BUYINGGUIDE

The view of the from Wettolsheim in Alsace, home to MARCH three grand cru sites. 2014

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

2 ALSACE 21 PROVENCE 24 CENTRAL ITALY 32 AUSTRIA 39 GREECE

40 SOUTH AFRICA

43 CHILE

50 CALIFORNIA

65 WASHINGTON 76 NEW YORK

81 SPIRITS

83 BEER

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

WINEMAG.COM | 1

BUYINGGUIDE

acter floods the palate. It’s clearly a to age, so don’t drink before 2016. Brands. —R.V. The Wine Enthusiast abv: 14% Price: $42 Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Saering Grand and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine ALSACE Cru (Alsace). This is a perfumed, Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular 94 contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren for spring? Come to Alsace. complex wine that veers between showcasing the Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe freshest fruit flavors and hints of maturity. It’s fresh Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. ­Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster with berry notes and intense with acidity, but rich lsace is one of the best sources for deli- If you’re adding to your cellar, buy some 2010s Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; in texture as well. This is a wine to age much longer, ­European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe Joseph Phelps 2011 Quarter Moon Vineyard cious, fruity white . As this month’s now and enjoy them after you have drunk the so don’t drink before 2017. Maisons Marques & Do- in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Cali- Gramercy Cellars 2010 Lagniappe (Co- 95 Estate Grown (Sonoma Coast). reviews show, there are dozens of great 2011s, although some of the top-scoring wines fornia Editor Steve Heimoff and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone maines USA. —R.V. in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean 98 lumbia Valley). Sourced from Red Willow, Credit the cool for this Pinot’s mouthwater- examples waiting to be bought and drunk, from the latter vintage will be exceptions to this abv: 13% Price: $29 ­Sullivan in Washington. Olsen and Les Collines, this is the finest effort yet ing acidity. The wine is rich but pristine with fruit, If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- from Gramercy Cellars and one of the greatest Sy- a testament to Phelps’ superb viticultural practic- Ain a variety of styles. Do you want fine dry Ries- general guideline. tials appear following the note. When no initials appear following Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Kitterlé rahs ever produced in Washington state. Think Her- es and attention to detail at the sorting table. It’s ling at a good price? Perhaps a sweet selection There’s another wine style from Alsace in- a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). An astonish- and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Un- mitage with brighter fruit. It’s intensely aromatic, dry and , yet rich and delicious, with flavors to enjoy for dessert? Maybe you’re looking for cluded in this month’s Buying Guide: Crémant 94 less otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and ing wine, this showchases mature Riesling flavors all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. dense and seamless, stacked with rich flavors of of strawberry and raspberry jam, rosehip tea and some of the best Gewurztramin- d’Alsace. These sparkling wines with abundant fruit, a classic petrol character, and Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, mixed berries, layers of smoke, earth and herb, and cedar. The tannins give the wine a velvety grip. As ers in the world, or a unique style are incredibly popular in France a strong, steely texture. It’s structured with tight its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the punctuated by citrusy acidity. Highlights of oranges good as it is now, it would be a shame not to cellar submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot of ? The answers to all “The 2011 vintage for the great values they typi- texture and intense acidity that lingers on the fin- be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for and tangerines sneak into the finish, which lingers it. Your window of drinkability begins in 2019 and ish. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. for an astonishingly long time. Exceptional in every extends for 15 years after.Cellar Selection. —S.H. of these needs are found in Al- has given us cally represent. Now it’s time —R.V. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS way. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $75 sace. wines that are for Americans to take notice. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind un- abv: 14.2% Price: $55 There are many wines from Although Alsace is center­ less otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group soft and ready to flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning 2011 reviewed this issue. It stage in this issue’s Buying René Muré 2010 Clos Saint-Landelin Vor- scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustom- ary are retasted. wasn’t the greatest vintage in Al- drink, with just the Guide, it also includes stunning 94 bourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). So in- tense and concentrated, this wine epitomizes the ABOUT THE SCORES sace; 2010 and 2009 were bet- whites from the Marche region right level of essence of Riesling. Steely, tight, very nervy and Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. ter, as they were over almost all of Central Italy, as well as selec- Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying acidity. ” bone dry, it is packed with flavors of citrus, orange tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. of France. But the 2011 vintage tions from Austria and Greece. zest, grapefruit and green apple skins. The texture Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. has given us wines that are soft From the New World, check of this young wine is beautifully crisp. Drink from Superb 94–97: A great achievement. 2016. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. and ready to drink, with just the right ­level of out reviews of wines from Chile and South Af- Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. —R.V. acidity. rica, hundreds of reviews from Califor- Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; abv: 13% Price: $50 often good value. Stone The Crows 2011 Three Twins Vineyard The reviews also demonstrate that white nia, Washington and New York. And, as always, Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- Domaine Weinbach 2011 Schlossberg Grand (Napa Valley). After a critical circumstances. 95 wines from Alsace can age beautifully in cer- be sure to check out our complete database, Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Furstentum Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is, quite simply, great inaugural 2010 vintage, this is another im- Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 96 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). While still great Riesling. It has all the subtlety that the pressive Cabernet from this winery. The vineyard tain . Wines (especially ) that with thousands more reviews, at buyingguide.­ 93 points) are not reviewed. young and fruity, this has the potential to be a com- can produce, as well as a sense of longevity. There’s is in the Pritchard Hill area, and the wine is 95% are rated 90 points and above from the excel- winemag.com. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS plex, long-lived wine. It boasts stone fruit and white an intensity of fruit—apples and citrus—that cuts Cabernet with 5% . It’s a lush wine lent 2007 vintage are still remarkably youthful. Cheers! —Roger Voss Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- flower aromas, a tight structure and a hint of sweet- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price through the texture, leaving a beautiful, lingering that’s rich in black currant, cocoa and plum flavors, ness. Drink from 2018. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. with unique qualities that merit special attention. aftertaste. Still young, drink from 2016. Vineyard enhanced by smoky . The wine shows enormous Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. complexity, with layers of minerals and dried herbs reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation abv: 13.5% Price: $39 that are hard to describe. It has a long life ahead does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but Domaine Charles Baur 2010 Brand Grand Cru that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In of it, so drink now–2022, at least. Cellar Selection. Domaines Schlumberger 2009 Kessler Grand 93 Riesling (Alsace). The sand and granite soil general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. —S.H. Cru Riesling (Alsace). There is both won- of the Brand vineyard gives an intensely structured Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in abv: 14.5% Price: $85 RIESLING 95 relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for derful bite and density to this great wine. It has a wine that’s tight and steely. It’s rich with apricot determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener- Domaine Weinbach 2011 Schlossberg Grand weighty texture full of ripe, rich fruit. At the same and pear flavors made crisp with refreshing acidity. ally priced at $15 or less. 96 Cru Riesling (Alsace). For full review see time, the wine is bone dry and crisp with acidity. It’ Drink from 2015. Grape News Importing. Editors’ SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW page 3. Cellar Selection. s just beginning to mature, and while enjoyable now, Choice. —R.V. Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ abv: 13.5% Price: $39 it’s better to wait until 2016. Maisons Marques & abv: 13% Price: $27 contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Domaines USA. —R.V. Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. Trimbach 2007 Clos Ste Hune Riesling (Al- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Domaine Ostertag 2010 Clos Mathis Riesling net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there 96 sace). Clos Ste Hune comes from a small 93 (Alsace). Full in the mouth, this is a warm is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that parcel in the Rosacker Grand Cru vineyard. It is a Trimbach 2007 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling style of wine. It has weight, ripeness and fruitiness reviews will appear in the magazine. Wine Enthusiast reserves Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Laurence wonderful, ethereal paean to Riesling—crisp while (Alsace). For full review see page 3. Editors’ with abundant apricot and pear flavors. It is enjoy- the right to publish any reviews of products submitted to or pur- Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Laurence Faller 95 chased for our tasting and review program. All samples must be 95 intensely perfumed with aromas of fennel and lico- Choice. able now although it will certainly age well. Drink accompanied by the appropriate submission form, which may be is the family winemaker at Domaine Weinbach, and Trimbach 2007 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling rice. It’s dry in style, with elegant citrus flavors and abv: 13% Price: $65 until 2022. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar downloaded from our Web site. this wine is a tribute to her skills. It is a wonderful 95 (Alsace). One of Trimbach’s top wines, this a straight line of steely acidity, but finishes with a Selection. —R.V. LABELS blend of rich fruits, warm spice and tight acidity, impressive Riesling, with all its bottle time, is ma- hint of honey. While delicious now, it’s not quite Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Ste Catherine abv: 13% Price: $42 Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given with a finish that lasts and lasts in the mouth. It turing beautifully. It has that petrol character that the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and mature and could continue to improve until 2025. 94 Riesling (Alsace). This is a beautifully per- printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information is a very fine wine, designed for aging, and would is typical of aged Riesling, as well as a strong sense Esprit du Vin. —R.V. fumed wine, that, while rich with fruit, maintains a Kuentz-Bas 2011 Pfersigberg Grand Cru on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax be best enjoyed after 2016. Vineyard Brands.Cellar of steeliness and intense acidity on the finish. It is abv: 13% Price: $NA crisp, steely and tight youthfulness. It’s juicy char- 93 Riesling (Alsace). This is a deliciously rich 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. Selection. —R.V. probably at its peak now, but will drink well until Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 13.5% Price: $45 2018. Esprit du Vin. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 13% Price: $65 Continued on Page 14

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 3

BUYINGGUIDE

Cornerstone 2010 The Cornerstone Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sau- Sante Arcangeli 2012 Split Rail Vineyard Dunham 2010 XVI Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Estelle Woodward Canyon 2010 Estate Reserve Mer- 94 (Napa Valley). This wine is massively ripe, 94 vignon (Red Mountain). Don’t look for this 94 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). With a 93 lumbia Valley). The sixteenth edition of 93 (Columbia Valley). is the principal 93 lot-Petit Verdot--Cabernet with black currant, dark chocolate and anise flavors. new producer to remain under the radar for long; pale color and mouthwatering acidity, this delicate- Dunham’s benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon bears a grape here, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Ver- Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). A blend of estate-­ Cabernet Sauvignon brings a black currant note and this is the third successive vintage featuring beau- ly structured Pinot goes well beyond its immediate strong scent of new oak—it’s aged in 70% French dot filling out the blend. This is an elegant, sculpted grown Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and tannic power, Cabernet Franc adds a cherried rich- tifully crafted, distinctive wines. The Red Mountain flavors of raspberry tea, pomegranates, persim- and 30% American. The wood is dominant, which wine, built upon a sturdy foundation of supple, ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a juicy, liquorous wine ness, and Merlot lends a soft, feminine touch. The fruit has that region’s stony minerality. Immaculate, mons, orange peel, exotic spices and oak to offer a is not surprising in a wine built for long term aging. Columbia Valley fruit. Raspberry and cherry flavors wrapped up tightly around sweet and tangy black- result is noble, but big, thick tannins call for time in tart red currant and cherry flavors, still tight and Burgundian touch of earth and mushrooms. There’s Given plenty of time to breathe, bright red fruits, get a spicy lift from the Petit Verdot, while the Cab- berry and cherry fruits. The tannins are svelte and the cellar. Consider opening from 2017, although it young, are wrapped with lightly toasty notes from also a firm, stony minerality on the palate. This gor- citrusy acids and a lovely mix of toast, caramel and ernet adds focus and heft to the tannins. —P.G. the finish long, while the aging brings on sub- will go for a decade or two longer than that. Cellar barrel aging. Cellar Selection. —P.G. geous Pinot was produced in tiny quantities of 300 clove accents emerge. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $50 stantial flavors of cedar, Bourbon and vanilla.Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 cases and will drink well over the next six years. Ed- abv: 13.4% Price: $45 Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $150 itors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $79 abv: 14.1% Price: $36

Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Arlette Goldschmidt 2008 Game Ranch Single Vine- 94 (Columbia Valley). Winemaker Kit Singh ONX 2011 Praetorian (Paso Robles). This Black Cat 2010 Family Cuvée (Napa Valley). 94 yard Selection PLUS Cabernet Sauvignon has tweaked this Right Bank-style blend, but it re- Efestē 2012 Evergreen Riesling (Columbia 93 blend of , , and 92 This is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvi- (Oakville). This 100% Cabernet is so rich with mains solidly anchored in 49% Merlot and 29% 93 Valley). Dry and crisply detailed, this deli- Mourvèdre offers such generosity of fruit, but man- gnon and Syrah from Coombsville. It’s dense with blackberries, black currants and oak, you might be Cabernet Franc, with a small amount of Cabernet Bella 2010 Rocky Ridge Vineyard cious, bracing Riesling combines refreshing miner- ages to finish dry and clean. Tannins are grippy in tannins, but they’re very finely woven, and the wine tempted to drink it now. Don’t. It’s a wine that will Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Tart, young raspberry 93 (Rockpile). The vintage was a good one for ality with delicate yet complex fruit flavors of apple, the mouth, but flavors of dried currant, leather and has a gentle grace. The flavors of blackberries are develop over many years. The tannins are thick and and pomegranate fruit flavors are set against vividly Bella’s , and this one, which contains a pear and tangerine. It’s full-bodied and drinking black cherry jam burst through. What a great wine pristine and ripe, and accompanied by a new oak structured, and the acidity balanced. Begin drinking crisp mineral notes. Tannins are supple and propor- splash of Petite Sirah and Carignane, is their best. It beautifully, but has the structure to develop over a to decant for a few hours and serve up with rich beef smokiness. Good as it is now, it will develop bottle this beauty in 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. tionate and the flavors beautifully defined. On the is quintessential Sonoma County Zin, dry, yet rich decade or more. You decide whether to enjoy it now dishes. —S.H. complexity after 2016.Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 finish, a delightful detail of carpaccio appears. Cel- and heady, and floods the mouth with ripe raspber- or tuck it away. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $45 abv: 13.8% Price: $48 lar Selection. —P.G. ries, cherries, red licorice and exotic spices. Produc- abv: 12.8% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 tion was only 300 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

Black Cat 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). This Rodney Strong 2010 Rockaway Cabernet 92 Syrah has a fine, complex structure of tan- Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Co- 93 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). There’s a nins and acids, with flashy black currant and oak Hunnicutt 2010 9-3-5 Cabernet Sauvignon Owen Roe 2011 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel 93 lumbia Valley). If this wine carried a more thick chocolate and blackberry-jam richness to flavors. Flavors of grilled meat sprinkled with 94 (Napa Valley). A worthy followup to the 94 Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). Sourced from Cornerstone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon prestigious winery’s name on the label, it would sell this Cabernet that makes it delicious already. It’s black pepper lend a profile that’s characteristically splendid 2008 and 2009 vintages, this 100% Cab- what is arguably Red Willow’s finest block of Syrah, 93 (Howell Mountain). Ripe, vivacious black- for double, even triple the asking price. Cool climate blended with a little Malbec and Petit Verdot, and Syrah. Made from 100% Syrah from the winery’s ernet is a blend of from St. Helena, Ruth- this is superbly balanced and remarkably concen- berry, black currant and oak flavors are folded into details of earth and herb join the peppery blue fruit boasts good structural integrity and ample grape Coombsville vineyard, it will develop bottle com- erford and Oakville. It defines Napa Cabernet with trated for this cool site from a cool vintage. Cassis complex tannins in this dramatic Cabernet Sauvi- notes, wrapped in sweet brown spices and toasty tannins, while new French oak lends wood tannins plexity over the next six years. —S.H. lush, intricate and complex favors of blackberry fruit is streaked with licorice and mocha, showing gnon. Blended with 10% Merlot, it’s dry, firm and tannins. There is lovely concentration and balance, and a sweet smokiness. As good as it is now, you abv: 14.5% Price: $48 jam, cassis liqueur, milk chocolate and caramel- plenty of new oak influence without sacrificing noble, but severely immature at this stage and will with Rhône-like nuances of meat and pepper. Give may want to lay this wine down for 6–8 years, to ized oak that finish dry and long. The tannins are depth or fruit. Drink soon or tuck it away for a few require plenty of bottle age. Give it six more years, this a little extra time and attention and it will re- let it express even more of a sense of . Cellar refined, but thick. This is a wine for the cellar. Start more years; either way it’s a gem. Editors’ Choice. at the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ward you magnificently.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Selection. —S.H. enjoying it after 2017.Cellar Selection. —S.H. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $80 abv: 13.9% Price: $21 abv: 15% Price: $75 abv: 14.6% Price: $125 abv: 14.1% Price: $55

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 5

BUYINGGUIDE

Cornerstone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Efestē 2010 Big Papa Old Block Cabernet Efestē 2010 Upright Klipsun Vineyard Merlot Ochagavia 2011 Racies Nobles Cabernet Sau- Prime 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Coombs­ Simonsig 2011 Redhill (Stellen- 92 (Napa Valley). Everything about this Cab- 92 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The old blocks 92 (Red Mountain). This is the first vintage for 92 vignon (Maipo Valley). Crisp, spicy aromas 92 ville). This is an excellent Cabernet that’s 92 bosch). A decadent blend of ripe berries ernet argues for cellaring. With a little Merlot and referenced in this pure Cabernet Sauvignon are Upright—100% Klipsun Vineyard and 100% va- of red fruits matched against oregano, basil and ol- dry, firmly tannic, and has fine acidity. It’s a bit less and rich oak characterizes this wine; sweet smoke Cabernet Franc, it’s enormously complex, with fruit sourced from a perfect pantheon of Washington’s rietal Merlot. Thick and syrupy, it’s a full throttle ive notes give this Cabernet a lot of character and flashy than the ’09 and ’10, but has better structure, and baking spice mingle harmoniously with notes flavors that range from blackberries and cherries to finest vineyards: Klipsun, Bacchus, Sagemoor, Kiona wine, with deep flavors of berry, cherry and cassis. points of interest. The palate is tight and well struc- and may well gain traction with six years or longer of mashed raspberry and blackberry, accented by black currants. There’s also a pleasant herbaceous- and Red Willow. The wine has a charming delicacy, Red licorice lightly streaks through the back end, tured, while dark berry, spice, herb and chocolate in the cellar. It’s 100% Cabernet blended from three hints of hickory-cured bacon and raw cocoa nibs. ness that suggests sweet green peas. The tannins are fragrant with tobacco and cherry, yet thick on the and the wine makes a smooth landing on a strip of flavors flow onto a toasty, minty, warm and tannic Coombsville vineyards. Cellar Selection. —S.H. The medium-weight mouth is structured and bold, significant, so let it develop bottle complexity until tongue with black cherry, cassis and cola. It finishes Bourbon barrel notes. Cellar Selection. —P.G. finish. This is a bit aggressive now; give it two years abv: 13.9% Price: $64 with chewy tannins and heady flavors of plum and 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. balanced, lively and deep. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $39 and drink through 2019. Santa Carolina. Cellar Se- berry preserves, roasted coffee and sweet licorice. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $54 lection. —M.S. The finish is long and dry, and although this would abv: 14.5% Price: $24 certainly benefit from 5–10 years of cellaring time, it’s approachable now with decanting. Quintessen- tial Wines. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $36

Rodney Strong 2010 Alexander’s Crown Cab- 92 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This Delgadillo 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Efestē 2011 Emmy (Wahluke Slope). Made Cabernet is immediately succulent, with smooth 92 Valley). A blend of grapes from St. Helena 92 from 71% Mourvèdre, 16% Grenache and tannins, gorgeous layers of oak, and intricate flavors and Coombsville, this is a balanced combination of 13% Syrah all aged in neutral French oak, this pops Hunnicutt 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). Ripe ONX 2011 Crux (Paso Robles). This blend is of blackberries, black cherries, plums and mocha. warm, ripe fruit and cool-climate acidity. The fla- aromatically, with abundant black pepper, rare 92 cherry, blackberry, red currant, cocoa and 92 comprised of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre The alcohol is high, giving this 100% Cabernet vors are ripe with black currants and new French meat and . It’s full bodied and richly fla- oak flavors mark this lush Merlot. The grapes hail and Cabernet Sauvignon. The GSM combination some heat, but it should pair well with char-broiled Viu Manent 2010 El Incidente Carmenère oak. It’s already throwing sediment, but it should vored, with a supple feel. —S.S. from the Coombsville region. The structure is just gives it rich, accessible flavors of cherries, raspber- steak. —S.H. 92 (Colchagua Valley). Lofty from the start, this reward additional time in the cellar. Give it until abv: 15% Price: $45 beautiful, a graceful integration of acidity, tannins ries and red currants, while the Cabernet, at just abv: 15.5% Price: $75 extracted Carmenère pumps out toasty, herbal aro- at least 2017, although it could still be rocking and and alcohol. Drink now–2018. —S.H. 7% of the blend, brings dark, brooding fruit notes, mas of smoked meat, leather and black fruits. The rolling in 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 as well as depth and tannins. This rich wine com- palate feels flush and thick, while flavors of baked abv: 15% Price: $85 bines power with elegance. —S.H. blackberry, herb, spice, mint and pepper finish with abv: 15% Price: $45 a warm wave of mocha and chewy tannins. Drink through 2017. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Efestē 2012 Feral Evergreen Vineyard Sauvi- 92 gnon Blanc (Columbia Valley). The first Feral made by new winemaker, Peter Devison, continues Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Proprietor’s Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Heritage Vines Zin- a tradition of excellence. Natural yeasts and fer- 92 Cuvée (Columbia Valley). Lovely aromatics Santa Rita 2008 Triple C (Maipo Valley). Dry, 92 fandel (Sonoma County). This is a big, pow- mentation in neutral oak, combined with a superb push scents of espresso, cassis, truffle and bak- 92 leafy, herbal aromas come with berry pow- erful yet well-mannered Zinfandel, blended with vintage and world class vineyard, equal a gorgeous er’s chocolate right up front. The wine is polished, ONX 2011 Mad Crush (Paso Robles). This is er and spice. Triple C stands for Cabernets Franc 16% Petite Sirah. The Zinfandel vines average 30 bottle of wine. Creamy, leesy, textural and deeply fine-boned and balanced, with taut cranberry and 92 one of ONX’s drier, leaner wines. Blended and Sauvignon as well as Carmenère. This is a wide Dunham 2012 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling years of age, and it’s classically Dry Creek, with an imbued with mineral-soaked citrus fruit, flesh and raspberry fruit. It brings in subtle accents of chalk, from Grenache, Tempranillo and Mourvèdre, the load on the palate, with smooth tannins and savory, 91 (Columbia Valley). At a medium alcohol per- exotic spiciness and briary, brambly notes of black- rind, this ultrarefreshing wine is a joy. Notes of cu- earth, rock and lead pencil, building to a firm, beau- raspberry and red currant flavors are grounded with roasted berry flavors that lead to a finish boasting centage, this is a sweeter-than-usual vintage for berry, raspberry and Dr. Pepper. The tannin-acid cumber and melon contribute further complexity tifully structured finish.Cellar Selection. —P.G. notes of roasted meat, leather and tobacco. It’s a chocolate, leather, spice and baked berry notes. this Lewis Estate bottling. Rich and full-bodied, balance is just about perfect. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. through the long finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 fascinating, elegant wine to drink over the next few Drink through 2017. Palm Bay International. —M.S. with fleshy peach, banana and papaya fruit, its sug- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ar is buoyed by refreshing acidity, and the flavors abv: 14.8% Price: $45 persist generously through a long, satisfying finish. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $20

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 7

BUYINGGUIDE

Ferrari-Carano 2010 Trésor (Sonoma County). Goldschmidt 2010 Yoeman Vineyard Single Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Mirabelle Longboard 2010 Dakine Vineyard Merlot Santa Carolina 2011 Reserva de Familia Caber- 91 Big-time tannins make this blend of all five 91 Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex- 91 (Columbia Valley). Grenache and Syrah are 91 (Russian River Valley). This Merlot, grown 91 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This Cabernet classic varieties tight in character. Under- ander Valley). French oak influence is pronounced the anchors here, with just a splash of Mourvèdre. in prime Pinot Noir country in the northwestern delivers a complete package at an incredibly attrac- Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel neath the astringency are intense flavors of black- in this 100% Cabernet, lending notes of smoky, Lush red fruits, long and balanced, capture a pleas- Russian River Valley, shows bright black cherry, red tive price. Aromas of mocha, graphite and vanilla 91 (Dry Creek Valley). This is so bold and rich, it berries, cherries and currants that are liberally buttered cinnamon toast. Oak is offset by a pow- ing whiff of umami, along with nuances of cured currant and mocha flavors. It’s distinguished by its play nicely with core berry scents. Baked berry, could stop a tsunami of barbacue sauce and a herd oaked. Dry and refined, the wine will develop bottle erful tug of ripe blackberry and black-cherry jam. meat, licorice and sea salt. —P.G. balanced complexity. There’s a mushroom earthi- vanilla and pastry flavors settle softly, with mellow of galloping babyback ribs. They say the age of the complexity after 2018.Cellar Selection. —S.H. Oak and fruit court each other, but haven’t yet con- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ness that adds richness, while the acid-tannin bal- tannins. Drink through 2018. Carolina Wine Brands vines is between 90–110 years. This wine is sheer abv: 14.6% Price: $52 summated the deal. With rich, firm tannins and ance is near perfect. A portion of new oak USA. —M.S. lusciousness, with flavors of wild blackberries, cola balanced acidity, it’s an immature wine than needs brings a touch of smoke. This is Longboard’s best abv: 14.5% Price: $20 and plums, along with a blueberry jam and black time in the cellar. It should be best after 2017.Cel - Merlot since 2006. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. pepper finish. —S.H. lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.6% Price: $85

Fox Run 2011 Riesling 11 Hanging Delta 91 Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fox Run’s Santa Rita 2008 Pehuén Carmenère (Apalta). Geology Series is a remarkable study of Finger Les Belles Collines 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ONX 2011 Reckoning (Paso Robles). There’s 91 With cool, herbal aromas of cola, pine, juni- Lakes terroir and , and the 11 Riesling 91 (Napa Valley). Ripe cherry, blackberry and 91 a crazy mix of grape varieties in this blend— per, fine oak and savory berry fruits, this is a fine Efestē 2010 Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard is a particularly fantastic result. Inoculated using Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Merlot (Co- new oak flavors mark this gorgeous Cabernet. The Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Carmenère. The palate is full, deep and still fresh 91 Syrah (Yakima Valley). The Jolie Bouche is the pied de cuve method, this semisweet Riesling 91 lumbia Valley). This round, rich and spicy es- tannins are strong but refined. Blended with Merlot, Grenache—but each grape brings its own unique after several years in the bottle. Flavors of stewed dark and brambly, packed with blackberry fruit, shows apple and floral notes. A lush, textured pal- tate-grown Merlot greets you with all the right stuff Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it’s a luxurious, el- voice to form a very complex chorus. While any of cherry, baked plum and cassis come with no short- baking spices and a dusting of black pepper. The ate is brimming with apricot and peach flavors. It’s (and stuffing) from the first sniff. Clean berry and egant wine for drinking now and over the next eight them, on its own, might be incomplete, the resulting age of savory support, while the finish is saucy in supple tannins carry a streak of graphite and clean a complex wine layered with minerality, fruit and cherry fruit, with a light touch of peppery herb, rolls years. —S.H. whole is rich, full-bodied, warming and satisfying. taste, with raciness, gravitas and length. Drink earth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. floral tones, and has an exceptionally long finish. into silky tannins and pretty baking spices. A fine abv: 13.5% Price: $65 The alcohol is admittedly high, but the wine carries through 2018. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $39 Editors’ Choice. —A.I. value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. it with style. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 7.8% Price: $40 abv: 13.9% Price: $21 abv: 15.3% Price: $45

Efestē 2010 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red Mountain). 91 Pronounced Kay-lee, this is sourced from Red Glen Carlou 2010 Quartz Stone Single Vine- R&A Pfaffl 2011 Altenberg Reserve St. Laurent Mountain, hence the graphite and grain in the tan- 91 yard (Paarl). Always a ripe and Les Belles Collines 2010 Les Sommets Cab- 91 (Niederösterreich). There is something sub- Silverado 2010 Mt. George Vineyard Cabernet nins. Lush cherry, tobacco and earth flavors com- lush selection, this offers forward aromas of orange 91 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Enormously liminally medicinal about these aromas—the ethe- 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet is a bine, with a whiff of smoke wafting through the oil, pressed yellow flower, pear flesh, oaky spice and Hunnicutt 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). ripe blackberry, cherry jam, cassis liqueur and oak real lift of herbal tinctures alloyed with dark plum guaranteed cellar candidate. It’s enormously rich wine from start to finish. —P.G. a touch of honeycomb. Tropical fruit flavors of pine- 91 Hunnicutt is known as a Cabernet specialist, flavors mark this Cabernet. The tannins are thick, and a generous dash of white pepper. This is not for and extracted, with flavors of blackberries, cur- abv: 14.6% Price: $39 apple, mango and melon lend richness to the palate, but they know Chardonnay too, as evidenced by a but complex, giving the impression of a young wine beginners looking for easy fruit notes, but rather for rants, plums and mocha, but finishes firm, dry and but lively acidity keeps the mouthfeel from feeling string of successes since 2008. The 2012 is a rich, that still needs time in the cellar. Give it until 2017 those who like to converse with their wine. This lay- tannic. Give it at least four more years in a cellar. too round or flabby. Spice and toasted-nut accents rewarding wine. It’s extraordinarily ripe in peach, at the earliest. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ered, compelling and balanced glassful will provide Cellar Selection. —S.H. linger long on the finish. Hess Family Wine Estates. green apple and tropical fruit flavors. The grapes abv: 14.2% Price: $85 food for thought with its finely structured tannins, abv: 14.4% Price: $56 —L.B. were sourced from cool Coombsville and warm medium body and bundles of flavor. Palm Bay Inter- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Rutherford, giving the wine exceptional balance. national. —A.K. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $44 abv: 14.1% Price: $45

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 9

BUYINGGUIDE

Viña el Principal 2008 Memorias (Maipo Val- Boundary Breaks 2011 No. 198 Reserve Ries- 91 ley). Olive and herb aromas suggest juniper 90 ling (Finger Lakes). Another winner amidst Ferrari-Carano 2011 Siena Red Wine (Sono- Spier 2010 21 Gables Pinotage (Stellenbosch). along with baked plum and berry. This is a muscu- Boundary Break’s exciting new lineup of wines, the 90 ma County). Blended with , Katherine Goldschmidt 2011 Crazy Creek Cab- Nelms Road 2012 Merlot (Washington). This is 90 This opens with a dense and intensely aro- lar, saturated blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Car- No. 198 Reserve is exuberantly spicy and floral, with Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a 90 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). All the 90 a fine bottle of Merlot, released under Wood- matic nose, boasting forward oak-derived fragrances menère that offers roasted, savory, saucy berry fla- a beautifully concentrated palate full of ripe peach big, exuberant wine that’s full bodied and fruity. It parts are here to make a good Cabernet. Flavors of ward Canyon’s second label, Nelms Road. Firm black- of vanilla, caramel and sweet spice that are ground- vors in front of a toasty, coffee-driven finish. Drink and tangerine flavors. Brisk and bright with citrus offers ripe flavors of black currants, licorice, mocha chocolate, blackberry jam, cassis and smoky oak are berry and cassis fruit flavors anchor a substantial ed by the black cherry and berry core. Firm tannins through 2020. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. acidity, it finishes elegantly, with hints of jasmine and black pepper, with hints of raisins. It’s luscious framed in rich tannins. But the wine needs a little wine that has accents of smoke, licorice, tar and toast. and a full structure lend power and grip to the palate, abv: 15% Price: $28 tea and honey. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. to drink now. Try with Szechuan beef or grilled pep- time to knit together. Should be drinking well by Delicious! —P.G. with skin-driven fruit flavors of plum, black cherry abv: 8.9% Price: $25 per steak. —S.H. spring 2014. It’s a great value for the price, and easy to abv: 14.1% Price: $25 and currant. Hints of roasted cocoa nib and charred abv: 14.1% Price: $23 find with more than 15,000 cases produced. Editors’ oak show good staying power on the finish, while am- Choice. —S.H. ple final acidity offers a slight lift to the close. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $20 now–2018. Total Wine & More. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

Walla Walla Vintners 2011 Sangiovese (Colum- 91 bia Valley). Balance is what typifies all the latest Walla Walla Vintners’s reds. Here, the grape’s natural herbal highlights are linked to well modu- Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 The Mariner Mer- Peju 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). lated acids and tart rhubarb and berry fruit. Young 90 itage (Dry Creek Valley). This is a lovely Flying Horse Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvig­ 90 A beautiful Cabernet for drinking now, this and full of life and lift, this excellent Sangiovese wine, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, but comprised 90 non (Napa Valley). Oak and ripe fruit com- has softly luscious tannins framing flavors of ripe, el- should continue to improve for up to a decade. Edi- of all five classic Bordeaux varieties. It’s smooth in bine to make this a Cabernet to drink now and over Last Light 2012 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Noir egant blackberry, cherry jam and mocha. There’s an Spier 2010 Creative Block 5 (Coastal Region). tors’ Choice. —P.G. tannins and soft in acidity, with luxurious black the next few years. It’s softly tannic and frankly de- 90 (San Luis Obispo). With zesty acidity, this enticing herbal richness and the finish is sweetly oaky. 90 This Bordeaux-style blend, which includes all abv: 14.2% Price: $25 cherry, blueberry, cassis, plum and new oak flavors. licious, with blackberry, cherry, currant and sweet Pinot shows all the marks of a wine that wants two —S.H. five classic Bordeaux varieties, opens with herbal aro- Drink now–2018. —S.H. oak flavors. —S.H. or three years in the cellar. Right now, it’s delicately abv: 13.8% Price: $50 mas of forest berry, black-currant leaf and tobacco, all abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.2% Price: $65 structured, dry and tart, with cranberry, sour cherry grounded in ripe, fruity tones of blackberry and cas- candy and ripe tomato flavors. A few years in the cellar sis. The palate is concentrated and dense, with a full will bring out a mushroomy earthiness that will make yet firm texture and flavors of black-plum skin, cher- the wine extremely satisfying. —S.H. ry, leather, bittersweet chocolate and anise that carry abv: 13.2% Price: $34 through to the long finish. Total Wine & More. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

Foursight 2011 Charles Vineyard Clone 05 Bella 2010 Lily Hill Estate Zinfandel (Dry 90 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Foursight’s Rodney Strong 2010 Brothers Ridge Cabernet 90 Creek Valley). Blended with a little Petite Ellman Family 2010 Jemma Red Wine (Napa 2011 Pinot, from a very cool vintage, is savory, with 90 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This wine is Sirah, this is fruitier than your average Dry Creek 90 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon comprises mushroom and herb alongside a streak of red cher- 100% Cabernet, sourced from one of the winery’s Zin, with jammy raspberry and cherry flavors. But 95% of the blend, along with 5% Merlot. Sourced ry. Light in color and texture, it’s subtle yet expan- vineyards in a warm part of Alexander Valley. It’s quite it has the variety’s peppery spices and that briary, from the Beckstoffer Georges III vineyard, this wine sive on the palate, with a peppery, juicy finish. It’s Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Reserve Syrah (Red ripe, with flavors of cherry pie, red plum, currants, to- Three Rivers 2012 Steel Chardonnay (Columbia brambly character that suggests freshly picked shows the enormous ripeness and softness that a wine that can be enjoyed now, but put some away 90 Mountain). Penetrating aromas of baking bacco, cola and new French oak. The tannins are lush 90 Valley). Named to reflect the unoaked style, summer berries. Great with Szechuan beef. —S.H. vineyard is known for, with rich, opulent black for a couple of years and the seams will come to- spices, cocoa powder, cassis and black cherry, along and soft, but the wine will develop for many years. with no , this hits the mark abv: 14.6% Price: $40 cherry jam and mocha flavors, balanced by acidity gether even better. —V.B. with a hint of cherry cola, define this reserve. It shows Drink now–2020, at least. —S.H. with good concentration and bright, snappy green and tannins. There’s a lot of new oak. Drink now– abv: 14.2% Price: $49 creamy, mocha-infused flavors that can’t help but ap- abv: 15.5% Price: $75 apple, kiwi and cucumber flavors. There’s a pleasing 2018. —S.H. peal. The time in barrel is dominant here, as the fruit, push through the palate from the juicy acidity, and the abv: 14.8% Price: $79 though ripe enough, falls on the lighter side. —P.G. finish remains focused and on point.Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 11

BUYINGGUIDE

BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Les Belles Collines 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian 89 River Valley). This is an interesting wine for its earthy mushroom and tea flavors accenting a backdrop Lawer Family 2012 Three Coins Betsy’s Vineyard of strawberry jam. In its youth, the wine is dry, tannic 87 Cannon Block Chardonnay (Knights Valley). KWV 2011 Classic Collection Pinotage (Western and acidic, but it may well be an ager; give it six years This Chardonnay is tight and concentrated, with am- 87 Cape). A solid and well-made selection, this Mandolin 2012 Chardonnay (Monterey). This to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ple acidity and flavors of citrus, peach, apricot and Muròla 2012 di Matelica. This greets offers a wide array of characteristics, ranging from 85 is your basic California Chardonnay with oak, abv: 14.3% Price: $45 tropical fruit. There’s a hint of minerality, and the fin- 91 the taster with a heady aromas of yellow spring Santa Carolina 2013 Reserva ripe fruit tones of strawberry, plum and wild berry orange, Meyer lemon and papaya flavors. Produced ish is touched with toast and vanilla. Don’t drink it flowers, as well as whiffs of tropical fruit. The palate 88 (Leyda Valley). Focused aromas of lime and to earthy accents of forest floor, menthol and Thin without malolactic fermentation, the palate is vibrant too cold. —S.H. delivers intense peach, apricot and citrus flavors ac- green herbs are fresh and properly parceled. This Mint. Juicy berry flavors unfold in the medium-weight with acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $26 cented by notes of mineral and brine. Soilair Selec- shows nice acidity and punch, along with green fruit mouth, framed by medium tannins that provide a abv: 13.5% Price: $10 tion. Best Buy. —K.O. and mild bell-pepper flavors. A long, dry, peppery fin- crushed-satin texture. Hints of milk chocolate and abv: 12.5% Price: $14 ish is tasty, like the rest of the wine. Carolina Wine toasted oak dust the lingering close. KWV Int’l. Best Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Buy. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $11

Waterstone 2012 Pinot Gris (Napa Valley). Just 88 a touch of French oak gives this 100% Pinot Gris a soft, toasty creaminess. The fruit veers towards mouthwateringly tart Meyer lemons, nectarines and Mandolin 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For this Asian pears. It’s an elegant, versatile wine to pair with 85 everyday price, you’ll get a delicate, light-­ many different kinds of food.Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Centanni Giacomo 2012 Offida Pecorino. Here’s bodied, dry wine, with bright acidity and subtle cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $18 86 a pert Pecorino, with bright citrus and tropi- and tobacco flavors. Despite the county-wide appella- cal fruit sensations of lemon, tangerine and pineapple. Nodland Cellars 2009 Bad Attitude Red Wine Charles & Charles 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon- tion, the grapes were sourced from vineyards in the A subtle note of flinty mineral on the close jazzes this 90 (Walla Walla Valley). It’s tough to find a Walla 87 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Charles Smith and Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. Best Buy. —S.H. up a bit, but overall this is a simple and enjoyable wine Walla wine at this price with this much concentration Charles Bieler have grabbed a tiger by the tail, ramping abv: 14.5% Price: $10 to enjoy with everyday fare. Jonathan Zeiger. —K.O. and power. In the mouth it has a plush, soft appeal, up their brand while keeping quality high. This blend Beach Kite 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $15 with a lush mix of fruits and generous barrel flavors of perfectly matches two shining stars in the pantheon 86 Fresh, minerally red-fruit aromas set up a chocolate and baking spices. It was aged for two years of Washington grapes, delivering a tasty, accessible, light but good palate. Modest oak and red fruit flavors in a mix of new and used French and American oak. lightly leafy wine, with sassy berry fruit front and cen- are earthy and a bit warm, while the finish is easy, Best Buy. —P.G. ter. Broad, open and delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. clean and fresh. For $7, there’s almost nothing to take abv: 15% Price: $15 abv: 13.6% Price: $12 issue with. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $7

Murphy-Goode 2012 Pinot Noir (California). 87 It’s nice to see veteran winery Murphy-Goode craft its most successful Pinot Noir in at least 15 years. Dry and polished, it’s ready to drink now. The palate Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Single Vine- boasts a soft, silky texture and delicious cranberry and 85 yard Reserve Pinot Noir (Maule Valley). Basic raspberry flavors. With production of 49,000 cases, cherry aromas are fresh but scratchy. A spunky palate it’s easy to find.Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Centanni Giacomo 2012 Rosso di Forca (Rosso carries buttery, fatty oak flavors and generic red-berry abv: 13.5% Price: $15 85 Piceno). A blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% fruit. Vanilla and buttery notes play off modest red- Montelpulciano, this offers berry and mocha aromas Mancura 2011 Guardián Reserva fruit leftovers on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best that come across round and ripe. Raspberry and sour 88 (Maule Valley). Hard spice, fresh-cut oak and KWV 2011 Classic Collection Chardonnay Buy. —M.S. cherry flavors are layered with chocolate and vanilla, dark berry aromas make for a serious, stout bouquet. Gnarly Head 2011 Authentic Red (Lodi). This is 86 (Western Cape). An attractive chalky accent abv: 13% Price: $10 ending quick and clean. Not for ageing; drink soon. This is bright and lively in the mouth, with mouth- 87 a rich, soft, decadent red, with flavors of dark graces the pure fruit aromas of white peach, water- Jonathan Zeiger. —K.O. filling tannins and flavors of boysenberry and vanilla. chocolate, juicy red fruit and a hint of leather. Made melon rind and firm pear. Lightweight and clean, the abv: 13.5% Price: $15 A quick, slightly hot finish is aggressive but sturdy. from Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Petite Sirah palate boasts additional flavors of orange and green MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. and a few other red varieties, this is a wine that will pear, which lend a refreshing feel to the wine. The abv: 14% Price: $10 delight many. Stock up. Best Buy. —V.B. mouthwatering finish offers a subtle hint of fynbos. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 KWV Int’l. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 13

BUYINGGUIDE

Riesling that’s so ripe and full in the mouth, but dry Sipp Mack 2008 Rosacker Grand Cru Riesling Sipp Mack 2010 Rosacker Grand Cru Riesling sive array of flavors while still needing time. Drink wine in development. It has lost its primary fruit Dopff Au Moulin 2012 Riesling (Alsace). in style. It has swathes of fruitiness, a sense of power 92 (Alsace). Now mature, this is fine example 91 (Alsace). Developing well already, this is a from 2015. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Edi- and not yet found its way to maturity. While there 85 A wine that is fruity and aromatic, this is and intense acidity. For such a complex wine it is sur- of aged Riesling. It still shows a steely mineral qual- textured, steely, very mineral wine that has also has tors’ Choice. —R.V. are citrus and green herb flavors, they are overshad- made to drink now. It has a crisp texture, like biting prisingly ready to drink. But waiting would be better, ity contrasted with a complex mix of almonds, herbs, rich stone fruits that give the wine weight and flavor abv: 12.5% Price: $19 owed by a closed, steely edge. Wait a few years, and into a green apple, and acidity that shoots through so hold out until 2016. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. spice and honey. It’s ripe, full bodied and totally ready density. Apples and fennel lend freshness and spice. It drink from 2016. Total Wine & More-Saranty Im- the fruity palate. Screwcap. Heritage Wine Cellars. —R.V. to drink now. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. Editors’ should age longer, so wait to drink until 2015. Classic Léon Manbach 2010 Frankstein Grand Cru ports. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Choice. —R.V. Wine Imports, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 89 Riesling (Alsace). Crisp and very dry, this is abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $27 a floral wine with pure citrus flavors and some lively Domaine François Schmitt 2010 Paradis Pfings­ acidity. It is just turning towards maturity and away Frédéric Mallo 2009 Réserve Spéciale Ries- Klipfel 2011 Cuvée Particulière Riesling (Al- 92 berg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a Willm 2011 Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Riesling Bott Frères 2009 Réserve Personnelle Riesling from its primary fruitiness. Drink now and until 87 ling (Alsace). Already mature, this is a full- 84 sace). This is a soft, rather unfocused wine grand, complex wine, full of ripe apple, dried apricots 92 (Alsace). With great intensity and structure, 90 (Alsace). The Réserve Personnelle line from 2018. Astor Wines. —R.V. bodied, perfumed wine full of stone-fruit and toast that is pleasantly fruity with flavors of apples and and pear skins. It is just beginning to hint at more this is a wine that’s all about texture and potential. It’s Bott Frères decidedly greater intensity than the Tradi- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 notes. It has a bitter almond character that gives the currants. It’s lightly perfumed and ready to drink mature, complex flavors. With great acidity that cuts expressive with white fruits and perfume, but there’s tion range. This Riesling exhibits great fruitiness al- wine an edginess while spice lends a peppery sensa- now. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —R.V. right through the palate, this serious, dense wine will a richness that’s still to come. Drink from 2016 and lied with a very mineral structure and tight acidity. Trimbach 2010 Riesling (Alsace). This is a tion to the palate. Drink now before it fades. USA abv: 12% Price: $15 age well. Drink until 2022. Riahi Selections. Cellar see how the minerality and acidity will come into bal- The wine has a future, so drink now and until 2019. 89 fully mature wine with an attractive mix of Wine Imports. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. ance. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. Esquin Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. fresh acidity and intense perfumes. Bright and crisp abv: 12% Price: $19 Wunsch & Mann 2011 Riesling (Alsace). A abv: 13.5% Price: $34 —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 on the palate, this textured wine finishes with white 82 bitter wine with tart apple and pear flavors, abv: 12% Price: $20 currant flavor. This is ready to drink now. Esprit du Jean-Baptiste Adam 2012 Tradition Riesling this has a hard edge. Drink now. Vintage Wine Mar- Domaine Marcel Deiss 2011 Riesling (Alsace). Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2011 Praelaten- Vin. —R.V. 87 (Alsace). An aromatic wine, this is crisp keting . —R.V. 92 Here is a wine that is slowly developing the Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2010 Schloss- 90 berg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). A serious abv: 12.5% Price: $25 with lively acidity and a tight texture. White cur- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 most beautiful flavors. It is so perfumed with a waft of 91 berg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a rich wine that needs aging, this is full and ripe while also rants and apple skin flavors are supplemented by white flowers that translates onto the palate. It’s bal- and full-flavored wine that still has plenty of aging having a steely edge to it. Very perfumed, floral and Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2010 Ex- lime and grapefruit. Drink now and until 2018. Ar- anced by a firm, steely character and layer upon layer ahead of it. It has a very floral character that is fol- strongly textured, this is an impressive wine that does 88 ception Riesling (Alsace). This is a ripe, del- tisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. GEWURZTRAMINER of acidity. Age this wine and don’t drink before 2017. lowed by green fruit and spice, and sustained by a need extended aging. Drink from 2016. Vigneron Im- icately tropical and fruity wine with rich texture. It abv: 12% Price: $15 Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. Editors’ Choice. tight, steely texture. Drink from 2016. Total Wine & ports. —R.V. is smooth, rounded on the palate, but accompanied Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Laurence —R.V. More-Saranty Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 by a shot of acidity. The lemon aftertaste hints at a Sipp Mack 2011 Tradition Riesling (Alsace). 95 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). For full review see abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $28ne more steely character. Total Wine & More-Saranty 87 This is a wine that is lightly touched with page 3. Cellar Selection. Domaine Ostertag 2011 Vignoble d’E Riesling Imports. —R.V. a mineral texture while also having rich layers of abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Domaine Ostertag 2010 Heissenberg Riesling Dirler-Cadé 2008 Belzbrunnen Riesling (Alsace). 90 (Alsace). From vines around the village of abv: 12.5% Price: $25 acidity and green herbs. It is fragrant, perfumed 92 (Alsace). This is a rich and round wine, full 91 The wannabe Grand Cru of Belzbrunnen has Epfig (“E”), this is a wonderfully pure wine that’s fra- and, on the finish, deliciously light and fruity. Clas- Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Théo Gewurz- in the mouth with a youthful palate. There is a ripe, produced this marvellously mature wine. It’s fully ripe grant and crisp. It has apple and citrus flavors lightly Hubert Meyer 2010 Riesling (Alsace). Al- sic Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V. 93 traminer (Alsace). This is a remarkably spicy creamy texture full of apple and orange flavors that are and shows its perfumed flavors strongly. The acidity blessed by honey. Acidity cuts right through the fruiti- 88 ready showing some maturity, this is a fine- abv: 13% Price: $20 wine that is also finely balanced. It’s sophisticated balanced with an edgy, steely character. This promises is still very present, giving a tight presence to this im- ness, giving the wine a tight and steely aftertaste. Ker- ly perfumed wine, its fruitiness tempered by sec- as well as rich, with spice and lychee flavors lifted good aging so drink until 2022. Kermit Lynch Wine pressive wine. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. mit Lynch Wine Merchant. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. ondary aromas and flavors that bring out herbs and Wolfberger 2012 Riesling (Alsace). This is by a crisp edge of acidity. It’s complex in texture and Merchant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27 an edge of steel. The aftertaste with its juicy acidity, 87 an attractive wine that maintains the steely should age well. Drink from 2015. Vineyard Brands. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $25 is totally refreshing. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Im- texture of Riesling while also bringing out fragrant —R.V. Domaine Ostertag 2010 Fronholz Riesling (Al- ports. Best Buy. —R.V. white flowers and refreshing fruitiness. It has a light abv: 14% Price: $31 Domaine Pfister 2009 Engelberg Grand Cru Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Schlossberg Grand 90 sace). This single vineyard wine has a fine and abv: 12.5% Price: $12 touch of acidity, making it exceptionally adept with 92 Riesling (Alsace). Round, rich and maturing 91 Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a very mineral and fruity character that also has great intensity and fra- food. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. René Muré 2011 Clos Saint-Landelin Vorbourg well, this is a complex, perfumed, honeyed wine. The structured wine. Strong citrus and white peach flavors grance. With a tight and taut texture, the wine is very Wunsch & Mann 2008 Hengst Grand Cru abv: 12% Price: $18 93 Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is apple and quince fruits are now gaining secondary are accompanied by a hint of toast, along with brisk straight, hinting at some toastiness. Drink until 2020. 88 Riesling (Alsace). A wine that is mature al- a very fine wine with sweetness tempered with a notes of almonds and green herbs, lending elegance acidity and a steely texture. It’s a complex combina- Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. ready, this Grand Cru has some weight and richness. Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2011 Riesling great sense of structure and concentration. Lychees and grace. This is a wine that will improve further,so tion that promises aging. Drink from 2018. Weygandt- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 There is a perfumed character and flavors of white 86 (Alsace). Despite its recent vintage, this is dominate the fruit profile but are supplemented drink until 2020. Glass stopper Vintage ’59 Imports. Metzler. —R.V. fruits. The wine has intense acidity that gives it a a wine that is already tasting mature. The palate is with pineapple and pomelo flavors that are sprin- —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaine Pfister 2011 Tradition Riesling (Al- steely, tight character on the finish. Drink now. Vin- layered with secondary flavors touched with floral kled with pepper. It is rich and full in the mouth. It abv: 13.5% Price: $49 90 sace). This is a delicate, deliciously fragrant tage Wine Marketing . —R.V. perfume, intense acidity and a dry aftertaste. It’s needs some more time to age, so drink from 2016. Domaine Charles Baur 2011 Cuvée Charles Ries- Riesling with just the freshest of fruits. Lemon and abv: 12.5% Price: $30 not for aging, so enjoy now. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. Jean-Baptiste Adam 2011 Kaefferkopf Grand 91 ling (Alsace). An aromatic wine with great bright zest notes leave the palate totally refreshed. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $50 92 Cru Vieilles Vignes Riesling (Alsace). Old vines depth, this is complex and concentrated. It brings out Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. Bott Frères 2010 Tradition Riesling (Alsace). and a Grand Cru vineyard have produced an impres- a great tangy, zesty, steely character that has freshness abv: 12.5% Price: $29 87 This is an off-dry Riesling with concentrated Domaine François Schmitt 2012 Riesling Willm 2011 Clos Gaensbroennel Kirchberg sive wine. It is bone dry and very crisp, but also has as well as richness in equal measure. White fruits and acidity softened by a light touch of honey and a deli- 86 (Alsace). This is a delicate, aromatic wine 93 de Barr Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). swathes of dense fruit and texture. It’s very mineral red currants leave a crisp, taut aftertaste. Grape News Gustave Lorentz 2010 Burg Riesling (Alsace). cate floral character. The wine is perfumed, fruity that’s light as a feather. It has crisp citrus flavors From a parcel within the Kirchberg de Barr Grand and steely in style with youthful acidity and pink Importing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 This is a beautifully perfumed wine that’s and ready to drink. Corkscrew Imports. —R.V. along with notes of apricot and berries, along with Cru, this is a structured, serious Gewuztraminer. It grapefruit flavors, but this is a wine to age. Drink from abv: 13% Price: $17 fragrant with white spring blossoms and flavored with abv: 12% Price: $18 a pure line in acidity. The aftertaste is pure refresh- has weight as well as sweetness, but it’s the poten- 2016. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. bright fruit flavors. The palate has remarkable struc- ment. Riahi Selections. —R.V. tial and ageability that is so impressive. Spice and abv: 13.5% Price: $43 Joseph Cattin 2011 Hatschbourg Grand Cru Ries- ture with intense acidity that lends zest and zing, and Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 Anne abv: 12.5% Price: $22 gingerbread notes, as well as fine acidity, lend com- 91 ling (Alsace). Perfumed, and still quite youth- a fine, lively feeling on the finish. Drink until 2020. 87 de K Riesling (Alsace). There is a warm, plexity to the honeyed, yellow fruits. Drink from Rieflé 2009 Steinert Grand Cru Riesling (Al- ful, this is a wine with potential both from its texture Quintessential Wines. —R.V. honeyed edge to this otherwise steely, very crisp Willm 2012 Cuvée Emile Willm Riesling (Al- 2016. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ 92 sace). This is an elegant wine that’s finely bal- and its acidity. There is a strongly chalky, mineral ele- abv: 13.5% Price: $34 wine. It gives richness, counterpointing the delicate 86 sace). This is a perfumed wine that has the Choice. —R.V. anced with acidity and a chalky, steely texture. The ment that lends structure to the aromatic, crisp white citrus and fennel flavors. The wine can age, but is crispest fruit, lively acidity and a light, ethereal abv: 13% Price: $26 wine is delicate, fresh and very perfumed. The acidity fruits. On the finish, the wine has a cool, elegant char- Hubert Meyer 2011 Winzenberg Grand Cru Ries- ready to drink now and until 2020. Total Wine & character that reflects the Riesling well. It could age on the finish lends a highly-strung, tense aftertaste. acter. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 ling (Alsace). Not quite dry, this is an impres- More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. a year, but is ready to drink now. Monsieur Touton Dirler-Cadé 2007 Kessler Grand Cru Gewurz- Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 sively rich wine. It has a strong mineral element that abv: 12% Price: $17 Selection Ltd. —R.V. 92 traminer (Alsace). This is sugary sweet with abv: 12.5% Price: $NA brings out the currant flavors and intense acidity. This abv: 12% Price: $NA a rich spice-cake character, delicate acidity and a is a wine that is still developing, offering an impres- Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2010 Pater- full, comfortable style. It’s an opulent but balanced 87 garten Old Vines Riesling (Alsace). This is a

