introShort This guidebook has been designed to provide visitors with an extensive insight into the delightful world of rural . This is a world apart from the beaches and tourist hotspots. Here, timeless villages, tiny remote painted churches, stunning scenery, forested mountain trails and a way of life that has hardly changed over the past centuries, are just waiting to be discovered. The first part of this book provides general information on rural Cyprus, its history, traditions, cultures, flora and fauna, places of interest and more. The second half of the book, details 15 recommended driving excursions. All of the routes can be accomplished easily within a day’s drive in a regular car, yet all have something different to offer. The routes highlight points-of-interest along the way and all start and finish on one of the main roads. These routes are also ideal for organised group tours with small buses. The routes include places to stop for walking, cycling, bird watching, fresh-water fishing or to simply explore the countryside and charming villages. All that’s needed is a good road map, a sunhat, plenty of water, comfortable walking shoes and a spirit of adventure.

NOTE: The spellings of all place-names conform to those indicated on the road signs. However, in some cases, these may vary from those shown on your road map. Contents

Useful Information 3 Welcome to Rural Cyprus 4 Natural Environment 8 Cultural Heritage 12 Rural Crafts and Skills 18 Food and Wine 22 Rural Accommodation 28 Countryside Activities 32 Religious and Local Customs and Celebrations 38 The Rural Year in Cyprus 44 Route 1 – The Southeast Area 52 (Kokkinochoria – Red Soil Villages) Route 2 – The Central Plain 60 Route 3 – Larnaka West Coast 64 Route 4 – Lefkara Area 70 Route 5 – Machairas and the Southwest 76 Route 6 – Lemesos () Forest 82 Route 7 – Lemesos (Limassol) West Coast 86 Route 8 – The Wine Villages 92 Route 9 – and the Solea Valley 98 Route 10 – Troodos and the Marathasa Valley 104 Route 11 – The and Southwest 110 Route 12 – The Pafos Valleys 116 Route 13 – Pafos and the 120 Route 14 – Polis, and Kykkos 126 Route 15 – Pafos Forest 132 infoUseful Remember the country code ñ Avoid the temptation to pick wildflowers and take a photograph instead. This way you protect the plant and still have an enduring reminder of its beauty. ñ Avoid disturbing natural habitats and nesting birds. ñ Take your litter with you. ñ Do not light fires, except at designated picnic sites, Always be particularly careful about extinguishing cigarettes.

Learn Greek: English is widely spoken in Cyprus. However, it is always an advantage to know a few key words of Greek – you may find them very useful and you will certainly impress the local people. Hello & goodbye: YIASSOU (plural is YIASSAS) Please: PARAKALO Thank you: EFKHARISTO Yes: NAI No: OCHI Road: DROMOS Left: ARISTERA Right: DHEXIA Straight on: ISHIA Where is? POU INE Up (over or above): PANO Down (below or lower): KATO Slowly: SIGA-SIGA Today: SIMERA Tomorrow: AVRIO Water: NERO Car: AFTOKINITO Petrol: BEZINA (local dialect) Mechanic: MICHANIKOS Telephone: TILEFONO Doctor: YIATROS Police: ASTYNOMIA Pharmacy: FARMAKIO Cyprus Coffee: KAFE - gliko (sweet), metrio (medium), sketo (no sugar).

Dress Code: Always dress respectfully when visiting churches and . welcome to Rural Cyprus

Cyprus enjoys an enviable worldwide reputation as a sun and sea holiday destination, with year-round sunshine, blue skies and warm waters. However, this fascinating island has much more to offer. Away from the tourist areas, the Cyprus countryside has a diverse wealth of its own with traditional villages, vineyards and wineries, tiny fresco-painted churches, remote monasteries and cool shady forests. This is a nature-lovers paradise, where you can walk for hours without seeing another living soul. In springtime, fields of flowers stretch as far as the eye can see, and a ramble along a mountain path will suddenly reveal a tiny chapel or a Venetian-built bridge that once formed part of the route of an ancient camel train. Around every corner is another surprise; a magnificent view; a rare sighting of the Cyprus moufflon as it scampers up an almost vertical slope; or a chance encounter with someone who will surprise you with his or her knowledge of your language and an invitation to join the family for a coffee or refreshment.

4 The island of Cyprus may be small but it has literally hundreds of villages, many of which are no more that a handful of houses clustered around a , and a coffee-shop that also serves as the village store, post office and general meeting place. In the more remote parts of the island, these villages have remained virtually unchanged and although motorised transport has made them more accessible, their older inhabitants still cling to the traditional lifestyle which basically revolves around the seasons of planting and harvesting.

For some of these people, the donkey is still the preferred mode of transport and these faithful animals can still be seen making their way home from the fields, laden with firewood or green forage for the family goats. Even in the larger villages, traditional values are still very much in evidence. Here, maybe the village shepherd carries a mobile phone and the farmer drives to his fields in a double-cabin pick-up truck but this is merely a sign of the times – a veneer that, when scratched, will expose the true character of the village people - family-orientated, warm-hearted, friendly and unbelievably hospitable.

5 The main activity in rural Cyprus is arable Autumn is also the time to harvest the and livestock farming. What is grown olives. As in most other Mediterranean where depends on the area, the terrain and countries, the olive plays a significant role the climate. But the island’s range of in the lives of the people. Every part of the produce is amazing. Just about anything will tree is important: the deadwood is used to grow here, from tropical fruits such as stoke the winter stoves; the fruit is either mangoes, kiwis and bananas to produce preserved in brine, or crushed for its more associated with that from northern precious oil. Even the leaves are dried, climates. On the island’s south facing blessed and burnt as aromatic incense slopes, especially in the western part of the during church services. Olive trees grow all over the island, except high up in the mountains, where they are unable to survive the harsher winters. Almost all villagers in the remote areas own at least a small plot of land on which they grow their own vegetables, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and aubergines, as well as pulse vegetables that can be dried and stored for the winter months. They raise chickens for eggs and meat, and many also keep a few goats, which provide them with enough milk to make their own yoghourt and cheeses, including Cyprus’ famous Halloumi cheese. Sea fishing is also an important rural activity and fishing shelters are dotted around the coast. Visit them early in the morning, to watch the fishermen bring in the catch of the day. island, are the vineyards. Cyprus is famous Mining the island’s rich mineral deposits for its fine wines and a visit to one of the of copper, asbestos, chromium, pyrites and many wineries is a great way to spend umber used to be a lucrative part of the a day. The grapes are harvested during rural economy but its importance has autumn, when entire families, from declined as the mines gradually become grandparents to the youngest toddlers, worked out. work together in their vineyards to bring in the crop.

6 Away from the cultivated land, there is an The Cyprus hinterland is a great place for abundant ecosystem of flora and fauna with botanists, artists, bird watchers, hikers, many endemic species. In spring, ramblers, anglers, cyclists, photographers the island is carpeted with wild flowers and geologists. and orchids. Cyprus is on one of the The greatest wealth of any country is its north-south migratory paths and during people and whatever your interest or spring and autumn millions of birds either wherever you travel in Cyprus you can over-fly the island or break their long always be sure of receiving the warmest journey here. During winter, the Larnaka of welcomes. and salt lakes are an extraordinary

sight with thousands of pink flamingos wading in the shallow waters. The moufflon, an indigenous wild sheep, roams the forested slopes of the Troodos range, and both Green and Loggerhead turtles breed on the island’s more secluded beaches. The cultural landscape of the rural areas is rich and varied, with archaeological sites, monasteries, museums and churches, while traditional crafts such as basket- making, pottery, weaving, wood carving, and -making are still maintained in many villages.

7 natural Environment

Geology The island of Cyprus was formed around seventy million years ago by the collision of the Euro-asian and African tectonic plates. By the Lower Miocene era, some twenty-five million years ago, the Troodos mountain range was an island and the Mesaoria (central plain) and Pantadactylos range to the north were submerged under the sea (evidence of this can be found in several areas, where fossilised seashells can be clearly seen embedded in the rocks). The Pentadactylos Mountains began to emerge eleven million years ago at the end of the Miocene era, but the Mesaoria appeared much later, during the Pleistocene Age, a million years ago.

Today, the Troodos massif, a bulky range with the 1951m Mount Olympus (Chionistra) at its peak, dominates the south of the island. It consists of igneous rock and pillow lavas originally formed from molten rock beneath the 8,000-metre deep ocean that once separated the continents of Eurasia and Afro-Arabia. Its serpentine rocks contain rich deposits

8 of copper, asbestos, chromites and iron pyrites. Troodos provides a unique opportunity for anyone interested in geology, because it is one of the rare places in the world where you can actually stand on the earth’s mantle. The Pentadactylos range, which runs parallel to the northern coastline, is the east Mediterranean’s southernmost range of the great Alpine-Himalaya chain. It consists of thrust masses of limestone of the Permian, Carboniferous and Cretaceous periods, with marl, sandstone and conglomerates

from the Miocene era on the lower slopes. The Mesaoria, between the two mountain ranges, stretches from Morfou in the west to Ammochostos (Famagusta) in the east, with the capital, Lefkosia (), lying more or less in the middle. This central plain is mainly marl and shell-limestone, while in the eastern foothills of the Troodos range, chalk, limestone and gypsum are common. Natural features The rock formations have played a significant role in the development of the landscape. The erosion resistant dunites, serpentines, gabbros and diabases of the Troodos massif are the main reason for its height and its harsh, rugged scenery, while less erosion-resistant chalks at lower altitudes have formed the rounded white landscape of the vineyards. 9 The limestone cliffs of the Akamas have golden oak (Quercus alnifolia) grow on the created karsts, with subterranean streams, lower slopes and, near the coasts, juniper reservoirs and caves containing stalagmites predominates. The golden oak has been and stalactites. There are also deep gorges declared the national tree of Cyprus. at the west of the island. Maquis vegetation, which thrives on poor The rivers flowing radially from the quality siliceous soil, includes rockroses, Troodos have opened steep-sided river arbutus, myrtle and rosemary. The scrub valleys and there are significant waterfalls vegetation of the garrigue is chiefly on at Kalidonia, Mesapotamos and Fini. limestone soil and includes the spiny The Salt Lakes at Akrotiri and Larnaka lose burnet, capers and aromatics such as their water in summer due to evaporation thyme, rosemary, oregano and lavender. and, until quite recently, the salt harvested Cyprus is characterised by an extremely from the dried-out lake at Larnaka was high number of indigenous plant species, sold on the local market. approximately 2000, of which almost Coupled with the rock types are the 140 are endemic, such as the Cyclamen various kinds of soil, which give distinct cyprium, which has been declared the colour to the landscape. Deep and fertile national flower of Cyprus. For nature terra rosa has developed on the hard lovers, early spring is the most rewarding limestone of the Kokkinochoria period of the year. There is a riotous (Red Villages) in the southeast, and rich blossoming of poppies, anemones, brown soils have developed on the pillow cyclamen, iris, gladioli, tulips and crown lavas. The white limey soils, derived from daisies. Approximately fifty species, the decomposition of limestone rocks, subspecies and varieties of orchid are are widespread and the most suitable for found, including several endemics. the cultivation of vines in the districts of Pafos and Lemesos (Limassol), while very There are more than 70 fertile alluvial soils are present in the river valleys. organised Nature Trails in Flora and fauna rural Cyprus. Each is carefully The natural vegetation of Cyprus is broadly designed to ensure hikers split into four categories: forests, maquis, Mediterranean garrigue and herbaceous appreciate the best viewpoints plants. The main forest trees at high and things of interest in the altitude are pines, including the flat-topped Troodos pine (Pinus nigra s.p. Palasianna). area. Ask for the special CTO Cedar, plane, alder, maple and the endemic booklet.

10 Birds on the spring and autumn north- hatchlings by foxes and other predators has south migration use Cyprus as a stopping severely jeopardised the survival of these point and the two Salt Lakes (Larnaka and primeval marine creatures. Akrotiri) offer a winter home to large In 1978, the Cyprus Fisheries Department flocks of greater flamingos (Phoenicopterus established a turtle hatchery at Lara Beach, ruber). Nightingales, golden orioles, one of the main nesting sites on the west hoopoes, rollers and bee-eaters are among coast. Turtle eggs are also transported the visitors and residents include several from other beaches to hatch in safe endemic species, such as the Cyprus conditions at Lara. warbler and the Cyprus Wheatear. Although not a wild animal in danger The population of the Griffon Vulture of extinction, the Cyprus donkey has (Gyps fulvus) has declined rapidly over always been an important feature of rural recent years and the birds no longer visit life. It was a form of transport, many of their traditional nesting sites. The Game Service has set up a small reserve at on the Xeros River and action is being taken to prevent the loss of the species.

The endemic moufflon (Ovis orientalis ophion), a type of wild sheep, considered by many to be Cyprus’ national animal. At one time, these beautiful shy animals were hunted almost to extinction. beast of burden and the means for drawing However, a captive-breeding programme water from the wells. has saved the species and today around The Nubian Donkey (Equus asinus) 10,000 live in and around the Pafos Forest. is believed to be the domestic donkey’s They are best seen in a reserve ancestor and it is known that donkeys at the Stavros tis Psokas Forest Station, were domesticated before horses. in the Troodos range. What is not known is when the first Cyprus is one of the few remaining nesting donkeys arrived in Cyprus but the remains grounds for the endangered Green Turtle of an ass have been found in a tomb from (Chelonia mydias) and the Loggerhead the seventh century BC. Villagers from the Turtle (Caretta caretta). Turtles lay their remoter areas can still be seen riding and eggs in the sand on isolated beaches. working with donkeys, and there is a Gradual human encroachment into their Donkey Sanctuary at the village of , territory and depredation of the nests and northwest of Lemesos (Limassol).

11 Cultural Heritage

As you wander around the island you will come across many prehistoric sites, tombs and sanctuaries depicting the long cultural heritage of the island. The ancient history of Cyprus tends to focus on the great city kingdoms, conquerors and conflict. Yet farmers and herders, artisans and miners played an equal role in the chronicle and they laid down the foundations of the country’s distinctive culture. Manmade artefacts from as far back as 10,000 BC show that Stone Age Man was present on the island when the pygmy hippopotamus and dwarf elephant were on earth. By 6,800 BC, Neolithic Man was a skilled hunter, living in stone and clay huts. He shaped river pebbles to make axe heads and chisels. He also created patterned pottery bowls, clay sculpture and jewellery of steatite, shell and cornelian.

Arts and crafts started to evolve when the discovery of ochre and umber pigments enabled potters to decorate their ceramics

12 with colour. They also started to create figures of fertility goddesses and cross-shaped human forms. Archaeological finds from this era include animal-shaped vases and a model of a ploughing scene – signifying the importance of livestock and arable farming. The discovery of copper around 3,000BC, changed life dramatically, as the metal became the source of immense wealth and triggered the development of trade with neighbouring countries. In addition, the location of many of the copper mines prompted previously

agrarian communities from settlements in the foothills and plains to relocate to upland areas. Some copper ore was smelted locally in wood or charcoal-burning furnaces and the metal was exported in ingots in the shape of a sheepskin. By the Late Bronze Age, smiths were using imported tin mixed with copper to cast large bronze objects.

Around 1200BC, the arrival of Greek-speaking settlers as part of the Sea Peoples, caused great disruption and led to the emergence of the first of the city kingdoms of the Iron Age and the Hellenisation of the island. Copper smelting started the depletion of the island’s thick forest cover and after Cyprus fell to the Persians, the forests were further diminished for shipbuilding.

13 During the Hellenistic period (4th century lace and metalwork just as their ancestors BC), copper mining was generating such did in ancient times. wealth that Cyprus was able to supply Evidence of the island’s intriguing heritage Alexander the Great, to whose empire the can be seen in its many interesting island then belonged, with a whole fleet archaeological museums. of battleships. The Cyprus Museum in Lefkosia The value of the copper mining and export (Nicosia) houses the richest collection trade was the catalyst for the Romans of archaeological finds in Cyprus. Prior to taking possession of Cyprus in 58BC and its being built in the first decade of the their baskets, ropes, wooden props last century, antiquities were plundered and other mining paraphernalia have been by entrepreneurs such as Luigi Palma found in shafts of copper mines still in use de Cesnola, an American consul whose in the last century. collection was amassed through his privately organised excavations all over the island during the Ottoman period. Sir John Myres and Max Ohnefalsch-Richter were the first experts to carry out systematic archaeological work on the island and after the Cyprus Museum was established, so many finds were brought to light that it ran out of space in which to exhibit them. The museum’s exhibits traverse the history of Cyprus from the Neolithic Era (7,000 BC) to the 7th century AD. Amongst the highlights are an extraordinary display of terracotta figures found in 1929 at Agia Irini Sanctuary at Morfou, and statue of the goddess discovered at Soli. Another focal point is the collection of limestone lions Tenta Prehistoric Site and sphinxes found at in 1997. Today, agriculture, including the wine 1 Mouseiou Street, Lefkosia Open Mon-Sat industry, is still a fundamental part 09:00 – 17:00, Sunday 10:00 – 13:00. of the country’s economy and Cypriot The museum is on the Aphrodite craftspeople continue their cultural Cultural Route. traditions by creating pottery and weaving,

14 The Aphrodite Cultural tell the tale of the enigmatic Route (Kiprida Aphrodite) goddess of love and beauty. invites you to wander through The primary sites connected layers of history and with the goddess are Paleia culture in the footsteps Pafos (), Amathous of the Goddess. and Kition and all are well The Aphrodite cult probably worth a visit. At all sites, evolved from even older information boards detail female fertility deities and various aspects of Aphrodite. after eons, the Anassa, (Holy Also, the museums on the Queen) of Cyprus, became Aphrodite route, highlight completely identified with the the finds connect to the Aphrodite of the Greek goddess with the logo of the Gods of Olympus in the Cultural Route. 4th century BC. Although Brochures of the Aphrodite best known as the Goddess of Route are also available from Love and Beauty, Aphrodite all CTO Information Offices. was also the goddess of copper Larnaka District Archaeological Museum houses finds from Larnaka and and was worshipped at the surrounding area, which was inhabited sanctuaries connected to long before the city-kingdom of Kition was built in the 13th century BC by the smelting workshops. Temples, Mycenaean Greeks. Among the items from shrines and natural sites from the prehistoric settlements at and Kalavassos are tools made from bone, around the island such as the picrolite jewellery and a tomb in which Baths of Aphrodite near Polis a heavy stone has been laid on the head and chest of the dead man. Bronze Age

15 faience, ivory and alabaster objects bear Pafos District Archaeological Museum witness to the commerce of the time. contains finds from the Pafos district that There is a collection of Mycenaean date from between the Neolithic and ceramics, votive terracotta figurines, Venetian periods of the island’s history. glass objects from Roman times and A remarkable find from Lempa is the an interesting exhibition of Cypro-Minoan skeleton of a twenty-year old woman, inscriptions. The museum also contains displayed exactly as it was found. stone anchors found in the area. Plateia The oldest exhibits are from approximately Kalograion. 8000BC and include stone axes, fragments Open Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30 + Thurs of pots and abstract statuettes of steatite 15:00-17:00 (except July & August). and clay. There are also some intriguing The Museum is on the Aphrodite examples of medical devices from the Cultural Route. Roman period. Other remarkable exhibits include classical funerary steles from Lemesos (Limassol) District ancient Marion (modern day Polis) and the Archaeological Museum contains finds beautiful statue of the ‘armed’ Aphrodite. from Kourion and Amathous, the two Griva Digeni St. important city-kingdoms near Lemesos (Limassol), as well as from around thirty Open Mon – Fri 09:00 – 17:00, other archaeological sites in the district. Sat 10:00 – 13:00. Some of the exhibits date back to the era The museum is on the Aphrodite before Cyprus had even been settled, Cultural Route. such as the skull and jawbone of a pygmy hippopotamus and the tusk of a dwarf elephant found on the Akrotiri peninsula. Among the finds from Kourion is a large storage jar that stands one and a half metres tall. The museum also houses an extensive collection of pottery, stone tools, gold, silver and bronze jewellery and Byzantine artefacts. Corner of Kaningos and Vyronos Streets. Open Mon – Fri 09:00 – 17:00, Sat 10:00 – 13:00. The museum is on the Aphrodite Cultural Route.

16 17 Rural Crafts and Skills Lekfaritika is the fine embroidery and drawn- thread work that has made Lefkara, the village after which it is named, world famous. Simple embroidery, known as asproploumia (white work), was done in Cyprus from very early times. However, in the Frankish and Venetian periods (1191 – 1571) when Lefkara was a summer resort for the nobles, local women added to their repertoire the more complicated designs created by Venetian women. Lefkaritika patterns are mainly geometric with crosses and diamonds and the work is done on beige ‘Irish’ linen with white or dark brown cotton thread. In the 19th century, village men travelled to Europe, and later America and , to sell the embroideries. Leonardo da Vinci is said to have come to Lefkara to buy an altar-cloth for Milan cathedral. Lefkaritika is also made at all the villages in the area as well as at Kornos, , Dali and .

Pottery in Cyprus goes back to Neolithic times and you can see fine examples from most periods of the island’s history in all the island’s

18 archaeological museums. Traditional potters still work in the villages of and Kornos, using red clay from local hillsides to make cooking pots, storage jars, amphorae and plant pots. The pots are thrown on a small wheel turned by hand or foot. Before firing, the vessel is bound with string or cloth strips to prevent cracking and left to stand overnight. Then the potter scrapes off any excess clay and rubs the pot with a stick then with a wet cloth to make it shine. After being left to dry away from the wind and sun, the pot is finally fired in a wood- burning kiln. Sadly, the giant onion-shaped

earthenware storage jars called pitharia are no longer made but these enormous vessels are often used as decorative plant pots. Ceramic traditions continue with small potteries all over the island, making good quality modern and ethnic ware.

