--PRINCIPAL CONTENTS

Cycle to Carlingford An Englishman Remembers Inns, Old and New Waters of Connemara Poems are Best Guides Wicklow's Famous Road Fishing While You Sleep

- Fellowship of the Road at Killarney All ready for a Sail at Sutton, Co.

VOL. XVIII. No. 8. MAY, 1943 THREEPENCE No ·...... ,.. ",..,..,•. ".,.....".,....."...."" ....,."." ..,.. """"''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''1 DUBLIN

* BANK OF IRELAND N ESTABLISHED 1783

FACILITIES FOR TRAVELLERS AT

Head Office: COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN S BELFAST CORK .. DERRY

AND 100 TOWNS THROUGHOUT IRELAND .. Where North meets South"

PHONE: DUBLIN 71371 (6 Lines) EVERY DESCRIPTION OF FOREIGN EXCHANGE BUSINESS TRANSACTED Resident Manager T. O'Sullivan

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Everything to satisfy the most exacting connoisseur is provided. Coal fires in all public rooms; after­ noon tea, 3-6; liberal table; excel­ lent cooking and service; a pleasant and informal atmosphere. Centrally situated. with moderate terms. Visit the Restaurant next time you're BE FAMOUS FOR FOOD lunching in town. -.A. eQU/RE a reputation lor tire excellence 0/ "ollr cu.isitJe. It is the certain mean.s of extending h"siHess ill. all o/her d~­ partmeuts. and thus itlcrea .... ill~ ,'Orty profits. Your flitchi'll i.~ the focal Point tvhere food Sert';Cll .:ommence.l> n'e Jrfl't'e helped 1Halts of tire leadifJl! hotels a,ul restaurants to overcome d;/lieu/fI e." so that their service has remailled ""'impaired. £t'ell. i,,~prot'l!d. despite fhe emer1!enc)'. Ju mall)1 U'll)'S U'C can. hel/> ,'01'" Gi't'e Tt." a call to·da,·. We will gladI,· slIbmit a ph",. Phone 75648/9

• KITCHEN ENGINEERS •

H. EVANS & SONS DUBLIN 152 CAPEL STREET, DUBLIN _O'Keefte's••••••••••••••••••••• U'Keett'-'s SUBSCRIPTION: Wholesale from the Irish Tourist Association 5/. PER ANNUM and from (Post Free) • IRISH Easoo & Soo. Ltd. COPIES FREE TO ALL • MEMBERS OF THE ASSOCIATION AND Retail from all News· OF ITS ASSOCIATE agents aod from the DEPARTMENT TRAV'El Irish Tourist Association Official Organ 01 the Irish Tourist Association and 01 the Irish Hotels Federation

VOL. XVIII. MAY. 1943 No. 8 NOTES AND NEWS tT.A. QUESTION TIME PROGRAMMES. A BUNDORAN SUMMER PLAN. A Series of Question Time programmes sponsored Bundoran Tourist Development Association has by the Irish Tourist Association will be broadcast arranged a scheme by which visitors can be met by from the following centres from May 2nd onward. a member on arrival and given introductions and May-2nd. Arklow; 16th, Kilkee; 23rd, Castlebar; information towards the pleasure of their stay. A 30th. Ballybunion. June-6th, Enniscrone; 13th, letter in advance to the Hon. Secs. of the Associ~ Salthill; 20th, Tramore; 27th. r------. ation at Bundoran will be Lisdoonvarna. July - 4th. welcomed and visitors desir~ Bundoran; 11th, Crosshaven. RATIONS FOR VISITORS ing to take advantage of the FROM PLACES OUTSIDE EIRE offer are advised to write re bookings. etc., for the months WEXFORD RE· MAKES HISTORY The attention of I.T.A. Members is directed June to September. " Kelly, the Boy from Kill~ to the Government Notice which appeared in the Press (14/41'43) with reference to Rations anne" is to be commemorated for temporary visitors arriving from places re~ on June 6th by a vivid outside Eire. "A LITTLE TRIP TO IRELAND" construction of the ambush Briefly the new order provides that " Folks. I need not tell you on the old road from Tagh~ (a) If the visitor remains here for a period to buy war bonds; the more mon to Wexford in which of from 5 to 12 days a FOOD RATION you buy, the sooner this war Kelly's men trapped the CARD is available enabling the holder will be over, and then we can Meath militia and captured to obtain tea and sugar. take a little trip to Ireland." their artillery in 1798. L.D.F. (b) If the visitor remains for a period of co~ from 12 days to 6 months a SPECIAL So says the Irish World of and other forces will RATION BOOK is available enabling operate to make the re~con~ New York in a recent issue. the holder to obtain tea and sugar. The It is a pleasant and practical struction at once a historic Ration Book will be valid for a period re~creation and a useful tacti~ of three months and application for re­ thought to sweeten a bitter newal for a further period can be made time. cal exercise for the troops if necessary. engaged. The event will be (c) Application for Ration Cards or Books opened by a procession from shouldJ be made to the Carda Station MAY EVENTS. Wexford to the scene of the nearest the place where the visitor is conflict. staying. May events include:­ Visitors affected by this order may go direct R.acing: 5, Phoenix Park; 6. to a Shopkeeper for their supplies, or if they Clonmel; 8, Naas; 15. Phoe~ 100 MILES TO THE GALLON. are staying in an Hotel or Guest House should nix Park; 20. Limerick Junc~ hand the Card or Book to the Proprietor or Henry J. Kaiser of the other responsible official who will detach the tion; 22, Curragh ( 1.200 Boulder Dam and other big coupons, and use them in the same manner as GUineas); 29. Phoenix Park. American schemes of war·· coupons taken from General Ration Books. Golf: 5~8. Clontarf (Dublin); time building has prophesied. Our Belfast office will advise potential visitors 11. Dollymount; 13 ~ 15. after the war. "an automobile of this arrangement, but the management of Grange. Rathfarnham; 15, Hotels and Guest Houses should also take the that will weigh less than half precaution of notifying guests (from places out­ Woodbrook; 16. Borris of the present models and side Eire) when confirming their bookings. (Carlow); Birr; 17. Milltown will travel 100 miles to the (Dublin); 22. Dun Laoghaire; gallon." At the same time we 23, Carlow; 26~29. Hermi~ hear of plans for £35 return Air crossings-U.S.A.j tage (Dublin); 29, Dollymount; 29 ~ 30, Naas. Europe. So a golfing week~end on an Irish or other Patterns: 3, Annascaul (Kerry); 16, Lavey (Cavan). links is becoming more than a possibility for the New Other Events: 5~8, R.D.S. Spring Show; 10~15, Yorker. Feis Ceoil: 17~24. Maritime Week, Dublin. 122 IRISH TRAVEL May. 1943 CALL BACK THE TRAVELLER A Plague of Cockchafers in Connaught attention of all who are interested in old Limerick. The square tower of the,. cathedral is 120 feet high. N 1688. swarms of cockchafers, borne on a south­ The story of the peal of bells in the tower runs thus: west wind, descended on Connaught. They I worked their way north-eastward as far as Head­ When the world was some centuries younger. fort. Multitudes of them showed themselves among there lived on the Arno. near Florence, one Paolo the trees and hedges in the day-time, hanging by the Campanaro. who excelled his contemporaries in the boughs, thousands together in cll1sters, sticking to art of bell-founding. After a youth spent in industry the back one of another, as is the manner of bees he resolved to settle down to an age of ease, but when they swarm. In this posture, or lying still and before he retired from the exercise of his craft. he covert under the leaves of the trees, or clinging to the wished to give some sign of thankfulness for his branches, they continued quiet with little or no motion success i life. for during the heat of the sun, but towards evening or Paolo is pious and grateful, and vows as he kneels sunset, they would all rise, disperse, and fly about at her shrine, with a strange humming noise, much like the beating To offer some fruit of his iabour to Mary the of drums at some distance, and in such vast in­ Mother benign; . credible numbers that they darkened the air for the Eight silver-toned bells w'ill he offer to toll for the space of two or three miles square.... quick and the dead, A short while after their coming, they had so en­ From the tower of the church of her convent that tirely eat up and destroyed all the leaves of the trees stands on the cliff overhead. for some miles round about, that the whole country, though it was in the middle of summer, was left as The self-imposed task was duly accomplished, and bare and naked as if it had been in the depth of an interval of peaceful retirement in the life of the winter, making a most unseemly, and indeed, fright­ bell-founder was succeeded by the outbreak of a ful appearance; and the noise they made. whilst they fierce war. His wife, Francesca. and their children were seizing and devouring their prey, was as sur­ fell victims, and the bells were borne away-none prising; for the grinding of the leaves in the mouths knew whither. Campanaro became a wanderer in of this vast multitude all together. made a sound search of his cherished bells, and in the course of his very much resembling the sawing of timber. pilgrimage, took passage in a ship bound for Ireland. Having arrived in the Shannon, PIGS GREW FAT. Twixt Cratloe's blue hills and green woods, and Numbers of them, crawling about in the houses, the soft sunny shores of Tervoe, were very irksome, and they would often drop on the And now the fair city of Limerick spreads out on meat, as it was dressing in the kitchen, and frequently the broad bank below;. fall from the ceiling of the rooms into the dishes as Still nearer and nearer approaching the mariners they stood on the table. so extremely offensive and look o'er the town, loathsome were they, as well as prejudicial and des­ The old man sees nought but St. Mary's square tructive. Nor did the mischievous effects of this tower with its battlements brown. pernicious vermin stop here. their numerous creeping He listens-as yet all is silent, but now, with a spawn. which they had lodged underground next the sudden surprise, . upper sod of the earth, did more harm in that close A rich peal of melody rings from that tower retirement than all the flying swarms of their parents through the clear evening skies! had done abroad; those lying underground fell One note is enough-his eye moistens, his heart, a-devouring the roots of the corn and the grass. and, long so withered, outswells, eating them up, ruined both the support of man and He has found them-the sons of his labours-his beast; for these losing their roets came to nought, musical, magical bells. to the vast damage of the country. The pigs and At each stroke all the bright past returneth, around poultry, however, devoured the cockchafers and grew him the sweet Arno shines, fat upon them, and the poorer sort of the native Irish His children-his darling Francesca-his purple­ (the country then labouring under a scarcity of pro­ clad trellis of vines! vision) had a way of dressing them and lived upon Leaning forward he listens, he gazes, he hears In them as food. that wonderful strain, Thoma~ The long silent voices that mu.rmur, .. Oh leave us (Dr>. Molyneux's (F.R.S.) lette7' to the Bishop not, father, again! .. of CI08he7', quoted in Boate's Natu7'al Histo7'Y)· oris granted, he smiles, his eye closes, the breath from his white lips has fled; The Bells of St. Mary's Cathedral, Limerick The father has gone to his children, the old Cam· panaro is dead! St. Mary's Cathedral and King John's Castle, Limerick, are almost contemporary erections, and (" Through The Green Isle "-G.S.R. after an existence of 700 years they still divide the Railway GUide, 1896).

• Curiosities around Ireland

CASTLE AMONG THE SHOPS THE• WONDERFUL BARN Ancient Ca.tle, now a Dwell g.hou.e, in a .treet in Ca.hel, Co. Tipperary. A curio.ity of architecture at Maynooth, Co. Kildare.

