GETTING READY

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

CPS5XV[Y

Computerized Sewing Machine Operation Manual Enclosed Accessories

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your retailer.

Accessories

The following items should also be enclosed in the box.

Note (For U.S.A. only)  Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-600.  Screw of the presser foot holder (Part code: XA4813- 051).  Organized accessory tray (Part code: XC4489-051)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.*

20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29.

30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35.

*75/11 2 needles 90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

Part Code Part Code No. Part Name No. Part Name U.S.A. Others U.S.A. Others 1 Buttonhole foot "A" XC2691-051 19 Needle set X58358-051 2 Overcasting foot "G" XC3098-051 20 Twin needle X59296-051 3 Monogramming foot "N" X53840-351 21 Cleaning brush X59476-051 4 Zipper foot "I" X59370-051 22 Eyelet punch 135793-001 5 Zigzag foot "J" (on machine) XC3021-051 23 Screwdriver (large) X55467-051 6 Blind stitch foot "R" X56409-051 24 Screwdriver (small) X55468-051 7 Button fitting foot "M" 130489-001 25 Spool cap (large) 130012-054 8 Walking foot SA140 F033N (XC2214-002) 26 Spool cap (medium)(2) X55260-153 9 foot SA129 F005N (XC1948-002) 27 Spool cap (small) 130013-154 10 Stitch guide foot "P" SA160 F035 (XA8839-002) 28 Extra spool pin XC4654-051 11 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161 F036N (XC1970-002) 29 Spool net XA5523-050 12 Non stick foot SA114 F007N (XC1949-002) 30 Foot controller XC1154-051 13 Open toe foot SA147 F027N (XC1964-002) 31 Grid sheet set SA527 GS4 (XC4549-051) 14 1/4 inch quilting foot SA125 F001N (XC1944-002) 32 Knee lifter XA6941-052 15Side cutterSA177F054 (XC3879-002)33Operation manualXC5427-051 XC4546-151, 16Quilting guideSA132F016N (XC2215-002)34Quick reference guideXC5434-051 17 Seam ripper X54243-001 35 Hard case XC2360-152 18 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB (XA5539-151)

Cover A Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Front view

2 GETTING READY

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0 9 TCHES a Thread guide plate j Operation buttons b Thread guide cover Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when and automatically cut the thread. (page Cover D) threading the upper thread. k Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment c Spool pin Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory

Place the spool on the spool pin. compartment of the flat bed attachment. When INDEX sewing APPENDIX cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment. d Thread guide for bobbin winding Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding l Thread cutter the bobbin thread. Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. e Upper cover m Needle threader lever Open the upper cover to place the spool of thread on Use the needle threader to thread the needle. the spool pin. f Bobbin winder Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin. g Operation panel Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation panel. (page Cover E) h Sewing speed controller Use the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed. i Knee lifter mounting slot Plug the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot.

Cover B Needle and presser foot Right-side/rear view section OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS 1 1 2 2 3 3

4 GETTING READY

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5 8 8 7 5 7 6 6 a Buttonhole lever a Presser foot dial Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of and bar tacks. pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric. b Thread guide discs b Handle Pass the thread through the thread guide discs when Carry the sewing machine by its handle when using the needle threader to thread the needle. transporting the machine. c Needle bar thread hook c Balance wheel Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower hook. the needle to sew one stitch. d Needle plate d Air vent The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be straight seams. exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing e Bobbin cover/Shuttle machine is being used. Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin e Main power switch TCHES into the shuttle. Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine f Feed dogs on and off. The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. f Foot controller jack g Presser foot Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the into the foot controller jack. fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate g Power supply jack

presser foot for the selected stitching. Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the INDEX power APPENDIX h Presser foot holder supply jack. The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder. h Feed dog position switch Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

Memo z Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you are learning to use your machine.

Cover C Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine UTILITY STI operations. SEWING BASICS CONTENTS 2 3

5 GETTING READY 1 4

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a Start/stop button Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The CAUTION machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is ● Do not press the thread cutter button stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, after the threads have already been cut, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending otherwise the needle may break, the on how the sewing machine is being operated. threads may become tangled or damage Green: When the machine is ready to start to the machine may occur. sewing or while it is sewing Red: When the machine is not ready to start sewing Note Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is z Do not press the thread cutter button if there moved to the right for winding the bobbin thread onto the bobbin is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to TCHES b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button the machine may occur. Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew z reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to thread or other special threads, use the sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches thread cutter on the side of the machine. For are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page For details, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 50). 51). PEDXINDEX APPENDIX c Needle position button Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch. d Thread cutter button Press the thread cutter button after stopping sewing to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51). e Sewing speed controller Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed. f Presser foot lever Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

Cover D Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS of the LCD (liquid crystal CONTENTS display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.

1 4 GETTING READY 5 2 6 3 7 8 9

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a LCD (liquid crystal display) h Back key Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for Press this key to return to the previous screen. incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b through i, described below, to display various items i Settings key and select the settings. For details, refer to Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for

"Understanding the LCD Screens" (page 12). automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching, or other TCHES settings such as the operation beep. b Sewing machine help key j Press this key to display operation information. Simple Stitch keys Use these keys to quickly select one of 12 of the most descriptions on threading the upper thread, installing the bobbin, winding the bobbin and replacing the often used stitches. For details, refer to "Selecting Stitching" (page 66). presser foot can be displayed. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX c Stitch selection key Press this key to select the desired type of stitch. d + key Press this key to add a pattern when sewing combinations of characters or decorative stitches. e C key Press this key to remove an added pattern when sewing combinations of characters or decorative stitches. f Arrow keys Use these keys to move in the indicated direction when selecting an item displayed on the screen. In addition, can be pressed to select a lower setting and can be pressed to select a higher setting. g OK key Press this key to apply the selected item.

Cover E Optional Accessories

Optional Accessories OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The following are available as optional accessories.

1. GETTING READY

1. Wide table Part code: SA537, WT2 (XC4541-051)

Memo z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized service center. TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

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Introduction OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the "Important Safety Instructions" (page 6), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.

Sewing Machine Features GETTING READY

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4 TCHES a Easy upper threading Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition, the needle can be threaded with a simple operation. (page 24) b Full auto upper thread tension

The thread tension is adjusted automatically. INDEX APPENDIX c Automatic thread-cutting The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching. (page 58) d One-touch lower threading You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 22) e Simple bobbin-winding The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 18) f Built-in stitches You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches. Twelve of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the stitch keys. (page 66) g Knee lifter Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric. (page 61)

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Contents OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Enclosed Accessories ...... Cover A Accessories ...... Cover A Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...... Cover B Front view...... Cover B Needle and presser foot section ...... Cover C Right-side/rear view ...... Cover C

Operation buttons ...... Cover D GETTING READY Operation panel...... Cover E Optional Accessories...... 1 Introduction ...... 2 Sewing Machine Features ...... 2 Important Safety Instructions ...... 6

GETTING READY 9 Turning the Machine On/Off...... 10 Power supply precautions ...... 10 Turning on the machine ...... 11 Turning off the machine ...... 11 Understanding the LCD Screens...... 12 Checking machine operating procedures ...... 13 Changing the Machine Settings ...... 14 Changing the settings ...... 14 Changing the needle stop position ...... 16 Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ...... 16 Changing the screen language...... 17 Winding/Installing the Bobbin...... 18 Bobbin precautions ...... 18 Winding the bobbin ...... 18

Installing the bobbin ...... 22 TCHES Upper Threading ...... 24 Threading the upper thread ...... 24 Threading the needle ...... 27 Using the twin needle ...... 28 Using thread that winds off quickly ...... 31 Pulling up the bobbin thread...... 31 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Replacing the Needle ...... 33 Needle precautions ...... 33 Needle types and their uses...... 34 Checking the needle ...... 35 Replacing the needle...... 35 Replacing the Presser Foot ...... 37 Presser foot precautions ...... 37 Replacing the presser foot ...... 37 Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ...... 39 Removing the presser foot holder ...... 39 Using the walking foot ...... 40 Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces...... 42 Stitching cylindrical pieces...... 42 Sewing large pieces of fabric...... 42

SEWING BASICS 45 Sewing...... 46 3 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

General sewing procedure ...... 46 Positioning the fabric ...... 47 Starting to sew...... 48

Securing the stitching ...... UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS ...... 50 CONTENTS Cutting the thread ...... 51 Adjusting the Thread Tension ...... 53 Thread tension ...... 53 Changing the tension of the upper thread...... 54 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ...... 55 Adjusting the stitch width...... 55 Adjusting the stitch length ...... 56

Useful Functions...... 57 GETTING READY Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ...... 57 Automatically cutting the thread ...... 58 Saving stitch settings ...... 60 Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot...... 61 Useful Sewing Tips ...... 62 Trial sewing ...... 62 Changing the sewing direction ...... 62 Sewing curves ...... 62 Sewing thick fabrics ...... 63 Sewing thin fabrics...... 63 Sewing stretch fabrics...... 63 Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics ...... 64 Sewing an even seam allowance...... 64

UTILITY STITCHES 65 Selecting Stitching...... 66 Stitch types...... 66 Selecting stitching ...... 66 Overcasting Stitches...... 68 Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" ...... 68 Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" ...... 69 Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter ...... 70 Basic Stitching ...... 72 TCHES Basting ...... 72 Basic stitching ...... 73 Blind Hem Stitching ...... 74 Buttonhole Stitching...... 76 Buttonhole sewing ...... 77 Button sewing ...... 81 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Zipper Insertion...... 83 Inserting a centered zipper ...... 83 Inserting a side zipper ...... 85 Zipper/piping Insertion ...... 88 Inserting a centered zipper ...... 88 Inserting a piping ...... 89 Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape...... 90 Stretch stitching...... 90 Elastic attaching ...... 90 Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ...... 92 Appliqué stitching ...... 93 Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ...... 94 Piecing...... 94 Quilting ...... 96 Free-motion quilting...... 97 Satin stitching...... 98 Reinforcement Stitching ...... 100 Triple stretch stitching ...... 100 4 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Bar tack stitching...... 100 ...... 102 Eyelet Stitching...... 104 Horizontal Stitching ...... 105 UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Decorative Stitching...... 107 Fagoting ...... 108 Scallop stitching...... 109 ...... 109 Shell tuck stitching ...... 110 Joining ...... 111 Heirloom stitching ...... 112

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns...... 115 GETTING READY Sewing beautiful patterns ...... 115 Sewing patterns...... 115 Combining patterns...... 116 Repeat sewing patterns...... 117 Checking the selected pattern ...... 118 Changing the pattern size...... 119 Changing the stitch density ...... 120 Changing the pattern length ...... 120 Shifting patterns ...... 121 Mirror imaging the pattern ...... 122 Storing a pattern...... 123 Realigning the pattern ...... 124 Designing a Pattern ...... 126 Drawing a sketch of the pattern...... 126 Entering the pattern data ...... 127 Examples of designs ...... 129

APPENDIX 131 Stitch Settings...... 132 Utility stitches ...... 132 Other stitches...... 137 Maintenance...... 140 Cleaning the machine surface ...... 140 TCHES Cleaning the shuttle ...... 140 Troubleshooting ...... 142 Error messages ...... 146 Nothing appears in the LCD...... 147 Easily adjusting the thread tension...... 147 Operation beep...... 148 Cancelling the operation beep ...... 148 INDEX APPENDIX Removing the upper cover ...... 149 Index ...... 150

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Important Safety Instructions OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:

Read all instructions before using.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from GETTING READY the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol " " position which represents off, then

remove plug from outlet. TCHES 9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 10.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle. 11.Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12.Do not use bent needles.

13.Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. INDEX APPENDIX 14.Switch the machine to the symbol " " position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like. 15.Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 16.This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision. 17.Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine. 18.If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS This machine is intended for household use.

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS IMPORTANT If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug.

NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is GETTING READY hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.

The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code: Blue Neutral

Brown Live

As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.

The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or colored black or blue. TCHES The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or colored red or brown. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using UTILITY STI the SEWING BASICS machine. CONTENTS

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE

For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread take-

up lever, needle, or other moving parts. GETTING READY 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: • Operation is completed • Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts • A power failure occurs during use • Maintaining the machine • Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

For repair or adjustment TCHES In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com INDEX APPENDIX

8 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX

Turning the Machine On/Off Machine the Turning ...... 10 Screens...... 12 the LCD Understanding Settings Machine the Changing ...... 14 Bobbin...... 18 the Winding/Installing ThreadingUpper ...... 24 Needle the Replacing ...... 33 Foot Presser the Replacing ...... 37 Pieces...... 42 Large or Cylindrical Sewing Thedescribed preparations various sew chapter.inare this to required starting before 1 GETTING READY GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Turning the Machine On/Off OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING GETTING READY ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine. ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms

CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result. ● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, TCHES take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

10 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 11 Turning the Machine On/Off Note When the sewing machine is turned off, all all off, turned is machine sewing the When cancelled. are settings stitch sewing the while occurs outage a power If machine is being operated, turn off the power the and unplug machine sewing the sewing restarting When cord. supply to procedure necessary the follow machine, machine. the operate correctly only) U.S.A. (For plug (one has a polarized appliance This the reduce To other). the than wider blade risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended If way. one only outlet polarized a in fit to the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. Ifit still does notfit, contact proper the install to electrician qualified a The sewing lamp goes off when the machine machine the when off goes lamp sewing The is turned off. outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way. any in plug the modify Do not outlet. Unplug the power supply cord from the the from cord supply power the Unplug electrical outlet. power the unplugging when plug the Grasp cord. supply power the from cord supply the power Unplug jack. supply z z z Makesure thatthe machine isnot sewing. on switch power main the of side left the Press the right side of the machine (set it to " "). X Turning off the machine the off Turning c d When you are finished using the sewing machine, machine, sewing the using finished you are When sewing the transporting before addition, In off. it turn machineto another location, be sureturn to it off. a b 1 Power supply jack The sewing lamp and the LCD come on come LCD the and lamp sewing The when themachine isturned on.

X a switch power main the of side right the Press "|"). to it (set machine the of side right the on Insert theplug of the powersupply cord into a outlet. electrical household Make sure that the sewing machine is turned is turned machine sewing the that sure Make to " set is switch power main off (the the into cord supply power the and plug "), then of the side on right jack the supply power machine.

Turning on the machine the on Turning b a c — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Understanding the LCD Screens OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.

1 3 GETTING READY

2 4 5 6 a Presser foot that should be used b Single or twin needle c Selected stitch d Stitch length (mm) e Stitch width (mm) f Upper thread tension

Memo z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to "Error messages" (page 146). TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

12 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 13 Understanding the LCD Screens LCD the Understanding Note The initial stitch screen appears again. appears screen stitch initial The For details on each topic, refer to the Operation this page in corresponding Manual. When you are finished with the help screen, screen, help the with finished are you When press key). (OK X z f 4 2 3 1 Replacing the presser foot presser the Replacing Threading the upper thread Winding the bobbin bobbin the Installing The first screen describing the procedure for for procedure the describing screen first The appears. topic selected the The LCD comes on. LCD comes The appears. screen help machine sewing The

Example: Upper threading Upper Example: Press Press key). (OK X press screen, next the To display . To return press screen, previous to the . a b c d Press Press selected. is topic desired , illustrating image , and the until keys) (Arrow X Press panel. operation in the key) help machine (Sewing X Turn on the sewing machine. sewing on the Turn

† Checking machine operating operating machine Checking procedures e c b a Simple descriptions on replacing the presser foot, foot, presser the replacing on descriptions Simple and bobbin the winding thread, the upper threading LCD. in the can be displayed bobbin the installing d — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Changing the Machine Settings OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.

Changing the settings

The general procedure for changing machine settings is described below. GETTING READY Turn on the sewing machine. a

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. b X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the c stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set is selected. TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Press (OK key). d X A screen containing settings for the selected attribute appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the e desired setting is selected. X The setting is changed.

Press (OK key). f X The initial stitch screen appears again.