Decorated gourds: The gourd is a vegetable of the marrow family that hangs from a climbing vine seen adorning the verandas of rural houses. Kolokia (gourds) come in a range of shapes and sizes and have long been decorated and used for practical purposes by Cypriots. The bottle-shaped gourd is the most useful: as a wine carafe, a candlestick, a container for salt or olives and, with its side cut off, as a water ladle. Decorating gourds, either by incising geometric patterns or motifs of animals or flowers into them with a knifepoint

19 or burning the design with a poker, baskets used for draining and pressing is a craft still practiced in the villages of halloumi and anari cheeses are still made and Tries Elies. at Akrotiri village. Baskets are still made at too and there is a basketry Basket making dates from Neolithic museum at Ineia, near Pafos. times and today’s methods are virtually unchanged. Baskets were made to serve Copperware is an obvious traditional craft specific practical purposes. In the in a country where the metal featured Kokkinochoria (Red Soil Villages), prominently throughout history. large strong wicker baskets were made for The discovery of copper made Cyprus rich gathering and transporting potatoes. and important in the Bronze Age and At Lakatameia, riverbed rushes were used mining was carried out throughout the centuries. Coppersmiths still make copper pots and kettles, the long-handled pots known as brikki (in which Cyprus coffee is made) and exquisite bracelets. Old copper cauldrons, coffee pots and lamps often adorn hotels and tavernas. Silverware is made chiefly at Lefkara, where the men have a long history of producing cobweb-like filigree work. Fine silver wire is bent into complex designs for teaspoons, bracelets and other jewellery, as well as intricately worked containers that hold jars of the traditional sweetmeat glyko, and are hung around with to dress bottles to prevent leakage when half a dozen small pastry forks. Also made transporting olive oil, wine or zivania. is solid silverware, including trays and Donkey panniers, known as sirizes, were pinecone or pomegranate-shaped vessels also made from rushes. Workers carried for the oil and holy water used at baptisms their lunch in small-lidded korokolios and and blessings. bread was kept in a macramé type basket, called a tapatsa that hung from the ceiling. Weaving: It is known that weaving was Tsestos, the large, often colourfully highly developed during Byzantine times decorated, flat cane platters used for and, during the Venetian and Lusignan carrying bread and drying trahana, (a type periods, valuable silk and woollen fabrics of Cyprus porridge) now often decorate renowned for their high quality were house walls. Talari, the small cylindrical exported in great quantities to Europe.

20 weaving, which derives its name from to crosses. Ecclesiastical woodcarving was, Fyti village, consists of colourful geometric and still is, a specialised craft and elaborate textured designs or ploumia on un-dyed (altar screens) are to be found cotton cloth. The ploumia, in strong reds, in countless churches around the island. yellows, blues, greens and orange, Religious themes similar to those of the are made by placing thick coloured thread iconostasis often found their way onto or fytilia among the warp threads. Fyti household objects too and the local church weaving is usually made into rectangular was usually depicted on the central panel napkins, tablecloths and bed covers. of the sendukia. At Mouttoullas, on the The origins of this weaving are lost in the northern slopes of the , past but geometric patterns similar to artisans used pinewood to make vournes those in Fyti work can be seen on pottery (wooden troughs), which, according to from the Geometric period. Another style size, were used by village women for of weaving is the weave of kneading bread or doing the laundry. brightly coloured stripes. This strong fabric, Also made from pine were sanidhia (long which comes in a glorious array of bright breadboards), on which the women carried colours, makes good tablemats, table their loaves to the oven for baking. runners, throws for sofas, rugs, bedcovers and curtains. Cyprus rag rugs are still made in many colour combinations, using cotton thread for the warp and strips of fabric for the weft. In the mountain villages, rugs were woven of a mixture of goat hair and wool in muted stripes. Woodcarving: In the days when timber from the abundant forests of Cyprus was plentiful, the decorative art of woodcarving was widespread around the island. Many rural houses had doors and lintels with at least some carving – and sometimes painting as well. Inside there were carved chairs, wardrobes, corner cupboards, shelves and sendukia (dowry chests), in which girls gradually amassed the household linen needed for their marriage. The carved designs ranged from flowers, cypress trees, birds, animals and grapes,

21 Food and Wine Hospitality is a byword in Cyprus and Kopiaste in Greek means, “Come and enjoy our hospitality”. Where better to try some local specialities than in rural Cyprus? Much of the food eaten daily - olives, almonds, figs, beans, chickpeas, dates, bitter herbs and honey – was known in Biblical times. It is said that carobs are the ‘husks’ from the parable of the prodigal son and the ‘locusts’ eaten by John the Baptist in the wilderness. The traditional Cypriot diet is a healthy one based on vegetables, salad, pulses, bread, fruit, olive oil and small quantities of meat. Everything is freshly cooked and the salad is often picked straight from the garden. Even Cypriot fast food is healthy. Try an envelope of pitta bread filled with char-grilled souvlakia meat and salad; add a dash of salt and lemon juice and enjoy it with a cool local beer.

22 Festive food On New Year’s Day, a special cake called Vassiliopitta (St Basil’s cake) is baked with a coin hidden in it. The person finding the coin is promised good luck throughout the year. Easter is a time of rejoicing. Many Cypriots will have given up meat, fish and dairy products during Lent and the fast is broken after midnight on Easter Day, with a rich lamb soup called Mageiritsa (originally from ), or the more popular Avgolemono (egg and lemon soup). Easter cakes or flaounes, are made from

a special cheese, eggs, spices, herbs and sultanas wrapped in dough. The main Easter meal is souvla, large chunks of spit-roasted lamb, accompanied by roast potatoes, lots of salad and good wine.

Before Christmas there is another forty-day fast. Turkeys and pigs are fattened up during the summer and slaughtered for the Christmas feast. Some of the pork meat is salted, cured or smoked to last through the winter. Everyone eats the icing-sugar covered shortbread called kourambiedes and spiced honey buns called melomakarona. Traditional Cyprus foods Halloumi, can be eaten fried, grilled, grated onto pasta or as is with a slice of watermelon. It is made by heating a mixture of sheep and

23 goat milk in a hartzi (cauldron) before over pasta. The best way to eat it, though, adding rennet and turning off the heat. The is unsalted, with just a drizzle of honey curds are scooped out, squeezed to or carob syrup. Natural yoghurt, strained extract the whey, wrapped in cheesecloth or otherwise, is yet another dairy product and pressed under a heavy weight. The that is an integral part of the Cypriot diet cheese is cut into blocks and cooked in the and one that quickly becomes a firm whey again. When it rises to the surface, it favourite with all the island’s visitors. is taken out, dipped in salt and dried mint, The highly nutritious sugary unripe pods folded in half and left to cool before being of the carob tree (ceratonia siliqua) used stored in the whey. to be known as the ‘Black Gold of Cyprus’. charoupomelo, carob syrob, is made Cyprus bread is delicious by boiling the ripe pods to a mash in a anywhere you go, but some large cauldron of water, straining the mixture and reducing it to the consistency villages make their own of honey. Pasteli is made by boiling carob specialities and these are syrup to reduce it further to a thick pulp, then kneading it into toffee. exceptionally good. Look out for the sesame-covered loaves that have been baked in the traditional beehive-shaped ovens. The texture is somewhat denser than European style breads but the flavour is outstanding. Glyka Before the final step, the whey is returned Among the sweetmeats, are sugar-preserved fruit and nuts traditionally to the hartzi to make Anari, a cheese similar to ricotta. Fresh milk is added and offered to welcome guests to the home. the mixture is reheated and stirred with It is made from green walnuts (Karidaki), apricots, quinces, tiny white aubergines, a small brush called a throumbi until the crumbly white cheese floats to the surface. cherries, bitter oranges (citromilo), Some anari is salted and dried to be grated curls of grapefruit or bergamot peel

24 or strips of watermelon rind, steeped olive oil. At the year’s end, the black olives in a thick sugar syrup. are ready to be taken to the olive press, Palouze is made in the mountain villages at there to be kneaded and pressed into thick grape harvest time. It is a mixture of grape green oil. A slice of freshly toasted bread juice, flour and sugar that is boiled until it is held under the spigot to catch the first sets like blancmange. drizzle of the season’s yield. Eliotes, a tasty To make soudjouko, almonds are olive pastry, is a firm favourite with all threaded like beads on string and dipped Cypriots. into boiling palouze and dried, repeatedly, Cyprus coffee is made in long-handled until thickly coated, then hung in the sun brikkia (pots) on a copper or brass to dry and cut into lengths. contraption called an outziaki, consisting of a cylinder of simmering water above Cyprus Coffee: Strong, a tray of very hot sand. Coffee beans are full of flavour and served ground to a powder and a heaped in tiny cups together with a teaspoon plus a demitasse of water are put into the brikki for each serving. Sugar is glass of cold water. Ask for: added to taste and you order metrios glyko (sweet); metrio (medium), glykos (sweet) or sketos (unsweetened). The brikki is heated in the (medium); or sketo (without sand and the coffee is allowed to boil. sugar). Be careful not to drink When it starts to rise, the coffee is poured into the cup. Cyprus coffee is always to the bottom of the cup or served with a glass of cold water and you’ll end up with a mouthful you never drink to the bottom of the cup, as there is a little sediment. of coffee grains. Cyprus has a very long history of wine Olives and Olive oil are essential to production and the island has fifteen Cypriot cooking and many families cultivate indigenous varieties of grape. The wines a few trees to ensure they have an of Cyprus are praised in the Song of adequate supply to last the year. Solomon and in 800 BC Hesiodes Olive picking starts in late autumn with the described the making of Cyprus wine. gathering of the green olives. Greek poet Euripides wrote of vast These are preserved in brine to be served pilgrimages to the island to taste the wine, as traditional Cypriot tsakistes. Unique to or Cyprus Nama, as it was then known, Cypriot cuisine, the olives are cracked and and it was considered delectable by the sprinkled with crushed coriander seeds and Egyptian Pharaohs. chopped garlic, and bathed in lemon and

25 Legend tells us that the first mortal to The modern wine industry was born learn the secret of making wine was King in 1844 when the House of Hagipavlou Icarios, who learned the art from Dionysus, was founded to export wine in barrels the god of wine himself. The scene can be to neighbouring countries. In 1893, the seen today in a mosaic at the House of company built a winery at Zanatzia, with Dionysus at Kato Pafos. The words proper presses and stone fermentation ‘Be happy and drink well’ were found on an tanks. inscription at the site and archaeological A British family by the name of Chaplin evidence of viticulture and winemaking can built a winery at , later to be be seen in museums around the island. bought out by Keo, a company started in 1927. Loel, was formed in 1943 and developed business links with Eastern Bloc countries while Sodap was created in 1947 as a vine-growers’ cooperative. These companies, known as the ‘Big Four’, produced all the wine sold commercially for many years. In the early 1980s, the government encouraged small wineries to open and there are now over thirty, many of them in the vineyards themselves. These smaller wineries are represented by the Vacchus Regional Wineries’ Association. At the same time, the Big Four opened – or re-opened – regional wineries Cyprus is one of the oldest and created new marques to complement the existing classics. Many of the wineries wine producing countries welcome visitors for guided tours and in the world and CTO has tastings, and there is also The Cyprus Wine Museum at the village of . designed 6 wine routes to help After thousands of years of winemaking, visitors discover the island’s the future of the industry in Cyprus bodes fascinating wine producing well and the consumer has a vast choice of wines from the island of Aphrodite. regions. Ask for the special is the oldest name for a CTO booklet. wine in the world. The name derives from

26 the Grande Commanderie (feudal estate) The Vahkis Project of the Knights Hospitaller of St John of , an ecclesiastical military order promotes authentic traditional headquartered at . Commandaria is Cypriot cuisine, cooked and a dark sweet dessert wine made from grapes grown in an Appellation d’Origine served at local tavernas housed Contrôlée area on the southern foothills of in traditional buildings. the Troodos Mountains to the northeast of Lemesos (Limassol). The grapes, The scheme is named after a a combination of the indigenous red Mavro famous Cypriot chef and white Xinisteri, are partially dried in the sun to enhance their sugar content before who lived in the city-kingdom pressing and fermenting. of Kition around 300AD. Zivania is a traditional spirit that has been Restaurants and tavernas have drunk in Cyprus for centuries. It is distilled from grapes with high acidity, which are to meet all the requirements crushed and the whole mass, called zivana, of the scheme’s criteria before is put into pitharia (large round clay pots) and fermented. Distillation begins with the they are awarded the Vahkis zivana and some wine or water being put certificate. into a kazani (cauldron), made from tin-lined copper and the dome-shaped More information on the food kapaki (lid), which has a hole in one side, and drink of Cyprus is hermetically sealed. Finally, the loullas, (copper tube), is fitted into the hole and available from the Flavours of its other end is passed through a tub, dani, Cyprus booklet and from of cold water. The mixture is boiled so that evaporation occurs and the vapour The Wine Routes booklet, condenses as it cools on its way through both of which are available the dani, thus completing the process. from all CTO Information There are literally hundreds of traditional taverns and restaurants all over Cyprus all Offices. of which serve delicious local specialities and wines. The village coffee shops are great places to meet the local people and enjoy a Cyprus coffee or cool drink.

27 AccommodationRural A rural holiday gives the opportunity to participate in traditional activities, to eat in the village tavernas and enjoy the genuine hospitality of a rural community. Basic foodstuffs and other supplies, including fresh bread, vegetables and fruit can be bought locally in the villages. Ask the friendly villagers to let you in to the area’s best-kept secrets and then go and explore them for first-hand experience. Traditional houses Anyone who prefers the charm of a quiet, rural environment to the hustle and bustle of a tourist resort can opt to stay at a traditional house in a village, accommodation known in Cyprus as agrotourism.

These properties are renovated traditional village houses. All have modern kitchens and bathrooms and are furnished with rustic furniture and soft furnishings in traditional weave. Most of the houses have a garden, where you can enjoy such delights as lemons fresh from the tree, and some even have a swimming pool too. You can enjoy the comfort of a house that will soon feel like home.

28 All the properties are licensed by the CTO and are maintained under the umbrella of the Cyprus Agrotourism Company, an affiliate company of the CTO and whose members are the owners of the houses. Most properties are open year-round, so are ideal for botanists, birdwatchers and hikers, for whom Cyprus in the early spring is a must. Tourist villas Scattered around the countryside are tourist villas offering high standards of accommodation.

These are individual houses with pools, and many are built in local architectural style. Other accommodation There is a wide range of accommodation ranging from hotels to self-catering establishments, varying in size and capacity and offering everything from the very basic accommodation facilities to the most exclusive features. These are located in villages, such as Agros, Lefkara, Polis/Latsi, Kato Pyrgos, Drouseia, Neo Chorio, , , , , Spilia and others. Camp sites The four camp sites licensed by the CTO are: Kalymnos Beach (Governor’s Beach), Lemesos (Limassol) District, and three in the Pafos district; Zenon Gardens; Feggari at ; and Polis Camping. However, there 29 is another campsite operating at Troodos, Tourist Establishments, which is available The Troodos Campsite, which is run by from the CTO Information Offices. the Cyprus Forestry Department. Cyprus Agrotourism Company Kalymnos and Feggari are open all year CTO-19 Lemesos Avenue round, the other coastal ones open March Melkonian Building to October and Troodos opens from May CY-1319 Lefkosia to October, weather permitting. Facilities Tel +357 2234 0071 at each site include showers, toilets washing facilities, mini-market and a snack bar or restaurant. The Kafenion (coffee shop) is a national institution. This is the main meeting place of the village and the place to head for if you need assistance of any kind. During daytime it is where the elderly men come to relax, play a game of tavli (backgammon) and put the world to rights. The younger men gather here after work. The kafenion serves coffee, soft drinks and few snacks. Further information regarding accommodation is available from the CTO Guide to Hotels and Other

30 31 Countryside Activities European E4 long distance path It is now possible to walk the length of Europe, thanks to the European E4 long distance path. Starting in Gibraltar, the path traverses Spain, France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Bulgaria and Greece; then it is a short air trip to Crete and on to Cyprus. The Cyprus section, which has been set up as a joint venture between the Forestry Department of the Ministry of Agriculture and the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, connects Larnaka and Pafos airports. Along the way, it passes through areas of outstanding natural beauty, places of ecological importance and historic and archaeological sites. All the roads and tracks on the route are well signposted and the CTO has published a booklet of the Cyprus section, splitting it into comfortable daily sections, with the distance and time needed to cover each one. It also gives useful information on the geology, flora, fauna and points of interest along each section of the route.

32 Hiking and rambling The Cyprus Tourism Organisation and the Forestry Department have created over sixty nature trails to assist hikers and ramblers enjoy the island’s hills and vales. The trails, some linear and others circular, help walkers discover the most fascinating corners of Cyprus. The terrain varies from that of Cape Gkreko in the southeast, through the Troodos Mountains, the foothills and forests to the Akamas peninsula in the west. The trails, which are designed to take in areas of outstanding natural beauty and cultural importance, are on gentle gradients and are

divided into three degrees of difficulty with two trails suitable for the disabled. Wooden signboards mark the start of each trial and there are pointers to interesting flora or geological features along each route.

The CTO’s booklet ‘European Long Distance Path E4 and other Cyprus Nature Trails’ gives details of the European E4 Path and all the nature trials with the length, duration and degree of difficulty of each one. You can pick up a copy at the nearest CTO information office. Cycling If your idea of travelling is to have the wind on your face, the sun on your back, the gentle crunch of tyres on gravel, the scent of pines around you and a glimpse of the sea sparkling in the distance, then cycling in Cyprus is for you. 33 Almost all the tourist resorts have bicycles historical sites, monasteries and areas for hire and the CTO’s guidebook Cyprus of outstanding natural beauty. Cycling Routes can be picked up at the It is signposted and there are markers nearest CTO information centre. pointing to viewpoints etc. The guidebook covers main routes For competitive cyclists, the Cyprus connecting towns or regions and Cycling Federation, which is a member excursions within a region. Each itinerary of the International Cycling Union (ICU) describes the route from point to point organises an annual three-day international by altitude and the distance from the start mountain bike competition called ’Afxentia’ point. The total distance is given, that attracts cyclists from all over Europe. as well as the difficulty rating, which is The CCF also runs annual road races. Horse riding Riding is a different way of exploring the hidden secrets of the Cyprus landscape. There are riding stables and ranches all over the island, so you can enjoy the Akamas peninsula, the Cape Gkreko National Forest Park or the pine-scented Troodos Mountains on horseback. Riding allows you to enjoy nature at a slower pace, to hear the birdsong and watch the incredible colours of the last rays of the setting sun over sea or mountain. based on the average moderately fit cyclist. Riding can be enjoyed year-round thanks Recommendations are also made as to the to the island’s climate and there is trekking type of bicycle suitable for each route and and hacking for all levels of competence. the road surface is described. Riding lessons are also available at centres The book includes a map of each route. with well-trained horses and qualified There is also a longer cycling route in the instructors. The CTO has published Troodos mountains. This is split into three a pamphlet Horse Riding in Cyprus and more sections and takes riders from Pano Platres information is available from the Cyprus to the Karvounas mountain saddle; Equestrian Federation. For those who are then to Prodromos and finally back to nervous of horses, donkey rides are also Platres. The route is on forest, rural and available. secondary roads and it passes villages,

34 Skiing and snowboarding: at Sun Valley and the North Face, where Chionistra, the traditional name for Mount there are six alpine standard runs varying Olympus at the summit of the Troodos from 100 to 500 metres. Mountains, means ‘the snowy one’ and There are two langlauf (cross-country) in winter, it is covered with a good layer trails at Sun Valley; one of eight kilometres of snow. There is a brief but vigorous and one of four, which go through some skiing and snowboarding season from wonderful and dramatic scenery. Snowboarding is growing in popularity and plans are afoot to create a park dedicated solely to this up-and-coming sport. Visitors can hire equipment from the ski store at Sun Valley and individual and group tuition is available for skiers and snowboarders. Angling Angling in the dam reservoirs of Cyprus is a very popular pastime and twenty-one reservoirs provide excellent fresh-water fishing throughout the year. Seventeen species of fish are stocked, including trout, bass, carp, perch and roach. ‘Catch and keep’ is allowed at all but two sites, Polemedeia (Lemesos District) and Achna (Ammochostos District), which are ‘catch and release’ only. Anglers need a fishing licence, which can be easily obtained from the Department of Fisheries and Marine Research in Lefkosia (Nicosia) or from the regional offices of the Fisheries Department. December to March. There are four main Ornithology runs, on the southern slopes Sun Valley 1 Cyprus lies on one of the main migratory (Aphrodite) is ideal for novices and Sun paths for bird species from Europe, Asia Valley 2 (Hermes) is for more practised and Africa and there are many endemic skiers. North Face 1 (Dias) and North Face species on the island. Winter is the time to 2 (Hera) are for the experienced. enjoy spectacular flocks of flamingos and The Cyprus Ski Club (CSC) runs t-bar lifts wildfowl at the Salt Lakes. High summer is

35 a quiet time, as the number of breeding As an island, Cyprus became rich in species is relatively small. Autumn is endemic flora and home to a large number excellent for the passage of raptors, of varied species that are typical of the especially in September and October. Mediterranean area as a whole. The season also sees a massive movement National Forest Parks of wildfowl, gulls and herons. There are seven national forest parks, It is in spring that Cyprus is truly glorious, including two within the environs of as the number of birds passing seems Lefkosia (Nicosia) - Athalassa Park and inexhaustible. The spring migration is quite Paedagogical Academy Park, which have a long one, lasting from early March right nature trails, picnic sites, birdwatching through to late April. hides and volleyball and BirdLife Cyprus (BLC) is an NGO that basketball arenas. promotes the protection of birds and their The Troodos National Forest Park habitats. BLC is an affiliate of BirdLife is the largest and includes four Nature Europe and it runs birdwatching trips and a Reserves. It has the largest number of wild birdline, through which visitors can find out plants, including endemics, compared to what is happening on the local scene. anywhere else on the island and has been Botany designated as one of the thirteen In the heat of summer, visitors can be Mediterranean Plant Diversity Hot Spots. forgiven for thinking that Cyprus is bereft The Park has many recreational facilities, of flowers, as the dry rock-strewn hills including picnic sites, a campsite, nature show scant evidence that the island trails, riding and winter sports. is home to an extraordinary variety of wildflowers and orchids, including around 130 endemic plants.

The best time to see Cyprus’ wild flowers is in early spring (February-March), when most species enjoy a short period of blossoming and take advantage of the unusually moist climate.

The county’s floral profile is the result of the catastrophic ice ages when much of the The Cavo Gkreko National Forest Park flora of northern and central Europe was in the southeast of the island is ideal for glacier covered, while the Mediterranean hiking, picnicking, cycling, riding, climbing, basin escaped unscathed, providing a haven swimming and diving. for the evolution of plant life.

