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Cultural Reinvention: Design Management for Korean Cultural Textile Products

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Cultural Reinvention: Design Management for Korean Cultural Textile Products Cultural Reinvention: Design management for Korean cultural textile products Meong Jin Shin Submitted in accordance with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Leeds School of Design September 2011 The candidate confirms that the work submitted is her own, except where work which has formed part of jointly-authored publications has been included. The contribution of the candidate and the other authors to this work has been explicitly indicated below. The candidate confirms that appropriate credit has been given within the thesis where reference has been made to the work of others. The candidate has published 4 papers from her thesis and these have been submitted with the thesis. She is the first named author and definitely the main author with all others named being in normal supervisor or adviser roles. All the data collection was carried out by the candidate and the other authors helped with tool design, methodology advice and advice on analysis and interpretation. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without proper acknowledgement. © 2011 The University of Leeds and Meong Jin Shin ii Abstract The subject dealt with in this thesis is to develop design management models for a translation from a traditional cultural product into a modern product to meet a relevant target market. This thesis provides a review of the basic disciplines of culture, cultural product and design management. Attention is focused on the concept of cultural reinvention as an effective design management tool for producing a successful cultural product, which can fit into a contemporary market. The focus of this research describes how to translate Korean traditional bojagi textile products into modern fashion products for young generation consumers. A cultural reinvention model is proposed for Korean traditional bojagi textiles, which includes the design and target marketing strategies and internet marketing for effective communication with target consumers. To understand the target consumer preferences, a colour experiment was conducted among the target consumers for the Korean traditional five colours (“obangsaek”), which are mainly used for bojagi. For using internet marketing, a Korean bojagi website was developed including an interactive bojagi design tool, which is designed through six categories; history, style, patterns, colours, fabrics of the traditional Korean bojagi and the ‘design your own bojagi’ component. It can be utilised for consumer preference, product development and the early promotion of Korean fashion bojagi fabrics. It also opens up an opportunity to be a research tool as an educational web based interface. Five focus group interviews were conducted among the young generation consumers to evaluate the usability and entertainment (enjoyable) values of the Korean bojagi website. Furthermore, to evaluate the commercial value of the fashion bojagi applications, a Korean bojagi sample book was produced and used for interviewing four fashion companies in the UK. The findings and results of the experiment and the interviews are described and the development of each part of the website and applications is explained and illustrated. iii Acknowledgements I wish to express my gratitude to my first supervisor Professor Tom Cassidy for his support, guidance and encouragement during this study. I would also like to thank my second supervisors Ms Edel Moore and Dr Briony Thomas for their advice and support. Thanks must be conveyed to Professor Stephen Westland for his considerable help and advice while I was undertaking this research. My thanks go also to Ju hee Cho and Byung Yong Chung for their guidance and encouragement. I would also like to thank my friends, Myoung Jae Shin, Jin Hui Kim, Ji Yun Yang, Se Na Lee and Joo Young Park, and my colleagues in the School of Design for their support during this research. Finally, my thanks must go to my parents, grandparents and brother’s family for their support and encouragement from the beginning to the final full stop. iv Contents i. Abstract ii. Acknowledgements iii. List of Figures iv. List of Tables v. Papers published from this research Chapter 1: Introduction .............................................................................................. 1 1.1 Background of the study ...................................................................................... 1 1.2 Introducing Korean traditional cultural textile products ......................................... 4 1.3 Aims and objectives ............................................................................................ 9 1.4 Thesis structure ................................................................................................. 10 Chapter 2: Defining the concepts ............................................................................ 12 2.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 12 2.2 Culture .............................................................................................................. 12 2.2.1 Culture as a shared value by society .......................................................... 13 2.2.2 Culture as a symbol of society .................................................................... 15 2.3 Cultural products ............................................................................................... 16 2.3.1 Terminology ................................................................................................ 16 2.3.2 Fashion product as a material culture ......................................................... 18 2.3.3 Cultural value in textile and fashion products .............................................. 19 2.4 Design management ......................................................................................... 20 2.4.1 Terminology ................................................................................................ 20 2.4.2 Design as a planning process ..................................................................... 22 2.4.3 Designing cultural concept into new product ............................................... 23 2.4.4 Design reinvention for cultural textile products ............................................ 25 2.5 Summary ........................................................................................................... 26 v Chapter 3: A case study of Scottish tartan to define cultural reinvention ............ 28 3.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 28 3.2 Tartans in Scotland ........................................................................................... 28 3.2.1 Evolution of Tartan: from the traditional clan tartan ..................................... 30 3.2.2 Evolution of Tartan: Tartan as a fashion pattern.......................................... 32 3.2.3 Modern fashion tartans through cultural reinvention .................................... 34 3.3 The current market situation of tartans .............................................................. 36 3.3.1 The semi-structured interview from Marton Mills ......................................... 36 3.3.2 Using web-interface for design, retailing and promoting .............................. 39 3.4 The concept of cultural reinvention for traditional textile products ...................... 40 3.5 Summary ........................................................................................................... 41 Chapter 4: Cultural reinvention for traditional Korean textile products ............... 43 4.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 43 4.2 Current market situation of Korean cultural products ......................................... 43 4.2.1 Products ..................................................................................................... 43 4.2.2 Prices ......................................................................................................... 45 4.2.3 Distribution .................................................................................................. 46 4.2.4 Promotion ................................................................................................... 47 4.3 The semi-structured interview from the museum of Korean embroidery ............ 47 4.4 A process for producing successful cultural products through cultural reinvention .............................................................................................................. 51 4.4.1 Modernisation and contemporisation for cultural products .......................... 53 4.4.2 Popularisation and globalisation for cultural products ................................. 54 4.5 Cultural reinvention of traditional Korean bojagi textiles ................................... 55 4.5.1 A process of cultural reinvention for Korean traditional bojagi ..................... 55 4.5.2 Design strategy: three options for textle product design .............................. 57 vi 4.5.3 Marketing strategy: three groups for targeted potential consumers ............. 58 4.6 Summary ........................................................................................................... 59 Chapter 5: Colour choices and preferences for Korean traditional colours among the young generation ..............................................................................................
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