14 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 15 page 60 page 16 page 98 page 17 page page 117 page 148 page Reference Changing theMachine Settings Details Specifies automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching. reverse/reinforcement automatic Specifies 57 page thread-cutting. automatic Specifies axis.a vertical along patterns images Mirror 58 page 122 page once or be sewn will pattern the whether Specifies repeatedly. Specifies thesewing density of the stitching. widths pattern and tensions thread adjusted Allows and lengthsbe tosaved. the when positioned is needle the where Specifies page 120 stopped. is machine sewing twin needle. the Specifies sewing the with adjusted be to width stitch the Allows controller. speed be to screens the in used language the Allows changed. each with sounded is a beep not or whether Specifies operation. 28 page the pattern.of position up and down the Adjusts pattern. of the position right and left page 124 the Adjusts page 124 Icon

Attribute

Repeated/ single sewing Automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching Left/right mirror imaging sizePattern small.or large be to patterns of size the Sets 119 page pattern Vertical adjustment Thread tensionThread Automatic thread. upper of the tension the Adjusts thread-cutting pattern Check 53 page Pattern length checked. be to patterns combined Allows 118 page Adjuststhelength satin of stitches.Stitching density settings Save Needle position page 120 Twin needle sewing Stitch width control Language Buzzer brightnessLCD Horizontal pattern LCD. of the brightness the Adjusts adjustment 16 page List of stitch or machine attributes machine or stitch of List the to refer attribute, each on details For below. listed are set be can that attributes machine or stitch The page. reference corresponding ■ — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Changing the needle stop Adjusting the brightness of

position the LCD UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted. leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead Press (Settings key) in the operation panel, leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped. a and then press , , and (Arrow keys) until is selected. Press (Settings key) in the operation panel, a and then press , , and (Arrow keys) GETTING READY until is selected.

Press (OK key). b X The screen for changing the brightness of the LCD appears. Press (OK key). b X The screen for changing the needle stop position appears.

To make the LCD brighter, press (–). To c make the LCD darker, press (+).

Press to select . c To return to , press .

X The brightness of the LCD is changed.

Press (OK key). TCHES X The machine is now set to stop with the d X The initial stitch screen appears again. needle in the raised position.

Press (OK key). d X The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX APPENDIX

16 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 17 Changing theMachine Settings The initial stitch screen appears again. appears screen stitch initial The The language of the screens is changed. is screens the of language The The screen for changing the language of the the of the language changing for screen The screens appears.

Press Press key). (OK X X Press Press or selected. is language desired the until one of the to can be changed The language Dutch, German, French, English, available: Finnish, Norwegian, Danish, Italian, Spanish, Japanese, Russian, Portuguese, Swedish, or others. Korean Press Press key). (OK X until is selected. is Press panel, operation press key) in the then and (Settings , until , and keys) (Arrow

Changing theChanging screen language d c b a The language used in the screens that are displayed displayed are that screens in the used The language available. many the of one to changed be can — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Winding/Installing the Bobbin OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

CAUTION GETTING READY ● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine. ● The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)).

Actual size

11.5 mm (7/16 inch)

This model Older model

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

1 TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

a Bobbin winder

Memo z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

18 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 19 2 1 3 2 Winding/Installing the Bobbin 3 1 Spool Gap Spool cap (small) Spool cap (large) Spool cap (medium) Spool install the small spool cap with some space space some with cap spool small the install spool. the and cap the between threadunrolls correctly, the thread may pin. the spool around tangled become a with cap spool the Use and small). medium diameter that is slightly larger than the The medium-sized spool. of the diameter pin when spool on the already cap is spool purchased. is machine sewing the a b c a b c • thread, of cross-wound a spool using When Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto onto bobbin the for thread of spool the Place pin. spool the is spool the so that pin onto the spool the Slide the from unrolls and the thread horizontal the spool. of front bottom • the so that positioned is not the spool If pin. the spool cap onto the spool Slide cap spool of the side rounded the With positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap the until as possible far pin as spool the onto of end right the touches spool the of side right pin. spool the • (large, available are cap sizes spool Three f g 1 2 1 2 Spool pin Spool cap Spool Notch Bobbinwinder shaft spring

a b Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the the onto inserted is that cap spool the Remove pin. spool a b right. to the shaft winder bobbin the Slide Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so shaft winder bobbin the on bobbin the Place notch the into fits shaft the on spring the that bobbin. in the Lift open the upper cover. upper the open Lift Turn on the sewing machine. sewing on the Turn

e c b a d — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the CAUTION j hook on the thread guide for bobbin winding, and then wind it counterclockwise between ● If the spool or the spool cap is not the discs. UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break. 1 ● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too GETTING READY small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break. 1

While holding the spool with your right hand, h pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover a Thread guide for bobbin winding to the front. While using your left hand to hold the end of k the thread that wraps around the thread guide 1 for bobbin winding, use your right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin four or five times. TCHES

a Thread guide cover Pull the thread to the right and pass it through Pass the thread under the thread guide plate l the slit in the bobbin winder seat. i from the right. INDEX APPENDIX

1 a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter) X The thread is cut to a suitable length. 1 a Thread guide plate

20 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 21 Winding/Installing the Bobbin Memo When the sewing machine is started or the the winding after is turned wheel balance will machine the bobbin, the around thread make clicking a sound; thisis not a malfunction. CAUTION Slide the sewing speed controller back to its its back to controller speed the sewing Slide position. original z Slide the bobbin winder shaft to left. to the shaft winder the bobbin Slide the shaft. from bobbin the Remove Use a bobbinthatUse thread has a been correctly wound, otherwise the needle be will tension thread the or break may incorrect. ● s q r 1 thread using the the using thread 1 Start/stop button Start/stop Sewing speed controller speed Sewing The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is is thread and the spinning starts bobbin The the bobbin. around wound full. is it when spinning stops bobbin The stops. machine sewing The

CAUTION Use to cut the end of the thread thread the of end to cut the scissors Use the bobbin. around wound a X X Press once. button) (Start/stop X a Press once. button) (Start/stop Slide the sewing speed controller to the right right to the controller speed sewing the Slide fast). be will speed the that (so cutter built into the slit in the bobbin inslit the cutter into built may the become seat, winder thread tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread to run out. starts Be sure to cut the thread as described on the previous page. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the

● p o m n — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Remove the bobbin cover. Installing the bobbin b Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold

c UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Install the bobbin wound with thread. the end of the thread with your left.

CAUTION ● Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be

incorrect. GETTING READY • Be careful not to drop the bobbin.

Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the d thread unrolls to the left.

● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539- 151)). • Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.

Actual size Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right 11.5 mm e hand, and then guide the thread as shown with (7/16 inch) your left hand.

This model Older model

Memo TCHES z The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the shuttle is indicated by marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

Pass the thread through the slot as shown, INDEX and APPENDIX f then pull the thread out toward the front. Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right. a 12

1

a Cutter a Bobbin cover b Latch X The cutter cuts the thread. X The bobbin cover opens.

22 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 23 Winding/Installing the Bobbin 2 1 Memo

The lower threading is finished. is threading lower The the up pulling without sewing begin can You up the pull to wish If you thread. bobbin up pull to sew, starting before thread bobbin in procedure to the according thread the "Pulling up the bobbin thread" (page 31). (page thread" bobbin up the "Pulling CAUTION Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with (on the Threading" "Upper in the procedure page). next z X Reattach the bobbin cover. bobbin the Reattach Insert the tab in the lower-leftcorner of the down on press then lightly and cover, bobbin the rightside.

Be sure to hold down the bobbin with yourfingerunroll bobbin thread and the may the break thread otherwise correctly, incorrect. be will tension thread the or ● g — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Upper Threading OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described. GETTING READY

CAUTION Threading the upper thread ● When threading the upper thread, Turn on the sewing machine. carefully follow the instructions. If the a TCHES upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Memo z The order that the machine should be Raise the presser foot lever. threaded is indicated by a solid line on the b sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

1

a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is raised. • If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly.

24 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 25 2 Upper Threading 1 3 2 3 1 Spool Gap Spool cap (small) Spool cap (large) Spool cap (medium) Spool install the small spool cap with some space space some with cap spool small the install spool. the and cap the between threadunrolls correctly, the thread may pin. the spool around tangled become a with cap spool the Use and small). medium diameter that is slightly larger than the The medium-sized spool. of the diameter pin when spool on the already cap is spool purchased. is machine sewing the a b c a b c • thread, of cross-wound a spool using When Place the spool for the upper thread onto the the onto thread upper the for spool the Place pin. spool is spool the so that pin onto the spool the Slide the from unrolls and the thread horizontal the spool. of front bottom • the so that positioned is not the spool If pin. the spool cap onto the spool Slide cap spool of the side rounded the With positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap the until as possible far pin as spool the onto of end right the touches spool the of side right pin. spool the • (large, available are cap sizes spool Three f g 1 1 1 2 Spool pin Spool cap Spool Mark on balance wheel balance on Mark Needle position button sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check Check be threaded. cannot machine sewing facing is wheel balance the on mark the that the If below. illustration in the as up shown sure be position, this in not is wheel balance to press the needle position button to raise threader. needle the using before needle the

a b Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the the onto inserted is that cap spool the Remove pin. spool a cover. upper the open Lift a • If the needle is not correctly raised, the Press Press needle. the to raise twice or once button) position (Needle

e c d — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

While using your right hand to hold the thread CAUTION j passed under the thread guide plate taut, pass the thread through the guides in the order (up ● If the spool or the spool cap is not → left → down UTILITY STI → up SEWING BASICS → down) shown. CONTENTS positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or 1 the needle may break. ● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too GETTING READY small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

a Shutter The following diagram shows the shutter position when the presser foot is lowered. Since the shutter is closed when the presser foot is lowered, the machine cannot be threaded. Be While holding the spool with your right hand, sure to raise the presser foot so that the shutter h pull the thread with your left hand, and then is open in order to thread the machine. pass the thread behind the thread guide cover 1 to the front.

1

a Shutter

Pass the thread through the thread hook at the TCHES k base of the needle bar.

a Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate i from the right. INDEX APPENDIX 1

1 a Needle bar thread hook Next, use the needle threader to thread the needle. Continue with the procedure in "Threading the needle" (on the next page).

a Thread guide plate

26 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 27 1 Upper Threading 1 1 5 cm5 (2 inch) Needle threader lever threader Needle Presser foot lever The upper threading is finished. is threading upper The The thread is passed through the eye of the needle. The presser foot is lowered. is foot presser The a X a X lever. threader needle the Release passed thread of on the loop pull Carefully the out pull to needle eye of the the through of the thread. end thread the pass lever, foot presser the Raise out pull and then foot, presser the through rear the toward thread of inch) (2 cm 5 about machine. the of Lower the presser foot lever. foot presser the Lower a X clicks. it until lever threader needle the Lower

c e f g d 5 3 2 1 1 Thread cutter Thread guide discs Pass to the back. Pass through the slit.

a a b c side left on the cutter the with thread Cut the of the machine. With your left hand, hold the end of the thread thread the of end the hold hand, left your With hook, thread bar needle the through passed thread the through thread pass the and then back. to the front the from discs guide

Threading the needle the Threading a The needle threader can be used with needle size size needle with used be can threader needle The the on details more For 100/16. through 75/11 (page uses" their and types to "Needle refer needle, 34). b — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin Using the twin needle sewing. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both Note upper threads should have the same thickness and z If the needle is not raised, the needle quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure spool pin and the spool cap. to press the needle position button to raise For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the the needle before using the needle threader. twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). z If the twin needle is installed, the needle threader cannot be used. For details, refer to GETTING READY "Using the twin needle" (at the right).

CAUTION ● Only use the twin needle (part code: X59296-051). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. ● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Install the twin needle. a • For details on installing a needle, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35).

Thread the upper thread for the left needle TCHES b eye.

• For details, refer to steps a through k of "Threading the upper thread" (page 24).

Manually thread the left needle with the INDEX upper APPENDIX c thread. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

28 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 29 of of j through through h Upper Threading is selected. is The LCD comes on. comes LCD The appears. screen settings The to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). (page foot" presser the to "Replacing twin needle. If the needle threader is used withthe twin needle, thesewing machine be damaged. may "Threading the upper thread" (page 24). (page thread" upper the "Threading CAUTION Press , , and (Arrow keys) until Attach zigzag foot "J". foot zigzag Attach • refer foot, presser the on changing details For machine. sewing on the Turn X Press panel. operation the in key) (Settings X • For details, refer to step needle the through thread the passing Without right the thread manually hook, thread bar needle. the needle eye of the through thread the Pass front. the from • the with used be cannot threader The needle When using the twin needle, to sure be the needle, twin using When the otherwise "J", zigzag foot attach be may machine the or break may needle damaged. ● l i j k h 1 12 1 Thread guide cover Spool cap Spool Spool Bobbin winder shaft winder Bobbin

a Thread the upper thread in the same way that that way in the same thread the upper Thread threaded. was side left the for thread upper the a b Place the upper thread spool for the needle on on needle the for spool thread upper the Place and pin, spool extra onto the side the right cap. spool the with it secure then of top front from the unroll should The thread spool. the Swing down the spool pin so that it is is it so that pin spool the down Swing horizontal. a Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin the bobbin pin onto spool the extra Insert shaft. winder Insert the extra spool pin so that it is shaft. winder bobbin the to perpendicular

f d g e — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (OK key). Start sewing. m q X The screen for selecting the twin needle • For details on starting to sew, refer to

appears. "Starting to sew" UTILITY STI (page SEWING BASICS 48). CONTENTS X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.

Press to select . n

To return to , press . GETTING READY

X The twin needle can now be used. CAUTION Press (OK key). o ● When changing the sewing direction, X The initial stitch screen appears again, and press (Needle position button) to appears in the lower-left corner of the raise the needle from the fabric, and then screen. raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the twin needle setting is not cancelled.

CAUTION ●

When using the twin needle, be sure to TCHES select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Select a stitch. p INDEX APPENDIX • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132).