36 Rizoelia National Forest Park a complete pattern of lowland vegetation, on the edge of Larnaka town has a picnic most of which is in a good state. site and nature trails. The Lara-Toxeftra area is protected as a Marine Life Reserve and is of The Tripilos-Mavroi Gremmoi Nature international importance, as the beaches Reserve in the middle of the Pafos Forest are some of the last nesting grounds contains the only remaining natural stand of the Green Turtle (Chelonian mydas) of the endemic Cyprus Cedar and Loggerhead Turtle (Caretta caretta). (Cedrus brevifola). This, together with ancient stands of Golden Oak (Quercus The Cyprus Cycling Federation alnifola), and the presence of the Cyprus PO Box 24572, CY-1301 Lefkosia moufflon (Ovis orientalis ophion), Tel: +357 2266 3344 the Bonelli’s eagle (Hieraaetus fasciatus) Fax: +357 2266 1150 and the Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis) make Cyprus Equestrian Federation this area ecologically unique. PO Box 14043, CY-2153 Lefkosia If there are sheep and goats Tel: +357 9967 3333 Fax: +357 2233 8866 wandering around the area E-mail: [email protected] you can be sure the nearby Cyprus Ski Club villages make their own PO Box 22185, CY-1518 Lefkosia Tel: +357 2267 5340 cheeses. The most popular is Fax: +357 2266 9681 Halloumi, a very versatile E-mail: [email protected] cheese that doesn’t lose its Website: www.cyprusski.com Department of Fisheries & Marine shape when cooked. You can Research grill it, fry it, grate it and add Aiolou 13, CY-1416 Lefkosia it to cooked dishes, drop a few Tel: +357 2280 7862 Fax: +357 2277 5955 cubes into hot soup, or just BirdLife Cyprus enjoy it as it is with tomatoes PO Box 28076, CY-2090 Lefkosia and a few olives or a slice of Tel: +357 2245 5072 Fax: +357 2245 5073 chilled watermelon. E-mail: [email protected] The Akamas, Pegeia and Meleti Forests Website: www.birdlifecyprus.org cover the Akamas peninsula, the last remaining area of Cyprus with

37 Religiousand Local Customs and Celebrations Christianity gained an early foothold in Cyprus, when the Apostles Paul and Barnabas introduced the religion in the first century AD. To this day religion is fundamental to the life of almost all , who mainly belong to the Greek Orthodox Church. According to Orthodox belief, each day of the year is dedicated to a particular saint and every church celebrates its saint’s day with a panagiri (fair). These dates are also celebrated as the ‘name days’, more significant than birthdays, of those who bear the name of the particular saint. Every village has one or more churches, many of which contain stunning . The Catholic Lusignan dynasty, which took control of Cyprus in 1197, repressed the Orthodox Church and many clergy withdrew to the mounainous areas.

Many of the churches of the Troodos mountains were of similar design - about the size of a small barn, some with domes and some without. Because of the harsh winter climate, steeply pitched wooden overhanging roofs were added to protect them from heavy snowfalls. The churches are unique in the world. Inside them, fresco painters created vivid images in styles that reflected changing tastes and religious fashions. 38 Ten of the finest examples are designated as World Heritage sites by UNESCO. The frescoes, usually depicting events from the bible, are remarkable in the clarity of detail and colour. The later didactic-style wall paintings evolved because very few of the rural community were literate and the pictures enabled them to learn the rudiments of the gospels. Easter is the main religious celebration in Cyprus, and it starts on Clean Monday, the first

day of Lent, during which many people observe a strict six-week Pascal fast. On Good Friday, the women of the parish gather flowers to decorate the epitaphios (bier) that carries the symbol of Christ crucified round the streets after a solemn service. At midnight on Saturday, everyone lights his Easter lambada (candle) and greets his neighbour with the words, “Christos anesti”, (Christ is risen), to which the reply is “Alithos anesti”, (He is indeed risen). In many churchyards lambradjia (bonfires) are lit and an effigy of Judas is burned. Then the feasting starts. Whole lambs or souvla (large kebabs) are cooked, coloured eggs and flaounes (special Easter buns), are handed round and there is a great deal of singing, dancing and merrymaking.

39 Christmas is a quieter celebration but it children traditionally receive their presents. has a quaint rural custom that almost The centrepiece of the banquet is the certainly has a pagan background. Vasiliopitta (cake), in which a coin is always During the twelve days of Christmas, secreted before baking and whoever finds it is guaranteed good luck for the coming year. The enormous cake is cut after midnight, firstly into four so that it makes the sign of the Cross. It is then divided into smaller pieces and the first two are set aside, one for the poor and one for the house. Then the family, starting with the youngest child gets a slice and finally the guests are served. Keep your eyes open for the tiny stone-built chapels dwarf-like creatures called kalikantzari that dot the island. These appear. They are said to be either the spirits of babies who died before baptism pretty churches are usually or the souls of those who had nobody to located in very beautiful sit vigil with them on the night of their death. The aim of these phantoms is to get isolated spots. into houses and cause havoc. They disguise On Epiphany Day, January 6th, the themselves as visitors but they can only celebration of ta phota (the light) takes count to two, so genuine visitors place. In the morning, everyone takes at Christmas always knock three times. to church a bottle or container in which to Sprigs of olive leaves tied with red thread collect their holy water. Ta Phota marks are nailed to doors and every room is Christ’s baptism by St John and during the sprinkled with holy water. Leading up to service, the papas (village priest) blesses Christmas, housewives bake honey cakes, water in a large font and then ladles it into shortbread and special bread sprinkled with the receptacles for the congregation to sesame. After church on Christmas carry away and purify their homes and morning, the Advent fast is broken with livestock. The priest also visits each home traditional egg and lemon soup. to sprinkle every room to dispel any evil New Year sees the feast of Agios Vasilios spirits. In addition, people light olive leaves (the Greek Santa Claus) and this is when in a kapnistiri (earthenware or silver

40 incense burner) and make the sign of the Music is usually provided Cross through the aromatic smoke. Later, at coastal towns, a beautiful service is held by a fiddler or, when the party at which the priest casts a Cross into the really warms up, by a less sea and a crowd of young men and boys dive in to retrieve it and hand it back traditional but equally popular to him. bouzouki group. Celebrations Baptisms, weddings and funerals are attended by almost everyone in the village and dancing go on till the and surrounding area. early hours. The parents have no role in the baptism ceremony and some mothers still observe the custom of staying outside the church. The godparents recite the Pistevo (Creed) on the infant’s behalf, and then oil is added to the water in the font and blessed. The child is stripped, placed in the font and water is poured over its head. The priest and godparent anoint it with oil, making the sign of the cross. The priest then takes sacred miro (precious oil prepared in ) and makes crosses on the child’s forehead, cheeks, arms, legs, feet and palms. Three tufts of hair are cut from the baby’s head before it is dried and dressed in new clothes supplied in triplicate by the godfather. The godparents then hold the child in their arms and its first communion is administered. If you happen to be in a village during a traditional wedding or religious fair, do stay and enjoy the event.

41 A wedding is a time of great feasting, Orthodox monasteries, sometimes for two or three days. In western Cyprus, a huge copper cauldron churches, festivals and is placed over a wood fire and resi is customs, as well as prepared. This is a tasty concoction of cracked wheat and lots of pork and lamb, ecclesiastical museums and which are slowly cooked until the meat falls off the bones. These are removed and religious art. You can pick up it is cooked and stirred again until it turns a copy of the CTO guidebook into a glutinous porridge-like substance in which a spoon will stand up. on Religious Routes at any On the day, traditional music plays as the CTO Information Office. barber shaves the groom, before his The church bell rings as the fiddler leads koumbari (best men) dress him in his the groom with his father and with all his wedding suit. The bride is dressed by her koumbari through the village to church. attendants and in the meantime, the village The bride is accompanied by her women bring out the bridal mattress for attendants and preceded by two children the priest to bless before they attach small carrying large beribboned candles and crosses of red ribbon to each corner. another carrying the two circlets that will To ensure that the first-born child is male, be placed on the heads of the bride and a small boy is rolled across the mattress. groom during the service. The women then pick up the mattress and After the ceremony the couple lines up dance it around the courtyard, to the with their parents to greet the guests and accompaniment of a fiddler. The mothers offer them traditional sweet almond cakes of the couple fold clean sheets into a cross or sugared almonds. The fiddler plays as over the mattress and dance it around the bride and groom perform a swaying again before throwing money on it. A series of carefully planned Religious Routes, which are co-funded by the European Union, are designed to portray the spiritual life of Cyprus through its

42 bridal dance while everyone, starting with the parents, pins money to their clothes. An evening of eating, drinking and dancing follows. Families are not shunned in death. The deceased is laid out in the house in a simple coffin with his face covered with a lace cloth and fragrant herbs. Friends and neighbours arrive to offer sympathy and sit and mourn with the bereaved while women chant the praises of the dead. These myrologia (dirges) are an ancient tradition and are always sung by women. After the church service, everyone goes in procession to the kimitirio (cemetery) and pariorka consisting of bread, wine, halloumi cheese or olives is offered at the graveside. Don’t be surprised if someone waves a small pot of smoking olive leaves around you – you are being blessed. This is ‘kapnisma’, or Holy smoke, a religious cleansing procedure, and you are greatly honoured. Wave your cupped right hand through the smoke and draw it towards you, then make the sign of the cross.

43 THE Rural year IN Cyprus Cypriots hold strongly to their traditions, which are manifested in religious celebrations, neighbourhood fairs and folk festivals and every village church has its own panagiri (patron saint’s day), which the villagers celebrate with food and drink, singing and dancing.

44 January 1 New Year. 6 Epiphany - Celebrations in coastal towns and villages. 24 & 25 Agios Neophytos Day fair at Agios Neophytos. , Pafos District. Agia Napa Cultural Winter. Cultural Winter. Ski season in full swing. Ploughing and pruning of vineyards begins.

February 1 & 2 Presentation of Christ at the Temple fair, at Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery, Pafos District. Date varies Carnival in all major towns. Date varies Green Monday - Beginning of Lent. Tangerine festival at , Lemesos District. Kite flying competition at Deryneia, Ammochostos District. Agia Napa Cultural Winter. Paralimni Cultural Winter. Cycling Race “Sunshine Cup – VORKLINI” (UCI E1 cat). Troodos International FIS Annual Race. Almond blossom in bloom.

March 24 & 25 Evangelismos - Feast of the Annunciation - fairs at , Lefkosia District and Kalavassos, Larnaka District. Agia Napa Cultural Winter. Paralimni Cultural Winter. Cycling Race “Sunshine Cup – Afxentia”. Cycling Race “UCI World Cup Marathon” (MTB Marathon). Birdwatching trips. International skiing competition at Troodos.

April Cereal harvest begins. Date varies Easter. “Easter festivities” On Easter Sunday, Monday and Tuesday traditional games are organised in many villages.

May 1 Mayday celebrations islandwide. Festival of Cyprus customs, traditions, folk dances and music at Dali, Lefkosia District. 4 & 5 Agia Irini Day fair at , Larnaka District. Strawberry festival at Derynia, Ammochostos District. Rose Festival, Agros, Lemesos District. Mid May Anthestiria Flower Festival at Germasogia, Lemesos District. 45 20 & 21 Agios Constantinos and Agia Eleni Day fairs at Deryneia, Ammochostos District and , Pafos District. Birdwatching trips.

June 17 & 18 Agios Leontios Day: fair at Pervolia, Larnaka District. Troodos – The green heart of Cyprus, Platres, Lemesos District. Cultural Festival at Arsos, Lemesos District. Geroskipou Delight Day, Geroskipou, Pafos District. Cherry Festival, , Lefkosia District. Annual Shakespeare play at Kourion theatre, Lemesos District. “Cherry Festival” at Platanistasa village, Lefkosia District. Agia Napa Summer Cultural Events. Date varies Pentecost - Kataklysmos Fair – festival of the flood.

July 25 & 26 Agia Paraskevi day fair at Geroskipou, Pafos District. Agricultural Exhibition, Solea area, Troodos. Commandaria Festival at , Agios Georgios , Doros, , , Silikou, Agios Mamas, , Kapileio, and Limnatis, Lemesos District. Moonlight concerts at Kourion theatre. International Folk Dance Festival at , Lemesos District. Resi Festival at Letymbou, Pafos District. Paralimni Cultural Summer Festival. Classical Car Rally, Pano Platres. International Folk Dances Festival, Pissouri village. Cultural Events at village, Larnaka District. Cultural Events at Episkopi village, Lemesos District. Regional Cultural Week of Mountatin Resorts of Lemesos District. (Pano Platres, , Foini, Mandria, , Pera Pedi, , Kouka and villages).

August Musical Summer evenings at Polis. 14 & 15 Assumption of the Virgin Mary fairs at Kykkos and Chrysorrogiatissa Monasteries and at Chrysospiliotissa Churches in Deftera, Lefkosia District, , Ammochostos District and Kiti, Larnaka District. Folk Art Festival, Marathasa area, Troodos.

46 Flavours of Cyprus, Marathasa Troodos. Arkadia Festival at Kallepeia, Pafos District. Dionysia Wine Festival at , Pafos District. Commandaria Wine Festival at Kalochorio, Lemesos District. Pastelaki carob toffee festival at , Lemesos District. Pafia Aphrodite Festival at Kouklia, Pafos District. Folk Music Festival, , Pafos District. Village festivals at Alona, , Platanistasa, Kourdali, Spilia and Polystipos, Lefkosia District; Vouni, , Arsos, Vasa and Agros, Lemesos District and Pegeia, , , , Kritou Marotou and Tsada, Pafos District. Peach festival at . Carob harvest begins. Summer events at Spillia – Kourdali villge, Lefkosia. Cultural August – Pano Platres, Polystipos. “Cultural Festival of Southern Marathasa” (Troodos Mountains), Lemesos district, organised by the communities of Prodromos, , Treis Elies, Agios Dimitrios, Palaiomylos and . “Cultural Festival” in village, Lemesos District. “Pafia Aphrodite Festival”, Kouklia village, Pafos. Cultural Festival of Agros village, Lemesos District. Annual Cultural Festival at Pervolia village, Larnaka. Summer Nights in Polis. Agia Napa Summer Cultural Events. Food & dancing feasts in almost all villages across the island the week including the 15th of August (Dormition of Virgin Mary).

September 7 & 8 Nativity of the Virgin Mary Day fairs at Kykkos and Chrysorrogiatissa Monasteries and at Panagia Iamatiki Church at Arakapas, Lemesos District. Tamassia: Cultural events at Tamassos, Lefkosia District. Traditional food and Cyprus wine, Pitsilia Area, Troodos. Open day at the donkey sanctuary, Vouni, Lemesos District. Palouze (grape desert) festival at Vouni, Lemesos District. 21 & 22 Agios Fokas day fair at Athienou, Larnaka District. Palouze (grape desert) festival at Arsos, Lemesos District. Wine Festival, Krassochoria villages, Lemesos District.

47 Fairs at and , Lefkosia District. Palouze (grape desert) festival at , Lemesos District. Start of the grape harvest. Pastelli Festival at Anogyra village, Lemesos District. Birdwatching trips. Palouze Fair at Vouni village, Lemesos district, tel. 25943343. Agia Napa Annual Festival. European Heritage Day.

October 3 & 4 Agios Ioannis Lampadistis Day festival at , Lefkosia District. Afamia Grape and Wine festival at Koilani, Lemesos District. 17 &18 Agios Loukas Day fairs at Kolossi and Koilani, Lemesos District, Aradippou, Larnaka District and , Lefkosia District. Palouze (grape desert) festival at Polystipos, Lefkosia District. Birdwatching trips. Start of green olive harvest.

November 2 & 3 Festival at Agios Georgios Mavrovouno Monastery, . 7 & 8 Feast of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel fairs at Archangelos Michael Monastery at , Lefkosia and Agios Michael church at , Lefkosia District. 20 & 21 Fair celebrating the Virgin Mary at Agros. Birdwaching trips. Musical Sundays, organised by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation. Agia Napa Cultural Winter. December 25 Christmas. Christmas Festivities, Agia Napa. Agia Napa Cultural Winter. Christmas Celebrations, Deryneia. Agia Napa New Year’s Eve Celebrations. Harvesting of black olives and making of olive oil. Lambing season begins. Note: The official website of the Cyprus Tourism Organisation provides comprehensive information on the updated calendar of events, www.visitcyprus.com

48 49

REFERENCE

TOWN

VILLAGE

GERMASOGEIA MUNICIPALITY

LOCALITY NAME

LINE OF AREA UNDER TURK. OCCUP. SINCE 1974

CHURCH / MONASTERY

UNESCO SITE

ANCIENT SITE

MUSEUM

ACCOMODATION IN RURAL AREAS

HIKING

CYCLING

ANGLING

VAHKIS TAVERN

SALT LAKE / DAM

THEMATIC PARK

FLORA 1 (FLAT)

FLORA 2 (MOUNTAINOUS) Route1 The Southeast Area (Kokkinochoria- Red Soil villages) Distance: approximately 100 kilometres

ñ Mainly agricultural with tourist hot spots along the coast ñ Interesting village churches and small museums ñ Good, easy, cycling routes ñ Good bird-watching areas ñ Dramatic coastal scenery with splendid walks ñ Accommodation Leave the Larnaka/Agia Napa motorway at the exit for Xylotymvou and go left onto the E303. Pass Xylotymvou village on your right and turn left onto a road signposted to Agios Rafail and . Here you will find a cluster of eight churches, one of which - the little 15th century barrel-vaulted convent of Agia Marina with its cloistered garden - is worth a visit. You will find this beside the large modern church of Agios Rafail.

Continue on the E303. This area is the eastern end of the fertile central plain (Mesaoria). Here, wheat and barley grow in the fields on either side of you during winter. After 8.5 kilometres, turn right at a road signposted ‘ 1km’ and you will come to Akhna Dam. A popular angling and birdwatching spot, the dam is part of the Southern Conveyor Project, which brings water 52 to the area. The hides are on the opposite side (drive across the top of the dam). A little further on is the 16th century church of Agios Georgios Teratsiotis. Continue on this road to the small

N WE S agricultural village of Avgorou, in the centre of which is a large, modern church. Opposite is a tiny park, behind which is a small domed church dedicated to the Panagia (the BV Mary). Close by are two fine examples of the stone-built houses of the region. Also of interest is the small domed church of Agios Georgios with its low belfry decorated with bas-relief. The Ethnographical (Folk Art) Museum, housed in a beautifully restored house, is a short distance away. 53 Go onto the F306 for Frenaros. towards the cemetery. The church is about The cornfields will give way to fields of red a kilometre down this road. soil planted with potatoes, carrots and As you enter Deryneia village centre, kolocassi (a root vegetable akin to the go left at the signpost ‘Deryneia Polynesian taro, with huge elephant-ear Folkloric Museum’. After 100 metres, leaves) and citrus groves. park. Walk down the road to the small Frenaros is at the heart of the church of the Panagia (the Virgin). Kokkinochoria. It has some attractive There are some fine examples of local traditional houses with courtyards and architecture in the small streets around the arches. For many years, it was a centre of church. The Folkloric Museum is nearby. This small museum gives a very good picture of rural domestic life of times past but for a look at the more recent history of the island, a visit to the Cultural Centre of Occupied Famagusta is a must. Also worth visiting is the old church of Agios Georgios, which is nearby. As Deryneia is on a main tourist route, there are plenty of restaurants and coffee shops. To leave, drive past the church of the Panagia and take the first left turn. Go left again, then right at the signpost for Sotira, onto the F316. basket weaving, particularly the large deep Sotira is a large agricultural village with baskets in which potatoes were fine examples of rural architecture. transported. At the entrance to the Go left onto a narrow road about 350 village, go left onto the F305 and drive metres after you pass the 50kph sign to the village centre. Go left to the at the village entrance. mediaeval Archangelos Michael church, Ahead are several windmills for which the which has two domes. There are some area is renowned. Go left at the fork in the interesting old houses around the narrow road and you will come to the elegant little streets of this village. In the car again, drive church of Agios Mamas, which is possibly back onto the main street, and head for 12th century but rebuilt in the 15th Deryneia. Before you leave Frenaros, you century. Several examples of mud-brick can take a side trip to the tiny Agios dwellings are nearby. Head for the Andronikos church that stands alone in the Metamorphosis (Transfiguration) Church. middle of fields. To get there, go right

54 The age of the church is unknown but the Panagia Agia Anna. An unusual feature reconstruction took place in 1553. of this church is the vaulting, which is Large trees almost hide the building. decorated with porcelain plates, mostly There is also a small ecclesiastical museum from the 18th century. nearby. To leave, go right at the end of the To leave Sotira, go onto the E304 just paved area and follow the one-way after a right bend in the road. Pass the system, going left at the sign for the dried bed of Paralimni Lake on your left E305 and B3. This will bring you back and go straight ahead. Follow the signs for to the traffic lights. Go left and then the town centre and town hall, and park by left again at the roundabout, the big church. signposted to Protaras. Go right at the next roundabout, signposted to Profitis Ilias. Down the hill you will see the tiny church of Profitis Ilias standing on a rocky outcrop. The church is modern but built on the foundations of an old one. The view from the top is wonderful, if you feel like climbing 100 steps! Go right onto the E306. You are now at the beach resort of Protaras. Go left at the sign for Cavo Gkreko. Head up the hill and, turn left at a small sign directing you to the beach. Paralimni means ‘beside the lake’. The winding road takes you down to a In the early part of the last century, the lovely cove known as Konnos. You are lake was drained as part of an anti-malaria now in the Cavo Gkreko (Cape Greco) project and a dam was built in 1964. National Forest Park, which covers Paralimni is the administrative centre of the an area of 385 hectares and includes car Kokkinochoria, with a police headquarters, parks, cycling lanes and nine nature trails. hospital, hypermarket and a good shopping At Konnos Bay, huge limestone rocks area. There are cafés and restaurants lend a peculiar wildness to the scenery. around the paved square. Pine, acacia and cypresses cover the almost Next to the large Agios Georgios church vertical slope leading down to the sea. is an old church dedicated to the same There are seats where you can sit in the saint and dating from the 19th century. shade and a small café is nearby. Beside that is the tiny domed Church of

55 The windmills that can still wild garlic, mallow, anemones and ranunculus carpet the hillside. Kotschy’s be seen dotting the countryside bee orchid (Ophrys kotschyi) can also be in this area were once used found here. to draw water from the ground for agricultural irrigation. Most of them are no longer in use. Go back to the main road. Turn left at the signpost ‘F314 Cavo Gkreko’. Approximately 300 metres along this road you can take a side trip to the small chapel of Agioi Anargyroi and an impressive sea-cave beneath it. It is not possible to drive all the way to the promontory, as the land is fenced off, so drive as far as the fence, park your car and enjoy the beauty of the area with its towering vertical cliffs and rock shelves. The crystal clear water is a paradise for scuba diving and snorkelling. There is always a fresh cool breeze blowing along the cape, no matter how hot the weather. Drive back to the main road, follow the sign for Agia Napa and after a few Rejoin the main road to Agia Napa and metres, take the second road to the go left at the signpost ‘Thalassa Agia left (the dirt road), signposted ‘Parking Napa Museum’. Stay on this road, and Place, View Point’. This takes you to a you will see the museum on your left at car park, from which you can walk up onto a crossroads. The museum, which is open the top of the crag. There is an impressive 7-days a week, houses an impressive modern statue of sea birds in flight at the collection of maritime and sea-faring life. viewpoint, and you can look down to the Walk two hundred metres along the main lighthouse to your left and sea caves to street from the museum to get to the Agia your right. Cape Greco is renowned for Napa Monastery. wild flowers in the spring; irises, gladioli,