SLAUGHTER IN LIMERICK SALMON GO UP BY THE LIFT Wood-carving of Lion .Iaying Dragon in St. Mary's Cathedral, Limerick. Here i. E.S.B. current by which fi.h paa.ing up the Shannon are counted. AI.o electric lifu to hoi.t the fi.h when caul'ht. I.f"·..;;;;....~; ....~~'~'w~';~,· WHEN IN THE WEST STAY AT STAY AT Connacht's Leading Hotel Forster ark R. I. EGLINTON A. Hotel c. On PROMENADE HOTEL SALTHILL • Bus to Door

,Galway H." C. all Bedrooms. New Lounge Bar

Phon.: SALTHILL 49 J. J. CHEEVERS, Telephone No. SALTHILL 2S Grams; "PARI, GALWAY." Proprietor

""'111111"1111"1"111'11111'1111'111111111111111"'11111'111111"1111"""'111111"'1111111111111'1111111"Ill"'; ;11 •• 1""'••••• ,••••••••'.1 •• 1.,••1." ••••• ,.11 ••••••"'1"1'11"""""""'1'11"""""""""""'11'" ••••••~

• 1111.11 11 1•••11.11111111•••111 •••••••'11 11 ..11.111 ••11111 11 _:::~ ~:•••••, I I ••••••, ••• I 1•••, ••••••• , ••••••• , . • CARNA, CONNEMARA. CO. GAl.WAY ING LONG···· or just for a few days. you'll STAY find this botel witb its splendid situation facing the s~a. is the last word in comfort. cui~ine and at. MONGAN'S HOTEL tendance. Newly reconstructed and redecorated. it is ulIder entirply ...:::::::: new manacpment

.'1" 1111.111 11'••,11.1111•••••••••••1••, 1.11.11••• , •• 1111 ••111,.1••111,••• 11 ••••••••••••, ••••••••••~ :, i= r·liEI'LLY~'S"'''H'OT'EL'''''~~~;~~i~:''~~~~~£''~:::::.I::· LT.A. HOLIDAY COMPETITION, 1943 Lal'lle Bunllalowl on Hotel Ground.. 'aolnlllea. Bara"ll 'l::um. on FI,.t·ol... Cullln.. leparat. Tabl.. Full, L10enud .Jlpp/icalion ENTRY COUPON H, a c. all Bedroom.. Bathlnll 'rom Hotel Crounds 10 • ..,. Sol' L1na and T.nll Courts. BUI ..- Door 'Proprio/reM I wish to enter above Competition according to the ;;. 1•• ,•••••••••••1••••• ".1 11 •• 1.1 ••••••,•••• "•••••,••••,.1•••••1••••••• 'I""~ conditions set out and I shall accept as final the decision of the judges appointed by the LT.A. in con­ .., " . nection with the Competition. Name of Entrant __ . Kincora Hotel, Salthill POltaJ Addre.._ .. FULLY LICENSED OMFORTABLE AND CENTRAL. BUI StoPI at Door

,.. ~ No. of ENTRIES enclC?sed Section 1.. _ _. HOTE'L~"OUG·HTERARD""::~:.:::.i Section 11 . ."'cOIi'R'IB.. If a fee is enclosed to cover return of entries by Premi.r AD,liD' CeDtre lor Lou,h Corrib registered post state here nature and amount of same Fully LiceD.ed, H. I!f C.•11 Bedroom.. Electric Li,bt throu,hout T OUllhterBl'd 4 ...... 11.1 •• 1•••, 1.11.1 •••••••••••• 1 1•••••• 11.'1111••••••••1•••• 1,.,••1•• 1••••• 1•• 11 •••••••,••• '."'.'!

r May, 1943 IRISH TRAVEL 125 PRIZES FOR HOLIDAY· MAKERS Improving our Tourist Highways VARIETY OF SUBJECTS TRAVEL'S BEST SELLERS IN I.T.A. COMPETITION y a majority of twelve votes to five the Wicklow Two Prizes, each of £5, £.3, £2, and Ten County Council recently passed a resolution • Consolation Prizes of 10/. each B thereby deciding to earmark £2,000 for two years as a contribution from the Council funds and HESE cash Prizes are offered by the IRISH thus qualifying for a Government grant of £92,000 TOURIST ASSOCIATION for the best entries of to reconstruct the 14 miles of road from Hollywood T the subjects (a), (b) and (c) stated below. to Glendalough. It is surprising, nevertheless, that Competitors will be divided in two sections, and the in a tourist country like Wicklow five public repre~ prizes specified are offered in each category-that is sentatives can be found to vote against such a a total of £25. laudable and beneficial project. SECT/ON I.-Confined to Members and Assoc~ T~e Council's majority vote in this instance de­ ciate Members of the I.T.A., Members of Holiday serves the warmest commendation. Their action is Savings Clubs, Cycling Clubs, and An Oige. of much more than local significance. It marks th~ growing consciousness of the importance of the SECTION n.-Open to the General Public. development of tourist scenic roads of which this Competitors are invited to submit:- hitherto fragment1lry section of the old Military r.oad across the mid~Wicklow mountains is a pre~eminent (a) An Essay (of not more than 500 words) under example. By the re~conditioning of this section over the title of .. My Irish Holiday, 1943," or the Wicklow Gap, a 70~80 miles circular route from (b) A Short Story or anecdote relating any amuS~ Dublin will be first class going through some of the ing or unusual incident experienced, or an account finest hill scenery, not only in Ireland, but, without of any .. curiosity," strange custom, etc., observed exaggeration, in the world. during your holidays. The Government's generous provision in this case (c) A Photograph taken during your holidays. will stimulate the hope that many other of our sight­ This should depict some characteristic aspect of IrIsh seeing routes, as yet imperfectly exploited, will get Life and have some relation to Holidays, Recreation, like consideration. For example, the proposed new Sightseeing, etc. Not more than three photos may be Wexford-Rosslare road, the incomparable Ring of entered by any competitor, and, if enlargements, must Kerry circuit, the Dingle Peninsula, the west Clare not exceed lOins. x 8 ins. unmounted. The title of coastal route, the Connemara, Achill and Donegal the picture and name and address of competitor must routes, when re-made in their defective sections, wJl1 be written on the back of the print. In the event of be the best investment in the national sense.. Many any photograph being awarded a prize of £5, £3, or other regions come to mind where, if schemes similar £2, it is a condition that the winner shall surrender the to that for Wicklow were now embarked on, alluring negative and the copyright to the Irish Tourist highways would open up for the tourist and holiday~ Association. maker when a peaceful world takes to the road again. Their development will put Ireland on a level with General Instructions and Conditl'ons. Switzerland, Italy and the other famous travel Prizes will be awarded for the entries which, in the countries which recognised many years ago that a opinion of the Adjudicators, deserve to be placed 1st, good tourist road is the surest best-seller in the inter­ 2nd, etc., in order of merit. Entries in (a), (b) or (c), national travel market. carry equal marks. An entry of each of the three The good news of the Wicklow scheme has subjects may be submitted. but not more than one aroused general interest, and local pOSSibilities are prize shall be aWiJrded to any competitor. being discussed everywhere. Members of the Irish Successful competitors in Section I must, if re~ Tourist Association, particularly, are concerned in qUired, furnish evidence of Membership of one of the the question which has often been brought up at the organisations mentioned. Association's meetings, and no doubt the Local Entries close on Saturday, October 2nd, 1943, and Authorities will lose no time in urging the claims of results will be published in the November issue of their respective resorts. We hope to hear from .. Irish TraveL" The Adjudicators' decision will be many of them on the matter and shall be glad to final. Entries cannot be returned unless accompanied publish any useful comment in .. Irish Travel." by a stamped addressed envelope. •.••,1······" •••• "." •••••"••••••"•• , ,11 ••••••• ' ,'I ,I.,III., , ,.,I· E Entries must be accompanied by a special" Entry ~ Coupon" which will appear in each monthly issue of Airedale Heavy Duty Cast Aluminium .. Irish Travel .. from May to September, 1943. Address your entries to: .. Holiday Competitions," ·HOLLOW WARE'II'I IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION, 14 Up. O'Connell St., I Is best for Hotels I I Dublin. (Coupon on page 124). ., , , u ,.S - *** --

The Spa offers you a really complete holiday amid glorious country surroundings, yet only 9 miles from the heart of Dublin. Free Golf and Tennis. Spa and Electrical treatment by fully qualified staff. SPA HOTEL LUCAN. Co. DUBLIN. PHONE: LUCAN 28 Made at the Sunshine Factory of P. KAVANAGR '" SONS. CrnmliD Rd. DnbliD

HOTEL LENEHAN ~"IIIIIII"IIIII"I"llIlIlIlIllIt"'11I1UIIIIIIIII"IIIIIII'"IIIIIIIIIII'11I1I1111111111..111111111111 ..111111111" (MISS LENEHAN, Proprietress) Te~phone No. 52043 GRILL ROOM 24-25 HARCOURT STREET .. DUBLIN ! MOIRA HOTEL RESTAURANT Noted for Moderate Terms and CoocI Catering. BAR BUFFET 1::::_ TRINITY STREET, DUBLIN Centrally situated: convenient to all places of interest. Meals OYSTBR BAR served to Non·Residents. Bus service to and from door to all A la Carle anJ Table J'Hale Meal. stations and places of interest. ReJlauranl Open SunJay. Tel. 44559 SMOKE LOUNGE

HOT AND COLD WATER IN BEDROOMS. GARAGE :;.,••••11 ••••11 ••••'11.111••••••••1111•••••••, •••• 111 •••,11 1111•••••11.11••••11 1,••II'r.

...... _ , :"1111111.111111 11111111111111111111111.11'1 DUBLIN 1IIIIIIIIu ,IIII .. ;; Phone: CI5U Grams: ..No r, Dulllln', ! ~ AMIENS STREET HOTEL PELLETIER ;; NORTH STAR HOTEL (Opposite G.N.R. Terminus) 21-22 HARCOURT STREET, DUBLIN ~ i FULLY LICEN5KD. 150 IIIDROOMS. MOST CENTRAL POSITION COMFORT REITAURANT A I. Carte end ERY CENTRAL POSITION. GARAGE. HOT AND COLD I:::: ;; * CLEANLlNEII COFFEE ROOM TaIIl. d'Hote M..ls WATER IN ROOMS. ELECTRIC FIRES. TERMS ;; CIVILITY 1IIOIING LOUNGE MODERATE. Phone 515201. Apply to the Proprietress ~ Restaurant Open on lunll.,s For Tarf" app'u Mancqrer "'11'11'11"""11"".""."1".".'1""1"""""'1111111••lllt••I.I'IIIII.II••IIII.II.II.I.III"."'••••11,Ir ;'11••1'•••••1•••••••1 1•••••11.1 •••••• , ••••• 1•••••••• 1••1 •• , ••••••••1 .

...... 1111 11111 11 111 I II III I III I ..t ' IIIIII.IIII II.1I U ..IIII.IIIIII.II.II.II IIII .. HADDINGTON HOUS'E DUN LAOGHAIRE Phone: 815181

HOTEL AND "THE HOME OF COMFORT BRASSERIE AND GOOD CHEER" . FULLY LICENSED Resident Proprietrell: Mill FIANCES LOWlY

...... 1 11 N , ••t •••••, •••••t •••••• , ••, n'.r 11 .. May, 1943 IRISH TRAVEL 127 There is an Inn where they put in DUELS AND JORUMS c:> By R. J. BENNETT

