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Welcome to ...... 2

22 Top Experiences ...... 6 Welcome to Need to Know ...... 18 Cyprus What’s New ...... 20 If You Like ...... 21 Month by Month ...... 23

Life Outdoors ...... 25 18 Itineraries ...... 33 Need to COUNTRYCCOUNTRY &&CI CITYCITYY PHRASEBOOKPHRRASEBOOK Currency Languag TheTh originali i l Know Crossing» Republic the of Line Cyprus: » Republi c beaches, including everythi • euro (€) Cypriot Gre and windswept to family Experiencing the intrinsically diՖ erent » Northern Cyprus: » Norther n packed. Every conceivable Eat & Drink Like a Local ... 37 Greek and Turkish societies of modern new Turkish lira (YTL) Turkish is also on oՖ er, from scub • Comprehensive Cyprus is increasingly easy for visitors. watery depths to skimming To date, there are seven access points a kite- or windsurf board. T linking the Greek Cypriot and Turkish blue? Head to the interior w • Adventurous Travel with Children ...... 41 Cypriot sides, including two pedes trian mountains, sweeping valley When to Go iiLfkiIhfiYour Budge Budget Regions at a Glance ...... 43 €60 » Budget h room (with with elaborate Á oral bathroom) decorations, culminating » Excellen January March in a spectacular À rework and superm Weather-wise January Enjoy wildflowers, À nale. self-catere is generally mild, but particularly orchids, with » Check ou the Troödos mountains more than 32 endemic with free e plus free to can be snow-capped, so varieties. Birdwatching, 00-welcome-to-cyprus-cyp5.indd 2 03/11/2011 11:44 remember to pack your hiking and the occasional May organised w skis. Tourism is down sunbed on the sand make A great month to visit Midrang Looking for other travel resources? and some resort-based this a good month for a with plenty of towel space restaurants and hotels springtime break. on the sand, an average €60 are closed. temperature of 26°C, and warmer evenings for 120 Agia Napa z International dining alfresco. » Double r Pafos & the Larnaka & Lefkosia z Cultural Winter Documentary Film midrange h Enjoy free concerts, recitals Festival Bellapais Music » Three-co West the East (Nicosia) and dance performances View the cherry-picked z Festival decent rest Centred on Bellapais Abbey, every Thursday at 8pm at international documen- High Season Shoulder Low Season plus wine this festival starts waving the Agia Napa Municipal taries at this excellent (Jun–Aug, public Season (Mar–Jun (Nov–Feb) » Top mus Beaches 333 Activities 333 Museums 333 Conference Hall (www.agia the baton on 21 May with festival; great for getting holidays) & Sep–Oct) » Skiing in the galleries an Sites 333 Nightlife 3 Shopping 33 napa.org.cy). concerts and recitals (www a perspective on Cypriot » Accommodation » Ideal time to travel; Troödos. average €6 Nature 33 Beaches 33 Restaurants 33 issues (www.À lmfestival .bellapaisfestival.com). books out; prices pleasant weather and » Can be wet and Top End .com.cy). increase up to 30%. fewer crowds. cool or pleasantly February €12 Best Beaches Water Sports & Museums & The weather is mild, so June You can still À nd Swimming Galleries good for cycling and April The weather is a delight unspoiled beaches One of the world’s The island’s best, the hiking the trails (although The temperature can with an average of 11 hours of sunshine daily. here, especially on top-10 diving wrecks Cyprus Museum, it can be wet). It’s also be perfect but you can fiesta time with the expect crowds and Book accommodation well the Akamas Penin- is just oՖ the coast should not be high-octane annual ahead: it’s the start of the sula. Closer to Pafos, a hike in flight and at Larnaka, plus missed. Folk art, carnival. accommodation prices: serious summer hols. there are more there is plenty of local history, Otto- it’s school-holiday time pleasant stretches, scope for snorkel- man memorabilia Cl i C many with adjacent ling, windsurÀ ng, and world-class art z 2 tavernas, where you kite-boarding, boat can also be enjoyed 02-need-to-know-cyp5.indd 18 03/11/2011 11:44 can grab a bite over- rides and swimming in the culturally looking the surf. (particularly around rich capital. the sea caves). Magnificent Superb Mosaics Nightlife Shopping The Pafos Archaeo- Although it has Shift your credit logical Site, with tamed down a card into overdrive its superb mosaics, double measure, or with the New City’s should be your À rst more, since its wild extensive choice of 05-month-by-month-cyp5.indd 23 03/11/2011 11:46 stop, but don’t make heyday, Agia Napa classy shops. For it your only one; still has the most more unusual À nds, visit the other sites, concentrated (and head for the idiosyn- including the Tombs spirited) nightlife on cratic small shops of the Kings and the the island in the backstreets of