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 15

BUYINGGUIDE

wine for dessert with a pleasantly astringent, tight af- until 2018. Grape News Importing. Editors’ Choice. ready to drink now. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. own. Drink now. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. with age. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Edi- Bott Frères 2009 Réserve Personnelle Pinot tertaste. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. —R.V. —R.V. —R.V. tors’ Choice. —R.V. 88 Gris (Alsace). On the sweet side, this is a abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $28 soft, fruity, perfumed wine packed with flavors of baked apples, red currants and spiced pears. Bright Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Furstentum Grand Domaines Schlumberger 2011 Les Princes Ab- René Muré 2011 Signature Gewurztraminer Klipfel 2011 Cuvée Particulière Gewurztra- Bott Frères 2009 Gloeckelberg Grand Cru acidity gives it a lift on the finish. It is now ready to 92 Cru Vieilles Vignes Gewurztraminer (Alsace). 89 bés Gewurztraminer (Alsace). With its off dry 87 (Alsace). This is a medium-dry wine that has 85 miner (Alsace). Light and very fresh for a 91 Pinot Gris (Alsace). While this wine does drink. Esquin Imports. —R.V. This is a finely balanced, ripe wine. It is medium character and richly spiced fruit, this is a wine with more spice than sweetness. It is warm and full in the Gewurztraminer, this is a wine with as much crisp have sweetness, its great character comes from its abv: 12.5% Price: $20 sweet and ripe with fruit, but counterpointed with some weight and density. There is a good synergy be- mouth, and accented with a touch of pepper, brisk apple as spice. It’s off dry, laced with acidity and structure and spiciness. It is rich, full in the mouth, taut structure and acidity. It’s ready to drink, but tween the tropical fruit and the dry spiciness. It is acidity and lychee flavors. The wine is rich and ready very ready to drink. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —R.V. ripe and concentrated. Even at four years old, it is Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 Ex- will be better with some aging. Drink until 2020. maturing well, and will be ready to drink at the end of to drink. Screwcap. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 youthful and closed still, and needs some time in 88 ception Pinot Gris (Alsace). There is an at- Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. 2014. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 the cellar. Drink from 2015. Corkscrew Imports. tractive spiciness here, yielding a wine that is warm abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $25 Wunsch & Mann 2011 Gewurztraminer (Al- —R.V. and rich. It has flavors of tropical fruits, lychees and Sipp Mack 2011 Tradition Gewurztraminer (Al- 85 sace). This is an attractive, ripe and spicy abv: 13% Price: $35 rosewater. It’s full bodied, concentrated and dense Joseph Cattin 2011 Hatschbourg Grand Cru Domaine François Schmitt 2012 Cuvée Ma- 87 sace). This is a ripe, sweet wine that has all the wine that is quite ready to drink. There is a strong in texture, but maintains a freshness through the 92 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Dense and opulently 88 rie-France Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This wine exotic flavors of rich Gewurztraminer. It’s rounded, perfumed character that gives weight while the ly- Joseph Cattin 2011 Hatschbourg Grand Cru finish. Drink now. Total Wine & More-Saranty Im- ripe, this is a hugely spicy wine. There is a dry edge is all perfume, an astonishing medley of sweet fruits, smooth and spicy with flavors of tropical fruits and chee and ginger flavors give the wine some sweet- 91 Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a full, perfumed ports. —R.V. to this otherwise sweet wine, bringing out flavors of with lychees dominating. It is totally over the top, but apricots and only a hint of acidity. Drink now. Classic ness. Drink now. Vintage Wine Marketing . —R.V. wine that’s medium sweet in flavor. It is rich in abv: 13.5% Price: $25 almonds and bright acidity. This is a wine to age, so have fun with it now. It’s not likely to age. Riahi Se- Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 spice, packed with honey and lychees, and well bal- drink from 2014. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. lections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 anced with light acidity. The wine has an opulence Domaine Pfister 2011 Tradition Pinot Gris abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Helfrich 2012 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This and a warming aftertaste. Drink until 2022. T. Ed- 88 (Alsace). This is a light, fruity wine that’s Wolfberger 2012 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A 84 is a light, fragrant wine that has just a touch ward Wines Ltd. —R.V. ripe with perfumed quince and tropical fruit fla- Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 Fursten- Frédéric Mallo 2010 Cuvée Saint-Jacques 87 totally over-the-top Gewurztraminer, this is of spice and some fresh acidity. It’s an easy, simple abv: 13% Price: $25 vors. The palate is satisfyingly balanced with tight, 91 tum Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Al- 88 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). With up-front wonderful in its blowsy perfumes. It’s rich, ripe, op- wine that’s very ready to drink, . Advantage Inter- bright acidity. This is wine that is not for aging, and though the sweetness is not indicated on the label, spiciness, this is an attractive, light and fragrant wine. ulent and full of lychee and spiced pear flavors. Drink national. —R.V. Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 ready to drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. this is a medium-dry wine, edging towards the sweeter There is no complexity, just pleasant off-flavors of now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 90 Schlossberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). abv: 13.5% Price: $29 end. It has intense spice, intense perfume, and flavors honey and lychees. Drink now. USA Wine Imports. abv: 13% Price: $17 This is a rich, opulent wine with ripe lychee flavors. of rosewater and tropical fruits. It should age well, so —R.V. Forward and spicy, it is showing its flashy youth at Dopff Au Moulin 2012 Réserve Pinot Gris drink until 2019. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. abv: 13% Price: $20 Wunsch & Mann 2008 Hengst Grand Cru PINOT GRIS the moment. While it will always be ripe in style, as 87 (Alsace). Ripe apples and pears dominate —R.V. 87 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Light gold in color, it develops, it will become more sophisticated and this rich, lightly spicy wine. It has a fresh element abv: 13% Price: $28 Trimbach 2010 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). In- this rose scented wine has a touch of honey and some Domaine Weinbach 2011 Cuvée Ste Catherine complex. Drink until 2022. Total Wine & More-Sa- that contrasts with its richness,yielding a wine 88 tensely rich, this wine is packed with flavors richness. There is dryness as well, bringing out wal- 94 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Characteristically per- ranty Imports. —R.V. with some weight but also delicate poise and step. Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Steingrubler Grand of spice, gingerbread and lychees. It has a full, rounded nuts and an edge of bitterness. This is wine to drink fumed, this Pinot Gris is full bodied with a richness abv: 13% Price: $28 Screwcap. Heritage Wine Cellars. —R.V. 91 Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). There is no mis- character with an intense spiciness that is anchored to now. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V. of texture. It is complex on the palate with notes abv: 13% Price: $NA taking the grape variety of this rich, medium-sweet a more structured texture. Drink now and until 2018. abv: 13% Price: $33 of nuts, spice and an edge of citrus fruit. Age this Kuentz-Bas 2011 Trois Châteaux Pinot Gris wine. It has rosewater and lychee fruit flavors, along Esprit du Vin. —R.V. wine and don’t drink before 2016. Vineyard Brands. 89 (Alsace). This is a rich wine that has flavors Wolfberger 2012 Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is with a touch of vanilla and acidity. It is also a power- abv: 14% Price: $25 Bott Frères 2011 Tradition Gewurztraminer (Al- —R.V. of spice, apricot and almond, along with a touch of 87 an open, soft, warm wine. It has some spice, ful, concentrated wine that will age, so drink now and 86 sace). Very spicy on the nose, this sweet wine abv: 14.5% Price: $47 honey. Rich and full on the palate, it’s a meal in it- although never excessive, along with gentle acidi- until 2020. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Bott Frères 2010 Réserve Personnelle Gewurz- is ripe, full bodied and fruity. It has a floral character self, but finely balanced with intense fruitiness and ty and touches of hazelnuts. There are apricot and abv: 14% Price: $NA 87 traminer (Alsace). A sweet wine that’s soft and that gives complexity as well as a delicious, refreshing Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Kessler Grand light acidity. Drink now. Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- dried banana flavors and a fine, lifted aftertaste.- Ky spicy, this is light, fragrant and surprisingly refreshing aftertaste. Drink now. Corkscrew Imports. —R.V. 93 Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This wine is medium chant. —R.V. sela Père et Fils. —R.V. Domaine Gresser 2011 Kritt Gewurztraminer (Al- for a Gewurztraminer. Bright acidity gives everything abv: 12.5% Price: $20 sweet in style with a rich, complex character. It has abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $20 91 sace). From the stony Kritt vineyard, this is a a lift, adding crispness to rich lychee sweetness. Drink notes of spice and honey that accent ripe peach and concentrated, youthful wine. It combines fresh acidity now. Esquin Imports. —R.V. Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2011 Gewurztra- apricot flavors. The richness of the wine comes from Rieflé 2011 Côte de Rouffach Pinot Gris (Al- Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2011 Anne with fruity richness with a dry, firm character. It’s an abv: 12.5% Price: $21 86 miner (Alsace). This is a surprisingly dry wine it’s dense texture. It is ready to drink now, but will 89 sace). This rich, boldy alcoholic wine has a 86 de K Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a ripe and impressive wine and certainly appropriate for aging that’s all spice and lychee flavors without any hint of also age well. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. pepper character that dominates fragrant fruit and spicy wine that is full of almond and tropical fruit further. Drink from 2015. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2010 Gewurztra- sweetness (not indicated on the label unfortunately). —R.V. spice notes. It should age well, so drink until 2020. flavors. It has a sense of richness and texture, along abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 miner (Alsace). This wine is at just the right It has a light texture with notes of pepper and rose- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. with a kick of pepper. The acidity is a touch light moment of maturity. It’s on the dry side, but with water, along with some acidity on the finish. Vigneron abv: 15% Price: $24 here, but there’s just enough to keep it fresh. Total Klipfel 2009 Clos Zisser Kirchberg de Barr Grand just a touch of rich honey flavor. It is ripe, full in the Imports. —R.V. Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Spiegel Grand Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. 91 Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Certainly sweet, mouth, finely perfumed and ready to drink now. Vign- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 93 Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is a medi- Trimbach 2010 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace). abv: 13% Price: $20 this is a rich wine that is maturing well. It has weight eron Imports. —R.V. um-sweet wine that’s warm and rich due to the rip- 89 This is a rich, full wine that is spiced but re- and spice and a soft, opulent texture. It’s sourced from abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Dopff & Irion 2012 Cuvée René Dopff Gewurz- ening abilities of the Spiegel vineyard. It is spiced, tains remarkable freshness. Crisp citrus and acidity Domaine Charles Baur 2011 Pinot Gris (Al- grapes grown on the steep slopes above the city of 86 traminer (Alsace). This is a gently spicy wine concentrated and full of a smoky character that gives it a fine sweet-and-sour character that min- 86 sace). Medium sweet in style, this is spicy, Barr. Drink now and until 2018. Wein-Bauer Distrib- Dopff Au Moulin 2012 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). with notes of ginger and cinnamon as well as ripe contrasts with its fruitiness. It’s ready to drink now, gles with flavors of warm apricot and lychee fruits. fragrant wine with honeyed lychee and pear flavors. uting. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 87 Characteristically spicy and packed with ly- tropical fruits. It is not a complex wine, but very ap- although it will certainly age well. Drink until 2019. Drink now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. It’s warm and rich with nicely lifted acidity on the abv: 13% Price: $30 chee flavors, this wine has an attractive lightness that proachable even at this stage and touched with some Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 finish. Grape News Importing. —R.V. stops it being too rich. The result is a wine that is fra- acidity on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Domaine Charles Baur 2011 Pfersigberg Grand grant and fruity with a rosewater and pear aftertaste. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Wolfberger 2008 Rangen Grand Cru Pinot 90 Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a sweet, Screwcap. Heritage Wine Cellars. —R.V. Rieflé 2010 Steinert Grand Cru Pinot Gris 89 Gris (Alsace). This is a sweet Pinot Gris Frédéric Mallo 2010 Pinot Gris (Alsace). This very perfumed wine with pleasant candy flavors. Rich abv: 13% Price: $NA Willm 2012 Cuvée Famille Willm Gewurztra- 92 (Alsace). This is a textured wine with ripe that is honeyed and very rich. Light spice notes are 86 is a light and open wine, showing more rosewater and spice notes add complexity, and chalk 86 miner (Alsace). This medium-sweet wine is and perfumed fruitiness. Honeyed in style and me- buoyed by explosive apricot and pineapple flavors, fruitiness characteristic spice of Pinot Gris. It does soils lend a crisp edge that cuts into the opulent char- Hubert Meyer 2011 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). hugely spicy and rich. It has lychee, tropical fruit and dium-sweet on the palate, it’s a complex, rich wine yielding a wine that’s great for capping off a meal. have almond and green herb flavors, along with a acter of the wine. It could age, not for long, so drink 87 Very perfumed in style, this is classic Gewurz- vanilla flavors, yielding a wine that is a meal on its that’s ready to drink now, but could also improve Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. touch of pepper and bitterness. Drink now. USA traminer. It is full of candy shop flavors and slight- abv: 12.5% Price: $32 Wine Imports. —R.V. ly blowsy. It doesn’t take itself too seriously, and it’s abv: 12.5% Price: $17

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 17

BUYINGGUIDE

Jean-Baptiste Adam 2012 Tradition Pinot Dopff & Irion 2012 Cuvée René Dopff Pinot wine with more structure than fruit. It has pear Domaine Pfister 2010 Cuvée 8 (Alsace). A Cave de Hunawihr 2011 Sushi Sélection (Al- and the rich texture dominate the palate. Drink now 86 Gris (Alsace). This is a softly spicy wine that 86 Blanc (Alsace). This is typical — skin and quince flavors with some bitterness that 92 blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztra- 83 sace). This is an easy, light and fragrant and until 2020. Vigneron Imports. Editors’ Choice. is understated and light. With its brisk acidity and its warm, fruity and soft with just a touch of spice. distracts on the finish. Riahi Selections. —R.V. miner and , this is a wine that fascinates. wine that seems destined to accompany fish. It has —R.V. flavors of citrus and lychee, it is an easy, gentle wine The wine has an attractive line of acidity from its abv: 12% Price: $17 Both fresh and rich, this wine combines strongly a touch of spice from the Pinot Gris and Sylvaner abv: 12.5% Price: $34/500 ml that is ready to drink now. Artisan Vines Distrib- pear flavors, making it balanced and ready to drink. perfumed notes with a pure, steely texture. It is in the blend, along with a creamy, light aftertaste. uting. —R.V. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. drinkable now, although it will be better in three Solstars Inc. —R.V. Rieflé 2010 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Ven­ abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $16 MUSCAT years’ time. Glass stopper Vintage ’59 Imports. Cel- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 92 danges Tardives Pinot Gris (Alsace). Richly lar Selection. —R.V. sweet, this is a wine that has traded primary fruit- Gustave Lorentz 2012 Réserve Pinot Gris Jean-Baptiste Adam 2012 Tradition Pinot Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2011 Muscat (Al- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 iness with deliciously balanced honey flavor and 84 (Alsace). Just lightly spicy, this is a simple, 86 Blanc (Alsace). Just lightly peppery, this 88 sace). This is a perfumed wine with fresh LATE- WINES lively citrus acidity. It’s a wine that has richness, gentle wine. It is on the dry side, and hints at apple is a rounded, smooth wine. It has a creamy texture honey and herb flavors. Dry in style, it’s delicate Clément Klur 2011 Gentil de Katz (Alsace). intense flavor and the ability to age further. Mari- and pear flavors. There’s a light acidity on the finish. with baked apple and spiced pear flavor. The acidity and nuanced with floral notes and attractive acidity. 87 There is an attractive smoky character René Muré 2007 Clos Saint Landelain Vor- time Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. Screwcap. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. is just right, with juiciness on the finish. Drink now. Give it a few more months in bottle to show its best. to this round and warm wine. Perfumes from the 94 bourg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives Gewurz- abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. Gewurztraminer in the blend are combined with traminer (Alsace). Although certainly sweet, this abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 delicious fresh citrus and apple flavors. It’s a young wine is much more than that. Alongside the honey Willm 2007 Sélection de Grains Nobles Willm 2012 Cuvée Famille Willm Pinot Gris wine, to be drunk young. A.I. Selections. —R.V. and syrup flavors are intensely bright pineapple fla- 92 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The ultimate in 84 (Alsace). Just off dry, this is a ripe and Wolfberger 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). S o ft Joseph Cattin 2011 Hatschbourg Grand Cru abv: 13% Price: $19 vors and lively acidity. It’s the balance of this wine spice and sweetness, this unctuous, full-bodied full-bodied wine that’s balanced with acidity. 86 and ripe, this is an attractive, light and fra- 88 Muscat (Alsace). Medium sweet, this is that is so impressive, with all the elements properly wine has developed a beautifully, smooth, honeyed Touched with delicate spice, it has an attractive, grant wine. There is a good strand of acidity that a rich, delicious, delicately perfumed wine. It has Dirler-Cadé 2011 Edelzwicker Réserve (Al- in place. Drink now and until 2020. Robert Kacher texture that envelops and balms the palate. Yellow open feel that makes it very drinkable now. Mon- runs through the wine, giving a counterpoint to the notes of candy and spice, along with floral notes, ac- 86 sace). An attractive blend in which Pinot Selections. —R.V. fruits are delicate in background, along with a touch sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. apple and spice flavors. Drink now. Kysela Père et cented with lively acidity. It’s not a wine to age, so Blanc seems to dominate, this wine is delicately abv: 12.5% Price: $57/500 ml of acidity. It’s a wine to drink now. Monsieur Touton abv: 13% Price: $23 Fils. —R.V. drink until 2018. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. creamy in texture with lively acidity and ripe apple Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $35 and pear flavors. This is a wine to drink now. APS Rieflé 2011 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Sélection abv: 12% Price: $33/500 ml Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 93 de Grains Nobles Riesling (Alsace). This is a PINOT BLANC Dopff Au Moulin 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Kuentz-Bas 2011 Trois Châteaux Muscat abv: 12.5% Price: $14 very young wine with a long life ahead of it. It’s the Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2009 Sélec- 85 This is a fruity, light wine. It has apple fla- 88 (Alsace). This is an intensely aromatic dry ultimate Alsace combination of botrytis and Ries- 91 tion de Grains Nobles Gewurztraminer (Al- Domaine Ostertag 2011 Barriques Pinot vors, enlivened by acidity and zesty citrus character. wine. It has ripe fruit, a very floral character and Dopff & Irion 2012 Crustacés (Alsace). As its ling. Brisk acidity and steely structure combine with sace). Unctuous texture is the telltale sign of quality 88 Blanc (Alsace). Aged in wood, this is an On the finish, the wine is fresh while also creamy. only light acidity. This is a classically perfumed 85 name suggests, this wine is meant to go with flavors of ripe honey and dried apricots to yield an in a rich, sweet, botrytized wine. This wine has unusual style of Pinot Blanc for Alsace. The toast Heritage Wine Cellars. —R.V. Muscat, delicious as an apéritif or with asparagus. shellfish. Light and fruity, it’s perfect background impressive wine. Drink from 2016. Maritime Wine traded the spice of a Gewurztraminer with a palate flavors are subtle, leaving plenty of room for fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. wine to highlight a variety of foods. Fresh acidity, Trading Collective. Cellar Selection. —R.V. full of honey and delicate lemon acidity. It is a fine, fruits, light acidity and creamy texture. It’s ready to abv: 13% Price: $NA citrus and delicate apple notes are enjoyable. Drey- abv: 14% Price: $45/500 ml complex wine that is developing well. Drink until drink. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Gustave Lorentz 2012 Réserve Pinot Blanc fus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 2020. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 85 (Alsace). This is a wine with that’s crisp abv: 12% Price: $11 Rieflé 2011 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Vendanges abv: 12.5% Price: $53/500 ml and delicately fruity with flavors of red apples and AUXERROIS 93 Tardives Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Hugely Domaine Weinbach 2011 Réserve Pinot Blanc pear skins. It’s a fresh, bright wine with a soft af- La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2012 perfumed, this is a ripe, very rich wine with stacks Joseph Cattin 2009 Vendanges Tardive Pinot 88 (Alsace). This is a subtle, rich wine that ex- tertaste for enjoying now. Screwcap. Quintessential Léon Manbach 2011 Auxerrois (Alsace). The 85 Black Tie (Alsace). This is a blend of Pinot of flavor piled upon each other. It’s a naturally op- 91 Gris (Alsace). Although the producer in- udes creamy apple and quince flavors. It has a touch Wines. —R.V. 88 Auxerrois is a sadly neglected grape. It pro- Gris and Riesling that melds the spice of the former ulent wine, that’s sweet with tropical fruits and dicates that this is a medium-sweet wine, it does of peppery spice as well as pristine fruit acidity, abv: 12.5% Price: $19 duces delicious wine with a touch of pepper and with the steeliness of the latter. The result is a wine honey in equal measure. It is very ready to drink, seem to be sweeter than that. The concentration of along with a touch of crispness on the finish. It’s lively acidity. This is a good example, refreshing and with lively acidity, touches of pepper and a crisp, but will also age well, so drink until 2021. Maritime berry, raisin and dried apricot flavors, and the lay- a wine to drink now and over the next 4–5 years. Sipp Mack 2011 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Dry ready to drink. Astor Wines. —R.V. light-hearted aftertaste. Screwcap. Serge Doré Se- Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. ers of honey accentuate the sweetness. It’s a wine to Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 85 and soft, this is a warm, creamy Pinot Blanc. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA lections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45 be drunk now, although it will age well until 2020. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 It has pear and quince flavors, a touch of spice and abv: 13% Price: $NA T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. delicate acidity. It is rich on the palate and ripe Rieflé 2011 Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru Vendang- abv: 14% Price: $35 Domaine Pfister 2011 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). and ready to drink now. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. WHITE BLENDS Wolfberger 2011 Edelzwicker (Alsace). Just 93 es Tardives Pinot Gris (Alsace). Gold in col- 87 A delicately fruity, fresh wine, this is very —R.V. 85 off dry, this is a smooth, attractively fruity or and unctuously sweet, this is a dense wine. The Willm 2008 Vendanges Tardives Gewurztra- refreshing with its crisp acidity and citrus flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Domaine Marcel Deiss 2011 Blanc (Alsace). wine that has a light touch of perfume. The acid- sweetness is cut with a dry edge and some fresh 91 miner (Alsace). This is a seriously sweet, gor- It’s linear in focus with a lively, light aftertaste. It’s 94 This wine is made from a mix of 13 different ity keeps the freshness level up, producing a wine acidity. It tastes delicious now with flavors of wild geously opulent wine made from late-harvest fruit. ready to drink. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. Dirler-Cadé 2011 Réserve Pinot Blanc (Al- grape varieties in a field blend. It’s a totally terroir that’s easy to drink now. Screwcap. Kysela Père et honey and apricot skins, but it will certainly age Spice notes fringe flavors of honey and fresh fruit. abv: 12% Price: $23 84 sace). This fruity wine balances citrus and driven wine, full of mineral and gritty textures in its Fils. —R.V. well. Drink until 2024. Maritime Wine Trading Col- It’s a wine to drink now, although it will age well ripe white fruits. There is a steely edge that lends youth. Behind this structure is a wild range of fla- abv: 11.5% Price: $15/1 L lective. —R.V. until 2020. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. Trimbach 2010 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Soft, freshness and structure, and suggests the wine vors—spice, apples, pears and apricots—waiting to abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $38 87 fruity and rich, this is a classicly warm, ripe could age well. The aftertaste has some tight citrus show through. It needs to age, so drink from 2016. Dopff & Irion 2011 Gentil (Alsace). This is a Pinot Blanc. With delicate flavors of apples, crushed acidity. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. Editors’ Choice. 84 simple, soft wine which has some sweetness Trimbach 2007 Vendanges Tardives Gewurz- Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2010 Vendange pear and touches of citrus acidity, it’s a deliciously abv: 12.5% Price: $16 —R.V. as well as easy fruit. There is some perfume and a 93 traminer (Alsace). Sweet and rich, this is a 90 Tardive Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a refreshing wine to drink now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 spicy edge as well as rounded orange flavor. Drink wine that combines honey with a touch of toast and richly honeyed wine that has flavors of spice cake abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2011 Pinot Blanc now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. smokiness. The mid palate is filled with apricot and and sweet fruits that are balanced with a taut, firm 84 (Alsace). This is a particularly creamy wine Domaine Marcel Deiss 2007 Rotenberg abv: 12.5% Price: $20 fresh lemon flavors. There is a fine acidity on the texture. The wine is ripe, but has a delicate touch Domaine Charles Baur 2011 Pinot Blanc (Al- that’s ripe and fruity with only a light touch of acid- 94 White (Alsace). Developing a golden color, finish that gives a delicious lift. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. that makes it very attractive. Drink now. Vigneron 86 sace). Very smooth and very creamy, this is ity. It has a soft feel with notes of creamed apples this is already a beautifully mature wine with some Willm 2012 Gentil (Alsace). Not quite dry, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Imports. —R.V. a lightly spicy, pear flavored wine. It has only light that makes it a wine to drink now. Vigneron Im- sweetness and ripe flavors of yellow fruits and lem- 84 this is a creamy apple-flavored wine. It abv: 12.5% Price: $34 acidity, compensated for by the perfumed, ripe ports. —R.V. on. There’s also a touch of honey and spice to this is fresh, fruity and immediately attractive, with a Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2008 Sélection fruit. Drink now. Grape News Importing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 blend of Pinot Gris and Riesling. It’s ready to drink. light, fragrant aftertaste. Drink now. Monsieur Tou- 92 de Grains Nobles Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2009 Vendange abv: 13% Price: $14 Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. ton Selection Ltd. —R.V. Now gold in color, this is an opulent, finely made 90 Tardive Riesling (Alsace). Notes of almonds Domaine François Schmitt 2012 Pinot Blanc abv: 12.5% Price: $45 abv: 12% Price: $12 wine. With acidity transmuted into a memory of and sweet fruit combine with steely acidity in this 84 (Alsace). For a Pinot Blanc, this is a firm fresh fruit, it shows hints of its maturity. Honey wine. It has both a bright, fresh character and hon-

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 19

BUYINGGUIDE

eyed smoothness. It is still quite youthful and could pleasant hint of oxidation, as well as spice and ripe now and enjoy its lightly perfumed aftertaste. wine, and a soft mousse on the finish. Wein-Bauer edge that shows some bottle maturity, and contrasts being light and fresh. Drink now. Classic Wine Im- age well for 3–4 years. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. apple flavors. It is rich with a forward, bright, fruity Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Distributing. —R.V. with the tense, tight acidity. Vigneron Imports. ports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $34 character. A.I. Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $21 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $21 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2009 Late Willm NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). With Wolfberger NV Rosé Brut (Crémant d’Al- Clément Klur 2011 Pinot Noir (Alsace). 89 Harvest Pinot Gris (Alsace). More than just Jean-Baptiste Adam NV Brut (Crémant d’Al- 87 just a touch of bitterness and structure, this 86 sace). This is a bright and fruity, red-fruit Rieflé NV Bonheur Festif Brut (Crémant d’Al- 85 Bright, ripe strawberry and cherry flavors rich and sweet, this wine shows intense, complex 88 sace). Citrus and apple flavors dominate is a finely textured wine. It has plenty of fresh red flavored wine. It has a touch of tannins to give some 82 sace). This is intense with are contrasted with the firm tannins of wood aging. flavors. It is full of ripe lychee and spice flavors, and this tight, mineral, crisp wine. It has a refreshing and white fruit flavors, a lively, busy mousse and a texture, along with bright acidity and a crisp after- startling acidity and very crisp citrus palate. Maybe This is a very young wine, with layers of acidity, boasts a rich, creamy texture with a finish that hints feel with acidity that’s well integrated into the tight acidity on the finish. Monsieur Touton Selec- taste. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. a few months in bottle will soften it. Maritime Wine spice and toast. Drink from 2016. A.I. Selections. of dryness. It is maturing well and already ready to fruitiness, as well as a light texture. Drink now. Ar- tion Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $22 Trading Collective. —R.V. —R.V. drink, but it will also hold for several more years. tisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $30 Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $18 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg NV Rosé abv: 13.5% Price: $48 Bott Frères NV Rosé Brut (Crémant d’Al- 85 Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Strawberry flavor Hubert Meyer 2009 Pinot Noir (Alsace). This Joseph Cattin NV Brut Cattin (Crémant d’Al- 86 sace). Fresh and fruity, this is a refreshing, dominates this light and crisp wine. With its brisk ROSÉS 85 is a subtly wood-aged Pinot Noir that show- Joseph Cattin 2009 Vendanges Tardives 88 sace). Cattin has a speciality with sparkling lively rosé. It is dry with strawberry flavors and a acidity and slightly herbal character, it’s fresh edg- cases cherry flavors alongside a funky, barnyard 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). As a Gewurztra- wines and this is a good, fruity example. It has a crisp acidity on the finish. Drink now. Esquin Im- ing towards green. Total Wine & More-Saranty Im- Gustave Lorentz 2012 Le Rosé (Alsace). This character. It is still fruity, but maturing, with aro- miner becomes sweeter, it loses some of its spice. lively, creamy mousse with apple and citrus flavors ports. —R.V. ports. —R.V. 85 Pinot Noir rosé has raspberry flavor soft- mas that come from autumn leaves. H.Mercer Wine What it gains, as here, is a more intense, honeyed that come through strongly and cleanly. It’s ready to abv: 12% Price: $22 abv: 11.5% Price: $20 ened with a touch of caramel and given structure by & Spirit Imports. —R.V. and fragrant character that also allows space for drink. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. light tannins. The wine has a ripe feel, down to the abv: 12.5% Price: $17 acidity. There is some dryness on the finish, as well abv: 12% Price: $20 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg NV Blanc Domaine Charles Baur NV Brut (Crémant warm acidity on the finish. Quintessential Wines. as a pleasant astringency. Drink until 2019. T. Ed- 86 de Blancs Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Fruity 85 d’Alsace). There is a touch of bitterness in —R.V. Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2010 Ex- ward Wines Ltd. —R.V. Klipfel NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). This and fresh, this is a delicate apéritif style of Crémant. this wine, giving it an edgy character. There is plen- abv: 12% Price: $20 84 ception Pinot Noir (Alsace). Light in col- abv: 14% Price: $35 88 is a ripe and fruity wine that’s deliciously It has light acidity along with touches of almonds ty of fruitiness with notes of apple skin and lem- or and with considerable acidity, this wine boasts fresh and fragrant. It has a lively, creamy texture and a light spiciness. They go well with the ripe on flavors that are bright and fresh. It needs a few La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2012 cherry fruits along with a dry texture and spice. It is with apple juice flavors and a touch of nuttiness. red-apple and orange zest flavors. Total Wine & months in bottle to fully integrate. French Country 83 Rosé (Alsace). This is a Pinot Noir rosé that not for aging. Total Wine & More-Saranty Imports. CRÉMANT D’ALSACE Wein-Bauer Distributing. —R.V. More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. is very light and dry. The acidity is strikingly high —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $18 leaving an impression of sharpness. Serge Doré Se- abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Domaine Pfister NV Blanc de Blancs Brut lections. —R.V. 90 (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a fine, fragrant Wolfberger NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Domaine Allimant-Laugner NV Brut Domaine Gresser NV Brut (Crémant d’Al- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA wine that is fresh and very fruity. It has a good bal- 88 This is a really fruity, really refreshing spar- 86 (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a smooth, ripe 85 sace). There are some rough edges here, as FRANCE ance of green and white fruits, a refreshing layer of kling wine. It boasts apple, citrus and a touch of wine with a creamy mousse and soft, rich apple fla- well as a touch of bitterness. The quince and spiced acidity and a touch of toast. It’s a great apéritif. Vin- apricot flavors, as well as tight acidity. It is fragrant, vor. It has a slight bitterness from its recent bottling apple flavors are crisp and fresh with a peppery PINOT NOIR PROVENCE tage ’59 Imports. —R.V. pure and clean, and very fresh on the finish. Kysela and does need to age a while before drinking. Vign- character. The wine that is very dry and firm on the abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Père et Fils. —R.V. eron Imports. —R.V. finish. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Joseph Cattin 2010 Steinbach Pinot Noir (Al- BANDOL REDS abv: 12% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 90 sace). Steinbach is a village at the extreme Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Eclipse Crémant southern end of the Alsace vineyard, known for Domaine de la Bégude 2010 Bandol. Gener- 90 Blanc Brut Nature (Crémant d’Alsace). Cave de Hunawihr NV Calixte Rosé Brut Gustave Lorentz NV Brut Rosé (Crémant Dopff Au Moulin NV Cuvée Julien Brut its Pinot Noir. This is a rich, full example—a wine 94 ous and opulent, this is a wine that has both Whether it’s the biodynamic vineyard or the ripe- 87 (Crémant d’Alsace). This light pink wine 86 d’Alsace). This is an attractively fruity 85 (Crémant d’Alsace). Dopff au Moulin is that has structure and concentration, as well as fine perfume and ripe black-fruit flavors. There is a ness of the fruit, this is certainly a rich, full-bodied is warm, ripe and red-fruit flavored. It is soft and wine with a twist of orange red berry flavors. There something of a specialist for sparkling Crémant ripe cherry fruitiness. It can be drunk now, or until deliciously juicy element to the wine, yet it’s bal- wine. It’s fruity and forward, although it’s structure creamy with just the right amount of acidity. There’s is a light structure of tannins from the fruit skins, d’Alsace. This wine has some bottle age that gives 2022. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. anced with ample acidity. With its attractive, herbal and minerality lendimpressive character. The after- a refreshing, light aftertaste. Solstars Inc. —R.V. giving a dry edge that makes this particularly good the palate a touch of toast and nuts over fragrant abv: 14% Price: $35 edge, this is a wine that can age. Drink from 2016. taste is fruity, fresh and bone dry. Superb Wine In- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 with food. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. fruit. There is a crisp, refreshing character to this Kysela Père et Fils. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ternational LLC. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $28 wine, making it best as an apéritif. Heritage Wine Rieflé 2011 Côte de Rouffach Pinot Noir (Al- abv: NA Price: $43 abv: 13% Price: $17 Domaine François Schmitt NV Blanc de Noirs Cellars. —R.V. 90 sace). The weight of the bottle seems to 87 Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). There is definite Hubert Meyer NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). abv: 12% Price: $NA foretell this wine’s weight, structure and judicious- Domaine Sorin 2010 Bandol. This is a finely Willm NV Blanc de Noirs Brut (Crémant d’Al- structure to this wine, with its tight acidity and dry, 86 White peach and spice notes billow aro- ly layered oak influence. With ripe cherry and berry 94 perfumed, elegant wine. It has a dark struc- 90 sace). This is a deliciously ripe, full-bodied apple skin and pear flavors. There is also a touch of matically in this soft, creamy textured wine. There Hubert Meyer NV Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Al- flavors, it’s a wine that can age. Drink from 2015. ture with a touch of wood, remarkable fruit con- wine with all the red berry fruits, orange zest and spice that gives the wine a unique twist. Drink now. is attractive acidity along with a touch of honey 85 sace). Cherry and wild strawberry flavors Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. centration and dusty tannins that hang suspended acidity that you could want. It’s finely made with Riahi Selections. —R.V. that softens and rounds out the acidity. It’s ready to dominate this fruity wine. It is very fresh with in- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 within blackberry flavor. It’s a wine with great po- a creamy mousse and a fresh and fruity aftertaste. abv: 12% Price: $29 drink, although it will age well in the bottle. H.Mer- tense acidity and a crisp aftertaste. A few months tential—drink from 2016. Grape Expectations (CA). Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. cer Wine & Spirit Imports. —R.V. more in bottle would help it soften. H.Mercer Wine Rieflé 2011 Bonheur Convivial Pinot Noir (Al- Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA Domaine François Schmitt NV Rosé Brut abv: 12.5% Price: $13 & Spirit Imports. —R.V. 87 sace). This is a red that shows some rich- abv: NA Price: $NA 87 (Crémant d’Alsace). Very pale in color, this abv: 12.5% Price: $14 ness— ripe cherry flavor, as well as good layer of Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg NV Ex- spice and red-fruit flavored wine is refreshing and Jean-Baptiste Adam NV Brut Rosé (Crémant tannins. There is a juicy character to the wine that Domaine Tempier 2011 La Tourtine (Bandol). 89 ception Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). The wine crisp. It’s a light wine, cut through by acidity and 86 d’Alsace). This is a particularly fruity rosé Willm NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). A fine is balanced by the smoky flavors from wood aging. 94 The initial impression of this wine is lean has mature, ripe, tropical fruit and flavors, as well floral undertones. Drink this attractive wine now. that’s not quite dry but very fresh and full of straw- 85 and creamy mousse gives this wine a pal- Drink now and until 2018. Maritime Wine Trading and austere. Lively acidity and a firm, dark, magnif- as rich acidity and a smooth, toasty edge. It is a Riahi Selections. —R.V. berry flavors. It is fresh, ripe and ready to drink even ate that’s smooth and full of fruit and spice flavors. Collective. —R.V. icent structure brings out intense flavors of plum full-bodied, complex wine that’s full of acidity. abv: 12% Price: $28 in the winter. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. It has some freshness, but it is the richness that abv: 13.3% Price: $17 skins. It needs several years in the bottle to show This is a food friendly sparkling wine. Total Wine & abv: 12% Price: $20 is most obvious. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. its best. Drink from 2018. Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- More-Saranty Imports. —R.V. Gustave Lorentz NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). —R.V. Sipp Mack 2011 Tradition Pinot Noir (Alsace). chant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $28 87 This is a delicious, ripe and fruity wine. It Klipfel NV Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Alsace). abv: 12% Price: $NA 87 With bitter cherry flavor and a light touch abv: NA Price: $62 has all the right characters of freshness, a creamy 86 This is a ripe wine with sugared strawberry of tannin, this is a fruity, spicy wine. It has a cool Clément Klur NV La Crémant de Clément Brut mousse and tight, zingy acidity. It’s a wine to drink flavor. There is ample acidity to balance this fresh Domaine Allimant-Laugner NV Rosé Brut climate feel of acidity and tight texture, while also Chateau de Pibarnon 2011 Bandol. This is a 88 (Crémant d’Alsace). Made without any add- 84 (Crémant d’Alsace). This is a curious, soapy 93 firmly structured wine that balances taut- ed sulphur, this sparkling wine shows maturity, a wine with considerable bitterness. There is a toasty ness and minerality with ripe berry and plum fla-

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 21

BUYINGGUIDE

vors. There is remarkable power and potential in and dense on the palate, there’s a fine herbal ele- ing the acidity and juicy red fruits. The finish brings Domaine Dupuy de Lôme 2011 Bandol. Gamy full of red fruits, lavender and herbes de Provence. The finish is fresh and crisp. Drink from 2014. GOS this solid wine. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. gance. Drink from 2017. Brooklyn Wine Exchange. out the richness of the vintage. —R.V. 88 aromas give this wine a rustic character. This wine should not be drunk before 2015. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA The wine has a fruity style that is open and relative- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA ly light. Wines & Beyond Import. —R.V. Château Sainte-Anne 2006 Bandol. This is Château Vannières 2009 Bandol. Aromas abv: NA Price: $NA Mas de la Dame 2010 Coin Caché (Les Baux Château Romanin 2011 La Chapelle (Les 93 a wine that preserves its freshness well. A Domaine de la Tour du Bon 2011 Bandol. This 90 of raisins, tar and violet give this wine an 92 de Provence). This is a solid, darkly tannic 86 Baux de Provence). This is a light, fresh touch of wood appears on the nose, fragrant and 92 densely textured wine is packed with dark exotic character. It is very dense, structured and Domaine Sorin 2011 Bandol. Very perfumed, wine balanced with black fruits and brisk acidity. It wine that shows attractive acidity while also offer- perfumed in character. It has a delicious, mature tannins and concentrated fruit. With its firm struc- packed with dry tannins. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit 88 this wine is exotic and rich with fruit, but is a powerful and concentrated wine, solidly struc- ing some firm tannins. It has a crisp edge, but not a feel that makes it ready to drink. Jamminess on the ture, weighty black fruit flavors and intense acidity Imports. —R.V. also remarkably dry. Drink from 2017. Grape Expec- tured and full of fruit, but it needs to age. Don’t great amount of depth, and will probably be ready to finish lends weight and density. Chartrand Imports. on the finish, it will age well. Drink from 2017. Ker- abv: NA Price: $NA tations (CA). —R.V. drink before 2016. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. drink soon. Arborway Imports. —R.V. —R.V. mit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine de Frégate 2010 Bandol. Delicate 90 tannins accent this complex and rich wine. Mas de la Rouvière 2007 Bandol. The wine Mas de Gourgonnier 2011 Les Baux de Provence. Mas Sainte Berthe 2009 Louis David (Les Domaine de l’Hermitage 2010 Bandol. Big, Domaine de Val d’Arenc 2011 Bandol. Dense It has fine acidity along with a juicy black-fruit el- 88 has flavors of juicy, but maturing fruit that 91 This dry, perfumed wine is layered with firm 86 Baux de Provence). A fruity, fragrant wine, 93 full bodied and concentrated, this is a ripe, 92 and structured, this is a wine with good po- ement. It’s a wine with weight and firm structure are tinged with bitter, lean tannins that lend struc- tannins mingled with prune and black plum flavors. this has good acidity and bright flavors of raspber- rich wine. Ripe plum flavors are balanced with tential. It has weight, concentrated tannins and ripe that should be enjoyed from 2017. JF Wine Imports. ture and character. The wine finishes with an at- The wine is structured and dense with a solid base ries, plums and loganberries. It is more fruity than nervy acidity and dense tannins. This is a wine that fruit, as well as a solid, full-bodied feel. The palate —R.V. tractive acidity. Chicago Wine Merchant. —R.V. of dryness that demands aging. Drink from 2016. structured and should be drunk now. —R.V. will still need to age, so don’t drink before 2017. Ide- is marked with power, a fine mineral texture and abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Vintner Select. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA al Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. great acidity on the finish. Drink from 2017. Vintage abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: NA Price: $NA Imports, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine du Gros Nore 2011 Bandol. This Chateau de Pibarnon 2010 Bandol. Hints of abv: NA Price: $NA 90 wine has intense acidity and a profoundly 87 reduction and gamy characteristics need Mas de la Dame 2009 La Stèle (Les Baux de AIX-EN-PROVENCE REDS Domaine la Bastide Blanche 2011 Bandol. mineral character. Rich black-fruit flavors and firm time to blow off, but slowly reveal elegant black 91 Provence). This wine is still youthful, but 93 A wine that is structured and dominated Domaine de la Garenne 2011 Bandol. This tannins give it a sense of potential for the future. fruit. The texture and structure are solid, so enjoy solidly structured, dense and concentrated. It’s dry Château de Calavon 2009 La Réserve (Co- at this stage by its tannins. The potential is there, 91 darkly tannic, firm wine is very concentrated Drink from 2016. Eric Solomon Selections. —R.V. this wine until 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. in style but laden with fruits that have only begun 93 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Solid, ripe, per- showing in the rich, supporting fruit and berry in character. Black fruit flavors show through, yield- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $45 to show through. Give this impressive wine several fumed and tannic, this is a concentrated, dark wine. flavors that come through as the wine opens up. ing a wine with weight and the potential to age well. more years in the cellar. Drink from 2016. Esprit du Hints of mint and wood frame rich black fruits on Drink this wine with its good potential from 2017. The finish is marked by rich berry flavors and bright Domaine la Bastide Blanche 2011 Fontanéou Château Sainte-Anne 2011 Bandol. This Vin. —R.V. the palate. It is a powerful wine with a good future, Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V. acidity. Drink from 2016. Bandol Wines Inc. —R.V. 90 (Bandol). This beautifully perfumed wine 86 wine has fruity red-berry flavors as well abv: 15% Price: $31 so drink from 2015. A Tres Vite. Cellar Selection. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA is a fine mix of herb and black-fruit flavors. It has as a curiously perfumed acetone note. This is not —R.V. richness, density and a fine, crisp streak of acidity. a wine for long-term aging so enjoy now. Chartrand Domaine de la Vallongue 2010 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Domaine la Bastide Blanche 2010 Bandol. Domaine de Terrebrune 2010 Bandol. This Drink after 2015. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. 90 (Les Baux de Provence). While firmly tannic 93 This is a perfumed, structured wine that is 91 wine is concentrated with ripe, juicy fruit abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA and structured, this wine shows youth with its con- Château Vignelaure 2007 Coteaux d’Aix-en- showing both tannins and fruit well. While ripe and along with brisk acidity and a delicious sense of centrated fresh berry flavors and bright acidity. The 93 Provence. With its ripe acidity, this is a wine full of black fruits, it’s also bright with acidity. It is Southern French herbs. The wine has weight as Domaine Tempier 2011 Bandol. This is a Domaine le Galantin 2010 Bandol. This is dry core promises a long-term future, so don’t drink that is ready to drink. It shows strong Cabernet just beginning to develop, with a dark, tarry texture well, giving it fine aging potential. Drink from 2016. 90 wine with fine acidity, red berry flavor and 85 a gamy wine that shows ripe fruit with a before 2016. Garagiste Wine. —R.V. Sauvignon ripeness, with a structure that is now that lingers on the finish. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. a mineral texture. Fresh, ethereally light and fra- barnyard accent. It’s quite full and forward with red abv: 14% Price: $25 soft and generous, along with cushioned tannins abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA grant in character, it should drink well from 2015. berry flavors, bright acidity and a sense of structure. and an opulent feel. This is a wine to savor. Blue Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. VOS Selections. —R.V. Mas de la Dame 2011 Cuvée Gourmande (Les Coast International. —R.V. Domaine le Galantin 2011 Bandol. Full bod- Domaine le Galantin 2006 Bandol. This is a abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $25 90 Baux de Provence). Solid and firmly tannic, abv: 14% Price: $30 93 ied and rich, this is already showing its style 91 delicious wine that’s ready to drink while this is a wine with forward red-fruit flavors, a dry and concentration. It is big and powerful with dark keeping a good sense of its austere structure. It has Domaine de Frégate 2009 Bandol. This is core and dense texture. The structure of this bal- Château Paradis 2010 Terre des Anges (Co- black fruits that show through strongly. The acidity weight, richness and a juicy black-fruit character. 89 a ripe, full-bodied wine, packed with black LES BAUX DE PROVENCE REDS anced wine along with its concentration promise 92 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Firm and tannic and the dense structure promise good aging. Drink The finish is bright with acidity. Not for aging. VOS berries, sweet tannins and a generous acidity. The aging. Drink from 2016. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. in structure, this is a wine for aging. Ripe, dark from 2016. VOS Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. wine has weight along with an open character that Mas de la Dame 2011 Réserve du Mas (Les abv: 14.5% Price: $16 fruits add power and a density of texture. Drink abv: NA Price: $26 abv: NA Price: $36 is already appealing. Drink from 2015. JF Wine Im- 93 Baux de Provence). This is an impressive, from 2016. Bob Bofman Selections. Editors’ Choice. ports. —R.V. rich, smooth wine. Generous and opulent in style, Château Romanin 2006 Les Baux de —R.V. Château de Pibarnon 2008 Bandol. This is Mas de la Rouvière 2009 Bandol. Spicy, new abv: NA Price: $NA it has weight and firm tannins along with concen- 88 Provence. Now mature, this is a wine with abv: 14.5% Price: $20 92 an elegant and stylish wine that’s full of 91 wood aromas dominate this firm and struc- trated black fruits. Brisk acidity and a dry finishing weight and richness. It shows concentration in its lively acidity, red berry fruitiness and soft tannins. tured wine. It has weight and a density that comes Domaine de la Tour du Bon 2010 Bandol. touch lend elegance. Drink from 2016. Cellar Selec- juicy, but maturing, fruit flavors. The wine has lay- Château la Coste 2010 Les Pentes Douces The wine is well integrated, with just a touch of both from the wood and ripe fruits. Big and solid, it 89 This wine introduces itself with intense tion. —R.V. ers of tannin still, so could age well for a few years 91 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). The wine has gaminess and bright acidity on the finish. It is ready has a fine red berry aftertaste. Chicago Wine Mer- acidity and freshness, opening the palate to red ber- abv: 15% Price: $NA more. Arborway Imports. —R.V. considerable acidity that comes from the balance to drink. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. chant. —R.V. ry flavors and tannins that are integrating well. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $NA of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in the wine. Bold abv: NA Price: $40 abv: NA Price: $NA a wine for medium-term aging. Drink from 2015. Château d’Estoublon 2009 Cuvée Mogador in tannins and complex in fruit flavors, it’s a wine Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. 92 (Les Baux de Provence). Perfumed with mint Mas Sainte Berthe 2011 Tradition (Les Baux that will develop slowly and well. Drink from 2016. Château Salettes 2011 Bandol. Structured Moulin des Costes 2009 Bandol. Fresh and abv: NA Price: $35 and eucalyptus aromas, this is a magnificent dry 88 de Provence). This rich, generous wine has Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. 92 and firm, this is a tight wine with power- 91 full of ripe fruit, this is an attractive, gener- wine. While concentrated with juicy black plums forward red-fruit flavors laced with acidity, soft abv: 14% Price: $NA ful, youthful acidity as well as a dense structure ous wine. It’s taut with tannins but elegant with an Domaine de l’Hermitage 2009 L’Oratoire and berries, it still needs time, so don’t drink before tannins and hints of wood. This is a wine for ag- and dark tannins. It has weight as well, indicating herbal edge and a juicy aftertaste. It will be ready 88 (Bandol). Ripe and opulent, this is a gen- 2015. GOS Wines. —R.V. ing so drink from 2015. Russell Herman Selection. Château Paradis 2010 Coteaux d’Aix-en- a wine with excellent aging potential. Drink from to drink from 2015. Chicago Wine Merchant. —R.V. erous wine that’s slightly gamy in character. Acidity abv: 14.5% Price: $NA —R.V. 91 Provence. This is a wine with good wood 2016. Jeff Wellburn Selections, Regal Wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA streaks through the midpalate. This already attrac- abv: NA Price: $18 aging, a delicious perfumed character and firm tan- abv: NA Price: $40 tive wine is ready to drink. Ideal Wine and Spirits Mas de Gourgonnier 2010 Réserve du Mas nins. It has weight and richness, with spicy Syrah Chateau de Pibarnon 2009 Bandol. While Co. Inc. —R.V. 92 (Les Baux de Provence). This is a perfumed Château d’Estoublon 2009 Les Baux de lending an exotic feel to the wine. Drink from 2016. Domaine Castell Reynoard 2011 Bandol. Tan- 90 the wine is a touch gamy, it also has a ripe, abv: NA Price: $NA wine that has immediately attractive herbal aromas. 87 Provence. This is a juicy, fruity wine that Bob Bofman Selections. —R.V. 92 nic and structured, this is a firm wine that fruity character. There is a touch of wood, underlin- It is warm, ripe and full bodied with a dense texture balances concentrated red-fruit flavors with ele- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA shows ripe black fruit at the core. While it’s bodied gant herbal notes and a delicately acidic structure.

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 23

BUYINGGUIDE

Château de Beaupré 2010 Collection du Châ- some juicy acidity hinting at its potential. Drink Pievalta 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi flowers and spice, along with tropical fruit notes. 90 teau (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is from 2015. Planet Wine. —R.V. WHITE WINES CENTRAL ITALY 90 Classico Superiore. Made from grapes grown The palate shows nice depth, offering juicy peach, an attractive, perfumed wine that has good wood abv: 13.5% Price: $17 with certified biodynamic viticultural practices, pineapple and tangerine notes alongside spice and aging, firm tannins and a solid structure. Dark berry Domaine de la Vallongue 2012 Garrigues (Les WHITE WINES this delicious wine opens with floral and citrus aro- dried herb sensations. August Wine Group. —K.O. fruits show through the texture, lending a ripe and Commanderie de la Bargemone 2009 Cuvée 87 Baux de Provence). This is a fruity and fresh mas. The lush yet reserved palate offers mouthwa- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2015. Planet Wine. Edi- 87 Marina (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This wine with a warm, herbal feel characteristic of VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI tering peach, lemon-lime and sea salt flavors, along tors’ Choice. —R.V. wine is rich with smooth tannins that meld into Provence. The palate boasts apricot and delicate cit- with mineral and almond notes. A white with real Marotti Campi 2012 Luzano (Verdicchio dei abv: 14% Price: $22 fresh red-fruit flavors. It’s a juicy wine with a crisp, rus flavors with a hint of minerality. It has a fresh, JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE character and depth. Vignaioli Selection. Editors’ 89 Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s acidic finish. Drink now. Hand Picked Selections. perfumed aftertaste. Garagiste Wine. —R.V. Choice. —K.O. a nice expression that opens with typical Château de Calavon 2010 Tradition (Co- —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Bucci 2009 Riserva Villa Bucci (Verdicchio abv: 12.5% Price: $19 aromas of Spanish broom, chamomile and hay. The 90 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a rich and abv: 13.5% Price: $26 94 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). From bright palate delivers crisp green apple, citrus and perfumed wine that is solid with dusty tannins and Mas de la Dame 2012 La Stèle (Les Baux Verdicchio’s leading producer, this is the wine that Umani Ronchi 2011 Casal di Serra Vecchie ripe white peach, followed by a bitter almond note ripe fruit. Bold acidity adds balance and promises Domaine d’Eole 2011 Coteaux d’Aix-en- 86 de Provence). This citrus flavored wine is started the denomination’s renaissance into Italy’s 90 Vigne (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classi- on the finish. Villa Italia. —K.O. good aging. It is quite dry with fruit hiding behind 86 Provence. Touched by wood, this is a warm fruity and crisp with bright acidity and just a hint of premier white. The ’09 is beautiful, with an intense co Superiore). Here’s a polished Verdicchio made abv: 13.5% Price: $16 all the structure, but it will soften, so drink from wine with soft plum flavors and light tannins. It herbal character. The wine is light, bright and ready perfume of yellow flowers and stone fruits. The pal- from 40-year-old vines. It opens with an attractive 2016. A Tres Vite. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. could age well for 4–5 years, but is ready to drink to drink. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. ate delivers concentrated peach, apricot and creamy bouquet of Spanish broom and acacia flower, along Moncaro 2012 Verde Ca’ Ruptae (Verdicchio abv: 14% Price: $20 now. Free Run Partners, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 lemon flavors, layered with mineral and spice ac- with hints of citrus and mineral. The palate deliv- 89 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s abv: 14% Price: $NA cents. It already has stunning depth, but hold for ers generous peach and apricot flavors accented by a lovely Verdicchio with an alluring floral fragrance Commanderie de la Bargemone 2009 Cu- Mas de la Dame 2010 Coin Caché (Vin de Pays more complexity. Drink through 2024. Empson energizing mineral notes. Hold a few years for more of acacia and hints of Spanish broom and sea breeze. 90 vée Elisabeth (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Gassier 2011 Château Beaulieu (Coteaux 91 des Alpilles). This is a full-bodied and rich (USA) Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. complexity. Bedford International. —K.O. The palate shows peach, citrus and pineapple fla- Strong, spicy and tannic, this blend of Syrah and 86 d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a firm and tan- wine with touches of vanilla and toast from wood abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 vors, along with notes of dried Mediterranean herbs Cabernet Sauvignon gives both structure and rich- nic wine that is still young. It has rich red-fruit aging that are integrated into flavors of ripe apricot, and brine. Hold for 2–3 years to develop complexity. ness. The wine is concentrated and dense at this flavors and a solid structure that holds down the lime and herbs. Drink now, and until 2019. Esprit Garofoli 2006 Selezione Gioacchino Garofoli Vignamato 2012 Versiano (Verdicchio dei International Cellars. —K.O. stage, still needing time to age. Drink from 2014. natural juiciness of the fruit. It does need to age, so du Vin. —R.V. 91 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Supe- 90 Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Opening abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. drink after 2015. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 riore). Already seven years old when tasted, this with an alluring fragrance of acacia flower, Spanish abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 stunning wine demonstrates the aging potential of broom and beeswax, this boasts fleshy peach and Sartarelli 2012 Tralivio (Verdicchio dei Cas- top Verdicchios. It has a layered fragrance of dried juicy pineapple flavors, along with mineral notes 89 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This attrac- Domaine d’Eole 2008 Léa (Coteaux d’Aix- Domaine de la Grande Séouve 2006 Saint- ROSÉS acacia flower, broom and beeswax, while the palate and a drop of honey. It has lovely depth and should tive wine opens with Verdicchio’s typical aromas of 90 en-Provence). This is a perfumed wine with 85 Aix (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Very ma- delivers a lovely depth of flavors that recall ripe yel- evolve more complexity over the next 2–3 years. Spanish broom and stone fruit, as well as a whiff Syrah’s delicious acidity as well as firm tannins. It ture and soft in structure, this is a wine that needs Domaine de la Vallongue 2012 La Garrigues low peach, lemon drop, tangerine and sage, with a Specialty Wine Co. —K.O. of flint. The palate offers creamy ripe peach, citrus is concentrated with ripe black fruits, but ready to to be drunk now. It has some richness, a dry edge 89 Rosé (Les Baux de Provence). Petrol aromas hint of honey on the close. Laird & Company. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18 and pineapple flavors, along with hints of salinity drink now and until 2018. Free Run Partners, LLC. and some attractive acidity, but it is not a wine that lead to a wine that has ripe fruits balanced by in- abv: 14% Price: $45 and minerality that are brightened by fresh acidity. —R.V. will improve. ANW Distributors. —R.V. tense acidity and delicious freshness. The palate is Accadia 2011 Cantorì (Verdicchio dei Castelli Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $18 marked with flavors of almonds and red fruits with Umani Ronchi 2012 Casal di Serra (Verdicchio 89 di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens with abv: 14% Price: $17 a crisp, bright aftertaste. Garagiste Wine. —R.V. 91 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Notes an alluring fragrance of Spanish broom, wild flowers Château de Calavon 2009 Cuvée Château Domaine de Sulauze 2012 Liane (Coteaux abv: NA Price: $20 of hawthorne, acacia and tropical fruit open this and a whiff of sea breeze. The palate delivers creamy Tenuta di Tavignano 2012 Misco (Verdicchio 89 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a full, 85 d’Aix-en-Provence). The wine is very fresh quintessential expression of Verdicchio. The fresh, white peach, juicy pineapple and lemon accented by 89 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This luscious and fruity wine, where the tannins linger and fruity with lively red-berry flavors balanced Mas de Gourgonnier 2012 Rosé (Les Baux de juicy palate is loaded with pineapple, creamy white hints of saline and mineral. It’s still fresh and should lovely Verdicchio opens with an alluring fragrance behind the fruit profile. It has good weight, con- delicately with light tannins and acidity. It’s re- 88 Provence). This is a lively, ripe, fruity wine peach and lemon custard flavors, accented by hints develop more complexity. Drink now through 2015. of white spring flowers, Spanish broom and a whiff centration, and delicate of wood aging. It should be freshing with a red currant aftertaste. Polaner Se- that has both richness and freshness in equal mea- of balsamic herbs and ocean-like salinity. Energiz- Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. of sea breeze. The creamy palate delivers white aged longer before drinking, so wait until 2016. A lections. —R.V. sure. The wine is warm, but with delicate fruitiness ing mineral adds to the depth. Hold for 2–3 years to abv: 14.5% Price: $22 peach, tropical fruit and lemon notes, all brightened Tres Vite. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 from crisp red fruit. Drink this wine soon. Vintner develop complexity or enjoy now for the fruit purity. by crisp acidity and mineral accents. de Grazia Im- abv: 14% Price: $25 Select. —R.V. Bedford International. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Garofoli 2011 Podium (Verdicchio dei Castelli ports LLC. —K.O. Domaine de Sulauze 2012 Les Amis (Coteaux abv: NA Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 89 di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens with abv: 14% Price: $18 Château Vignelaure 2008 Coteaux d’Aix-en- 84 d’Aix-en-Provence). Young and fruity, this lovely floral aromas accompanied by pure fruit sen- 89 Provence. While forward and still fruity, is a wine without wood aging. The palate is full of Mas de la Dame 2012 Rosé (Les Baux de Bucci 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Clas- sations. The palate offers ripe yellow peach, lemon-­ Brunori 2012 San Nicolò (Verdicchio dei Cas- this wine is maturing quite well. It shows soft tan- bright red fruits, light tannins and an attractive 87 Provence). This fresh wine is all bright red 90 sico Superiore. This classic bottling opens lime and almond notes. This can be enjoyed now 88 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This pret- nins and secondary flavors that are replacing the acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Polaner Selec- fruits marked with citrus acidity and a raspberry with enticing floral aromas of Spanish broom, aca- or held for a few years to develop more complexity. ty wine offers a fragrance of hawthorne, Spanish primary fruit character. Very ready to drink now. tions. —R.V. jelly finish. The wine is finely balanced, bright and cia and a whiff of flint. The palate delivers succulent Laird & Company. —K.O. broom and a touch of tropical fruit. The palate de- Blue Coast International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 dancing in style, and needs to be drunk now. Esprit yellow peach, citrus and almond along with mineral abv: 14.5% Price: $25 livers apricot, peach and citrus flavors that are en- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 du Vin. —R.V. notes. It boasts impeccable balance and nice length. ergized by steely mineral notes and bright acidity. Commanderie de la Bargemone 2010 abv: NA Price: $16 Empson (USA) Ltd. —K.O. La Staffa 2011 Rincrocca (Verdicchio dei Cas- It has a crisp, quenching finish. Sussex Wine Mer- Château Calissanne 2009 Clos Victoire (Co- 83 Bargemone (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). abv: 13.5% Price: $22 89 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This attrac- chants. —K.O. 88 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This wine melds This wine lacks freshness, although it does have Mas Sainte Berthe 2012 Passe-Rose Rosé tive wine opens with unusual but enticing aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $17 firm tannins with fruit that is ripe, concnetrated some attractive red berry flavors. Firm tannins and 86 (Les Baux de Provence). Open and ripe, the Montecappone 2012 Federico II A.D. 1194 of spring flowers, dill and thyme. The palate offers and juicy. Brisk acidity brings the elements togeth- wood aging notes give the wine a drying aftertaste. wine has red fruits and warm tannins. Caramel and 90 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Su- lemon peel, lime, apricot and almond alongside Colonnara 2012 Cuprese (Verdicchio dei Cas- er, producing a wine that is full bodied and with Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. vanilla flavors lend a richness to the wine. Russell periore). Named after the King of Sweden who bright acidity. It will actually benefit with a little 88 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This bright good potential. Drink now and until 2020. Petit abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Herman Selection. —R.V. was born in Jesi in 1194, this elegant expression of more bottle age to develop depth and complexity. wine opens with an intensely floral fragrance of Pois. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18 Verdicchio opens with a bouquet of dried Spanish Drink 2015–2018. Classica. —K.O. yellow rose and chamomile. The palate offers juicy abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaine de Sulauze 2011 Lauze (Coteaux broom, sage and stone fruit. The palate offers peach, abv: 14% Price: $18 peach, tangerine peel and green apple flavors along- 82 d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a strangely lemon zest and tropical fruit flavors alongside sa- side crisp acidity. It closes on a bitter almond note. Château de Beaupré 2010 Cuvée du Château chemical wine that has overripe fruit. It misses out vory saline and almond notes, all supported by vi- Marchetti 2012 Tenuta del Cavaliere (Verdic- —K.O. 87 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Dry and firm- on initial acidity and fruitiness. Polaner Selections. brant acidity. Salvia Imports. —K.O. 89 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ly tannic, this is a powerful and complex wine that —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 Here’s a classic rendition of Central Italy’s premier will age well. It has solid fruit, a good structure and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 white wine. It has a lovely fragrance of yellow spring

