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Flavors of the Saucier: Stocks, Sauces, and Soups Chef Amelie Zeringue with William R
Flavors of the Saucier: Stocks, Sauces, and Soups Chef Amelie Zeringue With William R. Thibodeaux Ph.D. ii | S t o c k s , S auces, & Soups Stocks, Sauces, & Soups | iii Flavors of the Saucier: Stocks, Sauces, and Soups Chef Amelie Zeringue With William R. Thibodeaux Ph.D. iv | S t o c k s , S auces, & Soups Stocks, Sauces, & Soups | v Contents Preface: viii Flavors of the Saucier: Stocks, Sauces, & Soups Chapter 1: Introduction and History of Sauce 1 Chapter 2: Light Stocks 23 Chapter 3: Brown Stocks and Demi-Glace 45 Chapter 4: Sauces and Thickening Agents 55 Chapter 5: Demi-Based Sauces 73 Chapter 6: Bechamel Based Sauces 81 Chapter 7: Veloute Based Sauces 89 Chapter 8: Tomato Based Sauces 95 Chapter 9: Hollandaise Based Sauces 101 Chapter 10: Miscellaneous Sauces 113 Chapter 11: Soups 119 Chapter 12: Gumbos 133 Chapter 13: Pureed, Thick Soups 137 Chapter 14: Bisques and Cream Soups 141 Chapter 15: Broth Based Soups 145 vi | S t o c k s , S auces, & Soups Notes: 151 Glossary: 153 Appendix: 185 Measurement and conversion charts: 187 Tree of Sauces: 189 Classification of Sauces: 191 Sauces & Terminology: 193 Design Principles for Plating Food: 215 Professional Associations: 221 Stocks, Sauces, & Soups | vii Limit of Liability/disclaimer of warranty and Safety: The user is expressly advised to consider and use all safety precautions described in this book or that might be indicated by undertaking the activities described in this book. Common sense must also be used to avoid all potential hazards and, in particular, to take relevant safety precautions concerning likely or known hazards involving food preparation, or in the use of the procedures described in this book. -
RECIPE CONTENTS Xi CHAPTER 3 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Xix INGREDIENTS 33 FOREWORD from the FIRST EDITION Xx
02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page vii Contents RECIPE CONTENTS xi CHAPTER 3 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xix INGREDIENTS 33 FOREWORD FROM THE FIRST EDITION xx PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION xxi Asian Sauces, Condiments, 34 PREFACE FROM THE FIRST EDITION xxv and Other Ingredients Condiments 40 CHAPTER 1 Dairy Products 45 A SHORT HISTORY Herbs 50 59 OF SAUCE MAKING 1 Mushrooms and Truffles Nuts and Seeds 65 Ancient Greek Cooking 3 Pork Products 66 Ancient Roman Cooking 3 Spices 67 Cooking in the Middle Ages 4 Spirits 75 Renaissance Cooking: Wine 77 The Sixteenth Century 9 Other Ingredients 81 The Seventeenth Century 11 The Eighteenth Century 15 CHAPTER 4 The Nineteenth Century 17 STOCKS, GLACES, The Twentieth Century 18 COPYRIGHTEDAND MATERIAL ESSENCES 87 CHAPTER 2 Stocks 88 104 EQUIPMENT 21 Glaces Jus 105 Cookware 22 Essences 106 Kitchen Tools and Utensils 27 Machines 31 Serving Utensils 32 vii 02_194966-ftoc.qxp 7/7/08 1:43 PM Page viii Derivative Brown Sauces CHAPTER 5 Without Wine or Vinegar 191 LIAISONS: AN OVERVIEW 109 Tips on Improving the How Liaisons Thicken 110 Flavor of Brown Sauces 195 Gelatin 111 Improvising Brown Sauces 197 Starches 113 Tips for the Restaurant Chef 200 Egg Yolks 116 Cream 117 CHAPTER 8 Butter 120 STOCK-BASED AND NON- Giblets and Foie Gras 122 INTEGRAL FISH SAUCES 201 Blood 128 Classic French Fish Sauces 202 Yogurt and Fresh Cheese 132 Combining Methods 209 Wine Lees 134 Sauces Using Scallop Coral 214 Coral 134 Contemporary Fish Sauces 215 Bread 134 Improvising Fish Sauces 219 CHAPTER 6 CHAPTER 9 WHITE SAUCES FOR INTEGRAL -
The Flavour Thesaurus
The Flavor Thesaurus A Compendium of Pairings, Recipes and Ideas for the Creative Cook Niki Segnit It seems fitting to dedicate this book to a pair: my cooking adviser and mother, Marian Stevens, and my writing adviser and husband, Nat Segnit. Contents Introduction ROASTED MEATY CHEESY EARTHY MUSTARDY SULFUROUS MARINE BRINE & SALT GREEN & GRASSY SPICY WOODLAND FRESH FRUITY CREAMY FRUITY CITRUSY BERRY & BUSH FLORAL FRUITY Bibliography A Note on the Author Copyright Page “. lamb and apricots are one of those combinations which exist together in a relation that is not just complementary but that seems to partake of a higher order of inevitability—a taste which exists in