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Flowers of Italy's Gargano Peninsula

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Flowers of Italy's Gargano Peninsula Flowers of Italy’s Gargano Peninsula Naturetrek Tour Report 21 - 28 April 2011 Adonis Blue Botanising Monte Sacro Farm with Yellow Asphodel Green Hairstreak Report and images compiled by Andrew Cleave Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Flowers of Italy’s Gargano Peninsula Tour leader: Andrew Cleave Participants: Alan Waddoups Heidemarie Waddoups Geoff Power Steph Power Leslie Tasker Joan Baron Barbara Jones Day Day 1 Thursday 21st April Weather: Warm and sunny with some high cloud Andrew was already in Naples having been busy leading a trip the week before, so he was ready with the mini-bus when the group assembled at the airport. The journey across Italy was fairly uneventful, apart from some confusion whilst trying to leave the airport car park, but we did get some glimpses of what was to come later in the week in the form of drifts of magnificent Lady Orchids along the roadsides, and Black Kites sitting on electricity poles. Having left the motorways and arrived on the minor roads on the east coast of Italy we drove through avenues of Giant Fennel for mile after mile until arriving at some salt pans and lagoons where we were able to stop and look at a variety of water birds including Flamingos, Slender-billed Gulls, Little and Great White Egrets and Avocets. The limestone massif of Gargano was visible in the distance and we completed the final section of the journey by winding up a steep and tortuous road from Manfredonia. After checking in some of the group explored the immediate surroundings of the hotel, and had a first look at the historic town nearby. Day 2 Friday 22nd April Weather: Cool and cloudy at first, but warming up later The group’s introduction to the amazing diversity and abundance of the Gargano flora was at the first stop, only a few minutes drive from the hotel, along the narrow road leading to a nearby monastery. We had to take care of where we were walking or kneeling, and we made very slow progress as more and more species were discovered. Most obvious were the orchids in the Ophrys genus, such as the rare British native Late Spider Orchid Ophrys fuciflora, but we came across numerous other attractive species amongst them, many of them confusingly similar. The stony, terraced hillside, apparently no longer cultivated and only very lightly grazed, was colourful and scented with typical Mediterranean herbs including the abundant bright yellow Alyssum Alyssum saxatile and Horseshoe Vetch Hippocrepis glauca, Pink Hawksbeard Crepis rubra and clear blue Dyer’s Alkanet Alkanna lehmanii. Although we were all looking down at the plants, there were a number of butterflies on the wing, despite the cool conditions, and we picked up the calls of Woodlark, Subalpine Warbler and Cirl Bunting. 2 © Naturetrek September 11 Flowers of Italy’s Gargano Peninsula Tour Report After an intensive search of this rich habitat, with the group spreading out to cover a large area we drove a short distance along the road to a little copse for a lunch break where we had our first taste of some the local bread, cheeses, tomatoes, ham and wine. More orchids were added to the list here, including some tall Lady Orchids Orchis purpurea just coming into flower. After lunch we continued along the road to the Monastery where we found the endemic Goldendrops Onosma lucana on a crag with a splendid view down to the sea. Growing on the old walls were a few more interesting and familiar species such as the deadly poisonous Henbane Hyoscyamus alba and Pellitory-of- the-Wall Parietaria judaica. Our final foray for the day was along an ancient quarry track, which led into the impressive wooded gorge beyond the monastery where a few plants of Clove-scented Broomrape Orobanche caryophyllacea and Pitch Trefoil Psoralea bituminosa were identified by their distinctive scents. On returning to the hotel, a few of the party visited the town hoping to watch the Good Friday procession, but this seemed to have taken place elsewhere. Day 3 Saturday 23rd April Weather: Sunny, but with a cool breeze, and some light rain later in the day Our first stop of the day was in the valley below the town where we looked in some cultivated fields alongside the road. This area was an unlikely habitat for the Wild Tulip Tulipa sylvestris but many were spotted growing amongst the cereal crop. A few spikes of Wild Gladiolus Gladiolus italicus were also spotted and on the margins Cotswold Pennycress Thlaspi perfoliata was flowering. The next roadside stop enabled us to find more of