COUPLE of years ago Cl Dublin licensed Tavern, York Hotel, Strand House Inn, from which premises, still doing business, was referred to it is easy to guess by what class they were supported A. as being not only the first in Dublin to get a and patronised. The Black Lion in Pound Street Itcence, but as being a hiding~place of Robert Emmett was famous because a certain Major Hillas slept and his companions some years later. It has been there the night before he was shot dead in a duel. said more than once that many who left the deepest mark on the life of Dublin-from Mangan to Griffith A duel in an inn in the town of Tuam did not end a.nd Kettle-delighted to drop into inns. In them so disastrously, as the Clare Journal of April 8th. Itterary, artistic and political groups met, dined, and 1779, records it:-" Duel. Last night between formed plans for the future. Hyacinth Kirwan and Mr. Robert Darcy in one of the rooms, about five yards long, of the Mitre Inn, From a hostelry in Thomas Street, Dublin, the Tuam. Darcy's coat shot through. No other dam~ ~ail~coaches for Connaught used to set out, until, age." That Mitre Inn occupied the site where now ~n 1791, James Power, the proprIetor, converted his the Odeon cinema stands in Tuam. ~nn into a distillery. So the great Power whiskey Industry was established, starting with an annual out­ THE FOOD WAS ALWAYS GOOD. p~t of 60,000 gallons of Irish potstill. Thackeray seldom had a good word for the inn~ To go further back in the 18th century, let us keepers, but he admits at least that the food was sWitch to the Midlands. In William Bulfln's good, in some cases. "In one place," said he, " at .. Rambles in Erin," the author describes a visit to what is supposed to be the best inn, the dinner was the presumed .. Sweet Auburn" with its .. Three plentiful, but uneatable, spread in a room filled with Jolly Pigeons" inn. Naturally Bulfin found that it choking turf~smoke:' In Dublin, however, he was Was not the original inn but one that took the name pleased with the .. copious breakfasts, plentiful of the old house which stood a little distance away. dinners, and tea, coffee and cakes in abundance:' The original ale~house may be the one celebrated in .. In Sligo" Thackeray adds, " Lord Sligo established the song ,~ung by Tony Lumpkin in " She Stoops to one of the prettiest, comfortablest inns in Ireland, Conquer :- stocking cellars with good wines, filling the house Then come put the jorum about, with neat furniture, and lending, it is said, the whole And let us be merry and clever, of it to the landlord, gratis, on condition that he Our hearts and our liquors are stout, should keep the house warm, furnish the larder, and Here's the Three Jolly Pigeons for ever! entertain the traveller." Many people say that this snug inn cannot have There are modern inns that make a new tradition. been an Irish one of the 18th century. But surely Lynn Doyle, in .. The Spirit of heland," describes a there were Protestant inn~keepers who could hold on Dublin one in which" once a year, and for an hour and keep good houses without fear of the Penal laws? -an hour Olympian and timeless-the proprietor closes his door against the profane vulgar and keeps JEMMY BLOWS THE FIRE. open house for poets:' So here's health to the living customers, and peace to those that .. rapped and A hundred years qgo Alfred M'Farland, a called " before! romantic traveller, discov~red a delightful interior in a Wicklow inn. "It lies," said he, .. by the big toe of Carriglineen; the main road passes the door; in the rear are a young pine wood and the track of a noisy stream. As I entered the Travellers' room, an elderly matron was telling her beads; on the following morning she selected a corner of the garden for the purpose; those of us who mingle with the busy world can hardly' estimate the simple faith of a secluded Woman. Even Jemmy Cavanagh, the waiter, has caught the solemn influence, and receives your orders with closed heels and downcast eyes, Oxford greys and a coat of Quaker trim. But,' Jemmy, my boy, down on your knees and give it a whiff: And solemn Jemmy blows up the peat fire till the sparks are in his hair." The Sligo town hostelries had fine~soundingnames -the Spinning Wheel, King's Arms, Masonic Three Jolly Pigeons Inn "•• llll••••• ""'""""'"'I" ..'I""'•••••,••••••,••, 1.1.'•• '••••• 1••••• 1'•• ' 1.'I.I' U••,..,..," 'I ,'•• I•••• I••••• 1•• 1•• 1.11 ~

Ideal Centre Phone: Glenbeigh No. 4 THE Gram.: Glenbeigh Hotel G. S. RAILWAY for Touring Glenbeigh Station Cork 78 mUes the Kingdom HOTEL GLENBEIGH Dublin _ 210 miles LICENSED. FREE GARAGE. EXTENSIVE GROUNDS of Kerry! PRIVATE AVENUE (250 Yard.) FROM STATION TO HOTEL I.T.A.. A.A.• R.I.A.C.

SUB~TROPICAL GARDENS-In the midst of delightful Mountain Scenery, Lakes and Sea. BATHING-Finest and Safest Surf Bathing at Rossbeigh Beach. GOLF LINKS-Dooks, 9 Holes. FISHING-Excellent Salmon and Sea Trout Fishing on Behy River and Lakes Caragh and Coomasaharn and 4! miles on west side Lower Caragh River. Free to our Guests.

EXTENSIVE. GOOD. ROUGH SHOOTING. RIDING STABLES MAINTAINED

--A.A. EVANS'S TOWERS HOTEL, GLENBEIGH R.I.A.C. Boating. Fishinll. Shooting. Golf at Dooks. Sea Bathing at Rossbeil1h Strand. 11 THOMAS G. EVANS DeU~htful Mountain Scenery. Electric Light. Hot and Cold Running Water. Proprietor i ~ I I ..I II IIII I III 1 1 ..11 111 11 111111111 1111 11.11111 1111 1 ..

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\ . IN THE NEWS~LIGHT

Dublin'. famou. Bridge, croned often by the 15.000 Ea.ter "invadera" of the 1943 holiday army from the North.

Power.court, .oon to be in the (Film) war. when•the battle of Agincourt i. to be re-fought there. Spend WHIT at- THE STRAND HOTEL ROSSLARE STRAND CO. WEXFORD

One of the best and most comfortable CURRACLOE seaside Hotels in Ireland STRAND HOTEL Co. WEXFORD Beautifully .itualed ooerlooking Ihe Sea. Two mlnules' walk 10 Beach Beautifully situated in the Sunny FULLY LICENSED. EXCELLENT CATERING. PERSONAL South-East. near Railway Station. SUPERVISION: MODERATE TARIFF. FREE GARAGE Splendid Golf Links. Three Tennis Courts. Croquet Lawn. Putting A Holiday Home! • Greens. Table Tennis. Darts and THE STRAND HOTEL has a splendid reputation. Ita service. food and accommodation are excellent. It is recommended by Billiards. Hotel Cinema all who have enjoyed its comforts as a thoroughly reliable boliday home. Tbe menu includes seasonable food of the choicest quality. perfectly cooked and punctually served. The accommodation is comfortable and with all modem conveniences. FAMOUS FOR EXCELLENT Standing in its own grounds in the midst of charming country­ CUISINE AND CHOICE WINES side, overlooking six miles of silvery unbroken strand. Restful, peaceful and quiet, far removed from the hectic rush and buzzing whirl of the city and town, yet only seven miles bus run from Wexford. Here Is the Ideal place for a real holiday, a tonic Hot and Cold Sea Water Baths for yc>ur health. free from the noise and modernism a.soclated with SO many present-day seaside places. Curracloe. with Its haunting beauties, Is the retired and Irreslstihle resort for you. Phone: Wires: 16, Ro.a1ar•• Kelly Strand, Ro••lare. PHONE: WEXFORD 105

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6 .... 11 •••••••11.111111111111.1111 •• 1111111 ••••11.' ••'1111111'1111111'1111"1"11111""11111'1"1111111'11111"11111111111"'1'111111111111'111111111111"11111111I'"II,UIIIIIIIIIIIIII11111'1111""11111111"IIIIIIII1IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII1111!l An Englishman Remembers Irish Holidays "A LAND TO RETURN TO"

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N the heart of many Englishmen who knew Ire~ city, but the generosity of the offering from a poor land before the war, desire is strengthening to hillside cabin rejected any reward but the most I see the country again when Peace returns. To gracious thanks. see the soft freshness of Ireland and to meet again a people who charmed those of us who knew them in happier times .... that can be a peace aim. "VENETIAN CORK AND CLASSIC DUBLIN." France we loved for her cities, England for our homes Ireland and the Irish have an instinct for gener~ and historic towns, but Ireland for her green country~ oSity-that is at least my kindliest memory. It Side and a charming way of life that defeated the happened to me on another occasion when my wife universal enemy. Time. It is some ten years since and I were drenched in a downpour on Howth Head. I was last in Ireland for any length of stay. After Friendly women who did not know us made -it that I had one brief week~end visit. possible to regain comfort before we ate their Memories of the country come crowding in my appetising tea of soda bread and cakes. mind after impressions of more famous spots on the There was a train journey to Galway when all Continent have fled. Perhaps memory is imperfect, across the belly of Ireland I found myself watching but it compensates for vagueness by vividness. First a landscape watered by the" soft, sweet" rain. And I can see Glengariff, a fertile head to the calm water then the city of Galway with the old ruins and the that flows in from Bantry Bay beneath bleak moors bracing expanse of the bay on one side and Lough and hills. It is summer and the divers are swooping Corrib on the other. I remember again the friendly into the sea from an island in the sunny bay. How loan of a "bike" made for an Irish· giant. Saddte~ clear that water seemed to me and how far from the sore, I slipped from side to side as I pedalled within world it was. view of the jewelled greenness of Connemara across There was Killarney before that. with a murmuring the lake. heaviness of the August air and starlit beauty after Avoca and a ruffled lake at Glendalough and, by the sun had flamed its way to rest. The Irish hills a sudden leap of the mind. the winding beauty of the and mountains always seemed to follow gracdul water highway from Cobh to Cork. The night bont curves. But my main impression of Killarney \vas du~ty from Dublin to Liverpool. sailing beneath Howth arriving there late at night after a roug? and Head, with that most wistful music of shipborhe bus ride. to find my hotel full of a laughmg, dancmg singers coming faintly over the water. In these crowd, celebrating a local saint's day. Ireland lives on amid the turmoil of war. It is a land In the hills of County Cork I recall the rustic. to remember from Venetian Cork to classic Dublin hospitality that offered me milk. somewhat weaker and the wild west. It is a land to return to when the than anything that would be permitted for sale in a world can get back to peace and holidays.

"''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''U''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''';~;'''''''''''''''''"'"""""'"""'""'".",,,,"',,,..,,"',,,"'.."''''''"'''"""""""''''''''''''''''''''"""'"''''"'''''''''''''{ I MUNSTER & LElNSTER BANK Ltd. -- -- -'i i Head Office: 66 SOUTH MALL, CORK i • 208 BRANCH.. AND 8UB-BRANCHII!. : ComprehensiveBANKING & FOREIGN EXCHANGE Service DUBLIN BRANCHES: DAME STREET O'CONNBLL STREET GRAFTON STREET • BAGGOT STREET PHIBSBORO PEMBROKE i INCHICORE RATHGAR DRUMCONDRA E DONNYBROOK RATHFARNHAM. CRUMLlN Head Office

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(1) Canoe on the Shannon, Athlone

(2) "They're Off" at Killarney

(3) Family Fisbing on ClOliee Lake

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(4) The Bike goes Everywhere

(5) Open-Air Baths, Cork (6) Pilgrimage to Doon Well, Donegal

(7) "All's Well" is LisdooDvarna'• Motto

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AA., R.I.A.C. cS I.T.A. App. The Hotel i••ituatea in an unrivan.a po.ition lacing aue lOuth••tanaing in it. own grouna. k~~~ JOHN OAlY &~~: overlooI.ing T ramore Bay Hot and Cold Water in all Bedrooms ~ I~, K;;L;SdQ~riAt'~ii~K Luxurious Lounges and Smokerooms RECREATION HALL FOR BADMINTON DECK TENNIS, DANCING, ETC. HARD _~~~ TENNIS COURT IN HOTEL GROUNDS L-__.... Fo' .ho but 0' o..",hl•••ho. should be stocked by the first. FREE GARAGE. LlCENIED. PRIVATE CAR PARI ':::~ I class Hotelier. You will not be Wrl,. for Il/ullrol.d Brochure disappointed • OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. Tel. 23