56 The local authorities in this Napa, then the signs for the Thalassa Museum, going left at the ‘Stop’ sign. When area are extremely active in you get to the bottom of the hill the organising both winter and Museum will be opposite you. Go right and you are now back on the route. summer events for visitors For those who don’t want to take and local people. the side trip, drive for approximately 6.5 kilometres from the traffic lights, Back in your car, drive to the and turn left at the signpost to Agia Monastery junction and go left. Thekla Church. This little white church To visit the picturesque harbour, with its perched on a small hill by the seashore is a fishing boats and cafés, go straight at the former monastery that was built on a much traffic lights. From the harbour area, a earlier Byzantine site. A few metres south paved footpath runs all the way to Agia of the chapel is the saint’s shrine, which Thekla to the west and almost to Cavo is cut out of the solid rock. Local legend Gkreko to the east. If you give the says that it is the foundation of a Christian harbour a miss, go right at the traffic basilica from around the 6th century AD lights onto the E309, signposted to but no evidence supports this claim. . Back on the main road, go left at the Dedicated walkers and nature lovers can sign ‘Potamos Liopetriou’. take a side trip to an unspoiled area on the Potamos (Liopetriou) is the only creek outskirts of the town. After 2.5 kilometres, in Cyprus. There is a beach of fine white turn right at the sign for Xylofagou, go sand near the picturesque small fishermen’s over the motorway bridge and join the church and the remains of a Venetian motorway, heading towards Paralimni. watchtower. Along the length of the creek, After approximately 1 kilometre, leave the which is a fishing haven with several motorway at an exit that has no signposts, restaurants, you will come across many just the word ‘Exit’. This brings you into an small boats laden with brightly coloured uncultivated area, through which part of baskets and nets. the European Path E4 passes (See Section Return to the main road, go over the 1, Chapter 7, Countryside Activities). motorway to Liopetri. The village car There are no designated routes here, park is opposite a restored stone building you can just wander at will. In the spring, known as the ‘Akhyronas Barn’, a national the area is renowned for its profusion of memorial to four heroes of the island’s wild flowers. struggle for liberation. To get back on the route, re-join the Liopetri is famous for its potatoes. In the motorway and follow the signs for Agia village square, there are several coffee

57 shops (kafenion) and the mediaeval church is dedicated to Our Lady of the Forests. of Panagia Eleousa, built in Byzantine style. The monastery was built around a church, This large domed building has two belfries, possibly from the 8th or 9th century, arches and a vaulted ceiling. The streets in whose sanctuary was a rock-cut chamber, this area afford some good examples of inside which there is still a well containing rural architecture. water. To the right of the imposing Leave the village and head for gateway is a two-storey gatehouse, whose Xylofagou. Stay on this road until you boar’s head fountain is thought to be come to a T-junction. Turn right onto Roman. The gatehouse and the octagonal the B3, signposted ‘Dekelia’. At the marble fountain-house in the courtyard small roundabout, go left and beside a large may have been part of a private house. new church, you will see the 16th century The monastery fell into disuse in 1790 and domed church of Agios Georgios. it now houses the Agia Napa Conference Centre, serving various churches in the Near the village of Xylofagou, in a vertical Middle East and the local Anglican and cliff east of Cape , is a labyrinthine cave German communities worship at the small known as ‘The Cave of the Forty Martyrs’. chapel in the gatehouse. The two Here, according to local legend, forty magnificent trees in front of the monastery martyrs of Orthodoxy were buried. The are the sycamore figs (Ficus sycamorus) Forty Martyrs of Sebasteia were Christian of the Bible and are reputed to be more soldiers in the Roman army who chose than six hundred years old. These trees to die rather than renounce their faith. were included in a famous poem by the Fossilised bones from a much earlier Nobel Prize winner, George Seferis. period have also been found in the cave and these are believed to be those of “Thalassa” Agia Napa Municipal Museum animals long extinct. The cliff is about forty of the Sea metres high, and the cave entrance is Monday 9:00-13:00, twelve metres above sea level. Any attempt Tuesday - Saturday 9:00-17:00 to enter the cave is dangerous and (October - May) therefore not recommended. Nevertheless, Tuesday - Saturday 9:00-13:00, 18:00-22:00 it’s a nice story on which to end a tour (June - September) of the Kokkinochoria. Deyneia Folkroric Museum To rejoin the motorway, go back to the Monday - Saturday 9:00-17:00 village roundabout and go left. Then go Avgorou Ethographic Museum left at the sign for Larnaka and Agia Monday - Friday 08:30-13:30, Napa. This road will take you back to the Wednesday - Thursday 16:00-18:00 motorway. (June - October) Agia Napa Monastery dates from the 15:00-17:00 (November - May) Venetian rule in Cyprus (1489 -1571) and

58 Thalassa Agia Napa Municipal Museum of the Sea

59 Route 2 The Central Plain Distance: approximately 80 kilometres

ñ Arable and livestock farmlands with small agricultural towns and villages ñ Interesting geological features and terrain ñ Excellent easy walking and cycling ñ Monasteries and ancient churches ñ Traditional architecture and village crafts Leave the Agia Napa motorway at exit 57, go right onto the E301 to Kellia, and take the left fork at the signpost to Agios Antonios. ‘Kellia’ means cells, indicating that the 9th century Agios Antonios church may be on the site of an older monastery, or that this was an area favoured by hermits. Go back to the main road and as you drive through the village, you will pass an old stone water tank on your right.

As you drive towards Troulloi the surrounding countryside is completely barren, however it is interesting as the changing colours of the rocks show the various mineral deposits. There is the cleft of an old mine in the hillside to the right of the road about 3.5 kms after Kellia. Go right at the signpost to Agios Georgios Monastery, which is in a palm grove to your left. Originally built in the 9th century, the recently restored

60 monastery gets the name Mavrovouni (Black Mountain) from the dark hillsides surrounding it. It is open seven-days a week and the friendly monks welcome visitors.

N WE S

Signs suggest that the extraction of copper ore in this area began in pre-Christian times and between 1935 and 1939 many tons of gold-bearing ore were extracted. Copper is no longer exploited here but umber is still processed at the village and you will see the umber works on your left as you leave the monastery to re-join the main road and go right.

61 As you enter Troulloi village square, you opposite the old market building. will see the 16th century church of Agios The ancient city kingdom of Golgoi is to Mamas to your right. The key is kept at the the northwest of the village. priest’s house behind the church. A walk To leave, follow the signs for Lefkosia round the streets of the village will reveal (Nicosia) and, a hundred metres after many fine examples of architecture typical the t-junction, you can take a side trip of southeast Cyprus. by going left and driving to the Leave the village on the road to the abandoned village of Petrofani. left of the square, signpost ‘ Sheep and goats now occupy the old E4’. This takes you through olive groves mud-brick houses but you can see how and cornfields. At the end of this road, these buildings were built hundreds birdwatchers keen to see goldfinches, of years ago. A further two kilometres can take a side trip by going left at the will take you to a place called Malloura, signpost to a Monastery. where remnants of the late Roman and the Frankish periods, including a head The main route goes right to of Apollo, who was worshipped here, Avdellero, a tiny village full of old have been unearthed. mud-brick and stone houses. To leave, take the road that you passed on your Back on the main road, go left and, way into the village (the signpost to after 8.5 kilometres, go right onto Athienou is in Greek). As you climb the A2 and drive to Dali, passing the through the stark landscape, there are village of Lympia on your right. open views back towards the coast. As you At the roundabout at the entrance to descend, the terrain changes to fertile fields Dali, go left and left again to the site in which fodder crops of grain and alfalfa of Ancient Idalion once an important city- grow for the livestock that produces the kingdom. The site is still under excavation, milk for which Athienou is famed. you can see much of the dig, including an ancient olive press, from the track Athienou is a small township, notable for surrounding it. Local legend associates its interesting houses. It is renowned for its Idalion with Aphrodite and her lover, yoghurt, halloumi and roasted peanuts. Adonis, who is said to have been killed by a There are several modern bakeries boar nearby as he awaited a tryst with the producing the famous ‘Athienitiko’ bread, goddess. cooked on stones. The patron saint of Athienou is Agios Fokas and the village has Go back to the main road and go right. the only church to his name in Cyprus. At the roundabout go straight ahead To reach it, go right behind Agios Georgios to the small Byzantine church of Agios church and you will find it on your right, Demetrianos. This charming little church

62 is a delightful place to visit. On the west Pyrga is in a valley overshadowed by wall, there is an interesting ‘donor’ picture Stavrovouni mountain. The tiny royal which is dated 1317 and shows the donor chapel of Agia Ekaterina is on your right of the church and his wife kneeling as you enter the village. The church is a in prayer. Franco-Byzantine building of 1421, Note: Although not listed on this route, embodying a fragment of Lusignan history. the area around Dhali has many interesting It contains portraits of the Lusignan King churches, such as the one at Agios Janus and Queen Charlotte, which have Sozomenos, which is a rock cave that was inscriptions in the French languages. once inhabited by a hermit called On leaving the village, you will see a good Sozomenos. Just below the cave, example of terraced forestation on your amid the ruins of an abandoned village, left. The landscape is lowland forest with is an impressive Gothic structure. Built pine and thickets of tall shrubs. during mediaeval times, this church was Go right onto the E104 at the end dedicated to St, Mammas, but was never of the road and follow the signs for completed. Larnaka. Drive along the Go back to the roundabout, go straight bypass to Agia Anna. This tiny village has along the Dali bypass and at the end attractive houses built in traditional style, of the road, go left, and immediately many of which are restored. There is also right at the sign to Agioi Apostoloi. a Vakhis Project taverna serving authentic Stay on the main road through the local cuisine. village of , following signs The main agricultural products of this area to the church. The church of the Holy are olives and carobs. As you drive Apostles dates from the 12th century and towards the next village, the valley of the contains some of the best frescoes from river Tremithos is on your right. that period. The key can be obtained at the As you near Kalo Chorio, you will see last house on the left. livestock farms and a chain of wells either Return to the main road and go right side of the road. on the B1. A side trip can be taken to the The road to the motorway for Monastery of Agia Thekla by taking a small travellers from Lefkosia (Nicosia), road to the left just after the crossroads Agia Napa and the Larnaka tourist at . On the main route, go left area is to the left after the large at the sign for Pyrga. To your right is church. Travellers from Lemesos Kornos, where, during the summer (Limassol), Pafos and Larnaka town months, women make flowerpots, water should stay on the E104 to the jugs and other items with clay from the roundabout. surrounding area.

63 Route 3 Larnaka West Coast Distance: approximately 80 kilometres

ñ A quiet area, famous for its market garden produce, melons and citrus fruit ñ Delightful well-kept villages and fascinating ancient sites ñ Famous Byzantine mosaic ñ Excellent easy walking and cycling along gentle hills and farm roads ñ Mainly undeveloped pebble beaches with some tiny sandy bays ñ Good bird-watching areas ñ Accommodation Drive towards Larnaka airport from the roundabout at the junction of the Larnaka-Lemesos (Limassol) and Larnaka-Agia Napa motorways and go left at the sign to Hala Sultan Tekke.

The Hala Sultan Tekke stands surrounded by palms and cedars overlooking the Salt Lake. It is one of the most important shrines in Islam and is reputed to be the burial place of Umm Haram, a relative of the Prophet Mohammed, who was killed in a fall from her horse during an Arab raid in the 7th century AD. The octagonal mosque, built in 1816, is considered the finest example of Ottoman architecture in Cyprus. The Tekke and its grounds have been completely renovated. 64 In winter, the Salt Lake, which is one of the two main wetlands in Cyprus, is home to colonies of flamingos and other migratory birds. The lake is below sea level and seawater seeping in through the porous lime rocks leaves a thick

N WE S deposit of salt as it dries out. The Salt Lake is on the Ramsar list as a wetland of international importance. Leave the Tekke, double back round the airport roundabout and follow the signs for Kiti. Birdwatchers can take a side trip to an extension of the Salt Lake known as Spiros’ Pool and the hide at the Water Treatment plant by going left in village at the sign for Meneou Beach.

65 In Kiti, go right at the sign to road, you get an excellent view of Angeloktisi Church and then first left. on its solitary peak The Byzantine church of Panagia to your right. As you approach Alaminos, Angeloktisi (Built by the Angels) was built behind a modern house on your left is a around 1,000 AD on 5th century ruins. good example of a rural two-storey It was rebuilt in the 12th century and has farmhouse with upper and lower arches. later additions. It contains a rare and very On your right is the recently reconstructed impressive 6th century mosaic of the Virgin Alaminos tower. Alaminos was the fief and Child, flanked by the Archangels of Philip of Ibelin during the Frankish or Michael and Gabriel with peacock-feather Lusignan Period (1192 – 1489AD) and this wings. The church is open daily, closing and similar keeps at Xylofagou, Pyla and between noon and 14:00 hrs. Kiti are thought to have been watchtowers from that period or the later Venetian one. Back at the main road, go left and head for . At Mazotos you The sheep pens on the approach road can visit the museum of the self-taught to indicate its dairy industry. contemporary artist Costas Argyrou. Drive through the village, go left at the On the way the road is bordered by flat main B1 road and take the left turn farmland with the sea in the distance to for Agios Theodoros at the bridge your left. A camel park and petrol station in the valley. The north side of Agios are on your left at the junction of the road Theodoros is abandoned but the remains to Mazotos. Go straight ahead on the of the stone houses are picturesque. road towards . This is a market After bypassing the village, go left at the gardening area, with fields of tomatoes, t-junction and drive to the coast through artichokes and cucumbers growing in the the rugged Pentaschoinos valley, where rich alluvial soil of the valleys of the rivers dark cliffs overhang the road and orange Xeropotamos, Pentaschoinos and Maroni. groves fill the river valley. At the coast, go right and drive to Zygi. This is a great area for These days Zygi is famous for its fish leisure cyclists. The terrain taverns but in the past it was a busy little is relatively flat and the port and camel trains used to bring carobs for storage in the large stone warehouses roads and farm tracks are to await export. The pier is derelict but the village and warehouses are undergoing uncongested. considerable restoration. After about four kilometres, go right at Leave by taking the road beside the the sign for Alaminos. Look carefully white church, signposted to Maroni because the sign is not clear. From this

66 and go right before two large concrete Archaeological Museum (See Section 1, water cisterns on a hill. Chapter 3, Cultural Heritage). As you approach the village, go right, To leave, follow the signs for Nicosia cross the dry bed of the river Maroni (Lefkosia) and go right to and go left. Go right after the old , a compact little church and left at the end of the road. settlement with traditional architecture. Go left at the old stone house and into At the main road go left, and then the village centre. go right onto the F116 at the signpost to .

Tochni is a picturesque village straddling a gully. On the bridge in the centre is the 19th century Timios Stavros church that stands on the site of a 4th century once said to have been founded by St Helena to house a piece of the . Tochni is a very popular area with hikers and cyclists and has rural accommodation. Cross the bridge, go right and at the end of the road go left onto the E133 to Choirokoitia. Turn right into the village at the sign for Agios Iakovos church. The postal agency and grocery store in the square opposite the church are in traditional buildings. To leave, go to the left of the church back down to the E133, Hala Sultan Tekkesi signposted to . After 200 metres The narrow streets of Maroni give you go left at the sign for Panagia tou a glimpse of some impressive traditional Kampou and go right at the fork. architecture. There is an archaeological dig This will take you to the site of the castle, on the southern outskirts of the village, where on 7 July 1426 the Marmelukes where traces of a settlement from the 16th defeated the army of King Janus, the century BC and an ancient olive press have Frankish king of Cyprus. All that is left are been unearthed. Forty-five stone anchors the remains of a barrel-vaulted room. were recovered from the sea near the site, The left fork takes you to the small church some of which are now in the Larnaka of Panagia tou Kampou (our Lady of the Field), which is usually open. Go back to

67 the E133 and go right to the Neolithic Choirokoitia, a Neolithic settlement site of Choirokoitia. surrounded by a stone wall, is one of the Leave the settlement, go to the main oldest excavated settlements in Cyprus. B1 road and join the Larnaka - Lemesos Remains show that by 6,800 BC, it’s two (Limassol) motorway at junction 14. thousand or so inhabitants lived in beehive-shaped huts of stone and clay. Stavrovouni Monastery (Mountain of the Many of the houses had under-floor graves Holy Cross, mediaeval Santa Croc) sits where the dead were laid to rest in the atop a steep 750m peak that was called foetal position surrounded by gifts and Olympus in ancient times and where a personal effects. The settlement was built temple to Aphrodite stood. The monastery on an easily defensible hillside and dates back to 327 when, legend tells us, the surrounded by a wall. The Choirokoitians ship carrying St Helena, mother of were well-organised goat breeders, who , home from cultivated the land and there is evidence Jerusalem with the True Cross and the of spinning, weaving and pottery. Cross of the , ran before a Flint sickle blades, figurines of fertility gods storm to the coast of Cyprus. and stone vases have been excavated, as The holy woman dreamt that a young man well as necklaces of shells and cornelian. instructed her to build many churches on Houses have been constructed near the the island. On waking, she discovered that site as a pointer to how the people lived. the Cross of the Penitent Thief had Steps and a series of walkways enable miraculously transported itself to the top visitors to see main points of the of the mountain, so she built Stavrovouni settlement and signs describe the key church in which to house it. features of each area. Many of the finds are The monastery contains a large wooden exhibited in the Cyprus Museum in 15th century cross minutely carved with Lefkosia (Nicosia) and the Larnaka District scenes from the life of Christ. It is encased Archaeological Museum. The site is a in a silver reliquary that also contains what UNESCO World Cultural and Natural is believed to be a sliver of the True Cross. Heritage Site. Stavrovouni is a working religious community of monks who follow the Open daily 09:00-17:00 Nov-Feb; ascetic principles of . 0900-1800 Mar, Apr, Sept, Oct; Although women are not allowed to enter, 09:00-19:30 May - August the views from the monastery are spectacular. September-March: 08:00-12:00 and 14:00-17:00 April - March: 08:00-12:00 and 15:00-18:00

68 Choirokoitia Neolithic Site

69 Route 4 Lefkara Area Distance: approximately 75 kilometres

ñ Traditional hill villages famous for lace-making and silverware ñ Many olive and citrus groves, as well as almond and fruit orchards ñ Good walking and cycling country with stunning views down to the coast ñ Interesting churches, monasteries and an ancient site ñ Plenty of accommodation Leave the Larnaka – Lemesos motorway at exit 13 and go onto the E105, signposted to . This village, which has rural accommodation in renovated village houses, is to your left before you climb the chalky ridge to Lefkara. Go right at the signpost to and drive to the village centre. Wandering the meandering streets of the tiny village reveals good examples of the area’s architecture: houses built with horizontal layers of limestone interspersed with pebbles. There is a wonderful view from the tiny church of Archangelos in the field below the square. The church houses some superb 12th century frescoes. Leave by following the sign for . A side trip to Dipotamos Dam, which is a popular angling site and where 70 birdwatchers can often see black storks and pelicans, goes from this road. The main route follows the one-way system through the narrow streets of Pano Lefkara to the car park near the schools.

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Pano Lefkara today is a small township with a couple of hotels, restaurants, banks and a petrol station. The village is famed for lace and filigree silverwork and in years gone by, the women made the lace and their husbands travelled the world to sell it. See Section 1, Chapter 4, Rural crafts and skills. The houses here are not those of farmers but the homes of merchants and artisans. The houses are stone-built, some with doorways providing glimpses of flower-filled and vine-covered

71 courtyards, while others are two-storey mansions, of which the first house on the colour washed residences with balconies left is a very fine example. The village also and intricately patterned tiled floors. has its own rural museum. The women still sit in the street to do As you continue on the road to Vavla, their needlework and the silversmiths’ you will come to Agios Minas, a small workshop doors are open to view. monastery founded in the 15th century. A beautiful stone building houses the Lace Today the nuns paint icons, grow flowers and Silverware Museum. There is also and keep bees and the delicious honey they an interesting waxwork museum. harvest is on sale. Across the road from The panoramic view from the churchyard the monastery is the eye-catching garden at the bottom end of the village is of the tiny church of Agioi Damian and exceptional in early spring when the valley Cosmas. is full of blossoming almond trees. The nearby village of Vavla has lovely Apart from its famous lace stone houses, some of which have been renovated for use by visitors. On entering and silver work, Lefkara Vavla, go right and follow the signs village is also well known for for Lagia (Layia). its architecture. It is one of Lagia sits in a picturesque landscape of olives, low forest and scrub. Its population the few villages in Cyprus has steadily declined over the years and where the houses are built many of the houses are now holiday homes. Go left at the signpost to Ora. almost entirely of local white Ora is best known for its excellent water, stone, which contrasts which is bottled and sold commercially. At the church, go left, signposted beautifully with the terra cotta ‘’, go left again at the main road roofs. and drive to . To leave, follow the exit signs through The village of Odou is one of the most the upper village and, at the cross- attractive villages in Cyprus. Olive and roads, go ahead onto the main road. peach trees surround it and fill the valley Before going right to , stop and below. There is an area called look back across the roofs of Pano Lefkara. Chelidonomoutti that is the home of swallows during part of the year and Kato Drys, another lace-making village nightingales sing in the valley near is tiny and appears to have more churches an old well. than houses. These again are merchants’

72 Drive back the way you came and go Australia during British colonial rule to help right onto the F123 at the signpost to drain marshland in the drive to eradicate Melini. This tiny village still has a tradition malaria. of lace-making and is also mentioned in the At the entrance to , go left life of Agios Irakleidios, which suggests that (signposted to ). The hilltop it was a settlement during the 1st century church of Agios Georgios is up a steep AD. At Melini, go left and head for path to your left. Follow the signs for Eptagonia. Lemesos and go left at the sign to . The viewpoint 250 metres along is well worth a stop, as from it the panoramic serrated skyline stretches from Troodos to the Machairas mountains. Go left again at the signpost to Sanida. The monastery of Zoodochou Pighis is to your left. Pass the hamlet of Vasa on your left and head for .