CAUTION ● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

30 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 31 of "Installing the the "Installing of e Upper Threading 1 through through a Needle position button The bobbin thread is looped around the the around looped is thread bobbin The up. pulled be can and thread upper bobbin" (page 22). (page bobbin" While lightly holding the upper thread with with thread the upper holding lightly While press hand, left your button) twiceraise to theneedle. position (Needle a X pull to upward thread upper the pull Carefully thread. of the bobbin the end out Insert the bobbin into the shuttle. the into bobbin the Insert • to steps Refer slot. the through thread bobbin the Pass Do not cut the thread with the cutter. Pulling up the bobbin thread bobbin the up Pulling c d When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, quilting, free-motion or before gathers making When below. as described thread bobbin the up pull first a b 2 4 3 1

Spool net Spool Spool cap Spool pin Spool

a b c d Using thread that winds off off winds that thread Using quickly When using thread that winds off quickly, such as as such quickly, off winds that thread using When the place thread, metallic or thread nylon transparent the placing before the spool over net spool enclosed pin. spool the onto thread of spool If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool. — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of the bobbin e thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS GETTING READY

Reattach the bobbin cover. f Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

2

1 TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

32 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 33 Replacing the the Needle Replacing tion on sewing machine needles. machine tion on sewing

CAUTION Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may or may needle bend the needle Use other of any needles. machine sewing Only use home machine. the damage injuries. in resulting possibly break, easily can needles Bent needles. bent use Never

● ● Needle precautions Needle Replacing the Needle Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these these to observe Failure needle. of the handling the concerning precautions following the to observe Be sure to Be sure dispersed. are fragments and breaks the needle if example, for dangerous, extremely is precautions below. instructions the follow carefully and read This section provides informa provides section This — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread UTILITY STI thickness. SEWING BASICS Refer to the CONTENTS following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Thread Fabric Type/Application Size of Needle Type Size

Broadcloth Cotton thread

60–80 GETTING READY Medium Taffeta Synthetic thread weight 75/11–90/14 fabrics Flannel, Silk thread 50–80 Gabardine

Lawn Cotton thread 60–80 Thin fabrics Georgette Synthetic thread 65/9–75/11

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50–80

Denim Cotton thread 30–50 Thick Corduroy Synthetic thread 90/14–100/16 fabrics 50 Tweed Silk thread

Jersey Ball point needle Stretch Thread for knits 50–60 (golden colored) fabrics Tricot 75/11–90/14

Cotton thread

Easily frayed fabrics Synthetic thread 50–80 65/9–90/14

Silk thread TCHES

Synthetic thread For top-stitching 30 90/14–100/16 Silk thread PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Memo CAUTION z The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread, and the larger the needle ● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle number, the thicker the needle. combinations are shown in the table z Use the ball point needle when sewing on above. If the combination of the fabric, stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped thread and needle is not correct, stitches easily occur. particularly when sewing thick fabrics z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with (such as denim) with thin needles (such as transparent nylon threads, regardless of the 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or fabric being sewn. break. In addition, the stitching may be z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

34 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 35 1 1 Replacing the the Needle Replacing Presser foot lever Needle position button CAUTION a a machine. sewing the off Turn lever. foot presser the Lower Press Press needle. the raise to twice or once button) position (Needle Before replacingthebe needle, sure to otherwise machine, the off sewing turn button may the occur if start/stop injuries and the pressed machine accidentally is starts sewing. ● Replacing the needle the Replacing c Replace the needle as described below. Use the the Use below. described as needle the Replace to determined been has that needle a and screwdriver bestraight accordingto the instructionsin "Checking needle". the a b 1 1 1 2

Flat surface Flat Flat surface Flat Flat side Flat Needle type marking

Incorrect needle Incorrect flat the and needle the between the distance If not use Do bent. is needle the even, not is surface needle. a bent Correct needle Correct a a a b Checking the needle the Checking ■ ■ Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous dangerous extremely is needle a bent with Sewing is machine the while break may needle the since operated. being Before using the needle, place the flat side of the distance the that check and surface flat a on needle even. is surface the flat and needle the between — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp CAUTION screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. ● Be sure to insert UTILITY STI the SEWING BASICS needle until it CONTENTS 1 touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result. 2

a Screwdriver GETTING READY b Needle clamp screw • Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

With the flat side of the needle toward the rear e of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

While holding the needle with your left hand, TCHES f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Install the twin needle in the same way.

36 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 37 1 1 Replacing Presser the Foot Presser foot lever Needle position button The presser foot is is raised. foot presser The The needle is raised. is needle The CAUTION a X a X machine. sewing the off Turn lever. foot presser the Raise Press Press needle. the raise to twice or once button) position (Needle Before replacingthe presser be foot, sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise button may the occur if start/stop injuries and the pressed machine accidentally is starts sewing. ● Replacing the presser foot presser the Replacing b c Replace the presser foot as described below. described as foot presser the Replace For details on using the side cutter "S", refer to cutter" side the using stitches overcasting "Sewing 70). (page a

CAUTION Usethe presser foot appropriate forthe stitchto sew,type you that wish of may hit the presser the needle otherwise break. or bend to needle the causing foot, specifically designed feet presser use Only other any Use of machine. sewing this for presser footmay result in injuries or machine. the to damage

● ● Presser foot precautions foot Presser Replacing the Presser Foot Be sure to observe the following precautions precautions following the to observe Be sure feet. presser the concerning The presser foot presses down on the fabric. foot presses The presser — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press the black button at the back of the Raise the presser foot lever to check that the d presser foot holder. g presser foot is securely attached.

1 UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Note z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser 2 foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again. GETTING READY a Black button b Presser foot holder Buttonhole foot "A" X The presser foot holder releases the presser foot. Overcasting foot "G"

Place a different presser foot below the holder Zigzag foot "J" e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder. Button fitting foot "M" Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is Monogramming foot "N" positioned to be read. Blind stitch foot "R" 1 Side cutter "S"

z For details on the presser foot that should be used with the selected stitch, refer to "Stitch 2 3 Settings" (page 132).

a Presser foot holder TCHES b Notch c Pin

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the f presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the

presser foot holder. INDEX APPENDIX

1 a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is attached.

38 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 39 Replacing Presser the Foot 1 1 Screwdriver Screwdriver foot" (page 37). (page foot" a a lower- the with holder foot presser the Align bar. of the presser side left with your in place foot holder the presser Hold using screw the tighten then and hand, right hand. left in your screwdriver the Remove the presser foot. presser the Remove • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot presser the loosen to screwdriver the Use screw. holder Attaching the presser foot holder foot presser the Attaching Removing the presser foot foot holder presser the Removing Removing the presser foot foot presser the Removing holder ■ a b Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the the cleaning when holder foot presser the Remove that foot presser a installing when or machine sewing the as such holder, foot the presser not use does the to remove the screwdriver Use foot. quilting holder. foot presser ■ a b 1 Weak 3 Strong Presser foot lever foot Presser

When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to to dial the reset sewing, finished are you When 3 (standard). a the of back at the foot dial presser the Turn machine. sewing 1 from range the indicates dial the on scale The (weak)to (strong). 4 Turn thedial the to right Turn pressure. the to decrease number) (smaller the dial tothe left (larger number) to increase pressure. the Lower the presser foot foot lever. presser the Lower

Adjusting the pressure of the the of pressure the Adjusting foot presser c a The amount of pressure that the presser foot applies applies foot presser the that pressure of amount The adjusted. be can fabric the to b — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note Using the walking foot z If the presser foot holder is not correctly OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS installed, the thread tension will be With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed incorrect. evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot. GETTING READY

■ Attaching the walking foot

Remove the presser foot holder. a • For details, refer to "Removing the presser foot holder" (on the previous page).

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot b onto the needle clamp screw.

1

2

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw TCHES

Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser c foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

1

a Presser foot holder screw

40 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 41 Replacing Presser the Foot Memo Only the (with reinforcement be used can stitch zigzag the and stitching) the on details For foot. walking the with stitches, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). (page Settings" "Stitch to refer stitches, foot holder" (page 39). (page holder" foot z With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot foot presser the loosen a screwdriver, With walking the remove then and screw, holder foot. holder. foot presser the Attach • For details, refer to "Removing the presser d e 1 1 Note Presser foot lever foot Presser Needle position button The presser foot is raised. The needle is raised. Whensewing withthe walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium. and slow between speed

CAUTION a X Raise the presser foot lever. foot presser the Raise Turn off the sewing machine. sewing the off Turn a X z Press needle. the to raise twice or once button) position (Needle Be sure to securely tighten the screw with needle the otherwise screwdriver, the may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break. Beforestartingsew, to slowly turn the that check you toward and wheel balance thetouch needlethe does presser not thethe presser needlefoot. hits foot, If break. or bend may needle the

Removing the walking foot walking the Removing ● ● ■ c b a — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.

Stitching cylindrical pieces Sewing large pieces of fabric

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. fabric easier. GETTING READY Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. a

Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide a table. Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.

X With the flat bed attachment removed, free- arm sewing is possible.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the b arm, and then sew from the top. Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. b TCHES

When you are finished with free-arm sewing, X With the flat bed attachment removed, free- c install the flat bed attachment back in its arm sewing is possible. original position. INDEX APPENDIX Install the wide table. c Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into place.

Note z The optional wide table is available through your brother retailer.

42 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 43 Sewing Cylindrical or Large orPieces Large Cylindrical Sewing The knee lifter can be stored attached to the attached be can stored lifter knee The table. wide the of bottom z Memo With the legs folded up, the wide table can can table wide the up, folded legs the With case. hard the to attached stored be

CAUTION z Install the flat bed attachment back in its its back in bed attachment flat the Install position. original When youare finished usingthe widetable, it. remove While slightly lifting up thewide table, pull it left. the to off Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to of the legs bottom at the screw the Turn height. their adjust Do not move the sewing machine while Do not while machine move the sewing otherwise attached, the is table wide occur. may injuries or damage

● f e d — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — —— — — — — — —— — — — — — — — — — — OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS GETTING READY TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

44 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX

Sewing...... 46 Tension...... 53 Thread the Adjusting Length...... 55 and Width Stitch the Adjusting Functions...... 57 Useful Tips Sewing Useful ...... 62 The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. this in described are sewing for preparations necessary The 2 SEWING BASICS SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise

injuries may occur. GETTING READY ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. ● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries. ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

1 Turn on the machine. Turn on the sewing machine.For details on turning on the machine, refer to "Turning on the machine" (page 11). ↓

2 Select the stitch Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). ↓

3 Attach the presser foot. Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). ↓ TCHES Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of 4 Position the fabric the fabric are aligned correctly.For details on positioning the fabric, refer to "Positioning the fabric" (page 47). ↓ PEDXINDEX APPENDIX 5 Start sewing Start sewing.For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). ↓

Cut the thread at the end of sewing. The thread may also be cut 6 Cut the thread automatically.For details on cutting the thread, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51).

46 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Positioning the fabric OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine. a

Lower the presser foot lever. e GETTING READY

The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.

Press (Needle position button) once or b twice to raise the needle. 1 a Presser foot lever X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

1

a Needle position button

Place the fabric under the presser foot. c • If the seam allowance is positioned on the

right side, sewing in a straight line is easier TCHES and the extra fabric does not get in the way. Memo While holding the end of the thread and the z To adjust the pressure that the presser foot d fabric with your left hand, turn the balance applies to the fabric, refer to "Adjusting the wheel toward you with your right hand to pressure of the presser foot" (page 39).

lower the needle to the starting point of the INDEX APPENDIX stitching.

Sewing 47 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (Start/stop button) once. Starting to sew b OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the operation buttons or the foot controller.

1 Note

Important: GETTING READY z When the foot controller is plugged in, the a Start/stop button start/stop button cannot be used to start or X The machine starts sewing. stop sewing.

■ Using the operation buttons Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (Start/stop button).

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or a right to select the desired sewing speed. • If you continue to hold the start/stop button Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to pressed immediately after the sewing starts, sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed the machine will sew at a slow speed. controller to the right to sew at a faster speed. When the end of the stitching is reached, press c (Start/stop button) once. X The machine stops sewing with the needle down (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the 1 d needle, and then cut the threads.

X For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page TCHES a Sewing speed controller 51). ■ Using the foot controller Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Turn off the sewing machine. a When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

48 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly b the side of the sewing machine. e press down on the foot controller. Pressing down on the foot controller increases 1 the sewing speed; UTILITY STI releasing SEWING BASICS the pressure on the CONTENTS foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

Slower

Faster GETTING READY a Foot controller jack • Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too Note quickly. (For U.S.A. only) X The machine starts sewing. z Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine When the end of the stitching is reached, model NX-600. f completely release the foot controller. X The machine stops sewing with the needle lowered (in the fabric). Turn on the sewing machine. c When you are finished sewing, raise the g needle, and then cut the threads. • For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51).

Memo Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or z When the foot controller is plugged in, the d right to select the desired sewing speed. start/stop button cannot be used to start or Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to stop sewing. sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed

z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains TCHES controller to the right to sew at a faster speed. lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the

needle stop position" (page 16). INDEX APPENDIX

1 CAUTION a Sewing speed controller ● Do not allow thread or dust to • The speed set using the sewing speed accumulate in the foot controller, controller is the foot controller’s maximum otherwise a fire or an electric shock may sewing speed. occur. ● Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur. ● If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

Sewing 49 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press Securing the stitching c (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at held down until you reach the beginning of the the end of an opening or where seams do not stitching. overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement 1 stitching to secure the end of the thread.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the a beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever. GETTING READY

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is held pressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

Press (Start/stop button) or press down on After sewing back to the beginning of the b the foot controller. d stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement At this time, if the start/stop button is held stitch button. pressed, the machine sews at a low speed. X The machine stops sewing.

Press (Start/stop button), or press down e on the foot controller. X The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction

1 TCHES

a Start/stop button • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48).

X The machine starts sewing. When the end of the stitching is reached, INDEX press APPENDIX f (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn. X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is depressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

50 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, g release (Reverse/reinforcement stitch Cutting the thread button). OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS X The machine stops sewing. When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The threads can be cut in either of two ways. Press (Start/stop button), or press down ■ Using the thread cutter button h on the foot controller. At this time, if the start/stop button is held When you wish to finish the stitching, press pressed, the machine sews at a low speed. a (Thread cutter button) once. X The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction. GETTING READY

After sewing to the end of the stitching, the i sewing machine stops. Release the start/stop button or foot controller. 1 1

3 1 a Thread cutter button 2 X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever. b

5 4 6 2 a Beginning of stitching 1 b End of stitching ■ Sewing reinforcement stitches

a Presser foot lever TCHES When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (Reverse/reinforcement CAUTION stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 ● Do not press the thread cutter button stitches on top of each other. after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the INDEX APPENDIX threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

1 2 Note z Do not press the thread cutter button if there a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur. Memo z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132).

Sewing 51 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Using the manual thread cutter Memo When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon z The machine can be set so that the threads or metallic threads, or other special threads, use OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS will be cut when sewing is finished. For the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut details on setting the machine so that the the threads. threads are cut automatically, refer to "Automatically cutting the thread" (page 58). When you wish to finish the stitching and the a sewing machine is stopped, press (Needle position button) once to raise the needle. GETTING READY

1

a Needle position button X The needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever. b

1

a Presser foot lever

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, TCHES c and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. 1 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

a Thread cutter

52 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the Thread Tension OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal. ■ Upper thread is too loose Thread tension If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose. If the thread and needle combination is correct for

the type of fabric being sewn (according to "Needle 5 GETTING READY types and their uses" on page 34), the thread tension will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate 1 setting. However, if the preset thread tension does not give the desired result or if you are sewing with special thread or on special fabric, adjust the tension 2 of the upper thread to increase or decrease it. ■ Correct thread tension 3 The upper thread and the bobbin thread should 4 cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper a Wrong side of fabric thread should be visible from the right side of the b Right side of fabric c fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be Upper thread d Bobbin thread visible from the wrong side of the fabric. e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric. 1

2

3 4

a Wrong side of fabric TCHES b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread ■ Upper thread is too tight If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side

of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight. INDEX APPENDIX

1

2

3 5 4 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric.

Adjusting the Thread Tension 53 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

To decrease the thread tension, press (-). To Changing the tension of the e increase the thread tension, press (+).

upper thread UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

The tension of the upper thread can be changed using the operation panel LCD and keys. X The tension of the upper thread is changed. Turn on the sewing machine. a • If the setting is changed, the highlighting on the setting is erased.

• Now you can begin sewing. Sew trial stitches GETTING READY to check the thread tension, and then change the setting if necessary.

Press (OK key). X f The LCD comes on. X The initial stitch screen appears again. Select a stitch. b X A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears.

Memo z To reset the thread tension to its standard setting, select the highlighted setting. • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to z The thread tension can be adjusted using a "Selecting stitching" (page 66). more simple procedure. For details, refer to • Immediately after the stitch is selected, the "Easily adjusting the thread tension" (page standard settings (highlighted) appear. 147). z The settings can be saved so that they will Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. always be specified each time the utility c stitch is selected. For details, refer to "Saving TCHES X The settings screen appears. stitch settings" (page 60).

Check that is selected, and then press d (OK key). PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

X The screen for changing the thread tension appears.

54 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132).

Adjusting the stitch width Memo z To reset the stitch width to its standard setting, select the same stitch again or

The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys. GETTING READY change the setting to the highlighted value. Turn on the sewing machine. z If the straight stitch (left needle position or a triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left. z The settings can be saved so that they will always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to "Saving X The LCD comes on. stitch settings" (page 60). z The sewing machine can be set so that the Select a stitch. b stitch width can easily be changed with the X A screen containing settings for the selected sewing speed controller. For details, refer to stitch appears. "Satin stitching" (page 98).

CAUTION ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to turn the balance wheel toward you and "Selecting stitching" (page 66). check that the needle does not touch the TCHES • Immediately after the stitch is selected, the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser standard settings (highlighted) appear. foot, the needle may bend or break.

To make the stitch width narrower, press c (–). To make the stitch width wider, press

(+). INDEX APPENDIX

X The stitch width is changed.

