RECIPE CONTENTS Xi CHAPTER 3 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Xix INGREDIENTS 33 FOREWORD from the FIRST EDITION Xx

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Contents

RECIPE CONTENTS xi CHAPTER 3 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xix INGREDIENTS 33 FOREWORD FROM THE FIRST EDITION xx

PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION xxi Asian Sauces, Condiments, 34 PREFACE FROM THE FIRST EDITION xxv and Other Ingredients Condiments 40 CHAPTER 1 Dairy Products 45 A SHORT HISTORY Herbs 50 59 OF SAUCE MAKING 1 Mushrooms and Truffles Nuts and Seeds 65 Ancient Greek Cooking 3 Pork Products 66 Ancient Roman Cooking 3 Spices 67 Cooking in the Middle Ages 4 Spirits 75 Renaissance Cooking: Wine 77 The Sixteenth Century 9 Other Ingredients 81 The Seventeenth Century 11 The Eighteenth Century 15 CHAPTER 4 The Nineteenth Century 17 STOCKS, GLACES, The Twentieth Century 18 COPYRIGHTEDAND MATERIAL ESSENCES 87 CHAPTER 2 Stocks 88 104 EQUIPMENT 21 Glaces Jus 105 Cookware 22 Essences 106 Kitchen Tools and Utensils 27 Machines 31 Serving Utensils 32

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Derivative Brown Sauces CHAPTER 5 Without Wine or Vinegar 191 LIAISONS: AN OVERVIEW 109 Tips on Improving the How Liaisons Thicken 110 Flavor of Brown Sauces 195 Gelatin 111 Improvising Brown Sauces 197 Starches 113 Tips for the Restaurant Chef 200 Egg Yolks 116 Cream 117 CHAPTER 8 Butter 120 STOCK-BASED AND NON- Giblets and Foie Gras 122 INTEGRAL FISH SAUCES 201 Blood 128 Classic French Fish Sauces 202 Yogurt and Fresh Cheese 132 Combining Methods 209 Wine Lees 134 Sauces Using Scallop Coral 214 Coral 134 Contemporary Fish Sauces 215 Bread 134 Improvising Fish Sauces 219

CHAPTER 6 CHAPTER 9 WHITE SAUCES FOR INTEGRAL MEAT SAUCES 221 MEAT AND VEGETABLES 137 Integral Sauces for Sautéed Meats 222 Sauce Béchamel 138 Integral Sauces for Roasts: The Jus 227 Sauce Velouté 141 Integral Sauces Derived from Improvising White Sauces 154 Poached Meats 235 Integral Sauces Made from CHAPTER 7 Braised Meats 243 BROWN SAUCES 157 Steamed Meats 282 Demi-Glace and Coulis 158 Grilled Meats 284 Modern Methods for Tips for the Restaurant Chef 285 Making Brown Sauces 161 Naming Brown Sauces 164 CHAPTER 10 Integral Versus Stock- INTEGRAL FISH AND Based Brown Sauces 166 SHELLFISH SAUCES 287 White Wine–Based Derivative Basic Preparations and Ingredients 288 Brown Sauces 166 Poaching 289 Red Wine–Based Derivative Braising 296 Brown Sauces 178 Roasting 305 Derivative Brown Sauces Sautéing 306 Based on Fortified Wines 183 Steaming 308 Vinegar-Based Derivative Combining Methods: Fish Stews 311 Brown Sauces 184 Cooking Mollusks 318

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CHAPTER 11 CHAPTER 14 CRUSTACEAN SAUCES 325 MAYONNAISE-BASED

Types of Crustaceans 326 SAUCES 391 Classic Sauces and Preparations 329 Precautions for Preparing Tips for the Restaurant Chef 337 Mayonnaise 392 Tips on Cooking Lobsters 338 Repairing Broken Mayonnaise 392 Using Crustacean Flavors Storing Mayonnaise 392 with Meat and Fish 341 Classic Mayonnaise-Based Sauces 395 Improvising Crustacean Sauces 342 Contemporary Mayonnaise Garnitures for Crustaceans 346 Variations 399 Additional Sauces for Crustaceans 347 Mayonnaise-Based Shellfish Sauces 404 Combining Crustaceans with Mayonnaise-Based Meat Sauces 405 Other Shellfish 348 Improvising Mayonnaise- Based Sauces 406 CHAPTER 12 Tips for the Restaurant Chef 407 JELLIES AND CHAUDS-FROIDS 349 CHAPTER 15