Carobs used to be the chief crop at Asgata but its main wealth came from the surrounding copper mines. Go right The farmers at Eptagonia (or Eftagonia) at the crossroads in the village, cultivate citrus fruits, particularly signposted to Monagrouli, and then go mandarins. The name of the village means left onto the F137. As you approach ‘seven corners’ - so here goes! , there is a very deep valley to Go right at the first junction, then go your left. left after 50 metres; after a further At the ‘Stop’ sign at the entrance to 100 metres go right (opposite the Kalavasos, you can take a side trip to church) and go left after a further 20 Kalavasos Dam by taking the road to your metres. Go left at the ‘Stop’ sign and left. The beautiful dam is very popular with follow the signs for Lemesos (Limassol). anglers, while the surrounding area is good No, you didn’t go round all seven. hiking and riding country.

On your way to Kellaki, you will travel On the main route, go through the very through an area of citrus, almond and olive narrow streets with the overhanging groves with tall eucalyptus trees in the balconies of the mine managers’ houses. riverbed to your left. Although seen all Some of the traditional houses in the over the island, eucalyptus trees are not village are now holiday accommodation. endemic. They were brought here from The square has some well-preserved old

73 74 buildings, one of which houses a small Continue down the road, under the archaeological and mining museum. motorway and go left on the B1 to join As you leave Kalavasos, you will come to a the Larnaka – Lemesos (Limassol) small park to your right, behind which are motorway at junction 15. a small train and carriage on a metal bridge. and Silverware Museum open These are relics from the mine railway. Mon-Thur 09:30-16:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-16:00, Go down the small road beside the Sunday closed. park to Tenta with its dramatic tented roof. This is the excavation of a Neolithic Tenta open Mon-Fri 09:00-16:00 settlement, smaller than that at nearby Choirokoitia. It features the remains of ancient clay and stone dwelling-places and gives an indication of the way Cypriots lived 9000 years ago.

75 Route 5 Machairas and the South West

Distance: approximately 135 kilometres

ñ From the flat central plain, up through the foothills of the western Troodos mountains ñ Interesting and impressive monasteries and churches ñ River valleys and pine-clad mountain slopes ñ Pretty traditional villages and panoramic views ñ Excellent cycling and walking on specially prepared forest routes ñ Accommodation Leave the Lemesos (Limassol) – Lefkosia (Nicosia) motorway at exit 6 and take the road to . At the village, go right onto the E901, signposted to Lefkosia, then go left at the sign for Deftera. Go right at the end of this road and go left after 150 metres at the signpost ‘Panagia Chrysospiliotissa’. Take the first left and then go right at the t-junction down to the church.

Panagia Crysospiliotissa church (Our Lady of the Golden Grotto) is in a sandstone cave on the east bank of the River. The church contains a rain-inducing of the Virgin that farmers from the surrounding villagers call upon in times of drought. The unusual site may have been a series of catacombs before becoming an

76 early Christian refuge and later a retreat for hermits, as a drawbridge could cut off access. Go back the way you came and go right at the main road, following the signs for Pera. At , to your right, are well

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maintained mud-brick houses with overhanging balconies and carved doors. Go right at the sign for Agios Irakleidios and drive through , once the seat of the ancient bishopric at Tamassos, and at the entrance to , go left to Tamassos. Leave and go left into Politiko and as you drive to Agios Irakleidios Monastery, ahead of you is the Kionia mountaintop radar station that is a landmark visible from Lefkosia (Nicosia)

77 and Larnaka. Go back the way you came As you leave on the road to Klirou and, after the bridge, go right and then (preferably on the E904), you will see left onto the E902. On your right is the Mesaoria plain and Pentadactylos Pera, another attractive village of mountains ahead. Drive down the valley well-preserved two-storey mud-brick between cornfields and peach orchards, houses and interesting churches. follow the sign for Nicosia at the village entrance and go left at the main road. On your left after Kambia is the Machairas The dark red rocks near the river are Forest and the Pediaios river valley is on exposed pillow lava. Go left onto the your right. Go right at and E903 signposted to and head for . and drive up the river valley. On this narrow, twisting road is Mandra A short distance along is a ruined arched tou Kambiou picnic site with barbecue building, all that remains of an ancient hani facilities, tables and toilets. Further up the (inn), a stopping place on the two-day trip hill is a tiny chapel dedicated to Agios from Lefkosia to Palaichori where Onoufrios, an Egyptian hermit whose life travellers could rest and their animals – story is recorded in the porch. Continuing donkeys or camels - could be fed and up the hill, Machairas Monastery comes watered. Further along are large into view. restaurants and holiday homes, as this is a favourite weekend getaway spot for the residents of Lefkosia. The main produce of this valley are vegetables, grapes, almonds and olives. Go right into Palaichori, a village dating from Byzantine times with steep cobbled alleys and stone houses, many of which have grape vines growing up to drape over a rooftop trellis to help keep the house cool in summer. The stream through the The surrounding terrain is typical maquis village centre dries up in the summer with rockroses and myrtle among the but is a cascading torrent in winter. pines. , encircled by the almond The most significant church is that trees from which it derived its income, of Metamorphosis tou Sotiros has distinctive houses of mud brick and (Transfiguration), which is on UNESCO’s stone with tiled roofs, a good view of World Heritage List. Also worth a visit is which is from above as you head for the nearby Byzantine Museum. There are . Go right and drive to . strawberries, potatoes, vegetables and fruit

78 trees growing on the fertile surrounding with glyka, (See Section 1, Chapter 5, land. Food & wine). It has also recently opened an interesting art gallery/museum which Rejoin E903 and go right, heading for displays the work of a well-known icon Agros. On the steep climb, the deep valley painter. to your left is full of vegetable gardens and plane trees and there are vines on the There is plenty of accommodation steep mountainside to the right. in several small hotels and a large one, The summit is Papoutsia – one of the and there are restaurants and tavernas, highest peaks in Cyprus at 1,584 metres. a petrol station and a cottage hospital. Stay on the E903 and, as you near the Leave on the road signposted to left turn into Agros, there is a panoramic Limassol and around Agios Ioannis, view of Troodos and Mount Olympus. you will see tall poplars masking terraces of Agros, at an altitude of 1,150 metres, fruit trees. At the start of the descent after is the regional centre of the Pitsillia. the neat little Commandaria village of A sheltered position and plentiful water , (See Section 1, Chapter 5, from perennial springs result in its having Food & Wine) you will see the Akrotiri some of the prettiest gardens in Cyprus. Salt Lake and the Mediterranean Agros is a popular resort and a great base shimmering in the distance. Next is Kalo for walkers and cyclists. The villagers Chorio, surrounded by vineyards from produce wine, bottled spring water, cash which Commandaria is made. You pass crops such as almonds, walnuts, and rose- through the western edge of Kakomallis water, which is made by distilling the petals Forest on the way to Gerasa, a hamlet of sugar-pink Damask roses that have been of traditional stone houses, surrounded picked before the sun evaporates the oil. by fruit trees and oleanders on the banks Apart from being a useful cosmetic of the Garyllis River to your right. cleanser and moisturiser, rosewater is a The route then goes through an impressive culinary ingredient. If you can’t smell roses steep-sided valley with caves high in the in Agros, you can usually smell smoked cliffside to your left. meat, for it is here that hiromeri, smoked ham, and lountza, smoked pork loin, are One of the most popular uses produced by salting the meat and steeping for rosewater is to flavour it in red wine before smoking it over slow- burning wood. Other meat specialities are the traditional sweet loukanika, Cyprus sausage made from pork, ‘Mahalepi’, which herbs and red wine and pastourmas, beef rubbed with garlic and dried in the sun. is absolutely delicious on a hot The village also caters for the sweet tooth summer’s day.

79 On your right at is the hani Necropolis in 1997 are on display at the (inn) which has been restored and turned Cyprus Archaeological Museum in Lefkosia into a restaurant. Nearby is a fragment of (Nicosia). Tamassos is open Mon - Sun the old cobbled road from Lemesos to the 09:30 - 15:30. Pitsillia. The site is on the Aphrodite Cultural Route. Palodia and Agia Filaxi are now part of suburban Lemesos (Limassol) but the latter still has excellent examples of traditional limestone houses clustered round the old church on your right, from where it is less than a kilometre to junction 27 of the motorway.

Tamassos was a city-kingdom, founded around 4,000BC, but its wealth and prosperity came later, when its prolific supply of copper was discovered. Homer mentions the city as Temesa in his Odyssey, when Athena says to Telemachos, “We are bound for the foreign port of Temese with a cargo of gleaming iron, which we intend to trade for copper.” In around 800BC, the town was occupied by the Phoenicians. Agios Irakleidios Monastery is named Later, Alexander the Great gave the after the first Christian bishop of copper mines to King Protagoras of Salamis Tamassos. The son of a priest of Apollo, as a gesture of thanks for his aid during he was converted by the Apostles Paul and the Siege of Tyre, and in 12AD, King Barnabas, the first missionaries in Cyprus, Herod the Great of Judea leased the mines. after he guided them through the Troodos Excavations commenced in 1889 and Mountains. Irakleidios, to whom many continue to this day. Among the miracles and exorcisms were attributed, discoveries are two subterranean royal was murdered by pagans and buried at the tombs dating from the 6th century BC, site of the present-day monastery. with walls carved to imitate wood. The monastery church, built in the 5th Also excavated are a citadel, the copper century was destroyed and the present processing site and the Temple of Astarte buildings date from the late 18th century. (Aphrodite). Four Egyptian-style stone lions The tomb of the saint can be seen under and two sphinxes found at the Royal the altar of the church. The skull of the

80 Saint is preserved in a silver-gilt reliquary. is that the name comes from the biting The monastery is currently inhabited winds that blow on these hillsides in the by nuns. Although open to visitors, winter. The vows taken by the monks here the monastery is only open to group visits, are as strict as those of Mount Athos and on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, although open to visitors, the monastery from 9:00am to 12:00 midday. is open daily, 08:30-17:30. Fikardou village is a protected monument, as its houses are authentic specimens of 19th century folk architecture. Most are two-storied structures built with sieropetra (rough local ironstone), pebbles and limestone slabs, which support a mudbrick superstructure and slanted tiled roof. The ground floor has a flat doma (roof) accessible from the upper floor and which was used for drying grapes. Wine jars with a hole knocked in the bottom were used as chimney pots. The upper floor was for Machairas Monastery (Monastery of the habitation and the ground floor served Knife) was founded by two hermits from as a storeroom and stable. In many houses, Syria who made a retreat by a well in the a corner of the ground floor was occupied mid-12th century. After the death of the by a linos (wine press) and there are the elder, the young hermit went to remains of a communal linos (wine press) Constantinople to plead for funds to found close to the village square. Several houses a monastery. Emperor Manual Komnenos also had a large room to accommodate granted a charter of independence, a loom. The houses of Katsinoros and an annual financial grant and ownership Achilleas Dimitri have been turned into of much of the surrounding land, enabling a rural museum, which is open the monastery to be completed in 1190. Tues - Fri 09:30 to 16:00, Sat 09:30 -15:30, It burnt down in 1530 and again 1892 Sun 10:30 -13:30. and the present buildings date from 1902. The strange name is said to come from a holy icon of the Virgin found in a cave guarded by a sword. The icon hangs on the iconostasis symbolically guarded by a tiny knife and it is the first thing to be saved if forest fire threatens. Another theory

81 Route 6 Lemesos (Limassol) Forest Distance: approximately 80 kilometres

ñ River valleys, citrus groves and vineyards ñ Interesting churches ñ Excellent walking and angling ñ Spectacular panoramic views ñ Accommodation Leave the Lemesos - Lefkosia (Limassol - Nicosia) motorway at exit 24 and go onto the E128 to Germasogia. Tucked between a cliff face and a riverbed, this village’s narrow streets contain some fine old houses, several tavernas, and a country club. Follow the signs for Germasogia Dam and, as you drive up, you will see market gardens and citrus groves in the riverbed to your right, Note the distinctive rock-face atop a crag on the opposite bank because you will see this from a different angle later.

Anglers and walkers can take the road across the dam wall, signposted to , for some good fishing locations and nature trails. Continue on the E128 through , a rapidly expanding village on a tributary of the Germasogia River. The road now climbs steeply with a deep valley to your left and a rock face to your right. As you get higher, the valley is to your left and there is a wonderful view back towards Lemesos (Limassol) and the coast. 82 When you reach the saddle, you enter the edges of the Kakomallis and Lemesos (Limassol) forests. Several holiday homes have been built in this area, as it picks up cool breezes from the north and south.

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Driving down towards Dieronia, the village of Kellaki is on the hillside opposite and is in the valley below. Dieronia lies on the west bank of the Germasogia River and its chief products are citrus fruits, especially mandarins. Follow the signs for Arakapas, a village lying in a natural amphitheatre and one that has given its name to part of the unique geology of Cyprus. The Arakapas Sequence runs along the southern edge of the Troodos and

83 some of the pillow lavas in this area are on You can take a side trip to the hamlet brown-red iron-rich mudstone. of Profitis Elias, which sits like an eyrie on a hilltop, offering expansive views of the Go left at the signpost to the village surrounding hills and deep valley below. centre and cross the narrow bridge. The enormous eucalyptus trees to the The main route goes onto a good gravel right indicate plentiful water. Go right at road after about a kilometre as it drops both forks in the village and go right down steeply to the valley bottom and again into the square. climbs the other side. On the way, you go through terraces of citrus trees, a small At the far end, on the corner of the road forest, an area of Mediterranean maquis, to is the very beautiful early vegetables plots and finally, as you re-join 16th century church of Panagia Iamatiki. the asphalt, grapevines. The church is renowned for its Italo-Byzantine frescoes. Also look for the Agios Konstantinos, which has some two well-preserved 16th century paintings well-preserved traditional buildings, is one of Saint Mamas and of Saints Mary of Egypt of the Commandaria wine villages and and Zosimos. is a typical Pitsillia village surrounded by vineyards. The tiny church of Agios The road to Sykopetra goes through Konstantinos and Agia Eleni in the village a wooded valley before climbing very centre is characteristic of the region. steeply. The village, which clings almost precariously to the hillside, originally Drive through the village and go right belonged to the Knights Templar. On the at the signpost to Agios Pavlos. hillside below the houses are huge prickly This little village on the southern slopes pear cacti (Opuntia ficus-indica) with large of the Papoutsa peak has abundant water, racquet-shaped ‘leaves’ bristling with very some of which gushes out of the rocks at a sharp spines. In summer the delicious place called Styrakas, which is surrounded brick-red oval fruits, the size of a hen’s egg, by large walnut and plane trees. are peeled and chilled before eating. The Drive through the village, following the fruits are covered with tiny prickles that signs for Kalo Chorio, and then go left pierce the skin, so don’t touch them with at the signpost for Lemesos (Limasol). bare hands. You are now in the heart of the Leave the village on the road Commandaria wine country (See Section signposted to Prophitis Elias and then 1, Chapter 5, Food & Wine). take left fork at the top of the hill, Go left at the t-junction and follow the onto the road to Agios Konstantinos. signs for . Drive through the village until you come to the very old part

84 where the streets are made of concrete Commanderie of the Knights of St John. and are extremely narrow. Park your car The old part of the village is on the slopes and walk along Agiou Mama Street, below and legend says that it was made up following the signs ‘Agios Mamantos of seven ‘quarters’ and had seven churches. 15th Century Church’. The church There are the remains of two watermills is below road level and all you can see by the stream that bisects the village. as you approach is part of the sloping red As you continue, the view opens up and roof. The church houses some of the you can see the village of Akrounta in the island’s best preserved 15th century valley below and the road along which you frescoes. In the churchyard is a restored drove earlier snakes up the hillside olive press. opposite. Just before the road turns away A walk round this part of the village will from this valley, there is a glimpse of give you glimpses of old stone-built houses, Germasogia dam below and opposite, at some of which are restored, large bread eye level is the rock-face on top of a crag ovens, and massive pitharia wine jars. that you passed on the way to Germasogia Dam. To leave, drive back through the village and go left at the small green signpost After driving through a small gully, to Kakomallis Forest Station. After 200 an amazing panorama awaits you. metres, go right at the crossroads onto The vista sweeps from Amathous to your K. Evagorou Street. left, through to the Akrotiri peninsula and beyond. As you descend, you will be driving through the western edges of Kakomallis Many Limassolians have built houses in this Forest. Go left at the main road and go area, as the newly improved road allows left again at the signpost to . them to commute daily from homes on a cool hillside with an extraordinary The map at the village entrance points view. you to the paved village centre, a winery, traditional houses and an old water mill. Go left at the roundabout onto the Leave on the road signposted to motorway. and go right, following the blue road sign at the fork after the village.

As you drive down the mountain, there is a deep river valley to your left. Mathikoloni, the modern part of which lines the main road, once belonged to the Grand

85 Route 7 Lemesos (Limassol) West Coast

Distance: approximately 90 kilometres

ñ West from Lemesos (Limassol) along the Pafos coastline ñ A mediaeval castle and impressive Graeco-Roman ancient sites ñ Wetlands and wildlife ñ Charming rural villages with vineyards and olive groves ñ Panoramic views, great walking and cycling ñ Accommodation Leave the Pafos – Lemesos (Limassol) motorway at the exit for Erimi and Kolossi, go left on the B6, turn right at the sign to Trachoni and go to , which is in the middle of the fertile Lemesos plain, where sugarcane, cotton and the grapes for Commandaria grew in mediaeval times. (See Section 1, Chapter 5, Food & wine) In 1210, the Knights of St John of Jerusalem built the castle as their headquarters and the present three-storey square ‘keep’ dates from 1454. Beside the castle are the remains of a vaulted sugar refinery and the aqueduct that brought the water for working the mill. The small 12th century church of Agios Efstathios is well worth visiting.

86 Go right and drive between tall rows of eucalyptus, cedar and pine trees shading lush citrus groves and vineyards. This area was reclaimed from marshland in the 1930s. Birdwatchers can make a side trip to the

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Phasouri (Fasouri) reed-beds by going right onto a tarmac road after about four kilometres and going right again into a dead-end road. The main route goes straight to Akrotiri village.

The Akrotiri Environmental Education and Information Centre informs visitors of the unusual nature and ecological importance of the Akrotiri peninsula. The centre, which Kolossi Castle is very child-friendly with interactive displays and computer programmes in English,

87 is open seven-days a week and entrance then go left at the sign for Kourion is free. Museum. Take the left fork and the museum is up this road on your left. The Akrotiri Salt Lake is a unique corner It is housed in an attractive two-storey of Cyprus. It has over 20 types of habitat building and contains findings from Kourion and around 70 per cent of the island’s bird and surrounding sites. species, migratory and resident, are found there. Also, the endangered Green turtle The name of Episkopi village means ‘home and Loggerhead turtle nest on its beaches. of the Bishop’ and comes from the fact that It is a Ramsar listed site. The earliest traces when the nearby site of Kourion was of Man, dating back over 10,000 years, abandoned in the 7th century, the Bishop were discovered on the Akrotiri cliffs, moved his Seat here. Today’s village along with fossils of pygmy hippopotami has rural accommodation and several and dwarf elephants. restaurants. To leave, go left at the museum and follow the signs for Kourion, going right at the main road. Go left at the sign at the sign for “St Ermogenis” and you will come to a good bathing beach beneath vertical limestone cliffs. There are several restaurants here and the area is a good birdwatching location. To continue, go left to the Kourion Go back the way you came and, after Archaeological Site. Kolossi castle, go left onto the B6 and Leave Kourion and go to the Stadium, head for Erimi, which was a settlement which is on your right. This was built in the Chalcolithic era, between the Stone during the Roman period in the 2nd and Bronze ages. On the left as you leave century AD. The horseshoe shaped arena the village is the Cyprus Wine Museum, is surrounded by three tiers of seats to where you can learn about Cyprus wine accommodate 6,000 spectators. and taste a glass too. This is an enjoyable walking area with Continue on the main road to Episkopi cistus and aromatics growing among and go right at the sign for the Police low pines. Station. Go left opposite the mosque Back at the main road, go right to the (signpost Kourion Museum) and drive Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates. through the old part of the village, Toppled columns and stone fragments

88 mark the sanctuary as a 7th century BC village on the road to Pachna. shrine to the sun-god Apollo in his role as Leave by the road on which you came ‘Hylates’ or god of the woods. Most of the and take the right turn to Agios ruins are early Roman. On leaving, birders Thomas, which is probably of Byzantine can take a side trip by taking the track origin. Go right to Platanisteia opposite the road to the Sanctuary. (Plataniskia), a hamlet engaged in carob, olive and vine cultivation. The village is also Back on the main road, drive through home to an art school, run by a very well the residential British base at Episkopi known local artist and engraver. Head for and go right onto the F606 to , where you will see vineyards of . Go left onto the F607 in the table and sultana grapes. Go left after the village and follow the signs to Anogyra. tunnel of trees and go right onto the On the way, you pass the semi-restored main B6. After 100 metres, go left to monastery of the Holy Cross and a winery Pissouri. Drive through the narrow streets of this hilltop village, following the signs to the beach. The fertile lime soil around Pissouri yields abundant crops of sweet table grapes. The rugged cliffs of Cape Aspro, the highest point along the coast between Kourion and Pafos, overlook Pissouri Beach, where stone buildings, now restaurants, were carob stores when this at the village entrance. Anogyra has good was a thriving port. Go right at the mini examples of the limestone dwellings typical roundabout and drive up the valley. of this region, some of which have been Just over halfway up, look for a converted into rural accommodation. Cool concrete road to the right, which has a water used to come to the village through brown road sign with its back to you. a stone-built channel. The village is This takes you to an old water cistern and renowned for producing carob syrup and well, both of which are restored. You can carob toffee known as pastelaki. walk into the cistern – but beware of low There is a small pastelaki museum, flying swallows! Go right at the end and a pastelaki festival takes place each of the road and left onto the B6, August. (See Section 1, Chapter 5, Food signposted to Pafos, and drive to Petra & Wine). Before leaving, take a side trip tou Romiou. to ‘Oleastro’, an ecological olive press and At Petra tou Romiou, the three huge museum about three kilometres after the limestone rocks are known collectively

89 as Aphrodite’s Rock. Mythology says it was Mycenaean Greeks. It was an here that Aphrodite, goddess of love and fertility, emerged from the sea foam. The important and prosperous location is one of the most beautiful on the centre under the Ptolemies island and images of this spot, with its clear blue water and pebble beach, have become and the Romans, when the synonymous with Cyprus. The name Petra city numbered around 20,000 tou Romiou commemorates the Byzantine Greek hero Digenis Akritas, also known inhabitants. The nearby as Romios. Legend says that when marauding Saracen corsairs attacked the stadium was built during the Pafos coast, Romios, a mythical giant, Roman period. Here, 6,000 rested his hand on the Kyrenia mountain range and hurled huge boulders into the spectators would watch sea at Pafos to destroy the ships. The place pentathlons consisting where he rested his hand on the Kyrenia range is called Pentadactylos (five fingers), of running, the long jump, and the rocks he threw are Petra tou wrestling, discus and javelin Romiou. throwing. The Sanctuary To join the motorway, travellers from Pafos should go west and all other of Apollo Ylatis was a centre travellers should go east. of worship until Christianity Kourion has existed as a focal supplanted the cult. By the point of cultural, political and 5th century AD, Kourion was religious life for several the seat of a Christian bishop. millennia. A settlement was Its defensive position atop a built here in Neolithic times, coastal cliff and the power it probably because of its wielded over the surrounding strategic position and the area were its greatest assets. city-kingdom was founded Earthquakes and raids finally in the 12th century BC by destroyed Kourion and it was

90 not rediscovered until 1876. Kolossi castle open 09:00-17:00 Nov-Mar; 09:00-18:00 Apr, May, Sept, Oct; Many of the finds from the 09:00-19:30 June-Aug. various archaeological digs are Akrotiri Info centre open daily 08:30-15:00 Cyprus Wine museum open Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00 at the Kourion Museum in Kourion Museum open Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30 + Episkopi village and the Thurs 15:00-17:00 except July & Aug Kourion Archaeological site open 08:00-17:00 Lemesos (Limassol) District Nov-Mar; 08:00-18:00 Apr, May, Sept, Oct; 18:00-19:30 June - Aug. Archaeological Museum, both Sanctuary of Apollo as Kourion site. of which are well worth a visit. Kourion is open daily.