– +

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 55 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Adjusting the stitch length Memo z To reset the stitch length to its standard OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow keys. setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value. Turn on the sewing machine. z The settings can be saved so that they will a always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to "Saving stitch settings" (page 60). GETTING READY CAUTION X The LCD comes on. ● If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to Select a stitch. sew with the stitches bunched together b X A screen containing settings for the selected may result in the needle bending or stitch appears. breaking.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

To make the stitch length shorter, press (–). c To make the stitch length longer, press (+). TCHES

X The stitch length is changed. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX – +

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

56 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Useful Functions OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. Press to select . Automatically sewing reverse/ f To return to , press . reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and GETTING READY end of the stitching.Whether reverse stitches or X The machine is now set to automatically sew reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch reverse/reinforcement stitches. that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). Press (OK key). g X The initial stitch screen appears again, and Turn on the sewing machine. a appears in the lower-left corner of the screen.

X The LCD comes on. • When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching Select a stitch. setting is cancelled. b Position the fabric under the presser foot, and h then press (Start/stop button) once.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to TCHES "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. c X The settings screen appears. 1 Press , , and (Arrow keys) until INDEX APPENDIX d is selected. a Start/stop button X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the machine starts sewing.

After reaching the end of the stitching, press i Press (OK key). (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) e once. X The screen for specifying automatic reverse/ This step is not necessary if a stitch such as reinforcement stitching appears. those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

Useful Functions 57 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1 Automatically cutting the

thread UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called "programmed thread-cutting". If programmed thread- cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing buttonholes or bar tacks is selected. a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button GETTING READY Turn on the sewing machine. X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are a sewn, the sewing machine stops.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch. b

Memo • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to z Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be "Selecting stitching" (page 66). sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. c reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the X The settings screen appears. end of the stitching. TCHES Press , , and (Arrow keys) until d is selected. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Press (OK key). e X The screen for specifying automatic thread- cutting appears.

58 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press to select . After reaching the end of the stitching, press f To return to , press . i (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once. This step is not UTILITYnecessary STI SEWING BASICS if a stitch such as CONTENTS those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn. X The machine is now set for programmed thread-cutting. 1

Press (OK key). g X The initial stitch screen appears again, and GETTING READY appears in the lower-left corner of the screen.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are programmed thread-cutting setting is sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts the cancelled. thread

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and h then press (Start/stop button) once.

The thread is cut here. 1 TCHES

a Start/stop button Memo X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are z Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn, the machine starts sewing. sewn and the thread will not automatically be cut if the start/stop button is pressed at the

end of the stitching. Be sure to press INDEX the APPENDIX reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching.

Useful Functions 59 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

• To clear the saved settings and return the Saving stitch settings thread tension and stitch width and length to their default settings, press so that is OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Adjusted thread tension and stitch width and length selected , and then press (OK key). settings can be saved so that they will be specified each time the stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved for each utility stitch.

Select the stitch, and then adjust the thread a tension and stitch width and length. To adjust the stitch width, press (–) and GETTING READY (+). To adjust the stitch length, press (–) and (+).

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • For details on changing the thread tension, refer to "Changing the tension of the upper thread" (page 54). X The thread tension and stitch width and length are changed.

Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. b X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until c is selected. TCHES

Press (OK key). d X The screen for saving the settings appears. INDEX APPENDIX

Check that the is selected, and then press e (OK key).

X The settings for the stitch width and length are saved. • The next time that the stitch is selected, the saved settings are the first ones that are displayed.

60 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Using the knee lifter Hands-free raising and lifting Stop the sewing machine. of the presser foot a UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS • Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the machine is operating. presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric. With your knee, press the knee lifter to the b right. Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right. GETTING READY ■ Installing the knee lifter

Turn off the sewing machine. a

X The presser foot is raised. Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front b of the sewing machine in the lower-right Release the knee lifter. c corner. X The presser foot is lowered. Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible. CAUTION ● While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed while the sewing machine is operating, the needle may break or the machine may

be damaged. TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Note z If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into its jack, it may fall out while the sewing machine is operating.

Useful Functions 61 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Useful Sewing Tips OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing Sewing curves

After you have set up the machine with the thread Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing

and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being direction to sew around the curve. For details on GETTING READY sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that "Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 64). is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag that will be used with your project. stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. Changing the sewing direction

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the a sewing machine. Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (Needle position button) to

lower the needle. TCHES

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the b fabric. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Lower the presser foot lever and continue c sewing.

62 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Release the button. The foot will lock in place Sewing thick fabrics c level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the GETTING READY foot will return to its normal position.

CAUTION ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed ■ with too much force, the needle may If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does bend or break. not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level. Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become 1 misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper. a Sewing direction

When you encounter a seam that is too thick a to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever. 1 TCHES Press the black button on the left side of the b foot. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot. a Stabilizer material or paper PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

1

a Basting

Useful Sewing Tips 63 SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking Sewing leathers or vinyl The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn fabrics UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the a marking in the needle plate. The distance presser foot to the non stick foot. between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

5 GETTING READY

1 4 1 3

2 a Leather

Sewing an even seam 6 allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the a Seam edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge b Presser foot of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate. c Centimeters ■ d Inches Aligning the fabric with the presser foot e Needle plate Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser f 16 mm (5/8 inch) foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

1

2 TCHES

a Seam b Presser foot PEDXINDEX APPENDIX ■ Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot. 1

2 3

a Seam b Stitch guide foot c Markings

64 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX

Selecting Stitching...... 66 Selecting Stitches...... 68 Overcasting Stitching...... 72 Basic Stitching Hem Blind ...... 74 Buttonhole Stitching...... 76 Insertion...... 83 Zipper InsertionZipper/piping ...... 88 Tape...... 90 Elastic and Fabrics Stretch Sewing StitchingQuilt and ...... 92 Patchwork Appliqué, Stitching...... 100 Reinforcement Stitching...... 104 Eyelet StitchingHorizontal ...... 105 Stitching...... 107 Decorative the Sewing Patterns...... 115 Decorative Various Built-In a PatternDesigning ...... 126 The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. this in described are applications their and stitches various The 3 STITCHES UTILITY UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Selecting Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS You can select any of the various types of stitching available.

Stitch types Selecting stitching

A total of 8 groups of stitch types (utility stitches, Using the operation panel keys, select the desired decorative stitches, satin stitches, cross-stitches, stitch from those shown in the LCD. Twelve of the

decorative satin stitches and 3 types of character most often used utility stitches can quickly be GETTING READY stitches) are available. selected with the stitch keys. For details on the types of stitches available, refer to When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight "Stitch Settings" (page 132). stitch (left needle position) is selected.

Determine the stitch that you wish to use. ■ Utility stitches a • Refer to "Stitch types" (at the left). There are 71 utility stitches, including straight stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole Determine which presser foot should be used stitches. b with the selected stitch. The presser feet are stored in the accessory ■ Decorative stitches compartment. There are 31 decorative stitches, including hearts, • For details on the stitches that can be sewn leaves and flowers. with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132).

■ Satin stitches Attach the presser foot. c There are 18 satin stitches. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). ■ Cross-stitches Turn on the sewing machine. There are 10 types of cross-stitches. d TCHES

■ Decorative satin stitches There are 10 decorative satin stitches.

■ Character stitch—Gothic font INDEX APPENDIX X The straight stitch (left needle position) is There are 97 characters, including letters, shown selected in the LCD. symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font. Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation e panel. ■ Character stitch—Script font To select a stitch using the stitch keys, press the There are 97 characters, including letters, key of the desired stitch. symbols and numbers, in the Script font. Continue with step j. X The screen containing the various types of ■ Character stitch—Outline style stitches appears. There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the outline style.

66 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the f type of stitch that you wish to use is selected. Memo z For details on adjusting the stitch width and length, refer UTILITY STI to "Adjusting SEWING BASICS the Stitch Width CONTENTS and Length" (page 55). GETTING READY Press (OK key). g X The screen containing the various stitches in the selected stitch type appears. ■ Understanding the screen

1

2 a Selected stitch type b Number of stitches in the selected stitch type • To select a different stitch type, press (Back key).

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the h stitch that you wish to use is selected. Press to return to the previous screen. Press

to display the next screen. TCHES

Press (OK key). i X The stitch is selected.

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic PEDXINDEX APPENDIX j reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc. • For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to the following pages.

Note z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Selecting Stitching 67 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Overcasting Stitches OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G"

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G". GETTING READY

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Preventing fraying in 11 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 mediumweight and thin (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) fabrics Overcasting 12 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 G stitch Preventing fraying in (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thick fabrics and fabrics 13 that fray easily – 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

Attach overcasting foot "G". Sew with the edge of the fabric against the a d presser foot guide.

G

1

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser

foot" (page 37). TCHES

Select a stitch. b a Needle drop point • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

CAUTION INDEX APPENDIX Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric c against the guide of the presser foot, and then ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly lower the presser foot lever. turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

1 a Guide

68 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J"

Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot "J". UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Zigzag stitch Preventing fraying (center 7 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 (center baseline/reverse

needle (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) GETTING READY stitching) position) Zigzag stitch Preventing fraying (right 8 3.5 2.5–5.0 1.4 0.3–4.0 (right needle – baseline/reinforcement (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) position) stitching) 2-point 9 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 – zigzag stitch Preventing fraying in (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thick fabrics and stretch J 3-point 10 fabrics 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

14 Preventing fraying in 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 – stretch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) Preventing fraying in Overcasting 15 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 – thick fabrics and stretch stitch (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) fabrics 16 Preventing fraying in 4.0 0.0–7.0 4.0 1.0–4.0 – stretch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)

Attach zigzag foot "J". a 1 J TCHES

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Select a stitch. a Needle drop point b • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Memo z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, Sew along the edge of the fabric with the decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For c needle dropping off the edge at the right. details, refer to "Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot" (page 39).

1

a Needle drop point

Overcasting Stitches 69 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter

Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric UTILITY STI is SEWING BASICS cut off. Five stitches can be CONTENTS used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual 63 Sewing straight stitches while 0.0 0.0–2.5 2.5 0.2–5.0

cutting the fabric (0) (0–3/32) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) GETTING READY

64 Sewing zigzag stitches while 3.5 3.5–5.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 cutting the fabric (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (0–3/16) Preventing fraying in thin and Overcasting 65 3.5 3.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 medium weight fabrics while S stitch (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) ( 1/16–3/16) cutting the fabric 66 Preventing fraying in thick 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 fabrics while cutting the fabric (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) ( 1/16–3/16)

67 Preventing fraying in thick 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 fabrics while cutting the fabric (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) ( 1/16–3/16)

Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter d onto the needle clamp screw.

1

Remove the presser foot. 2 a • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser TCHES foot" (page 37). a Connecting fork b Lower the presser foot lever, and then Needle clamp screw b manually thread the needle. Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin

• The needle threader cannot be used. If the e is aligned with the notch in the presser INDEX foot APPENDIX needle threader is used with the side cutter, holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot the sewing machine may be damaged. lever.

Raise the presser foot lever. c

2 1

a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin X The side cutter is attached.

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Raise the presser foot lever to check that the • If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the f side cutter is securely attached. fabric will not be cut.

Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, Lower the presser UTILITY STI foot SEWING BASICS lever, and then start CONTENTS g and then pull it out toward the rear of the k sewing. sewing machine. GETTING READY

X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn. Select a stitch. • If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the h seam allowance will be about 5 mm • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page (3/16 inch). 66).

CAUTION 1 ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser a 5 mm (3/16 inch) foot, the needle may bend or break.

Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in Memo i the fabric at the beginning of the stitching. z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13-oz. denim.

z After using the side cutter, clean it by TCHES 1 removing any lint or dust. z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX a 2 cm (1/16 inch)

Position the fabric in the side cutter. j The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.

1 a Guide plate

Overcasting Stitches 71 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Basic Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual 6 0.0 0.0–7.0 20 5-30 Basting stitch – Temporarily securing (0) (0–1/4) (3/4) (3/16-1-3/16) GETTING READY Basic stitching and Straight stitch 1 sewing gathers or (left needle 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2-5.0 pintucks (left baseline/ (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) position) reverse stitching) Basic stitching and 2 sewing gathers or 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2-5.0 – pintucks (left baseline/ (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) J Straight stitch reinforcement stitching) (center needle Basic stitching and sewing gathers or position) 3 2.5 0.2-5.0 pintucks (center –– (3/32) (1/64–3/16) baseline/reverse stitching) Triple stretch 4 Reinforcing seams and 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 stitch sewing stretch fabrics (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

Basting 1 Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-3/16 inch). TCHES Attach zigzag foot "J". a 5-30 mm (3/16-1-3/16 inch) a

J PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 6 . b • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Start sewing. c • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48).

72 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Changing the needle position Basic stitching The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. position) and the straight stitch (center needle a position). Attach zigzag foot "J". b 1 2

J GETTING READY

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). a Straight stitch (left needle position) b Straight stitch (center needle position) Select a stitch. c When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page needle position) is set to its standard setting 66). (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm Lower the needle into the fabric at the (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between d beginning of the stitching. 0 and 7 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and Start sewing. e sewing with the right side of the presser foot • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam 48). allowance can be sewn with a fixed width. • For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 1 50). 0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

When sewing is finished, cut the thread. f • For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page

51). TCHES

3 4 5 6 2 a Stitch width b Distance from the needle position to the right side

of the presser foot INDEX APPENDIX c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 55).

Basic Stitching 73 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Blind Hem Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual 17 Blind hem stitching on 0.0 2.0 1.0–3.5 3← – 3→ mediumweight fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8) Blind hem GETTING READY R stitch 18 Blind hem stitching on 0.0 2.0 1.0–3.5 3← – 3→ stretch fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser a hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) foot" (page 37). from the edge of the fabric. Select a stitch. 4 d • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). 2 Position the fabric with the edge of the folded e hem against the guide of the presser foot, and 1 3 then lower the presser foot lever.

a Wrong side of fabric R b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm (3/16 inch) TCHES Fold back the fabric along the basting, and b then position the fabric with the wrong side 1 3 facing up. 2 a Wrong side of fabric 2 b Fold of hem PEDXINDEX APPENDIX c Guide

Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly f catches the fold of the hem. 1

R a Wrong side of fabric b Basting 1 Attach blind hem foot "R". c a Needle drop point R

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Sew with the fold of the hem against the 1 g presser foot guide. – + Remove the basting UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS stitching. CONTENTS h

1 2

a Stitch width GETTING READY ■ If the needle catches too much of the hem a fold Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric The needle is too far to the left. Press (of the arrow keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly Memo catches the fold of the hem. z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to "Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot" (page 39).

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press (of the arrow keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly TCHES catches the fold of the hem.

1 2 INDEX APPENDIX

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric • For details on changing the stitch width, refer to "Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length" (page 55).

Blind Hem Stitching 75 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Buttonhole Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and one-step buttonholes.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Horizontal buttonholes

42 GETTING READY – on thin and 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) mediumweight fabrics Horizontal buttonholes 43 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 – on areas that are subject (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) to strain 44 Horizontal buttonholes 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 – on thick fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)

45 Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) stabilized fabrics 46 Buttonholes for stretch 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 0.5–2.0 Buttonhole – or knit fabrics (15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16) A stitch 47 Buttonholes for stretch – 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.5 1.0–3.0 fabrics (15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)

48 – Bound buttonholes 5.0 0.0–6.0 2.0 0.2–4.0 (3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

49 Keyhole buttonholes for 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 – thick or plush fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) Keyhole buttonholes for 50 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 – mediumweight and (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) TCHES thick fabrics 51 Horizontal buttonhole 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 – for thick or plush fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)

Button- 55 – Button sewing 3.5 2.5–4.5 ––M sewing stitch (1/8) (3/32–3/16) PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

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Buttonhole sewing

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS of the button). CONTENTS Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

1 GETTING READY 1

1

1

a Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. a and length of the buttonhole. TCHES

1 1

2 INDEX APPENDIX

5

3 a Marks on fabric

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole 4 b foot "A", and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole. A

a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Buttonhole Stitching 77 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide Position the fabric with the front end of the plate e buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on Add together the diameter and thickness of the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS the button, and then set the button guide lower the presser foot lever. plate to the calculated length. (The distance 1 between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1 A 2 GETTING READY a Mark on fabric b Red marks on buttonhole foot Pass the upper thread down through the hole in 2 the presser foot. 3 • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of size. button) c 5 mm (3/16 inch) Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

1

1 2 a Do not reduce the gap. a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch) Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as TCHES X The size of the buttonhole is set. f possible.