Natural Meat Jelly 350 BUTTER SAUCES 409 Fish Jellies 354 Beurre Blanc Sauces 410 Flavoring Jellies 356 Broken Butter Sauces 412 Working with Jellies 363 Compound Butters 414 Improvising Jellies 371 Whipped Butters 421 Chauds-Froids 372 CHAPTER 16 CHAPTER 13 SALAD SAUCES, HOT EMULSIFIED VINAIGRETTES, EGG YOLK SAUCES 375 SALSAS, AND RELISHES 423

Precautions for Making Hot Cream-Based Cold Sauces 424 Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces 376 Yogurt-Based Cold Sauces 426 Repairing Broken Sauces 376 Oils, Vinegars, and Vinaigrettes 427 Storage 377 Salsas 445 Serving 377 Chutneys and Relishes 449 Classic Hot Egg Yolk Sauces 378 Fruit Sauces 454 Contemporary Variations 384 Improvising Emulsified Sauces 388

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CHAPTER 17 CHAPTER 19 PURÉES AND PURÉE- ASIAN SAUCES 517

THICKENED SAUCES 457 Japanese Sauces 519 Equipment for Preparing Purées 458 Korean Sauces 530 Tomatoes 459 Thai, Vietnamese, and Tomatillos 463 Indonesian Sauces 531 Sorrel 464 Chinese Sauces 541 Garlic 466 Indian Sauces 547 Sweet Peppers 467 Potatoes 468 CHAPTER 20 Onions 472 DESSERT SAUCES 559

Parsley 473 Crème Anglaise 560 Watercress 475 Sabayons 564 Mushrooms 476 Chocolate Sauces 565 Cauliflower 477 Caramel Sauces 567 Root Vegetables 478 Fruit Sauces 570 Nuts 478

Pestos 485 APPENDIX Anchoïade 486 The Relative Thickening Power Beans and Other Legumes 488 of Liaisons 573 Using Purées with Other Methods 491 A Few Thoughts About Wine 573 GLOSSARY 583

CHAPTER 18 SOURCES 588

PASTA SAUCES 493 PURVEYORS 589 Pasta Styles 494 BIBLIOGRAPHY 591 A Note About Serving Sizes 494 INDEX 595 Olive Oil and Butter: The Base for the Simplest Sauces 495 Cream-Based Pasta Sauces 500 Sauces Based on Preserved Pork Products 502 Seafood Sauces 503 Vegetables Sauces 508 Meat Sauces 512 Tomato Sauces 514

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Recipe Contents

Brown Beef-Bone Stock for CHAPTER 1 Meat Glace (Glace de Viande) 96 A SHORT HISTORY Oxtail–Red Wine Stock 97 OF SAUCE MAKING 1 Veal Stock 98 Spice Mixture 6 Brown Veal Stock 99 Gold-Plated Chicken with Modern Veal Demi-Glace 99 Ginger, Saffron, and Almonds 8 Chicken Demi-Glace 100 Leeks with Almond Milk, Fish Stock 100 Cinnamon, and Roses 10 Vegetable Stock (Court-Bouillon Chicken with Capers and Oysters 14 or Nage) 102 Chicken with Anchovies, Olives, Meat Glace (Glace de Viande) 104 Capers, and Orange Juice 16 Fish Glace (Glace de Poisson) 105 Meat Jus 106 CHAPTER 3 Mushroom Essence 107 INGREDIENTS 33 Japanese-Style Mushroom Sauce 107 Red Wine Mustard 40 Truffle Essence 108 Bouquet Garni 51 Vegetable Essences 108 Quatre Épices 73 Dried Chile Cream Sauce 82 CHAPTER 5 LIAISONS: AN OVERVIEW 109 CHAPTER 4 Braised Lamb Shanks with Shallots 112 STOCKS, GLACES, Roux 113 AND ESSENCES 87 Beurre Manié 114 Brown Chicken Stock 91 Gravy 115 Red Wine Chicken Stock 93 Pan Sauces Finished with Cream 119 White Chicken Stock 93 White Wine Sauce with Brown Beef Stock 94 Three Liaisons 120