the open habitat Ophrys species, and remind ourselves of the identification of species we had seen the previous day such as Bertoloni’s Bee Orchid Ophrys bertolonii, Spectacled Ophrys Ophrys biscutella and the very confusing Early Spider Orchid Ophrys sphegodes group. Driving on a short distance into the forest enabled us to find the beautiful wild Peony Paeonia mascula and some eye-catching displays of various species of wild peas such as Pisum sativum and Vicia melanops. The winding, single-track road into the forest gradually turned into a stony track with steep banks lined with ferns, and we eventually came to a picnic area where there was some evidence of forestry operations having taken place during the winter. After our picnic lunch we set off to walk through the forest and the plan was to descend into a cultivated valley, where the bright blue Anchusa cretica grows alongside the tracks. After last week’s problems with the route being barred to us we settled for the route to the Piscina Pantolfe through the forest and headed for the stony hillside where Iris lutescens was flowering in profusion and other sun-loving species were found amongst the rocks. The forest was filled with bird song, and every sunny patch had a variety of butterflies on the wing. We retraced the journey back along the forest tracks and the final orchid find of the day was a few spikes of the curious Bird’s-nest Orchid Neottia nidus-avis, spotted the week before from the mini-bus as we drove slowly out of the forest. We were back in town in time for a brief exploration of the castle walls and the rough ground near the hotel. © Naturetrek September 11 3 Tour Report Flowers of Italy’s Gargano Peninsula Day 4 Sunday 24th April Weather: A cloudy, breezy morning, sunny spells later and becoming warmer Our plan for the day was to visit the well-known botanical site of Monte Sacro, and as it was Easter Sunday we thought the area might be very crowded, but this was fortunately not the case. The route to Mattinata involves a long drive down a road made up of continuous hairpin bends, but with lovely views of the Gargano landscape and the coast. The town is by-passed with tunnels, underpasses and roundabouts, before another road with more hairpin bends ends at the starting point for a walk up Monte Sacro – a stony hill with a rich and fascinating flora. A well-trodden, way-marked path leads to the summit of the hill, but there is so much to see on the way that not all of the party opted for the walk to the highest point and found much to hold our attention within a very short walk from the parking place. Another rare British native, the Spotted Rock-rose Tuberaria guttata was a new species for the list, and impressive displays of Man Orchids Orchis anthropohora were seen amongst the rocks. Just before entering the woodland on the steep slope a large patch of Sparse-flowered Orchids Orchis pauciflora and Four- spotted Orchids Orchis quadripunctata were found. After driving back around Mattinata we stopped at the start of the track to Monte Saraceno, an impressive limestone outcrop and historical site overlooking the sea. Three species of Cistus (C. salvifolius, creticus and monspeliensis) growing in close proximity made for easy identification more orchids, including Ophrys melena were found along the track. The chambered tombs carved out of the limestone proved to be very interesting, some of them supporting colonies of Maidenhair Fern Adiantum capillus-veneris. We returned to the hotel in plenty of time to enjoy the panorama below the town, do some more sight-seeing in the maze of streets, and enjoy some drinks, before our evening roll call and dinner. Day 5 Monday 25th April Weather: Sunny for most of the day, but with a cold wind Andrew dropped the group off at the start of the Pilgrim’s Path, one of the ancient routes leading to Monte Sant’Angelo, and then drove down the hill to leave the minibus beside the road and walk back up to meet everyone. Plenty more orchids were seen along this route, including a few Lady Orchids on the steep slope, and we also found more of the Widow Iris with a few flowers worthy of a photograph. Once we had reached the mini-bus we drove on to the Bosco Quarto and checked a few roadside sites where we found many more orchids, including Roman, Dactylorhiza romana, Elder-flowered, D. sambucina, Sparse- flowered, Green-winged Orchis morio and Lady Orchid, and a few more peonies. A picnic stop in woodland, where seats and tables had been provided, turned out to be a very popular destination for local people following the tradition of an Easter Monday picnic in the countryside.
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