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 25

BUYINGGUIDE

Garofoli 2012 Macrina (Verdicchio dei Cas- Santa Barbara 2012 Le Vaglie (Verdicchio dei Monte Schiavo 2010 Riserva Le Giuncare (Ver- linear palate offers peach and citrus flavors as well Colonnara NV Luigi Ghislieri (Verdicchio dei 88 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s an at- VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI 89 Castelli di Jesi Classico). This opens with 87 dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This wine as a bitter almond and saline accent. The vibrant 88 Castelli di Jesi). This delightful sparkler tractive wine that offers a floral fragrance of Span- intense fragrances of peach and apricot that carry opens with sensations of yellow spring flowers and acidity leaves the mouth refreshed. Augusta Wine shows the versatility of the Verdicchio grape. A met- ish broom. It’s bright and enjoyable, with yellow JESI CLASSICO over to the palate alongside a juicy lemon flavor. a whiff of citrus. The linear palate offers lemon zest Co. Best Buy. —K.O. odo classico, it has bright and delicious apple, trop- peach and apricot flavors that are punctuated by It also boasts mouthwatering salinity and mineral and tart apple flavors, framed by racy acidity. Siena abv: 12.5% Price: $10 ical fruit and citrus flavors, with a walnut note on hints of savory brine and mineral. The firm struc- Andrea Felici 2010 Riserva Il Cantico della Fig- sensations and, while it’s delicious now, hold for Imports, L’Amore di Vino. —K.O. the finish. It’s enjoyable now and the silky mousse ture is balanced by weightless texture. Laird & Com- 91 ura (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). 2–3 years to develop additional dimensions of fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Santa Barbara 2011 Riserva Stefano Anto- makes this extra drinkable. Zig Zagando. —K.O. pany. —K.O. This opens with a heady floral fragrance of haw- vor. Solstars Inc. —K.O. 86 nucci (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $15 thorne and Spanish broom, with a whiff of stone abv: 13% Price: $25 Vicari 2012 Del Pozzo Buono (Verdicchio dei This internationally-styled Verdicchio opens with fruit. It has delicious flavors of creamy peach, lemon 87 Castelli di Jesi Classico). This attractive wine aromas of oak, butterscotch and vanilla. The palate Santa Barbara 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli Tenuta di Tavignano 2012 Villa Torre (Verdic- and mineral alongside Verdicchio’s unique salinity. Umani Ronchi 2010 Riserva Plenio (Verdic- opens with intensely floral aromas of white spring is also dominated by wood sensations, along with 88 di Jesi. Here’s a charming wine that opens 88 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Peter/Warren Selections, Augustan Wine Imports. 89 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Aged partly flowers accented by whiffs of stone fruit. It has a notes of apple, butterscotch and lemon peel in the with delicate floral aromas of white flowers and This opens up with a heady fragrance of apricot and —K.O. in oak, this firmly structured wine opens with lovely linear palate, with juicy flavors of peach and lem- background. Solstars Inc. —K.O. stone fruits. The palate offers banana, pineapple Spanish broom. The palate offers fleshy peach and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 aromas of Spanish broom, hawthorne and tropical on alongside crisp, refreshing acidity. Southport abv: 13.5% Price: $35 and creamy white-peach flavors alongside fresh- juicy lemon flavors, along with notes of pineapple fruit, as well as a whiff of toasted oak. The palate Wines. —K.O. ening acidity. It finishes on a bitter almond note. and almond that support the wine’s bright acidity. Andrea Felici 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di delivers concentrated flavors of peach, lemon peel abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Tenuta di Tavignano 2010 Riserva Misco Downey Selections. —K.O. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. 90 Jesi Classico. Here’s a delicious Verdicchio and apple layered with cinnamon-spice. Bedford In- 86 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $14 that opens with a floral fragrance of Spanish broom ternational. —K.O. Vignamato 2008 Riserva Ambrosia (Verdic- opens with aromas of vanilla, lemon peel and cut and stone fruit. The savory palate delivers creamy abv: 14% Price: $35 87 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This wine grass that all carry over to the palate alongside fla- Conte Leopardi 2012 Castelverde (Verdicchio Monte Schiavo 2012 Pallio di San Floriano white peach, apple and lemon flavors alongside opens with aromas of oak, butterscotch and dill that vors of lime juice and mineral. While it has an abun- 87 dei Castelli di Jesi). This opens with lemon, 87 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Supe- mineral and saline accents. The finish boasts an Brunori 2012 Le Gemme (Verdicchio dei carry over to the palate alongside flavors of vanilla, dance of freshness and racy acidity, it’s also a bit lime and tropical fruit aromas that carry over to the riore). This opens with pretty floral aromas of white almond note. Hold for two or three years to devel- 88 Castelli di Jesi Classico). Here’s a delicious lemon zest and apricot. This would be a nice alter- lean. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. palate alongside flavors of yellow apples, citrus and peach and juicy pineapple accompanied by salini- op complexity. Peter/Warren Selections, Augustan and structured white that opens with an intensely native for fans of oaked Chardonnay. Specialty Wine abv: 14% Price: $24 peach. It’s linear, with freshening acidity and a dry- ty and dried sage notes. Siena Imports, L’Amore di Wine Imports. —K.O. floral fragrance of hawthorne and Spanish broom. Co. —K.O. ing finish. Pair it with lightly seasoned seafood. Acid Vino. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $21 The palate delivers flavors of fleshy white peach, abv: 15% Price: $22 Accadia 2012 Consono (Verdicchio dei Castel- Inc Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 apple and pear, along with a bitter almond note. 85 li di Jesi Classico). This unusual expression abv: NA Price: $19 Cantina Ma.Ri.Ca. 2009 Riserva Aurato The creamy fruit is brightened by crisp acidity that Cantina Ma.Ri.Ca. 2012 Tregaso (Verdicchio opens with aromas of butterscotch, vanilla, apple Sartarelli 2011 Balciana (Verdicchio dei Cas- 90 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This leaves a clean finish. Worldwide Cellars, Sussex 86 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This charm- and white flower. The palate offers restrained peach Conti di Buscareto 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli 87 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens savory Verdicchio offers freshness and fleshy Merchants. —K.O. ing wine opens with an alluring floral fragrance of and lemon-peel flavors, with a slightly bitter and 87 di Jesi. This opens with a delicate and entic- with aromas of butterscotch, lemon cream pie and flavors of creamy white peach, lemon and tropi- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Spanish broom and hawthorne. The palate delivers buttery finish. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. ing fragrance of white and yellow flowers, hay and ripe stone fruit. The palate starts off with rich apri- cal fruit, all accented by mineral notes. The round flavors of juicy peach and lemon zest, with a savory abv: 12% Price: $13 beeswax. The palate delvers flavors of golden ap- cot, apple and peach flavors, but it has a very warm structure is brightened by crisp acidity that leaves a Montecappone 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli salinity that recalls the seaside. Pair this with pasta ple, peach and lemon, with an almond accent. The palate that’s dominated by evident alcohol sensa- cleansing finish. Simply Stated Wines. —K.O. 88 di Jesi Classico. This opens with floral aro- topped with clam sauce. Simply Stated Wines. Best Fazi Battaglia 2012 Titulus (Verdicchio smooth, weightless texture is brightened by fresh tions. It finishes on a bitter almond note. Massanois abv: 15% Price: $22 mas that recall white spring flowers while the pal- Buy. —K.O. 85 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). In its iconic acidity. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. Imports. —K.O. ate offers peach, apple and citrus notes, along with abv: 13% Price: $11 amphora-­shaped bottle, this opens with pretty aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 15% Price: $25 La Staffa 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi hints of mineral and sea salt. It’s bright and crisp on mas of white and yellow roses. The palate offers up 90 Classico. Here’s a quintessential Verdicchio the close. Salvia Bianca Imports. —K.O. Colonnara 2012 Lyricus (Verdicchio dei a forward lemon flavor, with a hint of almond and Conti di Buscareto 2008 Ammazzaconte Accadia 2012 Conscio (Verdicchio dei Castel- from one of the denomination’s rising stars that abv: 12.5% Price: $14 86 Castelli di Jesi Classico). This bright and refreshing acidity. Perfect to wash down shellfish. 87 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). This Verdic- 86 li di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s a wine opens with a fragrance of spring flowers, hay and easy-drinking wine opens with delicate floral aro- Winebow. —K.O. chio opens with floral aromas of Spanish broom and that opens with aromas of tropical fruit and a hint flint. The palate delivers fleshy white peach, pear Pievalta 2010 Riserva San Paolo (Verdicchio mas of acacia and Spanish broom. The linear palate abv: 12.5% Price: $12 acacia, along with a hint of petroleum that recalls of butterscotch. The one dimensional palate offers and almond flavors, along with mineral notes and 88 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Made from or- offers notes of lemon zest and peach alongside racy Riesling. The linear palate is a bit lean but offers up restrained peach, citrus and apple, along with a dry- bright acidity that results in a refreshing finish. Fun ganically-farmed grapes, this structured Verdicchio acidity that leaves a refreshing finish. Simple but lemon, bitter almond and mineral notes alongside ing note of bitter almond on the finish. Montcalm to drink now or hold 2–3 years for additional com- has staying power. It opens with textbook aromas of well-made. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI bright acidity. Zig Zagando. —K.O. Wine Importers. —K.O. plexity. Classica. Best Buy. —K.O. yellow spring flowers, lemon and flint. The palate abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $12 delivers notes of peach, apricot and aromatic herbs, Santa Barbara 2009 Tardivo Ma Non Tardo all restrained by vibrant acidity. This is still young, Fazi Battaglia 2010 Riserva San Sisto (Ver- 91 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). Here’s a de- Pievalta 2011 Passito (Verdicchio dei Castelli Cantina Ma.Ri.Ca. 2012 Tosius (Verdicchio Marotti Campi 2010 Riserva Salmariano so drink from 2015–2018 when it’s more developed. 86 dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This licious late-harvested Verdicchio that offers an in- 87 di Jesi). Made from organically farmed Ver- 86 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Here’s 90 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. wine opens with subdued floral and citrus aromas tense bouquet of yellow rose and tropical fruit. The dicchio, this opens with apricot, pe- a straightforward Verdicchio offering a floral fra- lovely Verdicchio has the wine’s trademark floral abv: 13.5% Price: $25 that carry over to the palate alongside evident oak palate delivers juicy pineapple and fleshy peach fla- can, tangerine and honey aromas that carry over to grance of acacia and wild flowers, along with light fragrance of broom and acacia flowers, along with sensations and lime. While it boasts racy acidity, vors, with hints of Mediterranean herbs, clove and the syrupy palate alongside citrus, tangerine and spice notes. The palate provides peach, lemon zest a whiff of beeswax. The rich palate boasts creamy Casalfarneto 2010 Riserva Crisio (Verdicchio the fruit is already starting to fade. Winebow. —K.O. nutmeg. This boasts lovely depth and complexity. almond flavors. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. and bitter almond sensations alongside bright acid- apple, yellow peach and tropical fruit flavors ac- 87 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This opens with abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Drink through 2017. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml ity. Simply Stated Wines. —K.O. companied by energizing mineral notes and crisp a floral fragrance that recalls yellow spring flowers abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $14 acidity. Villa Italia. —K.O. and exotic fruit. The linear palate offers restrained Marchetti 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Velenosi 2009 Querciantica (Verdicchio dei abv: 14% Price: $20 Golden Delicious apple and lemon zest notes, along 86 Classico. Here’s a bright and enjoyable wine Fattoria Laila 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di 86 Castelli di Jesi). This straightforward Ver- Casalfarneto 2012 Fontevecchia (Verdic- with a mineral accent. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. that opens with aromas of yellow flowers and a hint 89 Jesi. Here’s a Verdicchio that shows off the dicchio opens with subdued aromas of stone fruit 86 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Montecappone 2012 Riserva Utopia (Ver- abv: 13% Price: $30 of tropical fruit. The palate offers one dimensional grape’s quintessential aromas of yellow spring flow- and citrus. The palate is a bit lean but offers lem- Here’s a straightforward and enjoyable wine that 90 dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Here’s a apple and peach flavors, with crisp acidity. Simple ers and whiffs of stone fruit. It offers creamy peach on and peach flavors. Bright and simple, with racy opens with intense aromas of citrus and cut grass. firmly structured and suave Verdicchio that boasts Lucchetti 2012 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi yet well made and refreshing. August Wine Group. and lemon flavors alongside hints of sea salt and acidity, this will pair well with light seafood dishes. The palate offers racy acidity and lemon-lime notes alluring aromas of yellow flower, tropical fruit and 87 Classico. Here’s a pretty Verdicchio with the —K.O. almond. Crisp, refreshing acidity leaves the palate Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. alongside peach, pineapple and almond flavors. apricot. The juicy palate offers up flavors of ripe grape’s classic fragrance of white flowers and stone abv: 12.5% Price: $12 feeling cleansed. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. white peach, citrus and slightly bitter almond. The fruit. The linear palate offers lemon, apple, white —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $15 rich flavors are freshened by crisp, cleansing acidity. peach and mineral flavors alongside bright acidity Piersanti 2012 Raphael (Verdicchio dei abv: 13% Price: $10 Fattoria Laila 2010 Lailum Bianco (Verdic- Enjoy now or hold until 2016 for more complexity. that leaves a clean, refreshing finish. Columbia Dis- 86 Castelli di Jesi Classico). This opens with a 85 chio dei Castelli di Jesi). This opens with Salvia Bianca Imports. —K.O. tributing. Best Buy. —K.O. pretty fragrance of acacia flower and beeswax. The somewhat evolved aromas of flint and tilled earth, abv: 13% Price: $37 abv: 12% Price: $12

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 27

BUYINGGUIDE

with a hint of vanilla and toast. The palate offers scotch sensations that overwhelm the more subtle ripe peach and apple flavors, with notes of ginger, cented by notes of thyme, mint and a hint of vanilla. ical fruit and citrus. Pair this with light pasta dishes notes of lemon zest, tangerine, bitter almond and floral and citrus characteristics. Villa Italia. —K.O. almond and a drop of honey. Energizing minerality Vinum USA Inc. —K.O. MARCHE or lightly seasoned fish. Guidi Marcello. —K.O. apple skin, but it lacks fruit richness. Regal Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $25 marks the finish. Villa Italia.Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 Imports Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17 Conte Leopardi 2012 Calcare Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $22 Centanni Giacomo 2012 Offida Pecorino. For 87 (Marche). Here’s a crisp and refreshing Sau- FALERIO Clara Marcelli 2012 IRATA (Offida Pecorino). 86 full review see page 11. vingon that opens with aromas of stone fruit and a OTHER WHITE WINES Malacari 2012 Vinea Misturi (Verdicchio dei 89 Made from organically farmed grapes, this abv: 14.5% Price: $15 hint of crushed tomato vine. The crisp palate shows 85 Castelli di Jesi). This white has a pretty Velenosi 2012 Villa Angela Pecorino (Fale- lovely wine opens with intense aromas of acacia juicy white peach, green melon and mango, as well Muròla 2012 Pecorino (Terre di Chieti). This floral fragrance of honeysuckle, accompanied by a 88 rio). Floral sensations of acacia flower, jas- and hawthorne. The medium-bodied palate delivers De Angelis 2012 Offida Pecorino. This opens as a delicate mineral note. Acid Inc Selections. 87 lovely wine offers a bouquet of jasmine and whiff of cut grass. The palate is a bit lean, offering mine and herbs meld with tropical fruit, citrus and tropical fruit, peach and pear flavors alongside crisp 86 with delicate floral and citrus aromas, while —K.O. acacia flowers that are typical of the Pecorino grape. notes of lemon zest, apple skin and bitter almond sage. The medium-bodied palate also offers a flinty acidity. A delicate mineral note marks the close. the palate offers lemon drop and juicy yellow-ap- abv: NA Price: $24 The fresh palate offers juicy apricot, pear and nutty on the close. Polaner Selections, Ambrosia Wine mineral note and a whiff of smoke, while bright Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. ple flavors alongside crisp acidity. Pair this with flavors accompanied by crisp, clean acidity. Soilair Group. —K.O. acidity leaves the palate refreshed. Domaine Select abv: 14.5% Price: $23 linguine topped with clam sauce. Terroir Society, Tenuta Cocci Grifoni 2012 Tellus Verdicchio Selection. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $19 Wine Estates. —K.O. Potomac Selections. —K.O. 87 (Marche). This opens with an alluring floral abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $15 Colli Ripani 2012 Rugaro Gold (Offida Pecori- abv: 14% Price: $13 fragrance of yellow rose, acacia and beeswax. The 89 no). Bright and savory, this floral scented linear palate offers lemon, apple and pear flavors, VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA Cherri d’Acquaviva 2012 Pecorino (Falerio). Pecorino offers juicy tropical fruit and lemon drop Domodimonti 2012 Licoste (Offida Pecori- along with Verdicchio’s hallmark of bright acidity. CENTRAL ITALY 87 Notes of jasmine and acacia mingle with sensations accented by notes of mint and thyme. 86 no). A hint of butterscotch mingles with Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —K.O. ColleStefano 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica. fleshy white peach, apple, citrus and ginger. The The ripe fruit is balanced by brisk acidity that apple, banana, tangerine and lemon sensations. abv: 14% Price: $12 RED WINES 92 From one of the top estates in the Matelica lithe palate comes with firm but balanced acidity, leaves the palate feeling cleansed and refreshed. The The brisk acidity would lift hearty accompanying denomination and made from organically farmed while a flinty minerality characterizes the finish. Harvest Importing . —K.O. fare; pair this with fish stews or pastas topped with Cantina Offida 2012 Passerina (Marche). CONERO grapes, this stunning wine offers a beautiful bou- Select Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 creamy clam sauce. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O. 86 Made from yet another up and coming quet of acacia flowers, beeswax and stone fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $20 white grape from Central Italy, this opens with a Malacari 2008 Riserva Grigiano (Conero). The palate delivers flavors of creamy white peach, Poderi San Lazzaro 2012 Pistillo (Offida pretty floral fragrance of wisteria and jasmine. The 89 This opens with intense aromas of plum, apricot and pear, all accented by aromatic herbs and Collevite 2012 Falerio. Here’s a bright and 89 Pecorino). Attractive floral scents of yellow Le Caniette 2011 Io sono Gaia non sono Lu- linear white peach, pear and citrus flavors are bal- berry and chocolate. The concentrated palate de- mineral tones. Delicious now, with crisp acidity, 85 easy-drinking wine made from , flowers and Alpine herbs meld with juicy flavors 86 crezia (Offida Pecorino). Aged for one year anced by bright acidity. Vino et Spiritus. —K.O. livers ripe black cherry, prune and cinnamon-spice this will develop complexity over the next few years. Passerina and Pecorino grapes. It has sensations of of creamy peach, apple and lemon, all accented by in barriques, this is dominated by raw oak and abv: 12.5% Price: $13 layered alongside vanilla and coffee. While the oak Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. acacia flower, lemon and peach alongside vibrant hints of thyme and sage. Aging 25% of the wine in butterscotch aromas that carry over to the palate is very evident, the rich fruit supports the des- abv: 13% Price: $18 acidity. Park Avenue Imports. —K.O. wood lends a touch of complexity to the savory fla- alongside lemon and pineapple flavors. While it’s Ciù Ciù 2012 Evoè Passerina (Marche). This sert-like flavors. It’s round and ready so enjoy soon. abv: NA Price: $18 vors. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. an understandable effort to differentiate it from 86 opens with attractive floral sensations rem- Polaner Selections, Ambrosia Wine Group. —K.O. Belisario 2012 Vigneti del Cerro (Verdicchio abv: NA Price: $25 other wines made from Pecorino, it doesn’t possess iniscent of white spring flowers. Pear, apple and abv: 14% Price: $47 91 di Matelica). This textbook Verdicchio from Le Corti dei Farfensi 2012 Curtes Pecorino enough fruit richness to support the wood sensa- pineapple flavors are all present, along with a bare Matelica opens with enticing aromas of yellow 85 (Falerio). Made from the native Pecorino Villa Bizzarri 2012 Primo Cerchio (Offida tions. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. hint of mineral. There’s no complexity here but it’s Fattoria Le Terrazze 2008 Riserva Sassi Neri spring flowers, stone fruit and citrus. The delicious grape, this has pretty floral aromas that mingle with 89 Pecorino). Here’s a delicious Pecorino that abv: 13.5% Price: $29 fresh and lively. Villa Italia. —K.O. 88 (Conero). This wine opens with a pretty palate offers peach, tropical fruit and mineral fla- bright sensations of tropical fruit and citrus. It’s opens with appealing if unusual aromas of tilled abv: 13% Price: $14 fragrance of blue flower, black fruit and spice. The vors, with a hint of sea salt. Villa Italia. —K.O. simple but well constructed and enjoyable. Guidi soil alongside more classic floral notes of Spanish juicy palate is one dimensional but delicious, offer- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Marcello. —K.O. broom and acacia. It boasts ripe white peach, juicy OFFIDA PASSERINA Le Caniette 2012 Lucrezia Passerina ing ripe black cherry and blackberry layered with abv: 12.5% Price: $13 pineapple and lemon custard flavors, along with al- 86 (Marche). Made entirely from Central Itay’s milk chocolate. It’s extremely accessible so enjoy Fontezoppa 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica. This mond and mineral notes. Siena Imports. Best Buy. Centanni Giacomo 2012 Offida Passerina. native Passerina grape, this has apple and pineapple soon. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. 91 beautiful wine opens with a heady floral fra- Saladini Pilastri 2012 Falerio. This blend of —K.O. 86 This opens with bright aromas of citrus and flavors accented by hints of dried herbs and delicate abv: NA Price: $35 grance of jasmine, broom, acacia and beeswax. The 85 Trebbiano, Pecorino and Chardonnay grapes abv: 13.5% Price: $14 apple. The palate offers lemon and pear flavors, with mineral. Crisp acidity leaves the palate refreshed. palate delivers succulent creamy peach and pineap- offers everyday drinking pleasure. Simple but well a hint of vanilla. Pair this racy wine with light first Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. Moroder 2009 Riserva Dorico (Conero). ple notes, with a hint of bitter almond. The creamy made, this has floral, pear, apple and citrus sensa- Collevite 2012 Villa Piatti (Offida Pecorino). courses and delicately seasoned fish dishes. Jona- abv: 13% Price: $14 88 Plum, prune, black cherry and toasted oak palate is brightened by mouthwatering acidity and, tions, along with crisp acidity. Michelangelo Im- 88 This opens with variety’s signature floral than Zeiger. —K.O. sensations take center stage in this wine made from while delicious now, this will develop additional- ports. Best Buy. —K.O. fragrance of acacia and jasmine, accented by tropi- abv: 13% Price: $15 Muròla 2012 Passerina (Marche). Marche’s 100% Montelpulciano. The rich, dense cherry and complexity; drink 2014–2020. Multiple U.S. im- abv: 13% Price: $9 cal fruit. The flavors of creamy lemon, pear, tanger- 85 Passerina grape is known for making crushed blackberry flavors are accented by mint, porters. Best Buy. —K.O. ine and lime are accented with hints of dried Med- Poderi San Lazzaro 2012 Offida Passerina. easy-drinking and enjoyable wines like this one. white pepper and a hint of espresso. Give this a few abv: 13% Price: $10 iterranean herbs. This is linear and focused. Park 85 This offers bright fruit sensations of lem- It has delicate pear and tropical fruit flavors, with more years to tame the bracing, but fine tannins. OFFIDA PECORINO Avenue Imports. —K.O. on peel and pineapple, with veil of dusty mineral. a restrained mineral note on the finish. Perfect to Drink 2015–2019. Worldwide Cellars, A.I. Selec- Muròla 2012 Verdicchio di Matelica. For full abv: NA Price: $22 You’ll also detect an astringent note of sage and bit- match with light, everyday fare. Soilair Selection. tions. —K.O. 91 review see page 12. Best Buy. Guido Cocci Grifoni 2012 Colle Vecchio (Of- ter nut on the close. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 90 fida Pecorino). From the estate that saved Saladini Pilastri 2012 Offida Pecorino. Here’s abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 the Pecorino grape from extinction, this focused and 88 a bright and delicious Pecorino, with sensa- Moncaro 2009 Riserva Vigneti del Parco Belisario 2012 Terre di Valbona (Verdicchio di refined wine intrigues from the start, with its floral tions of white peach, pear, tropical fruit and lemon Clara Marcelli 2012 Raffa (Offida Passerina). Santa Barbara 2012 Passerina (Marche). 87 (Conero). Earthy notes of forest floor, tobac- 89 Matelica). This opens with attractive aro- aromas of jasmine and acacia, layered with whiffs zest. The savory palate is uplifted by a vein of ener- 84 Made with organically farmed grapes, this 85 This perky wine offers tropical fruit, citrus co leaf and black cherry open this wine made entire- mas of yellow spring flowers and an assortment of of balsamic herbs. The palate demonstrates lovely gizing minerality. Pair this with pastas topped with opens with tutti-frutti aromas that recall Juicy and apple sensations alongside the grape’s hallmark ly from . The lush palate offers a core white tree fruits. The vibrant palate offers lemon, energy and elegance, with peach and tropical fruit shellfish. Saranty Imports. —K.O. Fruit gum. It has very ripe—nearly overripe—yellow of bright acidity. It closes on a delicate note of steely of ripe black cherry layered with cinnamon-spice, tangerine, apple and pineapple flavors alongside flavors accented by mineral and almond. Empson abv: 13.5% Price: $16 peach and tropical fruit flavors. Vinity Wine Com- mineral. Simple, but well constructed. Solstars Inc. chocolate and coffee. While purists will say there’s fresh acidity. Artisan Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —K.O. (USA) Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. pany. —K.O. —K.O. too much oak, the fruit is undeniably delicious. Not abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $16 La Canosa 2012 Pekò (Offida Pecorino). Made abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $19 an ager so enjoy soon. International Cellars. —K.O. 87 from 100% Pecorino, this offers floral aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Belisario 2010 Riserva (Verdicchio di Matel- Ciù Ciù 2012 Merlettaie (Offida Pecorino). mas of acacia and jasmine. On the palate, it shows Le Corti dei Farfensi 2012 Ampor Passerina 86 ica). Even though only 20% of this Riser- 89 This opens with Pecorino’s classic flo- tropical fruit flavors of pineapple and banana, ac- 84 (Marche). This simple, everyday white of- Conte Leopardi 2006 Riserva Pigmento va is aged in barriques, this internationally-styled ral fragrance of acacia and hawthorne, accented fers wispy floral aromas and delicate flavors of trop- 86 (Conero). This opens with leafy underbrush Verdicchio shows dominant oak, vanilla and butter- by whiffs of stone fruit. On the palate, it delivers aromas, alongside toasted oak and tobacco. The pal-

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 29

BUYINGGUIDE

ate is on the lean side, offering prune, dried cherry, Marchetti 2011 Uve di Montepulciano (Rosso Piantate Lunghe 2011 Rosso Conero. Made palate offers prune, berry, vanilla and chocolate, Le Caniette 2007 Morellone (Rosso Piceno). Le Caniette 2010 Rosso Bello (Rosso Pice- espresso and fig alongside tight, astringent tannins. 87 Conero). A robust Montelpulciano offer- 85 from 100% Montepulciano, this opens with alongside round tannins. Drink soon. Saranty Im- 88 Mature blackberry, cherry and oak sen- 86 no). Hints of mint, cedar and blue flower This is fading, so drink soon. Acid Inc Selections. ing aromas of ripe plum, black cherry and cinna- aromas of rubber, coffee and espresso. The palate ports. —K.O. sations are in the forefront of this Montepulcia- add depth to the black cherry aromas on this blend —K.O. mon-spice the carry over to the palate. The juicy offers black fruit sensations, alongside slightly bit- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 no and Sangiovese blend. The palate delivers ripe of 45% Montepulciano, 45% Sangiovese and 10% abv: 14% Price: $38 fruit flavors are accompanied by supple tannins and ter tannins. This is simply structured and already fruit along with espresso, mocha, licorice and spice, Cabernet Sauvignon. Juicy fruit flavors carry over to a slightly warm mid-palate. This is all about imme- accessible, so drink soon. Peter Warren Selections. De Angelis 2009 Oro (Rosso Piceno Superio- alongside firm tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. fresh and accessible palate. Not for cellaring; enjoy Angeli di Varano 2010 Riserva Stile Libero diate and easy drinking, so enjoy now. August Wine —K.O. 85 re). The opening notes include unusual aro- —K.O. now. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. 85 (Conero). Notes of toasted oak and vanilla Group. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 mas, such as tire rubber and meat juices, along with abv: 14% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 are the opening notes of this wine. The palate has abv: 14.5% Price: $12 notes of plum and fig. The palate is better, with ripe ripe plum and blackberry that are overwhelmed by Conte Leopardi 2008 Casirano (Rosso Cone- blackberry, raspberry, vanilla and black pepper. It’s Brunori 2012 Torquis (Rosso Piceno). Juicy Monte Schiavo 2010 Sassaiolo (Rosso Pice- oak, espresso, coffee and sweet vanilla bean. Too Conte Leopardi 2010 Fructus (Rosso Cone- 84 ro). A heavy dose of oak takes center stage soft, warm and ready to drink now. A Marc de Grazia 87 black cherry and black berry take center 86 no). This 50-50 blend of Montepulciano much oak and too little fruit. Golden Horseshoe Inc. 86 ro). Made entirely with Montepulciano, in this blend of 85% Montepulciano and 15% Cab- selection; various American importers. —K.O. stage in this blend of Montelpulciano and San- and Sangiovese opens with earthy aromas of tilled —K.O. this opens with earthy aromas of tilled soil along ernet and Syrah. Coffee, vanilla and toasted notes abv: 13.5% Price: $19 giovese. There’s a hint of white pepper and mint on soil and blue flower, accented by ripe red berries. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 with notes of black fruit and espresso. The linear leave very little room for any fruit, which appears the close, along with just enough freshness to lift The palate is one dimensional with juicy black cher- palate delivers bright red cherry, notes of mocha to have faded away entirely, leaving only astringent Velenosi 2011 Brecciarolo (Rosso Piceno Su- this up. Not for cellaring, so enjoy soon. Worldwide ry, raspberry and a hint of cinnamon-spice. Simple, Marchetti 2010 Riserva Villa Bonomi (Cone- and somewhat astringent tannins. Straightforward wood tannins on the close. Acid Inc Selections. 85 periore). Dense black fruit and blue flower Cellars, Sussex Wine Merchants. —K.O. but well made and very accessible. Drink soon. Sie- 85 ro). This shows more oak than fruit. It and simple, this should be enjoyed soon. Acid Inc —K.O. aromas open this straightforward blend of 70% abv: 13% Price: $15 na Imports, L’Amore di Vino. —K.O. opens with aromas of toasted oak, chocolate, vanilla Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese. The palate abv: 14% Price: $15 and espresso that all carry over to the palate along abv: 13.5% Price: $18 shows almost overripe blackberry and black cherry, Colli Ripani 2012 Rupe Nero Gold (Rosso Pice- with a note of spearmint chewing gum. Plum notes along with a hint of vanilla and coffee. It’s one di- 87 no). Tilled soil, spearmint and underbrush Montecappone 2012 Rosso Piceno. This are strangled beneath and it closes on a note of bit- Garofoli 2010 Piancarda (Rosso Conero). ROSSO PICENO SUPERIORE mensional and should be consumed soon. Domaine sensations add depth to the wild cherry and black- 86 blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% ter wood tannins. Small Vineyards LLC. —K.O. 86 Made from 100% Montepulciano, this Select Wine Estates. —K.O. berry aromas on this accessible blend of Montelpul- Sangiovese opens with earthy aromas of tilled soil, abv: 14% Price: $35 opens with aromas of blue flower, blackberry and Velenosi 2009 Roggio del Filare (Rosso Pi- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 ciano and Sangiovese. The juicy fruit flavors carry underbrush and ripe black fruit. Ripe black cherry espresso. Juicy fruit notes take center stage on the 89 ceno Superiore). Rich berry and oak-driven on to the palate alongside soft tannins. It’s round, and raspberry flavors are layered with chocolate and Piantate Lunghe 2009 Riserva Rossini palate, along with notes of vanilla and chocolate, spice take center stage in this blend of 70% Mon- La Canosa 2011 Nummaria (Rosso Piceno Su- ripe and extremely approachable. Vias Imports. espresso, alongside rough, drying tannins. Salvia Bi- 85 (Conero). Oak and alcohol aromas dominate yet ends on a dry, tannic note. Not much complexity telpulciano and 30% Sangiovese. The palate deliv- 84 periore). This blend of 70% Montepulciano —K.O. anca Imports. —K.O. this wine made from 100% Montepulciano. The here so enjoy this soon. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. ers ripe plum and black cherry, along with notes of and 30% Sangiovese opens with aromas of prune abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 palate delivers café au lait and espresso, blueberry, —K.O. sage, spearmint and mocha. It’s ready to enjoy now. and mocha that carry over to the palate. It lacks chocolate and mint alongside the warmth of alco- abv: NA Price: $20 Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. fruit richness and freshness and it’s easy to detect Fattoria Laila 2012 Rosso Piceno. Rich black Muròla 2012 Rosso Piceno. This 50-50 hol. It’s starting to fade, so drink soon. Peter Warren abv: 14.5% Price: $55 evident alcohol. Vinum USA Inc. —K.O. 87 berry flavors lead in this delicious blend of 86 blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese Selections. —K.O. Malacari 2009 Villa Malacari (Rosso Cone- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 80% Montepulciano and 20% Sangiovese. The has blackberry, blue flower and spice aromas that abv: 15% Price: $39 86 ro). This opens with leafy underbrush aro- Cantina Offida 2010 Rosso Piceno Superio- juicy fruit carries over to the palate, with notes of carry on to the palate, along with black cherry and mas accompanied by whiffs of blue flower, rubber 86 re. This blend of 70% Montepulciano and Clara Marcelli 2010 Rosso Piceno Superiore. balsamic herbs alongside big, ripe tannins. It’s a astringent tannins. Showing the heat of the vintage, and toasted oak. The palate’s oak-driven sensations 30% Sangiovese opens with notes of prune, raisin 83 Made from organically farmed grapes, this straightforward wine for everyday pleasure. Drink it’s also shy on freshness, so drink soon. Soilair Se- ROSSO CONERO of chocolate and coffee muffle the restrained black- and dried flower petals. The staunchly tannic palate 50/50 blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese now. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —K.O. lection. —K.O. berry and black cherry flavors. Polaner Selections, offers red cherry flavors but feels a bit lean, despite opens with funky farmyard aromas and notes of abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Umani Ronchi 2011 San Lorenzo (Rosso Ambrosia Wine Group. —K.O. a layer of chocolate. Alcohol sensations are also de- leafy underbrush. The palate oozes dense, overripe 88 Conero). Made from 100% Montepulciano, abv: 14% Price: $18 tected, even though the alcohol percentage is mod- black berry and prune. The heavy, extracted pal- Le Caniette 2005 Nero di Vite (Rosso Pice- Saladini Pilastri 2011 Monteprandone (Ros- this delicious, friendly wine is loaded with mouth- est. Vino et Spiritus. —K.O. ate finishes on a sweet note, but lacks balance and 87 no). This aged blend of 50% Sangiovese 86 so Piceno). This robust blend of 80% Mon- watering black cherry layered with mint, nutmeg Conte Leopardi 2010 Villa Marina (Rosso abv: 13.5% Price: $18 freshness. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. and 50% Montelpulciano opens with black fruit tepulciano and 20% Sangiovese opens with aromas and black pepper. It’s round, ripe and extremely 85 Conero). This wine opens with aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and oak aromas. The dense palate delivers dense of blackberry, underbrush and tobacco leaf, with a approachable so enjoy soon. Pair with everything underbrush, tobacco leaf and forest floor. The palate Ciù Ciù 2009 Gotico (Rosso Piceno Supe- raspberry and wild cherry, layered with clove and hint of balsamic herbs. The palate offers dense black from hearty pasta dishes to barbecue fair. Bedford is a bit lean, with coffee and espresso beating out 86 riore). This blend of Montepulciano and De Angelis 2010 Rosso Piceno Superiore. chocolate alongside dusty tannins. Montcalm Wine fruit, prune and espresso, alongside firm tannins. International. Best Buy. —K.O. the raspberry and black cherry beneath the surface. Sangiovese opens with initial aromas of wet earth 83 Aromas of tarmac, burned rubber and oak Importers. —K.O. It’s shy on fresh acidity so enjoy this soon. Saranty abv: 13.5% Price: $17 The fruit seems to be drying up fast so drink soon. and blue flower, along with hints of berry and va- open this 70-30 blend of Montepulciano and San- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Imports. —K.O. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. nilla. The palate delivers ripe blackberry layered giovese. The heavy dose of oak carries on to the abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Angeli di Varano 2012 Primo di Tre (Rosso abv: 13.5% Price: $15 with chocolate, alongside dusty tannins. Not very palate along with espresso, vanilla and saucy sensa- Vicari 2011 Del Pozzo Buono (Rosso Piceno). 87 Conero). Ripe berry and spice aromas take complex but enjoyable and ready to drink now. Villa tions of stewed, sweetened plum. This lacks balance 87 This blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Centanni Giacomo 2012 Rosso di Forca (Ros- center stage in the 100% Montelpulciano from Fattoria Le Terrazze 2011 Rosso Conero. Made Italia. —K.O. and finesse. Terroir Society, Potomac Selections. Sangiovese is bright and approachable. It opens 85 so Piceno). For full review see page 12. Marche. The ripe, round palate delivers juicy black 85 from 100% Montepulciano, this opens with abv: 14% Price: $20 —K.O. with pretty aromas of red cherry and blue flower abv: 13.5% Price: $15 cherry and black berry along with cinnamon-spice. unusual aromas of tire rubber. Dense black fruit abv: NA Price: $13 that carry over to the palate, along with white pep- There’s no complexity here but it’s ripe, round and flavors are accented with hints of white pepper Le Corti dei Farfensi 2009 S. Joseph (Ros- per and a hint of tobacco leaf. Juicy and extremely Cherri d’Acquaviva 2012 Rosso Piceno. Leafy, delicious. Enjoy this soon. Golden Horseshoe Inc. alongside astringent tannins. Already approachable, 86 so Piceno Superiore). Earthy, berry and accessible, enjoy this now. Salvia Bianca Imports. 85 earthy, underbrush sensations dominate —K.O. the palate is straightforward and one dimensional. oak aromas take center stage in this approachable ROSSO PICENO —K.O. the nose of this 60-40 blend of Montepulciano and abv: 13% Price: $19 Drink soon. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano. The abv: NA Price: $18 Sangiovese. The palate feels lean with tobacco leaf, abv: 14% Price: $18 palate offers plum, chocolate and light oak sensa- Bucci 2008 Villa Bucci Rosso (Rosso Pice- prune, bitter almond and alcohol, alongside bracing, Fattoria Le Terrazze 2012 Praeludium (Rosso tions, alongside ripe, round tannins. Accessible and 90 no). Hailing from old vines, this delicious Cantina Offida 2012 Rosso Piceno. This ap- astringent tannins. Select Wine Imports. —K.O. 87 Conero). Floral aromas of blue flower and Garofoli 2008 Grosso Argontano (Rosso one dimensional, this is ready to drink now. Guidi blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese 86 proachable, bright blend of Sangiovese and abv: 14% Price: $15 bright berry take center stage in this pretty blend of 85 Conero). This smells like burnt tire rubber, Marcello. —K.O. is concentrated but elegant. Aromas of tilled soil, Montelpulciano, has forward sensations of black 85% Montepulciano and 15% Syrah. The palate de- oak and coffee. The palate demonstrates faint notes abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ripe blackberry, black cherry, black pepper and a cherry and black berry, with a hint of white pep- Saladini Pilastri 2012 Rosso Piceno. Oak and livers juicy raspberry and cherry flavors, alongside of restrained plum, but toasted oak, chocolate and hint of vanilla take center stage. The palate shows per. Supple, round tannins make this very drinkable 85 woodsy underbrush aromas take center soft, supple tannins. This is round and extremely espresso dominate in a style reminiscent of the late Saladini Pilastri 2012 Montetinello (Rosso juicy sour cherry, accented with balsamic herbs and now. Vino et Spiritus. —K.O. stage in this blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% accessible now so enjoy soon. Multiple U.S. import- 1990s. Bitter wood tannins finish this off. Dalla Ter- 86 Piceno Superiore). This 50-50 blend of San- a mineral note balanced by freshness and supple abv: 13% Price: $13 Sangiovese. The palate shows blackberry flavors, ers. —K.O. ra Winery Direct. —K.O. giovese and Montepulciano opens with leafy aromas tannins. Empson (USA) Ltd. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $35 of blue flower and underbrush. The straightforward abv: 13.5% Price: $65

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 31

BUYINGGUIDE

rubber, vanilla and espresso notes, alongside abra- thoroughly enjoyable wine. It’s loaded with black- way, it belongs on the table. Drink 2014–2020. Wi- livening, with real citrus lift. Drink from 2016. Vin about it spells easy pleasure in a glass. Winesellers nuances of dried thyme and seductive cherry fruit, sive tannins. Saranty Imports. —K.O. berry and white pepper notes. While it’s one di- nesellers Ltd. —A.K. Divino. —A.K. Ltd. —A.K. make this a compelling choice with more depth than abv: 13% Price: $11 mensional, it’s also robust and delicious. Pair this abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 7.5% Price: $50/375 ml abv: 12.5% Price: $NA force. This is subtle and velvety, quietly convincing with hearty pastas topped with meat sauces. Ethica and very long. Firm yet ripe tannins provide struc- Tenuta di Tavignano 2009 Libenter (Rosso Wines. Best Buy. —K.O. Pratsch 2012 Steinberg Reserve Grüner Velt- Pratsch 2012 Lange Ried Riesling (Niederös- ture and ageability. This will be even more elegant 85 Piceno). Plum and raisin aromas are ac- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 91 liner (Niederösterreich). Enticing and smoky 89 terreich). An enticing mix of lime zest and ROSÉ with a few years of cellaring; drink 2016–2020. Cel- companied by oak sensations on this blend of 70% hints of lime zest mixed with green pear hit the very ripe, juicy pear present the first impression and lar Selection. —A.K. Montepulciano, 25% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet nose immediately. On the palate, even more fruit unite in a linear, racy palate. As the wine opens in Pratsch 2012 Rosé (Niederöster- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Sauvignon. The fruit appears to have dried up on OTHER RED WINES follows: A mix of green and yellow pear, with some the glass, spicier edges appear: apricot kernels and 88 reich). This pours such a pleasing, vibrant the palate, which offers mint, vanilla and espresso, apricot coming through as well. The rounded, rich marzipan make an appearance and promise future pink color, with a fruity nose of fresh strawberries. Birgit Braunstein 2011 Blaufränkisch along with drying tannins. de Grazia Imports LLC. Velenosi 2009 Ludi (Offida Rosso). A blend mouthfeel is prevented from any undue plumpness flavour development. With thrillingly fresh acidity It’s like eating strawberries dressed in lemon juice: 92 (Leithaberg). Black cherry and ripe black- —K.O. 87 of 50% Montepulciano, 25% Cabernet Sau- by vivid acidity and a tingling, peppery finish. Drink and a lip-smacking finish, it’s almost irresistible refreshing, deceptively easy and simple. If you are berry would sumptuously lull you in if it weren’t for abv: 15% Price: $24 vignon and 25% Merlot, this densely packed wine is 2014–2020. Winesellers Ltd. —A.K. now, but with this sort of concentration certainly looking for refreshment and charm, this is your that tender frame of acidity and soft, supple tan- loaded with black fruit and new oak sensations. The abv: 14% Price: $NA also good for laying down. Winesellers Ltd. —A.K. wine. Winesellers Ltd. —A.K. nins, keeping everything in check and making this Fattoria Laila 2010 Lailum (Rosso Piceno). ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors are layered abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA a versatile food wine. This has immense charm and 84 New oak takes the limelight in this blend with notes of espresso, spice and new oak. It’s not Pratsch 2012 Rotenpüllen Grüner Veltlin- pure, long, peppery fruit. —A.K. of 90% Montepulciano and 10% Sangiovese. The very complex, but the fruit is attractive. Enjoy soon. 89 er (Niederösterreich). Zesty, grippy, dry abv: 13.5% Price: $NA palate is dominated by wood, espresso, toast and Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. and flinty are words that spring to mind for this OTHER WHITE WINES BLAUFRÄNKISCH vanilla alongside rubber, leafy sensations. It lacks abv: 14.5% Price: $65 straight-laced, very zingy white. It shows little more Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2011 Spitzerberg fruit richness and has a drying, astringent finish. fruit than lime and Meyer lemon right now, but that Manfred Tement 2011 Zieregg Sauvignon Krutzler 2011 Perwolff Blaufränkisch (Bur- 92 Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). A great puri- Regal House. —K.O. Illuminati Dino 2008 Riserva Lumen (Con- makes it refreshing and a winner with seafood. Wi- 93 Blanc (Südsteiermark). Aromatically intense 94 genland). The combination of just-ripe ty of lifted, wild blackberry, fringed by ivy leaves, abv: 14% Price: $22 86 troguerra). A heavy dose of oak takes center nesellers Ltd. —A.K. notes of flint, smoke and gunmetal already hint at cherry fruit and fresh blackberries with bracing makes a lasting impression on this mysterious, stage on this wine from Central Italy. The palate of- abv: 13% Price: $NA the precise and profound nature of this Styrian acidity distinguishes this clean-cut red. A totally ethereal wine. Deeper down lurk darker notes of Saladini Pilastri 2012 Piediprato (Rosso Pi- fers coffee, espresso, vanilla and chocolate but lacks Sauvignon Blanc. Everything is in abundance: con- winning interplay of refreshingly tart fruit in a gen- smoke, elderberry, tar and flint. A slender body with 84 ceno). Oak dominates in this 50-50 blend enough fruit richness to support the oak. Montcalm centration, savory undertones of boxwood and moss tle structure, carefully framed by oak, this shows fresh acidity destines this for the table: wherever of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Espresso, roast- Wine Importers. —K.O. RIESLING and an integrated acidity that gives both length and immense purity and is joy to drink. Drink after intriguing aromatics are required, this is the wine. ed coffee bean, chocolate and vanilla leave little abv: 14.5% Price: $48 structure to this intense wine. Drink 2015–2018. 2015. —A.K. Martine’s Wines. —A.K. room for the red berry fruit sensations one expects Domäne Wachau 2012 Achleiten Riesling Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $70 from these grape varieties. Saranty Imports. —K.O. 95 Smaragd (Wachau). Super-tight and not abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $16 AUSTRIA yet willing to charm, this presently gives little more Umathum 2011 Kirschgarten Blaufränk- Prieler 2010 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). Red than the heady spritz of ripe lemon peel, but the T.P.O. 2012 In den Rothen (Wiener Gemi- 94 isch (Burgenland). Flinty elderberry and 92 cherry fruit, with edges of white pepper, Tenuta di Tavignano 2011 Cervidoni (Rosso GRÜNER VELTLINER stony background, concentration on the palate and 89 schter Satz). While the nose is muted, on crushed blackberry are the dark-fruited aromatics plays charmingly on both the nose and palate. The 84 Piceno). The nose on this 70% Montepul- a haunting, zesty length all point to future reward. the palate there are hints of Golden Delicious ap- that pervade the nose and palate of this wine. There svelte figure of the wine belies its depth: this has ciano and 30% Sangiovese blend reveals under- Domäne Wachau 2012 Kellerberg Grüner Be patient with this and it will repay you thousand- ples, fir honey and a pleasing bitter almond edge. is a smoky smudge to the velvet tannins, making subtle, Burgundian virtues and earthy undertones brush and tobacco leaf that carry over to the palate, 94 Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). This wine fold, with honeyed richness, luscious peach and a This is a white wine made with food in mind, its this intriguing and elegant. The tannic structure that provoke stimulating conversation and thought. along with dried berry sensations. It feels rather boasts a creamy palate, with aromas of fresh and strong mineral backbone. Drink from 2018. Vin Di- pronounced midpalate will pair well with cheeses frames this medium-bodied charmer, and its superb An ideal accompaniment for subtle, nuanced dishes abrasive and the dried fruit and astringent tannins baked apples that transition to flavors of apple vino. —A.K. or creamy pasta. If you are looking for texture rather balance and aromatic layers make you come back for or a really good book. Michael Skurnik Wines. Edi- set up a bitter finish. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. crumble laced with citrus zest. Concentration, pre- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 than primary fruit, this is your wine. Carlo Huber more. Ready from 2016. Winemonger. —A.K. tors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: NA Price: $14 cision and lively acidity mean that this will pair Selections. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $46 abv: 13% Price: $58 well with many fatty foods. It’s glorious now, but its Domäne Wachau 2012 Kellerberg Riesling abv: 12.5% Price: $17 acidity means that you can expect pleasant devel- 93 Smaragd (Wachau). Breezily aromatic notes Birgit Braunstein 2011 Felsenstein Blaufränk- Iby 2011 Chevalier Blaufränkisch (Mittelbur- MONTEPULCIANO D’ opment over the next five years. Vin Divino. —A.K. of juniper, cypress and lemon zest overlay ripe and Manfred Tement 2012 Berghausener Sauvi- 93 isch (Burgenland). Initially tight and closed, 91 genland). If you expect coquettish flirting abv: 14.5% Price: $46 juicy peach tones on the nose. The palate is centered 88 gnon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Ripe, round- a few minutes in the glass reveal ballet-like elegance, you must go elsewhere: this amply layered red will Illuminati Dino 2011 Ilico (Montepulciano on pink grapefruit peel, with a toned, concentrat- ed and grassy varietal flavors set this apart from slender but defined muscle and tightly-packed, dark not give up its secrets easily. But engage with it and 88 d’Abruzzo). Black cherry and blackberry Domäne Wachau 2012 Achleiten Grüner Velt- ed body that buffers the fresh acidity and delivers more slender offerings of the new world. This is cherry fruit, along with the aromatic allure of elder- it will reward with poised, polished structure, sub- take over on this Montepulciano-based wine from 92 liner Smaragd (Wachau). A hint of mossy a softer style. Everything is tightly held, as in a bud Sauvignon Blanc from a continental climate, with berries. This is sleek and spicy and totally worth the tle pepper spice and ripe but reined-in cherry fruit. Central Italy. The juicy fruit carries over to the pal- undergrowth leads on the nose, while lovely notes that still needs to open. This is a wine for the long substance and roundness that puts flesh on the wait with its seductive, ethereal aromas. Drink from The more time you spend with it, the more you’ll ate, along with prune and cinnamon-spice notes of white-pepper dusted green and yellow pear un- run. Future pleasures are indicated by those multi- bones of this sleek variety. This is ideal for pairing 2015. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. discover. Ready from 2015. Domaine Select Wine that add depth. Already friendly, hold for a couple fold on the soft, rounded palate. Those looking for faceted aromas. Ready from 2016. Vin Divino. —A.K. with soft, washed-rind cheeses. Weygandt-Metzler. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Estates. —A.K. of years to fully develop. Montcalm Wine Importers. texture as well as flavor will not be disappointed. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 —K.O. Those who have the patience to cellar this will be abv: 13% Price: $NA Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 Alter Berg abv: 13.5% Price: $17 rewarded with complex, mature flavors and great Domäne Wachau 2012 Kellerberg Riesling 93 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). This is a com- Krutzler 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). concentration. Drink 2016–2020. Vin Divino. 93 (Wachau). Incredi- pelling red for those who like a bit of mystery: is 91 Dark cherry, blackberry and ripe blueberries Illuminati Dino 2012 Riparosso (Montepul- —A.K. bly ripe and sweet apricots, candied orange peel, a SPARKLING WINE it red or black cherry? Or possibly, dark, aromatic vie for attention on the nose. The palate is elegant 87 ciano d’Abruzzo). This opens with earthy abv: 14.5% Price: $46 touch of fresh spearmint and fresh lemon zest all elderberry? Oak spicily supports this interchange and tight, with some oak spice and soft but palpable aromas of tilled wet soil and black fruit. The juicy abound on the nose, and are just the first expres- Pratsch NV Frizzante Halbtrocken Rosé (Os- of fruit, and firm tannins lend structure while the tannins and food-friendly acidity. This is ideal for palate offers ripe blackberry and cherry, along with Pratsch 2012 Steinberg Grüner Veltliner (Nie- sions. Balm-like sweetness and clouds of more apri- 86 terreichischer Sekt). Carbonated fizz gives fresh acidity keeps it lively. It’s almost like a whole subtle dishes that demand a red wine with depth hints of white pepper and spice. There’s no com- 92 derösterreich). An aroma of fresh, green cot and peach play on the palate, but electric acidity lift and liveliness to this Austrian rosé, which took cast of characters were lined up in this wine for your and quiet power. —A.K. plexity here but this hearty food-friendly red is per- Bartlett-pear peel comes first, then the riper notion runs straight through and lends this rich and unc- a look across the Alps to take a successful leaf out entertainment. The lingering finish is especially abv: 13% Price: $NA fect for everyday fare—thanks to its delicious fruit of pear compote, with a grippy, lime-zest accent tuous TBA the thrilling freshness and streamlined of Italy’s book with this fruity, easy and hedonistic convincing. This will get even better with cellaring; and freshness. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. and a dash of pepper. Waves of flavor unfold on zestiness of candied citrus peel, finishing with long, frizzante-style sparkler that is full of strawberry drink from 2016. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —A.K. Wohlmuth 2011 Rabenkropf Blaufränkisch abv: 13.5% Price: $15 the tongue and give exquisite length. It has ample lip-smacking deliciousness. Unlike treacly sweet fruit. This is a wine for picnics, the beach or the abv: 14% Price: $100 90 (Burgenland). Red and black cherry and mileage to develop; enjoy it now while primary and TBAs, this has exquisite freshness and is very en- poolside, or for a balmy evening outside. Everything crushed blackberry unite with hints of cinnamon Casa Girelli 2011 Canaletto (Montepulcia- zippy or wait for mellowed richness later. Either Krutzler 2011 Reserve Blaufränkisch (Bur- and clove in this medium-bodied wine. With ample 85 no d’Abruzzo). Here’s a bright, simple and 93 genland). Alluring white-pepper spice, with depth and elegance, this takes time to open up but