Attach buttonhole foot "A". 1 c • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Select a stitch. d • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. 1

2 a Buttonhole lever b Bracket

78 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in g your left hand, and then start sewing. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

1

a Eyelet punch GETTING READY X Once sewing is completed, the machine • When using the eyelet punch, place thick automatically sews reinforcement stitches, paper or some other protective sheet under then stops. the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric. Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, h and then remove the fabric. CAUTION Raise the buttonhole lever to its original ● When opening the buttonhole with the i position. seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at may result if the seam ripper slips. j the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut. ■ Changing the density of the stitching 1 Adjust the stitch length.

– +

a Pin • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch TCHES Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and length" (page 56). k open the buttonhole. • If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching. ■

Changing the stitch width INDEX APPENDIX Adjust the stitch width.

– + 1

a Seam ripper For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut width" (page 55). open the buttonhole.

Buttonhole Stitching 79 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Use a handsewing needle to pull the Memo g thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch then tie it. length and width by sewing a trial UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the h gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole. ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics Trim off any excess of the gimp thread. When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. GETTING READY Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot "A" shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

Attach buttonhole foot "A".

b TCHES • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 46 or 47 . c Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the d gimp thread. INDEX APPENDIX

Lower the presser foot lever and the e buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp f thread to remove any slack.

80 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Place the button into button-sewing foot "M". Button sewing c OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the a drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine). 1 a Button GETTING READY • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two 1 holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

2 Select stitch 55 . d • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • Leave automatic thread-cutting set to .

Turn the balance wheel toward you to check e that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the the button holes. TCHES machine) b Back side X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach button-sewing foot "M". b INDEX APPENDIX

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Buttonhole Stitching 81 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Attaching a shank to a button CAUTION To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then ● When sewing, be sure that the needle UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button does not touch the button, otherwise the securely. needle may bend or break. Place the button into button-sewing foot "M", Start sewing. a and then pull the shank lever toward you. f X The sewing machine automatically stops after sewing reinforcement stitches. 1 GETTING READY • If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice. • Do not press the thread cutter button.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the a Shank lever g stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread. After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the b with plenty of excess, wind it around the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching. thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching. Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching at the wrong side of the fabric.

When you are finished attaching the button, h slide the drop feed lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

Cut off any excess thread. TCHES 1 c PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

a Back side

82 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Zipper Insertion OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS A zipper can be sewn in place.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Straight stitch Attaching zippers I (center 3 2.5 0.2–5.0

Sewing concealed –– GETTING READY needle (3/32) (1/64–3/16) seams and pintucks position)

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below. Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the Inserting a centered zipper b edge of the fabric.

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted 1 against each other.

2 3

2 4 1 a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric 3 d End of zipper opening a Right side of fabric b Stitching Press open the seam allowance from the c End of zipper opening c wrong side of the fabric. TCHES

Attach zigzag foot "J" and sew straight stitches a up to the zipper opening. 1 With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX • For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page 73). a Wrong side of fabric

Zipper Insertion 83 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Align the seam with the center of the zipper, Topstitch around the zipper. d and then baste the zipper in place. g OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS 1 2 3

1 2

3 4 GETTING READY a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stiching c Zipper

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin e of zipper foot "I".

1

a Stitching I b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching 2 d End of zipper opening

CAUTION a Pin on the right side ● b Needle drop point When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser needle may bend or break. foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 3 . Remove the basting stitching. f h • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). TCHES

CAUTION ● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle PEDXINDEX APPENDIX position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

84 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press open the seam allowance from the Inserting a side zipper c wrong side of the fabric. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this 1 type of zipper for side openings and back openings.

1 2 a Wrong side of fabric GETTING READY

Press the seam allowance so that the right side d (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch). 3 a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening The following procedure will describe how to stitch 1 on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

Attach zigzag foot "J" and sew straight stitches a up to the zipper opening. 2 With the right sides of the fabric facing each a Wrong side of fabric other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the b 3 mm (1/8 inch) zipper opening. Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of • For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page e the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), 73). and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the b edge of the fabric. 2 TCHES 1 1

2 3 a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching 4 INDEX APPENDIX Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin f of zipper foot "I". a Basting stitching If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, b Reverse stitches attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of c Wrong side of fabric the zipper foot. d End of zipper opening 1

I

2

a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point

Zipper Insertion 85 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then foot" (page 37). j baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

Select stitch 3 . UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS g

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

CAUTION 1 ●

When using zipper foot "I", be sure to GETTING READY select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance a wheel toward you to check that the Basting stitching needle does not touch the presser foot. If Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin a different stitch is selected or the needle k of zipper foot "I". hits the presser foot, the needle may bend If the presser foot holder was attached to the

or break. right pin in step f, change it to the left pin.

Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the 1 h extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper. I

2

a Pin on the left side b Needle drop point

Topstitch around the zipper. l Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot. TCHES

CAUTION 3 ● When sewing, be sure that the needle 2 does not touch the zipper, otherwise the 4 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX needle may bend or break. 1 5 When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the i end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing. a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitches d Beginning of stitching e Basting stitching

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When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the m end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever. UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper, n and then continue sewing. GETTING READY TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Zipper Insertion 87 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Zipper/piping Insertion OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual

Straight stitch 1 Attaching zippers (left needle Sewing concealed 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0

(0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) GETTING READY position) seams and piping

There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot. Slide the presser foot over either the left or Inserting a centered zipper e right feed dog.

Refer to step a–d of "Inserting a centered a zipper" (page 83).

Remove the presser foot and presser foot b holder (page 39) to attach the screw-on adjustable zipper/piping foot.

Left sewing position Right sewing position

Change the needle position so that the needle f does not touch the presser foot. For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" TCHES Note (page 55). z Use a screw driver to securely tighten the screw that holds the presser foot. If the screw 1 is loose, the needle may break and cause injures. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX a Needle drop point Select stitch 1 . c CAUTION Loosen the positioning screw on the back of d the presser foot. ● After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check the needle does not touch the presser-foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

1

a Positioning screw

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Securely tighten the positioning screw with a g screwdriver. Inserting a piping OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Place the piping between two fabrics inside a out, as shown below.

1

2 a Positioning screw 3 GETTING READY Topstitch around the zipper. h a Fabric b Piping c 1 Fabric 3 Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable 2 b zipper/piping foot on the previous page.

Sew along the piping. 4 c

After sewing, turn them over. a Stitching d b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching TCHES d End of zipper opening

CAUTION ● When sewing, be sure that the needle

does not touch the zipper, otherwise the INDEX APPENDIX needle may bend or break.

Remove the basting stitching. i

Zipper/piping Insertion 89 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual

5 1.0 1.0–3.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Stretch stitch Stretch fabrics

(1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) GETTING READY

2-point 9 – 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) Attaching elastic J 3-point 10 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

Elastic- 28 Attaching elastic to 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 attaching – stretch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) stitch

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching Elastic attaching

Attach zigzag foot "J". When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary J that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the a fabric. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points TCHES foot" (page 37). to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric. Select stitch 5 . b • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

66). INDEX APPENDIX 1 Sew the fabric without stretching it. c

2

a Elastic tape b Pin

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Attach zigzag foot "J". b

J OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select a stitch. c GETTING READY • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while d stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand. TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

CAUTION ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 91 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual

7 Attaching appliqués (center baseline/reverse 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0

(1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) GETTING READY stitching) Zigzag stitch Appliqué quilting, free- 60 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 – motion quilting, satin (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) stitching

19 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Attaching appliqués (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Appliqué stitch 61 Attaching appliqués and 1.5 0.5–5.0 1.2 1.0–4.0 – binding (1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) Piecing straight stitching 57 (with a seam allowance – 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 0.2–5.0 of 6.5 mm from the right (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) Piecing edge of the presser foot) straight stitch Piecing straight stitching J 58 (with a seam allowance 1.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 0.2–5.0 – of 6.5 mm from the left (1/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) edge of the presser foot) 22 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 – (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

23 – 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Joining stitch Patchwork stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) TCHES 24 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 – (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

Mock hand 59 Straight stitch quilting 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 – quilting stitch that looks hand quilting (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

Quilting 62 7.0 1.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 INDEX APPENDIX – Stippling stippling (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

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• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser Appliqué stitching foot" (page 37). OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam Select a stitch. a e allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 3/16 inch). 66).

Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then 1 f begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside

of the appliqué. GETTING READY

a Seam allowance

Place a pattern made of thick paper on the b back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just • Remove the thick paper after pressing the outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot seam allowance. lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction. Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it c onto the fabric that it will be attached to. TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

1

a Basting stitching

Attach the open toe foot. d

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 93 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Patchwork (crazy quilt) Piecing

stitching UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called "piecing". The fabric pieces should be cut with a Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. a place it over the lower piece. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot. Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the b pattern spans over both pieces. Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the a fabric that you wish to piece together. GETTING READY

Attach zigzag foot "J". b

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 57 or 58 . c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned d with the edge of the fabric. ■ For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 57 . TCHES 1 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) ■ For a seam allowance on the left side Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 58 .

1

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

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Start sewing. Memo e z To change the width of the seam allowance When the end of the stitching is reached, stop (The needle position), adjust the stitch width. f the sewing machine. UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Sew until the mark at the lower edge of the 1/4 inch quilting foot aligns with the lower edge of ■ Using the 1/4 inch quilting foot the fabric. If the 1/4 inch quilting foot is used, seams can be sewn with a seam allowance of 6.4 mm (1/4 1 inch).

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the 2 GETTING READY a fabric that you wish to piece together. 3 Attach the 1/4 inch quilting foot. b a 6.4mm (1/4 inch) b End of stitching c Mark on 1/4 inch quilting foot

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 3 . c Align the mark at the upper edge of the 1/4 d inch quilting foot with the upper edge of the fabric. Align the right edge of the fabric with the right edge of the narrow part of the 1/4 inch quilting foot.

1 TCHES 2

a Mark on 1/4 inch quilting foot

b Beginning of stitching INDEX APPENDIX When sewing with a seam allowance, align the left edge of the narrow part of the 1/4 inch quilting foot with the fabric edge.

1 a Seam (3.2 mm (1/8 inch))

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 95 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Using the quilting guide Quilting Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called "quilting". Quilts can easily be sewn using the walking foot and the quilting guide.

Baste the fabric to be quilted. a Attach the walking foot. Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at GETTING READY b a the rear of the walking foot or presser foot • For details, refer to "Using the walking foot" holder. (page 40). † Walking foot Select a stitch. c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Place one hand on each side of the presser d foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while sewing. † Presser foot holder

Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt b guide aligns with the seam that has already

Note TCHES been sewn. z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

96 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of Free-motion quilting d the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine). OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. 1 GETTING READY

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot a holder. 2 • Refer to "Removing the presser foot holder" (page 39).

Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side b of the presser bar. The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right c hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder a Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of screw using the screwdriver in your left hand. the machine) b Back side 1 X The feed dogs are lowered.

Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a e 2 3 stitch. TCHES • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, and f then move the fabric to follow the pattern. a Pin on quilting foot Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the PEDXINDEX APPENDIX b Presser foot holder screw beginning and end of sewing. c Needle clamp screw 1 CAUTION ● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

a Pattern

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed g lever to (to the left as seen from the front Satin stitching of the machine) to raise the feed dogs. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the 1 stitch width of a . If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller.

Connect the foot controller. a GETTING READY • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). a Back side Attach zigzag foot "J". • Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at b the left. J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Turn on the sewing machine, and then press c (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until d is selected. TCHES

Press (OK key). e X The screen for specifying that the stitch

width can be controlled with the sewing INDEX APPENDIX speed controller appears.

Press to select . f To return to , press .

X The machine is now set so that the stitch width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller.

98 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (OK key). g X The initial stitch screen appears again. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Select stitch 60 . h • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

While sewing, slide the sewing speed i controller to adjust the stitch width. Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to GETTING READY make the width wider.

Narrower Wider

• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller. TCHES

When you are finished sewing, set the stitch j width control setting back to OFF.

Memo INDEX APPENDIX z Although the stitching result differs depending on the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Reinforcement Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Stitch Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Key Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual

Triple stretch 4 Reinforcing the seams of 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 J (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

stitch sleeves and inseams GETTING READY Reinforcing the ends of Bar tack 54 2.0 1.0–3.0 0.4 0.3–1.0 – openings, such as the stitch (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) corners of pockets 52 Darning mediumweight 7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 – A Darning fabrics (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32) stitch 53 7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 – Darning thick fabrics (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32)

Triple stretch stitching Bar tack stitching

Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to and inseams. strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at Attach zigzag foot "J". pocket corners is described below. a

J TCHES • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

4 Determine the desired length of the bar tack. Select stitch . a b Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page "A" to the desired length. (The distance between 66). the markings on the presser foot scale is INDEX 5 mm APPENDIX (3/16 inch).) Start sewing. c 1 • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48).

2 3

a Presser foot scale b Length of bar tack c 5 mm (3/16 inch) • A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1–1/8 inch) can be sewn.

100 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Attach buttonhole foot "A". The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the b bracket on the buttonhole foot. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser

foot" (page 37). 1 UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Select stitch 54 . c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). 2 Position the fabric so that the opening of the a Buttonhole lever d pocket faces toward you, and then lower the b Bracket presser foot lever so that the needle drops GETTING READY 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket Gently hold the end of the upper thread in opening. f your left hand, and then start sewing.

1

a 2 mm (1/16 inch) X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, Pass the upper thread down through the hole in then stops. the presser foot. • When lowering the presser foot, do not push Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the g and then remove the fabric. bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size. Raise the buttonhole lever to its original h position.

Memo TCHES z If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 56). PEDXINDEX APPENDIX 1 a Do not reduce the gap.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as e possible.

1

a Buttonhole lever

Reinforcement Stitching 101 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Darning

Fabric that has been torn can be darned. UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Darning is sewn as shown below.

1 GETTING READY

1

a Reinforcement stitching

Determine the desired length of the darning. Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot d (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned, "A" to the desired length. (The distance between and then lower the presser foot lever. the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1

2 1 TCHES 2 a Tear 3 b 2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. 4 • When lowering the presser foot, do not push PEDXINDEX APPENDIX a Presser foot scale in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the b Length of darning darning will not be sewn with the correct c 5 mm (3/16 inch) d 7 mm (1/4 inch) size. • A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.

Attach buttonhole foot "A". b • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 52 or 53 . c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 1 66). a Do not reduce the gap.

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Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as e possible.

1 UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

a Buttonhole lever GETTING READY The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

1

2 a Buttonhole lever b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in f your left hand, and then start sewing. TCHES X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,

g and then remove the fabric. INDEX APPENDIX

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original h position.

Memo z If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 56).

Reinforcement Stitching 103 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Eyelet Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch).

Stitch Width Stitch Length Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual 7.0, 6.0 or 7.0, 6.0 or 56 Sewing eyelets, for example, on 7.0 5.0 7.0 5.0 GETTING READY Eyelet stitch N belts (1/4) (1/4, 15/64 (1/4) (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) or 3/16)

Attach monogramming foot "N". Start sewing. a e X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the f center of the eyelet. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 56 . b • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch c length to select the desired eyelet size.

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick TCHES 7 mm 6 mm 5 mm paper or some other protective sheet under (1/4 inch)(15/64 inch) (3/16 inch) the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric. • For details, refer to "Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length" (page 55).

