraries served as research facilities for scholars and students, but none were open to the general public. In 1880, the New York Free Circulating Library (NYFCL) was established, operating out of several rooms at 36 Bond Street and funded by private donors. The NYFCL was formally incorporated in 1884, and its first building opened at 135 Second Avenue (site 1). Between 1884 and 1901, 11 branches were built, consisting of 1.6 million volumes. In 1901, steel baron Andrew Carnegie retired and devoted his energy and wealth to the development of libraries throughout the English-speaking world, including New York City. This would forever change the institution.

The New York Public Library (NYPL) was formed in 1895 with the consolidation of three private corporations: the Astor Library (founded by John Jacob Astor in 1849), the Lenox Library (founded by James Lenox in 1870) and The Tilden Trust (a fund established in 1886 by former New York Governor Samuel J. Tilden). The NYFCL also joined this consolidation in 1901 in order to benefit from Carnegie’s gift of $5.2 million for 67 library branches to be built between 1901 and 1929 (56 are still standing). Carnegie’s only stipulation was that the city acquire the sites and establish building maintenance plans. To design the buildings, the NYPL organized a committee of architects: Charles F. McKim, Walter Cook and John M. Carrère. In order to stylistically link the branches and save money, the committee decided on a uniform scale, interior layout, character and materials palette for the buildings. Construction for the main branch, a grand building in the heart of Manhattan, began in 1901. The NYPL became and remains one of the leading research institutions in the world.

Queens’ first public library was established in Flushing in 1858, and became a free circulating library in 1869. In 1901, the borough’s independent libraries merged to become the Queens Borough Library, and were eventually housed in Carnegie- funded buildings. The system acquired its current name, the Queens Borough Public Library (QBPL), in 1907. Brooklyn’s first free public library was that of the Pratt Institute, which opened in 1888. In 1892, the Brooklyn Public Library (BPL) was created through state legislation, and in 1901, Carnegie signed a contract for the construction of libraries in Brooklyn. Both the QBPL and the BPL were established as independent corporations with trustees appointed by the mayor and civil service staff. In the broad sense, New York City’s library systems are one of its finest resources. In the local sense, its branches function as community anchors, both for the services they provide and for their architectural contributions to each neighborhood’s sense of place. While this brochure focuses on the origins of the city’s public library systems and offers a glimpse at some of its early extant branches, there are over 200 public libraries across the five boroughs, as well as private and institutional libraries that are also well worth visiting.

1 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries Manhattan

In the 1840s, 1 the East Village (then part of the Lower East Side) Ottendorfer Library became known as NYPL “Kleindeutschland” Second Avenue (Little Germany) (William Schickel, 1883-84) for its large – NYC IL, NYC INL, NR-P population of German immigrants. This building was the first branch of the New York Free Circulating Library, donated by German-American philanthropists Anna and Oswald Ottendorfer. The Ottendorfer Library, along with the adjacent German Dispensary (later renamed the Stuyvesant Polyclinic), was intended to uplift the minds and bodies of the Ottendorfers’ fellow German-Americans. Half of the library’s initial 8,000 volumes were in German, and much of its staff spoke German. In addition to its historical significance to the city’s library system, the library, as well as the adjacent dispensary, is also architecturally magnificent. The buildings include Italian Renaissance Revival and Queen Anne-style details, with red brick, terra-cotta trim, arched windows and symbolic ornament: urns and books on the library and busts of famous physicians and scientists on the dispensary.

Main Branch NYPL Fifth Avenue at 42nd Street

(Carrère & Hastings, 1901-11, master plan and restoration: Davis Brody Bond, 1980-2000; South Court addition: Davis The NYPL’s Main Branch is one of the city’s Brody Bond, 2000-02; Children’s Center most important civic monuments and most at 42nd Street: Gensler Architects, 2008) impressive works of architecture. Along with – NYC IL, NYC INL, NHL Bryant Park, it is located on the site of the old Croton Distributing Reservoir, once the city’s main source of fresh water. The reservoir’s 50-foot high, 25-foot thick walls were demolished in the 1890s, just as plans were underway for a new central library. Some of the reservoir’s foundations can still be found in the library’s South Court. In 2000- 02, a new wing was added to this part of the building and the architects intentionally exposed the foundation wall as a record of the site’s history. Situated on the eastern end of two city blocks, the library’s marble façades and lavish interiors are a

2 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries masterpiece of the Beaux-Arts style. The firm of Carrère & Hastings, fairly unknown at the time, was chosen to design the building. Their success led to commissions for 14 Carnegie- funded branches across the city (see sites 8, 10, 11 and 12), more than any other firm.

