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RECIPE CONTENTS Xi CHAPTER 3 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Xix INGREDIENTS 33 FOREWORD from the FIRST EDITION Xx 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page vii Contents RECIPE CONTENTS xi CHAPTER 3 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xix INGREDIENTS 33 FOREWORD FROM THE FIRST EDITION xx PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION xxi Asian Sauces, Condiments, 34 PREFACE FROM THE FIRST EDITION xxv and Other Ingredients Condiments 40 CHAPTER 1 Dairy Products 45 A SHORT HISTORY Herbs 50 59 OF SAUCE MAKING 1 Mushrooms and Truffles Nuts and Seeds 65 Ancient Greek Cooking 3 Pork Products 66 Ancient Roman Cooking 3 Spices 67 Cooking in the Middle Ages 4 Spirits 75 Renaissance Cooking: Wine 77 The Sixteenth Century 9 Other Ingredients 81 The Seventeenth Century 11 The Eighteenth Century 15 CHAPTER 4 The Nineteenth Century 17 STOCKS, GLACES, The Twentieth Century 18 COPYRIGHTEDAND MATERIAL ESSENCES 87 CHAPTER 2 Stocks 88 104 EQUIPMENT 21 Glaces Jus 105 Cookware 22 Essences 106 Kitchen Tools and Utensils 27 Machines 31 Serving Utensils 32 vii 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page viii Derivative Brown Sauces CHAPTER 5 Without Wine or Vinegar 191 LIAISONS: AN OVERVIEW 109 Tips on Improving the How Liaisons Thicken 110 Flavor of Brown Sauces 195 Gelatin 111 Improvising Brown Sauces 197 Starches 113 Tips for the Restaurant Chef 200 Egg Yolks 116 Cream 117 CHAPTER 8 Butter 120 STOCK-BASED AND NON- Giblets and Foie Gras 122 INTEGRAL FISH SAUCES 201 Blood 128 Classic French Fish Sauces 202 Yogurt and Fresh Cheese 132 Combining Methods 209 Wine Lees 134 Sauces Using Scallop Coral 214 Coral 134 Contemporary Fish Sauces 215 Bread 134 Improvising Fish Sauces 219 CHAPTER 6 CHAPTER 9 WHITE SAUCES FOR INTEGRAL MEAT SAUCES 221 MEAT AND VEGETABLES 137 Integral Sauces for Sautéed Meats 222 Sauce Béchamel 138 Integral Sauces for Roasts: The Jus 227 Sauce Velouté 141 Integral Sauces Derived from Improvising White Sauces 154 Poached Meats 235 Integral Sauces Made from CHAPTER 7 Braised Meats 243 BROWN SAUCES 157 Steamed Meats 282 Demi-Glace and Coulis 158 Grilled Meats 284 Modern Methods for Tips for the Restaurant Chef 285 Making Brown Sauces 161 Naming Brown Sauces 164 CHAPTER 10 Integral Versus Stock- INTEGRAL FISH AND Based Brown Sauces 166 SHELLFISH SAUCES 287 White Wine–Based Derivative Basic Preparations and Ingredients 288 Brown Sauces 166 Poaching 289 Red Wine–Based Derivative Braising 296 Brown Sauces 178 Roasting 305 Derivative Brown Sauces Sautéing 306 Based on Fortified Wines 183 Steaming 308 Vinegar-Based Derivative Combining Methods: Fish Stews 311 Brown Sauces 184 Cooking Mollusks 318 viii ● SAUCES 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page ix CHAPTER 11 CHAPTER 14 CRUSTACEAN SAUCES 325 MAYONNAISE-BASED Types of Crustaceans 326 SAUCES 391 Classic Sauces and Preparations 329 Precautions for Preparing Tips for the Restaurant Chef 337 Mayonnaise 392 Tips on Cooking Lobsters 338 Repairing Broken Mayonnaise 392 Using Crustacean Flavors Storing Mayonnaise 392 with Meat and Fish 341 Classic Mayonnaise-Based Sauces 395 Improvising Crustacean Sauces 342 Contemporary Mayonnaise Garnitures for Crustaceans 346 Variations 399 Additional Sauces for Crustaceans 347 Mayonnaise-Based