Memo INDEX APPENDIX Lower the needle into the fabric at the z If thin thread is used, the stitching may be d beginning of the stitching, and then lower the open. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice presser foot lever. before removing the fabric, one on top of the other.

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Horizontal Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Horizontal stitching is used to attach appliqués to fabric that cannot be moved around, such as cylindrical pieces. Straight stitches and zigzag stitches that sew to either the left or right are available.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Foot 68 Attaching appliqués to sleeves –– (straight stitch sewn to the left)

Horizontal GETTING READY straight stitch 69 Attaching appliqués to sleeves –– (straight stitch sewn to the right) N 70 Attaching appliqués to sleeves –– (zigzag stitch sewn to the left) Horizontal zigzag stitch 71 Attaching appliqués to sleeves –– (zigzag stitch sewn to the right)

The illustration below shows the sewing order for Lower the needle into the fabric at the the following explanation. d beginning of the stitching, and then start sewing. 4 Lower the needle at the upper-right corner.

3 1

2

Remove the flat bed attachment. a • For details, refer to "Stitching cylindrical pieces" (page 42). X The fabric is fed toward the back of the machine, as usual. TCHES Attach monogramming foot "N". b • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser After you have sewn to the corner, stop the foot" (page 37). e sewing machine, and then select stitch 68 .

Start sewing. f INDEX APPENDIX

Select stitch 1 . c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

X The fabric is fed to the right.

After you have sewn to the corner, stop the g sewing machine, and then select stitch 1 .

Horizontal Stitching 105 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch h button). Hold the reverse/reinforcement stitch button pressed until the stitching reaches the upper-left UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS corner. GETTING READY

X The fabric is fed forward.

After you have sewn to the corner, stop the i sewing machine, and then select stitch 69 .

Start sewing. j

X The fabric is fed to the left.

After you have sewn to the corner, stop the k sewing machine, and then select stitch 1 again.

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches at the beginning of TCHES l the stitching, stop the sewing machine.

Memo z The feeding direction of the fabric differs depending on the stitch that is selected. Be INDEX APPENDIX sure to guide the fabric while it is sewn.

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Decorative Stitching OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.

Stitch Width Stitch Length Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual 26 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Fagoting Sewing two pieces of fabric GETTING READY stitch together across an open seam 27 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 (3/16) (3/25–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

22 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

23 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Joining stitch Decorative bridging stitches (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

24 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 J (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

Shell tuck 20 Shell tuck stitching on collars 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0 stitch and curves (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)

25 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

Smocking 26 Smocking fabrics to add texture 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 stitch and elasticity (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

27 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

21 5.0 2.5–7.0 0.5 0.1–1.0 TCHES Scallop stitch Satin scallop stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)

33 3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 sewing, decorative (1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) hemming, heirloom stitching, 34 etc. 6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) INDEX APPENDIX

35 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0 (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) N 36 Decorative Decorative hemming and 5.0 1.5–7.0 4.0 1.5–4.0 (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16) stitch heirloom stitching, etc. on thin, mediumweight and plain weave 37 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 fabrics (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

38 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.0 1.5–4.0 (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

39 Decorative hemming, ribbon threading, heirloom stitching, 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) etc.

Decorative Stitching 107 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Width Stitch Length Presser Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Foot

Auto Manual UTILITY STI Auto SEWING BASICS Manual CONTENTS 40 6.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) Heirloom stitching, etc. N 41 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

29 4.0 0.0–7.0 3.0 2.0–4.0 (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) Decorative GETTING READY stitch 30 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 J (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Decorative stitching 31 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

32 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 N (3/16) (1/16–1/4 (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

Select stitch 26 or 27 . Fagoting d • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Stitching across an open seam is called "fagoting". It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch). is more decorative when thicker thread is used. e • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric width" (page 55). a along their seams. Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by f along the center of the two pieces of fabric. b about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer. TCHES 3

1 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX 2

a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer b Basting stitching c 4 mm (3/16 inch)

Attach zigzag foot "J". c After sewing is finished, remove the paper. J g

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

108 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Scallop stitching Smocking OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like The decorative stitch created by stitching or shells is called "scalloping". It is used on the collars of embroidering over gathers is called "smocking". It is blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to Attach monogramming foot "N". fabric. a Attach zigzag foot "J". a GETTING READY

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser Select stitch 21 . foot" (page 37). b • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the 66). b stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension. Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure c not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric. • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 56) and "Thread tension" (page 53).

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm c (3/8 inch).

1

• For better results, apply spray starch onto the

fabric and press with a hot iron before it is TCHES sewn.

Trim along the stitches. d a 1 cm (3/8 inch)

• It is not necessary to sew reverse/ INDEX APPENDIX reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.

Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. d Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

Decorative Stitching 109 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Select stitch 25 , 26 or 27 . e Shell tuck stitching • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page

66). UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The gathers that look like shells are called "shell Stitch between the straight stitches. tucks". They are used to decorate trims, the front of f blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

Fold the fabric along the bias. a GETTING READY

Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. g Attach zigzag foot "J". b

J

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Select stitch 20 , and then increase the thread c tension. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Sew while making sure that the needle drops TCHES d slightly off the edge of the fabric.

1 INDEX APPENDIX

a Needle drop point

110 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks e down to one side. Joining OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt.

Attach zigzag foot "J". a

J GETTING READY

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Sew together the right sides of the two pieces b of fabric, and then open up the seam allowances.

2

1

1

3 a Wrong side of fabric b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance c Straight stitch

Select stitch 22 , 23 or 24 . TCHES c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces

d up, and then sew over the seam with the INDEX APPENDIX center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.

1

a Right side of fabric

Decorative Stitching 111 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Heirloom stitching CAUTION

● UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. inch) or less, otherwise the needle may This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin bend or break. or mediumweight fabrics in addition to plain weave ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly fabrics. turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the Install the wing needle. presser foot. If the needle hits the presser a

foot, the needle may bend or break. GETTING READY

Partially removing threads is called "drawnwork". This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a loose weave. • Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle. Two ways to create drawnwork are described below. • For details on installing a needle, refer to ■ Drawnwork (Example 1) "Replacing the needle" (page 35). • The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.

Attach monogramming foot "N". b Pull out several threads from the fabric. a

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). TCHES

Select a stitch. c The stitches that can be used are 33 , 34 , Attach monogramming foot "N". b 35 36 37 38 39 40 41

, , , , , or . INDEX APPENDIX

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser or less. foot" (page 37). Start sewing. Select stitch 33 . d c

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

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With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew Sew along the other edge of the frayed section d along the right edge of the frayed section. j so that it looks like the previous stitching. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

N N GETTING READY Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. Set the mirror image pattern setting back to e k . X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until f is selected.

Press (OK key). g X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern appears.

Press to select . h To return to , press . TCHES

X The pattern is flipped. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Press (OK key). i X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Decorative Stitching 113 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Drawnwork (Example 2) OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Pull out several threads from two sections of GETTING READY a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch).

1 a 4 mm (3/16 inch)

Attach monogramming foot "N". b

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). TCHES Select stitch 36 . c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66).

Sew along the center of the unfrayed section. INDEX APPENDIX d

N

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Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming foot "N".

Sewing beautiful patterns Sewing patterns

In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following Attach monogramming foot "N". a

must be considered. GETTING READY ■ Fabric Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics with a coarse weave, affix the optional stabilizer material to the wrong side of the fabric or place a thin sheet of paper, such as tracing paper, under • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser the fabric. Since material puckering or bunched foot" (page 37). stitches may occur when satin stitches are sewn, be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric. Select a stitch. b ■ Needles and threads • For details, refer to steps d through i of When sewing thin, mediumweight or stretch "Selecting stitching" (page 66). fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing Start sewing. thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine c needle. In addition, 75/11 to 90/14 thread should be used. ■ Trial sewing Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material is used, the desired result may not be achieved. Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before sewing your project. In addition, while sewing, be TCHES sure to guide the fabric with your hands in order to prevent the fabric from slipping. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

• The stitching is sewn in the direction indicated by the arrow.

Sew reinforcement stitches. d When sewing with a character stitch, reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn after each character. • When sewing a pattern with a stitch other than a character stitch, it is useful to first set the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting. For details, refer to "Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches" (page 57).

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 115 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

When you are finished sewing, use scissors to e trim off any excess threads at the beginning of Combining patterns the stitching and between the patterns. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn together.

Select the first pattern, and then press a (OK key). X The first pattern is selected and appears in the LCD. GETTING READY

• When the sewing is started, the selected pattern is sewn repeatedly until the sewing machine is stopped.

Press the + key in the operation panel. b X The screen for selecting a pattern appears again.

Select the next pattern, and then press c (OK key). To select a different stitch type, press (Stitch selection key). X The combined patterns appear in the LCD. TCHES

• To remove a selected pattern, press the C key in the operation panel. The pattern that was selected last is removed. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Repeat steps b and c. d

After all of the desired patterns are selected, e start sewing.

1

a Sewing direction

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X The order that the patterns appear in the LCD is the order that they will be sewn. Repeat sewing patterns OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the procedure described below.

Select the pattern. a • For details, refer to "Combining patterns" (on the previous page).

Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. GETTING READY b X The settings screen appears. Memo Press , , and (Arrow keys) until z Up to 70 patterns can be combined. c is selected. z Some utility stitches cannot be combined. z If multiple patterns have been combined, the sewing machine stops once all the selected patterns displayed in the LCD have been sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, refer to "Repeat sewing patterns". z The combined pattern can be stored for later Press (OK key). d use. For details, refer to "Storing a pattern" X The screen for specifying repeat sewing (page 123). appears.

Press to select (repeat sewing). e To return to (single sewing), press . TCHES

Press (OK key).

f INDEX APPENDIX X The initial stitch screen appears again, and the machine is set to repeatedly sew the selected pattern.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 117 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1 2 Checking the selected pattern OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Up to 70 patterns can be combined. If all of the selected patterns cannot be displayed in the LCD at the same time, the pattern can be checked according to the following procedure.

Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. a X The settings screen appears. GETTING READY Press , , and (Arrow keys) until b is selected.

a Single b Repeated Press (OK key). c X The screen for checking the pattern appears. Note z If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is Press and to scroll through the pattern d repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is and check it. stopped. z If the sewing machine is turned off, the repeated/single sewing setting returns to its default setting. TCHES Press (OK key). e X The initial stitch screen appears again. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

118 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Changing the pattern size OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The size of decorative stitches, decorative satin stitches, and character stitches in the Gothic font and outline style can be switched between large and small. However, the size of other patterns cannot be changed.

Select a stitch. a Select one of the decorative stitches, decorative GETTING READY satin stitches, or character stitches in either the Memo Gothic font or the outline style. z The large pattern size is the default. If the small pattern size is selected, small patterns Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. can be combined and connected. b z X The settings screen appears. If multiple patterns have been combined, the size of each selected pattern can be Press , , and (Arrow keys) until specified. c is selected.

Press (OK key). d X The screen for changing the pattern size appears. TCHES Press and until the desired size is e selected. Select for the small size or select for the large size. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

X The pattern size is changed.

Press (OK key). f X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 119 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Changing the stitch density Changing the pattern length OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the The length of one part of a satin stitch can be set to stitch density can be changed. one of five sizes.

Select a decorative satin stitch . Select a satin stitch . a a GETTING READY

Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. b b X The settings screen appears. X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until Press , , and (Arrow keys) until c is selected. c is selected.

Press (OK key). Press (OK key). d d X The screen for changing the length of a satin X The screen for specifying the stitching stitch appears. density of the decorative satin stitch appears. TCHES

Press and until the desired ratio is Press and until the desired density is e selected. e selected. The length can be set within the range of Select for coarser stitching or select for and . finer stitching. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

X The satin stitch length is changed.

Press (OK key). Press (OK key). f f X The initial stitch screen appears again, and X The initial stitch screen appears again. the stitching density is changed.

CAUTION ● If the stitching density is too fine, depending on the needle, the stitches may be bunched together, causing the needle to break.

120 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Examples of step patterns Shifting patterns OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Satin stitches can be shifted to the left or right by half the width of the pattern, allowing you to create a step-shaped pattern. This is called a "step pattern".As an example, the procedure for creating the following pattern is described below. GETTING READY

Select the first pattern in the satin stitch group a .

Press the + key in the operation panel. b X The screen for selecting a pattern appears again.

Select or to specify the direction in c which the next pattern is shifted.

X The next pattern selected is moved half a width to either the right or the left. TCHES

Press the + key in the operation panel.

d INDEX APPENDIX X The screen for selecting a pattern appears again.

Select the next pattern. e

X The patterns are combined.

Specify that the patterns will be sewn f repeatedly. • For details, refer to "Repeat sewing patterns" (page 117).

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 121 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Mirror imaging the pattern Memo z Some of the utility and decorative patterns OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical can be mirror imaged. axis. z Mirror imaged patterns can also be combined with other patterns. Select a stitch. a Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. b X The settings screen appears. GETTING READY Press , , and (Arrow keys) until c is selected.

Press (OK key). d X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern appears.

Press to select . e To return to , press . X The pattern is mirror imaged. TCHES

Press (OK key). f X

The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX APPENDIX

1 2

a Normal b Mirror-imaged

122 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Check the contents, and then press (OK Storing a pattern g key). The contents stored in the pocket are OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Combined patterns can be stored for later use. Since overwritten. stored patterns are not lost after the sewing machine X "Saving..." appears while the pattern is being is turned off, they can be recalled at any time. This is stored in the pocket. convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be used often. Up to five patterns can be stored. • Do not turn off the sewing machine while a pattern is being stored, otherwise the pattern ■ Storing a pattern data may be lost.

Create the combined pattern that you wish to X After the pattern is stored, the initial stitch GETTING READY a store. screen appears again. • For details, refer to "Combining patterns" ■ Recalling a pattern (page 116). Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation a panel. X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears.

Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation Press , , and (Arrow keys) until b panel. b is selected. X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until c is selected. Press (OK key). c X The screen for selecting a pocket appears.

Press and until the pocket containing the d pattern that you wish to recall is selected.

Press (OK key). A pattern is stored in the pocket. TCHES d X The screen for selecting the storage location (pocket) appears.

Press and until the pocket (1 through 5) e where you wish to store the pattern is Press (OK key). INDEX APPENDIX selected. e indicates an empty pocket. indicates a X The contents of the selected pocket are pocket where a pattern is already stored. displayed.

Check the contents, and then press (OK f key).

Press (OK key). f X The contents of the selected pocket are To select a different pocket, press (Back displayed. key). X The initial stitch screen appears again, and the pattern from the selected pocket is recalled.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 123 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

If the pattern appears as shown below, the Realigning the pattern stitching is misaligned in the vertical direction. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending on the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. If this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for your project.

Attach monogramming foot "N". a If the pattern appears as shown below, the GETTING READY stitching is misaligned in the horizontal direction.

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation b panel. X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears. If the pattern is not sewn correctly, follow the steps below to adjust the sewing. Press , , and (Arrow keys) until c is selected, and then select . Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. f X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until g or is selected. To adjust the vertical position, select . To X The pattern alignment stitch is selected. adjust the horizontal position, select .

Start sewing. TCHES d

Press (OK key).

h INDEX APPENDIX X The pattern for making the adjustment is X The screen for adjusting the pattern appears. sewn. ■ Vertical pattern adjustment X The sewing machine stops after it has finished sewing the pattern.

Check the sewn pattern. e If the part of the pattern indicated in the illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is ■ Horizontal pattern adjustment correctly aligned.

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Press (–) or (+). i X Make the necessary adjustments according

to how the pattern is sewn. UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS ■ Vertical pattern adjustment

Press to increase the adjustment setting. GETTING READY

Press to decrease the adjustment setting.

■ Horizontal pattern adjustment

Press to increase the adjustment setting. TCHES

Press to decrease the adjustment setting. INDEX APPENDIX

Start sewing again, and then check the pattern. j Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn correctly.

When the pattern is sewn correctly, press k (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 125 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Designing a Pattern OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself. Mark the points in the pattern that are Drawing a sketch of the c positioned at intersections in the grid, and then link those points with a continuous pattern straight line.