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Butter-Thickened Made-to-Order Sauce Hongroise (Paprika Sauce) 150 Red Wine Sauce 122 Sauce Ravigote (Shallot and Sautéed Pigeon Breasts with Herb Sauce) 151 Giblet Sauce 123 Sauce Poulette (Mushroom Roast Chicken with Garlic and Lemon Sauce) 152 and Foie Gras 124 Tarragon Sauce 152 Roast Turkey with Jus, Sauce Régence Blanche (Rhine Wine, Gravy, or Giblet Gravy 125 Mushroom, and Truffle Sauce) 153 Vietnamese-Style Giblet Sauce 126 Sauce Villageoise (Mushroom Roasted and Braised Hare 127 and Onion Sauce) 153 Civet de Lapin (Braised Rabbit Stew) 129 Sauce Albuféra (Red Pepper Sauce) 154 Sauce Rouennaise I 131 Sauce Ivoire (Ivory Sauce) 154 Yogurt-Finished Fish Sauce 133 Veal Blanquette with Fresh Cheese 133 CHAPTER 7 Sauce Rouille 135 BROWN SAUCES 157 Saulce aulx Blans 135 Escoffier’s Demi-Glace and Saulce aulx Camelins 135 Sauce Espagnole 159 Saulce Verte 136 Modern Demi-Glace and Meat Glace Poivre Jaunet 136 (Glace de Viande) 161 Poivre Noir 136 Alternative Coulis 163 Sauce Chasseur (Mushroom Sauce CHAPTER 6 for Chicken) 166 WHITE SAUCES FOR Sauce Diable 170 MEAT AND VEGETABLES 137 Sauce Estragon (Tarragon Sauce) 171 Sauce Béchamel 139 Sauce Fines Herbes 171 Sauce Mornay 140 Sauce Godart (Prosciutto Sauce Soubise I 141 and Mushroom Sauce) 172 Sauce Crème 141 Sauce Hussarde (Prosciutto- Sauce Velouté 142 Scented Horseradish Sauce) 173 Sauce Suprême 142 Sauce Régence (Rhine Wine Sauce Allemande 142 and Truffle Sauce) 174 Butter-Enriched White Sauces 143 Sauce Robert (White Wine– White Sauces Based on Mustard Sauce) 175 Reduced Cream 144 Sauce Charcutière (White Wine Egg Yolk–Thickened White Sauces 145 and Gherkin Sauce) 175 Sauce Aurore Sauce Duxelles (Chopped (Tomato-Flavored Velouté) 146 Mushroom Sauce) 176 Sauce Bonnefoy Sauce Salmis 176 (White Wine Bordelaise) 147 Sauce Zingara B 177 Sauce Chivry (Herb Sauce) 148 Sauce Bordelaise 179 Curry Sauce 148 Bordelaise Sauce Made Sauce Estragon (Tarragon Sauce) 149 with Red Wine Stock 180