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 213 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine can make sense of what you see CYPRUS10-regions-at-a-glance-cyp5.indd 44 03/11/2011 11:49

Cyprus Today ...... 214 population per sq km History ...... 216 CYPRUS UK GREECE Lonely Planet in numbers

The Cypriot Way of Life ... 229 bullets. The shots came from the nearby Turkish Cypriot gu ≈ 86 people from bushes sheltering armed soldiers. Solomos’ death was 70 12 100,000,000 190+ replayed at the viewing points that overlook the tragic site o Cyprus’ Natural languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered Cyprus Today by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet Environment ...... 232 1974 reek junta organises Turkish CHRIS CHRISTO/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © on our Thorn Tree guide coup. Turkish army esta Peace Talks, the Never-Ending Cycle? Since its division in 1974, talks to reunite Cyprus have taken p ace s or The Arts...... 237 invades, taking a inde a ica y with little success. They were revived in 2008, when the Re third of the island. admini ublic’s resident Demetris ChristoÀ as promised to work with the then travel forum Archbishop’s Palace naming Rauf Turkish Cy riot leader Mehmet Ali Talat, generating over 100 meetings Their attem ts at camaraderie, aimed at creating a climate of eace’, be is the scene of much as its leader. À ghting. Makarios and Cleri resumes presidency. agree on a po Cyprus is divided exchange thereafter. North an STAY IN TOUCH » Archbishop’s Palace lonelyplanet.com/contact

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Lonely Planet in numbers Electricity Embassies & Transport ...... 254 Consulates Countries with diplomatic representation in the Republic Language ...... 261 of Cyprus are listed below. All 70 12 100,000,000 missions are190+ in Lefkosia. Australia (%2275 3001; www.embassy.gov.au/cy.html; languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks cnr Leoforoscountries Stasinou & Annis covered Index ...... 279 Komninis 4) Canada (%2277 5508; info by our writers between posts sold, and still counting @consulcanada.com.cy;by a Lonely Planet Map Legend ...... 287 Lambousa 1) France (%2277 9910; www on our Thorn Tree .ambafrance-cy.org;guide Ploutar- chou 12, ) Germany (%2245 1145; www travel forum .nikosia.diplo.de; Nikitara 10) Greece (%2268 0645; www .greekembassy-cy.org; 240V/50Hz Leoforos Lordou Vyronos 8 10)

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LEMESOS & THE SOUTH COAST ...... 48 LEMESOS (LIMASSOL) . . . 49 AROUND LEMESOS ...... 58 Pissouri Bay & Village . . . . 60 Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock & Beach) ...... 60 Ancient Amathous ...... 61 Episkopi ...... 61 Ancient Kourion ...... 61 Sanctuary of Apollon Ylatis...... 62 Kolossi Castle ...... 62 Akrotiri Peninsula ...... 63

TROÖDOS MASSIF ...... 64 Troödos ...... 65 Platres ...... 69 Around Platres ...... 70 Marathasa Valley ...... 71 Solea Valley ...... 76 Pitsylia ...... 78 Agros ...... 80 Around Pitsylia & Agros ...... 80

