Olive Oil Gets a Desi Twist

NUTRITION without altering the original taste,” explained Ali. Such culinary creations are not to be seen in isolation. In various parts Olive Oil of the country, there are efforts to enhance the health quotient of a dish, which would otherwise contain dollops of desi ghee. gets a Higher Taste, the Sattvic restaurant at ISKCON Bangalore is in the process of experimenting with olive oil, especially when it comes to seasoning. “We have learnt that seasoning Desi Twist rasam and sambar with olive oil does not alter the taste or flavour. Kavitha Srinivasa, Bangalore Vegetable dishes like poriyal and varuval can be successfully made with olive oil,” added Kaivalyapati Sample this. At the Leela Palace Das, Executive Chef, Higher Taste. Bangalore, one of their fast selling The tagline of Higher Taste is items on the Indian menu is made to serve healthy food and this is with olive oil. The kitchen brigade researched at an internal food lab. arrived at the dish because they “These dishes need to pass through wanted to make health-centric In- a green lighting process, which is dian dishes. With some experiments, underway right now. We see these the team zeroed in on Bharta Zaitoo- dishes being offered to our custom- ni. For the uninitiated, it is Baingan ers on an intermittent basis in the ka Bharta, brinjal/aubergine roasted near future,” said Chamari Devi and mashed, made with olive oil and Dasi and Kaivalyapati Das, Joint garnished with black olives. “We Heads, Food Innovation and Engi- didn’t have to tweak the recipe, but neering, Higher Taste. replaced oil and ghee with olive oil. It made a world of a difference. A high incidence of cardiac dis- We use 200 ml olive oil for 3,000 eases, coupled with the fact that gm of large brinjals, in place of 300 olive oil may help lower hyperten- Binging on Indian junk gm of ghee. Even for the roasting, sion, inflammation and problems food is now guilt-free raw brinjal is brushed with olive oil associated with obesity have created before tandoor-roasting happens,” a market for it in India. Olive oil is eating, thanks to olive oil, said Farman Ali, Corporate Master high in monounsaturated fats and which keeps it light and Chef Indian Cuisine, The Leela Pal- has antioxidants, a trademark that healthy. It’s a slim chance aces, Hotels and Resorts, The Leela convinced Krishna Shantakumar, the Palace Bangalore. Since then, this general manager of Aswati Group, of adding kilos has been a favourite among gour- which owns On the Edge restaurant mands. “We can use the olive oil in in Bangalore. As high-end chefs Kadhai vegetables, which reduces used olive oil to whip up gourmet the calorie content, while retaining dishes at the fine dining Italian res- the zestful flavour. It can also be taurant, Shantakumar decided to try used in chicken dishes like Murgh out olive oil at home. The intuition Zartaar, Murgh Do Pyaza and murgh was right. Ever since he switched to stew to enhance the health benefits olive oil, he has never regretted it. 62 Health Cafe December 2011 H C Health Cafe December 2011 63 ing kebabs in Hyderabad and prawn I started the importing olive oil in curry in Kolkata. On both occasions, 2003, there was hardly any olive oil the dish was tastier and much lighter variants in the stores, expect for the compared to what it was when made ones in small tins, used for massage with the regular refined oil or clari- or for fancy cooking by expats,” ex- fied butter,” explained Bal. plained Chandhok. He realized that olive oil had to be integrated into Olive oil consumption shows a Indian cuisine to gain significance. healthy sign. According to data “We decided that in addition to published by the Indian Olive As- Extra Virgin Olive oil (the one with sociation (IOA), exports from Italy the strongest aroma) and the ‘Pure’ and Spain to India were 3,988 MT Olive oil (having significant aroma) in 2010 versus 2,617 MT in 2009, we would launch ‘Extra Light’ as its representing a growth of 52%, with neutral aroma would not turn off the similar aggressive growth trends Indian consumers from trying it,” he predicted for the coming years. explained. Subsequently customer IOA aims to popularize olive oil. education happened through in-store “IOA strives to increase awareness tastings and with time, the Extra about olives and olive oil among the Light Olive oil became the medium “Once you reach a critical age, it’s people, especially with reference to for cooking in many Indian house- best to opt for olive oil. Of course, its nutritional and health aspects,” holds. “Though some unsaturated this can happen only after mindsets explained VN Dalmia, President, oils reduce cholesterol, they reduce change,” said Shantakumar and Indian Olive Association. total cholesterol (both good and bad added that awareness created by Besides IOA, VN Dalmia also cholesterol) whereas only olive oil zippy food shows enabled people promotes the Leonardo Olive brand. increases good cholesterol or HDL make conscious choices. “This has “We introduced Leonardo Olive Cholesterol. Now if instead of using helped shatter myths about olive oil, Pomace Oil for Indian food. Extra 5L of the cheaper oil every month, that being it carries the smell of ol- Virgin Olive Oil presented problems the olive oil consumption will be ives. Olive oil is suited for frying at with frying: it was unstable at high about 3.5L,” Chandhok added. a moderate temperature, as the food temperatures and imparted an olive While describing the nuances of absorbs the oil. My rotis, cutlets and flavour to the food and changed flavor it unleashes, Chandhok hailed dosas are made with olive oil,” said the taste,” said VN Dalmia, Chair- olive oil as king, which enhanced Shantakumar, sharing the experi- man, Dalmia Continental, owners the flavour of vegetables, meat, fish ence. Olive oil forms a crisp, golden of Leonardo Olive Oil. People who and chicken. crust while frying food between tried it concluded that olive oil 130C and 190C. The food remains was unsuitable for Indian cooking. Though olive trees live up to 1,000 light and digestible and after filter- “Olive Pomace Oil didn’t have any years, olive oil should be consumed ing the oil, it can be reused two- of these problems,” highlighted within 12-14 months from the pro- three times. Dalmia. When Leonardo entered, duction date. DCPL chose to focus on Indian In his television series Olive it cuisine and daily use, the volume Up, celebrity chef Aditya Bal has growth driver. The effort was to de- demonstrated how olive oil can be velop recipes and tie-up with chefs adapted to an Indian fare by travel- and restaurants for integrating Leon- ing to metros and cooking local ardo Olive Oil in Indian cuisine. delicacies with it. “Olive oil can be Olive oil is produced in Spain, Italy, used for gentle frying and sauté- Tunisia, Syria, Algeria, Morocco ing. It can be used for dressings and and Turkey and many imported making marinades,” said Bal. In his brands are available in India. Anil show, Bal has whipped up delica- Chandhok, Director, Chenab Impex cies. “We’ve used olive oil for mak- Pvt. Ltd. imports olive oil. “When 64 Health Cafe December 2011.

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