; ••••11 ••• 1•• 1••••1•••••••••••••' ••1.11.'•••••' ••••• 1••'1•••••••••••1••' •••••" 1 . • ••,11 1•••••, •••••••••••••, •••••••1 •• 1••' •• 1•••••••• , •••••••tl••••'I.t•• 'I•••••II ~ May, 1943 IRISH TRAVEL 135 Poelnsareoftenthe BestGuides Seeing Ireland Through a Rhyme By AUSTIN CLARK lJ T is regrettable that so many fine poems of [rish Till cloud and tempest, creeping lower, 11 places should still remain comparatively unknown. Old Djouce's ridges swathe in night, Some of these poems would actually save visitors And down through all his hollows pour: a lot of trouble when they see some famous hill or The foaming torrents swain and white; bay for the first time. On such occasions words Or when o'er Powerscourt leafless woods, usually fail us. But the right poem in the right place With crests that down the tempest lean, will express exactly what we feel and what we would Bend, braving winter's fiercest moods, like to say. Everyone who has spent a holiday in The pines in all their wealth 'Of green. North~west Donegal has been fascinated by Muckish, the mountain which dominates Falcarragh and Dun· A contemporary po~t, Winifrid Letts, also has fanaghy. The name is odq. in English, and the given us an exciting description of the west wind crouching shape of the mountain is queer, almost blowing through the glens of Wicklow:- grotesque. The shock of surprise which one experi~ Across the Wicklow hills he came, ences on seeing that mountain for the first. or indeed The herdsman felt his great wings beat; for the twentieth time. is expressed in a fine poem by The waves of Lough Nahanagan Shane Leslie, a poem which deserves to be widely Were ruffled by his flying feet; known. The Vale of Clam felt him pass Swift~faot across the meadow grass; Like a sleeping swine upon the skyline, They heard him where the waters meet, Muckish, thou art shadowed out, He made the pines and larches sway; Grubbing up the rubble of the ages He crossed the stream at Glenmacnass, With your broken, granite snout. And blew the falls to silver spray. Muckish, greatest pig in Ulster's oakwoods, Littered out -of rock and fire, WICKLOW MINIATURE. Deep you thrust your mottled flanks for cooling J. M. Synge has described in two perfect stanzas Underneath the peaty,mire. the quietness and loneliness of Wicklow:- Still south I w.ent and west and south again, At the end of the poem Shane Leslie brings us Through Wicklow from the morning till the night, back with a humorous touch to those ancient days And far from citie.s, and the sights of men, when wild boar crashed through our forests:- Lived with the sunshine, and the moon's delight. Muckish, you will not forget the people I knew the stars, the flowers, and the birds, Of the laughing speech and eye, The greq and wintry sides of many glens, They who gave you name of Pig~back~mountain And did but halt remember human words, And the Heavens for a sty! In converse with the mountains, moors and fens. Long before Synge. however, had discovered tl-:e GEORGE FRANCIS ARMSTRONG. gypsies. and tramps of Wicklow. G. F. Armstrong Wicklow is known. of course, as the Garden of had wntten about the wandering folk in his Ballads Ireland, and it has been praised, in sun and shower. of Down. Richard Rowley, an Ulster poet of to~da}' by a poet who has almost been forgotten, G. F. has written a volume of poems about the Mourne Armstrong. Here is what he says of Wicklow:- Mountains. In" The Names of Mourne" he writes:- A land where alway God's right hand Some poet christened every lonely hill, Seems stretching downward to caress sea~ward His wayward children as they stand And every hazel glen, or beach; And gaze upon its loveliness. The memory and music linger still, Lending a glory to familiar speech. G. F. Armstrong knew every hill and glen of And what lovely names they are! Ess~na~Weary, Wicklow and his numerous poems about that country Moneydarragh~more. are full of pleasant pictures:- Slieve Bernagh, Legananny, Through the land 0' the three Earls, The grouse lie thick in lonely plots As ye're goin' up an' down On Lugnaquilla's lofty moor, Prom Castlewellan in the hills And loud the sportsmen's echOing shots To Newry Town, Ring from the rocks of Glenmalure. Ye'll find in the quiet places Armstrong liked tramping across the hills when Where folk's not thron?, the wind was straining through the heather and Young girls wi' bonny faces, roaring in the trees:- An' lads good for a song. [Contd. on "ag~ 136 136 IRISH TRAVEL May. 1943

S"IIIIUUIIIIIIIIIIIIIIU'lIl1tll.IIIIIUIIUItIl.IIIIIIIUIIIIIItIlIIlIIIlIlII1I111I1I.UIUIIIIIIIUIIII1UII'm had eaten down to the head any fish that had already been hooked. IFishing While Yon Sleep I While you are likely to get better results from ~'IIII"I'I"IIIIIt"IIII'IIII'IIII"I'IIIII'II'IIIIIIII'11I11I111I11I1I11'llIt"I.ItI'lIllllf"ltll"'I'IIIIIIIII~ laying the spiller at night, you can, of course, also lay it during the day when the tide suits, or at any OU will often find yourself at some quiet spot time from a boat. It will be well, though, to be care­ ful in selecting your strand, since. if it is frequented on the coast where it is difficult to hire or ~ay Y borrow a boat and where there is no suitable by bathers, your main catch turn out to be a pier from which to drop a line. In such circum~ civil ,servant or a bathing belle on holiday. stances, I would recommend you to try laying a J. F. O'MAHONY. spiller. All you need is. say, twenty yards or more of stout line, about as many hooks as there are feet POEMS ARE OFTEN THE BEST GUIDES-Conld. from Pa1!e 135. on the line and a stretch of sandy beach. Short When I was adjudicating in the Verse Competition pieces of light fishing~line. about six to eight inches from Radio Eireann. many original place poems were long, will do to tie the hooks, which should. if sent in. Two of them were real" finds." In a poem possible, have a flattened end to prevent a knot from about the Mourne Mountains W. R. Rodgers des­ slipping off. To carry the spiller you will require a cribed rock and peak with the accuracy of one who short length of wood on which pieces of cork can be had climbed them all:- nailed. The hooks are simply stuck into the cork Drinihilla every half inch or so. Where the gales 6ffloothed and glued back the Any of the usual forms of bait will do, lug~worms. eyeUds: crab, mussels or pieces of mackerel, but remember The granite river that is called Kilkeel. that the spiller will be in the water for some time Whose beds were clean and gritty like oatmeal­ before it will be deep enough for the fish to come in. And Commedagh in whose 'high summer heat During that time. and afterwards. the bait will be at Nothing stirred. only the shimmering bleat the mercy of crabs, shrimps and all kinds of small Of sheep; and we. as we sat and chattered. fish. Therefore the firmer the kind of bait you use Marked the motionless shine of falls far-off the better. For that reason, I always found sand On Binyon. and nothing at all mattered. eels to be the most suitable. But if you find it im­ possible to get any of the usual baits, try periwinkles. DRAGON BLOOD OF THE FUCHSIAS. limpets or even earth~worms. I have caught fish As excitinH in its own way was .. Sheskin .. by T. with all three of them. H. White. who is well known as a novelist. Sheskin is 'Somewhere in Co. Mayo, and the poem"could only LAYING THE SPILLER. have been written by a poet with a sportsman's eye: When the tide is low in the evening, stretch the Sheskin, your lovely lonely tunnels of rhododen~ spiller along the sand almost at low water mark. drons. , securing it here and there with heavy stones. A pIece And absurd monkey puzzlers and riot of vegetable of wood attached to a cork will serve as a buoy. vigour. Then with the incoming tide, if you are really im­ And the dragon blood of the fuchsias in forests. patient for quick results, you might wade out when and primroses it has been covered to a depth of a couple of feet and And peas in September: all this in twenty miles of see if anything has happened. bog. Sheskin, your grouse whose crops startled me It is most important to be on the spot the follOWing spilling sweet heather morning before the spiller is actually uncovered by Under the fa!con't/ foot arvJ blood~spotted train, sea~gulls the tide. otherwise the may have the benefit and sea~trout of your catch.· Arrive therefore early and as the With tiger fins. and red salmon who would not water gets shallower you will be able to discern the take white bellies of the fish or you may see their tails Even with all out prayers: leaping. leaping out of threshing the top of the water. You will be so filled the Owenmore. with the excitement of the moment that you will be wading madly out to drag the spiller ashore. Very few countries are as rich as outs in place~ poems. Unfortunately, these poems are scattered BASS. CONGER, WHITING. here and there through many volumes. Collected together, they would certainly help to attract visitors I think that the best thing about spiller~fishing is to our hills and lakes. that you never know what kind of fish you are going to catch. I have caught in this way most varieties of flatfish. bass, conger, skate, ray, whiting. an occa~ J. J. "DE WITT" Turf Burning sional pollack and once a cod, weighing about ten HEAT STORAGE COOKERS pounds. My biggest catch. in quantity if not in O'Hara for Hotel. and Re.taurant. quality. was fifteen enormous dog~fish in a line of '1 W,ll cook for 200 people daily on 1 Ton 0' Tu,", .... month. May we .end 1I0U detal/. hundred hooks. These were the variety known in • CO. LINCOLN PLACE, DUBLIN parts of Kerry as "blu~-dogs." Incidentally, they LTD. I Which road will you take?

011 to the Gap of Dwzloe-

Across tIre Healy Pass-

()7 l cr to 'hI' 1t17'I'/)' hill at G/rllishrell. Co. Liml'rirk- /lr d07"1I alollg al/Y uf the thol/sal/cI othl'r pleasa/lt roads uf Irrlal/d 138 IR.ISH TR.AVEL May, 1943 LOVELY WATERS OF CONNEMARA By P. }. CALLAN

HOUGH probably ample tribute has been paid water is everywhere the predominant element. by a variety of persons to the Connemara scene. Hundreds of lakes, large and sm&ll, jewel the great T the emphasis is too often on the quaint or expanse of rock and bog, and if you are to see them picturesque, or even what may be termed the pro~ more intimately you must descend along the chasmed fessional appeal of its people and places. Painters river~course again and bear on by the woods of are as ready to spend their eloquence as their skill Ballynahinch to Toombeola. From there the road of line on the ever~changing wonders of the western runs some six miles uncheered by house or homely skies; anglers have almost claimed the waterways for pasture, through a waste that is more of water than their exclusive own, and too many casual visitors of land. Against a monochrome of moor, there is hope to appraise the Connemarians with a pliant us\: the rare and magical contrast of an island~grove-' of words like breidin and bainln. But for me. at sedge and ceannabhan on lake shores, blue depths least-neither painter nor angler, nor, I hope, priggish and ,the welcome, warm green of trees. seeker~out of the quaint-the water~scapes of Con~ nemara are its foremost beauty. The road emerges on a peot>led coast at Ballina~ boy where one may turn towards the coral beaches Water is there in every gradation of colour and of Ballyconneely. Nowhere is the dive.rsity of tone density, from the stinging salt~spume of ocean and shade more apparent or more lovely than on breakers to the blossom~light spray of a hill-cascade. these golden sands. The light~brown streams from For a far~flung panorama of these water~scapes, it the moors take on a tawny spkndour where they is best to gain the high ridge that links Ben Lettery spread on the strand. At the line of the sea itself and Ben Gabhair. From the main Galway~Clifden the salty weight of the Atlantic is seen in moving, road at Ballynahinch Cross your upward course will multi~hued masses as it sways dense gardens of sub~ f(jllow the deep gorges of the river which thunders merged wrack or surges over strangeIy~lichened into the wooded lake below. Then, on the ridge. shoals of rock. with your breath eased, you turn seawards and your view takes in the great sweep of storm-fretted, rocky HAPPY JOURNEYING. coast from the far blue cliffs of Achill to the dim low There are other routes for other days of happy line of Aran. Near and terrible in their hushed journeying. We left the great Ballynahinch f ake­ immensity are the glens, confined by precipitous chain behind: Derryclare, with its circlet of wooded walls, of immemorial granite, two thousand feet high. vantage~point, isle to lure the traveller from the Galway road, and From your giddy the bleak mystery Lough Inagh, planned on the noble scale of the giant of Boranoraun is relieved only by the tiny white peaks that guard it round. There is Lough Auna, thread of the Owenglin, carrying a thousand lonely and still in the shelter of the tall hills nort't mountain streamlets to the sea. of Clifden. And one need Hardly enumerate the sylvan beauties of Kylemore. A .. LOST LAND." Whenever you view the waters of Connemara­ But the eye is eventually held by a wonderful lost whether their form be the gilded enamel of a moonlit land, lying between the blue bulk of Errisbeg hilI lake under a frosty sky or the whtte and mountainous and that strange rock~archipelago-a long skeletal motion of the seas, whipped by the spring gales-" finger-whose westernmost tip is Slyne Head. you build for the inner eye a memory of solace and Within this compass of perhaps fifty square miles, of joy.