PAFOS & THE WEST ...... 82 PAFOS ...... 83 AROUND PAFOS ...... 92 Coral Bay ...... 92 AKAMAS HEIGHTS ...... 93 Dhrousia, & Around ...... 93 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Kathikas ...... 94 Deryneia...... 122 THE NORTHWEST ...... 174 Pano Akourdalia & Kato Dekelia Sovereign Koruçam (Kormakitis) Akourdalia ...... 94 Base Area...... 123 Peninsula ...... 175 Avgas Gorge ...... 94 The Kokkinohoria ...... 123 Morfou (Güzelyurt) ...... 176 AKAMAS PENINSULA . . . . . 95 Pyla ...... 123 Gemikonaği ()...... 176 Polis ...... 97 Protaras ...... 123 Lefke () ...... 176 Baths of Aphrodite ...... 99 Pernera...... 124 Ancient Soloi ...... 177 TYLLIRIA ...... 100 LEFKOSIA Ancient Vouni ...... 178 ...... 100 (NICOSIA) ...... 125 Pahyammos ...... 101 LEFKOSIA (NICOSIA) . . . .126 FAMAGUSTA (MAĞUSA) (Erenköy) ...... 101 AROUND LEFKOSIA . . . . .144 & THE KARPAS ...... 101 Ancient Tamassos ...... 144 (KIRPAŞA) Psokas ...... 102 PENINSULA ...... 179 Monastery of Agios Kampos ...... 102 Irakleidios ...... 145 FAMAGUSTA (MAĞUSA). . 182 WESTERN TROÖDOS . . . . 103 Agios Mamas Church AROUND FAMAGUSTA . . . 187 at Agios Sozomenos . . . . .146 Pano Panagia ...... 103 Ancient Salamis ...... 188 Maheras Monastery ...... 146 Cedar Valley ...... 103 Ancient Enkomi Mesaoria Villages ...... 147 (Alasia)...... 191 LARNAKA & İskele (Trikomo) ...... 191 THE EAST ...... 104 NORTH NICOSIA Boğaz (Bogazi) ...... 193 (LEFKOŞA) ...... 148 LARNAKA ...... 105 KARPAS (KIRPAŞA) AROUND LARNAKA . . . . . 113 PENINSULA ...... 193 KYRENIA (GIRNE) Kantara Castle ...... 194 Kamares Aqueduct ...... 113 & THE NORTHERN Yenierenköy (Yiallousa) . . .195 Hala Sultan Tekke COAST ...... 160 (Tekkesi) ...... 114 Sipahi (Agia Triada) ...... 195 KYRENIA (GIRNE) ...... 161 Larnaka Salt Lake ...... 114 Dipkarpaz Kiti & Around ...... 114 AROUND KYRENIA & (Rizokarpaso) ...... 196 THE RANGES ...... 167 Stavrovouni Monastery . . . 114 Agios Filon & St Hilarion Castle ...... 169 Afendrika ...... 196 Choirokoitia ...... 116 Bellapais (Beylerbeyi) . . . .170 Monastery of Apostolos Lefkara ...... 116 Buffavento Castle ...... 172 Andreas ...... 196 AGIA NAPA ...... 117 Panagia Absinthiotissa Zafer Burnu (Cape AROUND AGIA NAPA . . . . 122 Monastery ...... 172 Apostolos Andreas) ...... 197 Palaces & Sea Caves . . . . .122 Alevkaya Herbarium . . . . . 172 ACCOMMODATION . .198 Cape Greco ...... 122 KYRENIA WEST ...... 174 Paralimni ...... 122 Lapta (Lapithos)...... 174

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Josephine Quintero Coordinating Author; Lemesos & the South Coast, Pafos & the West, Lefkosia, North Nicosia Josephine has visited Cyprus many times and fi nds that the island continually throws up surprises, although there is one constant: the genuine friendliness of the locals, on both sides of the Green Line. Highlights during this trip included sipping coff ee and chatting to locals (including, inevitably, the village priest) in simple village tavernas in the Akamas Heights. She also discovered some soul-stirring art in Lefkosia galleries and Byzantine churches, and rediscovered the irresistible appeal of the traditional meze, especially when washed down with local Cypriot wine from one of the growing number of wineries in the Troödos. Read more about Josephine at: lonelyplanet.com/members/josephinequintero Matthew Charles Troödos Massif, Larnaka & the East, Kyrenia & the Northern Coast, Famagusta & the Karpas Peninsula Matthew fi rst travelled to Cyprus in 1997 to seek out his ancestral roots in Pafos. He ended up falling in love with the island and staying for four years, before returning to his native Australia. Since then he has returned to the island and made Larnaka his home. When he is not writing for Lonely Planet he can be found dreaming up plots, frappé in hand, on one of the many beaches, or playing basketball in the sunshine. Read more about Matthew at: lonelyplanet.com/members/matthewcharles

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 5th edition – March 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 775 6 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 33

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com /thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Two Weeks Top Spots in the Republic of Cyprus