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Meurette Sauce (Burgundian Egg Yolk–Based Sauce Normande 207 Red Wine Sauce) 181 Sauce Anchois (Anchovy Sauce) 209 Sauce Rouennaise II 183 Sauce Aurore for Fish 209 Sauce Madère (Madeira Sauce) 183 Sauce Bercy 210 Sauce Porto (Port Sauce) 184 Sauce Matelote Blanche Port and Mushroom Sauce 184 (White Matelote Sauce) 210 Sauce Financière 184 Sauce Régence for Fish 210 Sauce Bigarade (Orange Sauce Sauce Vin Blanc for Duck) 185 (White Wine Fish Sauce) 211 Sauce Romaine (Raisin and Sauce Saint-Malo 211 211 Pine Nut Sauce for Game) 186 Sauce Souchet Sweet-and-Sour Sauce for Sauce Bavaroise (Bavarian Sauce) 212 Sauce Crevettes (Shrimp Sauce) 212 Ribs or Brisket 187 Sauce Diplomate 212 Marinade for Poivrade Sauces 188 Sauce Poivrade (Pepper-Flavored Sauce Homard (Lobster Sauce) 213 Sauce Joinville 213 Game Sauce) 188 Sea Urchin Sauce 213 Sauce Chevreuil (Red Wine Red Wine Sauce for Salmon 214 Sauce for Game) 189 Raïto 215 Sauce Grand-Veneur (Cream- Vinaigrette and Court- Finished Sauce Poivrade) 189 Bouillon–Based Chive Sauce 216 Sauce Diane (Whipped Cream and Coriander-Scented Clam Sauce 217 Truffle–Finished Game Sauce) 190 Tomato-Based Vinaigrette/ Sauce Moscovite (Juniper-Infused Hollandaise Sauce for Fish 218 Sauce Poivrade) 190 Smoked Salmon and Shrimp Sauce 218 Sauce Piquante 190 Sauce Zingara A 191 CHAPTER 9 Sauce Périgueux and INTEGRAL MEAT SAUCES 221 Sauce Périgourdine 192 Poulet Sauté à la Marengo Tournedos Rossini (Filets of (Chicken with Tomatoes, Beef with Sauce Périgueux) 192 Olives, and Mushrooms) 225 Sauce aux Champignons Steak with Green Peppercorn Sauce 226 (Mushroom Sauce) 193 Pork Chops with Modern Soubise 226 Sauce Italienne 194 Oven-Roasted Chicken with Natural Jus 230 CHAPTER 8 Roast Saddle of Veal 231 STOCK-BASED AND NON- Roast Rack of Lamb with INTEGRAL FISH SAUCES 201 Natural Jus 232 Fish Velouté 204 Roast Saddle of Lamb with Classic Sauce Normande 205 Natural Jus 233 Cream-Based Sauce Normande 206 Pot au Feu 237 Butter-Based Sauce Normande 207 Beef à la Ficelle 238

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Duck à la Ficelle 238 Poularde à la Vapeur Bollito Misto 238 (Steamed Chicken) 282 Mostarda di Cremona 239 Poulet “en Vessie” (Steamed Chicken Green Sauce 240 with Stuffed Morels) 283 Poached Chicken 241 Grilled Game Birds in Poached Chicken with Smoke-Scented Broth 284 Cream and Egg Yolks 241 Étouffée of Veal Shoulder Clod 251 CHAPTER 10 Pot-Roasted Veal Shoulder INTEGRAL FISH AND Clod (Poêlage) 252 SHELLFISH SAUCES 287 Brown-Braised Veal Shoulder Clod 253 Sea Scallops à la Nage 291 Round of Veal Etouvé 254 Sea Scallops with Butter- Osso Buco with Julienned Vegetables 255 Enriched Nage 292 Braised Sweetbreads 257 Sea Scallops à la Nage Braised Short Ribs 258 with Vinaigrette 292 Chinese-Style Braised Short Ribs 259 Sea Scallops à la Nage Red Wine Pot Roast 260 with Vegetable Purée 293 Pork Shoulder Chops with Lobster à la Nage I 294 White Wine and Prunes 261 Bourride (Nage Bound Red Wine Beef Stew 262 with Mayonnaise) 294 Boeuf Bourguignon 264 Fillets of Sole Bercy 296 Beef Irish Stew 265 Braised Whole Flatfish with Poulet en Cocotte (Whole Chicken Cockles and Norman Butter 297 in a Casserole) 267 Coq au Vin Sole Marguery 299 Skate with Capers, Mushrooms, (Rooster Braised in Red Wine) 268 Chicken with Red Wine Sauce Artichokes, and Pomegranate Seeds or Red Currants 300 (Sometimes Called Coq au Vin) 269 300 Cold Red Wine–Chicken Daube 270 Fillets of Sole Bonne Femme 300 Chicken Fricassée 271 Fillets of Sole Bordelaise Chicken with Prunes and Spices 272 Fillets of Sole Crécy 301 Chicken with Verjuice, Saffron, Fillets of Sole Dugléré 301 Medieval Spices, and Mint 273 Fillets of Sole Foyot 301 Chicken Tagine 274 Fillets of Sole Thermidor 301 Harissa Sauce 275 Fillets of Sole Véronique 301 Chicken Mole 276 Fillets of Sole with Lobster Sauce 303 Chicken with Tomatillo Halibut Braised with Cockles 303 and Assorted Chile Sauces 277 Fillets of Sole with Tomatillo Chicken in the Style of a Vatapá 278 and Pepper Sauce 304 Chicken with Morels 278 Sautéed Salmon Fillet Braised Duck Thighs 280 with Sorrel Cream Sauce 307 Duck Breasts with Peaches Steamed Bass Fillets with or Other Fruits 281 Yogurt Curry Sauce 309