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...... ,...... ,11 , 111 ••••• ,11, , ,., ,1III"II"M1II"""""".""""""""""""'''''''' , i May, 1943 IRISH TRAVEL 139 f""".""""" "" "."""""" "" """""""""."""" "" ,,.,,",,.,,,,.".".".".""""""""" """" ""..·"" ·".. i:~ Cycle to the Carlingford Peninsula! SEE IRELAND IN MINIATURE ttV By T. P. McDEVITTE

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HAT part of Ireland offers so many different togher Mountain, one can see beneath, the sun types of scenery in so small an area as the shining on the little pools of black peaty vater in the W Carlingford Peninsula? Pastoral scenes plain of Killeavy. are there in plenty, as well as bleak, rock~strewn mountains. Wooded hills sweep down to a Medi~ Straggling across the landscape is a little stream, terranean blue sea; and little villages nestle at the dividing farm from farm, from townland, yes, and state from state. feet of heather~clad heights. A traveller in this district could be pardoned for Dominating the scene is Slieve Gullion-famed. in imagining himself along the Western coastline of the Cuchullain Saga as Slieve Fuad-surmounted by Co. Donegal or Mayo. Here, as there, the small a cairn, the reputed dwelling place of the old witch. black fields are enclosed by low stone ditches and Calliagh Bhirra, who gave her name to the " bottom~ little whitewashed houses shelter in the lee of the less" lake on the Mountain top. large rocks on the mountainside. The road goes on-across the rocky plateau! A great sense of loneliness comes upon one! Hardly ON FROM . a tree to be seen; only little stunted bushes springing up through crevices in the rock. All around is A fitting starting place for a tour of the peninsula desolate. And then it happens! !! is Dundalk, reputed birthplace and dwelling place of Cuchullain. Leaving by the main Dublin~Belfast road, looking to the right one can see the bare Car~ PANORAMA ON FLAGSTAFF HILL. lmgford Mountains sloping gently down to Dundalk The full panorama of , set amidst its neighbouring mountain, bursts into sight. One feels on top of the world looking down on a deep blue sea, flanked by green woods and brown heather~clad mountains, aflame with gorse. The road hangs perilouslx. on the steep pine~covered sides of Flagstaff Hill and one can see from the entrance of the Lough. inland to the spires of Newry Town, and far beyond. Flagstaff Hill received its name from the fact that a flag was hoisted here every time a ship hove in Sight, for the benefit of the Newry Pilots. O~ course this practice has long since been discontinued. Co. Down rolls away in waves to the East, :::ul~ minating in the distant cloud~capped Mountains of Mourne. In the Valley, toylike buses and cars seem to creep along a narrow black ribbon, the Newry to Warrenpoint Road. Dusty lanes wind over the scene like threads carelessly thrown upon a patch~ Carlingford Castle work quilt. A train puffs fairylike smoke~rings as it speeds past the battlemented keep of Narrow~Water Bay, and, on the left, the pale blue mass of Slieve Castle beside the winding river. Warrenpoint, with Gullion above the Armagh Hills. Passing through its grey church spire, juts out into the jade green, an almost continuous tunnel of tall trees, and skirting pear~shaped Lough, and the Ross Monument and the pine~clad slopes of Slieve Feede, in seven miles Rostrevor Church can be seen among the pretty one arrives at Flurrybridge-the village under two woods which surround that village. If the tral)eller flags-the southern end in and the can spare time to see only one view in Ireland, let northern end in Southern Ireland. him see this one! About 300 yards past the "Border Bar," the cyclist The cyclist who travels here will need to be well or rambler can take the road to the right (unappr0ved eqUipped with good brakes. as the road down the hill for motor traffic). As it climbs the shoulder' of Eden- is 1i miles long, loosely surfaced and has at least [Continu,d on pa~, 141 ....."...... "..."...... "..."...."...."." .."...... ""..""""...."...... "."..."..""'''''''''''''1 GLENBAY HOTEL LICENSED Hamill's Hotel ; A.A•• R.I.A.C.• LT.A. A.A.. R.I.A.C.. I.T.A.

Goodwill GLENTIES Courtesll Good Service CENTRE FOR PICTURESQUE Consideration SCENERY OF DONEGAL Phone HIGHLANDS No. 4 MALINMORE. GLENCOLUMBCILLE P,oprielr..,-Mr.. JOSEPHINE HAMILL Telegrams: GLENBAY. GLENCOLUMBCILLE. Apply CUNNINGHAM

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An Ideal Holidall Resort! DRUMBEG HOTEL Phone: INVER 2 INVER, co. DONEGAL LICENSED Direct Rail connection to Inver Station via Strllbane, or from Sligo by Road Bus. Phone Fully !::::: Drumbeg Hotel. facing due south and Doneg~l Bay. is situated in the midst of its own well laid out 13 HOTEL Licensed grounds of 1 60 acr~s. which also include rivers. lakes. woods. fine sandy strand. warren. hills, and i beautiful scenery. Hot and Cold Water all room•. I Electric Light. Etc. WM. HEMMERSBACH. Proprietor. /Buncrana

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----- _. J Phone: BALLYGORMAN 3 RAIL"WAY HOTELS :- " , ••• , ••••,11.,1.,1.,1.,.1111•••••••••••••••, ••• ,111' 111•••11 ,1.11 •••I.r. For COMFORT, CUISINE cand SERVICE r r....T·R·A·C·E·Y..;..S"'....H..O·T'ii'i~ ...... ·; BUNDORAN, Co. Donegal i FULLY LICENSED MOVILLE On the shore& o£ Donegal Bay. Commercial and Tourist Hotel Championship Gol£ Links. -~~_:':I • FISHING • GOLF • TENNIS :- IIIII III U.II IIIIIIIIII IIIIII 11111••"'" r.....O·~·D·O·H·liR·Ty·~·s ...... ii·OT·liL...·.. GREENORE, Co. Louth On Carling£ord Lough. Gol£ Links. I.U.. 18 CARNDONAGH ••U.COu. Best Known and Most Central for NORTHERN IRELAND INISHOWEN PENINSULA * : ,1 11.,1•••111 ••••• , •• 11 ,1•••,1.11 ,11•••11, 1••••••111 •• ,11•••11.,•••• ...... * 11 11 11 1 '111 . ROSTREVQR, Co. Down i SLIEVE LEAGUE HOTEL On Carling£ord Lough. Gol£ Links. C~RRICK, Co. DONEGAL Mild and sheltered.

FlahlnK, HlklnK, BoatlnK. CllmblnK Apply to MANAGERESSES orat PRINCIPAL STATIONS ! BU. TO DOOR. Appllf-.J. MALON.V

...... " 1: , 0 .. May, 1943 IRISH TRAVEL 141

CYCLE TO CARLINGFORD (contillued from page 139) growth, on the other. According to the story, it was two hairpin bends. Having successfully negotiated presented to some invading soldier as a reward for these, one finds oneself on the Newry~ road, his services. He didn't seem to appreciate it how­ at the Ferry hill Custom's Post (Eire). A leafy lane ever, for he sold it to a neighbouring gentleman for leads down to where a row-boat ferry takes one five shillings. across to Narrow-Water Castle. If one wishes to Over a little stone bridge and through the trees, go to Omeath instead, one turns to the right at the the traveller comes upon Ballymascanlon, a short Customs, and the village is reached in a few miles. row of yellowed cottages with long brick chimneys Omeath is the headquarters of the pyster fishing and myriad-paned windows with nasturtiums climb­ industry and it is in these waters that the world ing round them. famous .. Carlingford Natives" are found. About 10 minute's walk from here, upstream, one OMEATH, CARLINGFORD, GREENORE. comes to Proleek Cromlech, a stone of 50 tons, perched on the points of three upright stones, and After leaving Omeath, the good tarred road climbs measuring about 15 feet in height. The story goes a little, always running between the sea and the that, if one is able to throw three stones on to the mountains. Waterfalls tumble down, and far out to top of this bO!Jlder, so that they remain there, the sea, thin wisps of smoke rise from the coasting vess~ls. thrower will be. married within a year, or alternatively A few miles of such scenery bring one to obtain a wish. In the same field is the .. Giant's the old village of Carlingford-one time Norse Naval Grave" made of stones and measuring about 20 feet Base, English Fortress and Schomberg's Hospital by 5 feet. Headquarters. It has been burnt and rebuilt so many times that everyone has lost count if its many vicis­ Upon reaching the Main Road, only four miles situdes. King John's Castle (although that monarch remain before journey's end. Winding through the had nothing to do with the structure) stands on a trees, one espies the spires of Dundalk and the old rocky promontory overlooking the little harbour. windmill tower, rising above the grey roofs of the The road to Greenore goes through the narrow town. winding streets and under the Thosel, arched like one of the gates of a walled city. It is said that Parliament met here once and enacted laws for the entire Pale. In a few miles, Greenore Golf Links is reached. Across the links is the Hotel, overlooking the en­ trance to the Lough. Twenty miles have been covered and 15 more remain. Retracing one's wheelmarks across the link-,. one joins a tarred road for the homeward journey, which skirts the southern slopes of the mountains and runs for most of the way between the railway and sea. Beautiful and far~reachin9 views can be had of Dundalk Bay, !he East Coast down to Clogher Head and Lambay Island. At Riverstown, the Alcohol Factory is a prominent landmark. This produces alcohol for Motor Traction, etc., from Potatoes.

AS IN DONEGAL The scenery here is r~miniscent of Donegal. A bend in the road; a little stream; the marshy fore­ ground and the mountainous background make one think of the Hills of Donegal. The Railway crosses the river here by a viaduc;t. similar to that at Owen­ carrow, near Creeslough. A few miles further on, a road to the left takes one to GYLES QUAY. It bends sharply and descends gently to the group of whitewashed houses, beside a concrete pier. A solitary rowboat lies on the sand and a seagull is perched on the prow. No sound is heard, save the breeze stirring the long grass and the soft padding of the waves on the shore. THE ROUGH AND THE SMOOTH The road to Dundalk skirts well-wooded estates Tb. Thatcber atraigbtena them out. and passes close to Trumpeter's Hill, bare and rocky (Prize-winning Photograph-1fr. 11. H. Mitchell, on one side and well planted with trees and und~r- The Tro sach~, North Strand. Limerick.) 142 IRISH TRAVEL May, 1943 A DIRECTORY OF IRISH HOTELS (B.-Number of Bedrooms. H.C. indicates Bedrooms with hot and cold water available.)