Fly into Larnaka and kick back on the beach, then visit the Pierides Museum and explore the town. Day three, head for Lefkosia, to spend a couple of days getting to know the historical centre with its museums, shops and traditional restaurants. Reward yourself with a soothing massage at the hammam (Turkish baths). Day fi ve, go to the mountainous Troödos to trek, cycle, stroll, explore the tavernas or admire the exquisite Byzantine churches. Roll down to Lemesos, stopping off at Neolithic Choirokoitia. Spend a couple of nights enjoying the varied sights and superb restaurants of the island’s second city. Next day, visit nearby Ancient Kourion. Make sure you take a dip at the mythic Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock & Beach). On day 11, head to Pafos, with its mosaics and mysterious Tombs of the Kings. Base yourself in traditional agrotourism accommodation on the Akamas Peninsula, near some of the loveliest stretches of sand in the South, such as Lara Beach. Fly home from Larnaka or Pafos. , the cial ffi , some- , taking a Lara Beach a) Peninsula and bedding down at Cedar Valley ş . Spend a day exploring. Spend a day , where there’s an o , where there’s rpa ι Larnaka en route. for some of the most sophisticated Kantara Castle , the North’s most impressive archaeo- , the North’s Karpas (K elds. Spend at least two days here, including days elds. Spend at least two Lemesos fi , climbing Kykkos Monastery Kykkos Ancient Salamis , from where you can drive westwards to , from where you can drive westwards Golden Beach (Nangomi Bay) Golden (Nangomi Beach all those calories with some scenic striding out. This region ff , ideal for trekking, swimming and getting to know the region’s , ideal for trekking,know the region’s to swimming and getting Büyükkonuk Ineia airport head for the for a meal at the central taverna; pick up some souvenir stitchery for a meal at the central taverna; and to work o Larnaka atmospheric restaurants in the heart of the walled city, overlooking the Lala atmospheric restaurants in the heart of the walled city, a mosque. Move on and stay overnight in on and stay a mosque. Move ş Akamas Peninsula where that will linger in your memory for years to come. This‘tail end’ of the island has positively the best beaches, deserted clean, with soft, and golden hatch at sand. Turtles From From

Stop at pretty Stop at pretty Head back to the South via Head ers some of the island’s best hiking opportunities, trails. After with four marked a night ers some of the island’s ff amingos. The next day, hightail it to amingos. The next day, logical site. Dip into the sea at the adjacent beach before lunching at one of nearbylogical site. Dip into the sea at the adjacent Famagusta’s Pa Mustafa soul-searching culture break at the stay at one of the nearby agrotourism accommodation options, surrounded by greenery at one of the nearby agrotourism stay and birdsong. villages, Continue this point-to-point peninsula tour by stopping at traditional , Drouseia and like visiting the eco village at one of our recommended hotels. a magnet the fascinating salt lake, for migrant birds, including not forgetting the city, fl or two in bucolic surroundings, continue on the nature trail via the in bucolic surroundings, continue on the nature or two turtle-hatching and wild donkeys, programme, once Cyprus’ equivalent of a lorry roam the endless and even a currency, an early start overnight and make heading inland to thedining choices on the island. Stay Massif Troödos o

From Karpas to Akamas: Spanning the Peninsulas 10 Days South’s best beach and, like the Karpas beaches, also a turtle-hatching zone. You are now the Karpas beaches, also a turtle-hatching best beach and, like zone. You South’s on the bushes juniper typical landscape is home to the area’s Mediterranean rural life. The rocky and low pines and, together with Lara, some wonderfully wild and windswept beaches.