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 33

BUYINGGUIDE

provides a lovely, velvety texture, with ripe but still Judith Beck 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgen- Kirnbauer 2011 Vitikult Riede Neuberg Blau- R&A Pfaffl 2011 Altenberg Reserve St. Laurent and toned, this will be perfect for starters or light dense core of red cherry and an appetizing length. textured tannins. This is ready now but will also 88 land). Tart morello cherries exert a strong, 86 fränkisch (Mittelburgenland). Here’s a slen- 91 (Niederösterreich). For full review see page 9. lunches. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. benefit from cellaring. Wein-Bauer Distributing. moreish pull on the nose and palate. The fruitiness der but aromatic red, with a pleasing cherry-flesh abv: 13% Price: $44 abv: 13% Price: $36 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —A.K. is central but partnered with serious structure and note and a cedar spice accent. It’s fresh, sprightly abv: 14% Price: $40 food-friendly acidity. Ripe red-cherry flavor shows and very fruity. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Birgit Braunstein 2011 Goldberg St. Laurent Weingut Christ 2011 Bisamberg Zweigelt on the palate, as do supple, ripe tannins that never —A.K. 89 (Burgenland). A soft, light-footed entry is ZWEIGELT 90 (Vienna). A deep smoky red in color, this Hafner 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). overpower the fruit. VOS Selections. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 followed by extracted, yet still finely-knit tannins— exudes fresh but tart blackberry, with hints of cin- 89 Rounded, ripe and luscious cherry and abv: 13% Price: $20 presently, black cherry fruit is hidden behind them, Netzl 2011 Haidacker Zweigelt (Carnuntum). namon on the nose. These flavors are pleasantly blackberry fruit boast a meaty edge for added in- Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Blaufränk- but a juicy acidity promises they will come to the 92 A concentrated but restrained wine that is a present on the palate, where low-level tannins are terest. The body is ample without any heaviness, Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2011 Kalk und 86 isch (Leithaberg). Vanilla and toasty oak surface before long. —A.K. bit like French couture: timelessly elegant, quietly sleek and elegant. A juicy, concentrated, vibrant pierced by a lively, appetizing freshness and shades 88 Schiefer Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). A spice play alongside savory red-cherry fruit on the abv: 13% Price: $NA confident but incredibly well-made and fitting. The and refreshing wine from one of Vienna’s famous of darker, smoky berries in the background. Apollo very quintessential Blaufränkisch, this boasts a nose and palate of this approachable wine. Smooth tannins provide structure without being obtrusive. vineyards that delivers with its slender body, gentle Fine Spirits. —A.K. light-footed balance of cherry, dark berries, spright- and supple tannins suggest that this is a wine for Hafner 2011 Classique St. Laurent (Burgen- Oak plays a sonorous supporting role and dark cher- tannins and good length. Carlo Huber Selections. abv: 13% Price: $NA ly acidity and medium body in a sleek and elegantly drinking now. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. 89 land). Highly aromatic, black elderberries ry beckons on the nose and palate, all concluding in Editors’ Choice. —A.K. silhouetted frame, with ripe, soft tannins. Frederick abv: 13% Price: $25 explode on the nose. Blueberry follows against a a peppery, long finish. Ready now but will keep till abv: 13% Price: $22 Iby 2011 Quintus Blaufränkisch (Mittelbur- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. backdrop of graphite and plays the same delicious 2016. Select Wines. —A.K. 89 genland). Cinnamon and ripe blueberry abv: 13% Price: $NA Iby 2012 Classic Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). accords on the soft, supple and juicy palate of this abv: 14% Price: $55 Hannes Reeh 2012 Zweigelt (Neusiedlersee). flash out from this concentrated, almost broodingly 84 Savory red-cherry notes domaine this wine, appetizing wine. Kosher. Apollo Fine Spirits. Best 89 An incredibly balanced wine where red seductive red. It takes time to open up but fulfills its Preisinger 2012 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). with a light body, some spicy accents and lots of re- Buy. —A.K. Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Haide Zweigelt cherry fruit marries with velvety tannins, medium promise with a supple, generous body. Soft tannins 88 Crushed blackberry and smoky blueberry freshing, enlivening acidity. Domaine Select Wine abv: 13% Price: $12 92 (Niederösterreich). This is a Zweigelt with body and clean-cut acidity and cinnamon hints in have their counterpoint in ripe, almost luscious show a vibrant presence. This is luscious and vel- Estates. —A.K. an identity crisis that thinks it may be Pinot Noir. the background. This is an ideal, unobtrusive but fruit that is as warming and soft as a velvet blanket. vety, without ever losing its continental-climate abv: 13% Price: $18 Kurt Angerer 2011 St. Laurent (Niederöster- It’s elegant and silky, with a gentle tannic touch, delicious food wine that will perform no matter This works well with or without food. Domaine Se- freshness and poise. Really refreshing and uncom- 89 reich). Brooding and mysterious—giving refreshing acidity and restrained but evocative red- what. Acid Inc Selections. —A.K. lect Wine Estates. —A.K. plicated, but definitely not simple, this provides Höpler 2009 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). away just a hint of white pepper, dark plum and currant and cranberry fruit. Overtones of peony and abv: 13.5% Price: $34 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 exciting fruit and is easy to drink on its own. Circo 83 Gentle red-cherry fruit, soft and pliable floral notes of peony—this richly purple wine gives iris make this more intriguing, while there is sub- Vino. —A.K. tannins and fresh acidity combine to make this a up more of its secrets on the palate, revealing ripe stance despite its light body. This is delicious now, Hannes Reeh 2012 Unplugged Zweigelt (Bur- Pittnauer 2011 Ungerberg Blaufränkisch abv: 14% Price: $23 simple and cheerful light red for drinking now. USA plum fruit and sweeter spice from oak. Tannins are but will reward cellaring for one to two years to let 89 genland). Black, ripe elderberries, with 89 (Burgenland). Ripe, sweet blueberries, Wine Imports. —A.K. plentiful, ripe and supple, while lovely pepperiness earthy, tertiary flavors develop. Drink from 2014. a tart but supple body make this an appetizing, black pepper and refreshing acidity make this an Esterházy 2011 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). abv: 13.5% Price: $24 carries through from start to finish. Weygandt-Met- Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. lighter wine that holds an unusual aromatic inten- incredibly appetizing wine. In sheer, unadulterated 87 A fine-boned, graceful structure currently zler. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 sity. There is an intriguing hint of wilderness and a drinkability, this scores so well: It’s fresh-faced and takes the limelight, with extracted but ripe tannins. Kirnbauer 2011 Blaufränkisch (Mittelburgen- abv: 13% Price: $NA streak of fresh acidity that makes this soft wine an uncomplicated but very moreish. Magellan Wine With time, blackberry fruit and some undergrowth 82 land). Very primary, with tart blackberry Leth 2011 Gigama Grande Reserve Zweigelt ideal match for lighter foods. Drink this while it’s Imports. —A.K. flavors come to the forefront. There are layers of fruit and a slim, refreshing body, suggesting that Stift Klosterneuburg 2011 Reserve St. Lau- 91 (Wagram-Donauland). An unusually round- young and vibrant. Acid Inc Selections. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $59 iron-oxide, white pepper and subtle cinnamon. this young wine could also work well chilled when 89 rent (Thermenregion). Gentle and elegant ed, fuller-bodied Zweigelt in a rather successful abv: 14% Price: $34 Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. its lively, uncomplicated nature will show best. red cherry and plum smooth out the structured marriage with oak. Cinnamon, clove and vanilla Prieler 2011 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). Ini- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —A.K. body of this concentrated, medium-bodied wine. flesh out the fresh cherry and blackberry flavors to Anton Bauer 2011 Alte Reben Zweigelt (Wa- 89 tially reticent, with just a hint of ground abv: 13% Price: $12 Initially closed, this invites further inspection and result in a harmonious, appetizing wine with sup- 88 gram-Donauland). Fresh, friendly, straight- white pepper that also persists on the palate, this Iby 2011 Hochäcker Blaufränkisch (Mittel- conversation with the promise of plush fruit and ple, ripe tannins and a resonant finish. Domaine forward red cherry fruit on the nose and palate, elegant and sleek red convinces with concentration 87 burgenland). Mocha and bitter chocolate a subdued, velvety finish. Leopold Imports LLC. Select Wine Estates. —A.K. extend with pleasing concentration and a supple, of forest berries rather than with power. Its fine- are dominant on the nose, and while the body is ST. LAURENT —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $70 balanced body. Peppery spice lurks in the back- tuned acidity makes it perfect for the table, while rich, fresh acidity outlines the contours of a slen- abv: 14% Price: $NA ground against a tightly-knit, but soft tannic struc- the soft tannins mean that it does not necessarily der body. Blueberries follow later while soft tannins Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Frauenfeld St. Birgit Braunstein 2011 Goldberg Zweigelt ture providing additional interest and making this need fatty meat. Its peppery finish is delicious. Mi- make this a versatile player on the table. Domaine 93 Laurent (Thermenregion). A very intriguing Bründlmayer 2011 Ladner St. Laurent (Nie- 90 (Burgenland). Crushed boysenberry is a versatile, fruitful and refreshing wine. Prescott chael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. Select Wine Estates. —A.K. nose of fresh dill and dried anise gives this plenty of 88 derösterreich). Subtle pepper and under- foremost on the nose and palate, while a rounded, Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 aromatic lift, following through on the concentrat- growth notes play as strongly of a role as the gentle supple but defined structure makes this a winning abv: 14% Price: $18 ed palate where ripe cherries join. Oak tannins lend red currant fruit in this understated, lighter-bodied choice for subtle foods. There is both elegance and Prieler 2011 Johanneshöhe Blaufränkisch Markowitsch 2011 Blaufränkisch (Carnun- additional structure but never dominate. While but spicy wine. Made in a very traditional vein, it length and a lovely, integrated touch of well-han- Nastl 2011 Gigant Zweigelt (Niederösterre- 89 (Burgenland). A concentrated palate of 87 tum). Ripe black cherries and ground black lovely now, this will certainly gain from a year or is an unobtrusive, versatile red for lighter lunches dled oaky vanilla. —A.K. 87 ich). A wine that gives us the heady, pure black cherry and wild blueberry combine to give a pepper are just hinted at on the nose, but come out two in the cellar. Its soft, but full body is a triumph. where its pepperiness will score extra points. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA freshness of crushed, wild blackberries. Unadul- full-fruited midpalate, with supple tannins and a in full force on the palate. There also is an intrigu- Drink from 2016–2020. Circo Vino. Cellar Selec- abv: 13% Price: $NA terated, primary fruit is the main appeal of this re- juicy, moreish freshness. This strikes a convincing ing edge of nutmeg and lovely, food-friendly acidity. tion. —A.K. Kurt Angerer 2011 Granit Zweigelt (Nied- freshing wine. Drink this young and enjoy its lively balance between rounded richness and refreshing This is a wine that will work in most situations— abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Judith Beck 2011 Schafleiten St. Laurent (Bur- 90 erösterreich). An inviting combination of burst of lingering berry flavor. Wine Without Bor- lightness. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. accommodating, friendly and ready to drink now. 87 genland). Black cherry, dark-fleshed plums aromatic cinnamon with primary plum fruit that ders. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $23 Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Holzspur St. Lau- and black pepper hints are mellowed by the rich resembles a spiced plum tart straight out of the abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 93 rent (Thermenregion). The appetizing and overtones of new oak, while a seam of acidity keeps oven—simply irresistible. There is tannic texture Wohlmuth 2012 Hochberg Blaufränkisch enticing savoriness of freshly chopped dill runs like everything trim and fresh. This medium-bodied and a concentrated, aromatic core of plummy de- R&A Pfaffl 2012 Austrian Cherry Zweigelt 89 (Burgenland). Notes of juicy black cherries, Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2011 Blaufränkisch a faultline through this concentrated, yet elegant wine is approachable with a tangy black olive edge liciousness. A versatile food wine, especially where 87 (Niederösterreich). Enticing white pepper a velvety texture and streamlined acidity make this 87 (Carnuntum). Tart cranberry fruit is the de- red. Ripe cherry hides behind the straightening tan- and medium length. VOS Selections. —A.K. there are fruity accents. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. mingles with ripe, red plums creating a savory, light a lip-smackingly lively wine, with a svelte but toned fining character here and is in tune with the tight, nins of oak and waits to burst out as this softens abv: 12.5% Price: $37 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA bodied red, soft in tannins that are very moreish. body. It is the sort of wine you are looking for when slender body and the refreshing acidity. This has with a little bottle age. Very finely-knit tannins ex- Its lightness enlivens while new fragrant facets of the food is hearty but not heavy—this red will be an ample elegance and a light touch. Martine’s Wines. tend a gentle grip and frame a compelling, layered Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Haidegrund St. Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Luck- cherry fruit are revealed over time. Not an obvious elegant accompaniment. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. wine. Drink from 2016–2020. Circo Vino. —A.K. 86 Laurent (Niederösterreich). Fresh redcur- 90 enwald Zweigelt (Neusiedlersee). Toasty wine, but clearly full of charm. Palm Bay Interna- —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $90 rant flavors peek through subtle French oak tones, oak and backed structure appear first, with lots of tional. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 all balanced nicely by bright acidity. Lighter-bodied charming cherry fruit and savory notes of under- abv: 13% Price: $14 growth, inside. Tightly knit and well made, with a

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 35

BUYINGGUIDE

Arndorfer 2011 Die Leidenschaft Zweigelt Zantho 2011 Reserve Zweigelt (Burgenland). say that deeper berry fruit does not slumber in the structure. Understated, but true Pinot-pleasure is olate, with mere edges of cinnamon, dance on the 86 (Niederösterreich). Savory notes slowly 85 Mild black cherry fruit languidly balances PINOT NOIR depths. This still has to come out of its shell and is in the glass. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. palate. Drink 2016–2020. Winebow. —A.K. unfold—almost like the umami-touch of soy sauce soft freshness and light tannins. This is a playful red best served with subtle, nuanced food that will mir- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $55 —amidst the dark cherry fruit, while juicy accents for easy drinking and entertaining. Drink this while Umathum 2011 Unter den Terassen Pinot Noir ror its intriguing nature. This will certainly blossom suggest this should be paired with Asian cuisine. it’s fresh and lusciously soft. Vin Divino. —A.K. 93 (Burgenland). Once coaxed out of the glass, in a year or two. Ready from 2015. —A.K. Weingut Mayer am Pfarrplatz 2011 Nuss- Judith Beck 2011 Pannobile (Burgenland). Try this with five-spice roast ribs or pork belly and abv: 13.5% Price: $16 there is something ethereal about this Pinot Noir in abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 berg Pinot Noir (Vienna). The color belies 92 Brooding flavors of dark cherry and pure plum sauce. Structured, slightly grippy tannins and its compelling, lifted nose of elderberry, wild rasp- the deep cherry fruit at the core of this lithe wine, cocoa initially play on the palate, but it slowly fresh acidity keep everything in check. Indie Win- Judith Beck 2012 Zweigelt (Burgenland). A berry and aromatic nettle. It is deceptively light on Markowitsch 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Car- grown on Vienna’s Nussberg slope. Carefully framed opens up to reveal a deceptive lightness. The body eries. —A.K. 84 mix of blackberry and red currant flavors the surface with translucent veils of silky tannins 90 nuntum). The vanilla and cookie-dough by oak, smoky cinnamon dusts the tart cherry fla- is sleek yet concentrated, with super-soft tannins. abv: 14% Price: $NA play on the nose and palate. Fruit is undoubtedly that draw you in. While there is engaging verve right lick of toasty oak lends softness, warmth and spice vor and lends an unexpected plumpness. Hints of With haunting edges of cherries preserved in kirsch the core of this wine, with easy tannin and fresh now, this will come into its own once time has re- to the red currant fruit of this slender, but elegant smoke and raspberry make you go back for more. and bitter chocolate, this is an intriguing, elegant Zull 2012 Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). Cher- acidity channelling it into a pleasant, fruity red for vealed the deeper layers of fruit. Drink from 2016. wine. Slightly more bottle age is needed for fruit MS Walker. —A.K. wine that’s lovely now but will also age gracefully 86 ry, sage, blackberry and white pepper min- early drinking. VOS Selections. —A.K. Winemonger. Cellar Selection. —A.K. and wood to marry completely, but it finishes with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA through 2019. VOS Selections. —A.K. gle to make a refreshing and rounded wine ideal for abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $39 a wonderfully savory flourish of pepper and under- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 uncomplicated pleasure. Drink now, preferably with growth. Ready from 2015. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. Zull 2011 Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). Mo- canapés or a light lunch where its beautiful and res- Sepp Moser 2011 Hedwighof Zweigelt (Ne- Anton Bauer 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wa- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 87 rello cherry is the central note here—almost Netzl 2011 Edles Tal (Carnuntum). Ripe red onant aftertaste of red cherry will impress. Magel- 84 usiedlersee). Cranberry sauce flavors and 92 gram-Donauland). Ripe, red cherry, with candied but wonderfully ripe—with a juicy, almost 92 plums, cinnamon, baked blueberry and co- lan Wine Imports. —A.K. refreshing acidity make this a very delicious wine floral notes of rose, iris and a hint of cinnamon in- Höpler 2011 Pinot Noir (Burgenland). Sub- bouncy body of fruity freshness. The acidity is coa powder make a compelling, aromatic entry. Ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $18 to be consumed young. Unhindered by oak or undue troduce this ripe and luscious wine that is already 89 dued notes of clove and pepper mixed with bright but buffered by plenty of fruit. This is huge tannins are still drying and grippy on the palate, but extraction, this shows its charming, primary fruit in surprisingly open and generous. Its gentle, fine- tart cranberry make this an appetizing, fresh-faced fun to drink, with or without food. Magellan Wine will soften with a little age and make this mellow, Bründlmayer 2011 Reserve Zweigelt (Nied- an open, uncomplicated way. This is a winner with ly-knit tannic structure will allow this to age, but red. The body is light but packs lots of flavor. What Imports. —A.K. rounded and even more luscious. Tightly structured 85 erösterreich). This has a fleshy core of red charcuterie and salami. Martin Scott Wines. —A.K. there is a pleasant, seductive mellowness already you see is what you get—in the most charming way abv: 14% Price: $39 and densely packed with fruit, the fresh acidity cherry fruit and a prominent acidic backbone, mak- abv: 13% Price: $10 in the alternating layers of spice and cherry. Drink possible. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. keeps it focused and framed. A paradigm of balance. ing this a satisfying, food-friendly wine. —A.K. from 2014–2018. Prescott Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Stift Klosterneuburg 2011 Raflerjoch Pinot Drink from 2016. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA Fritsch 2011 Red Soil Zweigelt (Wa- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 86 Noir (Vienna). Raspberry, blueberry and abv: 14% Price: $35 83 gram-Donauland). This is a simple red wine Kurt Angerer 2011 Pinot Noir (Niederöster- black­berry, with a hint of dark chocolate, are first Forstreiter 2011 ZVY-GELT Zweigelt (Nied- with cherry notes and lively acidity striking a bal- Fischer 2011 Premium Pinot Noir (Thermen- 89 reich). Primary red-cherry notes charm the apparent. On the palate, this is slender, fruity and Preisinger 2011 Paradigma (Burgenland). 85 erösterreich). Light-bodied, straightforward ance between primary freshness and appetizing 92 region). Everything about this wine is sub- nose, while gentle vanilla and hints of oak, flowers fresh—a very charming and subtle Pinot Noir for 92 Dark chocolate, black cherry and a hint of red, with blackberry aromas, this wine could be ac- acidity. Great for any occasion where an approach- tle—in an orchestra, this would be the harp. The and clove build a framework. There is some grip in light lunches or the picnic basket. Leopold Imports raspberry fill the nose and palate, with secondary centuated with chilling and is a solution for cuisine able red wines needs to complement a range of cui- balance between red berry and cherry, medium this medium-bodied wine, thanks to the finely-wo- LLC. —A.K. floral hints. This blend of Blaufränkisch and Merlot such as mixed charuterie platters or liver terrines. A sine styles. The body is soft, easy and calls for early body and fine acidity is supreme. There are notions ven tannins. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA is slender but muscular, with immense structure, friendly, uncomplicated red made for the moment, drinking. Monika Caha Selections. —A.K. of peppery undergrowth and the firm hold of finely abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ripe tannin and en edge of iron-oxide. It has the with gracious, cheerful fruitiness. Frederick Wild- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 woven tannin. This aromatic, disciplined wine will graceful but strong physique of a male ballet danc- man & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.K. break out of its corset in time and display autum- Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 The Pinot RED BLENDS er. Drink 2016–2020. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. abv: 13% Price: $10 Fritsch 2011 Vom Donaulöss Zweigelt (Nied- nal leaves and fruit—the persistent length is most 89 Puzzle Pinot Noir (Burgenland). This is one —A.K. 83 erösterreich). A simple wine full of red cher- promising. Ready to drink from 2016. Vignaioli Se- of those Pinot Noirs that play hide and seek with Anton Bauer 2011 Reserve (Wagram-Donau- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Lenz Moser 2012 Zweigelt (Niederösterre- ry flavors on the nose and palate, with an enticing lection. —A.K. you: is that violet or rose? Is it Bing cherry or Am- 93 land). The poised, clean and lifted wild 85 ich). A light-bodied, uncomplicated red white pepper edge that makes it very refreshing. abv: 13.5% Price: $37 arena? There is red currant and cherry fruit at the black-cherry fruit mixed with notions of cocoa Esterházy 2011 Estoras (Burgenland). Struc- without pretension that persuades with frank, red This could be chilled and is an ideal, lighter-style center, with overtones of oak, bright acidity and forms the aromatic theme. A very elegant wine, 91 tured tannins dominate this blend of Blau- currant fruit. It is fresh, friendly and a red that red for informal entertainment. Monika Caha Selec- Fritsch 2011 ’P’ Pinot Noir (Wagram-Donau- gentle tannins. This will perform best if served with with medium body and alluring depth, it’s current- fränkisch, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon right could easily be served slightly chilled. This is defi- tions. —A.K. 92 land). Very subtle but ultimately seductive food. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. ly tight and held firmly by structured, ripe tannins, now, but dense yet sleeping plummy fruit and oaky nitely for drinking now. Niche Import Company. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA wild cherry notes captivate on the nose, while the abv: 13% Price: $30 while the acidity is bright and refreshing. With its spice are waiting in the background for their time —A.K. body is luscious, rounded, generous and inviting, youthful primary fruit, this is charming, but even to shine. This will relax into something slinky and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Netzl 2012 Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt (Car- without an ounce of fat. There are hints of clove Leth 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wa- a year or two will make this more pretty than it is fruitful if you have the patience to wait a year or 83 nuntum). With refreshingly tart blackberry and anise, a deep, mellow cherry core and haunting 88 gram-Donauland). Here’s a rather slender right now. Prescott Wines. —A.K. two; drink after 2016. Wein-Bauer Distributing. Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2011 Blauer Zwei- fruit, this Zweigelt has some concentration and dis- floral hints. Drink 2015–2020. Monika Caha Selec- Pinot Noir, with soft cranberry fruit, hints of smoky abv: 14% Price: $25 —A.K. 85 gelt Zweigelt (Burgenland). This shows the plays a good balance between light body, refreshing tions. —A.K. mocha and a little clove. There is something choc- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 characteristic blue and black berry fruit of Zweigelt acidity and clean, lively fruit notes. A great party abv: 15% Price: $NA olaty, and at the same time refreshing, about this Forstreiter 2011 Das Mammut (Niederös- in a very, light-bodied and soft style. Matured in wine. Select Wines. —A.K. wine, and the tannins are silky-soft in a light and re- 92 terreich). Rich, compact and dense fruit is Gerhard Pittnauer 2011 Pannobile (Burgen- large barrels, this is a fun, lighter-style wine and a abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Bründlmayer 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Nied- strained body. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.K. packed into this elegant, medium-weight blend of 91 land). A compelling mix of white pepper and versatile food matcher. Frederick Wildman & Sons, 90 erösterreich). Smoky cinnamon dominates abv: 14% Price: $35 Zweigelt, St. Laurent and Roesler. It presents power crushed blackberry with seams of black tar form Ltd. —A.K. Preisinger 2012 Zweigelt (Burgenland). the nose, on the palate where notes of red currant without heaviness and a harmonious interplay of the bouquet of this wine. They are united in a soft abv: 13% Price: $NA 83 While rather closed on the nose, this fresh, and cranberry become apparent. The palate is tight- Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Alte Haide Pinot kirsch and red cherry, with hints of sleek tannins but still medium-weight body, with a streamlined straightforward red shows ripe, red cherry on the ly gathered in its finely constructed, tannic frame. 88 Noir (Niederösterreich). The gentle red cur- and fresh acidity. Intriguing layers of cherry and freshness. This is as elegant, polished and well- Steininger 2011 Novemberlese Zweigelt (Nie- palate with a generous, rounded mouthfeel and soft Time in glass reveals riper cherry fruit at the heart. rant and raspberry fruit in this subtly oaked red spice lay in wait. Ready from 2016. Frederick Wild- made. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. 85 derösterreich). Lively, fresh notes of black- tannins. Uncomplicated and for immediate drink- In two to three years it will mellow and show its lurks amid notes of spicy pepper, undergrowth and man & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $44 berry and red cherry are immediately apparent on ing. Circo Vino. —A.K. true aromatic colors. The substance is evident now, autumn leaves. There is a gentle grip and a very nat- abv: 14% Price: $34 the palate. Fruit takes center stage here, thus the abv: NA Price: $23 but the aromas bid you to wait. Ready from 2016. ural, unforced sense of elegance to the structure. Gerhard Pittnauer 2012 Pitti (Burgenland). wine should be drunk young while fresh and in its Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 Pannobile 91 Layers of Amarena and Bing cherry play hide prime. It is honest and friendly, with a light body Zantho 2012 Zweigelt (Burgenland). Expan- abv: 13.5% Price: $63 abv: 13% Price: $36 92 (Burgenland). Silky, cherry-fruited elegance and seek with hints of mulberry on the plump, vel- and spicy hints of white pepper in the background. 82 sive cherry fruit make for a broad palate. A and a caressing subtlety make this a winner in the vety midpalate. There are suspicions of sweet vanil- Select Wines. —A.K. generous body falls in line with fresh acidity and Loimer 2011 Anning Pinot Noir (Niederöster- Markowitsch 2011 Pinot Noir (Carnuntum). sleekness stakes. There is freshness and perfectly la and some anise. With such soft, mellow fruit and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ripeness to result in an easy-drinking party wine. 90 reich). It is white pepper rather than fruit 87 Fleshy cherry and a broad palate character- pitched balance, with soft yet structured tannins. smooth, ripe tannins, this is incredibly seductive Vin Divino. —A.K. that pervades the nose and palate on this wine, ize this wine. There is palpable warmth and easy Seductive notes of Amarena cherry and dark choc- and approachable right now, although it also has abv: 13% Price: $13 displaying a tight grip and slender body—not to fruit, but they’re underneath a tight and sound

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 37

BUYINGGUIDE

the stuffing to age beautifully. Magellan Wine Im- vignon, hints of white pepper and bay leaf frame Zull 2011 Schrattenthal 9 (Niederösterreich). unfold on the palate. This would be ideal for picnics and tropical fruit flavors, all balanced with telltale ports. —A.K. the just-ripe, crunchy damson-plum aroma. Tight, 89 Initially closed, this opens up beautifully and light lunches. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. Greek acidity. Balanced and well made, and a good abv: 13.5% Price: $15 finely-knit tight tannins make for a lasting structure in the glass and is smooth, soft and approachable. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 pairing with fruit, salads and seafood. Fantis Im- that can mature, while the acidity keeps this classy Floral elderberry and ripe blackberry aromas follow ports, Inc. —S.K. Papaioannou 2005 Microclima Agiorgitiko Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Nit’ana and fresh. The dark, brooding plum flavor plays in through to the juicy, succulent midpalate. A lovely, Loimer 2011 Schellmann An der Südbahn abv: 13.5% Price: $12 90 (Nemea). This is a delicious example of 91 (Burgenland). Warm, cinnamon-spiced blue- the background and culminates in a spicy, peppery linear acidity guarantees freshness and lively bal- 82 (Niederösterreich). A straightforward red, what Agiorgitiko should be—complex but delicate, berry and plum flood the palate, while approachable finish. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. ance. This is not without structure despite its invit- with ripe cherry flavor and lively freshness in a Spyros Hatziyiannis 2011 Assyrtico (Santori- fresh but full of flavor. The nose starts with vibrant and supple tannins charm their way from start to abv: 14% Price: $40 ing softness. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. light, soft body. It’s uncomplicated, but easy drink- 86 ni). Aromas of sea salt, pineapple and citrus cassis, cherry and plum aromas, followed by flavors long finish. This has wonderful balance of structure, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ing. —A.K. start this lively . It offers a fresh mineral of blackcurrant, pepper, cherry and cinnamon that fruit and medium-full body. This has huge charm Weingut Christ 2011 XXI (Vienna). Freshly abv: 13% Price: $NA character rounded by tropical fruit. Friendly and are rounded and layered. The wine ends with a live- right now and is very seductive, but it will also 90 ground white pepper and big, chewy, struc- Hannes Reeh 2012 Heideboden Rot (Burgen- not fussy. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. ly mineral spin. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. age well, if you can wait. Wein-Bauer Distributing. tured tannins speak loudly in this blend of Merlot 88 land). Toasty mocha and coffee-bean aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 —A.K. and Cabernet Sauvignon. Ample plum, cherry and mas play around the nose before the dark plum fruit OTHER RED WINES abv: 13.5% Price: $25 rich, oaky spice follow. Bright acidity keeps it fresh hits the palate, where the mocha theme continues. Hatzidakis Winery 2009 Nikteri Assyrtico Papaioannou 2004 Terroir Agiorgitiko and lively. A slow burner but well worth waiting for; Luscious, rounded and soft, this is a winner on cool Weingut Christ 2011 Shiraz (Vienna). Black 85 (Santorini). This white has a lush character, 88 (Nemea). Savory, smoked meat and clove Wohlmuth 2012 Aristos (Burgenland). The se- ready after 2016. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. evenings, even without food—or perhaps just a little 91 olive tapenade, savory bay leaf and a tight with aromas of sweet pineapple, melon and citrus. aromas give this lively Agiorgitiko soul. Flavors of 91 ductive, aromatic lift of elderberry and black- abv: 14% Price: $NA square of dark chocolate. Acid Inc Selections. —A.K. but energetic body currently characterize this wine. Fuller bodied with ripe fruit flavors and medium leather, smoke, spice and red berry are balanced berry give way to notes of dark chocolate and plum abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Deep blueberry fruit tantalizes from behind won- acidity, this wine will pair well with richer seafood and clean. A masculine pour that will pair well with in this blend of Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Sauvi- Fischer 2011 Gradenthal (Thermenregion). derfully firm tannins in this medium-bodied, pep- and poultry dishes. Mani Imports Inc. —S.K. dried meats, steak and burgers. Fantis Imports, Inc. gnon. The palate is like a highly pixillated, sharp im- 89 Subtle Amarena cherry flavors play on nose Kirnbauer 2011 Das Phantom (Burgenland). pery number. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 15% Price: $15 —S.K. age of the finest, ripest fruit, with its tight, fine and and palate, where bitter chocolate, cinnamon and 88 Savory, peppery spice and plummy fruit abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $50 polished tannins supported by the sonorous tone of blackberry join in. Ripe tannins provide structure turn up in equal measure. This is gutsy and fruity, oak. Wein-Bauer Distributing. —A.K. while fresh, tart-fruit flavors fill the medium-weight and its bright acidity will make it a winner on the Hafner 2012 Classique Syrah (Burgenland). WHITE BLENDS Papaioannou 2006 Old Vines Single Vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 mouth. This is an accessible food wine that finishes table, where the subtle but firm tannins will also 89 Pure, ripe red cherries immediately and 86 yard Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Violet, crushed with peppery spice. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. come in handy. A vibrant and versatile wine. H.Mer- openly charm the nose, followed by waves of rose Estate Biblia Chora 2011 Ovilos White (Pan- herb and mint aromas start this Agiorgitiko. On the Hillinger 2011 Hill 1 (Burgenland). Dense abv: 13.5% Price: $37 cer Wine & Spirit Imports. —A.K. petals before complete immersion in ripe cherry-­ 87 geon). Lemon zest, lime and melon aromas palate, coca, vanilla, red berry and a savory spin give 90 blackberry fruit and even a hint of new abv: 13.5% Price: $26 fruit flavor on the supple palate. This presents lead this elegant white blend. Zesty citrus and lush it depth. Fresh and friendly but substantive, this leather can be coaxed from the glass with the first Hillinger 2011 Hillside (Burgenland). Pure immense charm, with savory depth somewhere melon on the palate offers a refined character that wine can age. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. swirl. A toned and muscular yet still graceful body 89 crushed blackberry exudes great charm on Stift Klosterneuburg 2011 Escorial (Ther- between white pepper and dried bay leaf. Kosher. is nonetheless fine for everyday enjoyment. The fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 gives equal measures of fruit and supporting oak. the nose and plays alongside toasty oak notes on the 88 menregion). This blend of St. Laurent, Apollo Fine Spirits. Best Buy. —A.K. ish is expressive and slightly floral. Cava Spiliadis. The tannins are fine and there is statuesque poise palate. Neither ripeness, nor juiciness, nor muscle Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon offers glossy, pol- abv: 14% Price: $13 —S.K. Tsantali 2009 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). This of a very well-cut wine, like an Italian-tailored suit, allow for even one ounce of fat here. Toned and con- ished plum fruit that is still closed now, but prom- abv: 13.5% Price: $38 86 wine has a savory overall character, with elegant yet masculine. This drinks well already but centrated fruitiness, with soft tannins and bright ises to come to the fore after some cellaring. Great clove, cinnamon and plum on the nose and espresso, will be even better in two to three years’ time; drink acidity, result in an enticing wine. Select Wines. concentration on the midpalate, fresh acidity and GREECE A. Parparoussis 2008 Les Dons de Dionysos red fruit and leather on the palate. A balanced spin through 2018. Select Wines. —A.K. —A.K. finely-woven tannins also bode well for the future 86 Barrel Fermented Assyrtiko-Athiri (Achaia). of minerals gives it lift. Pair with roast lamb or poul- abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 of this wine. There is a mineral, gravelly, spicy back- ASSYRTICO A nose of fresh-cut flowers, tropical fruit and mel- try. A great deal and a good wine. Fantis Imports, ground that promises more interest and aromat- on leads this barrel-fermented white blend . On the Inc. Best Buy. —S.K. Markowitsch 2011 Rosenberg (Carnuntum). Nastl 2011 Klassik Cuvée (Niederösterreich). ic layers. Ready from 2016. Leopold Imports LLC. Cellars 2011 Assyrtico (Santo- palate, the wine has a lovely floral character but abv: 12.5% Price: $10 90 Toasty vanilla and cinnamon aromas mingle 89 Wild, black cherry mixed with ripe red —A.K. 89 rini). Fresh, clean and elegant aromas of lacks some of the minerality that gives Greek whites with densely packed note of blueberry, blackberry plum and wonderfully crunchy, fresh tannins make abv: 13.5% Price: $NA citrus and flowers start this classic Assyrtiko. On their lively touch. Pair with fish or cheeses. Cava Tsantali 2008 Réserve Agiorgitiko (Nemea). and plum. The weighted midpalate is supported by this exuberant and vibrant. The fruit is so frank, the palate, balanced flavors of lemon, sea salt and Spiliadis. —S.K. 85 Plum, cherry and mint on the nose are fol- structured yet ripe tannins and an interesting meaty you almost forget that there also is a great structure Arndorfer 2012 Vorgeschmack (Niederöster- white fruits offer food-friendly, quaffable character. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 lowed with black pepper, cherry and spice flavors streak. Drink from 2015. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. and pleasing freshness. This blend of Zweigelt and 87 reich). Black cherry, a savory overtone of A fantastic . Nestor Imports. Best Buy. on the palate. Pair with grilled lamb, cheeses. Fantis abv: 14% Price: $NA Merlot is deceptively easy to drink and so attractive. dried thyme and a hint of dark chocolate are met —S.K. Oenogenesis 2011 En Oeno... Sauvignon Imports, Inc. —S.K. Wine Without Borders. —A.K. with lively, pervading acidity, which keeps this on abv: 12.5% Price: $14 86 Blanc-Assyrtiko (Macedonia). This As- abv: 13% Price: $17 Netzl 2011 Anna-Christina (Carnuntum). abv: 13% Price: $NA the trim and lighter side but also makes it ideal as syrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc blend offers a zesty, poppy 90 Toast and caramel notes mingle with mo- a versatile, approachable and complementary food Wine Art Estate 2011 Idisma Drios Assyrti- Sauvignon Blanc nose with pineapple, fresh peach cha and dark plum flavors, resulting in a sleek wine Preisinger 2011 Pannobile (Burgenland). wine. Indie Wineries. —A.K. 88 co (Drama). Spice, vanilla and cinnamon and a mineral spin on the palate. Balanced acidity RED BLENDS with soft yet palpable tannins. As it opens up, soft 89 Notes of dark, luscious cherry dominates abv: 13.5% Price: $NA aromas speak to the oak aging on this fresh white. keeps it steady. Likeable and enjoyable, but not in- plum and cherry fruit is revealed. The concentrated the nose and mouth of this wine, with an enlivening On the palate, robust, yet refreshing flavors of tellectual. Eklektikon, LLC. —S.K. Tsantali 2010 Reserve (Rapsani). This ap- midpalate also signals that this will age and develop freshness and vibrancy. The palate is textured with Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2011 Reserve (Ther- fresh white fruits and vanilla offer complexity with abv: 12.5% Price: $25 91 pealing red starts with a nose bursting with well. Select Wines. —A.K. fine, ripe tannins, followed by an elegant, silky af- 86 menregion). Blackberries, black cherries food-friendly zest. Distinctive Imports LLC. —S.K. exotic tobacco, cocoa and red berries, followed by a abv: 14% Price: $55 tertaste. Circo Vino. —A.K. and elderberry form a brooding dark-fruit trio on abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Tsantali 2011 Metoxi Chromitsa X Single juicy palate of black fruit, cocoa and sweet smoke. abv: 13.5% Price: $51 the nose and mouth. The medium-weight palate is 86 Vineyard Assyrtico-Athiri-Sauvignon Blanc The oak is obvious here, offering vanilla and spicy Tinhof 2011 Noir (Burgenland). Freshness fresh, supple and concentrated, without heaviness. My Big Fat Greek Wine 2011 Assyrtico (Santo- (Agioritikos). Candied lemon and lush tropical notes, but the round fruit character keeps the wine 90 and approachability, with lovely, full-fruit- Stift Klosterneuburg 2011 Chorus (Ther- A happy, fruity marriage of St. Laurent and Pinot 87 rini). Aromas of pineapple, white fruit and fruits start this Assyrtiko, Athiri blend from an es- in check. Elegant and fun. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. ed red cherry, are the hallmarks of this very bal- 89 menregion). Ripe, juicy strawberries dust- Noir. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. apple start this likeable white from Santorini. Cit- tablished producer in northern Greece. Fresh, fun abv: 13.5% Price: $23 anced, soft and friendly wine. There is more to it edwith baking-spice accents of anise, vanilla and abv: 13.5% Price: $NA rus, tropical fruit and apple flavors on the palate and slightly sweet on the palate, the wine has a soft- than the forward fruit suggests: luscious depth, cinnamon dominate the bouquet. With a dollop of are fuller bodied but still lively. A solid white for er, more feminine touch than many Greek whites. Chatzivariti 2010 Staphylus -­ supple body and a lasting finish. Carlo Huber Se- sweet oak, an approachable, plump body and a long, Zull 2012 Lust & Laune (Niederösterreich). everyday enjoyment. Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. Great with lighter fare like salads and grilled sea- 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Slopes of Paiko). lections. —A.K. spicy aftertaste, this is soft, mellow and ready to en- 86 This is light, easygoing and very fruity, with abv: 13.5% Price: $15 food. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. This Xinomavro/Cabernet blend is elegant and ap- abv: 13% Price: $NA joy. Leopold Imports LLC. —A.K. plenty of fresh red-cherry character and zingy, live- abv: 12% Price: $25 proachable, with aromas of vanilla, tobacco and all- abv: 14% Price: $NA ly acidity. Waves of Amarena and Morello cherries Papaioannou 2011 St. Elias Vineyards Dry spice and flavors of black cherry, cigarbox and wild Weingut Christ 2011 Mephisto (Vienna). A 86 White Assyrtico (Corinthia). Lemon pre- black fruits. Integrated and smooth, with a leath- 90 blend of Zweigelt, Merlot, Cabernet Sau- serve and melon aromas are followed by peach er spin on the end. Pair with grilled, spiced meats

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 39

BUYINGGUIDE

or ripe cheeses. Eklektikon, LLC. Editors’ Choice. blend. On the palate, the wine is elegant and laced My Big Fat Greek Wine 2010 Xinomavro (Her- Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Missionvale Char- KWV 2011 The Mentors Chardonnay (Elgin). green plum, lime peel and a touch of dried grass. —S.K. with clove, mushroom and bright berry flavors. A 85 aklion). This Xinomavro offers red cherry, 90 donnay (Walker Bay). Aromas of wood- 85 Direct aromas of lime, green apple, melon It’s brisk and clean on the palate, with refreshing abv: 13% Price: $22 unique wine at an unbeatable price. Fantis Imports, spice and black pepper aromas and layers of smoke, grilled peach, baked apple and sweet orange oil waft rind and pressed flowers unfold in the bouquet, acidity and a mouthwatering finish. Drink up. KWV Inc. Best Buy. —S.K. vanilla and plucky spice on the palate. Approach- from the glass, all laced with threads of toasted oak while flavors of orange zest, sweet spice and mel- Int’l. —L.B. Estate Biblia Chora 2007 Ovilos Red (Pan- abv: 12% Price: $8 able and great for everyday drinking think lamb gy- and baking spice. The ample acidity keeps the palate on flesh develop on the palate. The medium-weight abv: 13.5% Price: $18 90 geon). Blueberry, vanilla and cedar aromas ros or short ribs. Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. lively and the finish fresh, although the woody ac- mouth could use a bit more lift, as could the flat start this rich, luxuriant red. On the palate, savory Tsantali 2008 Metoxi Chromitsa Limnio-Cab- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 cents dominate the close once the ripe fruit flavors finish. KWV Int’l. —L.B. Nederburg 2011 The Winemaker’s Reserve cigarbox and caramel flavors meld with bright red 87 ernet Sauvignon (Agioritikos). Leather, dry subside. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $72 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Coastal Region). There’s fruits and sweet vanilla. The wine finishes dry and spice rub and crushed green herb aromas start this abv: 13.5% Price: $30 an oaky edge to this attractive Sauvignon Blanc, will pair beautifully with lamb and beef dishes. Limnio/Cabernet blend from northern Greece. On SOUTH AFRICA with sweet-spice notes that accent the ripe-fruit Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. the palate, the wine is spicy and dry, with earthy Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Crocodile’s Lair aromas and flavors of peach, apple and melon. Me- abv: 14% Price: $55 undertones of spicebox and forest floor. Pair with CHARDONNAY 90 Kaaimansgat Chardonnay (Overberg). This dium weight and clean, with a touch of menthol that lamb or robust cheeses. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. leads with oak-derived aromas of sweet smoke, DeMorgenzon 2011 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- unfolds on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.Best Domaine Gerovassiliou 2008 Avaton (Ep- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Kaaimansgat Limit- toast, vanilla and baking spice, immediately fol- 90 bosch). Clean, focused aromas of lem- Buy. —L.B. 89 anomi). This Limnio, Mavrotragano and 91 ed Edition Chardonnay (Overberg). This wine lowed by notes of lemon custard, melon and pear on custard, green melon, lanolin and beeswax abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Mavroud blend is fun and fruity but at the same Tsantali 2009 Metoxi X Single Vineyard boasts a lot of character and evolution, and is lay- flesh. The mouthfeel is round and full, but zippy are framed by hints of white flowers and crushed time, offers some serious character. Smoked sau- 86 Xinomavro-Limnio-Cabernet Sauvignon ered and complex. The bouquet leads with aromas acidity rescues the finish from feeling flat or over- mineral. It’s round and full in the mouth, but with sage, fennel and clove on the nose lead into flavors (Mount Athos). Allspice, violet and plucky red ber- of hay, beeswax, orange oil, wood-grilled apple and done. An attractive toasted hazelnut flavor lingers enough acidic lift to enliven the fruit flavors on the PINOTAGE of vanilla, red fruit and savory spice on the palate. ry aromas lead this Xinomavro-Limnio-Cabernet sweet spice. Medium weight, but with ample acidity well through the finish. Terry Seitz. —L.B. palate. This is drinking well now and should be en- Balanced, with good tannic and acidic structure. blend. Flavors of plum, leather, cinnamon and pep- to keep it balanced, rich fruit flavors are accented by abv: 13.5% Price: $26 joyed over the next year. Cape Classics. —L.B. Simonsig 2011 Redhill Pinotage (Stellen- Ageable. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. per are balanced and subtle. A good everyday bottle notes of toast and wood that carry through the long abv: 14% Price: $35 92 bosch). For full review see page 7. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $55 that will pair well with burgers, steak and mush- finish. It’s drinking perfectly now, but should last Springfield Estate 2009 Méthode Ancienne Choice. room dishes. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. well through 2015. Terry Seitz. —L.B. 89 Chardonnay (Robertson). A mature selec- Morgenhof 2011 Estate Chenin Blanc (Stel- abv: 14% Price: $36 Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Biblinos Oenos abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $37 tion by now, this offers initial scents of cantaloupe, 87 lenbosch). This is a ripe and fruity selection, 89 (Pangeon). Blackberry, plum, balsamic and mango and yellow flowers, with secondary hints of boasting forward notes of tropical fruit, peach, yel- Simonsig 2010 Redhill Pinotage (Stellen- leather aromas give this red blend an indigenous, Tsantali 2008 Kanenas Maronia Vineyards Buitenverwachting 2011 Chardonnay (Con- toasted nuts and brioche. It’s balanced and layered, low melon and juicy orange. Pineapple and peach 90 bosch). Scents of ripe black cherry and masculine character. On the palate, a heady blend of 85 Mavroudi-Syrah (Ismarikos). A perfumed 91 stantia). Despite its age, this white still of- with subtle oak and leesy accents intertwined with flavors dominate the medium-weight mouth, ending raspberry are at the center of the bouquet, with tobacco, spice and pomegranate flavors are buoyed nose of violet, black cherry and cedar give this fers upfront ripe-fruit aromas of citrus, pear and pure, ripe fruit flavors. Enjoy this now while the bright and clean thanks to ample final acidity. Drink attractive accents of fudgy brownie, caramel, coffee by balanced acidity. Pair with grilled meats, hearty Syrah-Mavroudi blend a seductive start. On the apple, but is graced with additional complex ac- primary fruit is still shining. Vinecraft Distribution up. Terry Seitz. —L.B. and baking spice. The palate boasts a velvety tex- soups, or charred dishes. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. palate, black fruit and spice flavors are balanced, cents of hazelnut, toasted oak, orange blossom, lan- LLC. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 ture, with medium tannins and a lush, ripe black- abv: 14% Price: $35 but not overly complex. A solid everyday red with olin and soft, chalky minerality. Pineapple, fig and abv: 14% Price: $42 fruit core. Hints of cured meat and toasty mocha indigenous appeal, and a great match for pasta with apple-flesh flavors fill the palate, with a smooth, Vinum Africa 2011 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- linger long on the close. Quintessential Wines. Estate Biblia Chora 2009 Red (Pangeon). red sauces, pizza or steak. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. creamy mouthfeel and ample acidic lift to the Elgin Vintners 2010 Third Edition Chardon- 87 bosch). Here’s a fresh, easygoing and acces- —L.B. 88 Spicy black pepper, smoke and crushed abv: 13.5% Price: $20 long, gently textured finish. Cape Classics. Editors’ 88 nay (Elgin). This is a ripe and seductive sible white, with bright aromas and flavors of green abv: 14% Price: $36 herb aromas give this red an exotic feel. On the pal- Choice. —L.B. Chardonnay, with great opulence to the palate and plum, orange, peach and pineapple. The palate is ate, lush red berry flavors mingle with herbs, pep- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 lush fruit characteristics of red-apple flesh, clove- light and breezy, with bright acidity that carries the Spier 2010 21 Gables Pinotage (Stellen- per and vanilla spice. A distinctive wine and a great OTHER RED WINES spiked orange and creamy pear. Hints of toasted mouthwatering finish. World Premiere Wines LLC. 90 bosch). For full review see page 11. partner to dried meats, olives and ripe cheeses. Glen Carlou 2010 Quartz Stone Single Vine- challah and sweet spice add depth and interest, —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Alpha Estate 2008 Alpha One Unfiltered 91 yard Chardonnay (Paarl). For full review see while ample acidity keeps the generous mouthfeel abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $35 92 Merlot (Florina). This Merlot from one of page 8. in line and the finish clean. Z Wines USA. —L.B. Beyerskloof 2010 Reserve Pinotage (Stel- Greece’s most exciting producers offers aromas of abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 88 lenbosch). Ripe forest-fruit aromas are up- Skouras 2008 Synoro (Peloponnese). This plum, black cherry and vanilla on the nose, followed SAUVIGNON BLANC front, easily supporting the ample woody spice and 88 Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Agiorgitkio by smooth, integrated flavors of black fruit, cinna- Hamilton Russell 2011 Chardonnay (Hemel Springfield Estate 2009 Wild Yeast Char- toasted character. The palate is fruit-forward, with blend is both authentic and versatile, with aromas mon, pepper and a spin of mint on the finish. Lay- 91 en Aarde). Still in its infancy, this is a white 88 donnay (Robertson). Despite the age of Morgenhof 2011 Estate Sauvignon Blanc the black plum core taking center stage to the lico- of strawberry, cinnamon and cedar and robust fla- ered and elegant, with good acidity for food pairing. that deserves some time in the cellar to truly har- this wine, it’s still bright and lively, with clean and 89 (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). This attrac- rice and anise accents. The fine tannins and juicy vors of mocha, cigarbox and red cherry balancing Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. monize and shine. Currently, it’s rich and woody, upfront aromas and flavors of orange citrus, white tive, bright white opens with aromas of orange, fruit flavors make this approachable and enjoyable a firm acidity. A touch of smoke and leather adds abv: 14.5% Price: $59 with assertive notes of creamy pear, apricot, red melon rind, white peach and firm pear. The palate is green apple flesh and barely-ripe white peach. The now. Total Beverage Solution. —L.B. earthy appeal. Pair with burgers or grilled lamb. Di- apple flesh, honeycomb and baking spice. The round vibrant and fresh, with mouthwatering acidity that light-weight mouth offers more of the same, along- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 amond Importers Inc. —S.K. Hatzimichalis 2008 Kapnias Vineyard Zygos and lush mouthfeel offers additional flavors of man- follows through to the toast-laced finish. Vinecraft side notes of melon rind and soft brioche. A slight abv: 14.5% Price: $28 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atalanti Valley). Aro- go and orange oil, lifted by a fine thread of acidity. Distribution LLC. —L.B. creaminess is countered by brisk acidity, ending Fairview 2010 Primo Pinotage (Paarl). Ini- mas of red fruit, vanilla and cigarbox start this Cab- Toasty spice lingers on the finish; drink after 2014. abv: 14% Price: $21 clean and refreshing. Drink now. Terry Seitz. —L.B. 88 tial brambly berry aromas are partnered Tsantali 2009 Grand Reserve Hand Picked ernet Sauvignon from Greece. Its flavors are rich Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 with hints of smoky bacon and caramel sauce. The 88 Grapes (Rapsani). Produced from indige- but balanced—cinnamon, cedar, cherry and savory abv: 13% Price: $32 KWV 2011 Classic Collection Chardonnay flavors are solid and ripe but not overdone, with nous red varieties grown on the slopes of Mt. Olym- spice—and the wine finishes clean and dry. Elegant 86 (Western Cape). For full review see page 13. Backsberg 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Coast- attractive notes of blackberry and wild cherry. pus, the Rapsani Grand Reserve starts with volup- with ageable potential. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. Bartinney 2011 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Best Buy. 88 al Region). Herbal hints of fynbos and The medium tannins and ample acidity lend good tuous aromas of blackberry, spice box and liquorice, abv: 14% Price: $24 90 Bright aromas of crisp red apple and Anjou abv: 13.5% Price: $11 white-floral accents frame the bright clemen- balance and texture to the wine, while a pleasant offering full-bodied flavors of black fruit and olive pear lead the nose of this wine, with touches of mel- tine-fruit core of this wine. Subtle notes of hay and astringency lingers on the finish. Vineyard Brands. on the palate. The fruit is well balanced by a spice My Big Fat Greek Wine 2011 Xinomavro on rind and clementine dancing in the background. Neil Ellis 2011 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). A toast add depth to the otherwise brisk and lively —L.B. and mineral backbone. A very good red for lamb, 87 (Imathia). This Xinomavro offers red cherry, It’s clean and well balanced, with lively citrus and 86 clean and bright selection, this leads with palate. This is well-balanced and drinking beauti- abv: 14% Price: $29 dried meats or stews. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. spice and black pepper aromas and layers of smoke, apple flavors. A hint of beeswax adds depth to the direct aromas of green apple, lemon and soft grass. fully now. Marquee Selections. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 vanilla and plucky spice on the palate. Approach- palate, while the finish is clean and refreshing. Cape The palate is brisk and lively, with pineapple acidity abv: 13% Price: $16 KWV 2011 Classic Collection Pinotage (West- able and great for everyday drinking—think lamb Classics. —L.B. and a tart green-plum accent. Overall, this is light, 87 ern Cape). For full review see page 13. Best Tsantali 2010 Limnio-Merlot (Halkidiki). Red gyros or short ribs. Hellas Import Limited. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 refreshing and easy drinking. Vineyard Brands. KWV 2011 Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc Buy. 87 cherry, vanilla, spicebox and a touch of flow- abv: 13% Price: $15 —L.B. 86 (Paarl). There’s a lot of character to this abv: 14.5% Price: $11 ers leads the nose on this poised Merlot/Limnio abv: 13.5% Price: $20 wine, with lively aromas and flavors of grapefruit,