Prepare a grid sheet set. GETTING READY

Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet a set. Determine the sewing order. d 9 8 6 5 10 4 7 11 12 3 13 2 0 1 15 16 17 Draw the pattern as one continuous line and 14 with the start point and the end point of the For a more attractive stitch, close the pattern by design at the same height. intersecting the line. TCHES

If the pattern will be repeated, determine the b space between the repeating patterns. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

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Specify the coordinates of the second point, Entering the pattern data f and then press (OK key). OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and program the pattern into the sewing machine.

Attach monogramming foot "N". a X A screen appears, allowing you to specify the settings for the stitching between the two points.

Specify whether single stitching or triple GETTING READY g stitching will be sewn between the points. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser Press and to select for single stitching or foot" (page 37). for triple stitching, and then press (OK key). Turn on the sewing machine. b Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation c panel. X The screen containing the various types of X A screen for selecting the next operation stitches appears. appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until Select , and then press (OK key). d is selected, and then press (OK key). h X The screen for entering a pattern appears.

1 • If you make a mistake while specifying a point, press the C key to erase the last point specified. X A screen for specifying the next point TCHES 2 3 appears. a Number of the current point/Total number of points Repeat steps f through h to specify each b Horizontal coordinate (0–75) i c Vertical coordinate (0–14) point. Up to 99 points can be entered.

Check the grid sheet set, and specify the INDEX APPENDIX e coordinates of the first point. Press and to select the horizontal coordinate and press and to select the vertical coordinate, and then press (OK key). After all points in the pattern have been j specified, select in the screen that appears

in step h, and then press (OK key).

X The screen appears.

Designing a Pattern 127 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Specify the various stitching settings, such as k reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same way as with other stitches. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

• With this screen displayed, pressing (Back key) allows you to add or remove points. GETTING READY

Memo z To store the entered pattern data, store it from the embroidery screen. For details, refer to "Storing a pattern" (page 123). z The pattern in the LCD will appear different from the pattern drawn in the grid sheet set and the actual sewn stitch. Also, refer to these when entering the design. TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

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Examples of designs

Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch. UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Point Point Point Point 0 0020 38 13 0 0020 16 10

1 12 0 21 35 14 1 3521 18 12 GETTING READY 2 18 3 22 32 13 2 5822 21 13 3 22 6 23 30 10 3 81123 25 14 4 23 10 24 32 6 4 12 13 24 28 14 5 21 13 25 35 3 5 17 14 25 33 13 6 17 14 26 41 0 6 20 14 26 37 11 7 14 13 27 45 0 7 24 13 27 41 8 8 12 11 28 47 4 8 27 12 28 43 5 9 91329 44 7 9 29 11 29 44 0 10 61430 45 11 10 31 9 11 31331 47 13 11 32 6 12 11032 50 14 12 30 3 13 3633 54 13 13 27 1 14 6334 56 10 14 24 0 15 12 0 35 55 6 15 21 0 16 41 0 36 51 3 16 18 1 17 43 4 37 45 0 17 16 3 18 40 7 38 70 0 18 15 5 19 41 11 19 15 8 TCHES Point Point Point Point 0 0020 10 11 0 0720 20 11 1 30 0 21 12 10 1 5721 21 7 2 32 1 22 89 2 4322 24 7 3 32 7 23 12 8 3 5723 23 14 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX 4 32 10 24 76 4 8724 24 7 5 33 12 25 12 6 5 7025 27 7 6 35 11 26 63 6 8726 27 11 7 35 8 27 10 2 7 11 7 27 27 7 8 37 12 28 50 8 11 3 28 32 7 9 35 14 29 10 2 9 11 7 29 27 11 10 32 14 30 16 1 10 16 7 30 23 14 11 30 11 31 19 0 11 11 3 31 20 11 12 30 5 32 23 0 12 7032 16 7 13 29 3 33 22 6 13 4333 20 3 14 26 8 34 17 10 14 0734 23 0 15 24 10 35 22 6 15 41135 27 3 16 18 13 36 23 0 16 71436 32 7 17 13 14 37 19 0 17 11 11 18 12 14 38 42 0 18 16 7 19 13 12 19 21 7

Designing a Pattern 129 OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS GETTING READY TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

130 CONTENTSGETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX

Stitch Settings...... 132 Stitch Maintenance...... 140 Troubleshooting ...... 142 Index ...... 150 The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described chapter.in this 4 APPENDIX APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Settings OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches GETTING READY

Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Programmed Stitch Name Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Reinforcement Thread-Cutting

Pattern Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot

1 Basic stitching, sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Reverse + J Yes Reverse No gathers or pintucks, etc. (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting

Left Basic stitching and Straight 2 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Reinforcement + stitch J sewing gathers or (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting Yes pintucks

3 Attaching zippers, basic J/I stitching, sewing gathers ––2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes Reverse Reverse + No (3/32) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting

Center or pintucks, etc. Attaching sleeves, sewing Triple 4 inseams, sewing stretch stretch J 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No fabrics and decorative (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting stitch stitching

Stretch 5 Sewing stretch fabrics and 1.0 1.0–3.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + J Yes Reinforcement No stitch decorative stitching (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

Basting 6 5-30 J Temporarily securing 0.0 0.0–7.0 20 (3/16- No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No stitch (0) (0–1/4) (3/4) 1-3/16) thread-cutting

7 Overcasting and J 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 Yes Reverse Reverse + No attaching appliqués (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) thread-cutting

Zigzag Center

stitch TCHES 8 Beginning sewing from J 3.5 2.5–5.0 1.4 0.3–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes the right needle position (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting Right

9 Overcasting on 2-point mediumweight or stretch J 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes zigzag stitch fabrics, attaching elastic, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting darning, etc. Overcasting on 10 INDEX APPENDIX 3-point mediumweight or stretch J 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No zigzag stitch fabrics, attaching elastic, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting darning, etc.

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Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Programmed Stitch Name Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Reinforcement Thread-Cutting Stitching Pattern OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Presser Foot Twin Needle Twin

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot

11 Overcasting on thin or 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + G No Reinforcement No mediumweight fabrics (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

12 Overcasting on thick G 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No fabrics (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

13 Overcasting on thick 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + G fabrics and decorative No Reinforcement No

(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting GETTING READY Overcasting stitching stitch 14 Overcasting on stretch J 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) thread-cutting

15 Overcasting on thick or J 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No stretch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) thread-cutting

16 Overcasting on stretch 4.0 0.0–7.0 4.0 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + J fabrics and decorative (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting No stitching

17 Blind hem stitching on 0.0 2.0 1.0–3.5 Reinforcement + R 3← – 3→ No Reinforcement No mediumweight fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8) thread-cutting Blind hem stitch 18 Blind hem stitching on 0.0 2.0 1.0–3.5 Reinforcement + R 3← – 3→ No Reinforcement No stretch fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8) thread-cutting

19 Appliqué 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Reinforcement + J Appliqué stitching Yes Reinforcement No stitch (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

Shell tuck 20 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + J Shell tuck stitching Yes Reinforcement No stitch (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting

21 Satin scallop 5.0 2.5–7.0 0.5 0.1–1.0 Reinforcement + N Scallop stitching Yes Reinforcement No stitch (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) thread-cutting

22 Patchwork stitching and 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + J Yes Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting TCHES

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and Joining 23 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + J sewing overcasting on Yes Reinforcement No stitch (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting both pieces of fabric, such as with tricot

24

Patchwork stitching and INDEX APPENDIX J 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting

25 Smocking Smocking stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + J Yes Reinforcement No stitch decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

26 Fagoting and decorative 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + J Yes Reinforcement No stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting Fagoting stitch 27 Fagoting and decorative 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + J Yes Reinforcement No stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

Elastic- 28 Attaching elastic to 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + attaching J Yes Reinforcement No stretch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting stitch

Stitch Settings 133 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Programmed Stitch Name Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Reinforcement Thread-Cutting Stitching Pattern OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Presser Foot Twin Needle Twin

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot

29 J Decorative stitching 4.0 0.0–7.0 3.0 2.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

30 J Decorative stitching 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

31 J Decorative stitching 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting GETTING READY

32 Decorative stitching and 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + N Yes Reinforcement No elastic-attaching (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting

33 Lace sewing, decorative 3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Reinforcement + N hemming, heirloom (1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting No stitching, etc.

34 Decorative hemming, 6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 Reinforcement + N No Reinforcement No heirloom stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting

Decorative hemming on 35 thin, mediumweight and N 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No Decorative plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting stitch heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on 36 thin, mediumweight and N 5.0 1.5–7.0 4.0 1.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) 1/16–3/16) thread-cutting heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on 37 thin, mediumweight and N 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on 38 thin, mediumweight and 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.0 1.5–4.0 Reinforcement + N Yes Reinforcement No plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting heirloom stitching, etc.

39 Decorative hemming, 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 Reinforcement + N ribbon threading, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting No heirloom stitching, etc. TCHES

40 Decorative stitching, 6.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + N smocking stitching, (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting No heirloom stitching, etc.

41 Decorative stitching, 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + N smocking stitching, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting No heirloom stitching, etc. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

134 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Programmed Stitch Name Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Reinforcement Thread-Cutting Stitching Pattern OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Presser Foot Twin Needle Twin

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot

42 Horizontal buttonholes A on thin and 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 No Automatic Thread-cutting No (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement mediumweight fabrics

43 Horizontal buttonholes A on areas that are subject 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 No Automatic Thread-cutting No (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement to strain

44 Horizontal buttonholes A 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 No Automatic Thread-cutting No on thick fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement GETTING READY

45 Secured buttonholes for 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic A No Thread-cutting No fabrics that have backings (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

46 Buttonholes for stretch or 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 0.5–2.0 Automatic A (1/8– 15/ No Thread-cutting No knit fabrics (15/54) (1/16) (1/32–1/16) reinforcement Buttonhole 64) stitch 47 3.0–6.0 Buttonholes for stretch 6.0 1.5 1.0–3.0 Automatic A (15/54) (1/8– 15/ (1/16) (1/16–1/8) No reinforcement Thread-cutting No fabrics 64)

48 A Bound buttonholes 5.0 0.0–6.0 2.0 0.2–4.0 No Automatic Thread-cutting No (3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) reinforcement

49 Keyhole buttonholes for A 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 No Automatic Thread-cutting No thick or furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

50 Keyhole buttonholes for A mediumweight and thick 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 No Automatic Thread-cutting No (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement fabrics

51 Horizontal buttonholes 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic A No Thread-cutting No for thick or furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

52 Darning mediumweight 7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic A No Thread-cutting No fabrics (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32) reinforcement Darning stitch 53 7.0 2.5–7.0 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic A Darning thick fabrics (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/32) No reinforcement Thread-cutting No TCHES

54 Reinforcing openings and Bar tack 2.0 1.0–3.0 0.4 0.3–1.0 Automatic A areas where the seam No Thread-cutting No stitch (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement easily comes loose

Button- 55 sewing M Button sewing 3.5 2.5–4.5 – – No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/8) (3/32–3/16) thread-cutting stitch

7.0, 6.0, 7.0, 6.0, INDEX APPENDIX 56 Sewing eyelets, for 7.0 5.0 (1/4, 7.0 5.0 (1/4, Automatic Eyelet stitch N No Thread-cutting No example, on belts (1/4) 15/64, (1/4) 15/64, reinforcement 3/16) 3/16) Piecing straight stitching 57 (with a seam allowance of 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 0.2–5.0 Reinforcement + J No Reinforcement No 6.5 mm from the right (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting Piecing edge of the presser foot) straight stitch Piecing straight stitching 58 (with a seam allowance of J 1.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 0.2–5.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes 6.5 mm from the left edge (1/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting of the presser foot) Straight stitch that 59 Straight stitch quilting that 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + looks J No Reinforcement No looks hand-sewn (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting hand-sewn (for quilting) Zigzag 60 Appliqué quilting, free- stitch J motion quilting, satin 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) thread-cutting (for quilting) stitching

Stitch Settings 135 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Programmed Stitch Name Application [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Reinforcement Thread-Cutting Stitching Pattern OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Presser Foot Twin Needle Twin

Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Appliqué 61 Attaching appliqués and stitch J 1.5 0.5–5.0 1.2 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No binding (1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting (for quilting) Quilting stitch 62 Quilting background J 7.0 1.0–-7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (for stitching (stippling) (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting stippling) 63 Sewing straight stitches 0.0 0.0–2.5 2.5 0.2–5.0 Reinforcement + S No Reinforcement No GETTING READY while cutting the fabric (0) (0–3/32) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting

64 Sewing zigzag stitches 3.5 3.5–5.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 Reinforcement + S No Reinforcement No while cutting the fabric (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (0–3/16) thread-cutting

65 Overcasting on thin and 3.5 3.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + S mediumweight fabrics No Reinforcement No Side cutter (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting while cutting the fabric 66 Overcasting on thick 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + S fabrics while cutting the (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting No fabric Overcasting on 67 mediumweight and thick S 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No fabrics while cutting the (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting fabric

68 Attaching appliqués to N sleeves (straight stitch ––––NoReinforcementReinforcement + No thread-cutting Horizontal sewn to the left) straight stitch 69 Attaching appliqués to N sleeves (straight stitch ––––NoReinforcementReinforcement + No thread-cutting sewn to the right) Attaching appliqués to 70 Reinforcement + N sleeves (zigzag stitch ––––NoReinforcement No thread-cutting Horizontal sewn to the left) zigzag stitch 71 Attaching appliqués to Reinforcement + N sleeves (zigzag stitch ––––NoReinforcementthread-cutting No sewn to the right) TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

136 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Other stitches OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Stitch Type Pattern Adjustable Pattern Size Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle Twin Length/width GETTING READY Stitching Density Stitching Adjustable Pattern Adjustable Left/Right Flipping Left/Right 1 2345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Large: No Decorative NNoLarge, No Small: Yes stitches 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29* 30* Small Yes (*Not possible)

31**

1 2345678910

Yes Yes Yes Satin stitches N (*Not Large No (*Not (*Not 11 12 13 14 15 16 17* 18* possible) possible) possible)

1 23456*7*8*9*10* Yes Cross- NNoLargeNo(*Not Yes stitches

possible) TCHES

Decorative 1 2345678910 Yes Large, satin NNoSmall Yes (length Yes stitches only)

** Pattern for making adjustment PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Stitch Settings 137 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Type Pattern UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Adjustable Pattern Size Pattern Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle Length/width Stitching Density Stitching Adjustable Pattern Adjustable Left/Right Flipping Left/Right 12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 GETTING READY 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Character stitches NNoLarge, No No Yes Small (Gothic font) 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97

12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 TCHES 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Character INDEX APPENDIX stitches N No Large No No Yes (Script font) 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97

138 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Type Pattern UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Adjustable Pattern Size Pattern Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle Length/width Stitching Density Stitching Adjustable Pattern Adjustable Left/Right Flipping Left/Right 12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 GETTING READY 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 Character stitches NNoLarge, No No Yes (Outline 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Small style) 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97 TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Stitch Settings 139 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Maintenance OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

Cleaning the machine surface Cleaning the shuttle

If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and shuttle; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.

then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning GETTING READY it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry Turn off the sewing machine. cloth. a

CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.

Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and b then slide it toward you. TCHES

1

a Bobbin cover INDEX APPENDIX X The needle plate cover is removed.

Turn the balance wheel toward you until the c tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of the race shelf.

3 1 4

2

a Shuttle race b Shuttle c Edge of the shuttle race d Tip of the shuttle hook

140 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

• Be sure to turn the balance wheel toward Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into you. Turning the balance wheel away from g the needle plate, and then slide the cover back you may damage the machine. on. OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Remove the shuttle. d Grasp the shuttle, and then pull it out. GETTING READY

1 CAUTION ● a Shuttle Never use a shuttle that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to tangled, the needle may break or sewing e remove any lint and dust from the race and its performance may suffer. For a new surrounding area. shuttle (part code: XC3153-051), contact your nearest authorized service center. ● Be sure that the shuttle is correctly installed, otherwise the needle may break.