Akrotiri Salt Lake

91 Route 8 The Wine Villages Distance: approximately 120 kilometres

ñ Through the major wine producing region to the foothills of the Troodos ñ Vine-covered hillsides with small regional wineries ñ Interesting old churches and monasteries ñ Lovely villages with traditional architecture ñ Accommodation Leave the Lemesos (Limassol) - Pafos motorway at the exit for Avdimou, go onto the F606 and head for Pachna. On the way, the slopes are covered with carobs (ceratonia siliqua) the characteristic trees of the eastern Mediterranean that shade flocks grazing the sparse vegetation of summer.

Pachna, a large village of two-storey houses of rectangular limestone blocks, sits picturesquely amid vineyards. In addition to its winery, the village has a couple of tavernas and cafés. Back on the F606; go left at the sign for Agios Amvrosios and as you drive down the hill, there is a panoramic view of terraced vineyards covering the south-west flank of Troodos and Mount Olympus towering above.

92 Go left onto the E601, signposted to Omodos, and then take E612 to Malia. This is a village with a long history of wine-production, whose old winery was re-opened in 1996. Many of the well-preserved

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stone houses have stills for making zivania, a local spirit distilled from grape must (See Section 1, Chapter 5, Food & wine). Leave the village and continue on the E612 to Arsos.

Arsos is scenically perched on a steep chalky hillside and some of its fine traditional houses are now holiday accommodation. A walk through the narrow lanes will take you to an olive press, mineral water springs and a folk art

93 museum, while the wineries are on the Wander through quaint streets among outskirts. whitewashed houses to the mediaeval linos (wine press), which is still in working Go back the way you came and just order, or visit a rural life museum in one of before Mallia, go straight ahead at the the traditional houses, or you can even signpost ‘Vasa, Omodos old road’. watch village women making intricate cob- webby papilla lace, fine exhibits of which can be seen at the Centre for the Conservation of Pipilla lace within the monastery. Around the square are cafés and small shops selling wine, honey and the speciality arketena bread, baked with chickpea leaven instead of yeast. Away from the square are several good restaurants. Along here, the dry stone walls that retain the hillside terracing are home to the large endemic Agama lizard (agama stelio cypriaca), which you may be lucky enough to see basking in the sun. Vasa was, and still is, a major wine producing village and many of the red-roofed white houses have pitharia (large wine jars) and zivania stills in their yards. The compact village has a spring To leave, go right and follow the signs of pure mineral water, a Byzantine museum for Mandria and Platres. Along the and several good restaurants. You will pass narrow old road, are more wineries in a winery built in the traditional vineyards, after which the vines give way to architectural style of the village as you hawthorn, poplar and apple trees. Go right depart for Omodos. at the main road and head for Platres. Omodos is the capital of the Krasochoria Kato Platres is a small community in a (wine villages). The village centre is closed picturesque setting among fruit trees with to traffic, so go right into the large free car a village winery and several good tavernas park at the entrance. The village huddles on the main road. An altitude of 1,128 round Timios Stavrou Monastery, at the metres, surrounding forests and the Kryos end of the attractive cobbled square.

94 Potamos (Cold River) all help give Pano pressed, is still there. Laneia is one of the Platres its excellent climate. Commandaria villages, in which the sweet This is a popular holiday resort and a dessert wine is made. (See Section 1, regional centre with several good hotels, Chapter 5, Food & wine). It is also home a cottage hospital, petrol station, a tourist to several artists who welcome visitors to information office and shops. their studios. Leave by either of the two exits for the Go left at the main road and, after 100 B8 and Lemesos (Limassol) and go metres, go right at the signpost to right. Driving down the steep, twisty road, Doros. This village has traditional the Troodos Forest looms to your left. architecture with two-storey houses with Stay on the B8 at the major cross- arches and balconies overhanging the roads. is a good place to stop winding alleyways. Walk into the dead-end for coffee en-route - look out for the streets at the bottom of the village for a unusual double bridge that spans the river breathtaking view across the Kouris valley. nearby. After Trimiklini, you will be on the At the village exit, go right to Monagri eastern escarpment of the Kouris River, along a narrow lane that used to be part with a panorama of vine-clad terraces of the road from Lemesos to Platres. across the valley. At the village entrance, the centre with two small wineries and a very old olive press are ahead of you. Standing above the river valley to your right is the Archangelos Michail Monastery, now a contemporary art centre and nearby, down a road to the left is the Monastery of Panagia Amasgou, which houses some impressive 12th century frescoes. To leave, follow the signs for Lemesos and go right on the B8. Pass Laneia police station and go left Down the hill, take the F817 signed to at the signpost to Laneia. Set among and head for . vineyards and almond, walnut and fig trees, There is a good view of the Kouris Laneia is a well-preserved village of Reservoir and near the village is open narrow cobbled lanes of tile-roofed pastureland with dry-stone walls. Follow elongated houses with beautiful gardens the signs for Agios Therapon to the and courtyards, where pitharia wine jars exit of Lofou and go right to park. store the house wine. The old linos, This attractive Commandaria village spread a wooden contraption in which grapes are

95 96 atop a limestone hill (Lofos means hill bound Christ to the Cross. in Greek) has an abundance of water from the Kouris and Kryos rivers. The houses The place soon became a are of typical stone-and-timber architecture shrine and then an important and there are Vahkis scheme tavernas serving authentic Cypriot food, a small monastery, around which the Byzantine museum and an olive mill. village of Omodos grew. Continue through the vineyards to The monastery, which is now Agios Therapon, going right at the church and taking the right fork into disused, was built in the 12th the village. Here are twelve preserved century with wooden roofed vaulted houses (vota) with ground-floor monastic buildings standing arched rooms used as storerooms for pitharia wine jars or donkey stables. on three sides of the church. Drive across the valley to the junction The present 19th century with the E601 and into Agios Amvrosios. In this small village of tree- church contains an intricately shaded whitewashed houses, is a winery, carved iconostasis. The holy an old olive press and an agiasma (Holy well). Go back to the E601 and head relics are in cross-shaped for Erimi and the motorway. silver-gilt reliquaries in the Timios Stavros (Holy Cross) church and the skull of the Monastery at Omodos dates Apostle Philip is in a reliquary back to the 4th century. with the seals of four Folklore says that it was built Byzantine emperors to vouch over a cave that became a for its authenticity. small chapel for housing holy Do not miss the beautiful relics given by St Helena. reception hall (archontariki) They are believed to be a of the monastery with piece of the True Cross and it carved wooden ceiling. a portion of the rope that

97 Route 9 Troodos and the Solea Valley Distance: approximately 160 kilometres

ñ Unique, UNESCO World Heritage Site churches, with outstanding frescoed interiors ñ Charming mountain villages, with traditional architecture ñ Good hill walking and cycling ñ Pine forests and moufflon sanctuary ñ Accommodation Leave the Lemesos (Limassol) - Pafos motorway at the exit for and Kouris Dam and head for the dam. Mount Olympus is ahead as you drive through wild olives and Aleppo pines to the west of the reservoir, following signs for Alassa. Go left onto the B8 to Trimiklini, a village thriving on the production of almonds and fruit. At the major crossroads, go right onto the E801(B9).

Saittas is a settlement built around a government-run experimental fruit nursery. Its setting among tall pines on the left bank of the Kouris River attracts many visitors and there is rural accommodation at a small hotel. The houses in tiny Filagra are now mainly summer homes. You can take a detour off this road to Mesa Potamos, where there is a delightful monastery and waterfalls. Back on the main road, on your left 98 at Kato are some unusual old dwellings with overhanging balconies. Near the top of the steep gradient, mavrahero, wild lentils colour the hillsides mauve in spring. Stay on the B9 at the crossroads and follow the signs for Kakopetria. Karvounas is the N WE S

saddle between Troodos and the Madari range and the watershed between the Kouris and Kargotis rivers. The terrain now changes to immense pines (Pinus brutia). As you go down, a hundred metres after the turning to Platania picnic site, there is a moufflon reserve on the right.

99 Further down the road are several trout Folk Art Architectural site and you can farms, some with their own restaurants. see examples of pitharia wine jars and a Go left at the sign for Agios Nikolaos traditional bread oven in the yard. tis Stegis and continue to the church. Driving to , you continue through St Nicholas of the Roof, built and painted a metaphorical fruit salad. After apples, in the early 11th century, is one of the ten pears, plums and cherries, you now come mountain churches on the UNESCO to mespila, loquats, citrus and World Heritage List. A steeply pitched pomegranates among gardens awash outer roof protects the original dome from with colour. rain and snow. Go back and go left at the sign for Fresh herbs are an integral Kakopetria. Clinging to both banks of the part of Cypriot cuisine, Kargoris to your left as you enter, is the old village of stone and mudbrick houses and many herbs such as with pitched roofs, many of them restored. thyme and sage grow wild in Kakopetria is a holiday resort with banks, petrol stations, hotels and restaurants, the countryside. Because of including a Vahkis scheme tavern. It was a the island’s dry climate the silk producing centre and there are still many mulberry trees around. As you leave herbs contain a higher than on the road to Galata, there is a restored normal quantity of natural 18th century watermill to your left. oils, which makes them very Huge trees shade the square at Galata and nearby are fine examples of its distinctive pungent. terraced buildings with wooden balconies Follow the signs for Korakou, where figs and staircases. Some of them have been and prickly pears are added to the fruit restored and one is a Folk Art museum. bowl. Go left at the fork and round the Across the river is the UNESCO World church; then go right at the street sign Heritage listed church of Panagia tis ‘Eleftheria Avenue’. Follow this road Poditou, an early 16th century building with until you come to an old watermill its outer roof extending almost to the and ruined bridge opposite the ground to cover the portico. signpost for , then go left The Solea villages run into each other and after first building, a modern olive mill, next up is with its preserved hani, onto a cobbled road, which was part of the inn, with arches, mudbrick walls and old camel road from Lefkosia (Nicosia) to sloping roof. The 18th century building is a Troodos. It ends at a railway station - the

100 terminus of the old Cyprus Government a village of almond trees and traditional Railway, completed in 1915 and which houses, and follow the road signposted went from Ammochostos (Famagusta), via Lefkosia (Nicosia) to Evrychou. Go back to the main road, go left and left again at the t-junction.

Evrychou is a large village where cotton used to grow. Today it is a regional centre and the seat of the Bishopric of Morfou, Fork right at the church, drive up to the B9 and go left at the signpost for Lefkosia.

As you drive north, the pines give way to olives and cereals and you can see Morfou Bay on your left. Go right onto the road to Koutrafas to Spilia. The beautiful Atsas River valley and follow the signs for Asinou Church. winds up through well-irrigated terraces , with its stone and of almonds, olives and vines. At Kourdali, mudbrick houses, is on the edge of the stands the mediaeval church of the Panagia. Mesaoria, central plain and the cornfields The belfry of the village church dominates are parched and barren in summer. the skyline at Spilia, a village popular with At one time, you had to hire a donkey hikers and which has rural accommodation. at to take you to Asinou, Leave on the F929 signposted to but now it is just a short drive. Kannaviou and go right at the top, Panagia Asinou, one of the most well heading for . On the way known of the UNESCO listed churches, down are wide views of terraced vines and sits in a tiny isolated meadow among dense the Madari hills. Go left onto the E909 forests. It was built and painted in 1105 and and go right at the sign for contains fascinating frescos. Go back and Kyperounta. Then take the left fork go left at the small green sign to Agios and on your right is the Rural Life and Theodoros. This all-weather forest road Natural History Museum in a restored is bumpy at the start but smoothes out at building. The village also has a winery and the top of the hill, from where there is a a hospital. panoramic view of Morfou Bay, the central As you drive to the apple growing village of plain and the Pentadactylos (Kyrenia) , there is a deep wooded valley to Mountains. Go left at Agios Theodoros,

101 your left. In Potamissa, many people grow Continuing, on the hillside to your left their vines on frames across the road as are the ruins of old Korfi, which was there is no room on the steep hillsides. abandoned after landslides, and after new Take the F806 to Pelendri and go into Korfi, there is a vista of the Kouris Dam, the village to the UNESCO World Lemesos (Limassol) and the Akrotiri Salt Lake. Go right into Apesia, and behind the church and restored olive press is a small area where time seems to have stood still. Old houses and villagers inhabiting them just as their forefathers did. Go back to the main road and go left for Lemesos (Limassol) and the motorway.

Asinou Church: open 09:30-17:00 May - Aug, 09:30-16:00 Sept - Apr. Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis: Tue-Sat: 09:00-16:00 Sun: 11:00-16:00.

Heritage listed 13th century church of Timios Stavros. Also, do not miss the Panagia Catholiki church with its Byzantine/Italian frescoes. As you head for Trimiklini, you will pass a winery on your right. Go left onto the B8 and go left again onto the F812, signposted to Agios Mamas. Drive through the centre of this village of whitewashed stone houses, then go right and head for Kapileio. This village, which is known for early peaches, stands on a hillock and has extensive views all around.

102 103 Route 10 Troodos and the Marathasa Valley Distance: approximately 160kms

ñ Vineyards, wineries and pine forests ñ Fascinating geology ñ Fertile valley famous for its cherry and fruit orchards ñ Delightful mountain villages and interesting museums ñ Unique, UNESCO World Heritage Site churches, with outstanding frescoed interiors ñ Good hill walking and cycling on specially prepared routes ñ Accommodation Leave the Lemesos (Limassol) - Pafos motorway, Lemesos (Limassol) bypass at the exit for Polemidia and Troodos and go onto the B8, signposted to Troodos.

As other routes cover the villages on the way to Troodos, this route looks at the landscape and astonishing geology of a journey from sea level to 1,951 metres, but which also takes you to what was once the bottom of a very deep ocean around ninety million years ago. As you start to climb, the coastal lowland gravel and sand give way to plateaux of cream-coloured limestone and chalk on which grapevines flourish. After passing the Kouris dam to your left

104 at Alassa, go left onto the F815 signposted to Monagri and drive down the valley. The Kouris River begins its 56 kilometre journey to the sea from 1,800 metres high up in the Troodos. Long before global warming and the dams at Trimiklini and Alassa diminished it,

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it carved a deep valley of limestone cliffs and river terraces on which orchards and almonds now thrive in rich alluvial soil. Cross the bridge and go through Silikou. Stop at Kouka to visit the small cruciform church from where there is a superb view of the Troodos massif towering majestically above you. After going right onto the E802, signposted to Saittas, the white chalks give 105 way to outcrops of brown bulging pillow and shows films of the unique natural lavas, bubbles of once-molten rock frozen environment of Troodos. There is also in the icy sea, indicating the beginning a 300-metre botanical and geological path, of the Troodos ophiolite, which is a chunk as well as a cafeteria and toilets. of ocean crust. Go left and through Troodos Square, Rejoin the B8 at the crossroads and go left to Moniatis and Platres. As you climb alongside dense deciduous woods, the rocks change to steep slabs of hard grey diabase. It was from river pebbles of this rock that Neolithic man shaped axe heads.

from where you can take a side trip to the summit of Mount Olympus (Chionistra) by going left at the roundabout, signposted to Prodromos, and taking the left fork along this road. The view from beside the white-domed military installations is stupendous. On the main route, go onto the B9, signposted ‘Amiantos’ at the roundabout. You are now on part of the earth’s mantle that was six kilometres below the solid surface when dinosaurs Stay on the B8 and drive to Troodos walked the earth. The mantle is the middle through a stark landscape of umbrella pines of the earth’s three layers, sandwiched and dark coarse-grained gabbro rock between the thin hard crust and the formations. Go left to the Troodos semi-liquid core. Perhaps this knowledge National Park Visitor Centre and as you will help you see the defunct asbestos mine step out of the car, you will be standing in a different light! on rocks that come from below the floor One last point before we come back to of the primordial Tethys Ocean, the here and now: The Troodos Mountains the predecessor of the Mediterranean. are still growing - so if you do this journey The Visitor Centre houses a first-rate next year, you will have to drive one collection of local ecological specimens millimetre further!

106 Continue on the B9 at the major Pedoulas is a summer resort and centre junction. A hundred metres after the of the Marathasa with banks, hotels, turning to Platania picnic site, restaurants and a petrol station. there is a moufflon reserve on the right. It is famous for cherries and you will see the trees lining the roadside. Drive right down the Solea valley Houses blanketed with climbing vines stand on the B9, go left onto the E908, on narrow terraces. Here is another of the signposted to Prodromos and pass the UNESCO churches, the 15th century Agios olive-producing villages of , and Mihail, opposite which is a Byzantine and the slag heaps of the Museum. Nearby is also a charming folk art copper mines. Katydata is a museum. delightful village with a very interesting mining museum. Cyprus has a rich Byzantine Orchards and olive groves fill the floor of heritage and fine examples the narrow steep-sided lower Marathasa Valley. Several large restaurants shelter of religious wall paintings and under huge plane trees before you get to iconography can be seen Kalopanagiotis Dam, in which trout, bass and other freshwater fish are raised. in many of the old churches Two-storey balconied houses, and monasteries including the some of which offer overnight accommodation, line the steeply winding 10 churches in the Troodos streets of Kalopanagiotis. The sulphur designated as World Heritage springs are in the valley, near Agios Ioannis Lambadistis Monastery, one of the ten sites by UNESCO. painted churches on UNESCO’s World There are extensive views from all around Heritage List. Don’t miss the monastery’s Prodromos, the highest village in Cyprus impressive Byzantine museum, at 1,400 metres. Prodromos has abundant which is open to the public every day natural vegetation, fruit orchards, cool except Mondays. water and healthy climate. It is also home The houses clinging to the hillsides to the Cyprus Forestry College. at have steep-pitched roofs Go left at Prodromos roundabout, to cast off snow. This village is famous signposted ‘Platres’ and go right after for its spring water and for growing the 100 metres onto the E804, signposted tastiest pears. The church of the Panagia, to Lemithou (where you can find rural built in 1280, is also one of the UNESCO accommodation). Stay on this road through churches. Palaiomylos, a village of meandering

107 108 streets and well-preserved traditional restaurant serving authentic Cypriot food. mountain-style houses, and drive to Foini To leave, head for Agios Amvrosios and (Fini), a village famous for pottery made on your right, is the Donkey Sanctuary of the red clay from the surrounding hills. housing around 140 elderly and abandoned Alas, the huge onion-shaped pithara wine animals. As you leave, look back at this jars are no longer made but examples can pretty village before going left on the E601 be seen in the Pilavakion Pottery Museum to Erimi and the motorway. in the village centre. Troodos National Park Visitors Centre Back on the E804, go to Kato Platres Open daily 10:00-15:00 Jun-Aug and go right onto the E802, and head Mon-Fri 10:00-15:00 Sept-May for Mandria and Pera Pedi. Mandria’s claim Closed on Public Holidays. to fame is that the first inter-town All monuments in Marathassa valley are telephone service linked the village to open daily, except on Mondays. Lemesos (Limassol) in 1881. The main road at Pera Pedi skirts the village centre and goes beneath the shade of plane, alder, apple and pear trees. On your left behind the trees, you can just see the old winery, built in 1881 and still in use. Go right onto the E803, signposted to Koilani, and drive through orchards and, nestling beneath a huge plane tree, is Agia Mavri church with its 12th century frescoes. Opposite is Afames Mountain, which has given its name to the wines from this area. Go right into the village centre to find interesting traditional architecture, a couple of wineries and rural accommodation. Do not miss the Monogenis church with its small ecclesiastical museum. Back on the E803, go right to Vouni. In the narrow winding streets of this vine-growing settlement are some impressively restored arched houses with courtyards. There is also a Vakhis scheme

109 Route 11 The Pitsilia and the South-West Mesaoria

Distance: approximately 110 kilometres

ñ Drive through the diverse landscape of the central plain to pine clad mountains and rich fertile valleys ñ Unique UNESCO World Heritage Site churches with outstanding frescoed interiors ñ Tranquil monasteries ñ Traditional architecture ñ Excellent walking and hiking ñ Impressive scenery There are no petrol stations on this route after the B9, so fill up before you go. Leave Lefkosia (Nicosia) on the A9 (B9) Troodos motorway, go right at the roundabout at the end and drive to .