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Salmon en Papillote with Sherry Duck Jelly 360 Julienned Vegetables 310 Fines Herbes Jelly 361 Red Wine Matelotes 314 Morel Jelly 362 Squid with Red Wine Sauce 316 Saffron and Tomato Fish Jelly 362 Octopus Daube 316 Salade Grecque in Court-Bouillon Oysters with Champagne Sauce 319 Jelly 363 Scallops Étouffées with Chives 320 Foie Gras “en Gelée” 365 Gratinéed Mussels with Jambon Persillé Saffron Hollandaise 321 (Parsleyed Ham Terrine) 366 Boeuf Mode (Cold Braised Beef) 367 CHAPTER 11 Salmon and Truffle Hure 369 CRUSTACEAN SAUCES 325 Chicken Breasts with Smoked Jelly 370

Crustacean Butter 329 Sorrel Chaud-Froid 373 Crustacean Oil 330 Butters with Whole Crustaceans 330 CHAPTER 13 Classic Sauce Américaine 330 HOT EMULSIFIED Classic Sauce Cardinal 334 EGG YOLK SAUCES 375 Classic Sauce Nantua 334 Sauce Béarnaise 378 Contemporary Sauce Cardinal Sauce Hollandaise 381 and Sauce Nantua 334 Sauce Choron (Sauce Béarnaise Crayfish Sauce 335 with Tomato) 382 Sauce Homard (Lobster Sauce) 337 Sauce Maltaise (Orange-Flavored Sauce Newburg 337 Sauce Hollandaise) 382 Sauce Orientale 337 Sauce Mousseline (Hollandaise with Sauce Bavarian 337 Whipped Cream) 382 Steamed Lobster with Parsley Sauce 339 Sauce Noisette (Noisette Butter Sauce) 382 Lobster à la Nage II 340 Sauce Foyot or Valois (Sauce Chicken with Crayfish 341 Béarnaise with Meat Glace) 383 Japanese-Style Crab Sauce 342 Sauce Tyrolienne (Oil-Based Mixed Shellfish Fricassée 348 Sauce Béarnaise) 383 Sauce Rubens (Anchovy and CHAPTER 12 Crustacean Sauce for Fish) 383 JELLIES AND Braised Fillets of Sea Bass CHAUDS-FROIDS 349 with Sabayon Sauce 387

Classic Meat Jelly 351 Clarification for Meat Jelly 353 CHAPTER 14 Classic Fish Jelly 354 MAYONNAISE-BASED Court-Bouillon Jelly 355 SAUCES 391 Red Wine Meat Jelly 357 Traditional Mayonnaise 393 Port and Cracked-Pepper Sabayon-Style Mayonnaise 394 Jelly for Foie Gras 358 Sauce Verte (Green Mayonnaise) 395 Lobster with Sauternes Jelly 359 Sauce Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise) 396