Shellfish Sauces 404 Combining Crustaceans with Mayonnaise-Based Meat Sauces 405 Other Shellfish 348 Improvising Mayonnaise- Based Sauces 406 CHAPTER 12 Tips for the Restaurant Chef 407 JELLIES AND CHAUDS-FROIDS 349 CHAPTER 15 Natural Meat Jelly 350 BUTTER SAUCES 409 Fish Jellies 354 Beurre Blanc Sauces 410 Flavoring Jellies 356 Broken Butter Sauces 412 Working with Jellies 363 Compound Butters 414 Improvising Jellies 371 Whipped Butters 421 Chauds-Froids 372 CHAPTER 16 CHAPTER 13 SALAD SAUCES, HOT EMULSIFIED VINAIGRETTES, EGG YOLK SAUCES 375 SALSAS, AND RELISHES 423 Precautions for Making Hot Cream-Based Cold Sauces 424 Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces 376 Yogurt-Based Cold Sauces 426 Repairing Broken Sauces 376 Oils, Vinegars, and Vinaigrettes 427 Storage 377 Salsas 445 Serving 377 Chutneys and Relishes 449 Classic Hot Egg Yolk Sauces 378 Fruit Sauces 454 Contemporary Variations 384 Improvising Emulsified Sauces 388 CONTENTS ● ix 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/31/08 3:23 PM Page x CHAPTER 17 CHAPTER 19 PURÉES AND PURÉE- ASIAN SAUCES 517 THICKENED SAUCES 457 Japanese Sauces 519 Equipment for Preparing Purées 458 Korean Sauces 530 Tomatoes 459 Thai, Vietnamese, and Tomatillos 463 Indonesian Sauces 531 Sorrel 464 Chinese Sauces 541 Garlic 466 Indian Sauces 547 Sweet Peppers 467 Potatoes 468 CHAPTER 20 Onions 472 DESSERT SAUCES 559 Parsley 473 Crème Anglaise 560 Watercress 475 Sabayons 564 Mushrooms 476 Chocolate Sauces 565 Cauliflower 477 Caramel Sauces 567 Root Vegetables 478 Fruit Sauces 570 Nuts 478 Pestos 485 APPENDIX Anchoïade 486 The Relative Thickening Power Beans and Other Legumes 488 of Liaisons 573 Using Purées with Other Methods 491 A Few Thoughts About Wine 573 GLOSSARY 583 CHAPTER 18 SOURCES 588 PASTA SAUCES 493 PURVEYORS 589 Pasta Styles 494 BIBLIOGRAPHY 591 A Note About Serving Sizes 494 INDEX 595 Olive Oil and Butter: The Base for the Simplest Sauces 495 Cream-Based Pasta Sauces 500 Sauces Based on Preserved Pork Products 502 Seafood Sauces 503 Vegetables Sauces 508 Meat Sauces 512 Tomato Sauces 514 x ● SAUCES 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page xi Recipe Contents Brown Beef-Bone Stock for CHAPTER 1 Meat Glace (Glace de Viande) 96 A SHORT HISTORY Oxtail–Red Wine Stock 97 OF SAUCE MAKING 1 Veal Stock 98 Spice Mixture 6 Brown Veal Stock 99 Gold-Plated Chicken with Modern Veal Demi-Glace 99 Ginger, Saffron, and Almonds 8 Chicken Demi-Glace 100 Leeks with Almond Milk, Fish Stock 100 Cinnamon, and Roses 10 Vegetable Stock (Court-Bouillon Chicken with Capers and Oysters 14 or Nage) 102 Chicken with Anchovies, Olives, Meat Glace (Glace de Viande) 104 Capers, and Orange Juice 16 Fish Glace (Glace de Poisson) 105 Meat Jus 106 CHAPTER 3 Mushroom Essence 107 INGREDIENTS 33 Japanese-Style Mushroom Sauce 107 Red Wine Mustard 40 Truffle Essence 108 Bouquet Garni 51 Vegetable Essences 108 Quatre Épices 73 Dried Chile Cream Sauce 82 CHAPTER 5 LIAISONS: AN OVERVIEW 109 CHAPTER 4 Braised Lamb Shanks with Shallots 112 STOCKS, GLACES, Roux 113 AND ESSENCES 87 Beurre Manié 114 Brown Chicken Stock 91 Gravy 115 Red Wine Chicken Stock 93 Pan Sauces Finished with Cream 119 White Chicken Stock 93 White Wine Sauce with Brown Beef Stock 94 Three Liaisons 120 xi 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page xii Butter-Thickened