The building’s front is set back from Fifth Avenue by a grand staircase and terrace that give the façade added grandeur and perspective. The terrace’s two famous lion statues were sculpted by Edward Clark Potter and were originally named “Leo Astor” and “Leo Lenox” after the library’s founders. During the Great Depression, Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia nicknamed them “Patience” and “Fortitude.” The main entrance is housed within a triple-arched portico supported by coupled Corinthian columns. The rear, or west façade, expresses and honors the function of the building. Its series of full-height, vertical rows of windows both represent and give light to the seven floors of book stacks within. The steel stacks once held 88 miles of books, which have since been moved offsite. However, the stacks also function as structural support for the building, providing a powerful symbolism to the building’s construction. On all four façades, pedimented pavilions lend visual interest and elegance. When it was completed in 1911, the library bore the distinction of being the largest marble structure in the United States. Formerly known as the Humanities and Social Sciences Library and the Center for Humanities, the building was renamed the Stephen A. Schwarzman Building in 2008 to honor a major gift to the institution.

The library functions as a reference, rather than a circulating library, and, as such, includes magnificent interior reading rooms, including the Rose Main Reading Room. This grand space, with arched windows and a fresco ceiling, is one of the most revered interior public spaces in Manhattan. In the 1980s, the institution undertook a major restoration of many of the library’s interior spaces and added two levels of stacks beneath Bryant Park. At that time, the library collection had outgrown the building, necessitating the park’s excavation. In 2012, library officials announced the Central Library Plan, which would close two nearby circulating branches and consolidate their

Legend of designations National Historic Landmark: NHL National Register of Historic Places—District: NR-D National Register of Historic Places—Property: NR-P New York City Historic District: NYC HD New York City Individual Landmark: NYC IL New York City Interior Landmark: NYC INL 3 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries functions within the main building. This plan was met with widespread public opposition due in large part to its plan to demolish the stacks to make room for a circulating library. The plan was abandoned in 2014.

The very first of the 3 Carnegie-funded branches of the NYPL, the Yorkville Branch officially opened Yorkville Branch NYPL in December of 1902. 222 East 79th Street The three-story building has a limestone façade, (James Brown Lord, 1902; renovation: divided into three bays with Gwathmey Siegel & Associates,1986) elegant arched windows – NYC IL, NR-P on the main floor and Ionic columns on the second. At the turn of the century, Yorkville was a densely populated German immigrant neighborhood, and as such, the third floor of the original building housed only German language publications. At the end of World War I, Thomas Masaryk used the Yorkville library to conduct the research that led to his founding of the Czechoslovakian state. The library’s interior was renovated in the late 1980s with funds donated by the Rose family. Once again the place of a pioneering event, the renovation was the first time a branch library was overhauled using private resources. The current library occupies two floors within the original ornate Palladian-inspired façade. The building was designated a landmark in 1967, only two years after the enactment of the New York City Landmarks Law.

Jefferson Market Branch NYPL 425 Sixth Avenue (Frederick Clarke Withers of Vaux and Withers, 1874-77; renovation: Giorgio Cavaglieri, 1967) – NYC HD, NR-P, NHL In the 1830s, this small, triangular block became the heart of Greenwich Village when Jefferson Market was built here. In addition to the market, the block also had a small Police Court, prison and watchtower. In the 1870s and 80s, the block was renewed 4 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries with a picturesque complex of buildings designed by the firm of Vaux and Withers, including the Third Judicial District Courthouse. This magnificent building, designed in the High Victorian Gothic style, is the only remnant of that complex. It features a rich, polychrome palette of materials with bandcourses, Gothic arches, stained glass windows, turrets, a large gable and variegated roof slates. The City seal is found on its Sixth Avenue façade. The crowning achievement is a prominent corner tower, whose top was designed as a fire lookout with an alarm bell and large clock faces to serve the community. When the building ceased to function as a courthouse in 1945, it briefly served as a Police Academy. The building was threatened with demolition in the late 1950s, but public outcry led to its conversion to a branch of the NYPL, one of the first adaptive reuse projects in the country. In 1996, after 135 years of silence, a campaign to reinstate the ringing of the fire bell was successful, and it has rung the hours from 9:00am to 10:00pm ever since.