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Saffron-Flavored Aïoli 396 Montpellier Butter 417 Sauce Andalouse (Tomato and Sweet Mustard Butter 418 Red Pepper Mayonnaise) 396 Paprika Butter 418 Sauce Chantilly (Mayonnaise with Smoked Salmon Butter 418 Whipped Cream) 397 Snail Butter 418 Mustard-Flavored Mayonnaise 397 Sweet Red Pepper Butter 418 Sauce Rémoulade (Caper and Tarragon Butter 419 Herb Mayonnaise) 398 Tomato Butter 419 Sauce Suédoise (Apple-Horseradish Truffle Butter 419 Mayonnaise) 398 Sea Scallop Coral Butter 419 Sauce Gribiche 399 Sea Urchin Roe Butter 420 Sauce Tartare (Tartar Sauce) 399 Caviar Butter 420 Hazelnut Mayonnaise 400 Spice Butters 420 Salmon with Hazelnut Mayonnaise 400 Herb Butters 420 Cilantro and Hot Pepper Mayonnaise 401 Pigeon Sauce 421 Morel Mayonnaise 401 Foie Gras Butter 421 Curry Yogurt Mayonnaise 403 Whipped Butter for Grilled Eggless “Mayonnaise” 403 or Sautéed Fish 422 Sabayon-Based Lobster Mayonnaise 405 Lobster Coral Mayonnaise 405 CHAPTER 16 SALAD SAUCES, CHAPTER 15 VINAIGRETTES, BUTTER SAUCES 409 SALSAS, AND RELISHES 423

Traditional Beurre Blanc Shrimp Cocktail 424 (Beurre Nantais) 410 Herb-Scented Thickened Cream Beurre Rouge for Salads 425 (Red Wine–Butter Sauce) 412 Cultured Cream 425 Beurre Citron (Lemon Beurre Blanc) 412 Mint and Cilantro Yogurt Sauce 426 Beurre Fondu (Emulsified Butter) 412 Cold-Infused Herb Oil 428 Beurre Noisette 412 Basil or Chervil Oil 429 Fillets of Sole à la Meunière 413 Ancho Chile Oil 430 Beurre Noir 414 Chinese-Style Chile Oil 431 Almond Butter 415 Sweet Red Pepper Oil 431 Anchovy Butter 416 Tomato Oil 432 Bercy Butter 416 Morel or Porcini Oil 433 Chivry Butter 416 Spice-Infused Oils 433 Chlorophyll Butter 416 Provençal Herb Vinegar 434 Colbert Butter 417 Orange Vinegar 435 Garlic Butter 417 Raspberry Vinegar 435 Maître d’ Butter (Beurre Maître Basic Vinaigrette for Green Salads 437 d’Hôtel) 417 Creamy Vinaigrette for Salads 438 Marchand de Vin Butter 417 Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette 438

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Wild Mushroom–Walnut Oil Salad 439 Stiff Parsley Purée 473 Salsa Verde 440 Plain Parsley Purée for Sauce Ravigote 440 Finishing Sauces 474 Mint Sauce for Lamb 441 Watercress Purée 475 Hot Tomato Vinaigrette 442 Mushroom Purée 476 Warm Sweet Red Pepper and Red Wine–Mushroom Sauces 477 Garlic Vinaigrette 443 Cauliflower and Galangal Sauce 477 Basil Vinaigrette for Roast Lamb 444 Nut Butters 479 Hot Hazelnut and Parsley Vinaigrette 444 Cardamom–Nut Butter Sauce 479 Mexican Salsa 445 Nut Curry Sauce 480 Vegetable Brunoise for Grilled Cashew Sauce 480 Fowl or Fish 447 Cashew Paste 481 Truffle Salsa 447 Picada (Garlic-Almond Purée) 481 Tropical Fruit Salsa 448 Chestnut Purée 482 Sweet-and-Sour Fruit Chutney 450 Shrimp with Coconut and Green Tomato Chutney 451 Peanut Sauce 483 Kumquat Relish 451 Walnut and Parmesan Cheese Caper and Cornichon Relish 452 Sauce for Pasta 484 Tomato and Onion Chutney 452 Genoese Pesto 485 Cilantro or Mint Chutney 453 Indian Mint Pesto 486 Cumberland Sauce 454 Anchoïade 486 Cranberry Sauce 454 Tapenade 486 Tamarind Sauce 455 Green Olive and Caper Tapenade 487 Fava Bean Purée 489 CHAPTER 17 Lentil Purée 490 PURÉES AND PURÉE- Red Wine Sauce Finished THICKENED SAUCES 457 with Lentil Purée 490

