WEEKENDER This image: Tudor buildings on Church Street in the town centre Below: The Old Market Hall JOHN HAYWARD/MH COUNTRY/ALAMY HAYWARD/MH JOHN © PHOTOS: hrewsbury is compact and wool trade, buying in Welsh cloth to finish characterful, sheltered from the and then sell on. The Old Market Hall that modern world by a loop of the River occupies Shrewsbury Square today was Severn that all but makes its town completed in 1597, though a market has centre an island. Since the plot was first been held here since the mid-13th century. occupied by the Anglo-Saxons, Shrewsbury Indeed, Shrewsbury’s Tudor roots remain Shas been a buzzing hub of British business, remarkably intact, with numerous black and with 660 listed buildings, ranging and white houses lining cobbled streets. from its Norman castle to its trailblazing A little further out of the centre hides Georgian mill, you’ll find the evidence one of the town’s lesser-known but everywhere you look. landmark claims to fame: Shrewsbury Previously known as Pengwern, Flaxmill Maltings was constructed in Shrewsbury was the seat of the Welsh princes 1797 using an innovative cast-iron frame, of the kingdom of Powys throughout the 5th making it grandparent of the skyscraper – and 6th centuries. Later they were conquered even if it’s only five storeys tall. Historic by King Offa and the town was absorbed England are now in the latter stages of into Mercia, the most powerful kingdom in its long overdue renovation. Anglo-Saxon England. Close to the England/ Another notable feature of the Shrewsbury Wales border, Shrewsbury’s strategic position skyline is Laura’s Tower at the castle, which on the river peninsula made it was built by Thomas Telford a prized conquest and much in 1790 for the daughter of fought over. MP Sir William Pulteney, It was 1074 by the time a as a 21st birthday present. relative of William the Conqueror, RogerSHREWSBURY Intended as a (very extravagant) summer de Montgomery, was created first Earl Shropshire’s proudly independent house, from the top you can spy the full of Shrewsbury and a red sandstone castle county town has both a unique coil of the Severn and spot both the abbey, to guard the town’s river crossings was founded by the first earl, and cathedral. completed. Through the Middle Ages heritage and a contemporary buzz Allegedly, when Henry VIII offered the town’s merchants prospered from the WORDS JENNY ROWE Shrewsbury cathedral city status, its www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN 63 WEEKENDER For more things to see and do in burgesses – the town’s officials Shropshire, see a coffee or even an ice cream in THE PLANNER – turned down his offer, seeding www.britain- hand and watch rowers glide by. the term ‘proud Salopian’, which magazine.com In normal times, we’d GETTING THERE captures their resistance to change. recommend you time your There are irregular Avanti West Coast trains The term is still used, referring to visit to coincide with one of that run direct from London Euston to Shrewsbury residents who are proud of Shrewsbury Shrewsbury’s annual festivals. Its in around 2hr 30min. Alternatively, at least every hour just as it is. Winter Festival delivers crafts and carols you can catch a train to Crewe, and change there for Regardless of the town’s earlier attitude, in the Quarry, whereas in the summer the Shrewsbury (2hr 45min). www.avantiwestcoast.co.uk; a cathedral was eventually built in 1856 Flower Show is popular. In 2021, however, www.thetrainline.com to the design of Edward Pugin, the son of Shrewsbury is focusing on recreating this Augustus Pugin, architect of Big Ben. The atmosphere all summer with laid-back live EAT, DRINK, SLEEP cathedral’s conservators recently uncovered music and pavement cafés and restaurants. Packed with artisanal delis and quirky cafés, you 19th-century Biblical wall paintings hidden And if any town can revive its free spirit will be spoilt for choice. For a top-notch sandwich, try under layers of paint; a project is underway post pandemic, it’s Shrewsbury. The steep Philpotts, who are award-winning and charmingly situated to restore them to their former glory. and winding Wyle Cop is believed to have in the 15th-century Abbots House along Butcher Row. To fully immerse yourself in Shrewsbury’s the longest uninterrupted row of independent Nearby is Number Four, where there is the option history, take to the water courtesy of shops in England, most of them kookily to be seated outside on the cobbles, or you could Sabrina. As part of her popular 45-minute crammed onto overhanging Tudor buildings. try the newbie on the block, The Orchard Cafe, part-guided cruises, you’ll sail past the Some retailers are new and passionate about set in the cathedral grounds. ‘Slinky’, an abstract structure that celebrates joining this unique hub, while others are old The only AA four-star hotel in the town centre, the Shrewsbury’s most famous son: Charles hands – Tanners Wine Merchants, located at Prince Rupert Hotel is the pick of the bunch. Also located Darwin. Thought to represent dinosaur the bottom of the hill, was first established in on Butcher Row, this Grade II-listed hotel boasts 12th- bones, DNA or a backbone, its proper 1842. You could “wyle” away a whole day century Mansion House Suites, 15th-century Tudor Suites name is The Quantum Leap and it was on this single street, but if you do need and three fabulous restaurants, as well as its own tearoom erected in 2009 to mark the bicentenary of further entertainment, you’re in luck, with and garden courtyard. www.philpotts-shrewsbury.com; the British naturalist’s birth in Shrewsbury. the Roman ruins of Wroxeter close by, www.number-four.com; www.orchardshrew.co.uk; Afterwards, if you’re seeking dry land and as well as the stately Attingham Park and www.princeruperthotel.co.uk wide, green spaces, head to the Quarry, Battlefield 1403, the site of the bloody Battle a 29-acre expanse of riverside parkland where of Shrewsbury, a precursor to the Wars of FURTHER INFORMATION you can mosey along shaded pathways with the Roses. i www.originalshrewsbury.co.uk Clockwise, from this image: The Drawing Room at Attingham Park; Shrewsbury Castle; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL/TRAVELLINGLIGHT/ALAMY/SHREWSBURY BID EINSIEDEL/TRAVELLINGLIGHT/ALAMY/SHREWSBURY VON IMAGES/ANDREAS TRUST NATIONAL © Sabrina cruises along the River Severn PHOTOS: 64 BRITAIN www.britain-magazine.com.