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 41

BUYINGGUIDE

The Grinder 2011 Pinotage (Western Cape). on the lengthy finish. Drink now–2016. Vineyard flavors of black plum, currant and a touch of fig tured, with a velvety texture and a peppery finish. flavors of cherry, plum and currant, all laced with Matetic 2012 Corralillo Chardonnay (San 87 This is a lush, opulent and oaky Pinotage, Brands. —L.B. paste all abound on the palate. Cape Classics. —L.B. Drink now–2020. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. hints of tobacco leaf, toast and bittersweet choco- 86 Antonio). Tropical fruit aromas come with with assertive aromas of mocha, raspberry cream abv: 15% Price: $36 abv: 15% Price: $29 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 late. The mouthfeel is creamy and the tannins fine nutty, oily grittiness. The palate is full and oaky, and chocolate-covered cherry. The texture is satiny and fleeting. Terry Seitz. —L.B. while core tropical flavors are barrel driven, hon- and smooth, with medium yet fine tannins and a Mullineux 2010 Granite Syrah (Swartland). KWV 2009 Cathedral Cellar Merlot (West- KWV 2010 The Mentors Orchestra (Western abv: 15.5% Price: $26 eyed and warm. This comes across as a warm-vin- richness to the palate thanks to flavors of raspberry 92 Part of Mullineux’s new lineup of single-­ 86 ern Cape). Here’s a ripe and round Merlot, 90 Cape). A ripe and sultry selection, this of- tage wine, one with extra sweetness and an oily coulis, mocha sauce, sweet spice and just a hint of vineyard , this is a nuanced wine, requiring brimming with fruity tones of prune, date, fudgy fers upfront oak-derived notes of vanilla, toasted Robertson Winery 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon character. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. pepper. USA Wine West. —L.B. time to fully open and thought to process the depth brownie and mocha on the nose and palate. It’s nut, sweet cedar and chocolate sauce. Fruity tones 87 (Robertson). Powerful notes of tobacco leaf abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $13 of character. Earthy tones of sous bois, fynbos and lushly textured, with soft, fine tannins and a medi- of brandied cherry, mashed raspberry and blackber- and curing spice lead the bouquet of this value red forest fruit dance in the bouquet, while the me- um-length finish. KWV Int’l. —L.B. ry preserve provide a solid backbone for the woody, wine, with a backbone of cassis, black cherry and Anakena 2013 Enco Reserve Chardonnay Simonsig 2011 Pinotage (Stellenbosch). dium-weight palate offers fine-grain tannins and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 spicy character. The lush, full palate offers waves plum. Medium tannins offer grip and texture to the 85 (Leyda Valley). Dusty apple and pear aro- 86 This opens with light and bright aromas of tightly wound flavors of pepper, leather and cherry of tobacco and leather that carry through to the palate, while coffee and toasted oak flavors flood the mas are likable. This feels soft, leesy and creamy as ripe red plum and berries, with glimmers of savory skin. There’s good acidic lift to the close, followed medium-­length finish. KWV Int’l. —L.B. finish. Indigo Wine Group.Best Buy. —L.B. young Chardonnay goes, with stalky, slightly mealy herbs and menthol. Accessible and open on the pal- promptly by peppery spice. Drink now–2018. Kysela CABERNETS & BLENDS abv: 14% Price: $72 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 flavors of corn and apple. On the finish, things taste ate, the solid red-fruit core is brimming with juicy Père et Fils. —L.B. salty and briny. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. flavor, while a soft astringency unfolds on the close. abv: 13.5% Price: $128 Ernie Els 2008 Signature (Stellenbosch). Raats Family 2010 Cabernet Franc (Stellen- African Passion 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Quintessential Wines. —L.B. 92 This is a dark, dense and brooding Bor- 90 bosch). Pure and focused, Bruwer Raats’s 85 (Western Cape). Aromas of blackcurrant abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Simonsig 2011 Merindol Syrah (Stellen- deaux-style blend, comprised of 57% Cabernet love of and attention to Cabernet Franc results in a leaf, plum and pepper are apparent on the nose of Arboleda 2012 Chardonnay (Aconcagua Val- 92 bosch). This wine is immediately attractive Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 5% Mal- wine that always impresses, and is a bit of an anom- this value-priced wine. The palate is light but firm, 85 ley). Intially this smells cheesy and overtly Simonsig 2010 Pinotage (Stellenbosch). and seductive, with forward floral notes of crushed bec and 5% Cabernet Franc. Notes of cocoa, cigar aly in the world. Bright notes with flavors of red plum and cherry wrapped in oaky; with airing it’s better, albeit tropical and ul- 86 Dark fruit-skin notes of plum and cherry iris and violet that are supported by a decadent tobacco and leather jazz up the black-fruit core of of red cherry and currant unfold on the nose and astringent tannins. The finish is short, but clean. tra ripe. In the mouth, it’s chunky and borderline lead the nose of this wine, with additional hints ripe-fruit core of black raspberry, wild cherry and cassis, black plum and berry. The palate is full and mouth, with accents of ashy tobacco, foliage, pepper KWV Int’l. Best Buy. —L.B. overripe, while flavors of baked apple and soft citrus of black licorice, tobacco and fudge. Brambly fruit boysenberry. Woody tones of toasted coconut and gripping, with firm tannins that hang on tightly and just the faintest suggestion of vanilla bean. Me- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 are tropical in nature, heavily oaked and finish with flavors dominate the medium-weight palate, with vanilla add richness to the dense, fully structured through the long and slightly smoky finish. Drink dium weight, with dry, dusty tannins that lend grip banana and vanilla. Thiénot USA. —M.S. secondary hints of toasted wood and cocoa powder palate, while hints of black pepper and cocoa nib after decanting now, or enjoy through 2018. Terlato to the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 that hang-on through to the finish. Quintessential blossom on the finish. Delicious now, but should age Wines International. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $35 CHILE Wines. —L.B. well through 2018. Quintessential Wines. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $95 Château Los Boldos 2012 Vieilles Vignes abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $42 Spier 2010 Creative Block 5 (Coastal Re- CHARDONNAY 85 Chardonnay (Cachapoal Valley). After a Kanonkop 2008 Paul Sauer (Simons- 90 gion). For full review see page 11. cheesy opening, the bouquet shows tropical fruits Ernst Gouws & Co. 2011 Pinotage (Stellen- Mullineux 2010 Syrah (Swartland). This 92 berg-Stellenbosch). A blend of 69% Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Leyda 2012 Single Vineyard Falaris Hill Vine- but little more. In the mouth, this is round and 85 bosch). The aromas of this wine are ripe— 89 wine opens with a strong herbaceous char- net Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot, 88 yard Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). Peach, ap- heavy, with very ripe flavors of tropical fruits and almost overripe—with notes of mushy strawberry acter, as scents of forest floor and menthol accent this is a dense and brooding wine, with dark notes Excelsior 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rob- ple and oak aromas are true and good. This is full melon. A big, honeyed finish with vanilla and ba- and red cherry, while the palate shows more re- the red plum and cherry core. Fine tannins and me- of cassis, licorice, black plum, date and cigar-box 89 ertson). A fragrance of crushed violet adds and ripe, but it also shows minerality and vital nana flavors is quite sweet. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. straint in flavors of red currant and tart, small ber- dium weight make this an accessible wine now, with spice on the nose and in the mouth. The palate is interest to the jammy blackberry, plum and cherry acidity. Melon and tropical fruit flavors blend in abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ry. With soft tannins and medium acidity, this is hints of black pepper and licorice spice that develop firmly structured, with medium tannins and bal- fruit core of this wine. Hints of licorice root, bram- tighter and juicier apple and nectarine notes, while an easy-drinking and fruity selection that finishes on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. anced alcohol that lend the wine a crushed-velvet ble and peppery spice unfold on the creamy palate, the finish is woody but honest. Drink during 2014. Concha y Toro 2012 Marques de Casa Concha quick and clean. Vinum International. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $33 texture. Glimmers of charred oak and toasted spice with ripe yet gripping tannins that remain on the Winebow. —M.S. 85 Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). Resiny oak on abv: 13.5% Price: $14 linger long on the finish. Delicious now, but should finish. Cape Classics.Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 top of tropical fruit, apple and melon aromas an- Spier 2011 Vintage Selection Shiraz (West- develop more layer and nuance with time; drink abv: 14.5% Price: $10 nounce plenty of barrel influence. The mouthfeel is 89 ern Cape). Here’s a dense and concentrated through 2018. Cape Classics. —L.B. Château Los Boldos 2013 Cuvée Tradition plump and offers just enough acidity to balance out SYRAH/SHIRAZ selection at an attractive price point, with direct abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Raats Family 2010 Red Jasper (Coastal 87 Chardonnay (Cachapoal Valley). Dusty apple the wine’s high oak level. Flavors of spiced apple aromas and flavors of black plum, boysenberry, 89 Region). This Cabernet Franc-dominant aromas are nice for this level of wine. A round, solid and melon finish woody. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. Mullineux 2010 Schist Syrah (Swartland). bramble and violet. The palate is slightly lush and Rust en Vrede 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel- blend, with additional splashes of Cabernet Sau- mouthfeel is a plus, while flavors of melon, apple abv: 14% Price: $18 93 Part of Mullineux’s new lineup of single-­ creamy, but texturized by medium tannins and 91 lenbosch). Attractive fragrances of mulled vignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec, leads with earthy and nectarine come with light oak and vanilla off- vineyard Syrahs, this really expresses a sense of spicy accents of licorice and toast on the close. Total berries, cassis and black cherry lead the fruity bou- tones of menthol, black-currant leaf and tobacco. sets. A pithy, melony finish concludes this easygoing Quintay 2012 Clava Coastal Reserve Char- terroir, with a strong mineral streak that permeates Wine & More. —L.B. quet of this wine, with added interest from support- There’s ample black-fruit flavors to support the Chardonnay. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 85 donnay (Casablanca Valley). For basic Char- throughout the wine. Pure, precise red-fruit aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 ing notes of sweet smoke, pepper and licorice root. herbal core—think blackberry, plum and cassis—all abv: 13.5% Price: $11 donnay from a warm vintage, this is good. Apple and mas and flavors of small red berries and currants The mouthfeel is creamy and full, but with ample framed by medium tannins and a clean, peppery fin- oak aromas are mild and lead to a full, almost syr- support herbal notes of white pepper, sous bois and Backsberg 2008 Pumphouse Shiraz (Coastal tannin and acidity to provide structure and lend a ish. Drink now–2016. Cape Classics. —L.B. Merino 2012 Limestone Hill Chardonnay upy palate with honeyed flavors of white fruits. A savory herbs, with a hint of gaminess in the back- 88 Region). Herbal scents of briary berry and gripping texture. Ripe flavors of plum, fig, cassis, abv: 14% Price: $20 87 (Limarí Valley). Resiny oak, cinnamon and melony finish with vanilla is sweet but inoffensive. ground. Still tight and reserved, this should shine forest floor mingle with notes of mulled boysen- black tea and leather flood the palate and linger white-fruit aromas are solid. This is juicy and min- Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. after a bit more time; drink after 2016. Kysela Père berry, raspberry, sweet smoke and cured meat. The long on the finish. Drink now–2018. Terlato Wines Riebeek Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon erally in the mouth, with plenty of barrel weight for abv: 14% Price: $10 et Fils. —L.B. finish is dry and gripping, with a peppery note that International. —L.B. 89 (Swartland). Vibrant and expressive, this cushion. Flavors of apple, citrus and oak finish min- abv: 13.5% Price: $128 stays through the close. Marquee Selections. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 offers initial aromas of blackberry, cassis and boy- erally but with some dilution of flavor. Drink during Santa Alicia 2013 Reserva Espiritu de Los An- abv: 13.8% Price: $23 senberry that are matched with spicy hints of lic- 2014. Vine Connections. —M.S. 85 des Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Maipo Val- Fairview 2008 The Beacon Shiraz (Paarl). Rustenberg 2010 John X Merriman orice root, black pepepr and cigar-box spice. The abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ley). There’s a lot of oak on this value-priced Chard, 92 This wine is immediately attractive, with 91 (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch).­ Rustenberg’s palate is round and slightly creamy, but framed by to the point that any fruit aromas are blanketed. initial aromas of ripe cherry, plum and berry fruits MERLOT Bordeaux-style blend, made with 48% Cabernet medium tannins and a long, toasty finish. Kysela Errazuriz 2012 Max Reserva Chardonnay In the mouth, there’s ample acidity affording good that are spiced with hints of Thin Mint, licorice and Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Père et Fils. Best Buy. —L.B. 86 (Aconcagua Valley). Hailing from a very cut, while flavors of pear and apple are spiced up by black pepper. Plush, but not overdone, the mouth- Thelema 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). An Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc, is a complex and abv: 14% Price: $10 warm vintage, this smells like buttered movie pop- aforementioned forceful oak. Fortunately a resiny feel is like crushed velvet, with black cherry-skin 87 enticing herbal streak is often identifiable layered wine, with waves of black fruit and earthy corn and baked apple. In the mouth, there’s ade- tasting finish isn’t too heavy Halby Marketing. Best and raspberry flavors and fine yet structured tan- in Thelema’s wines, and this is no exception, with spice that dance endlessly on the nose and mouth. Camberley 2009 Philosophers’ Stone (Stel- quate acidity and a touch of minerality. Flavors of Buy. —M.S. nins. Glimmers of sweet smoke and black tea unfold hints of menthol, fynbos, tobacco and fig leaf, as Heady notes of blackberry, boysenberry, cassis 88 lenbosch). A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, tropical fruits run sweet and woody, while the finish abv: 13.5% Price: $10 well as a gamy accent in the background. There’s and fig are spiced by accents of cocoa, tobacco and 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this drips honey and banana flavors. Vintus LLC. —M.S. plenty of fruit to mingle with these earthy tones— sweet, charred wood. It’s balanced and well struc- is a soft, red-fruited wine, with lively aromas and abv: 13.5% Price: $20

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 43

BUYINGGUIDE

William Cole 2013 Albamar Chardonnay Santa Carolina 2012 Reserva Chardonnay ish nervy, pithy and a touch bitter. For patio-ready notes. An easy finish seems right given the preced- San Pedro 2011 1865 Single Vineyard Caber- 84 (Casablanca Valley). Dusty apple and melon 80 (Casablanca Valley). Wan in color, with SB, this is ideal. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. ings. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. OTHER WHITE WINES 89 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Gritty aro- aromas come with a whiff of oak. The palate rides vanilla and pear aromas that aren’t too fresh, this —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 mas of asphalt and black olive complement saucy high on citric acid, while flavors of peach and nec- is a syrupy, sweet, flabby Chardonnay. Soft flavors abv: 13% Price: $12 Anakena 2012 Tama Vineyard Selection berry notes. This feels full, rubbery and tannic, tarine are chunky. On the finish, this loses some of pear and pineapple are overdone. Carolina Wine Tololo 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó Valley). 85 (Cachapoal Valley). Standard on while the flavors are soupy and baked, with herbal clarity, which is replaced by mealy notes. Global Brands USA. —M.S. Viña Bisquertt 2013 La Joya Gran Reserva 86 With grapefruit and orange aromas, this is the nose, with apple, pear and spice aromas, this elements folded in. On a long finish, herbal flavors Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). Aro- on the ripe side, but the feel is fresh and flavors of is a fruity Viognier with sweet flavors of peach and of fennel and licorice are front and center. Shaw- abv: 13% Price: $11 mas of grass and green citrus fruits are just pun- citrus, white pepper, arugula and briny melon get nectarine in front of a finish that starts out juicy but Ross International Importers. —M.S. Oveja Negra 2012 Reserva Chardonnay-Viog- gent enough. This is basic but lively in the mouth, the job done. Drink this quaffer soon and it will sat- falls off quickly. Expect lots of sweet, basic white- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Cousiño-Macul 2012 Antiguas Reservas 80 nier (Maule Valley). Aromas of canned pear with grassy flavors and citrus notes of grapefruit isfy; hold it too long and it will lose its fresh charac- fruit character from this warm-vintage wine. Eva- 83 Chardonnay (Maipo Valley). Chunky and and peach are not fresh. This is syrupy in the mouth, and lime. A chalky finish is cleansing. Prestige Wine ter. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. ton, Inc. —M.S. Château Los Boldos 2011 Vieilles Vignes bland on the nose, this is honeyed and sticky in with a bland mix of vanilla and melon flavors. Oxi- Group. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley). This is the mouth. Flavors of unctuous tropical fruits fin- dized on the finish. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 raisiny and soupy on the nose. A jammy, soft palate ish like candy corn. There’s not much spine to this abv: 13.5% Price: $12 William Cole 2013 Albamar Sauvignon Blanc Anakena 2012 Ona Special Reserve Chardon- follows suit, while the flavors are pure prune and overly ripe Chardonnay. Winebow. —M.S. Viña Casablanca 2013 Nimbus Single Vine- 86 (Casablanca Valley). Grassy, straw-like aro- 84 nay-Viognier-Riesling (Leyda Valley). Oaky raisin. Stewy on the finish, this is overripe but still abv: 14% Price: $16 87 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). mas offer bits of lime and orange. This is light, juicy aromas have a lacquer-like scent that dissipates good. Drink soon. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. SAUVIGNON BLANC Grassy aromas blend with tropical fruit notes to and tangy. Flavors of lime, tart apple, grapefruit into sawdust if given time. This is plump and mel- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Siegel 2012 Crucero Reserva Chardonnay create a good but regular Casablanca bouquet. This and kiwi finish with stony minerality and lasting ony in feel, with a resiny note to the texture. Fully 83 (Colchagua Valley). Chardonnay from a hot Leyda 2013 Single Vineyard Garuma Vine- feels lively and easy to take, while flavors of green lemon-lime notes. Global Vineyard Importers. Best ripe white-fruit flavors revolve around mealy mel- Viña Bisquertt 2012 Petirrojo Reserva Estate valley in a hot vintage equals something like this. 90 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Snap- herbs, grass and citrus finish a touch bitter, evi- Buy. —M.S. on, and there’s an oxidized note to the finish. Eva- 85 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Val- Orange peel and oak aromas, a pulpy palate and py aromas of citrus and lime come with minerality dence of a cool vintage. Carolina Wine Brands USA. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 ton, Inc. —M.S. ley). Rubbery berry aromas set up a perky, zesty warm flavors of orange and grapefruit. Kysela Père on a bouquet that’s pungent but doesn’t punch. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 palate with power and balance. Bright plum and et Fils. —M.S. This feels clean, friendly and well built; flavors of abv: 13.8% Price: $15 Santa Alicia 2013 Reserva Espiritu de Los An- currant flavors finish full, ripe, wiry and only slight- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 lime, tangerine and mango finish persistent, with 85 des Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo Estampa 2012 Estate Viognier-Chardon- ly rough. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. no breakdowns. This is what top Chilean SB is all Anakena 2013 Enco Reserve Sauvignon Valley). With almost no color, this is pungent and 84 nay (Colchagua Valley). Oily, gritty, almost abv: 14% Price: $10 Cousiño-Macul 2012 Chardonnay (Central about. Winebow. —M.S. 86 Blanc (Leyda Valley). This is a bit vegetal feline on the nose, with ample citric essence. Tangy, nutty aromas open this blend of 85% Viognier and 82 Valley). Mellow and floral on the nose, this abv: 13.5% Price: $18 on the nose, where nectarine aromas compete with chalky and acidic on the palate, this offers lime and 15% Chardonnay. The palate is plump, weighty and François Lurton 2012 Hacienda Araucano turns loud and aggressive in the mouth. Candied greener notes of canned beans and asparagus. In tangerine flavors in front of a short but clean finish. melony in texture, with honeyed flavors of banana 84 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua lime and mango flavors finish rugged and screaming. Leyda 2013 Classic Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda the mouth, this is oily in feel, while flavors of green Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S. and tropical fruits. A soft, dense, thick finish is par Valley). Dry, dusty plum and apple skin aromas hold Winebow. —M.S. 89 Valley). Tropical more than green and pun- fruits trend toward herbaceous. A minerally fin- abv: NA Price: $10 for the course. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. steady. This feels rubbery and tastes lightly can- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 gent, this fragrant wine offers powdery, sweet notes ish with citrus flavors and herbal leftovers is what abv: 13% Price: $15 died, with generic berry, vanilla and toasted flavors and stronger coastal ones. It’s lean and angular in you’d expect. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. La Playa 2013 Estate Series Sauvignon Blanc emerging. A raw and tannic finish says this needs Viña Bisquertt 2013 Petirrojo Reserva Char- feel, with oceanic flavors of nettle, tangerine and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 84 (Curicó Valley). Spunky citrus and nettle Oveja Negra 2012 Reserva Sauvignon something like pizza or flank steak to help it along. 82 donnay (Colchagua Valley). Candied white- lemon. A light green flavor and a chalky feel make aromas offer a fair and honest opening. This is fresh 83 Blanc-Carmenère (Maule Valley). Neutral Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. fruit aromas are generic and rudimentary. This up the finish. Winebow.Best Buy. —M.S. Anakena 2013 Tama Vineyard Selection on the tongue, with white grapefruit as the lead fla- aromas of dusty apple and peach are o.k. at best. abv: 14% Price: $11 feels flat and doesn’t show much life on the palate. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This is ad- vor. On the finish, it’s a bit flat. Quaffable is the best Like most 2012 white wines from Chile, this seems Flavors of canned pear, oak and related spice finish equately pungent on the nose, with a touch of the way to describe this value SB. Cabernet Corpora- heat-affected; the body is plump and heavy, while Soleca 2012 3 Generaciones Cabernet Sau- bland. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. San Pedro 2013 1865 Single Vineyard Sau- veggies. The palate is modest in acidity but not flat tion. Best Buy. —M.S. melon and citrus flavors finish soft and mealy. Old 84 vignon (Central Valley). Crisp red-fruit abv: 14% Price: $10 89 vignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Pungent and or flabbby. Flavors of green fruits mix with a hint abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Bridge Cellars. —M.S. aromas are simple, direct and clean. This bounces snappy up front, with grapefruit and nettle aromas, of asparagus, while controlled capsicum and bit- abv: 13% Price: $12 along on rubbery tannins and tastes like blackberry Chilensis 2012 Reserva Chardonnay (Maule this is classic Leyda Sauvignon Blanc on the bou- terness work the finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. Viña Bisquertt 2013 Petirrojo Reserva Sau- and toast. Mild bitterness and grabbiness get going 81 Valley). Light and tropical on the nose, this quet. On the palate, this is fresh, juicy and upright. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 84 vignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). Pleasant on the finish. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. is flabby on the palate and tastes dull and sweet, Well-cut flavors of green pea, lime and tangerine yet bland up front, this lacks the punch of a serious CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 14% Price: $7 with a creamy aftertaste and low acidity. Old Bridge finish pithy and firm. Shaw-Ross International -Im Arboleda 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua Sauvignon Blanc. A plump, flat mouthfeel and pithy Cellars. —M.S. porters. —M.S. 86 Valley). Briny aromas of lime, jalapeño and flavors of citrus fruits and minerals finish without Ochagavia 2011 Racies Nobles Cabernet Sau- Château Los Boldos 2012 Grand Reserve Cab- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 minerals filter into a juicy, acidic palate with flavors a lot of kick or length. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. 92 vignon (Maipo Valley). For full review see 83 ernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley). A deep-pur- that match the nose: briny citrus, lime and bell pep- abv: 13% Price: $10 page 7. Cellar Selection. ple look and aromas of cherry cough drop and berry Vistamar 2012 Sepia Reserva Chardonnay Garces Silva 2013 Boya Sauvignon Blanc per. A narrow feeling finish turns pithy and bitter abv: 14.5% Price: $24 jam announce a fruity wine with hard, drilling tan- 81 (Casablanca Valley). This perenially medio- 88 (Leyda Valley). Tight, gritty, steely aromas the longer this sits. Thiénot USA. —M.S. Llai Llai 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Bío Bío Val- nins. Seemingly overextracted, this is a packed, me- cre wine is a little worse in 2012. It smells blowsy, of nettle and ocean mist allow for a modest amount abv: 13% Price: $20 82 ley). While the nose is pungent and true Santa Carolina 2011 Reserva de Familia Caber- dicinal tasting red with toast and fire on the finish. floral and strange, while in the mouth it’s like oaky of citrus fruit to poke through. A narrow, high-ac- to the variety, there isn’t much else positive to say 91 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). For full review Evaton, Inc. —M.S. apple cider. Flavors of cider and faux oak are less id palate may peel back the enamel on your teeth, Máscara de Feugo 2013 Sauvignon Blanc about this cypher of a Sauvignon Blanc. The palate see page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 than impressive, as is the overall balance. Grupo while flavors of sour green apple and gooseberry fin- 86 (Central Valley). Uncommitted aromas is plump yet fizzy, while the flavor profile offers- cit abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Belen USA. —M.S. ish shear and tart. Vine Connections. —M.S. of citrus, generic green herbs and vanilla set up a rus, bitterness and nothing more. MJW. —M.S. Emiliana 2012 Natura Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 fresh, slightly fleshy palate with lemon-lime flavors. abv: 13% Price: $10 Lapostolle 2011 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta 83 (Rapel Valley). Usually Natura is better than Citrusy on the finish, this is good, functional SB to 90 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua this; this hot-vintage wine shows animal notes, Männle 2012 Chardonnay (Itata Valley). Santa Carolina 2013 Reserva Sauvignon drink right away. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. San Pedro 2013 Gato Negro Sauvignon Blanc Valley). Aromas of blackberry and cassis are spicy spice and jumpy plum and cherry aromas. It’s edgy 80 Aromas of sweet corn and melon are not 88 Blanc (Leyda Valley). For full review see abv: 13.5% Price: $10 81 (Central Valley). With little varietal char- and a touch herbal. A tannic, firm palate suggests and raw in feel, with hollow, green-leaning flavors convincing. This has little in the way of mouthfeel page 13. Best Buy. acter on the nose, this qualifies as a basic, plump that aging will help this along; flavors of blackber- and minty oak. An echo of green rattles across the or substance; flavors of candied fruits taste like corn abv: 13% Price: $12 Palo Alto 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc white wine with mild fruit, oily notes and some bit- ry and cassis are lightly herbal, while the finish is finish. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. and wheat, while the finish is spineless. Red Puro 86 (Maule Valley). Every vintage this wine terness. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. dense, fruity, earthy and generous. Drink through abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Imports. —M.S. Quintay 2013 Clava Coastal Reserve Sauvi- pulls the same score, so there’s something to be said abv: 12% Price: $7 2018. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 87 gnon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Crisp, spicy, about consistency. This bottling is neutral on the abv: 14.1% Price: $23 grassy, citrus aromas are all good. This is acidic and nose, with hints of dust and melon. The palate is cleansing; zesty flavors of orange and pineapple fin- clean and citrusy in feel, with melon and green herb

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 45

BUYINGGUIDE

Viu Manent 2010 El Incidente Carmenère a good introduction to the positives of Carmenère, coffee grinds are earthy and strong. This is concen- cold by Chilean standards, and that’s reflected in of raspberry and spice finish with a raw feel and MALBEC 92 (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page try this. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. trated in the mouth, and also pasty and resiny in this strange-smelling wine that’s loaded with pine, controlled green notes. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. 7. abv: 14% Price: $18 feel. Flavors of lactic oak, cardamom and blackberry juniper and foresty aromas. In the mouth, it’s both abv: 13% Price: $12 Alto Los Romeros 2011 Gran Reserva Malbec abv: 14.5% Price: $50 finish with vanilla sweetness and a lasting wave of chunky and acidic, while flavors of blueberry have 90 (Colchagua Valley). This is a jammy, lusty Undurraga 2012 Sibaris Reserva Especial wood. Palm Bay International. —M.S. a green core. A short, mellow finish with sweetness Montes 2011 Alpha Merlot (Colchagua Val- wine with aromatic notes of graphite on top of core San Pedro 2010 Tierras Moradas Carmenère 89 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Spicy, earthy abv: 14.1% Price: $20 confirms this wine’s weak points. Copa Fina Im- 86 ley). This Merlot smells rooty, with licorice blackberry scents. The palate is chunky and full, 91 (Maule Valley). Plum, berry, licorice and cherry and cassis aromas are true to the variety. ports CA. —M.S. and mint to boot. A wide, sort of flabby palate is, at while the flavor profile is pure jammy blackberry. A balsamic aromas are earthy and classy. This feels This is juicy, bright and substantive in feel, with red Ventisquero 2010 Grey [Glacier] Single Block abv: 13.9% Price: $23 its base, oaky as can be; there’s also stewed plum quick, staunch finish is a fine conclusion. Domaine chunky and heavy but not ponderous. Flavors of berry, oak spice and herbal flavors. A minty, choc- 87 Trinidad Vineyard Carmenère (Maipo Valley). and herbal blackberry flavors in front of a blocky, Select Wine Estates. —M.S. prune, rooty spices, mint and chocolate finish with olaty finish full of herbs and spices provides for a Aromas are drawn and mildly green in nature. In the Apaltagua 2011 Envero Gran Reserva Es- chunky finish. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 mocha and fig notes. Enjoy this ripe, full-bodied good ending. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. mouth, this is soft and stewy, with as much green 83 tate Bottled Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $25 wine anytime through 2017. Shaw-Ross Interna- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 herb and mint as berry fruit and richness. On the Mulchy, ashy and green up front, this is a tough one Koyle 2011 Reserva Malbec (Colchagua Val- tional Importers. —M.S. finish, this feels syrupy but tastes a bit like salad, from the start. Crisp, raw, hard and rough in the Santa Alicia 2012 Reserva Merlot (Maipo Val- 89 ley). Inky aromas of boysenberry and black- abv: 14% Price: $NA Casa Silva 2012 Los Lingues Vineyard Car- with candied sweetness thrown in. San Francisco mouth, with leafy flavors of green herbs and olive, 85 ley). There’s more than enough herbal-olive berry come with a note of pencil lead. The palate on 88 menère (Colchagua Valley). Herb, spice, Wine Exchange. —M.S. this is varietal to an extreme, with finishing notes of character to the nose, and also berry scents. The this Malbec is chewy and concentrated, while fla- Santa Rita 2008 Pehuén Carmenère (Apalta). wild berry and wood aromas set up a round palate abv: 14% Price: $NA carob and green-leaning red fruits. Global Vineyard palate is zesty and fresh in feel, with normal-for- vors of blackberry, molasses and black pepper finish 91 For full review see page 9. that’s bigger than medium but not huge in size. De- Importers. —M.S. Chile leafy, dry, spicy berry flavors. A crisp-feeling strong, with notes of coffee, pepper and hard spices. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 finitive Carmenère flavors of herbs, wild berry and Viña Tarapacá 2011 Gran Reserva Carmenère abv: 14% Price: $16 finish is herbal in flavor. Halby Marketing. Best Buy. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. spiced plum finish with moderate bitterness and 87 (Maipo Valley). Savory, spicy aromas of —M.S. abv: NA Price: $17 Chilcas 2010 Las Almas Carmenère (Maule tannic support. Vine Connections. —M.S. saucy fruit, fennel and sausage are gamy, herbal Viña Bisquertt 2012 La Joya Gran Reserva abv: 14% Price: $10 90 Valley). Seductive aromas of blueberry, abv: 14% Price: $20 and interesting. This is plush and big on the palate, 83 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Plum and Concha y Toro 2011 Casillero del Diablo Res- oregano and juniper are different than the norm. with weight and depth. Flavors of spiced plum and cherry aromas are generic in nature. This feels jam- Viña Bisquertt 2012 Petirrojo Reserva Merlot 87 erva Malbec (Rapel Valley). With savory This is concentrated and inky, with intense black- Koyle 2011 Reserva Carmenère (Colchagua berry are ripe given that 2011 was a cool year for my and candied, while heavy berry fruit and oak 85 (Colchagua Valley). Asphalt, crusty leath- aromas of soy sauce and beef broth, this is not only fruit flavors as well as notes of juniper berry and 88 Valley). Koyle Reserva shows the upside of warm-weather varieties like this. Tre Vigne Import- flavors combine to keep things basic and muddled. er and herbal berry aromas are the opening on fruity smelling, it’s meaty on the nose. The palate lemony oak. A lush, fruity finish is pure and jammy Carmenère while not pushing too hard. Smoky aro- ers. —M.S. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. this racy Merlot. Flavors run from herbal, peppery is full and voluminous, but not thick. Flavors of but not overly complex. Drink through 2016. Old mas of roasted berry, graphite and olive are vocifer- abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $15 and olive-driven to red-berry fruits. A spicy finish boysenberry and blackberry are slightly leafy and Bridge Cellars. —M.S. ous yet balanced. A layered, meaty palate is home to brings enough red-cherry character to make things green, while the finish shows a good texture and abv: 14% Price: $50 minty, resiny flavors of berry fruits, herbs and choc- Casa Silva 2012 Cuvée Carmenère (Colcha- Cremaschi Furlotti 2011 Single Vineyard Car- work. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. grabby tannins. Excelsior Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. olate, while the finish is oaky, toasty and attractive. 86 gua Valley). Wild berry and spice aromas 82 menère (Loncomilla Valley). Raw, leafy aro- abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Concha y Toro 2010 Carmín de Peumo Car- Quintessential Wines. —M.S. are herbal. This is not that lively in feel, with herbal mas announce a hard, astringent wine with green, 90 menère (Peumo). Inky on the nose, with abv: 14% Price: $17 blue-fruit flavors of blackberry and juniper. This is herbal flavors of juniper and raspberry. A rubbery Viña La Fortuna 2012 Culpeo Made with Or- Lomas del Valle 2011 Coastal Cool Climate feral notes of animal fur, this is a concentrated fruit more green on the finish, which is modestly struc- finish confirms that this is base level and acceptable 85 ganic Grapes Merlot (Curicó Valley). Spicy, 87 Malbec (Casablanca Valley). For cool-cli- bomb from start to finish. Given that 2010 was a Montes 2011 Alpha Marchigue Vineyard Car- tured. Vine Connections. —M.S. in the scheme of things. —M.S. crisp plum and berry aromas set up a medium-full mate Casablanca Valley Malbec, this is dark, meaty cold year, it’s not surpising that this wine would be 88 menère (Colchagua Valley). Earthy, baked abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 palate with some roughness and edgy acidity. Fla- and ripe. The bouquet is chunky and beefy, with a closed at this early state; yet with mossy flavors and aromas of ripe berry, raisin and leather come with vors of herbal, peppery black fruits finish mild. This touch of leafy green. A meaty feeling palate is home minty, oak-based notes of carob and mulberry, it’s a tobacco note. This is nice given the cold weath- Lapostolle 2011 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta is dry, spicy and just solid enough. VinLozano Im- to herbal, savory flavors of black fruits and salt, showing good signs. Drink through 2017. Excelsior er that drove the 2011 vintage. Round tannins and 86 Vineyard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). MERLOT ports. Best Buy. —M.S. while the muscular finish continues with the salty Wines. —M.S. overall balance provide bedding for spicy flavors of Hailing from a very cool vintage, this is more neu- abv: 13% Price: $10 theme. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $200 blackberry, herbal notes, licorice and oak. TGIC Im- tral, stripped back and tough than usual. Lemony Santa Alicia 2011 Gran Reserva de Los An- abv: 14% Price: $18 porters. —M.S. oak and generic black-fruit aromas feed into a tan- 88 des Estate Bottled Merlot (Maipo Valley). Vaya Vadiso 2012 Merlot (Central Valley). Siegel 2012 Single Vineyard Carmenère abv: 14.5% Price: $25 nic, fat palate with generic flavors of cassis and This leafy, Bordeaux-style Merlot is applealing for 84 Rubbery, tarry, herbal berry aromas lead 90 (Colchagua Valley). Minty plum and berry blackberry. This is big and fruity but not complex its moderate approach and emphasis on herbs and to a fresh, lean, somewhat acidic palate. Flavors of CARMENÈRE aromas are herbal but ripe, with a note of chocolate San Pedro 2011 1865 Single Vineyard Car- or showing a lot of character. Terlato Wines Inter- spice over oak and extraction. The wine is smooth plum, red currant and green herbs finish with zest and black tea. This is lush and layered, with top-end 88 menère (Maule Valley). Spicy, tarry, gritty national. —M.S. and and round, with berry, cassis and herbal offsets. and juicy acidity. Winery Exchange. —M.S. Concha y Toro 2010 Terrunyo Entre Cordil- mouthfeel and herbal, floral flavors of berry fruits aromas of asphalt and olive drive the bouquet. This abv: 14.1% Price: $23 Classic Merlot from Chile, with just enough oak and abv: 12% Price: $10 92 leras Peumo Vineyard Block 27 Carmenère and plum. A smooth, herbal tasting finish is the -fi feels ripe and full bodied, with stewed plum, herb fruit to rank as modern. Halby Marketing. —M.S. (Peumo). Mossy, lightly herbal aromas of black- nale to a well-made, flavorful wine. Kysela Père et and cardamom flavors. Toast, dark-berry flavors and Maquis 2011 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). abv: 14% Price: $15 Santa Ema 2011 Select Terroir Merlot (Cacha- berry and marzipan are attractive. This is rich, loud Fils. —M.S. mint are the key notes to the finish. Shaw-Ross In- 85 Inky, grapy aromas come across hard and re- 83 poal Valley). This opens with a blast of bell and racy in the mouth, with vanilla, tobacco, plum abv: 13.5% Price: $22 ternational Importers. —M.S. duced. This is pinchy and tannic on the palate, with Lapostolle 2011 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta pepper and leafy berry aromas. The palate is juicy and berry flavors that finish long and ride elegantly abv: 14.5% Price: $19 dark berry, game and crusty flavors. On the finish, 87 Vineyard Merlot (Colchagua Valley). Muscu- but scratchy, while flavors of plum, raspberry and on a beam of slightly sharp acidity. Drink this fine Arboleda 2011 Carmenère (Colchagua Val- it’s hard-driving, with heat and tannic grab. Global lar, rubbery aromas of black fruits are minty and herbs finish tart, with no evolution. TGIC Import- Carmenère through 2016. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. 89 ley). Raw-cut wood, vanilla, herbs and hard Von Siebenthal 2010 Tatay de Cristóbal Vineyard Importers. —M.S. tough. On the palate, this is rough as nails, with ers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 spice scents define the nose on this quality Car- 88 Carmenère (Aconcagua Valley). Forgetting abv: 13.5% Price: $19 pounding tannins. Lead flavors of coconut, vanilla abv: 13% Price: $10 menère. In the mouth, tomatoey acidity is offset by about the crazy price, this is a rustic wine with and chocolate are oak based, while the finish keeps Santa Carolina 2009 Herencia Carmenère weighty berry fruit and creamy oak. Flavorwise, this graphite, green herb, tobacco and marzipan aromas. Von Siebenthal 2010 Gran Reserva Single that profile going. This is a big, dark, oaky wine with 92 (Peumo). Keeping with past performances, is saucy, meaty, a touch stewy and herbal, just like The mouthfeel is hard and resiny, while flavors of 84 Vineyard Carmenère (Aconcagua Valley). generic black-fruit character. Terlato Wines Inter- SYRAH/SHIRAZ Herencia is again one of Chile’s best Carmenères. the variety is known to be. Thiénot USA. —M.S. blue fruits, graphite and oak finish green, candied Jumpy and aggressive on the nose, with a mix national. —M.S. This is bold, toasty and ripe on the nose, with to- abv: 14% Price: $20 and sweet. Overall, this is a particular wine that of charred, burnt, meaty aromas and saline, this abv: 14.1% Price: $23 Viña Casablanca 2011 Neblus Syrah (Casa- bacco and vanilla nuances. The palate is huge but requires patience and digging. Vine Connections. struggles to register. A grabby, sticky, roasted palate 91 blanca Valley). This cool-vintage Syrah is in shape, while toasty, chocolaty flavors of herbal Concha y Toro 2011 Serie Riberas Gran Res- —M.S. tastes burnt and herbal, while the finish is charred Chilensis 2012 Reserva Merlot (Maule Val- lightly herbal and complex up front, with blueber- plum and berry end chewy, stacked and deep. Drink 89 erva Ribera del Cachapoal Carmenère (Peu- abv: 14.5% Price: $200 and chocolaty. Vine Connections. —M.S. 86 ley). Crisp, direct aromas of cherry and bri- ry and boysenberry aromas. Compact and tight in through 2016. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Editors’ mo). Olive, spice and black-plum aromas come with abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ar define the nose on this herbal Merlot. A zesty pal- the mouth, this is firm and shows no leaks or weak Choice. —M.S. some grit and savory accents. This is well packed Santa Rita 2009 Medalla Real Gran Reserva ate is driven by snappy acidity, while herbal flavors spots. Herbal plum and berry flavors finish toasty, abv: 15% Price: $90 and voluminous; flavors of olive, plum and wild ber- 87 Carmenère (Colchagua Costa). Heady, oaky, William Fèvre 2010 Espino Gran Cuvée Car- and the overall feel is firm, serious and in balance. ry finish sturdy and smooth, with minty accents. For pushy aromas of green-leaning red-berry fruits and 84 menère (Pirque). The 2010 vintage was

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 47

BUYINGGUIDE

Drink through 2015. Carolina Wine Brands USA. ate with high acidity. Herbal red-plum flavors are in the direction of red fruits, while the finish is a Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Single Vine- raisiny aromas aren’t fresh, while wood tannin and Editors’ Choice. —M.S. scratchy, while the finish loses fruit and replaces it little woody, dry and peppery. Testa Wines Of The 85 yard Reserve Pinot Noir (Maule Valley). For full acid are keeping it afloat. Flavors of brown and RED BLENDS abv: 14.5% Price: $70 with espresso bitterness. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. World. —M.S. review see page 13. Best Buy. decayed berry fruits finish stale. This is on its very last abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $10 legs. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. Viña el Principal 2008 El Principal Andetelmo Koyle 2009 Royale Syrah (Colchagua Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 93 Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Maipo Val- 90 ley). Cassis, red licorice candy and leather Amayna 2011 Syrah (Leyda Valley). This Beach Kite 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Valley). Viu Manent 2011 Secreto Pinot Noir (Casablan- ley). Cool berry, light herb and lactic aromas settle are the key aromas on this full-bodied, ripe Syrah. 83 coastal Syrah smells reduced and funky, 86 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 85 ca Valley). A combination of savory and herbal nicely and completely. This is a voluminous Cabernet Things run big but healthy on the tongue, while fla- with notes of juniper, blueberry and green herbs. A abv: 13% Price: $7 red-fruit aromas set up a flat-feeling palate with little CARIGNAN Sauvignon with 5% Carmenère. Spice, black fruits vors of black fruits, toast, coconut and chocolate jammy, saturated palate is more flat and dull than to no textural variation. Flavors of baked berry, oak and olive flavors precede finishing notes of chocolate, announce plenty of oak. A rich, persistent finish is ideal, while flavors of stewed, herbal blue fruits and Indomita 2011 Duette Pinot Noir (Casablan- spice and herbs finish blocky and a touch green. Bay- Meli 2011 Carignan (Maule Valley). Roasted black tea and barbecue sauce. This has an impressive just bright enough. Drink through 2015. Quintes- carob finish minty and green. Vine Connections. 86 ca Valley). Light strawberry aromas are a bit state Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 89 black fruits, animal notes and a strong whiff structure and refined acidity; drink through 2020. Re- sential Wines. —M.S. —M.S. green and herbal. The mouthfeel is fresh but dilute, abv: 14% Price: $15 of black olive make for a wild and wooly bouquet. The gal Wine Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 while flavors of oak and creamy tasting red-berry palate on this Carignan is direct and firm, with exotic abv: 15% Price: $54 fruits finish firm but without a lot of depth. This is William Fèvre 2011 Gran Cuvee Pinot Noir (Mai- berry flavors, herbal hints and well-applied oak. Blue- Ventisquero 2009 Pangea Apalta Vineyard Château Los Boldos 2012 Momentos Reserva good for quaffing but doesn’t go beyond that. Laird 85 po Valley). A roasted, stalky smelling nose is berry notes and bold acidity push the finish. Drink Cousiño-Macul 2008 Lota (Maipo Valley). To- 90 Syrah (Colchagua Valley). From a warm vin- 83 Syrah (Cachapoal Valley). This smells pret- & Company. —M.S. a touch offputting at first but improves with airing. through 2017. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. 92 mato and basil aromas are suggestive of bolog- tage, this Syrah is raisiny and jammy up front but ty good: cherry and plum aromas with mild oak are abv: 14% Price: $20 This high-elevation Maipo Pinot is watery on the pal- abv: 14% Price: $15 nese sauce. In the mouth, this blend of 70% Cabernet more staunch and structured as it opens. Aromas solid. The palate, however, is hard and has a plas- ate, with raspberry, plum and earthy spice notes. A Sauvigon and 30% Merlot is rich, syrupy and full of of baked fruits arrive at a big, saturated palate full tic-like feel. Flavors of plum and berry finish bitter La Playa 2011 Block Selection Reserve Block modest finish can generously be described as elegant. Mancura 2011 Guardián Reserva Carignan sweet, savory flavors that include molasses, brown of blackberry, vanilla and coconut flavors. Cherry, like espresso. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. 86 N. 16 Pinot Noir (Limarí Valley). Neutral aro- Imports. —M.S. 88 (Maule Valley). For full review see page 12. sugar, baked berry fruits and oak. A spicy tasting fin- chocolate and graphite work the finish on this ripe, abv: 14.5% Price: $10 mas are clean but devoid of specific fruit scents. abv: 13.8% Price: $20 Best Buy. ish includes chocolate and lasting savory notes. Drink warm wine. Drink through 2016. San Francisco This is regular in feel, with a bit of chunky weight. abv: 14% Price: $10 through 2018. Winebow. —M.S. Wine Exchange. —M.S. Baked, earthy flavors of black fruits and cocoa lose Concha y Toro 2012 Casillero del Diablo Reser- abv: 14% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 PINOT NOIR steam on a finish that turns soft and a little sticky. 84 va Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Crisp, leafy, Santa Carolina 2010 Dry Farming Carignan Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. peppery aromas accent core red-plum notes. In the 88 (Cauquenes Valley). This is a ripe wine with Santa Rita 2008 Triple C (Maipo Valley). For Montes 2011 Alpha Syrah (Colchagua Val- Veramonte 2011 Ritual Pinot Noir (Casablan- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 mouth, raw acidity pushes the palate, which delivers prune, raisin, coconut and cedar-sawdust aromas. 92 full review see page 7. 89 ley). Meaty, dry, lightly herbal berry aro- 88 ca Valley). Cherry, strawberry and light can- dry, spicy cranberry and tomato flavors. Peppery spice Dense in the mouth, with giant tannins, this dry- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 mas are reserved and not too pushy. This is choppy died aromas are good but basic. This feels full and Leyda 2012 Single Vineyard Cahuil Vineyard and mild green-herb flavors carry the finish. Excelsior farmed bear features sun-baked, slightly stewed fla- feeling on the palate, with pointed acids. Flavors of creamy, with oak, dry spice, cinnamon and earthy 86 Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Baked, leathery Wines. —M.S. vors of berry fruits along with minty oak. A hard-driv- Viña el Principal 2008 Memorias (Maipo Valley). herbal berry, dark plum, coconut, chocolate and oak red-berry flavors. Spice notes and a flat, chunky feel aromas of animal hide and sun-drenched berries set abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ing finish is woody and tannic. Drink through 2018. 91 For full review see page 10. finish fresh, long, juicy and oaky. TGIC Importers. define the finish. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. up a ripe, slightly out of shape palate with flavors of Santa Carolina. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $28 —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 raspberry, plum and apple skins. A sweet tasting, Morandé 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir (Casablanca abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $25 tutti-frutti finish is short and basic. This reads like 84 Valley). Stalky, herbal aromas infiltrate mild Estampa 2011 Estate Malbec-Petite Sirah (Col- Leyda 2012 Lot 21 Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). a wine from a hot year, which 2012 was. Winebow. red-berry scents. This is crisp, juicy and light on the Luis Felipe Edwards 2011 CIEN Ancient Vines 90 chagua Valley). Savory and earthy up front, Santa Rita 2009 Reserva Syrah (Maipo Val- 87 Medicinal, rubbery, oaky berry aromas are —M.S. palate, with tart strawberry, cherry and raspberry fla- 85 Carignan (Maule Valley). Rubbery berry and this blend of Malbec and Petit Sirah is quite ripe and 87 ley). There’s a lot of fruit to this New World ripe by Leyda Pinot Noir standards. This is full in abv: 14.5% Price: $27 vors. A touch of oak and cocoa powder appear on a cured olive aromas are rustic and earthy. This feels not at all herbal. In the mouth, it’s cushioned and Syrah. Cherry, cassis and berry aromas are fresh body and offers much-needed grip and structure. lightweight finish. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. raw and acidic, while the palate hits firmly with short rich, while dark, toasty flavors of blackberry and pep- and forward, while in the mouth, this is full but not Beefy, maximum-ripe flavors of cherry and plum Santa Luz 2011 Reserva Encinos Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $14 bursts of plum and berry flavors. A choppy, rough feel- per finish a touch bitter, like dark chocolate or a cup overly demanding or exact. Flavors of cherry and finish earthy, leathery and a touch salty. Winebow. 86 (Central Valley). Earthy, leathery aromas ing finish is par for the course. Domaine Select Wine of espresso. American Estates Wines, Inc. Best Buy. plum come with creamy oak notes of vanilla, while —M.S. include rubber and olive along with plum and rasp- Santa Alicia 2012 Reserva Espiritu de los Andes Estates. —M.S. —M.S. the finish is crisp in feel but generic in flavor. Palm abv: 14.5% Price: $40 berry. This is medium bodied and good in feel, while 83 Pinot Noir (Bío Bío Valley). Herbal aromas, a abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Bay International. —M.S. flavors of earthy, slightly salty plum and berry finish chunky palate and herbal cherry and plum flavors fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Leyda 2012 Single Vineyard Las Brisas Vine- blocky and monotone. The Country Vintner-Craft ish earthy and with a raisiny element. This is sort of Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Maucho Reserva La Playa 2011 Block Selection Reserve Claret 87 yard Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Chunky cher- and Estate. —M.S. amorphous and mealy on the palate. Halby Marketing. 85 Carignan (Maule Valley). This is an unrepen- 88 (Colchagua Valley). Plum and berry aromas Santa Alicia 2012 Reserva Shiraz (Maipo Val- ry, cough drop and dusty aromas make for a ripe but abv: 13.5% Price: $13 —M.S. tant wood bomb. Immediately the nose explodes with are solid albeit a touch clipped and abrupt. This 86 ley). Forceful aromas of pie crust and heavy alluring nose. This feels big and full, as will most abv: 13.5% Price: $10 syrupy berry aromas and toasty oak. In the mouth, it’s 4-grape blend is deep in feel and offers a good overall berry fruits are clumsy but generous. There’s elas- 2012 Chilean Pinot Noirs; flavors of baked black Undurraga 2012 U Estate Grown Pinot Noir soft and not at all tannic, while roasted, rooty flavors palate feel. Flavors of loamy dark berry fruits, choco- tic tightness to the palate along with herbal berry fruits and raspberry are about as rich and sweet as 86 (Maipo Valley). Leafy, spicy red-berry aro- William Cole 2012 Albamar Estate Bottled Pi- of berry fruits finish with a lasting blast of licorice and late and toast finish intense, with espresso-like bit- flavors. The finish loses fruit while cranking up the Pinot should ever get, while a smooth, chocolaty fin- mas suggest asphalt. This is pleasant on the palate, 83 not Noir (Casablanca Valley). Stalky raspberry hickory. Vinecrest Importers. —M.S. terness. Cabernet Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S. toasty afterburners. Halby Marketing.Best Buy. ish is modest in terms of acidity. Winebow. —M.S. with rubbery tannins. Flavors of rose water, rasp- aromas, a zesty palate and salty red-plum flavors are abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22 berry and plum are light and floral, while the finish the bulk of this lightweight specimen. Overall it’s fresh abv: 14% Price: $10 is easygoing. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. and snappy, a bit sour and herbal, and not all that sub- Cremaschi Furlotti 2011 Edición Limitada Concha y Toro 2011 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Quintay 2012 Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir —M.S. stantive. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. 84 Carignan (Loncomilla Valley). Talk about an 87 Privada Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Maipo Val- Concha y Toro 2012 Casillero del Diablo Res- 87 (Casablanca Valley). Plum, cherry and abv: NA Price: $11 abv: 13.9% Price: $13 overoaked wine. From the start, this struggles to keep ley). Pure purple in color, this is a chunky, extracted 85 erva Shiraz (Central Valley). Creamy oak strawberry aromas are light, true and minerally. it real. Aromas of shoe polish, vanilla and scorched blend of Syrah and Cabernet with plum and berry aro- matches prickly red plum and cherry aromas. This This is a juicy, fresh, medium-weight wine with Llai Llai 2011 Pinot Noir (Bío Bío Valley). Dark Garces Silva 2012 Boya Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). oak are dominant. Firm and tannic in the mouth, this mas along with hints of mint and olive. A full, tannic, is tight and rugged in feel, with black plum, herb, plum and raspberry. Nothing about this is pushy; 85 in color, with minty oak on the nose, this is 81 Odd aromas of pomegranate and grapefruit are Carignan tastes almost entirely of wood resin and somewhat raw palate houses earthy flavors of molas- spice and dry oak flavors. A toasty finish loses its overall, it’s a bright, lifted quaffer that’s totally sat- a medium-to-full, resiny wine with cinnamon and off the grid. This is citric and austere in feel, with sour, mint. That this is oaky and resiny on the finish is no ses and herbal black fruits, while the finish is heady fruit quickly. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. isfying. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. clove outmuscling plum and cherry flavors. Resiny herbal flavors mixed with oak. A minty, herbal, green surprise. —M.S. and a touch green. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $14 oak, modest acidity and tertiary fruit flavors work finish raises questions. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $14 the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $22 François Lurton 2012 Hacienda Araucano Undurraga 2012 Aliwen Reserva Pinot Noir abv: 13% Price: $13 Oveja Negra 2011 Reserva Carmenère-Mer- 84 Reserva Syrah (Lolol Valley). After a rough, 87 (Leyda Valley-Maipo Valley). Leafy, dry, Cono Sur 2009 20 Barrels Limited Edition Pi- 86 lot (Maule Valley). Fresh on the nose, this rubbery start to the aromatics, herbal spice and earthy aromas come in front of a bouncy, fresh pal- 80 not Noir (Casablanca Valley). This mature PN blend of Carmenère and Merlot is also a bit green and dark fruit notes come out. This shows a racy pal- ate. Plum, cherry and pomegranate flavors drive this from a hot vintage isn’t showing much life. Earthy, scratchy. In the mouth, this is more crisp than heavy,