NYPL for the Performing Arts, Dorothy and Lewis B. Cullman Center 40 Lincoln Center Plaza Both a research and circulating (Eero Saarinen and Gordon Bunshaft, 1965; renovation: library, this formidable library is Polshek Partnership, 1999-2001; Claire Tow Theater: adjacent to the Metropolitan Opera Hugh Hardy, 2012) House and shares a building with the Vivian Beaumont Theater. In fact, its stacks, which hold one of the largest collections of performing arts materials in the world, wrap around the theater flyspace and its public rooms are to the side and rear of the theater. Before the library was conceived as part of the plans for Lincoln Center, performing arts research materials were housed at the Main Branch and the circulating music collection was located at the 58th Street Library. The exterior of the glass and travertine building was the work of Eero Saarinen, while the interior was designed by Gordon Bunshaft of Skidmore, Owings and Merrill. In 2001, a major reconfiguration of the 1960s design was undertaken, notably the consolidation of smaller reading rooms into one skylit reading room on the third floor and improved exhibition galleries, as well as rewiring the building for computers and internet access. In 2012, the two- story, 23,000-square-foot Claire Tow Theater was constructed on the building’s roof.

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Schomburg Collection for Research in Black Culture NYPL

103 West 135th Street Charles F. McKim and Originally the West 135th Street Branch of William Kendall, McKim, Mead & the NYPL, this library grew exponentially over White, 1904-05 – NYC IL the 20th century to encompass a complex of 104 West 136th Street buildings housing the prestigious Schomburg 42 Collection for Research in Black Culture. Louis Allen Abramson, 1941- The original building was one of 11 Carnegie- 515 Malcolm X Boulevard funded branches designed by the firm of McKim, Mead & White. All that remains of Bond Ryder & Associates, 1969-80, the building, which was designed in the firm’s renovation: Dattner Architects, 2007 characteristic Italian Renaissance Revival style, is its West 135th Street façade. During the 1920s Harlem Renaissance, the library became an important center for black cultural events and scholarship. This was due to the pioneering work of Branch Librarian Ernestine Rose, who began compiling a collection of black literature and history books beginning in the 1920s. As a result of this growing and influential collection, the library was renamed the 135th Street Branch Division of Negro Literature, History and Prints in 1925, and the following year, the NYPL increased it with the acquisition of historian, writer, and activist Arturo Alfonso Schomburg’s famous private collection. With its continued expansion, a new wing was added to the rear of the building on West 136th Street in 1941. With this addition, the library, which had doubled in size, was renamed the Countee Cullen Branch. In 1972 the collection was renamed the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture. In 1980, a new building was constructed at 515 Malcolm X Boulevard. The complex now represents three distinct eras for this venerable institution.

6 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries The Bronx

The Mott Haven 7 Branch was the first NYPL building Mott Haven Branch to be constructed NYPL in The Bronx. The 321 East 140th Street building’s strong, (Babb, Cook & Willard, Classical Revival 1905) style design was the – NYC HD, NR-D work of Babb, Cook & Willard, the same firm responsible for Andrew Carnegie’s own mansion on Fifth Avenue and East 91st Street. Its three-story, brick façades are marked by prominent limestone quoins at the corners and around the entrance. The building is within the Mott Haven Historic District, an oasis of historic architecture, a small-scale residential enclave surrounded by tall mid-century housing projects. The historic district was designated in 1967, making it one of the city’s first.

Hunts Point Branch NYPL 877 Southern Boulevard (Carrère & Hastings, 1929) – NYC IL

The Hunts Point Branch bears the distinction of being the very last of the Carnegie-funded NYPL branches to be built, and was among the 14 Carnegie-funded branches to be designed by Carrère & Hastings. The two-story, palazzo-inspired structure was designed in the Italian Renaissance Revival style with a blind arcade at the base and arched windows throughout. Its brick façades are accented with ornate terra-cotta details and stone trim. At the time of its construction, automobiles had become a common mode of transportation, so the facility also includes a one-story garage on its west side. The garage housed the Bronx Book Wagon, which served the community from 1928 (a year before the library opened) until the 1980s.

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Morrisania Branch NYPL 610 East 169th Street (Babb, Cook & Willard, 1908) – NYC IL Originally the McKinley Square Branch, the Morrisania community advocated strongly for a Carnegie library in their neighborhood, with over 1,500 petition signatures sent to the NYPL’s site committee. Their successful effort resulted in the construction of this freestanding, Classical Revival style building. The T-shaped building’s main façade is flanked by lower, recessed, two-story wings. Its design features include arched windows and a projecting stone portico entrance, above which is a large, carved stone Photo: @nkubota, Naho Kubota seal of the City of New York.

