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Open the Program WELCOME PAGE Be Part of the Conversation Tag your posts on social media #TSAHiddenStoriesHumanLives #TSA2020 Like us on Facebook: @textilesocietyofamerica Follow us on Instagram: @textilesociety Attendee Directory The attendee directory is available through Crowd Compass If you have any questions, please contact Caroline Hayes Charuk: [email protected]. Please note that the information published in this program and is subject to change. Please check textilesocietyofamerica.org for the most up-to-date infor- mation. TABLE OF CONTENTS About the Symposium . 1 The Theme .......................................................1 Symposium Chairs ................................................1 Symposium Organizers . .2 Welcome from TSA President, Lisa Kriner . 4 Donors & Sponsors . 8 Symposium Schedule at a Glance . 11 Welcome from the Symposium Program Co-Chairs . 12 Keynote & Plenary Sessions . 14 Sanford Biggers..................................................14 Julia Bryan-Wilson................................................15 Jolene K. Rickard.................................................16 Biennial Symposium Program . 17 Session Abstracts . 26 Presenter Bios. 128 Awards and Scholarships . 201 TSA Fellows ...................................................201 Founding Presidents Award Nominees............................203 Student & New Professional Awardees............................204 2020 TSA Brandford/Elliott Award for Excellence in Fiber Art ........205 Symposium Scholarship Fee Waiver Recipients . 206 Marketplace . 208 Author Guidelines: Symposium 2020 Proceedings . 215 About TSA . 218 Mission Statement.............................................. 218 Our Focus on Diversity.......................................... 218 Board Members 2018-2020 . 218 Directors at Large .............................................. 219 Staff .......................................................... 219 VolunteersPast Presidents....................................... 219 Previous Symposia Venues and Hosts . 220 3 ABOUT THE SYMPOSIUM ABOUT THE SYMPOSIUM The Theme The theme Hidden Stories/Human Lives presents opportunities to reveal complex and hidden stories of global textile making and coincides with the 100th anniversary of the 19th Amendment to the United States Constitution. Yet, just as the voices of women of color, marginalized by the suffrage movement, are only now being recognized, the stories of the many human lives that have contributed—directly and indirectly—to textile making, including enslaved people, immigrant entrepreneurs, and industrial laborers, remain untold. With this symposium, we hope to get “behind the curtain” to explore the wider human network engaged in textile production, bringing to light hidden stories and excluded voices of all kinds, genders, and colors. Hidden Stories/Human Lives is a flexible theme that can accommodate a range of presentations and artist talks, from focused papers on or by individual makers and/or objects to broader subjects that examine peoples, systems, and societies involved in global textile making. T A TSA sought proposals for individual papers/presentations, artist talks, orga- B L E nized panels, roundtable discussions, film/digital media, and “Warp Speed” O talks from all textile-related disciplines and interdisciplinary areas, including but F C O N not limited to anthropology, archaeology, art history, conservation, craft, design, TE N economics, ethnic studies, geography, history, linguistics, marketing, material T S culture studies, mathematics, political science, science, sociology, studio art, technology, theater, and others. We encouraged and desired original submis- sions from individuals from the widest variety of backgrounds and heritages. In addition, for 2020, we encouraged the submission of complete organized panels and/or roundtable discussions. For all submission categories, the peer review committee selected submissions that cogently and directly addressed the theme of the symposium and presented new research or work. Symposium Chairs Pamela A. Parmal, Chair and David and Roberta Logie Curator of Textile and Fashion Arts Emeritus recently retired from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (MFA), where she worked since 2014. She previously worked as assistant and then associate curator at the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design. Parmal has worked with encyclopedic collections in both museums and curated and written on work as varied as contemporary fashion and Japanese Noh costume. Her exhibitions and publications include Fashion Show/Paris Style (2006); Embroidery of Colonial Boston (2011-2012) and the accompanying 4 ABOUT THE SYMPOSIUM publication Women’s Work: Embroidery in Colonial Boston (2012); Quilts and Color: The Pilgrim/Roy