Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
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BUYINGGUIDE The view of the vineyards from Wettolsheim in Alsace, home to MARCH three grand cru sites. 2014 IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 2 ALSACE 21 PROVENCE 24 CENTRAL ITALY 32 AUSTRIA 39 GREECE 40 SOUTH AFRICA 43 CHILE 50 CALIFORNIA 65 WASHINGTON 76 NEW YORK 81 SPIRITS 83 BEER FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE acter floods the palate. It’s clearly a wine to age, so don’t drink before 2016. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. The Wine Enthusiast abv: 14% Price: $42 Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Saering Grand and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine ALSACE Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a perfumed, Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular 94 contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren White wine for spring? Come to Alsace. complex wine that veers between showcasing the Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe freshest fruit flavors and hints of maturity. It’s fresh Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster with berry notes and intense with acidity, but rich lsace is one of the best sources for deli- If you’re adding to your cellar, buy some 2010s Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; in texture as well. This is a wine to age much longer, European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe Joseph Phelps 2011 Quarter Moon Vineyard cious, fruity white wines. As this month’s now and enjoy them after you have drunk the so don’t drink before 2017. Maisons Marques & Do- in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Cali- Gramercy Cellars 2010 Lagniappe Syrah (Co- Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). fornia Editor Steve Heimoff and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone 95 reviews show, there are dozens of great 2011s, although some of the top-scoring wines maines USA. —R.V. lumbia Valley). Sourced from Red Willow, Credit the cool vintage for this Pinot’s mouthwater- in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean 98 examples waiting to be bought and drunk, from the latter vintage will be exceptions to this abv: 13% Price: $29 Sullivan in Washington. Olsen and Les Collines, this is the finest effort yet ing acidity. The wine is rich but pristine with fruit, If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- from Gramercy Cellars and one of the greatest Sy- a testament to Phelps’ superb viticultural practic- Ain a variety of styles. Do you want fine dry Ries- general guideline. tials appear following the note. When no initials appear following Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Kitterlé rahs ever produced in Washington state. Think Her- es and attention to detail at the sorting table. It’s ling at a good price? Perhaps a sweet selection There’s another wine style from Alsace in- a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). An astonish- and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Un- mitage with brighter fruit. It’s intensely aromatic, dry and crisp, yet rich and delicious, with flavors to enjoy for dessert? Maybe you’re looking for cluded in this month’s Buying Guide: Crémant 94 less otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and ing wine, this showchases mature Riesling flavors all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. dense and seamless, stacked with rich flavors of of strawberry and raspberry jam, rosehip tea and some of the best Gewurztramin- d’Alsace. These sparkling wines with abundant fruit, a classic petrol character, and Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, mixed berries, layers of smoke, earth and herb, and cedar. The tannins give the wine a velvety grip. As ers in the world, or a unique style are incredibly popular in France a strong, steely texture. It’s structured with tight its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the punctuated by citrusy acidity. Highlights of oranges good as it is now, it would be a shame not to cellar submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot of Pinot Gris? The answers to all “The 2011 vintage for the great values they typi- texture and intense acidity that lingers on the fin- be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for and tangerines sneak into the finish, which lingers it. Your window of drinkability begins in 2019 and ish. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. for an astonishingly long time. Exceptional in every extends for 15 years after.Cellar Selection. —S.H. of these needs are found in Al- has given us cally represent. Now it’s time —R.V. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS way. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $75 sace. wines that are for Americans to take notice. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind un- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 There are many wines from Although Alsace is center- less otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group soft and ready to flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning 2011 reviewed this issue. It stage in this issue’s Buying René Muré 2010 Clos Saint-Landelin Vor- scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustom- bourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). So in- ary are retasted. wasn’t the greatest vintage in Al- drink, with just the Guide, it also includes stunning 94 tense and concentrated, this wine epitomizes the ABOUT THE SCORES sace; 2010 and 2009 were bet- whites from the Marche region right level of essence of Riesling. Steely, tight, very nervy and Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. ter, as they were over almost all of Central Italy, as well as selec- Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying acidity. ” bone dry, it is packed with flavors of citrus, orange tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. of France. But the 2011 vintage tions from Austria and Greece. zest, grapefruit and green apple skins. The texture Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. has given us wines that are soft From the New World, check of this young wine is beautifully crisp. Drink from Superb 94–97: A great achievement. 2016. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. and ready to drink, with just the right level of out reviews of wines from Chile and South Af- Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. —R.V. acidity. rica, plus hundreds of reviews from Califor- Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; abv: 13% Price: $50 often good value. Stone The Crows 2011 Three Twins Vineyard Can be employed in casual, less- The reviews also demonstrate that white nia, Washington and New York. And, as always, Acceptable 80–82: Domaine Weinbach 2011 Schlossberg Grand Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). After a critical circumstances. 95 wines from Alsace can age beautifully in cer- be sure to check out our complete database, Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Furstentum Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is, quite simply, great inaugural 2010 vintage, this is another im- Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 96 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). While still great Riesling. It has all the subtlety that the grape pressive Cabernet from this winery. The vineyard tain vintages. Wines (especially Rieslings) that with thousands more reviews, at buyingguide. 93 points) are not reviewed. young and fruity, this has the potential to be a com- can produce, as well as a sense of longevity. There’s is in the Pritchard Hill area, and the wine is 95% are rated 90 points and above from the excel- winemag.com. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS plex, long-lived wine. It boasts stone fruit and white an intensity of fruit—apples and citrus—that cuts Cabernet with 5% Petit Verdot. It’s a lush wine lent 2007 vintage are still remarkably youthful. Cheers! —Roger Voss Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- flower aromas, a tight structure and a hint of sweet- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price through the texture, leaving a beautiful, lingering that’s rich in black currant, cocoa and plum flavors, ness. Drink from 2018. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. with unique qualities that merit special attention. aftertaste. Still young, drink from 2016. Vineyard enhanced by smoky oak. The wine shows enormous Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. complexity, with layers of minerals and dried herbs reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation abv: 13.5% Price: $39 that are hard to describe. It has a long life ahead does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but Domaine Charles Baur 2010 Brand Grand Cru that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In of it, so drink now–2022, at least. Cellar Selection. Domaines Schlumberger 2009 Kessler Grand Riesling (Alsace). The sand and granite soil general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. —S.H. 93 Cru Riesling (Alsace). There is both won- of the Brand vineyard gives an intensely structured Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in abv: 14.5% Price: $85 RIESLING 95 relation to price.