Staten Island

Port Richmond Branch NYPL 75 Bennett Street (Carrère & Hastings, 1904-05) – NYC IL

The first libraries on Staten Island were found within institutions and public schools as early as the 1830s, as a result of the influence of New England settlers. Prior to the establishment of branch libraries on Staten Island, public reading rooms began to operate in the mid-19th century. With the Carnegie grant, the NYPL established four branches on Staten Island, enlisting the help of residents to determine the best locations for each. The sites were chosen based on the borough’s concentrations of population and geographic diversity. Port Richmond has been a major port and commercial center on Staten Island since the early 19th century, and this library, situated across from a public park, has been an important civic structure since its completion. Its Classical Revival style façades feature a prominent, projecting central entrance bay with a grand, columned portico. 8 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries 11

Stapleton Branch NYPL 132 Canal Street (Carrère & Hastings, 1907; renovation: Andrew Berman, 2010-13) The Classical Revival design of the original Stapleton Branch is nearly identical to the Port Richmond Branch, which opened two years before. Like Port Richmond, it is also situated across from a public park. However, a 2013 rear addition introduced

Photo: @nkubota, Naho Kubota another phase to the building’s story and physical footprint, setting it apart from its brother in Port Richmond. The addition reoriented the library, decommissioning the original entrance on Canal Street in favor of a new entrance via the addition on Wright Street. The addition, which is not visible when viewing the 1907 building from the front, consists of wood structural posts with applied glazing, as well as a wood roof deck. The addition more than doubled the size of the branch.

In 1899, the Tottenville 12 Library Association established the Tottenville Branch Tottenville Free NYPL Library, Staten 7448 Brighton Street Island’s first free (Carrère & Hastings, 1904) public library with a – NYC IL dedicated space and professional staff. In 1903, the association merged with the NYPL and its collection was moved to the new Carnegie- funded branch – also Staten Island’s first – completed the following year. Tottenville, which had grown immensely over the 19th century due to thriving coastal industries, was the first community city-wide to submit an application for a Carnegie- funded branch when the program was announced in 1901. The resulting one-story, brick structure is Classical Revival in style, with a central, columned entrance portico capped by a triangular pediment, as well as a flared, hipped roof and arched windows. The building’s stucco and wood trim lends a rustic quality that differs from some other Carnegie branches, but was intended to relate to its bucolic context and the village- like character of Tottenville.

9 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries Brooklyn

Central Building BPL Grand Army Plaza at Flatbush Avenue and Eastern Parkway (Alfred Morton Githens & Francis Keally, 1941; sculptural The original 1907 design for the BPL’s elements: Thomas Hudson Jones and C. Paul Central Building was the work of Raymond Jennewein) – NYC IL, NR-P F. Almirall, the architect of the Pacific, Park Slope, Bushwick and Eastern Parkway Branches. The grand Beaux-Arts design, inspired by contemporary libraries in Europe, with a domed roof and colonnaded entrance, was meant to fit in stylistically with the nearby Brooklyn Museum and Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch. Though construction began in 1911, the project was beset with political and financial troubles and stalled in 1929. In 1935, architects Alfred Morton Githens and Francis Keally were commissioned to redesign the building, incorporating the completed foundations and steel structure. The resulting Modern Classical, limestone-clad building features a concave front façade with a 50-foot-tall entrance portico and striking sculpted Art Deco ornamentation. It is one of Brooklyn’s most well-known and frequently used public buildings.

Brooklyn’s first Carnegie library, 14 the Pacific Branch Pacific Branch (named for its BPL location at Pacific 25 Fourth Avenue Street) was heralded upon completion (Raymond F. Almirall, for its dignified 1903) Beaux-Arts design. The interior of the building, which has retained its original two-story stacks, was also praised for its light, air and efficient use of space. The building’s brick façades feature prominent limestone trim, including keystones above the arched door and window openings and oversized torches and swags supporting the cornice. The building has had a difficult history, including early damage in 1914 during the construction of the nearby subway, as well as a number of fires. Murals completed in 1939 by the Works Progress Administration graced the second floor for a number of years, but are no longer extant. Despite widespread support, the branch is not a designated city landmark. In 2013, it was under threat of being sold to a developer, but public outcry and political pressure led the BPL to reconsider these plans. 10 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries 15

Park Slope Branch BPL 431 Sixth Avenue (Raymond F. Almirall, 1905-06) – NYC IL This library was originally the Prospect Branch, housed beginning in 1900 in Prospect Park’s Litchfield Villa and consisting solely of books related to natural history. As Park Slope’s population grew, the demand for a larger, all-purpose library led to its relocation in 1901 to several storefronts on 9th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues. By 1904, the city purchased a large site and began planning for a new Carnegie-funded building. Its name was changed to Park Slope in 1975. The Classical Revival style, brick-clad building with limestone trim features an imposing, projecting portico entrance with Doric columns and a stone pediment. Like those found on the Pacific Branch, the torches in the keystones above the entrance and windows represent the light of learning. Its intact interior features stained glass, tiled fireplaces, wood paneling and marble mosaic floors.