Collection, 2014; and #techstyle (2016). She has also co-curated and co-authored the forthcoming exhibition and book Fabric of a Nation: American Quilt Stories, 2021. Parmal co-chaired the 2002 TSA Biennial Symposium, Silk Roads/Other Roads and served on the TSA board from 2002 to 2008 and as TSA president from 2004 to 2006. Lauren Whitley is senior curator emerita at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (MFA). During her twenty-eight years in the David and Roberta Logie Department of Textile and Fashion Arts at the MFA, she helped oversee a global collection of 55,000 textiles, cos- tumes, and fashion accessories and curated more than fourteen exhibitions including #techstyle, Hippie Chic, Ed Rossbach Fiber Art, Threads on the Edge: Fiber Art from the Daphne Farago Collection. Most recently she co-curated the exhibition Fabric of a Nation: American Quilt Stories which will open to the public in May 2021. Ms. Whitley holds an MA degree from the Fashion Institute of Technology, SUNY, and received her BA in art history from Trinity College in Hartford, Connecticut. She is currently a PhD T candidate in humanities at Salve Regina University in Rhode Island, where she is A B L E focusing her research on fashion at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. O F C O N Symposium Organizers TE N T TSA Executive Committee: Lisa Kriner, Melinda Watt, Vita Plume, Owyn Ruck, S and Lesli Robertson TSA Executive Director: Caroline Hayes Charuk Symposium Organizing Committee & Academic Program Co-Chairs: Pamela Parmal and Lauren Whitley Volunteer Coordinator: Catherine Tutter Marketplace Coordinator: Marissa Cote Warp Speed Coordinator: Lee Talbot Registration Management: Caroline Hayes Charuk Grants: Elena Phipps Awards and Scholarships Committee: Isaac Facio, Linda Eaton, and Vita Plume PDF Program Editors: Diane Fagan Affleck and Meredith Affleck Symposium Proceedings Editor: Lynn Tinley Readers and reviewers for presentation submissions, awards, and scholar- ships: Ruth Barnes, Lynne Bassett, Pieranna Cavalchini, Mary Dusenbury, Diane Fagan Affleck, Tess Fredette, Cynthia Fowler, Karen Hampton, Kate Irvin, Anna Rose Keefe, Mary McWilliams, Pam Parmal, Elena Phipps, Mei Mei Rado, Petra Slinkard, Lauren Whitley 5 WElcOME FROM TSA PRESIDENT LIsa KRINER WELCOME FROM TSA PRESIDENT LISA KRINER On behalf of the entire TSA Board, we welcome you to the 17th Biennial Textile Society of America Symposium, Hidden Stories, Human Lives . This is an unprece- dented symposium during unprecedented times. While I am disappointed that we cannot be together in person exploring and enjoying Boston, I am excited about how the online platform gives so many people, from all over the world, the ability to come together. The symposium theme and the open call for papers, panels, roundtables, artist presentations, and warp speed presentations inspired and encouraged a global response with a record number of submissions to present. The results of this wide-ranging participa- tion are an exciting and intellectually engaging program. I am grateful to all of this year’s participants, presenters and audience, for taking the time to bring your knowledge, ideas, and your stories to our global gathering. I hope this T A symposium, and its broad reach, will help us all explore our field more deeply. B L E O A symposium is a result of a tremendous amount of personal and professional F C O energy and creativity. This year was no exception, and I am grateful to all the N TE people who came together over the past two years to make this extraordi- N T nary event happen. I want especially to recognize and thank Pam Parmal and S Lauren Whitley, the 2020 TSA Symposium program chairs. From the start their vision of the universality of textiles in our lives and how, through interaction and study of these textiles, we can come to better understand our personal his- tories has driven the program. Pam and Lauren led a tremendous symposium planning committee who read abstracts seeking the human stories behind and embedded in textiles. Working with both Pam and Lauren has been a joy. Through this roller-coaster of a planning process, they always believed that this remarkable program was possible and worked especially hard to bring it together. Their positive spirits and creative thinking have carried us through. Thank you to all who helped with symposium outreach and archiving. Thank you Ayaka Sano for putting together such visually enticing social media posts. Thank you to Meredith Affleck for her amazing design of this year’s digital program. Perhaps like me, you had a hard time deciding for which sessions to register. Please know that most sessions are being recorded and will be available to stream online. We will also be publishing the Proceedings from this symposium through the Digital
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