the mind of God. These combinations have the quality of a logical discovery: bacon and eggs, rice and soy sauce, Sauternes and foie gras, white truffles and pasta, steak-frites, strawberries and cream, lamb and garlic, Armagnac and prunes, port and Stilton, fish soup and rouille, chicken and mushrooms; to the committed explorer of the senses, the first experience of any of them will have an impact comparable with an astronomer’s discovery of a new planet.” John Lanchester, The Debt to Pleasure Introduction I hadn’t realized the depth of my dependence on cookbooks until I noticed that my copy of Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking had fingernail marks running below the recipes. Here was stark evidence of my timidity, an insistence on clinging to a set of instructions, like a handrail in the dark, when after twenty years of cooking I should surely have been well enough versed in the basics to let go and trust my instincts. -
Sensing Race Against Representation in the Experimental
SENSING RACE AGAINST REPRESENTATION IN THE EXPERIMENTAL WRITINGS OF GERTRUDE STEIN: 1910–1940 by Jean L. Neely A Dissertation Presented to the FACULTY OF THE USC GRADUATE SCHOOL UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY (ENGLISH) May 2012 Copyright 2012 Jean L. Neely ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I owe much thanks to my entire family and community for supporting me in this work. Thanks to Mike and Joshua Neely for endless grace, love, and unspeakable joy in all the craziness. Thanks to my parents, In Young Lee and Reverend Byung Sun Lee, for their unconditional love and support. Thanks to my sister, Amy Kim, for indispensable sister-love and cherished friendship. Thanks to my grandmother, Sun Ae Lee (for helping to raise us and for my first and only piano, always a source of joy and comfort); to all my grandparents for their loving faith, amazing endurance through colonization and exile, and countless sunrise prayers; all my aunts, uncles, and cousins on both the Lee and Paik sides of the family for prayers, love and all sorts of support, and especially to Miyoung Emo—anything but a “little aunt”—for all her creative and spiritual encouragement; and to all the Neely side of the family—Grandmom and Grandpop, Bonnie, Julie, Pat, Randy, Johnny, Pam, and Jeannie—for taking me into your fold. I thank David Lloyd for being the best advisor a student could hope for, in particular for all his guidance and help in the thinking through of the aesthetic (and the Aesthetic), taste (and Taste), representation, race, and poetry within reigning structures of oppression, and for always understanding and drawing out what I might have to say before I’m able to say it. -
Copyrighted Material
43_663743_bindex.qxd 12/19/05 12:18 PM Page 1047 Subject Index Acid: Bones,in stock,150,152,153,156 cooking with,816-818 Cross-contamination,25,28 and bacterial growth,18 Boulanger,M.,4 in sandwiches,738 Crudité,760 and connective tissue,65 Bouquet garni,152 on buffets,888,889 Cryovac,262 in consommé production,211 Brains,280 pastry filling,923 Cuisson,483 and curdling of milk,809 Braising,70 storage and service,816 Cured foods,825-831 and egg foams,789 fish,458 varieties,812-816 Custard,799,1007-1008,1010 and fiber,506 meat,331-348 Cheese recipes,see Recipe Index Cutting loss,110 in marinades,141 poultry,410-422 Chef,9,10 Cutting techniques,basic,134-140 in stock,151 sausages,838 Chemical poisoning,16,24-25 Cuttlefish,446 and vegetable pigments,508-510 vegetables,559-565 Chicken,352-363 Aging,of meat,261-262 Bread: braising,410-421 Dairy products,807-818.See also Butter; Allergen,24 faults of,915 broiling and grilling,376-380 Cheese;Cream;Milk Amaranth,620 for sandwiches,736 cutting,360-363 in vegetarian diet,656,658,661 Amino acid,657-658 mixing and production methods, deep-frying,383-384,386,394 Danish pastry,910,920-929 Ammonia,baking,905 910-914,924-926 free range,352 Deep fryers,47-48 Amuse bouche,765-766 quick,931-937 roasting and baking,366-374 Deep-frying,73 Antelope,283 storage,736,914 sautéing and pan-frying,383-398 fish,479-481 Antipasto,764 types,910 simmering and poaching,399-407 potatoes,602-605 AP (as purchased) measurement,100, Bread recipes,see Recipe Index Chicken recipes,see Recipe Index poultry,383-384,386,394 108 Breading,142-143