The simple, freestanding Brownsville 16a Branch, today flanked by high- Brownsville Branch rise public housing, BPL was once bounded 61 Glenmore Avenue by single-family residences. Before (Lord & Hewlett, 1908) it opened, the 16b neighborhood was growing so Stone Avenue Branch dramatically that BPL the building had 581 Mother Gaston Boulevard to be enlarged before it was completed. Due to overwhelming demand by local children, another site (William B. Tubby, 1914) just six blocks to the south was purchased at Stone – NYC IL (now Mother Gaston Boulevard) and Dumont Avenues for the Brownsville Children’s Library. Stylistically divergent from the other Carnegie libraries, the Brownsville Children’s Library was designed in the Jacobethan style, rendering it a sort of hybrid between library and fairytale castle. It is said to be one of the world’s first public libraries devoted to children. The exterior features stone carvings depicting characters

11 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries and scenes from children’s literature, while the interior embraces a child-appropriate scale and features beloved details, like rabbits carved into the wooden benches. After World War II, the library opened to all age groups, renaming itself the Stone Avenue Branch.

Queens

Central Library QBPL 89-11 Merrick Boulevard (Kiff, Colean, Voss & Souder, the

In the early 1960s, when an expansion of the Office of York & Sawyer, 1966; four-story, Georgian Revival style Central renovation: Gensler, 2013; Children’s Library at 89-14 Parsons Boulevard was deemed Library Discovery Center: 1100 necessary, an entirely new building was planned Architect and Lee H. Skolnick instead. The old building, completed in 1931, was Architecture and Design Partnership, repurposed as a courthouse, and has since been 2011) replaced by a large apartment building. Located six blocks to the east, the new Central Library was lauded for its functional and streamlined approach to book circulation, with supermarket-like checkout counters and conveyor belts and electric dumbwaiters for book returns. The library includes a large collection on the history of Queens and Long Island. Its simple exterior features two wall-mounted reliefs by sculptor Milton Hebald. In 2011, the Children’s Library Discovery Center wing was added on 90th Avenue, and in 2013, renovations to the main building, including glass at the recessed entryway, were completed.

The Flushing Branch 18 of the QBPL was Queens’ first public Flushing Branch library. Established as QBPL the Flushing Library 41-17 Main Street Association in 1858 and (Polshek Partnership, 1998) open to members as a subscription library, it became a free circulating library in 1869. In 1906, a Carnegie-funded structure designed by Lord & Hewlett in the Georgian Revival style replaced the wood frame building on this site. The Carnegie building was demolished in the mid-1950s and replaced with a Modern style building, completed in 1957. In 1993, that building was demolished to make way for the branch’s latest phase, a sweeping glass and steel structure completed in 1998. 12 — Historic Districts Council — Historic Public Libraries A relative latecomer amongst the early 19 20th century garden apartment buildings Jackson Heights Branch and homes that QBPL characterize the 35-51 81st Street Jackson Heights Historic District, (S. Keller, 1949-52) the Jackson – NYC HD Heights Branch was constructed just after World War II. The building is an excellent example of the International Style with its simple, asymmetrical and unornamented facade. The cast stone and glass building with a flat roof occupies a large midblock site. The box-shaped entryway includes a recessed bay made up of three glass and aluminum doors with transoms and windows rising to the second floor. On either side of the entrance bay are two vertical rows of small square window openings, which provide some of the only ornament on the façade. Above the entrance, the raised metal letters and numbers identifying the library still retain their mid-century typeface.

Poppenhusen Branch QBPL 121-23 14th Avenue

(Heins & La Farge, The only Carnegie-funded library to be designed by the 1904) – NYC IL noted firm of Heins & La Farge, this building resembles those contemporaneously designed by the firm for the Bronx Zoo’s Astor Court. The firm was also responsible for a number of the city’s subway stations and for early designs of the Cathedral of St. John the Divine. The citizens of College Point donated the land for the library and the books were donated by the Poppenhusen Institute, founded in 1868 by German-American businessman Conrad Poppenhusen as a kindergarten and community center. The stipulation of the institute’s gift was that the library would bear its name. The Classical Revival style library is clad in yellow Roman brick with limestone trim, and features a projecting entrance bay with stone banding and a broken pediment above the arched doorway, an ornate cornice with stone shells and two stone cartouches with reliefs of open books. A rear addition was constructed in 1937.

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