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 49

BUYINGGUIDE

with choppy acidity and tannins. Flavors of leafy berry Santa Ema 2011 Late Harvest Tardío Sauvi- lime, peach and honey flavors, it might just blow your mélange of tropical fruit flavors, along with peaches River Road 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coun- Three Coins 2012 Lawer Family Wines Betsy’s fruits are herbal, but there’s a vanilla and olive offset 87 gnon Blanc (Maipo Valley). With heavy notes mind. High acidity adds balance and gives the wine and cream. —S.H. 88 ty). There’s just a touch of oak on this Char- 87 Vineyard Cannon Block Chardonnay (Knights that keeps things level. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. of botrytis and oak, this is reflective of the Europe- mouthwatering tartness. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 donnay, enough to give it hints of smoke and buttered Valley). For full review see page 12. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA an style of sweet whites. The palate is fleshy but not abv: 13.5% Price: $48 toast. The palate is dominated by flavors of tropical abv: 14.1% Price: $26 terribly precise, while flavors of caramel, butter and Sonoma Cuvée 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma fruits, citrus, peaches and green apples, balanced with Santa Ema 2009 Amplus One (Peumo). Edgy baked apple finish modest and shy on acidity. TGIC Rusack 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa Ma- 90 County). This Chardonnay takes flavors of crisp lime-juice acidity. It’s an elegant, dry Chard at a Ferrari-Carano 2011 Reserve Chardonnay (Car- 86 aromas of plum, cherry and cassis are fresh Importers. —M.S. 92 ria Valley). This reserve wine was made from Meyer lemon, lime, papaya and buttered toast, and good price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 86 neros). Brisk acidity helps to provide some but scratchy. In the mouth, this Carmenère-led blend abv: 12% Price: $NA/375 ml grapes grown in the same Bien Nacido and Sierra carries them over the finish line with a drive of acidity, abv: 13.5% Price: $16 balance to this wine’s oakiness, but it’s still somewhat shows blazing, cutting acidity and racy flavors of cran- Madre vineyards as Rusack’s regular 2012 Chardon- minerality and complexity. Finishing dry and crisp, it’s clumsy in profile. Flavors of buttered toast, caramel berry and pie cherry. Oak and vanilla show up on the Vistamar 2012 Late Harvest Moscatel (Limarí nay, but it was produced in much smaller quantities, a wonderful wine with an everyday price that makes it Three Sticks 2011 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay and dill dominate underlying notes of tropical fruit finish, which is acidic and fresh, much like the rest of 85 Valley). With a brown/gold color and fleshy, and it’s a distinctly richer wine. Aged in ample new a stunning value. Best Buy. —S.H. 88 (Sonoma Valley). Aged in 60% new French and pear. —S.H. the wine. TGIC Importers. —M.S. sweet aromas of mango and melon, this pulls no French oak, it has a toasty, caramelized opulence that abv: 13.5% Price: $13 oak and made with a good dose of malolactic fermen- abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 14% Price: $22 punches. The palate is heavy and sticky, with power- the underlying tropical fruit, apricot, pear and citrus tation, this Chardonnay is dominated buttered toast ful, hard-driving mango, orange and toffee flavors. A flavors are easily able to handle. —S.H. Testarossa 2011 Cuvée Los Gatos Chardonnay and popcorn flavors. It’s an opulent style of Chardon- Ferrari-Carano 2010 Emelia’s Cuvée Chardon- Viña Requingua 2011 Toro de Piedra Grand sugary finish with a caramel flavor closes the show. abv: 14.2% Price: $32 90 (Monterey County). Although priced consid- nay, but obscures pleasant flavors of tropical fruit, 86 nay (Russian River Valley). Oak layers onto 86 Reserve Single Vineyard Syrah-Cabernet Sau- Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. erably less than Testarossa’s single-vineyard bottlings, pear and apricot. —S.H. more oak in this toasty, buttery Chardonnay. Some- vignon (Curicó Valley). Blackberry, cola and herbal abv: 12% Price: $14 The Gardener 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River this Chard is nearly as good. It’s rich with tropical abv: 13.5% Price: $50 where underneath all that wood is a soft wine with aromas form a stout, slightly green nose. This feels 92 Valley). This is a fine Chardonnay that’s brisk fruits, vanilla custard, buttered toast and cinnamon pineapple, peach and tropical fruit flavors. —S.H. stocky and clipped, with oaky weight. Flavors of roast- Maray 2011 Reserva Late Harvest Muscat (Li- with acidity and dry, yet rich with flavors of tropical spice flavors, all brightened by crisp acidity.Editors’ Artesa 2011 Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros). abv: 14.3% Price: $38 ed berry fruits are herbal and oaky, while mint, vanilla, 84 marí Valley). Botrytis aromas feature touches fruits, green apples, hazelnuts and toasty oak. There’s Choice. —S.H. 87 This reserve bottling takes the winery’s ba- licorice and wood resin flavors drive the finish on this of peach and honey. This is sticky but reasonably acid- also a minerality that extends the finish beautifully. abv: 14.1% Price: $23 sic 2011 Chardonnay and elevantes it with rich fruit Hendry 2011 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Cabernet-Syrah blend. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. ic, with flavors of peach, lychee and honey. On the fin- You might want to give it a year or two in the cellar. and oak flavors. It’s flamboyant in style with buttered 86 (Napa Valley). New French oak lends toasty abv: 14% Price: $12 ish, it falls off in terms of clarity and turns somewhat The grapes are from Marimar Torres’s esteemed Don River Road 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Russian toast, lemon custard, papaya and vanilla bean flavors, flavors of wood and butterscotch to this Chardonnay. bitter. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.S. Miguel Vineyard. —S.H. 89 River Valley). The 2012 reserve costs only $3 but balanced with good acidity. —S.H. It’s rich and opulent with flavors of pineapple, orange Ventisquero 2009 Vertice Apalta Vineyard abv: 13% Price: $11/375 ml abv: 13.7% Price: $35 more than the regular bottling, but it’s a richer wine abv: NA Price: $40 and buttered toast. —S.H. 85 Carmenère-Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Imme- balanced with bright, citrusy acidity. The palate is dry abv: 14.7% Price: $30 diately this presents itself as being raisiny. The nose Alta Maria 2012 Rancho Viñedo Chardonnay with flavors of Bosc pears, green apples, vanilla cream Castle Rock 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Rus- is soupy and soft, and frankly so is the palate, which CALIFORNIA 91 (Santa Maria Valley). This classic cool-climate and toasted marshmallows. —S.H. 87 sian River Valley). This wine has brisk acidity, Patz & Hall 2011 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay is jammy and shapeless. Ultraripe, stewy berry flavors California Chardonnay shows intensely concentrat- abv: 13.7% Price: $19 a clean mouthfeel and satisfying flavors of green ap- 86 (Carneros). The chilly vintage seems to have are baked and finish with prune notes. 2009 was a hot WHITE WINES ed kumquat, lime and peach flavors, off set by bright ples, Mandarin oranges and sweet buttered toast. It’s robbed this Chardonnay of ripeness. It’s dry and oaky, year in Chile; this blend of Syrah and Carmenère re- acidity. There’s quite a bit of oak on it, but it’s bal- Sante Arcangeli 2012 Bald Mountain Vineyard a lovely Chardonnay to drink now, and priced fairly. with subtle tropical fruit flavors compromised by flects every degree and ray of sun. San Francisco Wine CHARDONNAY anced, and adds a pleasant layer of buttered toast fla- 89 Chardonnay (Ben Lomond Mountain). This —S.H. some green herb notes. —S.H. Exchange. —M.S. vor. —S.H. Chardonnay is almost Chablisian—it’s bone dry, bris- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.2% Price: $58 abv: 14.5% Price: $37 Alta Maria 2012 Bien Nacido Chardonnay (San- abv: 13.9% Price: $40 tling with acidity, and modest in alcohol. There’s a lick 93 ta Maria Valley). This bottling shows rich kum- of minerality to the lemon peel, apricot and buttered MacRostie 2011 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay Rutherford Ranch 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Val- Concha y Toro 2011 Casillero del Diablo Reserva quat, peach, pear and mango flavors, along with the Hunnicutt 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For toast flavors that makes the wine tangy. It’s ready to 87 (Russian River Valley). This wine is luxurious 86 ley). This soft, candied Chardonnay is enor- 84 Winemaker’s Blend (Rapel Valley). Green aro- brisk acidity of a well-grown Santa Maria Chardonnay. 91 full review see page 8. drink now. —S.H. with intense pineapple and tropical fruit flavors, but mously fruity with flavors of orange, peach, apricot, mas of grass and mint lead the way on this unspecified Yet it has the extra features of minerality and flinti- abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 feels a bit overworked with buttery, toasty oak notes. tropical fruit and buttered toast. Crisp acidity adds blend of red grapes. The palate is full and solid in feel, ness that make it especially memorable. —S.H. —S.H. some balance. —S.H. while sweet, almost candied flavors of blackberry fin- abv: 13.7% Price: $38 Rusack 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Coun- Alta Maria 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $44 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ish creamy but with a sweetness that seems artificial. 91 ty). Flashy and opulent in style, this Chardon- 88 ley). Alta Maria’s appellation bottling is a bit Excelsior Wines. —M.S. Fort Ross 2011 Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay nay is full of ripe apricot, Meyer lemon, white peach leaner than the winery’s single-vineyard bottlings, but Matanzas Creek 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Reserve Chardon- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 93 (Fort Ross-Seaview). Made from grapes grown and oak flavors. It would be quite a fruit bomb were it quite elegant, with flint, pink grapefruit, mango and 87 County). The oak is pretty strong on this Char- 86 nay (Sta. Rita Hills). Oaky flavors of buttered in a coastal, cool-climate vineyard, this Chardonnay is not for superb acidity and a mineral tang—like a lick spearmint flavors, enhanced by a touch of oak. —S.H. donnay, dominating the fruit with buttered toast and toast and butterscotch dominate this simple Char- gracefully minerally and acidic. It has all the tart, wet- of cold steel. The grapes are exclusively from the Bien abv: 13.5% Price: $28 butterscotch flavors. Still, it has some fat, unctuous donnay. It has ripe flavors of pineapples, mangoes and SWEET WINES stone tang you could want, along with intense quince, Nacido and Sierra Madre vineyards, two of the best in tropical fruit and pear flavors that are quite pleasant. peaches. —S.H. golden mango and Asian pear fruitiness. This lovely the Santa Maria Valley. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Bianchi 2012 El Camino Vineyard Signature Se- —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $24 Santa Alicia 2011 Late Harvest Estate Bottled wine is worth every cent of its price. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $24 88 lection Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). abv: 14.5% Price: $26 88 (Limarí Valley). Powdery, sweet —S.H. There’s a little oak on this Chard, but you can hardly Schug 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Carneros). aromas of peach and melon are tropical and suggest abv: 12.8% Price: $42 Sonoma Cuvée 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River detect it. The flavors are all about ripe pineapples, or- Peju 2012 Persephone Vineyard Chardonnay 86 100% barrel fermented in 50% new French botrytis. The palate is smooth, juicy and fresh, with 91 Valley). Put this Chardonnay in a blind tasting anges, peaches and apricots, accented by crisp acidity. 87 (Napa Valley). A grassy hint of sweet pea is oak, this wine is dominated by flavors of buttered weight and flavors of orange, peach and mango. A hon- Fort Ross 2011 Fort Ross Vineyard Reserve with Chards two or three times its price, and it will A fine example of coastal California Chardonnay, it unusual in Chardonnay, but not entirely unpleasant. toast, vanilla and butterscotch. Underneath all the oak eyed, creamy finish with good acidity is a nice ending. 93 Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). This is a big easily hold its own. It’s dry, crisp and balanced, with will marry well with grilled salmon. Editors’ Choice. They bring an earthiness to otherwise straightforward is a wine that’s quite brisk with acidity and a delicious Halby Marketing. —M.S. Chardonnay that’s oaky and ripe with fruit. Flavors a creamy mouthfeel framing Meyer lemon, lime, pine- —S.H. tropical fruit and oak notes. Drink now. —S.H. pineapple-jam flavor. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $15/375 ml of cream, lees, toast, Mandarin oanges, apricots and apple and papaya flavors. What a great price for such abv: 14.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 stewed peaches all mingle together in a spicy, com- a sophisticated Chardonnay. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Anakena 2012 Late Harvest Viognier (Cacha- plex and dry wine. Four additional years in the cellar abv: 14.5% Price: $18 MacRostie 2011 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Schug 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). This Char- Scott Family 2012 Estate Dijon Clone Chardon- 87 poal Valley). Dusty, smooth aromas of spiced will allow it to integrate beautifully. Cellar Selection. 88 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). The first im- 87 donnay isn’t as oaky as the winery’s more 86 nay (Arroyo Seco). This wine is dry, but it’s apple are easy to like. This is sticky, with just enough —S.H. Manzoni 2012 North Highlands Cuvée Char- pression this Chardonnay offers is of sweet oak with expensive estate bottling. Its barrel notes don’t over- so rich with flavors of ripe tropical fruits, honey and acidity to maintain freshness. Flavors of peach, honey abv: 13% Price: $60 90 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Intensely powerful notes of buttered toast and butterscotch. whelm the wine, allowing bright citrus, tropical fruit white peaches, it’s lush and opulent in style. Bright and nutmeg are sweet and spicy, while the finish is up- ripe with fruit, this is Manzoni’s best Chardonnay Underneath you’ll find flavors of pineapple and pear and peach flavors to show through. The palate is ac- acidity makes it a mouthwatering pairing with shell- right and feels lively. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. Three Sticks 2011 Durell Vineyard Origin Char- yet. Previous vintages may have had greater elegance jam. It’s not a subtle wine, but it is delicious. Drink cented with brisk acidity. —S.H. fish dishes in cream sauce, or a salad with goat cheese. abv: 13% Price: $13 93 donnay (Sonoma Valley). This is possibly the and precision, but this one shines spotlight on a rich now with lobster or crab. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 —S.H. richest, ripest unoaked Chardonnay ever made in Cali- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 fornia. It’s so powerful with tropical fruit, lemon drop,

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 51

BUYINGGUIDE

Artesa 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). Forward nay. It has just enough acidity to keep things balanced. touch of oak. The palate is full of California-ripe Mey- dry in style, making it a versatile wine at the dinner River Road 2012 Reserve Un-Oaked Pinot Gris a balanced white, ready to be enjoyed with a salad 85 fruit and oak flavors mark this clean, swift —S.H. er lemons and peaches with a touch of New Zealand table. —S.H. 87 (Russian River Valley). A note of petrol might dressed with figs and goat cheese. —V.B. Chardonnay. The palate boasts apricot, papaya and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 gooseberry. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $36 make you think this was Riesling, but no, it’s Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $24 buttered toast flavors, balanced with crisp acidity. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Gris, and a fine one, with that oily note accompanying —S.H. Acronym 2012 Chardonnay (California). Simple Uppercut 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). citrus, honey and white licorice flavors, leading to a Husch 2012 Gewurztraminer (Anderson Val- abv: NA Price: $20 82 and soft, this Chard is a juicy, forward blend of McFadden Vineyard 2012 Sauvignon Blanc 87 This is a light, tropical Sauvignon Blanc that’s dry, spicy finish. A minor criticism is that the acidity 88 ley). A value Gewurztraminer made from good pineapple, mango and peach flavors. —S.H. 89 (Potter Valley). Aromatically reminiscent of widely distributed. The palate is marked by pleasant could be higher. But it will be wonderful with pan- fruit, this is easy to enjoy with its spicy apricot and Ferrari-Carano 2011 Tré Terre Chardonnay (Rus- abv: 13% Price: $20 creme brûlée, this delightful Mendocino-grown wine, layers of pineapple, guava and melon. On the finish a Asian fare. —S.H. lychee flavors. At 8 g/L residual sugar, there’s just 85 sian River Valley). Buttered toast, popcorn and made from organically grown grapes, is crisp, clean streak of lemon lingers awhile. A great wine for par- abv: 13.2% Price: $16 enough sweetness to keep it interesting, but not dis- butterscotch flavors mark this Chardonnay. The un- Vinum Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia and bright with grapefruit flavor. Textured, and with ties, picnics and other casual gatherings. Best Buy. tract. The wine finishes dry and its juiciness calls out derlying wine struggles to come through, but shows 82 Highlands). Tart acidity combined with can- some flesh to its bones, it should pair especially well —V.B. Ferrari-Carano 2012 Pinot Grigio (Sonoma for smoked salmon. —V.B. good acidity and tropical fruit, lime and orange flavors. died flavors of pineapples and butterscotch mark this with wintertime shellfish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12 86 County). There’s a touch of honeyed sweet- abv: 13.9% Price: $14 —S.H. simple Chardonnay. Finishes a bit sour. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ness to this Pinot Grigio, but it finishes dry and clean abv: 14.4% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Bianchi 2012 Signature Selection Sauvignon with acidity. The Meyer lemon, honeydew, peach and Highway 253 2012 Gewürztraminer (Mendoci- Shannon Ridge 2012 High Elevation Collection 86 Blanc (Monterey). This is a nice Sauvignon green apple flavors are sunny and rip. It’s a nice wine 87 no). Faint aromatically with dialed-high acid- Flying Horse Winery 2009 Chardonnay (Rus- 89 Sauvignon Blanc (High Valley). While creamy Blanc for drinking now with ethnic fare, from Mexican to drink with southeast Asian and fusion fare. —S.H. ity, this Gewürztraminer is subtle with stonefruit and 85 sian River Valley). Sweet oak, buttered toast VIOGNIER in texture, and with rich vanilla, honey and pear fla- to Vietnamese and Ethiopian. Its acidic citrus flavors abv: 13.7% Price: $17 lime flavors, along with layers of Asian spice filling in and caramel flavors dominate this Chardonnay, over- vors, this SB has a cleansing citrus mid-palate where will brighten and heighten richly sauced chicken dish- the mid palate. The finish is dry and lingering. A good whelming flavors of tropical fruits at the core. The pal- Kobler 2012 Viognier (Russian River Valley). This it’s crisp, bright personality shines through. Well es, . —S.H. Santa Barbara Winery 2012 Thompson Vine- go-to pick for Asian food. —V.B. ate feels soft, making the oak even more pronounced. 91 is a very fine expression of Viognier, showing priced and well made, this is a good representative of abv: 13.5% Price: $13 86 yard Pinot Gris (Santa Barbara County). Rich abv: 14.1% Price: $17 —S.H. an intensity of flavors, but maintaining balance, ele- Lake County’s new High Valley AVA. —V.B. and extracted, this Pinot Gris is full of flavors of trop- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 gance, and a dry profile. Waves of honeysuckle, orang- abv: 13.8% Price: $15 Rutherford Ranch 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa ical fruit, pear jam, vanilla, honey and buttered cin- es, limes, pears and oak are offset by minerality and 86 Valley). Flavors of Meyer lemon, lime and namon toast. It’s lush, if a little one dimensional, but MUSCAT Kunde 2012 Kinneybrook Chardonnay (Sonoma acidity. Richly extracted, it will pair well with scallop, Alpha Omega 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa grapefruit are accented with a tang of gooseberries in brisk acidity gives it a bracing finish. —S.H. 85 County). Lemondrop, buttered toast and va- lobster and crab entrées. —S.H. 88 Valley). Cabernet specialist Alpha Omega is this wine. The finish is lively and dry, with a scour of abv: 14.7% Price: $17 Bodkin 2012 Sandy Bend Vineyard Muscat nilla cream flavors mark this soft, opulent Chardon- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 increasingly showing a knack with Sauvignon Blanc. mouthwatering acidity. Production was 2,500 cases. 88 Canelli (Lake County). Delicate with just 14 nay. It becomes a little cloying on the finish. —S.H. This vintage shows crisp acidity and a dry palate with —S.H. Terlato 2012 Pinot Grigio (Russian River Val- g/L residual sugar, this lovely wine is ready to enjoy. abv: 13.7% Price: $17 Miraflores 2012 Estate Viognier (El Dorado). flavors of citrus, tropical fruit, grass, honey and oak. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 86 ley). This is an easy, fruity wine with sharp Bright acidity lends a touch of sparkle between layers 89 While forward with stonefruit and honey, —S.H. acidity that balances ripe flavors of citrus, tropical of citrus and coconut. An ideal wine for spicy Spanish Mandolin 2012 Chardonnay (Monterey). For along with toasty oak and vanilla notes, this is a struc- abv: 14.2% Price: $38 River Star 2012 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc fruits, peaches, honeysuckle and vanilla bean. It fin- tapas or Thai curries. —V.B. 85 full review see page 13. Best Buy. tured Viognier that’s crisp and fresh. Drink with Thai 85 (Paso Robles). Flavors of ripe tropical fruit, ishes a little off-dry. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 food or buttery lobster. —V.B. Angel’s Secret 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (High Val- citrus and green apple mark this crisp Sauvignon abv: 13.8% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $20 88 ley). There’s lots of grapefruit and kiwi flavor Blanc. It finishes dry, despite a burst of honey in the J. Rickards 2012 Muscat Blanc (North Coast). Midnight Cellars 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Paso here, as well as a touch of creme brûlée. High toned in middle. —S.H. Bianchi 2012 Los Alamos Vineyard Pinot Grigio 87 Tasting fairly dry at 16 g/L residual sugar, this 85 Robles). This Chardonnay underwent aging in Stark 2012 Damiano Vineyard Viognier (Sierra style, it has a rounded body, along with a suggestion of abv: 13.7% Price: $14 84 (Santa Barbara County). You’ll find lots of ripe wine exudes lemon and peach flavors. Made in a full- new French oak and sur lie battonage, yielding a wine 88 Foothills). This wine was fermented half in herbs. The finish is long and satisfying. —V.B. orange, pineapple, lemon and honeysuckle flavors in er style, it’s got some meat on its bones, along with that’s certainly rich, but also jammy with flavors of stainless steel and half in neutral oak, and did not abv: 13.6% Price: $17 Husch 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino). this crisp, acidic Pinot Grigio. It finishes with a hint of a drop of oak on the palate. Pair with full-flavored pineapples, oranges and vanilla cream. —S.H. undergo malolactic fermentation. The result is a tex- 84 Husch has been making Sauvignon Blanc since maple syrup. —S.H. foods, where it’ll shine more brightly than as an apéri- abv: 14.3% Price: $26 tured, rich explosion of honeysuckle, spice and lemon El Roy 2010 Nelson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 1980. This one is fairly full-bodied with a thread of abv: 13.7% Price: $15 tif. —V.B. zest flavors that finishes with a minerally, flinty char- 88 (Dry Creek Valley). With flavors of grass, acidity weaving in and out of the tropical fruit flavors. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Murphy-Goode 2012 Chardonnay (California). acter. —V.B. grapefruits and tropical fruits, this is a lovely wine In the background, hints of peach and grass linger. McManis 2012 Pinot Grigio (California). Mc- 85 There are basic flavors of oranges, apples, abv: 14.2% Price: $28 to drink now. It’s dry and savory, with a brisk hit of —V.B. 84 Manis’s affordable, widely distributed Pinot Santa Barbara Winery 2012 Orange Muscat pears and oak in this Chard. There’s also a sea-salt acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $14 Grigio is fermented in stainless steel, light in texture 87 (Santa Barbara County). Some might charac- tang that makes it savory and suggests pairing with Larner 2011 Estate Grown Viognier (Santa Ynez abv: 13.9% Price: $15 and fairly one-dimensional in flavor. It’s crisp and terize this as a dessert wine, but it’s actually quite dry, seafood. —S.H. 87 Valley). This dry, powerful 100% Viognier Patland 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). clean with a sour lemon note. It’ll work for large par- with brisk acidity accompanying orange, peach, honey abv: 13.5% Price: $14 dazzles with intensely ripe Meyer lemon, lime, peach, Merry Edwards 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian 84 Barrel aging and contact with lees give this ties and get togethers. —V.B. and vanilla flavors. No oak was involved, leaving the honeysuckle and oak flavors. With crisp acidity for 88 River Valley). High-toned gooseberry, pear, wine a rich creaminess, and there’s also plenty of abv: 11.5% Price: $10 wine fresh and vibrant. —S.H. Patland 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Pow- balance, it’s an opulent wine for drinking now. —S.H. papaya and fig flavors mark this dry, but creamy Sau- acidity. Hints of unripe grapes lend mint and ammonia abv: 13.7% Price: $17 85 erful oak dominates this wine, giving it a flavor abv: 14% Price: $28 vignon Blanc. It’s rich with fruit, yet dry on the finish notes that dominate citrus flavors. —S.H. The White Knight 2012 Pinot Grigio (Lodi). of buttered toast and a caramel richness. Underlying with brisk acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 84 This is a light, steely white with more honey- Enotria 2012 Moscato (Mendocino County). all the oak, there’s tart acidity and flavors of citrus and Three Coins 2012 Lawer Family Betsy’s Vine- abv: 13.9% Price: $32 suckle and floral characteristics than fruit. It’s light in 86 With 100 g/L residual sugar, this is a pleas- tropical fruits. —S.H. 86 yard Viognier (Knights Valley). This Viognier un4seen 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Notes alcohol and texture, and especially good for the wine antly sweet Moscato, with opening aromas of rose abv: 14.4% Price: $60 shows off the variety’s characteristic tropical fruit, Wellington 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma 84 of sour apple and lemon accompany this drinker looking for something subtle. —V.B. water and jasmine that delve into sweet peach and honeysuckle and apricot flavors, with an oaky finish 88 Valley). This beautiful Sauvignon Blanc is wine’s dialed-high acidity. Priced to sell, it’ll suffice in abv: 12.5% Price: $13 apple on the palate. Light and soft, it will satisfy as Robert Mondavi 2012 Private Selection Char- and a trace of honey. There’s a bit of overripeness on for drinking now. It’s brisk in acidity, with pineapple, certain settings as an apéritif or quaffer with snacks. an accompaniment to strong cheeses or salumi. Best 84 donnay (Central Coast). Soft and rich with this lush, soft wine, but the finish is dry. —S.H. lemon, grapefruit, grass and vanilla flavors that are —V.B. Buy. —V.B. pineapple, lemon candy and oak flavors, this simple abv: 14.2% Price: $26 honeyed but finish dry. This tantalizing wine will nice- abv: 13.2% Price: $10 GEWÜRZTRAMINER abv: 8.5% Price: $10 Chardonnay has the benefit of acidity for balance. It’s ly accompany today’s Asian fusion fare. —S.H. a nice, basic Chard at an everyday price. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 V. Sattui 2012 Dry Gewurztraminer (Anderson un4seen 2012 Moscato (Clarksburg). Floral abv: 13.5% Price: $11 SAUVIGNON BLANC PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO 90 Valley). This is a very good dry Gewürztra- 86 with notes of jasmine, this Clarksburg Mos- Kelly Fleming 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- miner that’s laden in jasmine and honey, extreme- cato shows the appellation can do more than just Vinterra 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Sim- One Three 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 87 ley). Some oak barrel influence lends a creamy, Waterstone 2012 Pinot Gris (Napa Valley). For ly perfumed on the nose, and light and crisp on the Chenin Blanc. It’s balanced on the palate with flavors 84 ple, direct flavors of pineapple and orange jam, 90 ley). This is the kind of wine that tastes like smoky note to the citrus and tropical fruit flavors in 88 full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. palate. With a suggestion of vanilla on the finish, it’s of pear, peach and lime that meld sweetly. Best Buy. vanilla bean and buttered popcorn mark this Chardon- no effort was spared in its production. It’s impeccably this 100% Sauvignon Blanc. It’s brisk with acidity and abv: 13.5% Price: $18 —V.B. made, with clean, ripe fruit, crisp acidity and a nice abv: 10.5% Price: $10

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 53

BUYINGGUIDE

in this blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Char- and acidic, with a mineral intensity that finishes with Vie Winery 2012 Belle-Amie Rosé (Santa Barba- Alpha Omega 2010 ERA (Napa Valley). There’s Kelly Fleming 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa WHITE BLENDS donnay. It’s a bit stewed in fruit, though, and ready to elegance and style. —S.H. 82 ra County). A GSM blend, aged in neutral oak, 93 a fine wine hiding inside this Cabernet Sau- 92 Valley). Sheer lusciousness marks this 100% drink now with sweetish fare. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $38 this is a dark and heavy blush wine showing Lifesaver vignon-based blend, which contains Cabernet Franc Cabernet. It was grown on the estate vineyard in David Girard 2012 Coda Blanc (El Dorado). abv: 14% Price: $40 candy cherry and raspberry flavors. —S.H. and Merlot. But its qualities are buried beneath Calistoga, and shows great ripeness even in this cool 90 Pretty with floral jasmine notes, this is a Wellington 2011 Estate (Sonoma Val- abv: 12.9% Price: $18 strong tannins. The fruit is impossibly young, all jam- vintage. Brimming with blackberry, currant, blue­ blend of 32% , 24% Marsanne, 19% Gre- Ascension Cellars 2010 Cass Vineyard Elevation 87 ley). This California Marsanne is deliciously my cherries and blackberries, and new oak sticks out berry and mocha flavors, it’s also rich in oak, courtesy nache Blanc, 18% Viognier and 7% . Fer- 82 White (Paso Robles). The blend of this wine is ripe and fruity with flavors of apricots, oranges, limes, in the form of buttered toast. It’s all very imposing, of 80% new French barrels. The alcohol is relatively mented in stainless steel, Vermentino’s aromas shine Viognier, Marsanne, Chardonnay and Roussanne. It’s papayas and honey. A touch of oak adds vanilla toast, CALIFORNIA so don’t even think about drinking it anytime soon. high, but it gives warmth, rather than heat. Drink from brightly through, along with a burst of Mandarin or- honeyed on the palate with tropical fruits, but marred and there’s just enough acidity for balance. —S.H. Should begin to blossom around 2018, and will be go- 2018 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ange, grapefruit and lemon zest. It’s bright and miner- by a vegetal streak of boiled asparagus that’s hard to abv: 13.6% Price: $22 RED WINES ing strong for another decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $110 al laden, and very easy to enjoy. —V.B. get over. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $210 abv: 13.6% Price: $18 abv: 14.1% Price: $26 Sobon Estate 2012 Roussanne (Amador Coun- CABERNET SAUVIGNON Prime 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Coombsville). 85 ty). This is a varietal Roussanne that’s pun- Cornerstone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell 92 For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. Monte Volpe 2012 Nube Bianco (Potter Valley). gent with herbs, honey and vanilla, along with strong Marita’s Vineyard 2007 Select Private Reserve 93 Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar abv: 13.9% Price: $64 88 This white blend of Vermentino, Moscato OTHER WHITE WINES flavors of black tea and oak that somewhat overpower 97 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This ex- Selection. Giallo, Fiano and Pinot Grigio is elegant and austere the fruit. Waxy on the finish. Serve chilled and drink traordinary winery continues to produce some of Na- abv: 14.7% Price: $80 Rocca 2010 Collinetta Vineyard Cabernet Sau- with notes of lemon and grass. Herbal and fresh, it David Girard 2012 Estate Vineyard Grenache young. —V.B. pa’s most distinguished Cabernets. The vineyard is in 92 vignon (Coombsville). Coming on the heels of shines with Vermentino’s distinct personality. This 88 Blanc (El Dorado). Floral notes, as well as hints abv: 14.5% Price: $16 the cool-climate appellation of Coombsville, which Elyse 2008 Morisoli Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- the extraordinary 2009 vintage, this ’10 is a worthy is a unique white blend from Mendocino with Italian of lemon, pear and pineapple introduce this high-acid accounts for its superb structure of acids and tannins. 93 gnon (Rutherford). This wine contains a drop followup. It’s bone dry, tannic and enormously com- roots that’s definitely worth trying. —V.B. white. It’s full-bodied on the palate, and intense and Perfectly ripe black-currant flavors meld into toasty of Petit Verdot. At more than five years of age, it has plex, offering waves of blackberry, currant, cola, new abv: 13.5% Price: $18 well integrated, with a finish that’s delightfully spicy SPARKLING WINES new-oak tones. At the age of more than six years, the shed its babyfat, and is starting to develop bottle com- oak and spice flavors. It’s so good now, you may not with ginger. —V.B. wine is starting to mellow, but is only hinting at the plexity. You can certainly drink it now for its luscious want to cellar it, but try. It will begin to approach its Silver Horse 2012 Lazy J Viognier-Albariño abv: 14.1% Price: $28 Schug 2010 Rouge de Noirs Brut Pinot Noir drama to come. It has enough splendor to glidepath red cherry, blueberry, licorice and spice flavors. The peak after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 88 (Paso Robles). This wine expresses the 86 (Carneros). The dark ruby color of this 100% through the decades. Cellar Selection. —S.H. tannins are as velvety smooth as anything in Napa Val- abv: 14.9% Price: $85 mouthwatering acidity of both of its grape varieties, David Girard 2011 Estate Vineyard Roussanne Pinot sparkling wine suggests how extracted and bold abv: 14% Price: $150 ley. However, it’s guaranteed to continue to develop with Viognier’s exotic tropical fruit and honeysuckle 88 (El Dorado). Spicy and fleshy, this is a 75% it is. It’s full-bodied and dry with rich flavors of cherry well in the bottle. Hold until 2018, at the very least. Rodney Strong 2010 Alexander’s Crown Caber- flavors, alongside Albariño’s refreshing minerals and Roussanne, 25% Marsanne with 8% Grenache pie filling, Dr. Pepper cola, vanilla, brioche and toast. Caldwell 2010 Gold Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Cellar Selection. —S.H. 92 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full re- lemon flavors. —S.H. Blanc. It exhibits its Roussanne nature most promi- The mouthfeel is scoury with big bubbles. —S.H. 95 Valley). Big, rich, and dramatic are just a few abv: 14.8% Price: $70 view see page 7. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 nently with notes of pear and honey intermixed with abv: 12% Price: $35 words that describe this 100% Cabernet grown on the abv: 15.5% Price: $75 full-bodied fig and toasty oak. A juicy example of well- low-yielding estate vineyard in Coombsville. It’s lush Marita’s Vineyard 2007 SOMA Cabernet Sauvi- Ascension Cellars 2010 Cass Vineyard Cumulus made Roussanne. —V.B. Ballatore NV Gran Spumante (California). Sim- with black currants, yet bracing in tannins, with a 93 gnon (Napa Valley). The 2005 and 2006 bot- Beringer 2010 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- 87 (Paso Robles). Comprised of Viognier, Mar- abv: 13.9% Price: $23 84 ilar to previous Ballatore Spumantes, this minerality that makes it feel firm and grounded. The tlings of this Cabernet were awesome. So is this 2007. 91 gnon (Napa Valley). Gilded with toasty oak, this sanne and Roussanne, this is an exuberantly fruity bubbly is sweet with honey notes and a bit scoury in barrels are 100% new French oak, lending a savory At the age of more than six years, it’s just beginning its Cabernet is opulent with flavors of blackberries, cassis wine. It has powerful, ripe flavors of tropical fruits, Silver Horse 2012 Albariño (Edna Valley). the mouth. Flavors of orange jam, vanilla and yeast are level of char and vanilla. This is clearly a wine to cellar long journey. It’s still tannic, but with ripe, sweet tan- liqueur and mocha. The tannic mouthfeel is elegant, citrus, peaches, oak and vanilla. Like ambrosia in the 88 There’s no oak on this wine, which allows balanced with fine acidity. —S.H. for a long time. Start enjoying it in 2018, and it is like- nins that frame gorgeous, deeply satisfying blueberry, complex and dramatic. Blended with Cabernet Franc glass, it’s honeyed and opulent. —S.H. fruit to take front and center. It’s rich with apricots, abv: 9% Price: $10 ly to develop bottle complexity throughout the 2020s. black currant, mocha and cedar flavors. It drinks well and Merlot, it’s delicious and heady for drinking now abv: 14.7% Price: $32 lemons, vanilla bean and white pepper, but balanced Cellar Selection. —S.H. now, and will develop further in the bottle over the and over the next six years. —S.H. with acidity and a fresh grassy note. It’s priced expen- abv: 14.4% Price: $165 next eight years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $160 Ferrari-Carano 2012 Bella Luce (Sonoma Coun- sively for a California Albariño, but the wine is dry, SWEET WINE abv: 14% Price: $86 87 ty). This is great bargain for a white wine this sophisticated and elegant. —S.H. Stone The Crows 2011 Three Twins Vineyard Blue Rock 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander stylish and tasty. A blend of five varieties, it’s rich and abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Fort Ross 2012 Late Harvest Chardonnay (Fort 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- Rodney Strong 2010 Rockaway Cabernet Sau- 91 Valley). It’s tempting to dismiss this wine as ripe with flavors of tangerine, stonefruit, lime, vanil- 87 Ross-Seaview). Honey, tangerine, apricot and view see page 3. Cellar Selection. 93 vignon (Alexander Valley). For full review see simply another oaky fruit bomb, but that would be a la, cream and honey, accented with crisp acidity. They Fenestra 2012 Semillon (Livermore Valley). vanilla flavors characterize this dessert wine. With a abv: 14.5% Price: $85 page 5. Cellar Selection. mistake. Yes, it’s enormously rich and ripe with flavors all come together into a seamless, easy-drinking and 87 High-toned with lemon-rind notes against an residual sugar of 97 g/L, it’s intensely sweet, but bal- abv: 15% Price: $75 of blackberries and cherries, along with a caramelized slightly sweet sipper. —S.H. undertone of oak, this woodsy Sémillon is crisp and anced with crisp acidity. —S.H. Goldschmidt 2008 Game Ranch Single Vine- opulence from oak barrels. But the acidity is perfect, abv: 13.4% Price: $13 bright with acidity. It develops into a fuller style in the abv: 12.5% Price: $45/375 ml 94 yard Selection PLUS Cabernet Sauvignon Cornerstone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and the tannins are pure and lovely. The result is an glass and on the finish. Fenestra makes a lot of differ- (Oakville). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. 92 Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar Se- elegant, balanced Cabernet, that will age gracefully for ONX 2012 Field Day (Paso Robles). Dry in style ent wines in small lots and this is one worth trying. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 lection. many years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 87 and acidic, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and —V.B. ROSÉS abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.3% Price: $45 Viognier is marked by quince, papaya and Meyer lem- abv: 14.4% Price: $17 Hunnicutt 2010 9-3-5 Cabernet Sauvignon on flavors. Despite its honeyed richness, it finishes Fort Ross 2012 Rosé Pinot Noir (Fort Ross- 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Cel- Delgadillo 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Goldschmidt 2010 Yoeman Vineyard Single Vine- clean and tart with citrusy acidity. —S.H. Priest Ranch 2012 Somerston Estate Grenache 86 Seaview). Crisp acidity combined with ripe lar Selection. 92 Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar Se- 91 yard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander abv: 14.4% Price: $28 87 Blanc (Napa Valley). A touch of oak brings fruit is pleasant here, but this blush is a tad heavy and abv: 14.6% Price: $125 lection. Valley). For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection. some smoky, vanilla flavors to this wine, but the real lacking in delicacy. The color is dark, and the wine is abv: 15% Price: $85 abv: 14.6% Price: $85 Skinnygirl 2011 White (California). White stars are the tangerines, Asian pears, Meyer lemons rich with raspberry jam and spices. —S.H. Signorello 2010 Padrone Cabernet Sauvignon 86 blends like this are increasingly popular in and honeysuckle. The wine is rich, but brightened abv: 13.5% Price: $24 94 (Napa Valley). This is 100% Cabernet Sau- Ferrari-Carano 2008 PreVail Back Forty Cab- Les Belles Collines 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon America for versatility and sheer likeability. Made with brilliant acidity. —S.H. vignon, grown in the winery’s estate vineyard, on the 92 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Sourced 91 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. from Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Muscat Blanc, it’s abv: 14.3% Price: $22 Ballatore NV Moscato Rosé (California). This east side of Napa Valley. It’s awesomely rich and ripe, from a vineyard high up in the Mayacamas, on the abv: 13.5% Price: $65 a dry wine with crisp acidity alongside lemon and lime 84 blush wine will appeal to the Moscato crowd delivering heady blackberry, blueberry, cassis liqueur, Sonoma County side, this wine is intense with moun- flavors. The finish is pleasantly honeyed. —S.H. Terra Valentine 2012 Estate Riesling (Spring that likes sweet wines. With pretty pink and orange cola and new oak flavors that are as long in the finish tain grown fruit. The palate is full of ripe black cur- Les Belles Collines 2010 Les Sommets Cabernet abv: 12% Price: $15 87 Mountain). There’s a bit of oak in this Ries- hues, its scoury bubbles frame flavors of honey, rasp- as they are deep. With thick tannins, it’s clearly a wine rants, mocha and plenty of toasty oak. The tannins, 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see ling, just enough to give some mellowness to the tart berry jam and yeast. —S.H. you need to cellar. Drink 2016–2020 and beyond. Cel- while soft and pliant, are penetrating. All indications page 9. Cellar Selection. Westerly 2012 Fletcher’s White (Happy Canyon apricot, citrus and white flower flavors. It’s bone dry abv: 9% Price: $10 lar Selection. —S.H. are of a wine that wants time in the cellar. Drink from abv: 14.2% Price: $85 85 of Santa Barbara). You’ll find luxuriously ripe abv: 14.4% Price: $155 2016 till well beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. apricot, pineapple, white currant and peach flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $85

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 55

BUYINGGUIDE

Silverado 2010 Mt. George Vineyard Cabernet a raisin-skin bitterness, but there’s no denying its which is high and doesn’t seem to lose its heat. Drink Richard Perry 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Ranch 2010 Reserve Cabernet velop bottle nuances over the next six years. Cellar 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see immediate lushness. Softly tannic, it has fantastic fla- now. —S.H. 87 (Coombsville). While bottled for four years 86 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet is Selection. —S.H. page 9. Cellar Selection. vors of black currants and sweet toasted oak. If you abv: 15% Price: $95 now, this Cabernet is still developing bottle-aged tremendously extracted with dense cherry and black- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.4% Price: $56 drink it now, give it a few hours in the . —S.H. notes. It’s rich and jammy with blackberries, blueber- berry jam, as well as oak flavors. It’s tasty, but lacks abv: 14.1% Price: $92 Louis M. Martini 2010 Lot. No. 1 Cabernet Sau- ries, cherries and mocha, along with a good overlay vibrancy, and the finish is hot in alcohol. Drink up. Peju 2011 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This Ellman Family 2010 Jemma Red Wine (Napa 88 vignon (Napa Valley). Jammy blackberry and of oak. It’s a pleasant wine to drink over the next few —S.H. 91 lovely wine is delicately structured, but quite 90 Valley). For full review see page 10. Artesa 2010 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- blueberry flavors highlight this 100% Cab, along with years. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $48 complex and enjoyable. It has a silky texture framing abv: 14.8% Price: $79 89 gnon (Napa Valley). This Cab is about fruit plenty of sweet new oak. The tannins are bold, but ul- abv: 14.1% Price: $56 cherry and red currant flavors that are subtlely tinged and oak, sculpted together with precision and lus- tra-refined. High alcohol lends some heat as well as Yardstick 2011 Ruth’s Reach Cabernet Sauvi- with sweet pea and oak. Drink now–2017. —S.H. Faust 2009 The Pact Cabernet Sauvignon ciousness. Flavors of blackberries, cherries, licorice, a glycerine feel. It’s an unctuous, delicious wine, al- Sciandri Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 86 gnon (Napa Valley). This Cab is dry in style abv: 14.5% Price: $55 90 (Napa Valley). This 100% Cabernet is tannic, toast and exotic spice flood the mouth, leading to a though slightly overripe. —S.H. 87 (Napa Valley). At the age of more than five with opulent flavors of blackberry jam, currant and acidic and dry, yet remarkably fruity as well. It shows long finish. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $145 years, this 100% Cabernet still tastes fresh with new oak. The mouthfeel is a bit rough, and it’s not an Acorn 2010 Alegria Vineyards Cabernet Franc a classic cool-climate Napa structure, with blackberry, abv: NA Price: $45 blackberry, cassis and mocha flavors, along with plen- ager, but it will improve with an hour or two in a de- 87 (Russian River Valley). This is just what you currant and oak flavors. It’s not yet ready to drink, so Patland 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet ty of oak influence. There’s a soft lusciousness that canter. —S.H. want from a Cabernet Franc. It’s softly tannic and gen- give it at least six years in the cellar, and possibly far Buehler 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Stagecoach Cabs are makes it drinkable now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 tle in the mouth, with rich cherry, cola and oak flavors. longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 89 ley). Tasted alongside far more expensive always impressive for their power and depth, but this abv: 14.4% Price: $55 The addition of a few drops of Merlot and Petit Verdot abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Napa Cabs, this 100% varietal performed well. It’s one seems like Stagecoach on steroids. It’s insanely Artesa 2011 Elements Cabernet Sauvignon seems to add structural complexity. Drink now. —S.H. front loaded with blackberry jam that’s jacked up with rich and extracted with blackberry and cherry jam Vinum Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 85 (Sonoma County). As the name suggests, this abv: 13.5% Price: $32 Flying Horse Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon sweet, smoky oak. With a production of 15,000 cases, flavors, along with plenty of sweet oak. It’s so rich, it 87 Valley). One of the riper Cabs out there, this is an elemental Cabernet, offering pleasant blackberry, 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10. it’s easy to find this smoothly tannic wine. Drink now. could use 7–8 years to calm down. Cellar Selection. 100% varietal has flavors of crushed black pepper, cherry and oak flavors. Rich and ripe in California sun- Hendry 2009 Hendry Blocks 9D & 26 Cabernet abv: 14.2% Price: $65 —S.H. —S.H. milk chocolate, cassis, blueberries and oak. The heavy shine fruit, it’s smooth in tannins and easy to drink. 87 Franc (Napa Valley). This 100% Cab Franc abv: 13.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $90 extract is suggested by its inky dark color. With soft —S.H. shows the lush, sweet cherry flavors you expect from Katherine Goldschmidt 2011 Crazy Creek Cab- tannins and acidity, it will drink well over the next abv: NA Price: $18 the variety, along with with soft, luxurious tannins. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full Daviana 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Rutherford Ranch 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon four years. —S.H. It’s also very oaky. The bottom line is a gentle, fruity review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. 89 ley). This 100% Cabernet is so approachable 88 (Napa Valley). This is a nice buy for the price. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 Ascension Cellars 2010 Ethereal Cabernet Sau- wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 now. The palate offers waves of ripe blackberries, It contains a few drops of Merlot, and even a percent- 85 vignon (Paso Robles). The winery is part of the abv: 14.9% Price: $38 cherries, cassis and mocha, touched with oak and age of Zinfandel, making it dry in style and smooth on Continental Expedition 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- emerging garagiste movement in Paso Robles. It’s an Le Chanceux 2007 Belle Filles Vineyard Caber- wrapped in firm tannins. The grapes were grown in the palate with delicate tannins. The blackberry and 86 gnon (Napa Valley). This Cab is jammy with ambitious wine, blended with Petite Sirah and Mal- Clos La Chance 2011 Reserve Cabernet Franc 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Give this 100% the new Coombsville appellation of the valley. —S.H. black currant flavors are delicious, accented with a sa- black cherries, raspberries and oak, along with soft bec, both of which add complexity. But there’s a can- 86 (Central Coast). Straightforward in style, Cabernet just a little more time in the cellar. Even at abv: 14.8% Price: $65 vory note of black pepper. —S.H. tannins and a gentle scour of acidity. It’s a straightfor- died tone to the blackberry flavors that makes it lush this is a nice wine for drinking now. Dry and tannic, six-plus years of age, its tannins are hard, although the abv: 13.5% Price: $19 ward wine that’s ready to drink now. —S.H. and soft. —S.H. it shows blackberry jam, tea, mocha and new oak fla- primary blackberry fruit flavors are beginning to dry Ferrari-Carano 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex- abv: 14.5% Price: $39 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 vors. —S.H. out and become earthy. It should approach its peak 89 ander Valley). Flavors of rich, ripe blackberry Waterstone 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.2% Price: $35 around 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. jam, mocha and toast are wrapped into firm but re- 88 (Napa Valley). Made in an approachable, Justin 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Vinterra 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount abv: 14.2% Price: $65 fined tannins in this Cabernet. The most basic of the drink-me-now style, this Cab flatters with its wealth 86 Simple and direct, this wine is characterized 85 Veeder). Soft and oaky, this Cab is ready to Hagafen 2010 Estate Cabernet Franc (Napa winery’s Cabs, and the first of the vintage to be re- of blackberries, cherries, currants, licorice and oak. It by flavors of blackberry, currant, mocha and oak. It’s drink now for its lush blackberry jam and dark choc- 83 Valley). There’s a prickly, acidic bite to this dry Meteor 2010 Perseid Cabernet Sauvignon leased, it’s drinking well now and bodes well for the has rich, luxurious tannins and is full-bodied and dry. a softly tannic Cabernet with a large production of olate flavors. The tannins are dense, but the wine Cab Franc that gives it a sour finish, despite some solid 90 (Napa Valley). Despite rich, flashy blackberry coming 2011 reserves and blends. —S.H. —S.H. 48,000 cases. Dry and spicy, it’s ready to drink now. doesn’t have the stuffing to age. —S.H. cherry and oak flavors. Drink up. —S.H. and currant fruit, along with sweet oak flavors, this abv: 13.7% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $39 100% Cabernet is still tough and gritty with tannins abv: 14% Price: $26 at this stage. It has an astringency that’s hard to han- Shadybrook 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Faust 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Acronym 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor- dle, but time in the cellar should allow it to soften. 89 (Coombsville). This wine is rich and flashy 87 Lots of ripe blackberry, currant, toasty oak and Lawer Family 2011 Three Coins Cabernet Sauvi- 84 nia). This easy-drinking Cabernet has flavors MALBEC Start drinking it in 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. with flavors of blackberry and cherry jam, red currant, spice flavors shine in this dry, tannic young Cabernet. 86 gnon (Napa Valley). Flavors of ripe blackberry, of blackberry jam and toast, wrapped into firm tan- abv: 14.8% Price: $125 mocha, oak and spice. Firm tannins and zesty acid- Small proportions of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and cola and mulberry stand out in this dry, elegant Cab. nins. It won’t improve with age, so drink up with a Blue Rock 2010 Best Barrels Malbec (Alexan- ity add structure and brightness. It’s tasty now, but Cabernet Franc add complexity to the blend. Drink it The tannins are thick but the wine isn’t likely to im- juicy burger. —S.H. 94 der Valley). This Malbec is lush with flavors Peju 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). should be better by 2016, as it begins to develop bottle over the next few years. —S.H. prove with age, so drink soon. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $20 of ripe blueberries, blackberry jam, mocha and cassis 90 For full review see page 11. notes. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $60 abv: 13.9% Price: $55 all wrapped up with toasty oak. There’s fine acidity abv: 13.8% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $85 Spellbound 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor- and rich tannins as well. It’s one of the best examples Hendry 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Porter Family Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sau- 84 nia). This Cab is pretty good for the price. It’s of the variety in California, and endlessly enjoyable Rodney Strong 2010 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Vinterra 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 87 ley). The flavors are ripe with blackberries and 86 vignon (Napa Valley). Notes of overripeness ripe and fruity, with a full body and rich but soft tan- through a long, spicy finish. Kudos to winemaker/ 90 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full review 89 ley). Full of blackberry, black currant and oak currants in this 100% Cab, and ample new French mark this Cabernet, giving it a Port-like taste despite nins. Turns a bit treacly on the finish, with a dulcet, owner Kenny Kahn. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. see page 11. flavors all wrapped into smooth, firm tannins, this is a oak lends a fat, buttery, smoky richness. Yet there’s its dryness. Made from 100% Cabernet grown in honeyed richness. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $60 abv: 15.5% Price: $75 pleasant Cab to drink now and for the next few years. a harsh, scoury mouthfeel that is pronounced. Rich Coombsville, it’s lush with blackberry, chocolate and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 It’s as complex as any Cabernet you can find at this grilled beef will help tame it. —S.H. raisin flavors. —S.H. Imagery 2010 Malbec (Pine Mountain-Clover- Wellington 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sono- price in Napa Valley. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $55 abv: 14.7% Price: $86 90 dale Peak). This is one of the first wines to 90 ma County). Wellington held back this Cab abv: 13.5% Price: $30 CABERNET FRANC bear this new appellation in Sonoma County. More for all these years, with good results. The cherry and Mi Sueño 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Prime 2011 Midoriya Hills Vineyard Cabernet importantly, it’s one of the best California out blackberry flavors are just beginning to develop sec- Delgadillo 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 87 ley). Made from 100% Cab, this wine is bold- 86 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This vineyard has Prix 2009 Weir Family Vineyard III Reserve Cab- there. It’s rich and juicy with ripe cherries and mo- ondary complexities. The mouthfeel is softly tannic 88 Valley). At the age of more than eight years, ly fruity with flavors of black cherries and currants, done well in warm years such as 2008, but in the 92 ernet Franc (Napa Valley). Ripe, succulent red cha, along with a sweet coating of toasty oak. It’s soft and light. It would be a fine wine for drinking with this 100% Cabernet remains powerful with blackber- along with toasted, caramelized marshmallows. The chilly 2011 vintage, it’s tart with acidity. A cranberry cherries and currants are accented with sweet toasty enough to drink now, especially with a great grilled elegant beef dishes. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ry, cherry and oak flavors. It’s just starting to show tannins are refined and there’s good acidity for bal- bite dominates all else, from the red currant flavors oak and wrapped into smooth, but thick, tannins in steak. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $22 bottle complexity, with the tannins softening and the ance. —S.H. to the spicy, vanilla-accented oak from barrels. —S.H. this Cab Franc. There’s a wonderful sweet-pea her- abv: 14.7% Price: $39 fruit gaining earthy tones. A criticism is the alcohol, abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $72 baceousness that adds interest. This lip-smackingly Alpha Omega 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa tasty wine, which is moderate in alcohol, should de- Patland 2010 Terra Del Cuorre Malbec (Napa 89 Valley). Some superripe notes give this wine 88 Valley). This wine is full-bodied, dry and tan-

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 57

BUYINGGUIDE

nic, yet soft, with rich blackberry, currant, anise and spice on the finish, along with a little heat from alco- bring out its robust and spicy nature. The palate is Hullabaloo 2012 Old Vines Zinfandel (Lodi). fruit, along with a puckering sourness on the finish. Porter Family Vineyards 2010 Syrah (Napa Val- oak flavors. It would pair well with a variety of foods, hol. —S.H. complex with flavors of wild, briary summer black- 87 This wine plays tricks on the palate, tasting —V.B. 92 ley). This superb Syrah, is a great followup to but expecially well with steak. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $32 berries, plums, cola, dark chocolate, black pepper and much lighter in body than its alcohol suggests. Lay- abv: 15% Price: $20 the 2009 bottling. There are incredibly ripe flavors abv: 14.8% Price: $70 oak. Great with beef and tomato dishes. —S.H. ered with red fruit along with a lift of herb, it is struc- of blackberry jam, currant, chocolate and toast, along Rutherford Ranch 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). abv: 14.6% Price: $37 tured and composed, with a long, lingering finish. This Lapis Luna 2012 Romanza Moon Shoup Vine- with notes of grilled bacon and black pepper. The tan- 85 With soft tannins framing violet, blueberry is a good one to stock up on if you love big Zin with a 82 yard Zinfandel (Lodi). While juicy and ripe nins are so rich and fine, you can drink this wine now. MERLOT and toast flavors, this is a nice, dry Merlot for drinking Peju 2011 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This Zin is smaller footprint. —V.B. with red fruit, this Zin lays a little flat on the palate. A —S.H. now. —S.H. 90 luxurious in texture, with rich, intricate tan- abv: 15.3% Price: $16 handful of Sangiovese is blended in. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $49 Blue Rock 2010 Best Barrels Merlot (Alexander abv: 13.5% Price: $15 nins and balance. The flavors suggest black and red abv: 14.8% Price: $15 92 Valley). This wine might knock your socks off currants, red plums, Dr. Pepper cola and exotic spices. Black Sheep 2010 Zinfandel (Calaveras Coun- Peju 2011 Syrah (Napa Valley). The Peju style with massively rich, ripe flavors of cherry pie, blue- Westerly 2010 Merlot (Happy Canyon of Santa Great with highly spiced beef, chicken and game dish- 86 ty). Intensely spicy and rich on the nose with Sobon Estate 2011 Vicious Zinfandel (Califor- 91 is of soft, ripe voluptuousness, making this berry jam, mocha and toasty oak, wrapped into ul- 84 Barbara). Too much of a good thing is how to es. —S.H. notes of cinnamon, dark plum and black cherry, this 82 nia). Ripe with cherry-berry juiciness, this is the kind of wine that’s enormously attractive to tra-smooth tannins. For all the richness, it’s bright- characterize this Merlot. It’s exceptionally ripe with abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Zin has an aromatic intensity that fades somewhat on a value-priced Zin that’s straightforward all around, drink now. This ’11 Syrah is immediately appealing ened with just enough acidity for balance and finishes cherries, red currants and mocha. It’s also strong in the palate. It’s structured and textured with dusty tan- with a bitter taste to the finish. —V.B. for its raspberry, cherry and oak flavors, but it’s the dry. There’s no reason not to drink it now. Production oak. The result is a soft, syrupy confection. —S.H. Uvaggio 2011 Barile Primitivo (Lodi). Made in nins and finishes with a touch of prune. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $11 mouthfeel that’s special. With modest alcohol, it feels was only 96 cases, but it’s worth a search. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $30 90 a completely different style from Uvaggio’s abv: 15% Price: $20 smooth, silky and clean. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $60 typical Primitivo, this is meant to be a reserve-tier abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Round Hill 2011 Merlot (California). This is a bottling, with seven months in new and once-used Hendry 2011 Block 28 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). GRENACHE Hunnicutt 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). For full 82 simple Merlot, but it’s dry in style with tart oak. Crisp berry flavor, along with a hint of cranberry, 86 Strong, slighlty overripe blackberry and cur- Joseph Phelps 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). This 92 review see page 6. sour-cherry flavors. —S.H. makes this juicy and balanced. It finishes softly on a rant flavors combine with high alcohol to give this Zin Horse & Plow 2012 Testa Vineyard Old Vine Gre- 90 is a fine Syrah from a producer with a long abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 12.5% Price: $8 slightly nutty note. —V.B. a raisined note and Port-like heat. WIth some glycer- 88 nache (Mendocino). A small-production Gren- history of success with the Rhône variety. It’s inky abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ine sweetness, it’s definitely a barbecue wine. —S.H. ache from 100-plus-year-old vines, this wine is dusty and dark in color with a palate that’s tannic and dry, Longboard 2010 Dakine Vineyard Merlot (Rus- abv: 15.3% Price: $35 and fragrant with ripe cherry and strawberry flavors. with long, deep, spicy flavors of blackberries, grilled 91 sian River Valley). For full review see page 9. ZINFANDEL Hovey 2011 Dragone Vineyard Zinfandel (Cala- Light in weight and easy to drink, the undercurrent meat, black pepper and toasty oak. It will provide good Editors’ Choice. 89 veras County). Brick red in color, this toasty, Pedroncelli 2011 Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel whispers licorice. —V.B. drinking with grilled meats and stews over the next abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Bella 2010 Rocky Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel oaky Zin is grippy and satisfying. Thick on the palate 86 (Dry Creek Valley). A textbook example of a abv: 14% Price: $28 two years. —S.H. 93 (Rockpile). For full review see page 4. Editors’ with sweet, ripe tannins and a dusty texture, it’s nicely super-ripe Dry Creek Valley Zin, this has flavors of abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Wellington 2009 Merlot (Sonoma Valley). Choice. balanced with a long finish that’s inviting with meaty wild blackberries, cherries and prunes, sprinkled with Fenestra 2010 Estate Grenache (Livermore Val- 88 With a sensual mouthfeel, but firm tannins, abv: 14.3% Price: $45 foods. —V.B. black pepper and cinnamon. The tannins are thick, 84 ley). This is a midweight Grenache with fruit Larner 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Santa Ynez this is just what you want a Merlot to be. The cherry, abv: 15.4% Price: $24 and the alcohol is high, giving the wine a glycerine, that’s straightforward in its ripeness. The palate is 90 Valley). The heat and glycerine of high alcohol red currant, violet and mocha flavors are complex and Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 DCV2 Estate Four Port-like finish. —S.H. more dark plum than strawberry with a tar-like char- are integral parts of this 100% Syrah. The wine is big, easy to drink now, especially with a great steak. At the 93 Clones Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Beeson Ranch Zinfan- abv: 14.8% Price: $19 acter to the finish. —V.B. juicy, jammy and frankly delicious, offering endless age of four-plus years, it’s soft and mellow. —S.H. What a superb Zin this is. It’s a robust, luscious wine, 88 del (Dry Creek Valley). Fresh, jammy boysen- abv: 14.7% Price: $28 waves of cassis, chocolate, blueberries, black licorice, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 that’s thrillingly rich with notes of wild blackberries berry, mulberry, raspberry and cherry fruits mark this River Star 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). On black pepper and vanilla-scented oak that last through and raspberries, red licorice, cola and crushed pep- vibrant, young Zinfandel. It’s also bright in acidity, 86 its own, this Zin is rustic. It showcases ripe, Larner 2010 Estate Grown Grenache (Santa a long, spicy finish. Drink now–2016. —S.H. Shafer 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). The flavors percorn, along with a subtle jacket of smoky oak. The which gives it a clean, zingy mouthfeel. You might jammy raspberry, red currant, cinnamon and pepper 84 Ynez Valley). Port-like with raisiny, superripe abv: 15.2% Price: $38 87 in this Merlot are exceptionally ripe with cher- grapes come from a small vineyard in the heart of Dry want to give it 2–3 years in the cellar to allow it to flavors, and the tannins are coarse. But pair it up with fruit, this wine seems to carry more alcohol than in- ries, red currants, red plums, mocha and new oak, and Creek Valley. Drink now–2018. —S.H. soften and mellow. —S.H. barbecued beef and chicken, especially slathered in dicated on the label. It’s not likely to age, so drink up Morgan 2011 Double L Vineyard Syrah (Santa the tannins are rich and refined. High alcohol gives it a abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 sauce, and it’s a match made in heaven. —S.H. with barbecue. —S.H. 90 Lucia Highlands). The inky black color testi- heat that makes it uncomfortable. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $16 abv: 14.8% Price: $40 fies to the intensely extracted, tannic flavors of this abv: 15.1% Price: $50 Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Somers Ranch Zinfan- Edmeades 2011 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). Syrah. It’s gigantic on the palate with flavors of black- 93 del (Dry Creek Valley). The cool vintage was a 87 A dusty, brambly Zinfandel nuanced in blue- Vie Winery 2010 Beatty Ranch Zinfandel (How- Claudia Springs 2010 Rhodes Vineyards Gren- berry and blueberry jam, cassis and new oak that fin- Ferrari-Carano 2011 Merlot (Sonoma County). challenge, which speaks well of the winery’s vineyard berries and plums, this is smooth and soft on the pal- 86 ell Mountain). There are some overripened 81 ache (Redwood Valley). Marked by aromas of ish rich and fruity. Right now, it’s forward and brash, 86 Merlot has not traditionally been this win- team. Blended with 5% Petite Sirah, the wine is un- ate with an earthy quality throughout. On the finish notes in this Zin that lift the blackberries into raisins. raspberry liqueur, this is a sweet, listless Grenache. but give it a few years in the cellar to mellow. Cellar ery’s strong suit, but it’s pleasant with cherry, herb usually complex and sumptuous, even by Dry Creek this medium-bodied wine offers leathery tobacco and There’s also some heat, making the wine taste higher Sourced from a good site in Mendocino. —V.B. Selection. —S.H. and oak flavors wrapped into lush tannins. It’s elegant standards. The flavors are rich with wild summer smoke. —V.B. in alcohol than it is. Drink this strong, heady Zin with abv: 14.1% Price: $22 abv: 14.2% Price: $42 and retains a certain simplicity. —S.H. blueberries and blackberries, and savory with pepper abv: 14.5% Price: $20 barbecue. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 and other exotic spices. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $39 Signorello 2011 Estate Grown and Bottled abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Hendry 2011 Blocks 7 & 22 Zinfandel (Napa Val- SYRAH 90 Syrah (Napa Valley). This Syrah is exception- Candor NV Merlot (California). Soft, oaky and 87 ley). High alcohol gives this wine peppery heat Hendry 2011 Block 24 Primitivo (Napa Valley). ally rich with flavors of cherries, blackberries, mocha 85 ripe, this Merlot has jammy flavors of plums, Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Heritage Vines Zinfan- and a mouthwatering savoriness. The flavors, though, 85 This is a no-holds-barred wine. It’s like Zin- Black Cat 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). For full re- and smoked meat, all touched with a hint of oak. It’s black currants and mocha. The richness suggests 92 del (Sonoma County). For full review see page are all Zinfandel, suggesting ripe wild blackberries, fandel on steroids, with explosive flavors of sweet 92 view see page 5. tannins and acids provide excellent structure. A deli- drinking it with beef and lamb dishes. —S.H. 6. Editors’ Choice. currants and dark chocolate. It will pair well with raspberry, cherry and chocolate-covered raisin. The abv: 14.5% Price: $48 ciously complex wine to drink now and over the next abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 smoky, sweetly-sauced barbecued ribs and chicken. alcohol gives the wine a Port-like heat. —S.H. few years. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $35 Joseph Phelps 2010 Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard abv: NA Price: $51 Justin 2011 Merlot (Paso Robles). This wine is Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry abv: 15.5% Price: $35 92 Syrah (Napa Valley). Phelps’ basic 2010 Napa 85 lush with blackberry jam and oak flavors, but 91 Creek Valley). For full review see page 8. Sobon Estate 2011 Rocky Top Zinfandel (Ama- Syrah is good, but this single-vineyard bottling is David Girard 2010 Okei-San Syrah (El Dorado). high alcohol gives the finish a chili pepper heat. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Horse & Plow 2012 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry 83 dor County). The Rocky Top Zin has a back- considerably richer. It’s immense with flavors of Bing 89 This is a European-style Syrah, cofermented abv: 15.5% Price: $25 87 Creek Valley). This lush, single-vineyard Zin bone of cinnamon and ripe plum amidst puckering cherries, red currants, mocha and sandalwood, along with 2% Viognier. It’s soft and round, medium in body, Bella 2010 Lily Hill Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek floods the mouth with cola, blackberry jam, black pep- tannins and a hint of barnyard. —V.B. with hints of bacon and black pepper. The tannins are and has a savory midpalate with flavors of cranberry, Midnight Cellars 2010 Estate Merlot (Paso Ro- 90 Valley). For full review see page 10. per and toasty oak flavors. It’s briary and brambly in abv: 14.5% Price: $17 such that you want to age it for about six years. Cellar plum and pepper. On the finish is a hint of smoky oak. 85 bles). It’s easy to drink this Merlot now for abv: 14.6% Price: $40 character, and the alcohol is prominent, lending some Selection. —S.H. Profits from sales of the wine go to the American Riv- its soft, fat flavors. Cherries, red currants, pecan pie prickly heat, but that’s Dry Creek Zin for you. Enjoy it Black Sheep 2010 Zinfandel (Amador County). abv: 14.5% Price: $60 er Conservancy Wakamatsu Colony Preservation and and smoky oak are rich on the palate. There’s some Elyse 2009 Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel (Ruth- now with barbecue and rich meat stews. —S.H. 82 This dusty Zinfandel has ripe tannins and ripe Restoration project. —V.B. 90 erford). Decant this Zin for an hour or so to abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 13.9% Price: $75