AllBEYFEALE (Limerick). BALLYLICKEY (Cork). CARAGH LAKE (Kerryl. COURTOWlV HARBOUR (Wexford). LEEN'S, Main St.; B. 12. OUVANE; B. 10; H.C. SOUTHERN; B. 33; H.C. BAY VIEW; B. 10. BOLGER'S ~1ARINE; B. 22. ABBEYLEIX (Laogbil). BALLYLIFFElf (Donegal). CARLOW (Carlow). COURTOWN.;JB. 17. DE VESCI ARMS; B. 10. BALLYLIFFEN; B. 15. ROYAL; B. 40; H.C. LEVUKA GUEST HOUSE; B. 11. ACHILL ISLAND (Mayo). BALLYMONEY (Werlord). CARlfA (Galway). CREESLOUGH (Donegal). ACHILL SOUND; B. 14. MR. MOWATT, Kildennot; B. 16. MONGAN'S; B. 35; H.C. O'DONNELL'S; B. 11. AMETHYST, Keel; B. 22; H.C. WM. SMITH, Tara Hill Hse; B.7. CLEW BAY, Dooagb; B.11. CARImOlfAGH (Donegal). KEEL BAY, Keel; B. 7. BALLYSBANNOlf (Donegal). O'DOHERTY'S; B. 12; H.C. CROSSBAVEK (Cork). MINAUN, Keel; B. 8. IMPERIAL; B. 14. CHURCH BAY; B. 10. PATTEN'S (Private), Keem; B. 5. ROYAL MILLSTONE; B. 12; RC. CABRICK (Donegal). RICHVIEW, Keel; B. 8. SWEENEY'S; B. 12; H.C. SLIEVE LEAGUE; B. 10. DALKEY (Dublin). SLIEVEMORE, Dugort; B. 30. CLIFF CASTLE; B. 30; H.C. BAlfTRY (Cork). CARRICK-olf-SBAlflfOlf (Leitrim). " LUCKINGTON" GUEST HOUSE, ABERLOW, GLEN OF (Tipperary). CANTY'S; B. 14; H.C. BUSH; B. 20; H.C. Ulverton Rd.; B. 9; H.C. GLEN OF AHERLOW; B. 14; H.C KEANE'S; B. 8. VICKERY'S; B. 20; H.C CARRIGART (Donegal). DELGAlfY (Wicklow). All.AN ISLANDS (Galway). CARRIGART; B. 26. EASTON HOUSE; B. 13; H.C. GANLY'S, Kilronan: B. 12. BELMULLET (Mayo). HEALION'S; B. 10. CASBEL (Tipperary). DERRYBEG (Donegal). ARDARA (DonenJ). RYAN'S CENTRAL; B.17. ERRIGAL VIEW, Middletown; B. 12. NESBIT ARMS; B. 14. BETTYSTOWlV (Meath). MtCHAEL GALLAGHER Derrybeg NEPTUNE; B. 20; H.C. CASTLEBAR (Mayo). House, Cotteen, Blmbeg~ B: 12. ARDEE (Lonth). IMPERIAL; B. 30; H.C. BROPHY'S; B. 10. BIRR (OI!a1y). DIlfGLE (Kerry). . RUXTON ARMS; B. 10. DOOLY'S; B.14. CASTLECOVE (Kerry). BENNER'S, Main SI.; B. 21; H.C. WESTCOVE; B. 15. BLACKROCK (Lonth). ARDMORE (Waterford). DONEGAL (Donegal). CLIFF HOUSE; B. 23; H.C. BLACKROCK; B. 23. CASTLEFREKE (Cork). OWNAHINCHA; B. 1 t. ABBEY; B. 10. BRAY (Wicklow). CENTRAL; B. 10; H.C. ARKLOW (Wicklow). KILLY~1ARD GUEST HOUSE; B.7. HOYNE'S, Main St.; B. 16. BAY, Esplanade; B. 20. CASTLEGREGORY (Kerry). ROYAL; B. 21; H.C. BELLA VISTA, Esplanade; B. 10. FITZGERALD'S; B. 6. BELMONT, Esplanade; B. 10. O'CONNOR'S: B. 6. DOWlfIlfGS (Donegal). BEACH; B. 16. AJUWQlORE ISLAND (Donegal). DAINGEAN, 8 Sydenham Villas; B. 5; RC. CASTLEISLAND (Kerry). GLEN; B.12. CROWN; B.8. DROGBEDA (Louth). DOCKERY'S, WAVE CREST, CENTRAL; B. 20. ASBFORD (Wicldow). Esplanade; B. 8. EAGLE, Esplanade; B. 19. CASTLETOWlfBERE (Cork). WHITE HORSE; B. 21. BEL·AIR; B. 14; H.C. BEREHAVEN; B.16. GLEN; B. 7. EDENVALE, Esplanadp; B. 8. ESPLANADE; B. 40; H.C. DROMAHAIRE {LeilriIl\l. FITZWILLIAJl1, Esplanade; B. 13. CBARLEVILLE (Cork). ABBEY; B. 10; H.C. ATBElmY (Galway). GLENARM, Esplanade; B. 12; HC. ROYAL; B. 12. HANBERRY'S; B. 11; H.C. DROMIlfEER (Tipperary). GLEN HAZEL, Meath Rd.; B. 10; CHURCHILL (Donegal). LOUGH DERG; B. 10. ATHLONE (Westmeath). H.C. McCLAFFERTY'S; B. 6. CENTRAL; B. 19; H.C. HOLYROOD, Esplanade; B. 22. KINVARA, Esplanade; B.28. CLAREMORRIS (Mayo). DUBLIIf CITY. MOUNT COLEMAN, Meath Road; ATBY (Xi1dare). CON WAY'S ; B. 21; H.C. Licensed Hotels. LEINSTER ARMS; B. 12; H.C. B.10. RATHCLAREN GUEST HOUSE, CLIFDElf (Galway). BUSWELL'S, 25/26 Molesworth St; AUGBRIM (Wlcldow). Killaroey Road; B. . CENTRAL; fl. 10. B. 13; H.C. HILL'S GUEST HOUSE; B. 16. RATH·NA·SEER, Esplanade; B. 10 MRS. E~fERSON, Ivy Hotel; B. 10. CENTRAL, Exchequer SI.; B. 106; MRS. STRAHAN; B. 9. ROYAL, Main St.; B. 20; HC. LAVELLE'S; B. 10; H.C. H.C. ST. ANNE'S, Esplanade; B. 10. CLARENCE, Wellington Quay; B. 70; AVOCA (WlokJow). SEAVERGE, Esplanade; B. 16. CLOGHAlfE (Kerry). H.C. AVOCA; B. 10; H.C. SMITH'S, Esplanade; B. 12; H.C. O'CONNOR'S; fl. 6. DOLPHIN, Essex SI.; B.20. MOORE'S VALE VIEW; B. 10; H.C. MRS. SOMERS, 1 Richmond Tce. ; B. 8. FOU,R COURTS, Inns Quay; B. 100 ; STRAND, Esplanade; B. 12. CLOlfBUR (via CJaremorrls. Mayo). H.C. SYDENHAM, PutIand Rd.; B. 10. KILBRIDE LODGE (Guest House) ; BAGEKALSTOWlV (Carlow). B.8. GRESHAM, Upr. O'Counell St.; B. 96 ; DOORLEY'S; B. 15. BIU'1"1'AS BAY (WlokJow). H.C. McDANIEL'S; B. 12. CLONEA (Duogarvao, Water!ord). GROSVENOR, WestIand Row; B. 23; BALLINA (Mayol. ROCKFIELD; B. 11; H.C. OCEAN VIEW; B. 12. H.C. COMMERCIAL; B. 10. MRS, SMITH, Three Mile Water; B,7. JURY'S, College Green; B. 100; DOWNHILL; B. 9; H.C. CLOlfEVAlf (Gorey. Wexford). H.C. HURST'S; B. 25; H.C. BUlfBEG (Donegal). HORGAN'S; B. 4. MOlRA, Trinity SI.; B. 20; H.C. LOUGH CONN; Cloghan's; B. 10. BRESLiN'S; B. 12. CAHORE HOUSE; B. 9. MORAN'S, Talbot St.; B. 50; H.C. IMPERIAL; B. 30; H.C. SEAVIEW; B. 12; H.C. NEW ORMOND, Onnond Quay; MOY; B. 20; H.C. CLOlfMAlfY (Donegal). B. 100; H.C. MRS. F. E. L. REID, Curramore BURCJWfA (DooeraI). INNISHOWEN; B. 8. NORTH STAR, Amiens St.; B. 50; ATLANTIC; B. 10. House, Currey; B. 8. CLOlfMEL (Tipperary). H.C. BAYVIEW; B. 18. POWER'S, Kildare St.; B. 30; H.C. CENTRAL; B. 10. HEARN'S; B. 32 H.C. BALLINAFAD !RoIcommou). ORMONDE; B. 39. ROYAL HIBERNIAN, Dawson St.; HOLLYBROOK;B: 15. LAKE OF SHADOWS; B. 26. B. 130; H.C. LOUGH SWILLY; B. 40. COD (Cork). • RUSSELL, SI. Stephen's Green ; BALLIlIASLOE (Galway). B1JIIDOBAIr !DoDeaIl. EUROPEAN; B. 12; H.C. B. 61; H.C. HAYDEN'S; B. 30. • AMERICAN; B. -15; H.C. SHELBOURNE, St. Stephen's Green; O'CARROLL'S; B. 14; H.C. CORG (JIuo). B. 152; H.C. ATLANTIC; B. 21; H.C. ASHFORD CASTLE; B. 44; H.C. HOLLOWAY'S; B. 8. BAY VIEW; B. 14; H.C. VAUGHAN'S, 29 Pamell Sq.; B. 37; CENTRAL; B. 32; H.C. H.C. BALLIlIGEARY (Cork). COOTEBILL (Ca9lUll. CONWAY'S; B.12. COURTVIEW & WHITE HORSE; WICKLOW, Wicklow SI.; B. 35; ARD·NA-LAOI; B. 14; H.C. FARNEY; B. 20. B. 30; H.C. H.C. GREAT NORTHERN; B, 76; H.C. WYNN'S, Lr. Abbey St.; B. 65; H.C. BALLDmOBE (JIuo). HAMILTON; B. 34; H.C. CORK CITY. RAILWAY; B.20; H.C. HOLYROOD ; B. 13; H.C. CENTRAL, 3 Prince's SI.; B. 10. IMPERlAi.; B. 18; H.C. CORRIGAN'S; B. 10; RC. UDIloeued BoIeIa. BALLYII11JlIOR Ikr7l. MAGHERY HOUSE; B. 14. HOSKINGS', Prince's St..i B. 15. ABBOTSFORD, 72 Harcourt St.; CASTLE; B. 46 i H.C. MARATHON; B. 20; H.C. IMPERIAL, Pembroke ::>t.; B. 90; B. 30; RC. CENTRAL; B. 3u; H.C. MRS. O'FLAHERTY, .. Magheoi "; H.C. BARRY'S, Gt. Denmark St.; B. 35. HIBERNIAN; B. 14. B.IO. METROPOLE, MacCurtain SI.; B. BELVEDERE, Nth. Gt, George's St.: MOUNTAIN VIEW; B. 15. PALACE; B. 30; H.C. 100; H.C. (Unlicensed). B.20. STRAND; B. 22; H.C. SHENE HOUSE; B. 18; H.C. MUNSTER, Coburg St.; B. 24; H.C. CABIN, 51 Upr. O'Counell SI.; B. 10. SAVOY; B. 16. SEA VIEW; B. 18; H.C. TURNER'S, Oliver Plunkett SI.; B.14. CALEDONIAN, Sth. Gt. George's St. WEST END; B. 26. TOURIST HOTEL; B. 10; H.C. VICTORIA, Patrick St.; B. 76; H. C. B. 20; RC. WINDSOR, MacCurlain SI.; B. 30; CARLTON, Harcourt St.; B.H. BALLYCO'1"1'OR (Cork). BtJRT01O'OBT (Donegal). H.C. CLERKIN'S, 58 Eccles St.; B. 1&. BAY VIEW; B. 45. O'DONNELL'S; B. 10. WREN'S; B10 COUNTY, Harcourt St.; B. 31; H.C FAWCETT'S; B.45. CUMBERLAND, Weitlaod Row' CAIIIBCIVBII:II !KerrY). COItOFIlf (Clare). B. 21; H C. HARP; B. 12; H.C. EYRE S'rUDDER~Crall!'!0ber; B. 8. DROMID, North Circular Rd.; B. 9. BALLYGAB (Galway). O'CONNELL'S RAILWAY (late WALL'S; B. 12. T. G. STUDDERl, Clifden Houae; EASTWOOD, 91/92 Lr. Leeaon St.; Leslle',); B. 18. B. 8 B.22. May, 1943 IRISH TRAVEL 143