1 2 a Cleaning brush b Shuttle race • Do not apply oil to the shuttle.

Check that the edge of the race shelf is TCHES

f positioned as in step c, and then insert the shuttle so that the projection on the shuttle aligns with the spring. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX 1

2

2

1 a Projection b Spring

Maintenance 141 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Troubleshooting OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. If the problem persists, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center.

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 11

The start/stop button was not Press the start/stop button. page 48 GETTING READY pressed. The sewing The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. – machine does not operate. Do not use the start/stop button The start/stop button was pressed, when the foot controller is even though the foot controller is connected. To use the start/stop page 48 connected. button, disconnect the foot controller.

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.

Use the screwdriver to firmly The needle clamp screw is loose. page 35 tighten the screw.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.

Select a thread and needle that The combination of fabric, thread are appropriate for the type of page 34 and needle is not correct. fabric being sewn.

The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch page 132 you wish to sew. that you wish to sew.

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 53 TCHES

The fabric is pulled too much. Lightly guide the fabric. – The needle breaks. The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 24

The area around the hole in the Replace the needle plate. Contact

needle plate is scratched, or has a your retailer or the nearest INDEX – APPENDIX burr on it. authorized service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot. Contact presser foot is scratched, or has a your retailer or the nearest – burr on it. authorized service center.

Replace the shuttle. Contact your The shuttle is scratched, or has a burr retailer or the nearest authorized – on it. service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 18 this machine is not used. designed specifically for this machine.

142 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

The upper thread was not threaded correctly (for example, the spool is UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS not installed correctly, the spool cap Correct the upper threading. page 24 is too big for the spool being used, or the thread has come out of the needle bar thread hook).

There are knots or tangles in the Remove any knots or tangles. – thread.

The selected needle is not GETTING READY Select a needle that is appropriate appropriate for the thread being page 34 for the type of thread being used. used.

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 53

Remove the tangle thread. If the The thread is tangled, for example, in thread is tangled in the shuttle, page 140 the shuttle. clean the shuttle. The upper thread breaks. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 35 The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.

The area around the hole in the Replace the needle plate. Contact needle plate is scratched, or has a your retailer or the nearest – burr on it. authorized service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot. Contact presser foot is scratched, or has a your retailer or the nearest – burr on it. authorized service center.

Replace the shuttle. Contact your The shuttle is scratched, or has a burr retailer or the nearest authorized – on it. service center. TCHES Incorrect bobbins will not work A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 18 this machine is not used. designed specifically for this machine.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin page 22 installed. thread. INDEX APPENDIX

The bobbin is scratched or does not Replace the bobbin. – rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.

The lower thread is Remove the tangled thread and tangled or breaks. The thread is tangled. page 140 clean the shuttle.

Incorrect bobbins will not work A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 18 this machine is not used. designed specifically for this machine.

Troubleshooting 143 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

The upper thread was not threaded Correct the upper UTILITY STI threading. SEWING BASICS page 24 CONTENTS correctly.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin page 22 installed. thread.

Select a thread and needle that The combination of fabric, thread are appropriate for the type of page 34 and needle is not correct. fabric being sewn. The thread tension is incorrect. The presser foot holder is incorrectly Correctly install the presser foot GETTING READY page 39 installed. holder.

Adjust the tension of the upper The thread tension is incorrect. page 53 thread.

Incorrect bobbins will not work A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 18 this machine is not used. designed specifically for this machine.

The upper thread was not threaded Correctly thread the upper thread page 22, correctly, or the bobbin is incorrectly and correctly install the bobbin page 24 installed. thread.

The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 24

Select a thread and needle that The combination of fabric, thread are appropriate for the type of page 34 and needle is not correct. The fabric is fabric being sewn. wrinkled. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 35

Shorten the stitch length or sew If thin fabrics are being sewn, the with stabilizer material under the page 56 stitch is too long. fabric. TCHES

Adjust the tension of the upper The thread tension is incorrect. page 53 thread.

The upper thread was not threaded Correct the upper threading. page 24 correctly. PEDXINDEX APPENDIX Select a thread and needle that The combination of fabric, thread are appropriate for the type of page 34 and needle is not correct. Stitches are fabric being sewn. skipped. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 35

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 35

Dust has accumulated under the Remove the needle plate cover page 140 needle plate or in the shuttle. and clean the shuttle.

144 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

Dust has accumulated in the feed Clean the shuttle. UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS page 140 CONTENTS dogs or in the shuttle.

The upper thread was not threaded Correct the upper threading. page 24 correctly. A high-pitched Replace the shuttle.Contact your The shuttle is scratched, or has a burr noise is made while retailer or the nearest authorized – sewing. on it. service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work GETTING READY A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin page 18 this machine is not used. designed specifically for this machine.

Press the needle position button The needle was not raised. page 27 The needle threader to raise the needle. cannot be used. The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 35

The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch page 132 you wish to sew. that you wish to sew.

The stitch is not Adjust the tension of the upper The thread tension is incorrect. page 53 sewn correctly. thread.

Remove the tangle thread. If the The thread is tangled, for example, in thread is tangled in the shuttle, page 140 the shuttle. clean the shuttle.

Slide the drop feed lever to the The feed dogs are lowered. page 97 left.

The stitch is too close. Lengthen the stitch length. page 56

The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is TCHES appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch page 132 The fabric does not you wish to sew. that you wish to sew. feed. Turn the presser foot pressure dial The pressure of the presser foot is to the right to increase the page 39 weak.

pressure of the presser foot. INDEX APPENDIX

Remove the tangle thread. If the The thread is tangled, for example, in thread is tangled in the shuttle, page 140 the shuttle. clean the shuttle.

The sewing lamp Contact your retailer or the The sewing lamp is damaged. – does not come on. nearest authorized service center.

Nothing appears in The brightness of the LCD is either Adjust the brightness of the LCD. page 147 the LCD. too light or too dark.

Troubleshooting 145 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Error messages

If the start/stop button is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or UTILITY STI if an SEWING BASICS operation is performed CONTENTS incorrectly, an error message appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear. If you press (OK key), (Back key) or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the message disappears.

Error Message Probable Cause

The motor locked up because the thread is tangled. GETTING READY

The start/stop button, reverse/reinforcement stitch button or thread cutter button was pressed while the presser foot was raised.

The reverse/reinforcement stitch button, needle position button or thread cutter button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.

The start/stop button was pressed while the foot controller was connected.

A stitch other than the buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is lowered.

The buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the start/ stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised.

The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed after a stitch has been deleted.

A pattern is being stored. TCHES

The bobbin winder is winding the bobbin.

More than 71 patterns are being combined. INDEX APPENDIX

The start/stop button was pressed without connecting the foot controller while the setting for adjusting the stitch width using the sewing speed controller is set to [ON].

The twin needle setting is selected while a pattern that cannot be sewn with the twin needle is selected.

The first pattern was selected while two or more patterns are combined.

The selected setting cannot be changed with the selected pattern.

146 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Nothing appears in the LCD Easily adjusting the thread

tension UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is either too light or too dark. If this is the case, perform The sewing machine can be set up so that the tension the following operation. of the upper thread can easily be adjusted.

Turn off the sewing machine. Turn off the sewing machine. a a GETTING READY

While pressing (Back key) in the operation While holding (Settings key) in the b b panel, turn on the sewing machine. operation panel pressed, turn on the sewing machine. Press (–) or (+). c Adjust the brightness of the LCD so that the When the sewing machine beeps, release c screens can be seen. (Settings key). X The tension of the upper thread can now be Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on adjusted using the stitch keys. d again. ■ To decrease the tension of the upper thread Press in the operation panel. ■ To increase the tension of the upper thread Press in the operation panel. TCHES

12 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX a Loose b Tight

Memo z This setting does not change if the sewing machine is turned off. z If the sewing machine is set up in this way, these keys cannot be used to select stitches. To use these keys for selecting stitches, perform the same operation described above to return the sewing machine to its original setup.

Troubleshooting 147 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Operation beep Cancelling the operation beep OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to performed, a beep is sounded. beep each time an operation panel key is pressed. This setting can be changed so that the machine does ■ For a correct operation not beep. One beep is sounded.

■ If an incorrect operation is performed Turn on the sewing machine. a Two or four beeps are sounded. GETTING READY ■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled The sewing machine continues to beep for four seconds. The machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and X The LCD comes on. correct it before continuing to sew. Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. b X The settings screen appears.

Press , , and (Arrow keys) until c is selected.

Press (OK key). d X The screen for changing the beep setting appears. TCHES

Press to select . e To return to , press . INDEX APPENDIX

X The machine is now set so that it will not beep.

Press (OK key). f X The initial stitch screen appears again.

148 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Removing the upper cover OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS If the upper cover of the sewing machine was removed, re-attach it as described in the following procedure.

Hold the upper cover level. a GETTING READY

Push the upper cover down to re-attach it to b the machine. TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

Troubleshooting 149 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Index OTNSSWN AISUTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS

Symbols creating patterns ...... 126 cross-stitch ...... 115 + key ...... Cover E cross-wound thread ...... 19 curves ...... 62 Numerics cylindrical pieces ...... 42 1/4 inch quilting foot ...... Cover A, 95 2-point zigzag stitch ...... 69 D GETTING READY 3-point zigzag stitch ...... 69 darning ...... 102 decorative stitching ...... 107 A designing patterns ...... 126 accessories ...... Cover A E adjustable zipper/piping foot ...... Cover A, 88 adjusting the thread tension ...... 53 elastic tape ...... 90 air vent ...... Cover C electrical outlet ...... 11 appliqué ...... 93 error messages ...... 146 arrow keys ...... Cover E even seam allowance ...... 64 automatic reinforcement stitching ...... 57 extra spool pin ...... Cover A, 29 automatic reverse stitching ...... 57 eyelet ...... 104 automatic thread-cutting ...... 2, 58 eyelet punch ...... Cover A, 79, 104

B F back key ...... Cover E fagoting ...... 108 balance wheel ...... Cover C, 47 features ...... 2 bar tack ...... 100 feed dog position switch ...... Cover C, 97 baseline ...... 73 feed dogs ...... Cover C, 97 basic stitching ...... 73 flat bed attachment ...... Cover B basting ...... 72 flipping ...... 122 blind hem stitch ...... 74 foot controller ...... Cover A, 48 bobbin ...... Cover A, 22 foot controller jack ...... Cover C bobbin cover ...... Cover C, 23 free-arm sewing ...... 42 TCHES bobbin thread ...... 22 free-motion quilting ...... 97 pulling up ...... 31 front view ...... Cover B bobbin winder ...... Cover B, 19 bobbin winder seat ...... 20 H bobbin winder shaft spring ...... 19 bobbin-winding ...... 2, 18 handle ...... Cover C brightness ...... 16 hard case ...... INDEX Cover A APPENDIX built-in stitches ...... 2 heirloom stitching ...... 112 button sewing ...... 77, 81 horizontal stitching ...... 105 buttonhole foot ...... 80 buttonhole lever ...... Cover C, 78, 101, 103 I buttonhole stitching ...... 76 Inserting a piping ...... 89 C J C key ...... Cover E changing machine settings ...... 14 joining ...... 111 changing sewing direction ...... 62 joining stitch ...... 92 changing the needle ...... 35 changing the settings ...... 14 K checking patterns ...... 118 cleaning ...... 140 knee lifter ...... Cover A, 2, 61 cleaning brush ...... Cover A, 141 knee lifter mounting slot ...... Cover B combining patterns ...... 116 crazy quilt stitching ...... 94

150 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

L quilting ...... 96 quilting foot ...... Cover A, 97 language ...... 17 quilting guide ...... Cover A, 96

LCD ...... Cover E, 12, 16, 147 UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS brightness ...... 16, 147 R leather/vinyl fabrics ...... 64 lower threading ...... 2, 22 realigning ...... 124 realigning patterns ...... 124 M rear view ...... Cover C recalling a pattern ...... 123 main power switch ...... Cover C, 11 reinforcement stitching ...... 50, 57, 100 maintenance ...... 140 repeat sewing ...... 117 mirror image ...... 122 replacing the needle ...... 33, 35 GETTING READY reverse/reinforcement stitch button ...... Cover D N S needle ...... 33 needle bar thread hook ...... Cover C, 26 safety instructions ...... 6, 8, 10 needle clamp screw ...... 36 satin stitch ...... 115 needle plate ...... Cover C, 64 satin stitching ...... 98 needle plate cover ...... 140 saving patterns ...... 123 needle position ...... 55, 73 saving stitch settings ...... 60 needle position button ...... Cover D scallop stitching ...... 109 needle set ...... Cover A screen language ...... 17 needle stop position ...... 16 screwdriver ...... Cover A, 36 needle threader lever ...... Cover B, 27 seam ripper ...... Cover A, 79 non stick foot ...... Cover A, 64 selecting stitching ...... 66 settings ...... 14 O settings key ...... Cover E, 14 sewing machine help key ...... Cover E, 13 OK key ...... Cover E sewing machine needles ...... 33 open toe foot ...... Cover A sewing speed ...... 48 openings ...... 100 sewing speed controller ...... Cover B, Cover D, 98 operating procedures ...... 13 shell tuck stitch ...... 110 operation beep ...... 148 shutter ...... 26 operation buttons ...... Cover B, Cover D shuttle ...... 22, 140 operation manual ...... Cover A shuttle hook ...... 140

operation panel ...... Cover B, Cover E side cutter ...... Cover A, 70 TCHES optional accessories ...... 1 side view ...... Cover C original patterns ...... 126 size ...... 119 overcasting stitches ...... 68 sleeves ...... 100 smocking ...... 109 P spool cap ...... Cover A, 19, 25 spool net ...... Cover A, 31 PEDXINDEX APPENDIX patchwork stitching ...... 94 spool pin ...... Cover B, 19, 25 pattern length ...... 120 start/stop button ...... Cover D, 48 pattern size ...... 119 starting to sew ...... 48 patterns ...... 115 step pattern ...... 121 piecing ...... 94 stitch density ...... 120 piping inserting ...... 89 stitch guide foot ...... Cover A, 64 pocket corners ...... 100 stitch keys ...... Cover E positioning fabric ...... 47 stitch length ...... 56 power supply jack ...... Cover C, 11 stitch selection key ...... Cover E presser foot ...... Cover C, 37 stitch settings ...... 132 presser foot dial ...... Cover C, 39 stitch width ...... 55 presser foot holder ...... Cover C, 39 controlling ...... 98 presser foot lever ...... Cover D storing patterns ...... 123 presser foot pressure ...... 39 straight stitch ...... 132 programmed thread-cutting ...... 58 stretch fabrics ...... 63, 90

Q T quick reference guide ...... Cover A thick fabrics ...... 63

Index 151 APPENDIX — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — thin fabrics ...... 63 thread cutter ...... Cover B, 52 thread cutter button ...... Cover D, 51 thread guide cover ...... Cover B, 20, 26 UTILITY STI SEWING BASICS CONTENTS thread guide discs ...... Cover C, 27 thread guide for bobbin winding ...... Cover B thread guide plate ...... Cover B, 26 thread tension ...... 54 thread tension adjusting ...... 53, 54, 147 thread tension dial ...... 53 thread that quickly unwinds ...... 31 trial sewing ...... 62 triple stretch stitch ...... 100 GETTING READY troubleshooting ...... 142 twin needle ...... Cover A, 28, 36

U upper cover ...... Cover B, 19, 25, 149 upper thread ...... 24 upper thread tension ...... 2, 54 upper threading ...... 2, 24

W walking foot ...... Cover A, 40, 96 wide table ...... 1, 42 wing needle ...... 112

Z zipper stitching ...... 83, 88 TCHES PEDXINDEX APPENDIX

152 English 882-S64 XC5427-051 Printed in Taiwan