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 59

BUYINGGUIDE

Mi Sueño 2008 Syrah (Napa Valley). This cherry, currant, sweet tea, cola and exotic spices. It’s McManis 2012 Syrah (California). Fermented in Dutton-Goldfield 2011 McDougall Vineyard clove flavors. Give it three or four years in the cellar to light in color but weighty on the palate with rich, spicy 89 100% Syrah is drinking so lush and opulent dry in style with big, tough tannins and high acidity, 83 100% stainless steel, this priced-to-sell Syrah 92 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This young wine let it mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. notes of raspberry-vanilla wafers and earth. —V.B. now, it’s hard to see it developing any further. The but it’s not likely to develop in the cellar, so drink it has some red fruit and violet character. On the finish needs some time in the cellar. Released at the age of abv: 14.2% Price: $65 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 fruit is from Coombsville vineyards, and the wine now. —S.H. it tastes slightly burnt. —V.B. two years, it’s mouthwatering in acidity with fresh, shows a brisk tannin-acid structure framing ripe fla- abv: 14.2% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $10 juicy cranberry, raspberry jam and persimmon flavors The Gardener 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- Crossbarn by Paul Hobbs 2012 Pinot Noir vors of cherries, currants, mocha and sweet new oak. that finish spicy and long. The alcohol is refreshingly 91 ley). This is the richest and most rewarding of 89 (Sonoma Coast). This is a rich, flamboyant Pi- Drink now–2016. —S.H. Vie Winery 2010 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah low, adding to the delicate mouthfeel. Drink 2017 and the winery’s 2012 range of Pinot Noirs. It’s classically not for drinking now. The raspberry and cherry flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $45 87 (Santa Barbara County). Blackberry and blue- PINOT NOIR beyond. Cellar Selection. —S.H. dry and silky, with brisk acidity and delicious raspber- express California heat and sunshine, but you’ll find berry jam and sweet oak flavors mark this young Syrah. abv: 13.5% Price: $58 ry jam and cherry pie flavors that have the earthiness brisk coastal acidity for balance, as well as a luxurious Ascension Cellars 2010 Mayhem Syrah (Paso It’s dry, tannic and juicy, but a little soft in acidity. Merry Edwards 2011 Coopersmith Pinot Noir of pomegranates and persimmons. It’s fine to drink layer of oak. —S.H. 88 Robles). There’s lots of upfront blackberry, Drink it now and over the next few years. —S.H. 96 (Russian River Valley). What’s so wonderful Merry Edwards 2011 Georgeanne Pinot Noir now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 currant and cherry fruit in this Syrah, along with sa- abv: 14.6% Price: $45 about this Pinot is the way it reconciles all sorts of 92 (Russian River Valley). The grapes are from abv: 14.1% Price: $45 vory, meaty notes of sweet bacon and charred meat. opposites. It’s dry but sweet in fruit, and delicate yet the winery’s youngest vineyard, which may be why Gary Farrell 2011 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir With complex tannins but fairly soft acidity, it’s an Lafond 2011 SRH Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). With potent at the same time. It’s totally accessible now, the wine, good as it is, is a little direct. It’s brisk in Davies 2011 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir 89 (Russian River Valley). This low-production ambitious, delicious wine. —S.H. 86 ripe, forward cherry, raspberry, cola and but enormously complex. Flavors of raspberries and acidity, with appealing, jammy flavors of raspberries, 90 (Anderson Valley). A likeable Pinot from a Pinot shows off the elegance and balance you expect abv: 15.7% Price: $56 toasty oak flavors, this is a Syrah to drink now. The cherries meld with pomegranates and persimmons, as blueberries and ripe persimmons. Yet there are great stalwart Anderson Valley vineyard, this Ferrington is from this famous vineyard. The wine is dry and tart in tannins are soft and velvety, and there’s just enough well as mushrooms, tea and licorice. It’s a joy to drink complexities lurking beneath the surface. This surely light in color but rich with baked strawberry and vi- acidity, with drink-me-now cranberry, pomegranate, Kobler 2010 Reserve Syrah (Russian River acidity for balance. —S.H. now, and should develop in the cellar for at least 10 is a bottling to watch in future vintages. —S.H. olet. With a distinct woodsy component remniscent mushroom and new oak flavors. Decant it for an hour 88 Valley). There’s lots to like in this Syrah. Al- abv: 14.7% Price: $23 years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $57 of forest floor, it’s an ideal wine for wintertime meals or two. —S.H. though it’s severely tannic, it has fine blackberry jam, abv: 14.3% Price: $60 adorned in mushrooms and herbs. Its finish is partic- abv: 14.3% Price: $70 cola and plum flavors, brightened with brisk acidity Larner 2009 Reserve Syrah (Santa Ynez Val- Merry Edwards 2011 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir ularly sauvage. —V.B. and enriched with smoky oak. It doesn’t seem like an 86 ley). Alcohol and superripe fruit give this Joseph Phelps 2011 Quarter Moon Vineyard Es- 92 (Russian River Valley). The flavors are deep abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Les Belles Collines 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian ager, so enjoy now with beef. —S.H. wine a Port-like taste, although it’s totally dry. Bold 95 tate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full and delicious in this Pinot with notes of cherries, cur- 89 River Valley). For full review see page 12. Cel- abv: 12.9% Price: $48 tannins give it a tough astringency, and blackberry review see page 3. Cellar Selection. rants and raspberries, along with a hint of raisins. It’s Foursight 2011 Charles Vineyard Clone 05 Pi- lar Selection. and currant flavors finish with hints of raisin and bit- abv: 13.4% Price: $75 tannic enough to warrant a little time in the cellar. 90 not Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see abv: 14.3% Price: $45 Richard Perry 2011 Syrah (Coombsville). You’ll terness. —S.H. Your window begins to open in 2016, but this isn’t an page 10. 88 find plenty of crushed summer blackberries, abv: 14.9% Price: $65 Sante Arcangeli 2012 Split Rail Vineyard Pinot extended ager. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $49 Three Sticks 2011 The James Pinot Noir (Sta. black pepper and grilled meat flavors in this Syrah. It’s 94 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full review abv: 14.4% Price: $62 89 Rita Hills). This vineyard blend shows the rip- dry in style and elegant in structure. The wine has a Putah Creek 2009 Syrah (Solano County). see page 4. Editors’ Choice. Last Light 2012 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Noir er, oakier side of a Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Rich, grip of tannins that suggests pairing with rich game. 86 While somewhat withdrawn aromatically, this abv: 14.1% Price: $36 Black Kite 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir 90 (San Luis Obispo). For full review see page 11. fruity and direct, it has luscious raspberry, strawberry —S.H. Syrah has integrated flavors of cinnamon, plum and 91 (Santa Lucia Highlands). The new oak on this abv: 13.2% Price: $34 and oak flavors, with a touch of sautéed mushrooms abv: 14.3% Price: $40 raspberry. It’s structured with a tinge of sweetness Fort Ross 2010 Bicentennial Bottling Fort Ross Pinot Noir dominates now with aromas and flavors of and heirloom tomatoes. Drink over the next few years. and finishes on a leathery note. —V.B. 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This buttered toast and caramel. But underneath all that Patz & Hall 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). —S.H. Sobon Estate 2011 Syrah (Amador County). abv: 14.9% Price: $30 commemorates the original Russian settlement of Fort is a wine rich with raspberries, cherries, red licorice 90 It’s hard to imagine any Pinot Noir being rich- abv: 14.6% Price: $60 88 This is a satisfying Syrah with profound notes Ross. The wine is dry, intense and delicious, showing and mocha, and balanced with vital acidity. Give it a er or riper than this one, which is made from a blend of white pepper that ease smoothly from the nose Vie Winery 2010 Las Madres Vineyard Syrah brisk acidity and tannins that frame ripe raspberry, few years to let everything integrate. Cellar Selection. of vineyards from throughout the county’s cooler ar- Witching Stick 2011 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir to the palate. Beyond savory, earthy characteristics, 86 (Los Carneros). This vineyard is capable of cherry and pomegranate flavors. It’s fine to drink now, —S.H. eas. It’s explosive with jammy raspberries, cherries, 89 (Anderson Valley). The Cerise Vineyard is apt- there is also bright raspberry too. Priced fairly, there’s producing fine wine, but the cold 2010 vintage seems but will develop bottle complexity over the next 5–6 abv: 14.9% Price: $55 boysenberries and pomegranates, along with plenty of ly named, producing wines that are fragrant with cher- no reason not to give it a try. —V.B. to have robbed this Syrah of richness. While it has years. —S.H. new French oak for buttery, toasty complexities. It will ry, sage and earth. A soft, lightly structured wine, it’s abv: 13.8% Price: $16 some elegant raspberry and cherry flavors, and bal- abv: 14.5% Price: $46 Fort Ross 2011 Sea Slopes Fort Ross Vineyard hold for a year or three. —S.H. still tight around the edges, but shows the potential to anced acidity and tannins, it also has some green pep- 91 Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). You’ll find deli- abv: 14.5% Price: $46 take on waves of voluptuousness with age. Pair now Westerly 2011 Côte Blonde Syrah (Happy Can- percorn and chlorophyll notes. Drink now. —S.H. Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir ciously ripe raspberry and cherry flavors in this wine, with a pork roast smothered in mushrooms. —V.B. 88 yon of Santa Barbara). This wine makes refer- abv: 14.5% Price: $39 93 (Sonoma Coast). Released a year after their making it instantly appealing. Yet it’s so bright with The Gardener 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 12.8% Price: $48 ence to certain vineyards in France’s cult Côte-Rôtie. spectacular Sea Slopes bottling, this small production acidity, and so deeply complex with earthy, mush- 90 This is a good value for a Sonoma Coast Pinot The flavors are immaculate, suggesting fully ripened Bianchi 2010 Syrah (Paso Robles). There’s lots Pinot shows the elegance of the far Sonoma Coast, and roomy notes, it’s sure to gain some traction in the cel- of this quality. The wine is dry, crisp and clean, with Artesa 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros). blackberries and currants, grilled wild mushrooms, 85 of youthful, jammy fruit and rich tannins in also the ageworthiness of a fine wine. Dry and crisp, lar over the next few years. You can drink it now if you complex flavors of raspberry jam, pomegranates and 88 This wine, which hails from the Napa side black pepper and sweet oak. The tannins are thick this Syrah. But then it turns hot with alcohol, and the it has deep flavors of cherries, pomegranates and per- want, but give it an hour or so in a decanter. —S.H. heirloom tomatoes, which lend a satisfying earthiness of the sprawling Carneros appellation, is somewhat and tough, but beautiful enough to warrant aging. One finish is overripe and raisiny. Your best bet is to drink simmons that are fresh and tart. It will have no trou- abv: 13% Price: $42 to the fruit. New French oak is applied judiciously, and heavy and full-bodied for a Pinot Noir. Yet it’s dry in troubling aspect is acidity. It’s very strong, and may it soon with stews and barbecue. —S.H. ble negotiating the next six years, growing earthier crisp acidity gives it delicious bite. —S.H. style and the tannins are light and silky. It might im- take some time to smoothen out. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 and more complex. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Merry Edwards 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 14.4% Price: $35 prove with a year or two in the bottle. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $52 91 This isn’t one of Merry Edwards’ single-vine- abv: NA Price: $40 Reyes 2009 Syrah (Los Angeles County). This yard Pinots, but who cares? It’s a magnificent effort, The Gardener 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). With Acorn 2010 Axiom Alegria Vineyards Syrah 85 is a Syrah that’s deep with leather, cocoa and Joseph Phelps 2011 Pastorale Vineyard Pinot and a classic expression of Sonoma Coast in a good 90 a silky texture and mouthwatering acidity, Davies 2011 Londer Vineyard Pinot Noir (An- 87 (Russian River Valley). Hugely extracted with licorice flavors, as well as dry tannins. It’s brooding 93 Noir (Sonoma Coast). The vineyard is located vintage. The wine is dry and tannic, yet lilting in the this is a polished Pinot Noir. It’s dry and spicy, with 88 derson Valley). This Londer Vineyard Pinot blackberries, cherries, blueberries and chocolate, this and thick, with a bold taste of black pepper that lasts in the western part of Sonoma County, near the little mouth, with flavors of raspberries, cherries, pome- raspberry jam, Dr. Pepper, red plum and sandalwood exudes a faint aroma of rose water. It’s light in color wine immediately impresses for its sheer power. Oak through the finish. —V.B. town of Freestone. The cool 2011 vintage lends mouth- granates and mushrooms. It’s not an ager, but an ele- flavors that finish with an earthy touch of mushrooms. and texture, but has a palate that’s meaty with notes and high alcohol are key components to this powerful abv: 13.6% Price: $22 watering acidity to the wine, brightening flavors of red gant, sophisticated Pinot to drink now. —S.H. Makes for lovely drinking now, and should age well for of earth, raspberry and cherry, along with slight herbal wine, but pour it with barbecue, and nobody will com- apples, pomegranates and persimmons. Right now, it’s abv: 14.2% Price: $39 eight years. —S.H. undertones. On the finish, ripe tannins impart a sense plain. —S.H. Brander 2011 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). With juvenile and tight, with primary fruits that are unin- abv: 13.7% Price: $35 of strength. Enjoy with a BLT. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $34 84 easy raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors, this tegrated with oak. Give it at least eight years in the Patz & Hall 2011 Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir (Car- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 is a likeable wine to drink now. The soft suppleness cellar, and it could be going strong at the age of fifteen. 91 neros). The tannins and acids are pushy on Witching Stick 2011 Gianoli Vineyard Pinot Noir Morgan 2011 GI7 Syrah (Monterey). This is a suggests tacos, burgers and other everyday fare. —S.H. Cellar Selection. —S.H. this young Pinot, making it tough to appreciate now 90 (Mendocino Ridge). Former longtime Edme- Kastania 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Pinot Noir 87 new bottling for Morgan, and appeals for it’s abv: 13.8% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $75 despite rich, savory raspberry, persimmon, rose and ades winemaker Van Williamson is offering the world 88 (Sonoma Coast). Accented with lime notes, reasonable price. It’s blended creatively with Tempra- his take on cool-climate Mendocino Pinot Noir with this tart, young Pinot is dry and complex. Flavors of nillo and Grenache making it complex with flavors of this and his Cerise Vineyard bottlings. This one is sour-cherry candy, pomegranate and persimmon are

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 61

BUYINGGUIDE

deliciously ripe, yet marked with acidity. Astringent and enjoyable. Give it a few hours in the decanter and Martin Ray 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara worth a search for anyone seeking Pinot at an afford- cherry and oak flavors. It has a jammy, syrupy finish. vignon-Syrah blend is increasingly fashionable and tannins suggest two or three years in the cellar. Cellar drink up. —S.H. 86 County). This isn’t particularly complex or able price. —S.H. —S.H. produces a complex wine in this case. —S.H. Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $23 ageable, but it is a good example of a ripe Pinot for abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 15.9% Price: $22 abv: 14.8% Price: $55 abv: 14.7% Price: $45 drinking now, at a fair price. It’s slightly honeyed with Schug 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros). This toasty oak and raspberry jam flavors, and brightened Husch 2010 Knoll Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- Castle Rock 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian ONX 2011 Crux (Paso Robles). For full review Lafond 2010 Lafond Vineyard Pommard Clone 87 Pinot is all about brisk acidity and ripe, jammy with crisp acidity. —S.H. 85 ley). This wine has an overwhelmingly smoky 82 River Valley). This Pinot is marked with can- 92 see page 7. 88 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Pinots this soft and fruit. The flavors of raspberries and cherries, enriched abv: 14.4% Price: $20 character, like charred forest floor, along with layers died raspberry and cherry flavors, along with oaky abv: 15% Price: $45 forward are unlikely to age, but that doesn’t mean it’s with oak, are direct and luscious, and will drink well of sweet vanilla in the background. Time in the cellar vanilla and toast notes. It finishes rather soft. —S.H. not a lovely wine to drink soon. Dry and fairly tannic, now with a great tuna or beef steak. —S.H. River Road 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). may allow it to meld, but for now it’s meant for lovers abv: 14.5% Price: $18 ONX 2011 Mad Crush (Paso Robles). For full re- it has lush flavors of raspberry and cherry pie, cola and abv: 13.5% Price: $45 86 Soft and supple, this Pinot has pleasant fla- of smoke and oak. —V.B. 92 view see page 7. smoky oak, with a savory earthiness. —S.H. vors of Dr. Pepper cola, raspberries, red cherries and abv: 14% Price: $40 MacRostie 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 14.8% Price: $45 abv: 15.2% Price: $50 Terra Valentine 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma smoky oak. It makes for pleasant drinking now. —S.H. 82 The cold vintage seems to have affected this 87 Coast). Terra Valentine’s Pinot boasts fruit abv: 13.3% Price: $17 Kobler 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). With wine. It lacks its usual richness and instead, is acidic Blue Rock 2011 Baby Blue (Alexander Valley). Three Sticks 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River with long hangtime, and ripe flavors of raspberry and 85 candied raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, and lean, even vegetal. —S.H. 91 This winery has succeeded in producing a love- 88 Valley). The fruity, jammy forwardness of this pomegranate. It’s rather soft and oaky though so drink River Road 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian this Pinot is focused on fruit and oak. It’s a tasty but abv: 14.2% Price: $34 ly Bordeaux-blend wine in this difficult vintage. Based Pinot makes you think it will develop in the cellar, but now. —S.H. 86 River Valley). This Pinot shows basic vari- one-dimensional wine. Drink up. —S.H. on Cabernet Sauvignon, and including all five classic it’s a little too soft for extended aging. So give it a good abv: 14.9% Price: $48 etal character, displaying ripe, opulent raspberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $46 La Rochelle 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Bordeaux grapes, this wine is rich and opulent with decanting, and enjoy the raspberries, cherries and op- cherry pie flavors, with a touch of toasty oak. It’s soft 81 The winery held this back for four years before blackberry jam, blueberry, currant and anise flavors, ulent new oak over the next year or two. —S.H. Testarossa 2011 Cuvée Los Gatos Pinot Noir enough to drink now. —S.H. Mandolin 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For full releasing it. While it’s dry and silky on the palate, enhanced with new oak. Give it a decant and enjoy it abv: 14.6% Price: $60 87 (Monterey County). Testarossa blends this abv: 13.7% Price: $21 85 review see page 13. Best Buy. it has raisiny flavors, and a touch of volatile acidity. over the next year or two. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. wine from grapes sourced from multiple vineyards. abv: 14.5% Price: $10 —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Truchard 2011 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This Pi- It’s pretty tasty with a palate that’s dry, silky and tart Schug 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This abv: 14.9% Price: $42 88 not Noir is rich and elegant, but somewhat with acidity, along with flavors of cherry, cranberry, 86 Sonoma Coast Pinot is dry and simple, with Martin Ray 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- Ferrari-Carano 2010 Trésor (Sonoma County). straightforward with flavors of raspberry and cherry mushroom and lush oak. Drink up. —S.H. raspberry, strawberry and oak flavors, accented with 85 ley). This wine is tasty with flavors of rasp- 91 For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection. wrapped in a pleasant coating of smoky oak. It’s less abv: 14.1% Price: $27 mouthwatering acidity. A bit of oak adds smoky com- berries, cherries, cocoa, roasted almonds, cinnamon RED BLENDS abv: 14.6% Price: $52 ageable than Truchard’s 2010 vintage so decant and plexity. —S.H. and sandalwood, but there’s also a candied note that drink now. —S.H. 7 Peaks 2012 Pinot Noir (California). This is abv: 13.5% Price: $25 makes it a bit simple. The palate boasts a silky texture Cornerstone 2010 The Cornerstone Red Wine ONX 2011 Reckoning (Paso Robles). For full re- abv: 14.1% Price: $35 86 a nice value for Pinot Noir. It has some real that finishes soft and lush. —S.H. 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Cel- 91 view see page 9. richness of fruit and smoothness of texture. Flavors Schug 2011 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A blend of abv: 14.4% Price: $30 lar Selection. abv: 15.3% Price: $45 Alta Maria 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). of ripe raspberries and dates are offset by fine acidity. 86 grapes from seven well-known vineyards, this abv: 14.9% Price: $150 87 This Pinot kicks off with a burst of mouthwa- Best Buy. —S.H. Pinot is made in a widely appealing style. Delicately Sonoma Cuvée 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coun- Wellington 2008 Victory Reserve (Sonoma tering lime acidity, before flavors of cherry, cranberry abv: 13.5% Price: $11 silky but crisp with acidity, it has flavors of raspberry 84 ty). Here’s a simple, softly tannic Pinot Noir ONX 2011 Praetorian (Paso Robles). For full re- 91 County). Kudos to Wellington for holding this and cola settle in. The palate finishes richly with some and cherry jam, cola and mooshu plum sauce, along to drink now for its fruitiness. Raspberry, cola and oak 93 view see page 5. wine back this long. Bottle age has softened the palate, new French oak, making it a great companion with Calera 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). This Pi- with some sweet new oak. —S.H. flavors are wrapped into a silky palate that finishes dry abv: 15.1% Price: $45 allowing flavors of cherries and blackberries to pick steak. —S.H. 86 not is dry in style and tart with acidity, along abv: 13.5% Price: $30 and spicy. —S.H. up secondary notes of dried fruits and leather. It’s a abv: 12.7% Price: $28 with flavors of cranberries, cherries, sweet tobacco abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Alpha Omega 2010 Proprietary Red (Napa Val- beautiful wine that will continue to glide for another and oak. Gritty tannins and inconsistently ripened Sonoma Cuvée 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River 92 ley). One word describes this Cabernet Sau- eight years. —S.H. Artesa 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Bright and fruit lend this wine a common touch. It’s certainly 86 Valley). Light and delicate in the mouth, with 10Span 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara Coun- vignon-based blend—huge. It’s thick and dense in abv: 14% Price: $60 87 perky with acidity, along with a delicate, silky not an ager, but it is an appealing wine to drink now. brisk acidity and a dry finish, this Pinot has simple 83 ty). Here’s a basic Pinot Noir, simple and rus- the mouth, with considerable tannins framing ripe, mouthfeel, this is a pretty Pinot for drinking now with —S.H. but likeable flavors of raspberries, cherries and oak. tic, but not without its charms. It’s dry and silky, with complex flavors of blackberries, currants, green olives, Acorn 2010 Medley Alegria Vineyards (Russian steak or char-broiled salmon. It has delicious flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $26 It’s not very complex, but is easy to drink now. —S.H. cherry pie and oak flavors. —S.H. mocha and toasty oak. In need of aging, it should begin 90 River Valley). There are too many grape va- of cherries and pomegranates, along with earthier abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 to mellow after 2018.Cellar Selection. —S.H. rieties (at least ten) in this blend to list, but they’re notes of ripe heirloom tomatoes and sautéed wild Husch 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This abv: 14.1% Price: $92 dominated by Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. That mushrooms splashed with Balsamic. —S.H. 86 is a tremendously light Pinot with a bouquet Acronym 2012 Pinot Noir (California). This Educated Guess 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). makes it an old-fashioned field blend, and it’s pretty abv: NA Price: $25 of yellow cherry and cranberry. It’s slightly more sa- 85 lightly colored, delicately structured Pinot has 83 This is a rustic Pinot Noir, soft and candied. It Black Cat 2010 Family Cuvée (Napa Valley). For darn good. It’s fundamentally a dry but fruity wine, vory than fruity, expressing the region’s cool vintage. lots of tart acidity framing flavors of cranberries and has raspberry, red plum and oak flavors. Finishes with 92 full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. with good acidity and firm but drink-me-now tannins. Gary Farrell 2011 Stiling Vineyard Pinot Noir The texture of the wine is soft and pleasant with a strawberries. There’s a hint of green, but it’s bone dry, a bit of heat from alcohol. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $48 —S.H. 87 (Russian River Valley). This bottling is cu- subtle hint of fuzzy tannins. —V.B. and the alcohol is a decidedly moderate. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 riously at odds with the winery’s other 2011 sin- abv: 13.3% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $20 Caldwell 2011 Silver (Napa Valley). Caldwell gle-vineyard Pinots. It’s less ripe, with a mushroomy Pedroncelli 2012 Signature Selection Pinot Noir 92 managed to wrest plenty of blackberry and Blue Oak 2010 Estate Blend (Coombsville). earthiness alongside flavors of raspberries and pome- Kastania 2010 Jaden & Keira’s Cuvée Pinot Noir Castle Rock 2011 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is 83 (Russian River Valley). This is a dry wine that’s cherry fruit into this Cabernet Sauvignon-based 90 Blended from Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this granates. You might call that Burgundian, but it does 86 (Sonoma Coast). This dry Pinot has a lovely, 85 a pretty good value for a Pinot Noir from one of a bit acidic and watery with thin sour-cherry candy blend, even though the vintage was a tough one. The wine offers immediately luscious flavors of cherries, cut down on the wine’s opulence, and seems to limit silky mouthfeel and ripe flavors of strawberries and California’s better districts. The wine is dry and bal- flavors and a hit of oak. —S.H. wine, aged in 80% new French oak, is elaborate and blueberries, currants, mocha and new oak. The tan- ageability. —S.H. oak. Tough tannins, marked acids and some green fla- anced, with fine acidity framing raspberry jam flavor. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 opulent, but the tannins are strong, giving the palate nins are considerable, and there’s lots of acidity, but abv: 14.5% Price: $50 vors distract. —S.H. —S.H. a lockdown astringency. It should age well though and the wine is so ripe it’s irresistible now with a great abv: 14.7% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Scott Family 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Arroyo your window of drinking begins in 2019. Cellar Selec- steak. —S.H. Murphy-Goode 2012 Pinot Noir (California). For 83 Seco). This is a heavy, syrupy Pinot, with car- tion. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $50 87 full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice. Last Light 2011 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Noir Geyser Peak 2012 Pinot Noir (California). Cab- amelized, candied raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. abv: NA Price: $120 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 (San Luis Obispo). There are lots of vibrant 85 ernet specialist Geyser Peak ventures into Pi- —S.H. Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 The Mariner Meritage raspberry and cranberry flavors in this dry Pinot, but not territory with good results considering the price. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Ferrari-Carano 2008 PreVail West Face Cab- 90 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page 10. River Road 2012 Stephanie’s Cuvée Pinot Noir sharp acidity and dry tannins suggest time in the cel- This wine is light and delicate, with subtle cherry, Dr. 92 ernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Alexander Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $45 87 (Russian River Valley). This Pinot is a little lar. —S.H. Pepper cola and persimmon flavors, brightened with Bianchi 2010 Garey Vineyard Signature Selec- Smooth with tannins, and ripe and opulent with blue- tough in the mouth, but the tart red cherry, cranberry, abv: 13.2% Price: $34 acidity. With production just under 13,000 cases, it’s 82 tion Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Here’s a berries, blackberries and chocolate, this is a gorgeous Ferrari-Carano 2011 Siena Red Wine (Sonoma strawberry jam and sandalwood flavors are complex soft, simple Pinot, with one-dimensional raspberry, Cab to drink now, or in a few years. The Cabernet Sau- 90 County). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.1% Price: $23

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 63

BUYINGGUIDE

Chateau St. Jean 2010 Cinq Cepages (Sonoma Westerly 2009 Fletcher’s Red (Santa Ynez Val- currants, chocolate and oak. The flavors are so rich cated sour-cherry candy, sage and toast flavors.Best Rhiannon 2012 Red (Napa Valley). Blended 89 County). Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, this 88 ley). Sourced from grapes grown in the Hap- and fruity, but the wine finishes dry. Drink now. —S.H. Buy. —S.H. 83 from Petite Sirah, Syrah and , this is a OTHER RED WINES blend has rich, pleasant cherry, currant and mocha py Canyon area, this is a lush, ripe blend of Merlot, abv: 13% Price: $38 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 hearty red wine that’s tannic and jammy, with a hon- flavors, enhanced with sweet toasty oak. A soft, lus- Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s eyed finish. It’s fine with burgers. —S.H. Flying Horse Winery 2009 Petit Verdot (Napa cious wine with a lot of popular appeal, it’s drinking not hugely complex, but pleasurable and jammy with Artesa 2009 Elements (Sonoma County). Al- Cedar Mountain 2009 Duet Merlot-Cabernet abv: 12.5% Price: $13 90 Valley). Usually employed as a blending grape, beautifully now. —S.H. flavors of black cherries, dried red currants and sweet 86 though a blend of multiple grape varieties, 84 Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). While exuber- Petit Verdot stands on its own two feet here, yielding abv: 14.4% Price: $75 milk chocolate. —S.H. Tempranillo’s cherries and Cabernet Sauvignon’s ant on the nose with aromas of cinnamon, raspberry Kobler NV Valley Cuvée (California). Soft, sim- a dry, sophisticated wine. With a full body and sizable abv: 14% Price: $75 black currants and tannins dominate this wine. It’s a and cassis, this half-Merlot, half-Cabernet Sauvignon 82 ple and overripe, this non-vintage Rhône-style tannins, it’s rich and aromatic with blackberry, cassis Longboard 2011 Point Break (North Coast). widely appealing wine that will show dexterity at the blend thins out on the mid palate and finishes fairly blend has flavors of candied raspberries, prunes and and violet notes. —S.H. 89 This smooth, medium-bodied red combines Wise Villa 2011 Wisdom of Wise (Sierra Foot- dinner table. —S.H. fast. —V.B. oak. There’s some bitterness that accentuates the tan- abv: 13.4% Price: $60 Cabernet Sauvignon with Carignane, Merlot, Malbec 88 hills). A blend of 54% Merlot with smaller abv: NA Price: $18 abv: 13.8% Price: $22 nins on the finish. —S.H. and Syrah to satisfying effect. The Merlot and Malbec percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon (28%) and Caber- abv: 13% Price: $28 Hendry 2009 Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This hail from the Russian River Valley’s renowned Dakine net Franc (18%), this is a nicely structured red that’s Clos La Chance 2011 Reserve Meritage (Central Langtry 2008 Old Soldier Road Tephra Ridge 88 100% Petit Verdot introduces itself with rich, Vineyard. It’s soft in red cherry and blackberry fruit, soft, accessible and juicy, with notes of cranberry and 86 Coast). Pleasurable and accesible, yet remark- 84 Vineyard (Lake County). Made from Petit Ver- Morgan 2011 Cotes du Crow’s Syrah-Grenache extracted fruit, in the way of blackberry and blueberry but a structured wine with depth from leather and cassis liqueur coming to the fore. —V.B. ably complex, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is dot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 82 (Monterey). This was a hard vintage, especial- jam and sweet red currants. Juicy fruit and ample dos- spice notes. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 deliciously drinkable now with everything from burg- this is an herbal wine marked mostly by cassis and ly in cool places like Monterey, and this Syrah-Gren- es of new French oak lend a spicy sweetness, yet the abv: 13.8% Price: $24 ers and tacos to an elaborate beef stew. It’s strong in cranberry. The palate is thick with dense tannins and ache blend is decidedly lean. There’s enough raspberry finish is thoroughly dry. With big, hard tannins, it’s Daviana 2009 Cabernache (Napa Valley). As acidity and dry on the finish. —S.H. a dusty oak note. —V.B. fruit to get by, but green mint and vegetable flavors a wine to cellar for three or four years, but not much Porter Family Vineyards 2010 Cave Dwell- 87 the designation implies, this is a blend of Cab- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 distract. —S.H. longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 89 ers Blend (Coombsville). Made from 50-50 ernet Sauvignon and Grenache. The grapes were grown abv: 13.8% Price: $18 abv: 15.2% Price: $38 Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this blend is firm in in Coombsville. The wine is fruity and approachable Clos La Chance 2011 Reserve (Central Coast). Midnight Cellars 2008 Capriccio Italien Reserve tannins and stuffed with lovely flavors of blackberry, now, with black cherry jam, mocha and exotic baking 86 Ripe red-cherry jam, red currant, oak and 84 (Paso Robles). The blend of Sangiovese, Mer- Oenophile Wines 2011 Oe-lixir Red Mélange La Rochelle 2012 Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Meu- cherry, currant, grilled meat, pepper, exotic spice and spice flavors. —S.H. spice flavors mark this blend. It’s brightened with lot and Cabernet Sauvignon is ripe with raisinated 82 (California). This blend is comprised of Mer- 88 nier (Russian River Valley). Anyone could be cedar. Brisk acidity and bold tannins suggest pairing abv: 14.7% Price: $45 brisk acidity, and the mouthfeel is silky and fine. Drink fruit flavors that finish a bit Port-like. It’s hot with lot (70%) and dabbles of Mourvèdre, Petit Verdot and forgiven for thinking this was a Pinot Noir. Like its with rich, fatty meats and cheeses now and over the up. —S.H. alcohol, but finishes dry. —S.H. Shiraz, sourced mainly from the Clements Hills region more famous cousin, this wine is dry and silky, with next five years. —S.H. Gnarly Head 2011 Authentic Red (Lodi). For full abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 15.4% Price: $39 of Lodi. The wine is marked by a strong streak of green a delicate mouthfeel framing serious raspberry, cola, abv: 14.4% Price: $55 87 review see page 13. Best Buy. bell pepper and herbal scents, and is a tad dull on the mushroom and oak flavors. The winemaker suggests abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Dreaming Tree 2011 Crush (North Coast). This ONX 2011 Brash (Paso Robles). ONX rarely palate. —V.B. serving it below room temperature, which is a good Silver Horse 2011 The Big Easy (Paso Robles). 86 red blend has ripe tannins and a dusty core 84 misses a beat, but this blend of Zinfandel, Pe- abv: 12.6% Price: $27 idea. —S.H. 89 This unusual, but successful, combination of Kastania 2010 Proprietor’s Blend (Sonoma of leather that frame rich red fruit on the palate. A tite Sirah and Tempranillo is not among their best. For abv: 13.9% Price: $38 Tempranillo, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon is a 87 Coast). The cool Sonoma Coast appellation partnership between singer Dave Matthews and wine- some reason, the fruit is lean with hints of mushrooms Orfila 2011 Full Fathom Five (San Pasqual). A great example of modern Paso blending. Each grape is not known for Bordeaux blends, especially in cool maker Steve Reeder of Simi Winery in Healdsburg, it’s and vegetation. The alcohol is the highest of their 2011 82 tannic blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Imagery 2010 (Paso Robles). Lagrein variety fills in the deficiencies of the others, result- vintages like 2010. This blend of Cabernet Franc and fairly priced and accessible, with moderate alcohol releases, which gives the wine an unbalanced heat. Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is closed 87 is an Italian variety, of which little is planted ing in a harmonious whole. It has the tannic weight of Cabernet Sauvignon is ripe with raspberries and oak, and a soft, medium-weight body. It contains mostly —S.H. in the nose and dense in texture. —V.B. in California. It has the weight and tannins of Mer- Cabernet, with complex cherry, mocha, cola and spice but there’s a tart bit of acidity. Its taut and elegant in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.6% Price: $35 lot, along with firm tannins and soft acidity. This bot- flavors that drink well now. There’s some burn in the style, but lacks generosity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 tling is rich in cherries, figs and tobacco, and is gentle finish that detracts. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $38 Porter Family Vineyards 2010 Sandpiper Red River Star 2010 Eclipse (Paso Robles). The enough to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $38 Hendry 2009 Red (Napa Valley). This blend 84 (Coombsville). Overripe notes of raisins and 82 raspberry, cherry and dried cranberry flavors abv: 13.9% Price: $45 Sciandri Family 2010 Coombsville Cuvée (Napa 86 is comprised of all five classic Bordeaux va- prunes detract from this wine’s enjoyment. Its tannins of this soft, silky wine are marred by excessive sharp- Novy 2011 Four Mile Creek (North Coast). 87 Valley). This blend is made from near-equal rieties, but unusually, led by Petit Verdot. The wine are augmented by a hint of bitterness and it’s a bit hot ness and acidity on the finish. —S.H. Larner 2010 Estate Grown Mourvèdre (Santa 88 Closed aromatically at first, this medium-bod- proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The is inky dark and tannic with extracted blackberry fla- on the finish, but a juicy cheeseburger will resolve any abv: 13.3% Price: $19 86 Ynez Valley). Intensely ripe and rich, this wine ied wine develops dark plum and cocoa notes amidst wine is rich, tannic and direct with flavors of jammy vors. High alcohol gives it a burn from the midpalate of these problems. —S.H. boasts flavors of raisins and currants with oak adding a juicy mid palate. Dusty tannins end things nicely. black cherries and blueberries, along with plenty of through the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $49 Ascension Cellars 2010 Dalliance G-S-M (Paso hints of sweet toast. It’s overripe and brawny in style, There’s not a lot of red wine out there of this quality oak. Decant it for a few hours and drink up now. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $38 81 Robles). A dull Rhône-style blend, this is soft with high alcohol lending a hot, glycerine mouthfeel. at this price. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $32 Vinum Cellars 2011 Red Dirt (Paso Robles). and hot with alcohol. You’ll find some green vegetable —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $14 Justin 2010 Isosceles (Paso Robles). There’s 84 Fans of fresh, juicy fruit will love this wine’s and mushroom notes that mar the ripe flavors of red abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Silver Horse 2010 Pegasus (Paso Robles). Soft, 86 plenty of ripe blackberry and cherry flavor, as raspberry and cherry jam, red licorice and strawber- cherry jam. —S.H. Patland 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Proprietary 87 lush and ripe, this Cabernet Sauvignon-Mer- well as exotic spice and toasty oak notes on this ex- ry Twizzler flavors. The blend is based on Syrah, and abv: 15.3% Price: $44 Santa Barbara Winery 2010 Stolpman Vineyard 88 Red Wine (Napa Valley). Fire up the barbe- lot blend has extracted black currant, blackberry jam, pensive Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend. Overripe, the alcohol is high enough to give it some heat on the 84 Sangiovese (Santa Ynez Valley). This San- cue and grill a steak to pair with this rich, ripe, lusty mocha and oak flavors, with a hint of maple syrup. It’s raisinated notes lend a touch of bitterness and high finish. —S.H. Fenestra 2009 Conjugation (Livermore Valley). giovese is ruby-brick in color with a texture that’s blend. Comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, ready to drink now. —S.H. alcohol makes it finish a tad hot. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $20 81 Fenestra’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer- light and silky. Not the best representation of this oth- it’s enormously extracted with flavors of blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $67 abv: 15% Price: $62 lot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot is aro- erwise fine vineyard, here, high alcohol gives cherry jam, chocolate and bacon. The tannins are strong, but Bogle 2011 Essential Red (California). The matically interesting with hints of Dr. Pepper and flavors a jalapeño pepper heat.. —S.H. soft acidity helps make them drinkable now. —S.H. Silver Horse 2011 Sage (Paso Robles). Enor- Larner 2010 Elemental G-S-M (Santa Ynez 83 blend is Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon spice. The palate devolves with strong herbal aromas abv: 15.2% Price: $26 abv: 14.8% Price: $60 87 mously rich and ripe with flavors of blackberry 85 Valley). This Rhône-style blend is simple and and Petite Sirah. The wine is soft and luscious, with and light fruit flavors before finishing slightly high in and cherry jam, gingerbread and caramel, this Mal- fruity. The flavors of cherry jam, caramel and oak are cherry candy and vanilla flavors. —S.H. alcohol. —V.B. Bianchi 2010 Signature Selection Petite Sir- Terlato 2010 Galaxy (California). Right out of bec-based blend has soft, complex tannins. Its best balanced with acidity and smooth tannins. Sausages abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 80 ah (Paso Robles). This wine has some good 88 the gate, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, opened soon, to drink with beef dishes. —S.H. are a natural companion. —S.H. blackberry and oak flavors. But the strong, green hit of Syrah and Merlot, in equal proportions, is enormously abv: 13.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.9% Price: $36 Peju NV Tess (Napa Valley). Pale in color, with Vie Winery NV Mélange Maison I Old Vines (Cali- vegetable is distracting. —S.H. fruity and oaky. The blackberry jam, mocha and sweet 83 a soft, silky body and candied strawberry and 81 fornia). This wine’s red fruit flavors have sharp, abv: 14.7% Price: $22 toast flavors may lack subtlety now, but deserve credit Silver Horse 2011 Tomori Syrah-Cabernet Sauvi- Our Daily Red 2012 Red (California). Like the vanilla flavors, this blend straddles the line between vinegary tones, giving it a hint of Balsamic. It’s all for sheer power. Your best bet is to stick it in the cellar 87 gnon (Paso Robles). Give this blend extra cred- 85 brand name implies, this is a wine for every- a red wine and a rosé. You can treat it either way, at right for drinking now. —S.H. for eight years and see how it’s doing. Cellar Selec- it for sheer power. It rocks the palate with intensely day drinking. It’s dry and light in body, with uncompli- room temperature or chilled. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $29 tion. —S.H. ripe, concentrated flavors of blackberries, cherries, abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.4% Price: $85

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 65

BUYINGGUIDE

it’s direct and appealing with peach, melon and but- edge along with phenolic notes and peach. It drinks wine that will be appealing all year round. Best Buy. Dunham 2012 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling tery spices that lead to a warm finish. —S.S. just a touch off dry, with sweet, stone fruit flavors. PINOT GRIS —P.G. 91 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 13.7% Price: $29 —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 11% Price: $20 Ascension Cellars 2012 Frankel Vineyard Rap- abv: 13.9% Price: $14 14 Hands 2012 Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). 87 ture Primitivo (Paso Robles). Exceptionally ripe Boomtown 2012 Chardonnay (Washington). 87 Lovely and fresh, this piles on flavors of Bosc K Vintners 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Kiona 2011 Reserve Dry Riesling (Red Mountain). with fruit, this wine is super sweet with cherry jam, 88 This is spicy and sharp, with excellent focus pear, with the texture to match. It’s a wonderful ex- 90 Valley). A first for K Vintners, this fruit was 91 This estate-grown Riesling is sourced from red currant, vanilla fudge, caramel and smoky, buttery and snap. Green apple flavors dominate, aided by sug- VIOGNIER pression of the grape coming from the eastern Wash- sourced from the Sunset and Evergreen vineyards, and some of the oldest vines on Red Mountain—planted toast flavors. A brisk hit of acidity adds balance. The gestions of pineapple and grapefruit. It’s crisp and re- ington region, accented with lovely, delicate baking supervised by winemaker, Brennon Leighton. Cool cli- in 1975–1976. Lush and textural, it’s both rich and el- alcohol is high, but the heat is in keeping with the freshing, with a good, clean finish. —P.G. Charles Smith 2011 Lawrence Vineyard Viognier spices. Best Buy. —P.G. mate characteristics are shown in the form of unripe egant, with flavors of pink marshmallow, honeycomb, overall structure. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $16 94 (Columbia Valley). The most floral and lemony abv: 13% Price: $10 berry and juicy acid flavors. There’s a slight natural pear and meringue. It fills the mouth with pleasing abv: 20% Price: $36/375 ml of Charles Smith’s trio of , this received ex- herbaceousness, as well. —P.G. confectionary flavors, fine layering and depth. Resid- Efestē 2011 Lola Evergreen Vineyard Chardon- tra time in barrel, yielding a more Burgundian mouth- Boomtown 2012 Pinot Gris (Washington). Quite abv: 13% Price: $20 ual sugar is 13 g/L—still dry enough for most foods. 88 nay (Columbia Valley). This 2011 Lola is light feel—rich and creamy. Just 10% saw new oak, which 87 tart, this mouth-puckering Pinot Gris brings Best Buy. —P.G. WASHINGTON and creamy, with hints of buttered apple, from aging seems to be exactly right, adding a hint of toast with- bright, fresh flavors of lemon, lime and grapefruit to Three Rivers 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum- abv: 13% Price: $15 in 18% new French oak. It finishes soft, supple and out clobbering the floral subtleties.Editors’ Choice. the front. It’s a high acid effort, shellfish-friendly, with 88 bia Valley). The fruit sources—Klipsun and WHITE WINES lightly spiced. —P.G. —P.G. a good bite to the finish. —P.G. Gamache—are excellently displayed in this white that Woodward Canyon 2012 Dry White Riesling Ries- abv: 13.4% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 includes 8% Sémillon. A bracing, cool blast of citrus, 91 ling (Columbia Valley). Fragrant with scents of CHARDONNAY white peach, melon and cucumber is buoyed with citrus rind, this brings a dense core of lemon, lime and Apex 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Bar- Tamarack Cellars 2012 Viognier (Columbia Willow Crest 2012 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Ya- crisp minerality. The wine spent seven months in 15% grapefruit, just bordering hints of peach. It’s quite dry, Cloudlift Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia 87 rel fermented in French and eastern European 93 Valley). Sourced entirely from the Sagemoor 87 kima Valley). Lifted by notes of pear, petroleum new French oak. —P.G. very fruity and substantial. It was sourced entirely 90 Valley). Sourced from the Bacchus vineyard, oak, this is lightly aromatic with noteēs of butter, va- vineyard, this richly endowed Viognier smothers the jelly and apricot, it’s medium bodied and drinks off abv: 13.4% Price: $16 from the DuBrul vineyard. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. this shows terrific improvement from the previous nilla and cardamom with a creamy feel, showing some palate in a lush mix of fat, candied citrus and tropi- dry (6 g/L residual sugar) with a tart, lingering finish. abv: 13.1% Price: $25 vintage. Firm, focused, spicy fruit is framed by a heat on the finish. —S.S. cal fruits. Honeysuckle and orange pekoe tea flavors —S.S. Snoqualmie 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia mouth-cleansing minerality. A lick of toasted hazel- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 trickle into the lingering, lip-smacking finish.Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $15 87 Valley). Apple and pear fruit is set in a frame of Hogue 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Off- nuts and a hint of butterscotch add to the finish.Edi - Choice. —P.G. citrus­, grapefruit flesh and rind. Skin flavors are well 90 dry, with 24 g/L residual sugar, this fragrant tors’ Choice. —P.G. Bergevin Lane 2012 She-Devil Chardonnay (Co- abv: 13.4% Price: $24 B. Lovely 2012 Pinot Gris (Washington). An modulated, with a hint of minerality, as well. This is and refreshing wine blends in small amounts of Mus- abv: 13.6% Price: $18 87 lumbia Valley). No information was given as 83 aromatic offering with notes of tropical fruit, wine is drinking nicely—clean and persistent. Best cat and Gewürztraminer. Tangerine and peach flavors far as whether this was entirely stainless fermented, Charles Smith 2012 Stoneridge Vineyard Viog- flowers, petroleum jelly and hazelnut. At 30 g/L re- Buy. —P.G. are concentrated in the core, while the finish brings in Dunham 2012 Shirley Mays Chardonnay (Co- but that is the clear impression. Light fruit flavors of 92 nier (Columbia Valley). This brings bracing sidual sugar, it’s sweet but could use a bit more acidic abv: 13.5% Price: $8 lovely flavors of English breakfast tea.Best Buy. —P.G. 90 lumbia Valley). Excellent concentration and apple, pear, and green banana combine in a crisp wine minerality into the forefront, in a terroir-driven wine lift. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 depth elevate this young, tight Chardonnay. Flavors that is modest in scale, balanced and fresh. —P.G. with excellent penetration and depth. A fresh mix of abv: 12.7% Price: $12 Columbia Crest 2012 Two Vines Sauvignon of lemon custard and caramel-coated apples abound, abv: 13.9% Price: $20 citrus and stone, this elevates Viognier into the top 86 Blanc (Washington). There’s a suggestion of Nodland Cellars 2012 Bebop Dry Riesling (Co- making it downright irresistible. 30% was aged in echelons of Washington white wines. Editors’ Choice. sweetness underlying this pleasant, crisp and fruity 90 lumbia Valley). Here’s a good, clean effort, not French oak, the rest in stainless. Editors’ Choice. Columbia Crest 2012 Grand Estates Unoaked —P.G. SAUVIGNON BLANC wine. Though labeled 100% Sauvignon Blanc, it does showing entirely bone dry but enough for the moni- —P.G. 87 Chardonnay (Washington). This is a new offer- abv: 14.1% Price: $30 little to showcase varietal character. However, as a ker. Mixed citrus, notably lime, green apple and spicy abv: 14% Price: $24 ing for Columbia Crest’s Grand Estates lineup. Fresh Efestē 2012 Feral Evergreen Vineyard Sauvi- fruit-forward, quaffable white, it works quite nicely. notes dominate, in a wine with excellent balance and a fruit flavors emphasize lemon, lime and pineapple, K Vintners 2012 Viognier (Columbia Valley). 92 gnon Blanc (Columbia Valley). For full review Best Buy. —P.G. welcome touch of minerality. —P.G. Tamarack Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia backed with moderate acidity. A nice spicy lift informs 91 Now one of three Viogniers produced by Charles see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 12.6% Price: $16 90 Valley). A well-integrated mix of grapes from the finish. Light and lively.Best Buy. —P.G. Smith, this is from Art den Hoed’s Yakima Valley abv: 13.5% Price: $20 a broad range of vineyards across the entire Columbia abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Vineyard, and was barrel fermented in neutral French Washington Hills 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Wash- Grace Lane 2012 Riesling (Yakima Valley). valley, this outstanding value proves that good Char- oak. Clean and pure fruit aromas lead into fresh, nat- Woodward Canyon 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc 84 ington). A direct and appealing wine with 89 Grace Lane, from Terlato Wines, makes a grand donnay does not have to be strengthened by age in Vin du Lac 2012 Barrel Select Chardonnay (Co- ural, tree fruit flavors of peach and apricot. There’s a 91 (Walla Walla Valley). A rare Walla Walla Sauvi- notes of freshly cut grass and citrus. It’s medium bod- entry into Washington Riesling with this stylish, me- new oak barrels. Stone fruits, hints of tropical papa- 87 lumbia Valley). Pleasing toasty notes greet your nice kick of citrus in the vibrant acidity. —P.G. gnon Blanc, this is rich and round in this new vintage, ied and off-dry (15 g/L residual sugar) with sweet fruit dium dry effort from the excellent 2012 vintage. Lem- ya and banana, contribute to a complex, fruit-driven, first sniff, followed by apple pie fruit flavors with hints abv: 14.5% Price: $25 fully-ripened to lush flavors of apple, pear and papa- flavors that come off as a bit diluted. —S.S. on tea, hibiscus, blood orange and apricot notes swirl well-balanced wine with medium-term aging poten- of plum and banana. It’s a light, creamy, easy-drinking ya. Great concentration and length are in play, though abv: 10.83% Price: $12 up from the glass, round, fruity and delicious. Drink tial. Best Buy. —P.G. confection. —P.G. Bergevin Lane 2012 Love-Struck Viognier (Co- the ripe fruit shows none of the lovely herbaceousness now through the next few years. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $15 abv: 13.3% Price: $25 90 lumbia Valley). The 8% splash of Roussanne generally associated with this grape. —P.G. abv: 12.1% Price: $12 in this blend, contributes to the lovely complexity abv: 14.3% Price: $26 RIESLING Three Rivers 2012 Steel Chardonnay (Columbia Charles & Charles 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia of the opening aromas. Sweet citrus, honey and tea Beast 2012 Riesling (Horse Heaven Hills). A 90 Valley). For full review see page 11. Editors’ 86 Valley). This young Chardonnay still shows flavors combine, while keeping the palate light and Apex 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Efestē 2012 Evergreen Riesling (Columbia 88 distinctive wine that comes from a biody- Choice. plenty of yeasty scents and flavors, turning it almost focused. Complex hints of lemon meringue, vanilla 90 Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this 93 Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ namically farmed area of this vineyard, with 40% fer- abv: 13.9% Price: $17 beer-like. Light lemon and tea flavors, with a dash of cream and toasted coconut keep it lively and interest- 100% varietal wine is bright and focused with notes Choice. mented in neutral oak and the rest in stainless steel. baking spices, complete the picture. —P.G. ing through to the finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. of herbs, citrus and kiwi. It’s ripe and full of juicy fruit abv: 12.8% Price: $20 It’s brightly aromatic with ripe peach, honeysuckle Woodward Canyon 2012 Chardonnay (Wash- abv: 13.3% Price: $12 abv: 13.9% Price: $20 flavors with a spine of citric acidity running through- and a spritz of lime, smelling quite luscious but drink- 90 ington). Round and succulent, this nicely-de- out. Give this some time to open up. Editors’ Choice. Charles Smith 2012 Kungfu Girl Riesling (Colum- ing dry with a broad feel to the lively fruit flavors. fined Chardonnay is built around a core of apple but- Snoqualmie 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- Stottle 2012 Elerding Vineyard Viognier —S.S. 91 bia Valley). Kungfu Girl has become an iconic —S.S. ter with a slight suggestion of pineapple. A streak of 86 ley). The winery identifies this as organical- 90 (Yakima Valley). This is bone dry, with a abv: 13.1% Price: $18 Riesling on the strength of its instantly recognizable abv: 12.2% Price: $25 butterscotch fills in the finish. —P.G. ly grown, and it commands a higher price than the tongue-tickling minerality underscoring floral high- label, and surpassing quality. At 11% alcohol and 18 abv: 14.1% Price: $44 nonorganic Snoqualmie offerings. It’s fresh, clean and lights. The honeyed fruit flavors focus around peaches, Bergevin Lane 2012 Linen Sauvignon Blanc g/L residual sugar, it rests comfortably on the fence Kiona 2012 Riesling (Washington). Several simple, with crisp, apple fruit and well balanced acid- with good length and a clean, fresh finish with gin- 90 (Columbia Valley). This lovely blend of Sau- between dry and off-dry, and is a bulls-eye rendition 88 Yakima Valley and Red Mountain sites con- Dusted Valley 2012 Chardonnay (Ancient ity. —P.G. like, botanical complexity. —P.G. vignon Blanc, and 14% Roussanne, is as crisp and of Washington Riesling. A dense mix of citrus, apple tribute to this outstanding bottle, including a small 89 Lakes). Aged in 20% new French oak with abv: 13.9% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 fresh as its name implies. Bright fruit flavors of lemon, and tree fruits, enhanced with skin textures and fin- (7%) splash of Gewürztraminer from Ranch at the half of the wine undergoing malolactic fermentation, lime, orange and pineapple speak to the success of this ishing with highlights of honey and tea, this is flat out End of the Road. Marvelous complexity at this price, Waterbrook 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- unusual blend. It’s a bracing, palate-cleansing white delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. with highlights of mint, spun sugar and orange peel 85 ley). Lightly aromatic with a slight metallic abv: 11% Price: $12 wrapped into the mix. The residual sugar is 20 g/L but