EDENVALE, 4 Harcourt St.; B. 11 ; DUNMORE EAST (Waterford). GREENCASTLE (Donegal) CENTRAL, Baker Plaee; B. 10. H.C. STRAND; B. 16. CARRICK·A·MAN; B. 20 C~~t~E'S, O'Connell St.; B. 46 ; ELLIOIT, Harcourt St.; B. 12. DRUlIlAWEIR; B. 16. ELVA, 66 Parnell St.; B. 12; H.C. DUllQUIN (Ding1e, KerrY). THE FORT; B. 27. DESMOND, Catherine St.; B. 20' FITZPATRICK'S, 38 Westland Row; l.lAURICE KAVANAGH; B. 9. H.C. ' B 12; H.C. GREENORE (Lonlh). G~ORGE (Royal), O'Connell St.; B. GALWAY ARMS, 54/55 Parnell Sq.; EASKEY (Sligo). GREENORE; B. 30. .3; H.C. B. 17; H.C. SEAFJELD; B. 14; H.C. HANRATTV'S, Glentwerth St.; B. 20. GROOME'S, 8 Cavendish Row; B. 12. McCARTHV'S HOTEL and RES. IVANHOE, Hareourt St.; B. 46; ENNIS (Clare). GREYSTONES (Wicklow). TAURANT: B.6. H.C. CARMODV'S, Abbey St.; B. 25; H.C. CENTRAL, Trafalgar Rd.; B. 86. NATIONAL, Baker Plaee; B. 24 LEIX, Gardiner's Row; B 15. OLD GROUND; B. 30; H.C. GRAND; B. 56; H.c. H.C. LENEHAN, 24/25 Harcourt St.; QUEEN'S, Abbey SI.; B. 36; H.C. RAILWAY; B. 16. RAILWAY; B. 25: H.C. B. 25; H.C. l.ucDERMOTT, 32/33 Harcourt St.; ENNISCORTRY IWerlord). GWEEDORE (Donegal). LIMERICK .JUNCTION (Tipperary). B. 26; H.C. RAILWAY; B. 20; H.C. GWEEDORE; B. 20; H.C. RYAN'S; B. 20; H.C. MARIS, 20 Lr. Fitzwilliam St.; B. 1.~ ; DOOGAN'S (Meenderrygampb); B. 12. RC. • ENNISCRONE (BalJiDa, Sligo). LISDOONVARNA (Clare). ' MONT CLARE, Clare St.; B. 16. SCURMORE; B. 36; H.C. BEADFORD (Galway). BALLYNALACKEN CASTLE; B.10. MURRAY'S, Marlboro St.; B. 10; MrCORlIfACK'S; B. 9. IMPERIAL; B. 60; H.C. RC. ENNJSKERRY (Wicklow). LYNCH,S; B.39; H.C. NOONAN'S, 14 Upr. Ormond Quay; MOUNT MAULIN HOTEL; B. 10. ROYAL SPA; B. 30; H.C. 13. 12. H.C. BOWTB (Dnblin). O'BRIEN'S, 80/81 ParneU St.; B. 20 ; POWERSCOURT ARMS; B. 12. CLARElI10NT; B. 32; H.C. LISMORE (Waterford). H.C. SUMMERHILL; B. 13. DALRIADA; B. 12. MISS F. H. JACOB, Rath. 1 mI., ORAN, 42 Lr. Baggot St.; B. 9; H.C. MRS. HARJETTE WINDSOR, Way­ ROYAL; B. 16; H.C. Lismore. PARKSIDE, Nth. Circular Rd.; B.20; side Cafe; B. e. ST. LAWRENCE; B. 29; H.C. RC. SILVER VALE; B. J2. LISTOWEL (Kerry). PELLETJER, 21/22 Harcourt St.; mCH (AnnaacanJ. Kerry). LISTOWEL ARMS, The Square; B. 26; H.C. FERMOY (Cork). STRAND; B. 11. B.20. PHOENIX PARK, Parkgate St.; GRAND; B. 20. B. 10; H.C. LOIDSBURGB (Mayo). REGENT, D'Olier St.; B. 32; H.C. FINEA (Streete..l Westmeath). mcmGEELA (Macroom, Cork). OLD HEAD; B. 16; H.C. ROYAL EXCHANGE, 5/7 Parliament O'CONNOR'~; B. 12. CREEDON'S; B. 10. SI.; B. 21. LAKE; B.10. LUCAN (DnbliD). ST. GEORGE, Pamell Sq.,; B. 22; FOUllTAIlfSTOWN (Crosshav8D, Cork). NATIONAL SPA AND HYDRO; H.C. FOUNTAINSTOWN HOUSE; B.10. IlfVER (Donegal). B. 47; H.C. STANDARD, Harcourt St.; B. 57; DRUMBEG; B. 28; H.C. H.C. FOYNES (Limerick). MAAM CROSS (Galway). SWISS, 34 Fitzwil1iam Sq.; B. 18; CREVEEN; B. 6. PEACOCK'S; B. 11. RC. BELLS (Meath). UNIVERSITY, 23 Lower Hatch St.; GALWAY (Galway). DREWSTOWN GUEST HOUSE; B.9. MACROOM (Cork). • B.11. AMERICAN, Eyre Sq.; B. 10. RONAN'S: B.14; H.C. WESTBRooK, Parnell Square; B. 18. BAILEY'S, Eyre Sq.; B. 18; H.C. KENMARE (KerrY). VICTORIA; B. 11. WESTERN, 22 Nth. Frederick St.; CASTLE, Lr. Abbeygate St.; B. 25. GREAT SOUTHERN; B.40. B. 11; H.C. GIBLIN'S, Eyre Sq.; B. 10. LANSDOWNE ARMS, Main St.; MALINMORE (menco!nmci!1e, Donegal). GREAT SOUTHERN, Eyre Sq.; B. 30; H.C. JOSEPH O'BOYLE, MaIinmere; B. 8. Private Accommodation. B. 79; H.C. MALLARANNY (MayO). MRS. BEHA."!, 21 Lr. Hatch St i B. 7. IMPERIAL, Eyre Sq.; B. 25; H.C. KILCORAN (Cabir. Tipperary). ROYAL, Eyre Sq.; B. 50; H.C. GREAT SOUTHERN ; B. 42. BURLINGTON, 34/35 Upr. Leeson KILCORAN LODGE; B. 12. MO RAN'S : B. 10. S,., B. 12. SKEFFINGTON ARMS, Eyre Sq.; B. 12; RC. MRS. JOSIE MORAN, AvondaJe DUBLIN SERVICE FLATS, 28 Upr. KILKEE (Clare). House; B. 5; H.C. Pembroke St.; B. 66; H.C. UDliceDIed. ROVAL MARINE; B. 60. FOX'S, 14 Lr. Leeson St.; B. 10; STELLA MARIS; B. 18. MALLOW (Cork). H.C. ATLANTA, 14 Dominick St.; B.16. TH0ll10ND, East End; B. 19; H.C. CENTRAL, Main St.; B. 16; H.C. MISS A. E. McDWYER, 1 Cambridge EDINBURGH, 8 William St.; B. 8. WEST END; B. 30. HIBERNIAN; B. 14; H.C. Tee., Leeson Park; B. 10. T. KELEHAN, Newcastle Rd.; B. 6. TESSERN HOUSE, 16 Lr. Mount St, ; TOURIST, Prospect Hill; B. 9. B,15. KILLAll.NEY (Kerry). MANOR KILBRIDE (Wicklow). ARBUTUS, College St.; B. 30; H.C. GLENHEST ; B. 12. GABRETSTOWN STRAliD (Cork). CARRIGLEA GUEST HOUSE; B. 8 ; DtnmALK (Louth). ATLANTIC; B. 20; H.C. H.C. MILFORD (Donep1). IMPERIAl,; B. 33; H.C. O'NEILL'S; B. 24. CASTLE, New St.; B. 18. MILFORD; B.16. CLIFFORD'S, College St.; B. 8; RC. DUlQ'ANAGRY (Donegal). GLANDORE (Cork) DUNLOE, CoDege Sq.; B. 15; H.C. MlTCBELSTOWN (Cork). ARNOLD'S, .. St. P"trick's"; B. 19 ; MARINE HOTEL; B. 10. GLEBE; B. 34; H.C. FITZGERALD'S; B. 12; RC. PORT-NA·BLAGH· B 34' H.C. GREAT SOUTHERN; B. 77; H.C. SHANOON, BaJlyn;ore ·P.O.; B. 27; GLENBEIGB (Kerry\. IMPERIAL, CoDege St.; B. 12; H.C. MONASTERADEN (lIaIIaghaderreen). H.C. EVANS' (Towers'); B. 18; H.C. INTERNATIONAL, Kenmare Pee.; LOUGH GARA; B. 12; H.C. MRS. ALGEO, Lac Na Lore, Ballymore THE GLENBEIGH; B. 24; H.C. B.43; H.C. ROSS VIEW; B. 12. MONAGHAN (Monaghan). P.O; B. 12. KEN1.lARE ARMS, 17 College St.; ORIEL, The Diamond; B. 10; RC. MRS. A. MONTGOMERV, .. Bide-a­ B. 12. Wee," Ballymore P.O.; B. 8. GLENCOLUMBCILLE (Donegal). LAKE; B. 65: H.C. MONKSTOWN (Dublin). G.bENBAV; R. 20; H.C. THE MODERN, Fair View Sq.; B. 13 ; SALTHILL: B. 46; H.C. H.C. SILVERTON, The Hill; B. 10; H.C. D1JliGABVAN (Waterford), GLENDALOUGB (Wicklow). MUCKROSS; B. 40; H.C. DEVONSHIRE ARMS; B. 17. LARAGH HOUSE, LTD., Annamoe; LAWLOR'S, Bridge St.; B. 15. MOUllTCBARLES (Tanalal1011, DonegaI). B. 36; H.C. KILLESBAImRA (Cavan). SEAMOUNT; B. 12. CASSIDY'S; B. 10. D1Jli LAOOBAmE (DIlblin). GLENEALY (Wicklow). MOVlLLE (Donep1). HADDINGTON HOUSE; B,. 30 ; GLENEALY, LTD.; B.12. KILLINEY (Dublin). TRACY'S, Foyle St.; B. 17; H.C. RC. .. COURT·NA·FARRAGA ... B. 12' ROSS'S LTD.; B. 73; H.C. GLENGARJmT (Cork). MULLAGBMORE (CIiffoDey, B1Iro). ROYAL MARINE; B. 80; H.C. H.C. " CASEY'S; B. 14. MRS. D. J. O'SULLIVAN, .. SI. HANNON'S; B. 27. ECCLES; B. 61. UD1iceued Bolela. FIRGROVE; B. 10. Germaine's," Ballybrack; B. 8. IlULLINGAB (Weltmealh). GOLF LINKS; B. 25; H.C. CENTRAL; B 8. ALEXANDRE, Gresham Tee.; B. 16 ; KILLYBEGS (Donegal). GREVILLE ARMS: B. 15. RC. GLENMALURE (Wicklow). BAY VIEW (Rogers'); B. 20. MIDLAND; B. 1~; H.C. ARDREN, Marine Parade; B. 18; GLENMALURE; B. 12. FINTRAGH HOUSE; B. 14. RC. WHITE HOUSE (Guest House) ; B. 14. NAAS (KOdare). ASTORIA NAS·NA·RIOG; B. 10; H.C. AVENUE, Northumberland Ave.; GLEN 0' THE DOWNS (De\gaDJ. ID5SALE (Cork). OSBERSTOWN HOUSE; B.I3. B. 30; H.C. Wicklow). MURPHY'S; B. 12; H.C. CARLISLE, Ad",a1de Rd.; D. 25; GLENVJEW; B. 10. NAVAN (Meath) H.C. CENTRAL HOTEL; B. 21. ~LENCAR, Marine Parade; B.11; H.C. GLEIrlIES (Donegal). LAYTOWN (Meath). "lARINE GUEST HOUSE, 3 Halgh CANNON'S; B. 6. ALVERNO; B. 15. NENAGB (Tip,perary). Terraee i B. 9. H.C HAMILL'S; B. 16; H.C. O'MEARA S, Pearse St.; B. 30 H. C. ~NERV J\, Gresham t ee.; B. 10, LEElfANE (Galway). NEWCASTLE WEST (Limerick) P EANL.B.8. GORT (Galway) LEENANE' B.40. CENTRAL; B. 11. IER; n. 25; H.C. LALLY'S (Royal); B.10. MRS. CUFFE; B. 7. REALT-NA-MEARA; B. 11. !fEW ROSS (Werlord). WAVE CREST, Marine Tee.; B. 17; ROYAL; B. 18; H.t: H.C. GORTABORK (Donegal). LE'l"l'ERKEIfK (Donegal). McFADDEN'S; B. 11. McAULEY'S, 1IIGH Rd.; B. 8. OUGBTERARD (Galway). D~ (Gweedore, Donegal). ANGLERS; B. UNLEWEY; B. 12. GOUGANE BARRA (BaDiDgeary, Cork). LIMEIUCK (LImerick)• CORRIB; B. 20; H.C. .. POISONED GLEN" HOUSE; CRONIN'S BARRA ; B. 10 ARDHU HOUSE, N.C.R.; B. 8; LAKE (Late McMahon's); B. 10; B. lu. GOUGANE BARRA; B. 14. H.C. H.C. H.C. 144 IRISH TRAVEL May, 1943

