WWW.TOWERHAMLETS.GOV.UK 6 THE COMMUNITY NEWSPAPER FOR TOWER HAMLETS PRODUCED BY YOUR COUNCIL In this month’s walk, Graham Barker explores Poplar and old Chinatown, and encounters a fiery Chinese dragon along the way. Photos by Mike Askew. In the footsteps of the dragon BRIGHTEN up a grey and chilly win- Exit the park beside the black wooden ter’s day with a dash of colour. On pavilion and at Poplar High Street head this walk you’ll spot silver trum- right, past the bowling green. Just after pets, a white angel and vibrant Hale Street, cross to Tower Hamlets College murals, wander through green (7) – usually lively with students – and then churchyards and parks, and discov- veer immediately right through a wooden er a mini East End woodland with slatted screen. This takes you on a short snowdrops. woodland walk, brightened with snow- Our walk starts at All Saints DLR station, drops at this time of year. You emerge to in the heart of Poplar. Before heading off on face the Will Crooks arch (8). Crooks was a the main route, it’s worth a quick detour to local trade unionist and MP, noted for cam- All Saints Church (1), built in 1823. So, as you paigning against poverty and inequality. leave the station turn right to Newby Place Keep on the left-hand pavement, past and you’ll soon see the sleek white spire. If shops and school railings. You’ll soon spot a the gates are open, loop around the church white horse (9) on a tall post, at the corner on the circular garden path for a closer look. with Saltwell Street. The White Horse pub Now retrace your steps to the DLR sta- that stood here was home for 36 years to tion. Cross East India Dock Road at the Mary East, a Georgian woman who lived lights and veer left into a small square. apparently as a married man. She over- There’s a good view back to the art deco- came blackmail threats, became a local dig- fronted old Poplar Baths here. And ahead nitary and earned the epitaph ‘Mary East, you’ll see a cluster of upright silver trum- the man-woman of Poplar’. pets next to the blue and green glass of Head straight on, along the paved path Chrisp Street Idea Store (2) – one of four in into Pennyfields, a once-crowded street the borough offering books, DVDs, internet leading to old Chinatown. Local street access, classes and activities. names hereabouts – Ming, Canton and Head along the central pedestrianised Pekin – ring of the Orient, though these walkway between the shops to reach days it’s hard to believe that this was once Chrisp Street Market (3), a place to snap up the heartland of the Chinese community in a bargain, have a coffee or pop to the loo. The Angel memorial in Poplar Park London. Chinatown flourished from the After a browse around, go left past the post erected in memory of 18 schoolchildren 1860s to 1940s – with restaurants, laun- office and left again along Kerbey Street killed in the first daylight air raid on dries and the occasional opium den – until back to the main road. London in June 1917 dispersed by street widening schemes and On the right-hand corner, skirt around Blitz bombing. the former George Green’s School (4), now playground, raised grass spiral and plane As you emerge on to West India Dock part of Tower Hamlets College specialising trees – towards Canary Wharf towering in Road turn right – heading towards St in financial education. George Green was a the distance. Anne’s Church tower in the distance. Just prosperous Poplar shipbuilder who used As you walk, you get a fine view of St before the Oporto pub, cross via a series of his wealth to establish sailors’ homes, Matthias Church (6). The East India crossings, and continue onwards. Soon almshouses and several schools. This one, Company – wealthy from importing tea, you’ll encounter Dragons’ Gate (10), a pair with its ornate brickwork, was built in 1884 spices, indigo and silk – built their compa- of lustrous metallic dragons on high. and the projecting blue clock added in 1928. ny chapel here in 1654. Much of what we “Biting each other’s tails, they embody the Head over the pedestrian crossing, turn now see is Victorian, but the interior is power and unity of renewal” explains the right and just beyond the bus stop enter most remarkable – one of only three plaque underneath. Poplar Park (5). churches built during Oliver Cromwell’s After several more side streets you reach By the circular garden the hauntingly Commonwealth. Outside, there are well- Beccles Street. On the corner is the Sailors’ beautiful Angel Memorial commemorates preserved headstones with nautical Palace (11), built in 1901 for the British & 18 schoolchildren killed in June 1917 during motifs. Silver cut-out wall disks, created by Foreign Sailors’ Society and now a housing the first daylight air raid on London. Keep community groups, mark the Poplar association. The figurehead holding two on the main path – past the adventure Heritage Trail. ships, each blown by a cherub, forms one of the finest art nouveau facades in the East locked, in which case backtrack to Three look out for the Limehouse Gallery tucked End. Colt Street, skirt left around the railings on away in the corner and the Limehouse Escape the traffic by heading left along Commercial Road and turn first left into Accumulator (13) brick tower, built in 1869 Three Colt Street and then through St Newell Street. to provide hydraulic power for cranes and Anne’s churchyard (12). Outside the church gateway, head locks in the basin. Keep by the water’s edge, As you curve around Nicholas straight on, over cobbles and follow the sloping down as you go, for a closer view of Hawksmoor’s impressive church, look back sign to Limehouse Basin. Step down to the boats and birdlife. to the terracotta-fronted former Limehouse Cut – a straight section of canal As you curve round, you’ll come to a Limehouse Church Institute. A curious connecting Limehouse Basin with the wavy suspension bridge (14) spanning the stone pyramid, beyond the church steps, is River Lea – and follow it left under the DLR entrance lock and weir of Regent’s Canal. inscribed with the Wisdom of Solomon bridge. Cross over and the wide driveway ahead and was originally intended to top off the Cross over the second footbridge, just as takes you to Limehouse DLR, the end of our church tower. the canal widens out into the basin, enjoy- walk. Leave St Anne’s through the main gates. ing the great two-way view as you go. Now With thanks to Rachel Maile for tri- Occasionally you may find the gates follow the dockside round. Along the way, alling this walk. This pair of metallic dragons can be spotted at Dragon’s Gate St Matthias Community Centre, with Poplar Park adventure along West India Dock Road playground in the foreground A figurehead over the door at the Sailors’ Palace Silver trumpets outside Idea Store Chrisp Street.