Raw Tomato Concassée 460 White or Flageolet Bean Purée 491 Cooked Tomato Concassée 461 Watercress and Mushroom Sauce Tomato Coulis 461 for Fish 491 Tomatillo Sauce 464 Parsley Sabayon Sauce 492 Sorrel Purée 465 Sorrel Sauce for Fish 465 CHAPTER 18 Baked Garlic Purée 467 PASTA SAUCES 493 Sweet Pepper Purée 468 Pasta with Butter or Olive Oil 496 Sweet Red Pepper Vinaigrette 468 Pasta with Butter and Sage Potato Purée 469 (Fettuccine con Burro e Salvia) 498 Skorthaliá (Potato-Garlic Purée) 470 Spaghetti with Streetwalker’s Sauce Poached Chicken with Tarragon 470 (Spaghetti alla Puttanesca) 498 Potato-Thickened Sauce for Pork 471 Spaghetti with Black Truffles, Sauce Soubise II 472 Garlic, and Anchovies Stewed Onion Purée 472 (Spaghetti alla Norcina) 499

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Pappardelle with Dried Porcini Mush- Chicken, Meat, or Vegetable Yakitori 525 rooms (Pappardelle ai Porcini Secchi) 500 Tosa Sauce 526 Ravioli or Tagliatelle with Walnut Ponzu Sauce 527 Sauce (Ravioli o Tagliatelle Miso Sauce 528 con Salsa di Noci) 501 Basic Japanese Salad Dressing 528 Spaghetti with Pancetta, Eggs, Korean Vinegar Dipping Sauce 530 and Parmesan Cheese Vietnamese Spicy Fish Sauce (Spaghetti alla Carbonara) 502 (Nuoc Cham) 533 Spaghetti with Clams or Mussels Thai Red Curry Paste 534 (Spaghetti alle Cozze o Vongole) 504 Thai Green Curry Paste 535 Spaghetti with Squid or Baby Octopus Improvising Thai Curries (Spaghetti al Ragù di Totano) 505 Without Curry Pastes 537 Fettuccine and Shrimp with Thai Curry Model 538 Crustacean Cream Sauce Basic Stir-Fry 542 (Fettuccine alla Crèma di Scampi) 506 Chinese Ginger- and Garlic-Flavored Spaghetti with Tuna “Vinaigrette” 545 (Spaghetti col Tonno) 507 Sweet and Spicy Sesame Sauce 545 Spaghetti with Artichokes, Garlic, Chinese Mustard Sauce 546 and Parsley (Spaghetti e Carciofi) 508 Traditional Garam Masala Orecchiette with Cooked Green (Moghul Garam Masala) 550 and Leafy Vegetables Modern Garam Masala (Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa) 510 (Punjabi Garam Masala) 551 Fettuccine with Peas Bengali Spice Mixture (Panch Phoran) 551 (Fettuccine con i Piselli) 511 Sambaar Powder 552 Ragù 512 Basic Curry Powder 552 Pappardelle with Tuscan Curry Model 553 Duck Sauce (Pappardelle Aretine) 513 Lamb Curry with Garam Masala Macaroni with Baked Tomato Sauce and Mixed Vegetables 557 (Maccheroni con Pomidori al Forno) 515 CHAPTER 20 CHAPTER 19 DESSERT SAUCES 559

ASIAN SAUCES 517 Crème Anglaise 560 Primary Dashi 520 Sabayon 564 Basic Japanese Broth-Like Sauce Ganache 566 with Mirin, Soy Sauce, and Sake 522 Chocolate Butter Sauce 567 Salmon with Basic Japanese Caramel Cream Sauce 568 Broth-Like Sauce 522 Caramel Butter Sauce 568 Grilled Swordfish with Clams Butterscotch Sauce 569 and Broth-Like Miso Sauce 523 Pear-Butterscotch Sauce 569 Teriyaki Sauce 524 Raspberry Coulis 571 Teriyaki-Glazed Fish, Steak, Cranberry Coulis 571 or Chicken 524 Pear Coulis 572 Yakitori Sauce 525 Kiwi Coulis 572

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