PAJUDfASILLA (Kerry). ROSSNOWLAGH (Donegal). SHERIDAN'S; B. 15; H.C. TULLOW (Carlow). GREAT SOUTHERN; B. 60; H.C. COOLMORE HOUSE; B. 8. MISS ROWLETTE. Rowlette's Guest SLANEY; B. 9. B 8' PONTOON (Mayo). House, Wine St.; B. 7. F. LECKY WATSON. AImont; ., ROUNDSTONE (Galway). H.C. ANGLERS'; B. 12. KIKTO/\,'S: B. 9 SNEEM {Kerry). PORTARLINGTON (Laoighia). O'DOWO'S' B 9 SNEEM HOTEL; B. 12. UPTON (Ki1muckridge, Werlord). EAST END; B. 11; H.C. SHAMROCK; B'-10; H.C. MISS PEG O'CONNOR. The Green UPTON HYDRO; B. 11; H.C. House, Lr. Bridge St.; B. 6. PORTLAOIGmSE (Maryboro', Laoighia). ROUNDWOOD (Wicklow). URLINGFORD (Kilkenny). HIBERNIAN (Kelly's); B. 25; H.C. ROUNDWOOD; B. 12. BPAlfISH POINT (MiDtown MaIbll7, HARRINGTON'S; B. 8. PORTMARNOCK (Dublin). SALTmLL (Galway). Clare). PORTMARNOCK, Carriek Hill; B. ASTOR GUEST HOUSE; B. 9; H.C. MARINO; B. 12; H.C. VALENTlAISLAND (Kerry). 20: H.C. BANBA; B. 25; H.C. ST. ANTHONY'S; B. 7 ROYAL; B. 30. CENTRAL. Lr. SalthiII; B.I0. VIRGINIA (Cavan). PORTNOO and NARIN (Donegal). EGLI 'TON; B. 61; RC. 8'l'RABDHILL (Sligo). THE PORTNOO: B. 20. St. PATRICK'S: B.14. VIRGINIA LAKE; B. 12. FORSTER PARK; B. 28; H.C. STAR OF TIlE SEA (MeDermott's); VIRGINIA PARK; B. 12. PORTSALON (Donegal). FOY'S. Sao Antonio Tee.; B. 8. B.I0. PORTSALON: B. 70. GLENAVON, Upr. SalthiII; B. 7. WATERFORD (Waterford).' KINCORA; B. 16. STRANORLAR (Donegal). ADELPHl. The Mall; B. 26. PORTUMNA (Galway). KNOCKNAGOW. Lr. s:lIthiII; B. 7. KEE'S; B. 12. GRANVILLE. Quav; B. 68; H.C. THE HYDRO; B. 7. NORBROS: B.8. METROPOLE: B. 15. WYN; B.14. OIG GIOLLA. Lr. SalthiII; B. 9; H.C. THOMASTOWN (Kilkenny). RATRMULLAN (Donegal). O'LEARY'S' B 11 NORE VIEW: B. 15. WATERVILLE (Kerry). PIER; B. 11; H.C. O'REILLY'S'; B. 23; H.C. BUTLER ARMS; B. 70; H.C. ROCK LAND ; B.20; H.C. THURLES (Tipperary). SOUTHERN LAKE; B. 33; H.C. RATBNEW (Wicklow). STELLA MARIS: B. 20; H.C. HAYES'S; B. 40; H.C. NEWRATH BRIDGE (Hunter's) ; SUMMER-SET; B. 14. WESTPORT (Mayo). B. 16. TIPPERARY (Tipperary). RAILWAY; B.20. TOURISTS', Lr. SalthiII; B. 18. ROYAL. Bridge St.: B. 31; H.C. VILLA MARINA; B. 15. RECESS (Galway) WEXFORD (Wexford). GLENDALOUGH HOUSE; B. 11. WARWICK; B. 32; H.C. TRALEE (Kerry). CLANCY'S, Anne St.; B. 14; H.C. WHITE STRAND GUEST HOUSE; BENNER'S; B. 40; H.C. ROSAPENNA (Carrigart, Donegal). TALBOT. Trinity St.; B. SS; H.C. ROSAPENNA; B. 87; H.C. B.4. GRAND. Denny St.; B. 40; H.C. METROPOLE ; B. 10; H.C. WICKLOW (wicldow). MISS M. WILKINSON. 2 Seavicw SHANKILL (Dublin). PARK, Denny St.; B. 16; H.C. Villas; B. 7. SHANGANAGH CASTLE; B. 12 i MRS. DEVLlN. Ard-na·Grelne, New H.C. IMPERIAL. Denny St.; B. 12. SI.; B.5. ROSBEG (Glentill8, Donegal). GRAND: B. 18; RC. DAWROS BAY: B. 15. SHILLELAGH (Wicldow) TRAMORE (Waterford). MAGHERYMORE HOUSE; B. H. "~?C~LABAWN." The Tee.; B. 18; ROSCOMMON (RoIcommon). HOTEL AVALON; B.7. GREALY'S: B.16. BKERJl,IES (Dublin). GRAND; B. 55: RC. WOODElfBRIDGE (Wicklow). ROYAL; B. 23. WOODENBRIDGE; B. 14; H.C. GRAND; B. 20; H.C. HIBERNIAN; B. 20; H.C. t VALLEY HOTEL; B. 12; H.C. ROSCREA (Tipperary). MARINE. South Straod: B. 12; HOTEL DE LUXE; B. 12. CENTRAt H.C. MAJESTIC: B. S4; H.C. ROCKVILLE. Hoar Rock; B. 10. MRS. MANAHAN. Railway Sq.; B. 15. YOUGHAL (Cork). ROSSBEIGH (Glenbeigh, Kerry). RAILWAY (Morrissey·s). Strand St.; ATLANTIC; B. 20. MRS. A. KILGALLIN. "Slieve Corrig"; SKIBBEll.EEN (Cork). B. 20. DEVONSHIRE ARMS; B. 14. B. 10; H.C. WEST CORK: B. 14. GREEN PARK; B. 45. SEAPOINT, The Tenace; B. 18. HARBOUR VIEW, The Strand; ROSSES POINT (Sligo). SLANE (Meath). TRIM (Meath). B. 18; H.C. GOLF LINKS; B.19. CONYNGHAM ARMS; B. 10. CENTRAL, Market St.; B. 10; H.C. MONATREA, Ferrypolnt; B. 32. VICTORIA; B. 8. PACIFIC: B. 20; H C. SLIGO (Sligo). TUAM (Galway). PARK VIEW; B. 18. ROSSLARE 8'l'RABD (Werlord). FRIZELLE'S, The Bridge; B. 16; IMPERIAL; B 25. STELLA MARIS. Strand St.; B. 10. GOLF; B. 30. H.C. STRAND; B. I~; H.C. HARBOUR VIEW; B. 10. GRAND. Teeling St.; B. 28. TULLAMORE (0tIaIy). SUMMERFIELD; B. 10. PIER; B. GREAT SOUTHERN; B. 40; H.C. BOLGER'S: B. 21. SUNMOUNT; B. 26. STRAND; B. 40; H.C. IMPERIAL. Corcorao's Mall; B. 25. HAYES'; B. 25. THE HOLLlES; B. 9; H.C. .f.... i\~i'Oy ....·GAR'I)EN·S·.... ~·;~:;~;:;.~: ..·....1 ~ OO.PLETE SELECTION OF GARDEN PLANTS. INTERESTING VARIETIES OF : DOWNHILL HOTEL § ROCK PLANTS. CHOICEST CUT FLOWERS. Write for Sprinalr Autumn Li... e ~ Also MOYNE ABBEY KENNELS ~::di;~:;Ln.~:~~,;: ~ BALLINA : Particulars fram: ..... Be,.,1 Johnaton. Caatleaonnor, Balllna. eo...,o i ~""IIIIIII'"''IIIIIIIIII'''IIII''"IIIIIII''''II'''''IIIIIIIII'II''III1I''''IIII'''IItllllI ....U ....IIII..IIII..;.. I. T.A. OFFICIALLY APPOINTED

·HIOT·E'L"'~·~:~I~;;; :.:! • Mo.t modern and up­ r"' ..(i'OLIF....Lli..NIKS·...... to.date Hot.1 in Mayo. I.U.• R."'.Cl., u. ROSSES POINT, SLIGO 5: Beautilully .ituat.d on tb. Fully Lic.naed. O_ite Golf Club. Championahip Courae. banlte 01 the Moy in o.... n S South-W••t DOpect. Beautiful Scenery. Bathing and Fiahlng. ! ....ood.d ground. 0140 acre. E Ample Accommodation. Flr.t Cl... CuI.ine. Aa-a Cook.r •~ Inatalled. T.rma Moderat.. Garaa-. Fre•• Conveni.nt to Train and Phone: Roaae. Point 4. Tel./fPama:" Ewlna-. Roaaea Point." ; Bu•. Fin••t /.almoD. trout : •• '.1,.,1.,.,11, "•• ,•••• ,•• ".,•••• 1., •• ,•••••••• ,.' •••,., •• '•• '••••,•••••,." •• , ! and coar•• li.bing location in tb. W••t.

c:...tral HeatiDg Writing Rooml I Select Drawing Room. Commercial Room Private Room. H. & C. All Bedroom. FULLY LICENSED • 32 BEDROOMS Porter m_la all train. and bu.e•. FOR SHORT OR LONG STAY i Delightful spacious Diningroom for DInner ~ ••••II•••••••I.I , , , •• ' u •••••••••••••••II., .. Parties and Wedding Breakfasts. FREE GARAGE

UNDER SAME SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT: ,...H...,;z~I··,·HO·TEL····AVALO'i~····~~~·~·~~·~~~·~······ g Moylett' Cafe and Stores, Ballina (FULLY LICENSED) Surrounded by Parks Restful' Atmosphere DOWNHILL HOTEL, BALLINA-Telepbone: No. 7 : GoHing. Fishing • Proprietr : Mi.. MARY M. KENNY

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Telephone: SHANKILL 81 WHEN IN DUBLIN- Stay at SHANGANAGH CASTLE Four Courts Hotel HOTEL AND RESTAURANT Bed, Breakfast 8/6 Luncheon -- 2/6 Afternoon Tea 1/6 First-Class Catering. Fully or A LA CARTE Licensed. Bathroom Suites Garage. Moderate Tarifr SEA • BATHING • GOLF THREE TENNIS COURTS MODERN Reception, Garden and Completely re-organised lLOUNGE Dinner Parties and Dances under the Personal Supervision of Mr. BAR catered for B. J. TENNANT • I Manager ON MAIN BUS ROUTE FOUR COURTS HOTEL, LTD. Dublin, IQ miles. Bray, 2 miles Phones 73543-73075 INNS QUAY, DUBLIN

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Telephone: DUBLIN 22241-44 • erved by a regul;:.r S 'bus service pass.. iog the principal rail­ way stations, the CLARENCE i. within easy reach of shop­ JURY'S ping, commercial and Jimusement centres. Cenlrally healed throughout, with coal fires in all pub~ic rooms, it provides comfort and luxury at a moderate price. The HOTEL ballroom, with a floor sprung on the latest principles, accommo­ dales 300 dancer•. Telephones in the bedr.ooms and a gar­ DUBLI age adjoining the hotel are additional luxuries. • Comfort Phone 76178 Cuisine CLflREnce Service ~ hateZ- DUBL.IN ~ Telegrams: JURY'S DUBLIN

O'Kccffc's Phone: 35

Phone: 5 LE

YL EL, Phone: 7

T Phone: 2 c_..,.....

All within short distance from Railway Stations. Trains met. Golf, Tennis, Free Fishing, Boating, Swimming, Billiards, etc. Bring your Bicycle to Kerry and Stay at this chain of Hotels which offer a system of interchangeable accommodJation and meals. Hotels are situated within a radius of 20 miles of each other. L YO

phone; Cong 3

The Private Grounds include 25 Miles of Avenues and Walks, a Golf Course, Croquet Lawn and Putting Green, set amidst the most beautiful surroundings in Eire. • Bicycles, Jaunting Cars, Horses and Pleasure Boats available. • Free Fishing on Lough Corrib. • Tennis, Billiards, etc. ALL ABOVE HOTELS FULLY LICENSED

Published by the Proprietors, IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION, 15 Upper O'Connell Street, Dublin, and printed by WM. WARREN & SON, LTD., 15 Lower Orrnond Quay, Dublin. Uther Offices or the Assoc"'t1on :-BELFASr: 28 Roward Street. CORK: 65 Patrick Street PRINTED IN DUBLIN.