Peristerona straddles a dry riverbed on the south-west edge of the Mesaoria, the plain separating the Kyrenia and Troodos mountain ranges. The area is renowned for its watermelons and in spring, a profusion of wild flowers including the rare crimson Myrtou tulip, carpet the fields. The church of Saints Barnabas and Hilarion is one of only two five-domed basilicas in Cyprus, and both of these are very rare in the world - the other is at Geroskipou, near Pafos - and a stone screen found during excavations 110 suggests that it was built over an earlier Christian site. The slender belfry stands in perfect juxtaposition with the minaret of one island’s most beautiful mosques – a very good example of the peaceful co-existence of the

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Christian and Muslim communities of the island. A walk round the village will reveal many fine examples of mudbrick and stone buildings. Go back the way you came on the B9 to the traffic lights and go right onto the E906. At , follow the signs to Agios Nikolaos Monastery and drive down to the riverbed through the narrow village streets. The remains of an olive press and well near the renovated monastery - now a nunnery -

111 suggest it was once a much larger building. between 1980 and 1982. Carry on up the The nuns at the monastery are very E907 and, as you climb, on your right devoted and welcoming and have created is the beautiful Adelphi Forest, culminating a delightfully serene atmosphere. at the 1612 metre Adelphi Peak. This is a true hiker’s country. Back on the E906, go right. As you drive up the mountain through an area of arable The houses at Lagoudera cling to the and livestock farming, and olive groves, mountainside and their grape vines is to your left. This was once overhang the narrow village street. a Grand Commanderie village belonging At the village exit, go right at the sign to the Knights Templar. for . Go right onto the E907, signposted to Agia Marina. As you pass the village, you will see some fine examples of traditional houses, built with small boulders and mudbrick, with steeply pitched roofs and wooden balconies. There is a magnificent panorama of the forested Madari ridge ahead as you approach . This village, which was probably a pre-Mediaeval settlement, it has some well-preserved traditional The 12th century church of Panagia tou houses. Years ago, shepherds from the Araka (Our Lady of the Wild Vetch) Madari used to bring their flocks here is one of the ten churches on UNESCO’s for winter grazing. World Heritage List and it contains some Take the right turn onto a gravel road of the finest examples of late 12th century at the wooden sign for Xyliatos picnic Byzantine art in Cyprus. site. Straddling the Elia River, there are Saranti is a tiny village of huge chestnut tables, fresh drinking water, barbecue pits trees and a few traditional houses built and toilets in an idyllic setting deep among in the Pitsilia mountain style. trees and surrounded by mineral-rich rocky hillsides. Back at the main road, follow the signs for Troodos, and at the t-junction Back on the main road continue go left onto the F915, signposted up the hill to Xyliatos Dam, a small but to . You are now travelling delightful reservoir, with fragrant pine trees through the Madari wine- producing region, almost reaching the banks. The dam built

112 where grapevines flourish up to an altitude in its narrow and winding streets. of 1600 metres. According to a board found in the roof, the church of Agios Ioannis Prodromos Polystypos has traditional vine-covered (John the Baptist) dates from 1560. houses, gardens of hydrangeas and walnut It was extended in 1763 and has trees. The church of Agios Andreas may Byzantine-style frescoes. have originally been a monastery. In the village centre, go onto the E931 signposted to Alona.

In addition to grapes, Alona is renowned for its hazelnuts. As you drive down through the village, you will see several renovated traditional houses. The churches of Panagia Kardakiotissa and Agios Georgios are worth visiting. Leave the village and go back onto the F915, signposted to Fterykoudi. Stop at the viewpoint for a breathtaking view of the Madari ridge and the forests below. Go left into the village at the brown signposts to two churches (the signs are in Greek). Drive back towards Alona and go right onto the E906, signposted to Fterykoudi huddles on a rugged Platanistasa. mountainside. A centuries old oak tree On the way down the stands in the village square. The original mountain, you can see across to Adelphi foundations of the 16th century church Forest and the tree-filled valley below. Platanistasa are preserved beneath the present church. is an attractive village with Drive back to the F915 and go left, a vast grape vine shading the paved village signposted to Palaichori. square. This is a lovely place to sit a while and sip a coffee among pots of vivid On the way to , you can take flowers. The thrifty but imaginative villagers a short side trip to the Church of Agia use an eclectic selection of plant holders, Paraskevi, also known as Agia Christina, including buckets and even the steel drum by taking the asphalt road to your left. of a washing machine! Pitharia, huge wine The beautiful village of Askas has some jars in which the house wine is made, of the most interesting traditional can be seen in several yards. architecture to be found in Cyprus

113 If you intend to visit Stavros tou Drive to and follow the signs Agiasmati Church further down the to the Monastery of Agios mountain, remember to pick up the key Panteleimon. The monastery is perched in the village before you leave (don’t forget on a hill overlooking the dry, dramatic to return it afterwards). To get there, terrain of the western Mesaoria all the way continue down the mountain and go to the Pentadaktylos mountains. left at the signpost to Stavros tou After the bleak terrain, the oasis-like Agiasmati. This small church, one of the nunnery garden, is a revelation. It contains ten UNESCO World Heritage churches, large yucca trees, tree-size cacti and the stands isolated above a remote valley. most varied collection of geraniums Built in the second half of the 15th century, to be seen anywhere. it is decorated with the island’s most Drive back to the F905, go left and join complete cycle of frescoes. the E903 back to Nicosia. Go back to the E906 and as you drive descend, you will pass Panagia Bridge, with its picnic site and forest station. Shortly after, go left onto the E905 signposted to . The slagheaps and craters are evidence of Mitsero’s long history as a mining settlement.

114 115 Route 12 The Pafos Valleys Distance: approximately 120 kilometres

ñ Broad, virtually uninhabited river valleys ñ Excellent angling, birdwatching, walking and cycling ñ Outstanding scenery dotted with a few traditional villages ñ Mediaeval bridges and water mills ñ Remote monasteries and churches ñ Great photo opportunities Travellers from Pafos: leave the motorway at the exit for Timi and . All other travellers leave the motorway at the exit for Pafos Airport. Go left on the B6, signpost ‘Mandria’ and, just before a bridge, go left to Asprokremnos Dam, a good angling location and a favourite with birdwatchers and walkers. Drive across the dam wall, from which there are spectacular views, go left at the end of the road and drive to , a village scenically located on the banks of the Diarizos River. There is rural accommodation at the restored village inn. In the mid-1950s, an earthquake devastated many villages in the Diarizos and Xeros valleys and you will see the remains of temporary prefabricated bungalows that once housed the homeless. Today’s route is where you will see old village buses and ancient tractors worthy of a place in a museum.

116 As you go along the valley floor, the ruins of are across the river to your right, with sheep and goats inhabiting the tumbledown stone houses. Southeast of the village, archaeologists have unearthed Chalcolithic rock-cut tombs and copper artefacts.

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In the riverbed near Fasoula is the surface channel that carries water to the southern region. is best known as the birth- place of the infamous Hassan Poulis. Hassan and his two brothers terrorised the area in the 1890s in what were supposedly ‘Robin Hood’ style raids. This and the next village, Agios Georgios, cultivate oranges in the wide river valley. Across the river at Prastio are the remains of the 12th century monastery of Agios Savvas tis Korones.

117 As you continue, the valley gets narrower Note the remains of the rickety old bridge until the road goes through a cleft, known to your left. Head for and take as the kourtellorotsos, between large black the left fork after the coffee shops, rocks into a wooded area. This is where then go right onto the F618 and follow the Hassan Poulia gang ambushed unwary the signs to Agios Ioannis. travellers making the long journey from These country lanes are bordered by Pafos to Troodos. is the last village almond and olive trees and this is a good before the river crossing, where there is an place to look out for prehistoric looking old water mill and large shady oak trees Agama lizards (agama stelio cypriaca), which beside a spring. As you climb, the views can grow up to 30cm in length, sunning become increasingly beautiful and the themselves on the walls. restored Agios Antonios church is a good place to stop and look across the valley. There are no petrol Kederes is a vine-growing village known for the production of zivania (See Section stations on this route, 1, Chapter 5, Food & wine) and there so fill up your tank before you is a winery shortly after Praitori. At Agios Nikolaos, go left at the brown go. If you feel hungry, fresh signpost and follow the signs to Kelafos bread, cheese, and olives are Bridge. On the way, there are wonderful views of the Pafos Forest and of Arminou usually available at the village dam in the valley below. coffee shops (Kafenion). Kelefos Bridge is one of three Numbers of the magnificent Griffon vulture pack-bridges originally built by the (Gyps fulvus) have declined to dangerous Venetians for transporting goods across levels, so the Cyprus Game Service has set the mountains. It is romantically sited up a feeding area on the cliffs at Agios under the shade of trees and is an ideal Ioannis. It is not possible to visit the site place to stop for a picnic lunch. Elea but you may be lucky enough to see a Bridge is in a wooded dell nearby and vulture riding the thermals near the village. Roudia Bridge straddles the upper reaches of the Xeros River at the bottom Leave Agios Ioannis by the road on of the valley between and Agios which you came and go right onto the Ioannis. Return to Agios Nikolaos, go F618 at the signpost for and right onto the F616, then go right onto go right again at the signpost for the F617 at the signpost for Filousa. Kelokedera. Go through Kelokedera Go left at the coffee shop; drive down and and go right at the the valley and cross the Diarizos River. signpost to Agios Pandeleimmonos.

118 After you pass the ruins of Choletra, added later. It was restored in the 1990s abandoned about forty years ago because and one of the outbuildings contains an of landslides, go through the ford and exhibition of the restoration project. head for Nata, a village of traditional The project received the prestigious two-storey houses, many with large Europa Nostra Award. On either side of pitharia wine jars in their courtyards. the river nearby are the remains of two After Nata, go right at the signpost water mills. to and at the main road go To leave, drive down to the riverbed right onto the F622, and drive through and go straight ahead on the track Axylou and . After , among the boulders. The track meanders go right onto the F623 at the signpost but is easily discernable. Go right after to Agia Maria Kelokedaron. This road fording the river and keep the orange takes you down through the beautiful groves on your left. There are hillsides Zirupillis forest. There is room by a studded with olive trees on either side and roadside shrine shortly after a church further on are limestone cliffs where you to stop and take in the view. After climbing might spot a Bonelli’s eagle, if you are very out of the valley, you enter the village lucky. along a road bordered by almond trees. Agia Marina is one of seven villages in the When you reach the tarmac road, go Kilithes Project for the Sustainable right heading for Nata (you drove along Development and Management of the River the last part of this road before) and go left Valleys of Eastern Pafos. The other villages at the fork before the village, following the are Amargeti, Episkopi, Eledio, , signs for Anarita. Just before the Anarita, Nata and Salamiou. An information centre birdwatchers can take a left turn to is in the Postal Agency building on your Phinikas (Foinikas), a deserted village on right as you leave the village. Drive to the bank of the Asprokremnos. Drive and, as you near the village you through Anarita, a village engaged get a magnificent view of the summit of in livestock farming. A little further on at Mount Olympus, with its ‘golf ball’ radar Timi you will see the Church of Agia Sofia, stations. At the t-junction in Pentalia, now a mosque. Just after Timi you will follow the signs to Panagia tou Sinti come to the main road. Go right for down the road to your right and you will the motorway to Pafos and left for all have magnificent views of the church as the other destinations. track descends. The church of Panagia tou Sinti, on the west bank of the Xeros River, was built around 1500 and had monastic buildings

119 Route 13 Pafos and the Akamas Distance: approximately 145 kilometres ñ Wild coastal scenery with wind-carved rocks and sea caves ñ Abundant flora and fauna ñ Stunning scenery ñ Pretty hill villages, some specialising in handicrafts ñ Excellent walking and cycling, with specially designed nature trails for all levels of ability ñ Accommodation If you are staying in Pafos, take the road to Coral Bay and turn right at the sign for Lempa. If you are coming from the Lemesos (Limassol) direction, follow the signs for Polis at the end of the motorway at Pafos and go right onto the B7 at the t-junction. Go immediately left, signposted to Empa, then right at the next t-junction and left again into Empa village where there the 12th church, Panagia Chryseleousa, has beautiful frescoes. Go straight ahead at the crossroads and right at the t-junction, then left at the signpost to Lempa. Go right at the next t-junction and immediately left. Take the first right into the village and the ‘Lempa Artistic Wall’ of the Cyprus Art College is on your right. Follow the signs for the Prehistoric Site but watch for the turn to the Lempa Experimental Village, as the sign is obscure.

120 To continue, go right and right again at the fork, then left and you will be between banana groves and peach orchards. Go right onto the E701 and left onto the E708 to Coral Bay, then left at the sign to Maa Palaiokastro, to a Bronze Age settlement and museum.

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Back at the main road, go left and drive through banana, olive, citrus and almond groves. A side trip to the Sea Caves is via a track to your left where the road doubles back. On the main route, go right at the t-junction, left at the next one and drive to Agios Georgios Pegia, the site of an early Byzantine settlement. A tiny Byzantine church, fishermen’s cottages and tavernas overlook the fishing harbour and Geronisos island.

121 Go back and go left at the signpost to who set up mandras (sheepfolds) on the the Akamas Peninsula. This wild and coast for winter grazing. There are rugged area is practically uninhabited and sweeping views of the coastline below and is a nature lover’s paradise of thick forests, of the geologically diverse hills around you. abundant flora and fauna, a beautiful As you near the Laona Plateau, you come coastline and a patchwork of geological to terraced vineyards with dry-stone walls. formations. After a short distance, the road Go left at Ineia and left again then becomes a dirt track but it is easily follow the sign for Pittokopas. passable with a little care. You will see Bay to the right just before you go through Pittokopas, Over millennia, winter floods a village of only half a dozen stone houses, and snow melts have created and take the right fork to Androlikou. This mostly ruined village is home to vast some impressive gorges. These herds of goats. The brilliant white reef make excellent places to hike limestone of this area is quarried for the building industry. and explore. The most Go left onto the E709 signposted to popular are Avakas, Polis and go left again onto the E713 Androlikou and Petratis. at the t-junction. Latchi (Lakki), is the fishing and pleasure boat port of Polis. When you reach the sign for Avakas From here you can take boat trips along Gorge, a narrow defile between towering the Akamas coast. In this area there is cliffs, take a side trip to walk and explore plenty accommodation as well as tavernas this stunning location, and don’t forget to serving fresh fish and local food. take your camera. Continue on along the After turning inland, go right to the area main road and you will soon see Jurassic known as the Baths of Aphrodite. rocks carved into fantastic shapes by wind According to legend, this is the place and water. Go right onto a concrete where the goddess of love and beauty met road at the signpost to Ineia. You can her lover Adonis, and bathed in the cool take a side trip to the Turtle Hatchery water of a grotto, fed by a trickling stream and Lara Beach by going straight ahead and shaded by wild figs. There is a good and can continue to Neo Chorio but the beach beneath the nearby tourist pavilion road is best suited to 4wd vehicles. and several delightful nature trails traverse As you climb, on your left is a perfectly the surrounding hillsides, offering stunning preserved stiadi (makeshift house), views of countryside and the crystal blue built by shepherds from the plateau, waters of the bay. During spring the entire area is carpeted with wildflowers.

122 Go back and go right on the F735 rocks in the sea. The next village is Kato to Neo Chorio, which used to be a Arodes, sitting at the head of the Avakas donkey-breeding village. Go left of the River and gorge. It is in these Laona villages church, then straight ahead and fork that you are most likely to find older men right onto a dirt road signposted ‘Smigies’. still wearing the traditional vraka, baggy Agios Minas, a 16th century church atop breeches. 12th century foundations near a small The varied rock formations have created stream is a good place to spot indigenous spectacular gorges, karsts and undulating Agama lizards. A little further on you come chalky hills around , a village to Smigies picnic site, which has toilets, surrounded by vineyards and which is tables and fresh water. In this area are known for its white grapes and an old linos several nature trails and it is a good (wine press) that has been preserved birdwatching area too. among the vineyards. The houses are The remote Akamas area is typical, narrow, two-storey stone buildings. Go left onto E709, signposted to particularly beautiful during Prodromi and go right at the sign to springtime when the wild Kritou Tera, where there is a huge plane tree by the bridge as you enter. Saddlers flowers are in bloom. This and chair makers were prevalent here and region is particularly famous the women made sweet pasteli, carob toffee. At the end of the 19th and the for its wild cyclamen, irises, beginning of the 20th century, the village anemones, tulips and narcissi. was famous in the region because one of its coffee shops was a ‘casino’ where Go back through Neo Chorio and gambling took place and exotic dancers Latchi and go right onto the E709, from abroad, mainly Smyrna and Adana, signposted to , and head for entertained the punters. Kritou Tera is Drousia. This popular rural holiday spot home to an Environmental Studies Centre. has renovated arched village houses, Drive through the village, go right at a modern hotel, a weaving museum and the coffee shop with a spiral staircase, wonderful views across Chrysochou Bay. and follow the signs for Agia Ekaterini. Go on the F708, signposted to Pafos, As you drive down the valley between to Ineia, where one of the old limestone apricot orchards, there are wide views houses is a basket-making museum. across to the Pafos Forest. Agia Ekaterini Looking across the vineyards to the coast Church, with its interesting architecture, you can see the Karavopetres, tall isolated was founded in the 15th century by monks

123 from Mount Sinai, who still own it. As you On your left among the vineyards, you will drive down the hill, there is a deep see a set of steps going nowhere. During tree-filled gully to your right. the grape harvest, grape-pickers would climb them to tip grapes into sirizes, Go right onto the main B7 road and donkey panniers. right onto the F734 at the signpost to Kato Akourdalia, a village of traditional As you drive down towards the coast, houses, some of which have been there is a spectacular view ahead, especially renovated as rural accommodation and at sunset, when the sea turns to a folk art museum. You can take a side trip shimmering gold. Go left onto the F706 by going right to Pano Akourdalia, at the bottom of the hill for Pafos and which also has rural accommodation the motorway. and a herbal garden. On the main route, take the road to , where most of the traditional houses have pretty flower gardens. Near the old monastery building of Agioi Anargyri are therapeutic sulphur springs. After going right onto the B7, is to your right. This is a fertile village of almonds, grapes, citrus fruit and cereals. This area is particularly beautiful in Lempa Prehistoric Site/Experimental February when the almond tress are Village The settlement belongs to the in blossom. Go right at the sign for Chalcolithic period, c.3,500BC. Nearby, , an old settlement tucked under archaeologists have constructed six a cliff. The village was abandoned several complete roundhouses using the same years ago because of landslides and the building methods as those in antiquity, wind whistles eerily around the arched in order to try to ascertain how such two-storey houses and meandering streets. a mammoth building task was achieved At the top of the hill, go to Kathikas. without the use of carts. The wheel had The main income of this village was from not been invented at that time and each grapes and winemaking but rural tourism building required around 100 tonnes is now a feature, with several traditional of earth, stone and timber. The ancient houses accommodating holidaymakers. builders mixed mud with chaff and put up The old village school is the Information wooden posts to support a roof of beams, Centre for the Laona Project and there myrtle and earth. They lime-plastered the is a winery on the outskirts as you follow floor and walls and completed the building the E709, signposted to Pafos. with wooden window frames and doors.

124 These constructions stand alongside the prosperity was principally due to its copper exposed foundations of their prehistoric deposits. One area focuses on the predecessors. Many finds from the site are settlement at Maa itself, with details at the Pafos District Archaeological of the life and activities of its inhabitants Museum. The Lemba site is open daily from and there is information about settlements dawn to dusk and you can wander freely. from the same era at Enkomi, Kition and The site is on the Aphrodite Cultural Alassa as well as on the influence exerted Route. by the Mycenaean Greeks. Finally, there is a section on the development of writing Maa-Palaiokastro is a 12th century BC and religious practices in Cyprus during the fortified settlement built by Mycenaean late Bronze Age. Entry is through the Greeks seeking refuge after the collapse of Maa-Palaiokastro site, the entry fee for their main centres of civilisation in the which covers the museum too. Peloponnesos in southern Greece, and Open Mon – Sat 10:00 – 16:00. who were attracted by Cyprus’ copper mines. Maa had a natural harbour and Cape Drepano and Pegeia Early potable water and the settlers fortified the Christian Basilicas: In this area there was site with massive stone walls. Excavations a Roman and early Byzantine settlement. have unearthed a large complex of rooms It was almost certain that it was destroyed joined by a common corridor and other by earthquake and its ruins are scattered finds indicate that internal and external beneath the scrubland of the area. trade existed. Although the site was However, its small harbour, which was defendable and was a good vantage point used during the early Byzantine period as a from which to spot an approach from land convenient harbour for trade between or sea, the Mycenaeans Greeks abandoned Egypt and Constantinople, is still in use it around 1150 BC and probably moved on today. There are rock-cut chambers on the to other parts of the island. cliff-side above the harbour, some of which bear Christian crosses of an archaic design. The Museum of the Mycenaean Greek The offshore small island of Geronisos has Colonisation of Cyprus at Maa is an what are thought to be the remains of a impressive semi-underground modern Roman garrison on its west side. structure, designed by the famous Italian The excavations of 6th century Pegeia architect, Andrea Bruno, and consisting Basilicas (which gets its name from the of eight chronological themed areas and, nearest village), are behind the fishermen’s with the help of explanatory texts, aerial cottages. Here you will find excellent floor photographs, maps and copies of finds, mosaics depicting animals and birds. visitors can learn about the glorious history of late Bronze Age Cyprus, whose

125 Route 14 Polis, Kato Pyrgos and Kykkos Distance: approximately 165 kilometres

ñ Interesting coastal and mountain drive ñ Ancient monasteries ñ Impressive scenery and views ñ Vineyards, wineries and pine forests ñ Good birdwatching and walking ñ Accommodation Leave Polis (once a very important ancient City Kingdom, now a small pleasant coastal town overlooking the delightful Chrysochous Bay) on the E704, signposted to . You are heading for Pachyammos and Kato Pyrgo along a narrow, fertile coastal strip with sandy beaches and capes to your left and mountains to your right.

Along the way you will see a wooden pier. This was the place where the copper ore from the nearby mines at Limni was loaded onto the ships for transportation abroad. There is a picnic site just before the pretty hill village of Argaka, which is a short detour to your right. At , which is known for its tasty oranges, and at Agia Marina the houses along the beach have vibrant gardens of lilies in the spring and the cultivation of peanuts and small quantities of tobacco are unique to this region.

126 Shortly after the village of , go left by a banana grove – look for a small blue and white ‘Fishing Shelter’ sign on a telegraph pole. There is a wonderful view of the bay and mountains from the tiny harbour. The small beach is good for snorkelling and the seashore pebbles are an illustration of the geology of this area. Wet a few to see the varied colours.

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As you drive on, the coastal strip is replaced by pine-covered slopes that fall vertically to the sea.

Pachyammos means ‘broad sand’ and here a beach of dark sand sweeps around the bay. The large church in the middle of the village is dedicated to Agios Rafael and is a popular pilgrimage site. After the village, you start to climb into the Tylliria, a swathe of austere forested territory on the north-west slopes of the Troodos Mountains.