Made-to-Order Sauce Hongroise (Paprika Sauce) 150 Red Wine Sauce 122 Sauce Ravigote (Shallot and Sautéed Pigeon Breasts with Herb Sauce) 151 Giblet Sauce 123 Sauce Poulette (Mushroom Roast Chicken with Garlic and Lemon Sauce) 152 and Foie Gras 124 Tarragon Sauce 152 Roast Turkey with Jus, Sauce Régence Blanche (Rhine Wine, Gravy, or Giblet Gravy 125 Mushroom, and Truffle Sauce) 153 Vietnamese-Style Giblet Sauce 126 Sauce Villageoise (Mushroom Roasted and Braised Hare 127 and Onion Sauce) 153 Civet de Lapin (Braised Rabbit Stew) 129 Sauce Albuféra (Red Pepper Sauce) 154 Sauce Rouennaise I 131 Sauce Ivoire (Ivory Sauce) 154 Yogurt-Finished Fish Sauce 133 Veal Blanquette with Fresh Cheese 133 CHAPTER 7 Sauce Rouille 135 BROWN SAUCES 157 Saulce aulx Blans 135 Escoffier’s Demi-Glace and Saulce aulx Camelins 135 Sauce Espagnole 159 Saulce Verte 136 Modern Demi-Glace and Meat Glace Poivre Jaunet 136 (Glace de Viande) 161 Poivre Noir 136 Alternative Coulis 163 Sauce Chasseur (Mushroom Sauce CHAPTER 6 for Chicken) 166 WHITE SAUCES FOR Sauce Diable 170 MEAT AND VEGETABLES 137 Sauce Estragon (Tarragon Sauce) 171 Sauce Béchamel 139 Sauce Fines Herbes 171 Sauce Mornay 140 Sauce Godart (Prosciutto Sauce Soubise I 141 and Mushroom Sauce) 172 Sauce Crème 141 Sauce Hussarde (Prosciutto- Sauce Velouté 142 Scented Horseradish Sauce) 173 Sauce Suprême 142 Sauce Régence (Rhine Wine Sauce Allemande 142 and Truffle Sauce) 174 Butter-Enriched White Sauces 143 Sauce Robert (White Wine– White Sauces Based on Mustard Sauce) 175 Reduced Cream 144 Sauce Charcutière (White Wine Egg Yolk–Thickened White Sauces 145 and Gherkin Sauce) 175 Sauce Aurore Sauce Duxelles (Chopped (Tomato-Flavored Velouté) 146 Mushroom Sauce) 176 Sauce Bonnefoy Sauce Salmis 176 (White Wine Bordelaise) 147 Sauce Zingara B 177 Sauce Chivry (Herb Sauce) 148 Sauce Bordelaise 179 Curry Sauce 148 Bordelaise Sauce Made Sauce Estragon (Tarragon Sauce) 149 with Red Wine Stock 180 xii ● SAUCES 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page xiii Meurette Sauce (Burgundian Egg Yolk–Based Sauce Normande 207 Red Wine Sauce) 181 Sauce Anchois (Anchovy Sauce) 209 Sauce Rouennaise II 183 Sauce Aurore for Fish 209 Sauce Madère (Madeira Sauce) 183 Sauce Bercy 210 Sauce Porto (Port Sauce) 184 Sauce Matelote Blanche Port and Mushroom Sauce 184 (White Matelote Sauce) 210 Sauce Financière 184 Sauce Régence for Fish 210 Sauce Bigarade (Orange Sauce Sauce Vin Blanc for Duck) 185 (White Wine Fish Sauce) 211 Sauce Romaine (Raisin and Sauce Saint-Malo 211 211 Pine Nut Sauce for Game) 186 Sauce Souchet Sweet-and-Sour Sauce for Sauce Bavaroise (Bavarian Sauce) 212 Sauce Crevettes (Shrimp Sauce) 212 Ribs or Brisket 187 Sauce Diplomate 212 Marinade for Poivrade Sauces 188 Sauce Poivrade (Pepper-Flavored Sauce Homard (Lobster Sauce) 213 Sauce Joinville 213 Game Sauce) 188 Sea Urchin Sauce 213 Sauce Chevreuil (Red Wine Red Wine Sauce for Salmon 214 Sauce for Game) 189 Raïto 215 Sauce Grand-Veneur (Cream- Vinaigrette and Court- Finished Sauce Poivrade) 189 Bouillon–Based Chive Sauce 216 Sauce Diane (Whipped Cream and Coriander-Scented Clam Sauce 217 Truffle–Finished Game Sauce) 190 Tomato-Based Vinaigrette/ Sauce Moscovite (Juniper-Infused Hollandaise Sauce for Fish 218 Sauce Poivrade) 190 Smoked Salmon and Shrimp Sauce 218 Sauce
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