34 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 35 , ideal for , a spectacular Golden Beach a) Peninsula ş , eating excellent seafood, rpa ι . Return to Kyrenia and drive. Return to Kyrenia Ancient Salamis Kyrenia , and spend a day or two exploring its or two , and spend a day rst most obvious port of call will be fi Karpas (K a mosque. Enjoy at least one meal at the rst stop it is too, with its Venetian walls, rst stop it is too, with its Venetian ş fi the sprawling terrace restaurants here. From terrace restaurants here. From the sprawling Ancient Vouni and , one of the three Lusignan castles perched atop the, one of the three Lusignan castles perched atop North Nicosia North cent Lala Mustafa Pa cent Lala Mustafa , appreciating why Lawrence Durrell made this village his home, appreciating why Lawrence fi y into Ercan airport, the Ancient Soloi avento Castle avento fl ff shing trip or scuba-diving to the watery one of the many depths with fi Spend a day or two in picturesque or two Spend a day . . And a suitably evocative Bu , from where there are stunning views. Wind up your tour with a drive , where turtles come to hatch. Fly home from Ercan airport, via the Turkish , where turtles come to hatch. Fly home from Ercan airport, Turkish via the Famagusta looming and ruined Gothic buildings and Cyprus’ best-preserved Lusignan monu- ment, the magni Providing you Providing Follow the highway to the capital, the highway Follow Next, head west to Next, lovers of wild landscapes. This area has the island’s best beaches, such as lovers of wild landscapes. This area has the island’s Bay) (Nangomi mainland. 10 Days ThroughA Journey Northern Cyprus Old City. Take in highlights like the Büyük Han and Selimiye Mosque then, time permit- and Selimiye Mosque the Büyük Han in highlights like Take Old City. base yourself in pretty Next, ting, a rejuvenating massage at the Büyük Hammam. enjoy Bellapais (Beylerbeyi) equally dreamy then visit nearby, years. Admire the ruins of Bellapais Abbey, for so many Castle St Hilarion Kyrenia Range. Continue eastwards down the coast and take the winding road up to down the coast and take Range. Continue eastwards Kyrenia Kantara Castle down to the most beautiful part of the island, the Ginkgo Cafe & Restaurant, one of the best of north dig deeper into the past by heading to Famagusta, ancient site which you’ll hours to explore. After need at least two the exertion of absorbing in the sea. head to the adjacent beach and cool down with a dip all that ancient history, exploring the dark caves of Kyrenia Castle and seeing the oldest shipwreck in Cyprus. Con- of Kyrenia exploring caves the dark sider a boat cruise, a seafaring companies operating from the harbour. east, hiking up to

ff ight fl of the ff and your region and stay and head north for a Pafos , absorbing its workaday Troödos Pafos Pafos lling your hand baggage with fi , with its stylish and compact, with its stylish old , for a day exploring the historic, for a day Larnaka op on the unspoilt sandy stretch of Fly into fl dig deep day, Next Bay. at the extra- past into the island’s nest restaurants. Take a hiccup west for nest restaurants. Take One Week One Relaxing in the Republic back home. a visit to the Cyprus Wine Museum before a visit to the Cyprus Wine Museum continuing on to in tranquil agrotourism accommodation all that natureovernight. Then, leave behind and head for the fascinating capital, Lefkosia with its traditional cafes, intriguingold city museums and hubble-bubble whi East. Continue your journey by stop- Middle ping in bustle and crafts bought direct from the workshops district. in the atmospheric former Turkish Continue your circular tour with a visit to Lemesos home to some of the island’s town that’s fi ordinary Pafos archaeological site and ordinary Pafos After of the Kings. dark, dine nearby Tombs alfresco and head for the latest hot spot three, set for a drink and a dance. Day o across country of wine northeast for a day tasting in the rst fi inian s can Lapta ff west to . Enjoy before , spending Bellapais , and travel Horse ShoeHorse az (Bogazi) a) Peninsula ğ ş ; this is the Mediterra- Bo North Nicosia North rpa ι St Hilarion Castle St Hilarion and the captivating surrounds , home of a lovely August Kyrenia , and windswept nean as it used to be – a picturesque ending abruptly at a stone harbour, stop Fly into Ercan and make your Fly into Ercan and make for some superb fresh seafood at the Karpas (K ight home. ight fl Famagusta shing village of shing the beaches and stay overnight at the unspoilt overnight at the beaches and stay fi returning to Ercan, via Ancient Salamis, for your (Beylerbeyi) monastery with endless views of the surround- backtrack overnight, then ing mountains. Stay via to Kyrenia, looming Byzantine castle. Splash out and stay (or evenat a waterfront three) hotel for two upnights. Before moving on, consider getting ofclose and personal with the natural beauty the region by hiking part of the spectacular the best overview For Trail. Mountain Kyrenia of your surroundings, head for the northwest coast, stopping at pretty the northwest coast, stopping at pretty (Lapithos) ofthe a day here visiting the sites, before continuinga day to Beach an archaeological detourmake south other- and Ancient Soloi; visit Ancient Vouni wise, hit the road to beachside restaurant here. History bu One Week One Essential Northern Cyprus

36 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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