127 The large bands of bare earth that can be time to check your gauge because there seen traversing the forest are firebreaks, is no more petrol to be had on this route. needed here because the ruggedness of this In the old part of the village, which is area makes access difficult for fire shaded by huge trees, go right onto the appliances. The barren terrain to your left F743, signposted to . is where, centuries ago, the trees were cut Drive up the valley of citrus, bananas and for shipbuilding and smelting in the peaches and go right to Pano Pyrgos. long-since defunct copper mines. Keep This tiny settlement is one of the last your eyes open for the wandering goats places in Cyprus where charcoal is that inhabit abandoned buildings – produced. Logs (mainly deadfall) from the the animals often stray onto the road. nearby forest are placed in pits on top of smouldering wood and covered with earth The archaeological museum to ‘cook’ slowly. The smoke-blackened in Polis houses an interesting stone houses are now mostly uninhabited but there is a little postal agency cum collection of antiquities, village store that also serves as the village all of which have been located coffee shop. in the area. These show the Back at the F743, go right and head for Kambos. The winding road now takes you importance of this region in into the Tylliria hinterland, with its deep the past. The Museum is on river valleys, mineral rich rocks and thick forest. As you travel south along the the Aphrodite Cultural Route. Pyrgos River, you might see moufflon skittering down the rock face to drink. Because of the new road, the economy and quality of life of the region has seen After climbing to Selladi tis Syrmenis an upturn. This is particularly apparent there is room to stop to take a look across when you reach the village of Mosfileri, to Morfou Bay, Cape Kormakiti and the where many of the old houses are being Mesaoria plain in the distance. The road turned into holiday homes. You can see now drops down and goes north along the the remains of the narrow old road on Limnitis valley and climbs again, offering either side just after Mansoura. amazing views of the coastline. Stop at the top and listen to the haunting sound of the Kato Pyrgos is the regional centre of the wind. As you go down into the Kampos Tylliria. It is a holiday retreat with hotels, River valley, go right at the signpost for apartments, tavernas, banks, a cottage Kampos. This narrow lane takes you to hospital and a petrol station. Now is the the quaint shady village of Kampos, where

128 there are tavernas and a small guesthouse. Drive on and go left onto the tarmac, Cherry orchards, vines and damask roses heading for Panagia. You get another line the road to . view of Mount Olympus on your left before reaching the quiet and peaceful As you continue up the road to Kykkos Monashilakas picnic site. After climbing Monastery, the peak of Mount Olympus is to between vine-clad to your left. terraces, go left onto the F622, Go back down the road and take the signposted to Statos Agios Fotios. left fork signposted to Stavros tis Pano Panagia is the birthplace of Psokas. Just before the fork you will Archbishop Makarios III, first president of glimpse the sea in the distance ahead of the Republic of Cyprus and you can visit you. At the next fork, take the forest his childhood home. Many of the traditional road left, signposted to Cedar Valley, houses here consist of a one family room and you will shortly get a view of Olympus, with an area behind for the animals and the highest point on the island, and the tiny a shared front door. The village has several chapel of Throni tis Panagias, which tavernas, rural accommodation and a overlooks , to your left. winery. As you travel to Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery, there is an extensive view to your right of the surrounding countryside and Kannaviou Dam. Travelling on, Agia Moni Monastery, one of the oldest on the island and believed to have been founded in 300AD over an ancient Temple of Hera, is to your left just before you go right onto the Cedar Valley contains hundreds of the E702, signposted to Choulou. indigenous cedar trees, cedrus brevifolia, Driving down into the vineyards, the view which differ slightly from their Lebanese sweeps across from the Pafos Forest cousin. The area has seats in the shade almost to the Akamas. Go through old and toilet facilities. Hikers can walk Statos, abandoned after the 1955 up to the summit of Mount Tripylos earthquake, although the villagers (1,362 metres), from where there continued to keep their zivania stills here, is a magnificent panorama of the Tylliria (See Section 1, Chapter 5, Food and and Pafos Forest. wine), and follow the road signposted

129 to Pentalia. There is a winery at Statos Kykkos Monastery, isolated among Agios Fotios to your left. Go right again magnificent mountains and forests, at the sign for Choulou, then follow is famous throughout the Orthodox world. the signs for Pafos. It houses an icon of the Most Merciful Virgin, reputedly painted by St Luke the After going through the lower end of Apostle during the Madonna’s lifetime. Statos and Agios Fotios, again abandoned This icon, which is kept in a silver but with some impressive architecture, you phylactery, is venerated by Cypriots who are in the heart of the Pafos wine country, pray to it regularly but especially at times with slow-moving villages where tradition of drought. Kykkos is of Byzantine origin, holds fast. The rolling hills are covered founded by the hermit Isaias, probably at with wild barley, almond trees and the end of the 11th century, with the aid vineyards. of the Byzantine Emporer Alexios In Choulou, a village of tall and narrow Komnenos. The first monastery was built stone houses, go left at the signpost to of wood. Over the centuries, Kykkos Pafos and take the road to Lemona. acquired considerable wealth and property In the past, this village was famous for its in Cyprus and abroad and had close silk and quite a few mulberry trees remain. connections with the Russian Church. Some of the older inhabitants can still The current assortment of buildings date recite the Song of Arodafnousa, in which the from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries and secret love between a mediaeval King of the frescoes and mosaics are of recent Cyprus and a noblewoman from Choulou, design and execution. To the south-west is is told. Throni tis Panagias (throne of the Virgin Cross the Ezousa River on the way to Mary), a place of pilgrimage overlooking Letymbou, where you will see an old olive the entire mountain range. Nearby is the mill and a linos (wine press), in a tiny tomb of Archbishop Makarios III, who was square to your right. The village has some a novice at Kykkos and who chose this site beautifully restored houses and it is said as his final resting place. Kykkos is open that there are twelve churches within its year round from dawn to dusk. boundaries, the most important being The Byzantine Museum at Kykkos Agios Kyrikos and Ioulitas. Monastery contains a breathtaking The vineyards continue past collection of priceless ecclesiastical and Tsada, all the way to the B7 Polis – treasures. The state-of-the-art interior Pafos road. of the building, which is a finely balanced Makarios Birthplace: Open 10:00 – 13:00 combination of ancient and modern, and 14:00 – 18:00 daily includes a small display of antiquities and a large gallery with Early Christian,

130 Byzantine and post-Byzantine church vestments, vessels and jewellery. There is a circular room with manuscripts and books and a splendid display of icons, frescoes and carvings in another chamber. Soothing Byzantine church music plays unobtrusively in the background. Open June – Oct 10:00 – 18:00, Nov – May 10:00 – 16:00. Panagia Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery (Our Lady of the Golden Pomegranate) is in beautiful wooded surroundings 830m above sea level, with wonderful views over the west coast of the island. The monastery was established in 1152 by the hermit Ignatius to house an icon with the image of the Virgin Mary believed to have been painted by St Luke the Evangelist. The icon had washed ashore at Pafos after being thrown into the sea at Isauria in Asia Minor to save it from iconoclasts. A fisherman found it and hid it in a cave from where, four hundred years later, Ignatuis retrieved it after a vision in which he saw the icon radiating light and an angel told him to take it to Monte Rogia and enshrine it there. The miraculous icon is now kept in a special casket.

A few years ago, the Abbott revived the monastery’s wine-making tradition using grapes from the monastery’s vineyards on the slopes of Mount Rogia. The winery is within the monastery’s cloisters and is open to visitors.

131 Route 15 Pafos Forest

Approximately 80 kilometres

ñ Forested mountain roads with impressive views ñ Moufflon sancturary ñ Excellent hiking and birdwatching ñ Quaint villages with traditional crafts ñ Freshwater fishing ñ Accommodation Leave the B7 Polis to Pafos road at Skouli on the road signposted to Dam. From the dam wall there is a wide-angle view across the Chrysochou Valley to the Laona Peninsula and the Akamas. This is a popular place with birdwatchers looking for waterbirds and waders. Go back down the road and go right at the signpost to Steni and Peristerona.

At the entrance to Peristerona, go left at the wooden signboard to ‘Aitichoulis Gorge’ and walk a little way behind the monument for an extensive view of the Polis area. This is a good vantage point from which to look for birds of prey wheeling above the gorge. Peristerona is the seat of the Bishop of Arsinoe and there is a very interesting Byzantine Museum on the ground floor of the bishopric. You pass an old olive press on the left as you leave the village. Follow the signs for Stavros tis Psokas. Drive into the narrow

132 village centre of Lysos and beside the restored old Church of the Panagia is a viewpoint where you can sit and take in the landscape of coastal villages and sea. Below the church is the original cobbled village square, which is notable for its many vryses (springs), where the women of the

N WE S village used to go every day to collect water. You pass a small hotel as you leave the village and start to climb into the Pafos Forest. As you ascend, there is a deep valley to your right and rockroses thrive beneath the tall pines lining the road. Stavros tis Psokas is a government forest station that gets its name from a long-gone monastery. It is also the headquarters of the Fire Brigade for the Pafos Forest. Stavros tis Psokas is a favoured spot with Cypriots,

133 who say it is the coolest place on the island right. The road skirts the dam, in summer. There are barbecue facilities then climbs and joins the tarmac at the large picnic site and there is a small at a t-junction, where you go right, shop, café, and limited accommodation. following the sign to Kannaviou. By far the most popular reason for visiting You will pass the dam wall on your right Stavros tis Psokas is to get a glimpse down the hill before going right onto of the rare and endangered moufflon (ovis the F725, signposted to Kritou orientalis ophion), which are reared and Marottou. You are now in an area of olive protected here in a huge government-run trees, wild barley and grape vines. In the enclosure. (See Section 1, Chapter 2, village, take the road signposted to Natural Environment). ‘Phiti’ and follow the arrows. At the To leave, take the road to your left as second church, go right and up. you face back the way you came. Fyti sits on a ridge and has extensive views This is an all-weather forest road all around. The arched ground-floor rooms signposted to Pafos on a dark green sign. of many of the traditional limestone houses Follow the signs to ‘Agia’ and on the are large in order to accommodate a voufa way down, there is a deep valley to your (loom). Weaving is still done at Fyti right and a view of the hills to the south. (See Section 1, Chapter 4, Rural Crafts Water seeps from the rocks and crosses and Skills) and you can see the women the track into the trackside stream, where working and buy their fine linen. bracken and ferns grow, and where you There is a weaving museum in the village may be lucky enough to spot freshwater square. crabs. Planes, oaks, arbutus and brambles line the valley floor. Agyia picnic site is in The next village, Lasa, used to be a centre deep shade on a tributary of the Ezousa of chair-making and there are still a few River and here you will find drinking water carpenters working. There is an olive press and toilets. A little further on is the Vrysi on your left and the old circular stone tou Diakou, an ice-cold spring, where threshing floors in the fields are still used. moufflon come to drink, leaving dainty On the road to , which is an almond hoof-prints in the mud. growing village, there are views of Evretou Go right at the fork in the road, Dam and the Pafos Forest. Many of the old following the sign to Kannaviou. houses in Simou have been restored and The road becomes a bit bumpy and narrow the village is gradually being repopulated as in places but is easily passable. better roads make it easier for people to After crossing a small bridge, you will see travel to Polis for work. the blue waters of Kannaviou Dam to your

134 After the village, you can take a side trip by going right at the signpost to Skarfos Bridge and Watermills. Both are ruined mediaeval structures built over five hundred years ago. The little track beside the bridge, which sits in a field, is a remnant of the mediaeval road from Polis to Pafos. From the main route, which goes between almond groves and grapevines, there is a wonderful vista of Evretou dam, a favoured spot for anglers, with a backdrop of the Akamas hills. To fish in the dam, anglers require a license from the Department of Fisheries. (See Section 1, Chapter 7, Countryside Activities). Just a few hundred metres after going right at the signpost to Evretou dam, you will reach the water’s edge. You can drive round the dam to the eerily beautiful ruins of old Evretou on the opposite bank. Go back to the road and go right to the B7 Polis-Pafos road. An alternative route is head up to Lysos and return to Polis via Kynousa or villages where you will enjoy some superb views over the Chrysochou Bay as you head down from the hills.

Arsinoe Byzantine Museum Apr-Oct, Mon-Fri 10:00-13:00, 14:00-18:00 Nov-Mar, Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00 Saturday all year 10:00-13:00

135 CYPRUS TOURISM ORGANISATION Pafos Leoforos Lemesou 19, Lefkosia (Nicosia) a) Gladstonos 3 P.O.Box 24535, CY 1390 Lefkosia(Nicosia) CY 8046 Pafos, Tel. 26 93 28 41 Cyprus, Tel. 22 69 11 00 b) Poseidonos 63A, CY 8042, Kato Pafos Telefax: 22 33 16 44 Tel. 26 93 05 21 E-mail: [email protected] c) Pafos International Airport Web-site: www.visitcyprus.com CY 8320 Pafos, Tel. 26 42 31 61 (service to all flights) TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES Polis (For personal and telephone enquiries only) Vasileos Stasioikou A’ 2 Open every morning except Sundays CY 8820, Polis Chrysochous and on Monday, Tel. 26 32 24 68 Tuesday, Thursday and Friday afternoons Agia Napa Lefkosia (Nicosia) Leoforos Kryou Nerou 12 Aristokyprou 11 CY 5330 Agia Napa, Tel. 23 72 17 96 Laïki Geitonia (East of Plateia Eleftherias) Paralimni - Protaras CY 1011 Lefkosia, Tel. 22 67 42 64 Leoforos Protara - Kavo Gkreko 356 Lemesos (Limassol) CY 5296 Protaras - Paralimni, a) Spyrou Araouzou 115 A’ Tel. 23 83 28 65 CY 3036 Lemesos, Tel. 25 36 27 56 Platres b) Georgiou A’, 22 CY 4820 Platres, Tel. 25 42 13 16 CY 4047 Lemesos, Potamos tis Germasogeias (eastern entrance of Dasoudi beach) Tel. 25 32 32 11 c) Lemesos Harbour P.O.Box 55605, CY 3781Lemesos Service to all passenger boats Tel. 25 57 18 68 Larnaka a) Plateia Vasileos Pavlou CY 6023 Larnaka, Tel. 24 65 43 22 b) Larnaka International Airport CY 7130 Larnaka, Tel. 24 64 35 76

136 FRANCE CYPRUS TOURIST OFFICE OFFICE DU TOURISME DE CHYPRE 17, Hanover Street London W1S 1YP 15, Rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris Tel. 0207 569 8800, Fax: 0207 499 4935 Tel. (01) 42 61 42 49, Fax: (01) 42 61 65 13 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] IRELAND CYPRUS TOURISM ORGANISATION OFFICE DU TOURISME DE CHYPRE 71, Lower Leeson Str., Dublin 2 DIENST VOOR TOERISME VAN CYPRUS Tel. 00 353-1-6629269 Avenue de Cortenbergh 61, Fax: 00 353-1-6629270 Kortenberglaan E-mail: [email protected] B-1000 Bruxelles/Brussel Tel. 02/735.06.21, Fax: 02/735.66.07 GERMANY E-mail: [email protected] FREMDENVERKEHRSZENTRALE ZYPERN, THE NETHERLANDS FRANKFURT CYPRUS VERKEERSBUREAU Zeil 127 - 60313 Frankfurt Keizersgracht 635, 1017 DS Amsterdam Tel. (069) 25 19 19, Fax: (069) 25 02 88 Tel. (020) 624 4358, Fax: (020) 638 3369 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] BERLIN SWEDEN Wallstr. 27, 10179 Berlin O CYPERNS TURISTRAD Tel. 0 3023 4575 90, Fax: 0 3023 4575 92 Norrlandsgatan 20, 1st floor, E-mail: cto_berlin@t—online.de 111 43 Stockholm SWITZERLAND Tel. (08) 10 50 25, Fax: (08) 10 64 14 FREMDENVERKEHRSZENTRALE E-mail: [email protected] ZYPERN FINLAND Gottfried Keller – Strasse 7, CH-8001 KYPROKSEN MATKAILUTOIMISTO Zürich , Tel. (+4144) 262 3303 Aleksanterinkatu 48B, 00100 Helsinki Fax: (+4144) 251 2417 Tel. (0) 9-476 09 100, Fax: (0) 9-476 09 120 Geneva: Tel: (+4122) 741 33 03 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] GREECE AUSTRIA CYPRUS TOURISM ORGANISATION ZYPERN TOURISMUS ATHENS Parkring 20, A–1010 Wien Voukourestiou 38, Kolonaki, Athens 10673 Tel. (01) 513 18 70, Fax: (01) 513 18 72 Tel. (210) 36 10 178, (210) 36 10 057 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: (210) 36 44 798 E-mail: cto–[email protected]

137 THESSALONIKI ST. PETERSBURG 37 Nikis Ave., Thessaloniki 54013, Prospect Chernyshevskogo P.O.Box 50046 Flat 56, House 17, 191123 St. Petersburg Tel. 00 2310-242880 Tel: 007-812-332-58-08 Fax: 00 2310-286881 Fax: 007-812-332-58-09 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] HUNGARY ENTE NAZIONALE PER IL TURISMO DI CIPRUSI IDEGENFORGALMI CIPRO HIVATAL Via Santa Sofia 6, 20122 Milano H-1051 Budapest, Dorottya Str. 3. III floor Tel. 02 58 30 33 28, 02 58 31 98 35 Tel. 00-36-1-266 6044 Fax: 02 58 30 33 75 Fax: 00-36-1-266 6043 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] UNITED STATES POLAND CYPRUS TOURISM ORGANIZATION CYPRYJSKA ORGANIZACJA 13 East 40th Str. New York, NY 10016 TURYSTYCZNA Tel. (00 1212) 683-5280, Piekna 20, 00-549 Warszawa Fax: (00 1212) 683-5282 Tel. 48 22-827 90 36 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 48 22-827 90 34 E-mail: [email protected] CYPRUS TOURISM ORGANISATION CZECH REPUBLIC Top Tower-14th floor, Dizengoff Centre KYPERSK∞` ORGANIZACE 50 Dizengoff Str., - Tel-Aviv 64332 CESTOVNI`HO RUCHU Tel. 00-972-3-52 57 442, Pod Hradbami 662/9, 16000 Praha 6 Fax: 00-972-3-52 57 443 Tel. 00-420-222-253 097 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 00-420-222-251 639 E-mail: [email protected] RUSSIAN FEDERATION CYPRUS TOURISM ORGANISATION- MIDDLE EAST & ARABIAN GULF MOSCOW CYPRUS TOURISM ORGANISATION Povarskaya 9, Building 2, 121069, Moscow Al Ghurair Center, Offices Tower 436B Tel. 007 495 744 2953/54 P.O.Box 94670, Deira, Dubai, UAE Fax: 007 495 744 2955 Tel. (00971) 4 2277637 E-mail: [email protected] Fax. (00971) 4 2277638 E-mail: [email protected]

138 infoGeneral The fire hazard Cyprus weather It is highly likely that fires would get Cyprus enjoys an intense Mediterranean started in the Cyprus countryside climate, with long, dry summers from especially during the summer months when mid-May to mid-October and with mild it gets parched and dry. Please be aware of winters from December to February which the danger and avoid discarding cigarettes are separated by short autumn and spring out of car windows, having barbecues in seasons. Summer is the season of high places not allowed or discarding glass temperatures with cloudless skies but the bottles which can easily reflect the sun. sea breeze creates a pleasant atmosphere If you do notice a fire or even smoke, in the coastal areas. Winters are mild with please call 1407 immediately. some rain and snow on Troodos Mountains. In Cyprus there is abundant Driving sunshine. Even in December and January Driving is on the left, with priority from there is an average of six hours of bright the right at roundabouts. The road layout sunshine per day. and road signs follow the international system and distances and speeds are given Clothing/Dress and Activities in kilometres. Fairly good surfaced roads April-May: Days are pleasantly warm, complying with international traffic but temperatures may fall a bit at night. requirements link the towns and the - Medium-weight and summer apparel various villages. Four lane motorways - Excellent season for those who prefer to connect the capital Lefkosia (or Nicosia) enjoy nature as the countryside is green with the coastal towns of Lemesos and flowers are in blossom. (Limassol), Larnaka, and Agia Napa. June-July-August: Warmest months of Minor roads and forest roads are still summer largely unsurfaced but in good to fair - Very light weight summer clothing condition. Appropriate care should be - Ideal for swimming and all beach/water taken when using these roads especially activities. during wet weather. Police will fine you for September - October: Warm days, cool careless driving, not wearing a motorcycle October evenings helmet or a seatbelt and using a mobile - Light weight apparel for the day phone while driving. and medium-weight for the evenings in October. Driving licenses November: Pleasantly warm days Visitors in Cyprus can drive using a valid - Medium-weight apparel. Light woollies. International driving license, or their - Ideal weather for autumn travel. Lunches National driving license, provided it is valid in the open-air still a delight. Sunbathing for the class of vehicle they wish to drive. and even swimming can still be enjoyed, as well as most outdoor sports.

139 December-January: credit cards and have efficient and easy-to- - It may rain occasionally, yet the promise work self-service pumps when the garage of glorious sunshine is still there. is closed. Petrol is sold by the litre and - Winter clothing-not heavy coats though! 15% VAT is included in all prices. - Outdoor activities and excursions can be Pharmacies enjoyed. These are in main towns only and are open February: The possibility of exceptionally during shop hours. Pharmacists are highly warm days. Almond trees in blossom, qualified and able to assist with many minor occasional rain and mild day time problems. The list of late-night openings is temperatures are the harbingers of spring. displayed in all pharmacy windows or you It can be quite cold however in the can find out about it on 90901433. evenings. - Winter apparel. Photography - Conditions are ideal for snow skiing on Please note that you are not allowed Troodos mountains to take photographs near military camps March: Moderating weather with plenty or military installations, in museums where of sunshine and with nature at its best. a special license is required by the - Winter apparel with medium-weight appropriate authorities and in churches wear. with mural paintings and icons, if ‘flash’ - Most outdoor activities can be enjoyed is required. and March is an excellent period for long Wild flowers country walks. Please do not pick the many endemic and Safety in the sun rare wild flowers and herbs you will find in Avoid being in the sun between the Cyprus countryside. 11:00 -15:00 and always apply a suncream. Traffic accident Religion In case of a road traffic accident call the The dominant religion of Cyprus is Greek police (199). Your statements will be taken Orthodox. Visitors are welcomed in in English and read to you. Get the name churches but must be properly dressed and number of attending police officers with long trousers for men and knee-high Liabilities are often agreed on the spot. (or longer) skirts or trousers for women. Call your car hire company immediately. At mosques you should leave your shoes Afternoon relax hours (Siesta) off. Siesta time is still observed in most villages Petrol Stations and shops might be closed between It is advisable to fill up before you leave 13:00 –15:00 (or some cases 16:00) towns. Petrol stations take electronic during summer time.

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