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 67

BUYINGGUIDE

the wine comes off drier than that, with a creamy, rice Columbia Crest 2012 Two Vines Gewürztramin- driver’s seat, and Viognier holding up one third of the Washington Hills 2012 Late Harvest Riesling thin, with herbal accents outshining the fruit. But it Southard 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Pre- pudding finish.Best Buy. —P.G. 88 er (Washington). A very fine effort at a most blend. Bright, tropical fruits are set in a frame of lus- 85 (Washington). With 70 g/L residual sugar, this evolves nicely in the glass, filling in the plummy, pep- 90 viously this Syrah was sourced completely abv: 12.3% Price: $11 affordable price, this off-dry Gewürztraminer nicely ciously toasty oak, with highlights of roasted almonds 100% varietal wine drinks quite sweet, with notes of pery fruit and adding barrel notes of clove, licorice and from Lawrence vineyard grapes, but here they are captures the powdery floral scents and peachy, lychee and a bit of butter. Firm and substantial, with excel- peach, sage and dried Iced Tea. —S.S. dusty earth. —P.G. mixed with fruit from Stonetree. It’s a dark, smoky NxNW 2012 The Benches Riesling (Horse Heav- fruit notes of the grape. The bright acidity keeps it lent depth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 9.68% Price: $12 abv: 14.1% Price: $75 wine, with highlights of licorice around deep cassis 87 en Hills). An aromatic offering with notes of fresh and bracing. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 fruit flavors. The chewy tannins finish with a pleasant peach, honeysuckle and a whiff of lime leaf. It drinks abv: 11.5% Price: $8 K Vintners 2010 Cougar Hills Syrah (Walla Walla streak of lovely cherry fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. almost dry, with tart fruit flavors that seem a bit di- 14 Hands 2012 Hot To Trot White (Washing- ROSÉ 92 Valley). Dark and earthy, with a streak of soy abv: 14.5% Price: $16 luted. —S.S. 14 Hands 2012 Moscato (Columbia Valley). Off- 88 ton). No specific blend is listed on this de- and a hint of funk, this complex effort opens power- abv: 13% Price: $18 87 dry and slightly sugary, this fruity, candied licious wine—in the past it’s been Chardonnay, Pi- William Grassie 2012 Dahlia Rosé (Columbia fully, then turns more subtle, with plum and choco- Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Syrah (Columbia sipper mixes orange blossom, orange candy and baby not Gris and Sémillon. Luscious, ripe fruit flavors of 88 Valley). Of all the current releases from this late highlights. It’s one of those wines that never stops 89 Valley). A solid, well-made example of Colum- Three Rivers 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). aspirin flavors into a concentrated midpalate. Moscato grapefruit, melon and loads of fresh pear combine to new winery, it is this rosé that is highest in alcohol. evolving in the glass. —P.G. bia Valley Syrah, this shows mixed boysenberry and 87 This off-dry Riesling hits 32 g/L residual sug- is on fire these days, and this wine will surely please show a wonderfully fresh and tasty white wine. The Thick and heavy, it’s quite rich and expressive, with abv: 14.5% Price: $50 raspberry fruit flavors that are accented lightly with ar, though it is not especially sweet. Some skin flavors those who love the style. Best Buy. —P.G. acids lift up the brightness, and this round and fruity plum and cherry flavors. The finish is viscous and peppery spice. It’s a modest wine in terms of volume add a bit of bitterness to the fruit, and the orange pe- abv: 10.5% Price: $10 style is a can’t miss proposition. Best Buy. —P.G. scented with rosewater. —P.G. K Vintners 2010 Phil Lane Syrah (Walla Walla and density, but proportionate and true to variety. koe tea and brown sugar blandishments are not en- abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 14.8% Price: $18 92 Valley). Just one barrel was made from this —P.G. tirely integrated. A bit more bottle age should help. Bergevin Lane 2012 Dreamweaver Roussanne vineyard, which suffered losses from frost and wildlife abv: 14.5% Price: $35 —P.G. 87 (Columbia Valley). The mirror image of the Cadaretta 2012 sbs Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon in 2010. A shame, because the wine is terrific, delicate abv: 12% Price: $15 winery’s Love-Struck Viognier, this broad and fruity 88 (Columbia Valley). Cadaretta’s production of WASHINGTON for Syrah, with boysenberry, raspberry, piercing acid- Dusted Valley 2011 Tall Tales Syrah (Walla Wal- blend is forward and open, with flavors of yellow and this popular blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon ity and refined tannins. Built to age. Cellar Selection. 88 la Valley). From the Stoney Vine vineyard, Willow Crest 2012 Estate Grown Willow Crest orange fruits. It is slightly toasty, moving into some seems to have tripled in this vintage, and the wine has RED WINES —P.G. this shows the effects of a cool vintage on young vines. 86 Estate Vineyard Riesling (Yakima Valley). An citrus skin flavors that frame the finish. —P.G. lost some of its depth. It’s crisp and edgy, with spicy abv: 13% Price: $70 There’s a lot of citrus and pineapple throughout, and uber aromatic wine with notes of flowers, orange peel, abv: 14.3% Price: $24 highlights around light flavors of celery, pepper, jica- SYRAH the berry fruit flavors, characteristic of Syrah, are jasmine and canned peaches. At 27.2 g/L residual sug- ma, cucumber and lemon. —P.G. Efestē 2010 Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard present in the background. There are pleasing accents ar, it drinks medium sweet but overall, the acid keeps Stottle 2012 Marcela Vineyard Roussanne (Ya- abv: 14% Price: $23 Gramercy Cellars 2010 Lagniappe Syrah (Co- 91 Syrah (Yakima Valley). For full review see page of carpaccio and peat moss, and just a hint of Bour- it in check. —S.S. 87 kima Valley). This cool climate Roussanne 98 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 3. Cel- 8. Editors’ Choice. bon from the third-use, Wisconsin oak barrels. This abv: 11.3% Price: $15 shows more of a steely side of the grape, rather than lar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $39 definitely needs extensive breathing time, or further ripe, round and fleshy. Citrus skin and peach pit fla- SWEET WINES abv: 14.2% Price: $55 bottle age. —P.G. Columbia Crest 2012 Two Vines Riesling (Wash- vors combine with a slight suggestion of chalk and Efestē 2010 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red Mountain). For abv: 14.7% Price: $53 85 ington). This off-dry wine falls on the sweet mineral. —P.G. Kiona 2012 Chenin Blanc (Red Moun- Charles Smith 2010 Royal City Syrah (Washing- 91 full review see page 8. side, with pleasant honey/lemon tea flavors up front. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 94 tain). Kiona’s ice wines are legendary, and 97 ton). This wine headlines the Charles Smith abv: 14.6% Price: $39 Hawkins Cellars 2011 Reserve Syrah (Columbia The fruit is followed with some earthier notes, and a this latest is as excellent as any they’ve done. Butter- lineup, and has established a breathtakingly complex 88 Valley). Sourced from the Kiona vineyard on quickly fading finish.Best Buy. —P.G. WT Vintners 2011 Underwood Mountain Vine- scotch scents invite further exploration. As the wine and rich style, that varies in saturation with each Bergevin Lane 2011 She-Devil Syrah (Columbia Red Mountain, and vinified in Oregon, this features a abv: 11.5% Price: $8 87 yard Grüner Veltliner (Columbia Gorge). Lightly coats the mouth, it comes into lush focus with brown vintage but remains consistent in its flavors. Clove, 90 Valley). This excellent Syrah captures much brambly, berry-strewn mid-palate with dried leaves fined and unfiltered, it’s slightly cloudy in appearance sugar, molasses, vanilla, cooked banana and more but- baking spices and maple syrup flavors trump the ripe of the depth and complexity of higher priced bottles. and spices adding further interest. It rolls pleasantly Snoqualmie 2012 Made With Organic Grapes with notes of mineral, citrus, herbs and spice. Aged terscotch. It’s low in alcohol, but maintains sufficient fruits that remain more in the background. Delicious Boysenberry fruit provides a concentrated core of fla- across the palate into a tart, fruity finish. —P.G. 85 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Formerly the “Na- partly in neutral oak, with the rest in stainless steel, acidity to stay buoyant and lively. Residual sugar is a now, or cellar for a few more years. —P.G. vor and rings of licorice, earth, coffee, smoke and va- abv: 14% Price: $30 ked” Riesling, this is now part of Snoqualmie’s “Eco” the flavors are light, with a creamy midpalate and tart, hefty 170 g/L. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $140 nilla circle through the lingering finish. Tannins are a line, still made from organically-grown grapes. There’s electric acids, that verge on sour. Pair this with shell- abv: 8.2% Price: $25/375 ml bit on the crunchy side. —P.G. Knight Hill 2010 StoneTree Vineyard Syrah a hint of volatility in the aromas, with a mix of spicy fish to see it at its best. —S.S. Gramercy Cellars 2011 Syrah (Walla Walla Val- abv: 14.4% Price: $24 88 (Wahluke Slope). With 20% Petite Sirah apricot and pear. The residual sugar is listed at 25.5 abv: 12% Price: $18 Kiona 2012 Late Harvest Riesling (Columbia 94 ley). In 2011 the alcohol drops a bit and the blended in and aged in a mixture of American, French g/L, though the wine isn’t particularly sweet. A taste 92 Valley). As with Kiona’s off-dry Washington fruit comes forward, stepping slightly away from the K Vintners 2010 M.C.K. Syrah (Washington). and European oak, barrel notes of vanilla and sweet of cracker comes into the finish. —P.G. Willow Crest 2012 Estate Grown Muscat Canelli Riesling, this includes a bit of Gewürztraminer, a clev- strongly herbal flavors of the 2010. It’s reflective of the 90 M.C.K. stands for Motor City Kitty, and along spices play nicely against plump, jammy red fruit aro- abv: 12.3% Price: $12 85 (Yakima Valley). A straightforward, enjoyable er addition that brings some spiciness into play. In- vintage, and perhaps more immediately approachable, with the winery’s Milbrandt Syrah, this is the en- mas and flavors, with the oak leading the way on the crowd pleaser with perfumed notes of orange, honey- tensely aromatic, the wine is almost Muscat-like, with without sacrificing any of the complexity or structure try-level offering in a vast portfolio of single vineyard finish. —S.S. suckle and lemon-scented furniture polish. It drinks dense orange peel flavors, along with citrus, tea and that typifies Gramercy wines. Strongly aromatic fla- bottlings. Tasty, toasty, supple and fruity, this carries abv: 14.4% Price: $25 OTHER WHITE WINES sweet at 59 g/L residual sugar, with a slightly frizzante madeleine cookie. This is a sensational value from a vors of blackberry, black cherry, cola and licorice are slight hints of citrus, earth and stem and wraps its feel. —S.S. leading Riesling producer. Best Buy. —P.G. all in play, backed with refreshing minerality. The appealing, forward flavors in a light coating of milk Tildio 2009 Syrah (Lake Chelan). A fruit for- Hogue 2012 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Val- abv: NA Price: $15 abv: 9.8% Price: $15 wine should age beautifully for a decade or more. Cel- chocolate. —P.G. 88 ward, appealing wine with notes of fresh cher- 91 ley). The softly floral scents of rose petals and lar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 ry, cranberry and dried herbs. It’s soft and textured body powder introduce this excellent wine, followed Stottle 2012 Lucille Late Harvest Viognier (Ya- abv: 13% Price: $50 in feel with pure flavors, an elegant styling and a tart by bright flavors of Meyer lemon and pink grapefruit. WHITE BLENDS 90 kima Valley). At first a bit sharp and volatile, K Vintners 2010 Morrison Lane Syrah (Walla finish. —S.S. The 20 g/L residual sugar is complemented with zippy this has both substantial residual sugar (50 g/L) and Owen Roe 2011 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel 90 Walla Valley). The fruit is sourced from the abv: 14.4% Price: $25 acids, keeping this well-crafted wine off dry but not Cloudlift Cellars 2012 Updraft White (Columbia significant alcohol for a late harvest wine. It’s spicy 94 Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). For full review first Syrah plantings in the Walla Walla valley. Tannic sweet. Best Buy. —P.G. 91 Valley). Updraft is two thirds Sauvignon Blanc and lightly honeyed, and opens nicely into a mix of see page 4. Editors’ Choice. and dense, it marries plum fruit flavors to streaks of Two Mountain 2010 Copeland Vineyard Syrah abv: 13% Price: $11 and one third Semillon, barrel-fermented. Full-bodied candied pear and pineapple fruit, with streaks of va- abv: 14.1% Price: $55 earth, herb and licorice. A hint of green olive comes 88 (Yakima Valley). Fresh fruit flavors of boysen- and fleshy, it’s bursting with ripe yellow fruits, along nilla running through. —P.G. into the finish, bolstered by high alcohol and sharp berry grab your attention here, interwoven with pep- Basalt Cellars 2012 Double River Ranch Estate with apricot and papaya. On the tropical edge, but fo- abv: 13.1% Price: $20/375 ml Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Co- acidity. —P.G. pery spices. There’s a suggestion of clean earth in the 90 Semillon (Walla Walla Valley). This is a very cused and lightly toasty, as you’d find in a Bordeaux. 93 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 5. Ed- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 well-managed tannins. Not a big Syrah, so drink soon stylish and elegant Sémillon, estate-grown and offer- Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Apex 2012 Late Harvest Sémillon (Columbia itors’ Choice. while it’s fresh and youthful. —P.G. ing tongue-coating, smooth flavors of lemon, lime and abv: 13.9% Price: $18 87 Valley). Aromatically reserved for a dessert abv: 13.9% Price: $21 Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Reserve Syrah (Red abv: 13.9% Price: $25 dusty, dry honeycomb. Lightly dappled with cinnamon wine, with apricot and pear. It’s lusciously sweet, with 90 Mountain). For full review see page 11. spice, it’s an outstanding example of this often-over- Southard 2011 White Wine (Columbia Valley). abundant stone fruit flavors but could use a bit more Dunham 2009 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Snoqualmie 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Long looked grape. —P.G. 91 Scott Southard has flipped the percentag- concentration and acidity to hold it together. —S.S. 92 Valley). One of a trio of Dunham’s Lewis vine- 87 a strong suit at Snoqualmie, this new vintage abv: 14% Price: $24 es from the 2010 vintage, placing Roussanne in the abv: 10.8% Price: $18/375 ml yard reds, this opens slowly, seeming at first a little does not disappoint. It’s light and lively, with dusky

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 69

BUYINGGUIDE

flavors of plum and sweet tomato. Highlights of choco- cludes 5% of each Petit Verdot and Malbec. Dense and finishes with well-proportioned notes of tobacco and into the green. It seems to carry noticeable residual mocha, followed by jalapeno, green herbs and whole Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvi- late and cinnamon are delicately in focus, and it’s hard potent, it’s loaded with black fruits, coffee and tobacco clove. Best Buy. —P.G. sugar, with the sweetness making for an odd juxtapo- green pepper. It’s elegantly styled with tart acidity and 94 gnon (Red Mountain). For full review see page to find a better price for such a nice Syrah in Washing- flavors. The wine is wonderfully rich, with excellent abv: 13.8% Price: $8 sition to the aroma profile. —S.S. blocky tannins. —S.S. 4. Cellar Selection. ton. Best Buy. —P.G. definition and body. Drink now or cellar for another abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 decade. —P.G. Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Muleskinner Mer- abv: 14.6% Price: $28 88 lot (Walla Walla Valley). Whether due to vin- Two Mountain 2010 Copeland Vineyard Re- Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Arlette (Co- WT Vintners 2010 Gorgeous Syrah Destiny Ridge tage conditions or simply the result of re-prioritizing CABERNET FRANC 85 serve Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). There 94 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 4. Cel- 87 Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). Fermented Canoe Ridge 2010 Estate Grown Merlot Block 8 the brand, production of the Muleskinner has plum- are some interesting components in this reserve lar Selection. with 30% whole clusters and aged 20 months in neu- 91 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This 100% varietal meted. Too bad, as this 100% estate-grown varietal Walla Walla Vintners 2011 Cabernet Franc (Co- Cabernet Franc, but they are yet to be balanced. Blue abv: 14.5% Price: $50 tral French oak, this is a distinctive wine with notes wine shows notes of raspberry and chocolate sprin- wine is a unique expression of Walla Walla fruit. Here, 92 lumbia Valley). This is an elegant wine, blend- plum, leather, a whiff of the pickle barrel and some reminiscent of sage along with white pepper, violets kled with oak spices from time in 50% new French it’s tight, tannic and sharp-toothed with wild, brambly ed with 13% Merlot and just a splash of Carmenère green flavors in the tannins, all seem a bit jarring; time Dunham 2010 XVI Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- and a tinge of copper. Designed for the dinner table, barrels. It’s wound up tightly at present, packed to the berry fruit in a compact frame. The aromatics promise adding some peppery spice. Surprising citrus high- will tell. —P.G. 93 bia Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar the palate is lighter in style with tart acidity. —S.S. brim with red fruit flavors and firm, slightly gritty tan- more, so this could age for a bit before drinking. —P.G. lights suggest tangerine juice and rind, and the tart abv: 13.7% Price: $30 Selection. abv: 14.3% Price: $24 nins. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $50 pomegranate and wild cherry fruit slides gracefully abv: 13.4% Price: $45 abv: 15.1% Price: $58 into sleek tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Tildio 2010 Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope). Cadaretta 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This Boomtown 2011 Merlot (Washington). This abv: 14.2% Price: $30 84 Hailing from Weinbau Vineyard, it brings Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Estelle (Co- 86 was co-fermented with 3% Viognier. It’s a Gordon Estate 2010 Estate Grown Merlot (Co- 87 Merlot includes 13% Syrah, along with smaller notes of chocolate, cherry cordial and herbs. It’s quite 93 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 5. very light Syrah that punches below its weight and 91 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 8. Ed- amounts of Petit Verdot and Cabernet. Vanilla and to- Tamarack Cellars 2011 Cabernet Franc (Wahluke tart—almost sour—with a dry, chalky feel. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $50 skirts around the edges of clear varietal character. itors’ Choice. bacco scents open the door to a sharp, peppery wine, 91 Slope). This is a 100% varietal selection, with abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Citrus skin flavors and thin red fruits push it close to abv: 13.9% Price: $21 with flavors cloaked in bark and scorched earth. It’s most of the fruit coming from Weinbau Vineyard. It Northstar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia generic red, serviceable but without the power of most rustic, big and flavorful, with a fat, meaty finish. This brings an assortment of barrel notes—including mo- Vin du Lac 2009 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc 93 Valley). Consumers may find it difficult to -dif Washington Syrahs in this price range. —P.G. K Vintners 2010 Stoneridge Vineyard Merlot is the wine to go with your tri-tip. —P.G. cha, cedar and char from 20% new French oak—and 84 (Columbia Valley). Blended with 14% Merlot ferentiate this from the 2010 Ste. Michelle version of abv: 14.2% Price: $35 91 (Washington). A spicy, herbal Merlot, sourced abv: 14.1% Price: $16 varietal flavors of cherry, flowers and herbs. It starts and aged in a mix of French and American oak, this the same wine—both are 100% Cold Creek vineyard from a site on the Royal Slope, this distinctive wine out lighter in style, fleshing out over time with tart opens with pleasant, simple raspberry fruit scents and Cabernet Sauvignon. But this one, bottled under the Waterbrook 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). ranges from strawberry to cherry, brambly and rath- Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Canoe Ridge Estate acidity providing a lift.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. flavors. In the mouth it turns thin and bitter, with a Northstar label, has more muscle, more power and 86 Lifted by 8% Carménère and Viognier, it’s er tightly wound. Woven through are threads of seed, 87 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Though the oak is abv: 14% Price: $30 burnt flavor in the finish. —P.G. more depth. Tannic, thick and darkly fruited, it’s a straight down the fairway with notes of blueberry, or- herb, stem and earth. It’s as close to a Bordeaux style high quality (62% new American and French), it’s in abv: 14.5% Price: $40 tightly-wound yet expressive effort, with complex fla- ange peel, pepper and brambly fruit. Lighter in style, it as this winery ever comes. —P.G. your face on this 100% varietal wine, with notes of Dusted Valley 2011 Cabernet Franc (Columbia vors that move from black cherry and cassis into fig, tapers toward the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 char and toast. It’s soft, silky and elegant in feel but 89 Valley). Three excellent vineyards—Stonetree, tar, tobacco, espresso, dark chocolate and smoke. Cel- abv: 13.43% Price: $15 the barrel flavors take over making it hard to get all the Bacchus and Minnick Hills—contribute to this firm- CABERNETS AND BLENDS lar Selection. —P.G. Nelms Road 2012 Merlot (Washington). For fruit notes. —S.S. ly-built Cabernet Franc. Fine tannins, a light touch of abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Boomtown 2011 Syrah (Washington). This is 90 full review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 barrel toast and a hint of dark chocolate surround tart Gramercy Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 85 quite light, with a leafy character and barely abv: 14.1% Price: $25 blackberry and cassis fruit. A lick of caramel comes 95 (Columbia Valley). This thrilling wine, sourced Tamarack Cellars 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ripe fruit flavors that hint at tomato paste. Some pine- Two Mountain 2010 Copeland Vineyard Merlot out in the finish. Not a big wine, but exceptionally from the Phinny Hill vineyard in the Horse Heaven 93 Reserve Red (Red Mountain). Richly aromatic, apple and vanilla flavors come in, making this a rather Woodward Canyon 2010 Merlot (Columbia 87 (Yakima Valley). Juicy and plummy, this is a well-balanced. —P.G. Hills, displays all the tense power of great Washington on the strength of the nose alone this could pass for odd, though still interesting, budget bottle. —P.G. 90 Valley). Rather blocky and oaky at first, this wine with generous amounts of purple fruit scents and abv: 14.7% Price: $42 Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep flavors of berry, plum and something from Napa’s Rutherford Bench. The blue abv: 14% Price: $16 can seem a bit overwhelmed with flavors from barrel flavors up front. The tannins turn a bit green and show cassis are threaded with gravelly streaks of tar, coffee and purple fruit notes and dusty tannins all say Cal- aging. The tightly-wound red fruits appear slowly with some bitterness in the finish. —P.G. Basalt Cellars 2010 Chelle den Millie Vineyard and anise. Aged in 40% new French oak, it strikes a ifornia, but the laser-like definition, minerality and Vin du Lac 2009 Barrel Select Syrah (Columbia hours of breathing, along with some alcohol heat in the abv: 13.8% Price: $22 87 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Forward perfect balance through a long finish. Editors’ Choice. natural acidity prove it’s Washington fruit all the way. 85 Valley). Blackberry fruit is the focus of this finish. Give this as much aerating as possible. —P.G. fruit flavors of blackberry and plum slide quickly —P.G. Strikingly dense and complex, with decades of life one-dimensional Syrah. Some coffee flavors come into abv: 14.9% Price: $44 Snoqualmie 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). through the mid-palate and on into a soft finish. A abv: 13.9% Price: $48 ahead. Cellar Selection. —P.G. play, presumably from barrel aging, and the tannins 86 Light but pretty scents and flavors of berry faint wash of leather and earth wraps it up. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 are rough and grainy. —P.G. Kiona 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Though and cherry push through this pleasant, fruity Merlot. abv: 13.3% Price: $32 Southard 2010 Whipping Boy Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.6% Price: $40 89 labeled Columbia Valley, this is in fact 100% Hints of tea and vanilla are there, but not intrusive. 95 gnon (Columbia Valley). Alcohol that reaches Woodward Canyon 2010 Estate Reserve Mer- Merlot from the estate vineyards on Red Mountain. The tannins carry some slightly stemmy flavors.Best Cloudlift Cellars 2011 Ascent Cabernet Franc these levels is often a complexity killer, but not here. 93 lot-Petit Verdot-Cabernet Franc-Cabernet Sau- It’s chewy and tannic, as is often the case with Red Buy. —P.G. 87 (Horse Heaven Hills). Aged in a mixture of This is a stunningly delicious wine, with ripe, power- vignon (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 5. MERLOT Mountain reds, with black cherry and cassis fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $10 French and American oak, of that, 33% new, the bar- ful and concentrated black fruits. Baking spices, tar, Cellar Selection. wrapped by astringent tannins hinting at dark choco- rel notes of vanilla and spice are at the fore followed by pencil lead, even a whiff of compost all add to the com- abv: 14.8% Price: $79 Dunham 2009 Lewis Vineyard Merlot (Colum- late. In short, a fine steak wine, that needs some fat to Vin du Lac 2009 Barrel Select Merlot (Columbia cherry and herbs. It’s blended with 19% Merlot where plexity and the depth of flavor is magnificent. This can 94 bia Valley). The 2009 Lewis Merlot is in peak cut the tannins. —P.G. 85 Valley). Volatile and sharp from the get-go, all the fruit is coming from Alder Ridge Vineyard and age at least a decade but is delicious already! Cellar Buty 2010 Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vine- form—a dark, smoky, dare we say ’brooding’ wine with abv: 13.7% Price: $25 this Merlot bites rather than soothes. Dried cherry made in a lighter style—the oak providing a significant Selection. —P.G. 92 yard (Horse Heaven Hills). The 85% of Cab- generous swatches of cassis, espresso, cacao, licorice fruit carries streaks of licorice and baking chocolate, amount of the flavor and feel. —S.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $25 ernet Sauvignon is upfront, with Syrah providing an and sandalwood. It glides into a silky, seamless, sexy Mannina Cellars 2010 Merlot (Walla Walla along with some suggestions of volatility. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $25 accent. It’s tightly wound, with notes of dusty cherry, finish, lingering generously for a minute or more.Cel - 89 Valley). This wine spent more than two years abv: 14.4% Price: $40 Dunham 2009 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet Sau- sautéed herbs and spices, and tart cranberries sup- lar Selection. —P.G. in barrel, yielding some grainy, textural tannins. The O•S Winery 2011 Elephant Mountain Vineyards 94 vignon (Columbia Valley). As with Dunham’s ported by chewy, firm tannins that need time in the abv: 14.4% Price: $75 plummy fruit is backed with licorice, vanilla and black Washington Hills 2012 Merlot (Washington). 86 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). Mixed ber- other Lewis Vineyard designates, this is 100% vari- cellar to come into their own. Best after 2017.Cellar tea flavors, all nicely integrated. —P.G. 84 This young Merlot is 100% varietal, with ry fruit flavors have an over-ripe, pruney character. etal, showcasing the distinct imprint of the vineyard Selection. —S.S. Efestē 2010 Upright Klipsun Vineyard Merlot abv: 14.1% Price: $24 bright notes of berry, ash and herbs. It’s light with lit- A dark streak of smoke, licorice and chocolate runs as it impacts one specific grape. Sharp and smoky, with abv: 14.4% Price: $50 92 (Red Mountain). For full review see page 6. tle apparent oak influence making it direct and acces- straight through the core and the tannins turn a little bright flavors of raspberry and cherry fruit, the wine Cellar Selection. Columbia Crest 2010 Two Vines Merlot (Wash- sible with chalky tannins rounding it out. —S.S. bitter and rough. Drink now. —P.G. remains deep, pure and focused as it runs through an Efestē 2010 Big Papa Old Block Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.8% Price: $39 88 ington). It would be hard to find a better $8 abv: 13.14% Price: $12 abv: 14.1% Price: $28 extended, detailed finish.Cellar Selection. —P.G. 92 vignon (Columbia Valley). For full review see Merlot anywhere. This is soft and full-bodied, quite abv: 14.2% Price: $75 page 6. Cellar Selection. Bergevin Lane 2010 Wild Child Merlot (Columbia flavorful and fruity, with pretty black cherry fruit. Sagelands 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This San Juan Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc abv: 14.5% Price: $54 91 Valley). Here is the best of the current red wine Drinking especially nicely with a bit of bottle age, it 82 wine appears to have suffered from the cool 86 (Horse Heaven Hills). Lighter in color, the releases from Bergevin Lane, a Merlot blend that in- 2011 vintage with prominent herbal notes that lean far wood is up front initially with notes of toast, spice and

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 71

BUYINGGUIDE

Gordon Estate 2010 Six Cabernet Sauvignon ty. Chewy and stylish, its briary fruits carry through a and supple, with excellent balance and polished tan- with all of the fruit coming from StoneTree Vineyard, Kiona 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). and cassis fruit. It offers plenty of flavor, fair value and 92 (Columbia Valley). This pure Cabernet Sau- long, sculpted finish with light accents of herb. —P.G. nins, it’s a wine that rewards decanting. —P.G. it’s barrel-forward, with notes of fresh brewed coffee, 89 Though labeled simply Washington state, this decent length. —P.G. vignon from the estate vineyard shows focused blue- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.7% Price: $50 dark chocolate and cherry. It starts out lighter in style Bordeaux-style blend is sourced entirely from Kiona’s abv: 13.7% Price: $18 berry, black cherry and cassis fruit at its core, with before fleshing out over time with a pleasing interplay Red Mountain vineyards. The wine includes 20% underlying minerality. Dusty tannins and firm acids Nodland Cellars 2009 Private Blend (Columbia Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon between the oak and fruit flavors. Soft tannins and Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, yielding a deep, Passion Vineyards 2009 Impervious (Columbia support a chewy, cherry-infused finish. —P.G. 91 Valley). All six Bordeaux varieties are incorpo- 91 (Walla Walla Valley). Along with the Cabernet tart acidity provide the frame. —S.S. darkly fruited wine with cassis, black coffee, graphite 88 Valley). Consistent with previous releases, the abv: 13.8% Price: $40 rated here, half being Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend includes small abv: 14.2% Price: $28 and a whiff of barnyard. It’s young, tight and chewy, Impervious is dark, dense and heavily extracted. Here Walla’s Pepperbridge vineyard. A smooth entry brings percentages of each of the other five grapes. It’s a styl- but has excellent aging potential. Editors’ Choice. the dominant grape is Cabernet Sauvignon—about Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Proprietor’s Cuvée up a flavorful mix of ripe strawberry, red plum and ish blend, opening with a precisely-defined toasty aro- Owen Roe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima —P.G. 60%—and the fruit runs through very ripe raisins, 92 Columbia Valley). For full review see page 6. black cherry fruits. The wine is somewhat liquorous, ma, leading into a complex palate built upon red and 90 Valley). Thick and juicy, this immediately ap- abv: 13.7% Price: $25 figs and plums. It plays out broadly across the palate, Cellar Selection. with the alcohol showing in a finish tasting of Bour- black fruits, sleek tannins and a hint of caramel. —P.G. pealing wine is bursting with flavors of cherry, cassis full and generously oaky, with vivid streaks of balsam- abv: 14.1% Price: $50 bon-soaked cherries. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 and chocolate—a winning combination. It’s not quite Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Frederick Red ic and toffee. Drink soon. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $28 as precisely detailed as the winery’s single vineyard 89 (Walla Walla Valley). The Frederick Red is abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Owen Roe 2011 Red Willow Vineyard 1973 Block William Grassie 2011 Courageux (Columbia Val- offerings, but the most approachable and ready to a Bordeaux-style blend—55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This of- Obelisco Estate 2011 Electrum Estate Grown 91 ley). This is an excellent, Bordeaux-style blend, drink at this time. —P.G. 19% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot and 8% Petit Ver- Shining Hill 2010 Red (Columbia Valley). fers a fascinating glimpse of history in a bottle, as it’s 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). A Caber- almost three quarters Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s con- abv: 14.1% Price: $55 dot. It doesn’t show its strengths immediately, but, 88 Though sourced principally from Red Moun- from the original planting of Cabernet Sauvignon at net-dominated, Bordeaux-style blend, the Electrum centrated and shows pinpoint focus, with pure, dark instead, is rather sharp, with chalky acidity. Give it tain grapes, where the Col Solare winery is located, Red Willow. As many previous vintages have proven, is tannic, dark and earthy. Its cassis fruit is cloaked fruit flavors of black cherry and cassis. The lingering William Grassie 2011 Impératrice (Columbia several hours of breathing time and it fills out, with this Cab-dominated Bordeaux-style blend is simply the strong herbal elements age gracefully, and there in rich, dense layers of graphite, espresso and dark finish sparkles with cinnamon highlights. —P.G. 90 Valley). Impératrice is the book-end com- sweet cherry tobacco flavors, and hints of fresh-picked labeled Columbia Valley. It’s a user-friendly wine with is an appealing creaminess to the tart rhubarb and chocolate. The density is impressive and suggests that abv: 14.4% Price: $45 panion to the Cab-dominated Courageux from Wil- mushrooms. —P.G. plump cherry fruit and notes of tobacco, licorice and pomegranate red fruits. —P.G. a decade or more in the cellar may prove rewarding. liam Grassie. Here, the Merlot dominates the blend, abv: 14.7% Price: $50 vanilla. Soft and supple and ready to drink. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $72 Cellar Selection. —P.G. Woodward Canyon 2011 Artist Series 20th An- produced in a Right Bank style showing brambly, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $75 91 niversary Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). incense-laden aromatics. Smooth and silky in the Browne Family Vineyards 2011 Tribute (Colum- Pamplin 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Toast and mocha scents and flavors surround a core mouth, the dark fruit core is surrounded with herb, 88 bia Valley). A Merlot and Malbec dominated 14 Hands 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia 92 Valley). Sourced principally from Klipsun, Owen Roe 2011 DuBrul Vineyard Cabernet Sau- of tart red berries. More barrel influence comes out pepper, coffee and brown spices. —P.G. Bordeaux-style blend with a splash of 7% Syrah added 87 Valley). The 14 Hands Cabernet has more grip with smaller amounts from Champoux and Seven 91 vignon (Yakima Valley). A peppery, aromatic as the wine breathes—clove, spice and smoke—as it abv: 14.4% Price: $45 to the mix, it’s lightly aromatic with notes of herbs, and authority than the Hot To Trot Red, but perhaps Hills, this tight, dark, richly-flavored wine has impec- start leads into this tightly-layered, pure varietal, rolls into a tightly-wrapped, tannic finish. Give this a plum and blueberry. The fruit flavors are light in style, less immediate appeal. Black cherry and fig fruit are cable credentials. Black fruits, espresso and citrus— single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s layered with lot of aeration, or tuck it away for another five or six Bergevin Lane 2010 Calico (Columbia Valley). with quite firm tannins that need some time to un- swathed in chocolate malt flavors, with a wash of notably blood orange—mingle seamlessly, though it red berry fruits, from strawberries on through. Young years. —P.G. 89 This popular red blend is almost three quar- wind. —S.S. mocha setting up the finish. Take your pick; either of takes some hours to open up. The Red Mountain fruit and firm, it shows just the right amount of barrel toast abv: 14.4% Price: $54 ters Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller amounts of abv: 13.3% Price: $33 these reds is sure to please. Best Buy. —P.G. contributes characteristic notes of iron ore and under- around polished tannins. —P.G. Syrah, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Tasty, chewy and tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 lying minerality. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $72 Cloudlift Cellars 2011 Halycon Cabernet Sauvi- nic, it shows strong flavors of cassis, licorice, smoke Canoe Ridge 2010 Block 1 Estate Grown Caber- abv: 14.7% Price: $55 90 gnon (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of just over and espresso—the same dark style as the winery’s va- 88 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). All coming Boomtown 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wash- Pursued by Bear 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon with the rest Merlot rietal reds. It offers especially good grip and power for from a single block of the winery’s estate vineyard, 87 ington). A nice companion to the Boomtown Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Sagemoor Vine- 91 lumbia Valley). Tasty and smooth, this Cabernet both coming from Alder Ridge Vineyard, it’s direct a wine in this price range. Best Buy. —P.G. this is a 100% varietal, aged in half new French oak. Merlot, this shows similar balance and depth, albeit 92 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Sauvignon includes 11% each Merlot and Syrah, and and appealing with high register notes of herbs, va- abv: 14.2% Price: $14 It’s drinking young with reticent notes of olive, coffee, with an accent on tart berry fruit flavors dusted with This sources grapes from the oldest (1972) blocks at was aged in 100% Taransaud oak barrels. The fruit is nilla, plum, cherry and medicine cabinet. It’s lighter boysenberry and cherry. The acids are quite tart—tak- dried herbs. There are citrusy acids and a hint of moist Sagemoor, yielding a deep, rich and intense wine sat- ripe and pretty, the barrels bringing in plenty of lush, in style with a low alcohol feel and a pleasing sense Bergevin Lane 2010 Moonspell Cabernet Sau- ing days to settle down—buffeted by firm, gritty tan- earth. —P.G. urated with black cherry, cassis, licorice and barrel toasty accents. Drink now or over the next 5–6 years. of balance leading to a chocolate filled finish. Editors’ 89 vignon (Columbia Valley). Though 82% Cab- nins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 flavors. It’s perfectly balanced, drinking beautifully, —P.G. Choice. —S.S. ernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend includes abv: NA Price: $58 and fit for cellaring over a decade or longer. Cellar Se- abv: 14.4% Price: $65 abv: 13.9% Price: $28 6% each of Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Plum and Cadaretta 2010 Roughout Cabernet Sauvignon lection. —P.G. cassis fruits anchor the dark flavors, enhanced with Columbia Crest 2011 Grand Estates Cabernet 87 (Columbia Valley). Roughout is a fun wine, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Uriah Red (Walla Dusted Valley 2010 VR Special Cabernet Sauvi- streaks of licorice, espresso, smoke and tar. At the 88 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The Grand Es- with a burst of sweet cherry fruit opening into a wild 91 Walla Valley). Uriah is Spring Valley’s Right 90 gnon (Columbia Valley). A big, ripe, liquorous moment the tannins remain quite astringent and the tates Cabernet is solid and consistent from vintage to side that veers toward bramble and forest flavors. It’s Woodward Canyon 2010 Artist Series #19 Cab- Bank-style blend, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc wine, it seems at first to have been soaked in Bourbon overall wine a bit tight, but a little more time in bottle vintage. It often retails for less than the listed price, not a big red, but highly gulp-able and perfect for a 92 ernet Sauvignon (Washington). Liquorous and sharing the lead. It’s lively and fine-tuned, with a love- barrels. But give it extra breathing time, and it begins may smooth that out. —P.G. making it a particularly fine value. Here, again, the burger night. —P.G. tight, this opens into a rich and full mid-palate loaded ly mix of red fruits, spices, and fresh acidity. It spent to smooth out and open up with brambly blackberry abv: 14.4% Price: $28 fruit shines with well-focused flavors of pomegranate abv: 13.9% Price: $15 with smoky cassis and tar, accented with aromas of 21 months in 65% new French oak, to good effect. and black cherry fruit at its core. Dark, dusty and tan- and berry. The mouthfeel is fresh and flavors vividly cedar and tobacco. The taste and track record suggest —P.G. nic, with accents of tar and espresso, this is a good Cadaretta 2009 Springboard Red (Columbia etched with excellent length. Best Buy. —P.G. Columbia Crest 2011 Two Vines Merlot-Cabernet at least a decade of further aging is necessary. Cellar abv: 14.4% Price: $50 candidate to spend another 8–10 years in your wine 89 Valley). This Bordeaux-style reserve blends abv: 13.5% Price: $12 87 (Washington). The Cabernet in this blend is Selection. —P.G. cellar. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Petit Verdot and 11% Cabernet Franc, making it a Right Bank Bordeaux-style abv: 14.1% Price: $54 Tamarack Cellars 2009 DuBrul Vineyard Reserve abv: 14.9% Price: $53 Merlot. It’s well-built and has some extra years of age Columbia Crest 2011 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon blend, at an astonishingly low price. Tart berry fruit 91 (Rattlesnake Hills). This is made from 62% under its , which has helped smooth out the tan- 88 (Horse Heaven Hills). An aromatic offering of and some stiff tannins suggest that a bit more bottle Apex 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val- Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Merlot and Kiona 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Red nins. Medium weight, with brambly blackberry, pep- Cabernet with notes of char, butterscotch, vanilla and age may help to soften it; there are already some pleas- 91 ley). Aromatically reticent initially it opens to Cabernet Franc, all aged 22 months in half new French 90 Mountain). Principally sourced from the win- per, earth and woodsy accents. —P.G. cherry with an underlayer of herbs. It’s elegant and ing suggestions of barrel toast that run through the reveal notes of herbs, coffee, plum and barrel spic- oak. It’s brooding, with notes of dark chocolate, cherry ery’s oldest block of Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers abv: 14.1% Price: $50 soft in feel with chocolaty flavors and a grip of tannins aromas and on into the finish.Best Buy. —P.G. es. It’s elegantly styled with silky cherry flavors and and herbs. It shows more direct tannic heft than often a solid core of dense black cherry and cassis fruit. on the finish. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 soft tannins that lead to a drawn out finish. Editors’ seen at this site and will benefit from some time in the There’s a streak of cola and sassafras, and the wine Columbia Crest 2010 Walter Clore Private abv: 14% Price: $15 Choice. —S.S. cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.S. seems to lighten up as it sails into the finish. The 89 Reserve (Columbia Valley). The blend has Efestē 2010 Nana Red (Columbia Valley). This abv: 14.2% Price: $33 abv: 14.58% Price: $50 blend includes 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Ver- changed a bit with this latest Walter Clore Private Mannina Cellars 2011 Cali Red (Walla Walla 87 new wine from Efestē is a Right bank, Bor- dot. —P.G. Reserve, now 53% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Valley). Principally a Cabernet Sauvignon and deaux-style blend of Merlot, Cab Franc and Cabernet Columbia Crest 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau- Tamarack Cellars 2009 Tapteil Vineyard Reserve abv: 13.5% Price: $42 and 11% Cabernet Franc—no Malbec. It seems a bit Merlot blend, it’s quite dry, to the point of being aus- Sauvignon. Tight and unyielding, even after many 91 vignon (Columbia Valley). The reserve is still 91 Red (Red Mountain). Sourced from 18-year-old chewy and chalky. The fruit has a slightly candied as- tere, with earthy tannins behind chunky black cherry hours of breathing time, it’s difficult to assess at this tightly wound, but expressive, with firm, focused fla- vines, this Bordeaux-style blend is loaded with aro- Knight Hill 2010 StoneTree Vineyard Cabernet pect, with suggestions of fruitcake. —P.G. stage. Moderately ripe fruit remains closed down, vors of cassis fruit, backed with a refreshing minerali- matic red fruits and deliciously savory spices. Smooth 90 Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). 100% varietal abv: 14.5% Price: $35

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 73

BUYINGGUIDE

showing gentle hints of sweet tomato, pomegranate American oak, though what percentage was new is push along the aging process. Drink now and over the Efestē 2010 Final-Final Cabernet-Syrah (Co- Charles & Charles 2012 Cabernet Sauvi- packs some heat, along with flavors of red and purple and dried herbs. —P.G. not stated. It enters the palate with a pleasing mix of next five years. —P.G. 89 lumbia Valley). The blend is 59% Cabernet 87 gnon-Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full review fruits. The finish turns a bit chalky and tart. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $44 cassis, tar and a hint of mint, then seems to hit a wall abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Sauvignon and 41% Syrah, fermented in one third new see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 and fade. —P.G. French oak. It drinks well after some aeration, though abv: 13.6% Price: $12 Mannina Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.9% Price: $28 Efestē 2011 Emmy (Wahluke Slope). For full re- remains a bit stiff with cranberry and cherry fruit at Waterbrook 2011 Melange Red (Columbia Val- 87 (Walla Walla Valley). This new Cabernet Sau- 92 view see page 6. the core. Light layers of earth and coffee roll into mod- Columbia Crest 2011 Les Chevaux Red Blend 86 ley). A kitchen sink-style blend of Cabernet vignon has the raisined fruit flavors of an older, or Snoqualmie 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- abv: 15% Price: $45 erate, smooth tannins. —P.G. 87 (Horse Heaven Hills). Three quarters Syrah Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Tempranil- quickly aging wine. Barrel aging contributes addition- 85 bia Valley). Part of Snoqualmie’s new Eco se- abv: 14.1% Price: $28 with the rest Merlot and aged in a mixture of Amer- lo and other varieties, with no single one making up al elements of soy and maple syrup, eventually thin- ries of organic wines, this young Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Bello Rosso Cabernet ican and French oak (30% new), it has notes of plum, more than a quarter of the blend. It brings notes of va- ning out through the finish. Drink soon. —P.G. includes 25% Merlot in the blend. The aromas are an 92 Sauvignon-Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). The Northstar 2009 Stella Maris (Columbia Val- blueberry and vanilla with a soft, elegant feel and a nilla, cashews, herbs, pepper and assorted berries that abv: 13.8% Price: $30 unusual mix of flower and grain; tart, earthy rhubarb 2010 Bello Rosso sticks to the 50-50 Sangiovese, Cab- 89 ley). A Merlot-dominated blend, this lush and long, chocolatey finish. —S.S. don’t completely marry but still provide enjoyment, flavors follow. The wine finishes on a somewhat sour ernet Sauvignon formula, with a full, round, ripe and appealing wine greets you with a pretty, toasty bou- abv: 14% Price: $15 with firm tannins providing much of the feel. —S.S. Nelms Road 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wash- note. —P.G. balanced palate. Fruity and forward, with citrus-ac- quet, leading into a mix of plum, stem, wood, coffee abv: 13.3% Price: $16 87 ington). There’s a bit of a green bean streak abv: 14% Price: $13 cented cherry fruit, it pulls together the strengths of and toasted coconut flavors. The fruit thins out a bit Hawkins Cellars 2011 Caldera Red (Columbia running through this Cabernet from Woodward Can- both grapes, with taut acidity and firm tannins. Cellar more quickly than you’d hope, but the flavors are good 87 Valley). Mourvèdre and Grenache share the Cadaretta 2010 Heartwood Red (Columbia yon’s second label, Nelms Road. Herbal red fruits have Tildio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Selection. —P.G. and consistent throughout. —P.G. lead in this Rhône-style blend, with Syrah and Viog- 85 Valley). A big burst of vanilla highlights the a clear earthy element, but it’s a good bottle for a cold 84 Slope). Though just four years old, this wine abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 nier filling in the rest. It’s a bit amorphous, showing scents and flavors of this Rhône-inspired blend of night and a warm stew. —P.G. seems a bit dried out with notes of dried cherry, huck- red fruits, baking spices and some heat in the finish. A Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Unfortu- abv: 14.1% Price: $NA leberry and brown sugar. It’s supple in feel but the ac- Lauren Ashton Cellars 2011 Cuvée Mirabelle (Co- Southard 2011 Lawrence Vineyard Red Wine decent quaffer, but no specific focus. —P.G. nately, all that vanilla obscures the fruit and blankets ids are surprisingly tart and take over. —S.S. 91 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 9. 89 (Columbia Valley). Though labeled simply abv: 14.5% Price: $28 any subtleties. Residual flavors of stem and slightly O•S Winery 2010 BSH Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.9% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ’Red’, this is 72% Grenache and 28% Syrah from a green tannins fill in the finish. —P.G. 87 (Columbia Valley). This BSH is 86% Caber- Royal Slope vineyard. Pungent and intense, this car- Three Rivers 2009 Svelte Red (Columbia Val- abv: 14.2% Price: $23 net Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Vin du Lac 2009 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvi- Tamarack Cellars 2011 Spicebox (Columbia Val- ries a whiff of kerosene over tangy wild raspberry fruit. 87 ley). This vintage of Svelte is still rough around Ripe to the point of showing some scents of raisin and 84 gnon (Columbia Valley). The fruit seems to be 91 ley). A new style and blend from Tamarack, In this cool vintage, the leaf and stem flavors show, but the edges, with chalky, slightly green tannins sticking Kana 2010 Dark Star (Columbia Valley). This prune, this is most expressive of baking spice high- a bit over-ripe, already showing some signs of decay, Spicebox mixes Grenache from Weinbau, Counoise the balance is maintained throughout, with the fruit out. The fruit seems to be hiding behind the earthy 85 five grape southern Rhône-style blend shows lights, clove and licorice. It turns a bit volatile and the perhaps accented further by the stemmy flavors in the from Ciel du Cheval, and Syrah from Sagemoor. It’s gaining breadth and spice as it breathes. —P.G. components, and some unusual flavors of bread dough sour cherry fruit, set in an earthy frame. Simple and tannins seem to be quickly drying out. Drink up. —P.G. tannins and the chalky mouthfeel. Drink now. —P.G. aged in neutral barrels, putting the emphasis on fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 and biscuit are also in the mix. This is a wine that’s rugged, it’s suitable for every day drinking. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 14.6% Price: $40 vors of grape, root and leaf. Raspberries, minerals and tough to sort out. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 tart acids are in play, in an elegant and ageworthy red. William Grassie 2011 Libération (Columbia Val- abv: 14.8% Price: $50 Owen Roe 2012 Sharecropper’s Cabernet Sauvi- —P.G. 89 ley). This tasty, toasty Syrah-dominated red Kana 2010 Scarlet Fire Reserve Red (Columbia 87 gnon (Columbia Valley). This Cabernet Sauvi- OTHER RED BLENDS abv: 13.8% Price: $28 brings Cabernet and Merlot into the mix, yielding a William Grassie NV Millésimes Mélangés (Co- 85 Valley). Tart red fruit flavors, lightly spiced, gnon blend is very young and ready to drink with its wine with bright raspberry and blackberry fruit at its 87 lumbia Valley). This is a blend of wines from reflect a mix of southern Rhône grapes. The tannins sweet fruit and forward, vanilla-laced flavors. It fades Gramercy Cellars 2011 The Third Man Red (Co- Dusted Valley 2011 Wallywood Red (Columbia core. Firm tannins and balancing acidity complete the their 2011 and 2012 vintages, mostly Cabernet Sauvi- are rough and earthy, and the wine turns a bit green quickly, leaving a lingering impression of soda pop 94 lumbia Valley). Grenache and Syrah are the 90 Valley). Wallywood is a Rhône-style red, half picture. —P.G. gnon with a bit of Merlot, as well. Spicy cherry fruit and sour in the finish. —P.G. (root beer). —P.G. mainstays here, with a splash of Mourvèdre complet- Syrah, 40% Mourvèdre and the wild card 10% Petite abv: 14.2% Price: $38 combines with herbal notes and a hint of balsamic. It abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $15 ing the Third Man blend. For the first time, Uplands Sirah. Still young, stiff and tight, its brambly berry has an earthy undertone, but overall the fruit shines. contributes some of the fruit. It’s immensely fragrant, flavors are accented with streaks of earth, herb and Apex 2011 The Catalyst (Columbia Valley). An —P.G. Two Mountain 2009 Copeland Vineyard Broth- Cadaretta 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- fruity, peppery and rich with flavors of strawberry, mineral. This could use another few years in the bot- 88 unusual blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mal- abv: 14.4% Price: $26 84 ers No. 4 Red (Yakima Valley). This appears 86 bia Valley). More of a Bordeaux-style blend raspberry, cherry and plum. There is nothing simple tle to open up. Otherwise, give it plenty of breathing bec, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Tempranillo, with barrel to be a wine that’s simply over-reached. Noticeably than a straight Cabernet, the remaining 25% includes here; scents and flavors compound and linger, and the time. —P.G. spices of vanilla, char and coffee up front followed by 14 Hands 2011 Hot To Trot Red Blend (Columbia high-toned, with a vinegary bite to the cherry flavored a mix of Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It’s a thin more you look, the more you find. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 notes of cherry, peppery spices and herbs. It’s lighter 86 Valley). Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah form the fruit, it’s pushed it a bit too far. Not even 28 months wine, drying and tannic, with dried fruit flavors that —P.G. in style with sweet fruit flavors backed by firm tan- core of this wildly successful red blend from Ste. Mi- in three quarters new French oak can mask the vola- lack freshness. Tannins are leafy and finish with a abv: 14.1% Price: $50 Nodland Cellars 2009 Bad Attitude Red Wine nins. —S.S. chelle Wine Estates. Soft and juicy, it’s packed with tility. —P.G. green edge. —P.G. 90 (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page abv: 13.84% Price: $18 flavors of vanilla, pipe tobacco and cola, while keeping abv: 13.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.1% Price: $40 Côte Nicault 2010 GSM Blend (Wahluke Slope). 12. Best Buy. the stuffing and structure of a substantial wine. An 93 Made from 35% Mourvèdre (concrete aged) abv: 15% Price: $15 Cadaretta 2011 Windthrow Red (Columbia Val- appealing red blend, especially for consumers new to Vin du Lac 2011 Cuvée Rouge Red Cloudlift Cellars 2011 Panorama (Horse Heaven and Syrah (500L French oak), with the balance Gre- 88 ley). Windthrow is a southern Rhône-style wine. Best Buy. —P.G. 84 (Columbia Valley). Sharp scents of raspberry 86 Hills). A blend of 57% Merlot, 26% Cabernet nache (neutral French oak), this inaugural offering is O•S Winery 2011 Red (Columbia Valley). blend consisting of 55% Syrah, 22% Mourvèdre and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 tinged with a hint of plastic lead into a wine that falls Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc all come from Alder captivating, with expressive notes of roasted coffee 90 Roughly two thirds Merlot and one third Cab- a mix of Grenache, Counoise, Cinsault and Viognier. flat in the mouth. Color is fine, vintage is recent, but Ridge Vineyard, shows notes of milk chocolate, cherry, bean, dark fruit, peppery spices and chocolate. It’s ernet Sauvignon, this is the finest O•S Red since their There’s a whiff of truffle and pine resin, along with tart Three Rivers 2012 River’s Red (Columbia Val- there’s little life to it. —P.G. herbs and tire rubber. It’s lighter in style with a slight- rich and densely flavored while still retaining some 2007 vintage. Dark fruits abound, soaked in flavors of red fruits and supporting acidity. It’s balanced and 86 ley). Production of the winery’s most af- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 ly gritty feel to the tannins. —S.S. deftness, with mouthwatering acidity and enough tan- espresso, cedar, licorice and clove. It’s a splendid wine moderately long. —P.G. fordable red wine has zoomed up, with six different abv: 13.9% Price: $26 nic structure to lay down in the cellar for a decade or for the price, one to buy by the case. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $50 grapes—principally Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah— more. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $15 comprising the blend. It’s a kitchen sink wine, pleas- OTHER RED WINES Tildio 2009 Profundo (Wahluke Slope). 50% abv: 14.8% Price: $75 Knight Hill 2010 StoneTree Vineyard (Wahluke ant but wholly generic in flavor, with a saline edge to 86 Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot with the Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Washington State 88 Slope). A blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, the brambly red fruits. —P.G. Maison Bleue 2011 La Montagnette Upland balance Cabernet Franc and Malbec, it brings notes of Kiona NV Cyclops II (Red Mountain). Cyclops 90 Cuvée Red Wine (Washington). Included in the 35% Merlot, 18% Petit Verdot and 5% Petite Sirah, abv: 14.5% Price: $14 94 Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Mountain). An ex- brandy soaked cherry, licorice, herbs and barrel spic- 93 II is an equal blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre Cuvée are all six Bordeaux grapes, along with a splash this is fruit forward, with abundant notes of dried pressive, vibrantly pure wine with a complex medley of es. The fruit flavors are plush in feel and tart with from 2011, and Grenache from 2009. Complex and of Syrah. Given the many fruit sources, there’s still dark cherry, cassis, Red Vines and barrel spices. The Trio Vintners 2011 Riot Red Table Wine (Colum- notes including dark raspberries, wet gravel, crushed tightly wound, dry tannins. —S.S. fragrant, it’s a perfect match of strengths. Strawber- good focus. The sappy blue fruits are framed with lush flavors are plump, painting around the edges initially 86 bia Valley). The 2011 Riot (a play on Trio) is flowers and cherry. Aged in five year old French oak abv: 14.9% Price: $33 ry, cherry and blue plum fruits are underscored with barrel flavors of vanilla cream and toast, with just a before fleshing out with the Petit(e)s providing some half Sangiovese and one quarter each Mourvèdre and barrels, it’s vivid and focused with an initial elegance layers of earth, graphite and licorice. It’s already nicely hint of a green edge to the tannins. —P.G. grip to the tannins. —S.S. Grenache. It’s been amped up in 2011, with the alcohol and delicacy that continues to flesh out and evolve Two Mountain 2010 Copeland Vineyard Cab- balanced, and its nonvintage makeup may have helped abv: 14.3% Price: $28 abv: 14.3% Price: $23 pushing near a heady 15%. Spicy and superripe fruit over time. Give it some time in the cellar to see it at its 86 ernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This pure best. Cellar Selection. —S.S. Cabernet spent 22 months in a mix of French and abv: 14.3% Price: $40

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 75

BUYINGGUIDE

Dusted Valley 2011 StoneTree Vineyard Petite Wind Rose 2011 StoneTree Vineyard Primitivo compelling introduction to the Boundary Breaks col- on this intriguing Riesling fermented spontaneously Red Newt Cellars 2011 Sawmill Creek Vineyards lemon-lime acidity. Finishes on an earthy saffron note. 91 Sirah (Wahluke Slope). Aged in a mixture of 88 (Wahluke Slope). Blended with 10% Barbera lection of wines. Smoky mineral and spice tones lend with indigenous yeast, and subject to 5 months on 89 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of ripe peach —A.I. American and French oak (40% new), it’s a palate and aged in a mixture of French and American oak an exotic flair to freshly pressed apple and tea notes in its lees. It’s strikingly brisk with tart, lemony acid- and apricot entice on this dry, light-bodied Riesling abv: 10.5% Price: $20 stainer with notes of blue and purple fruit, chocolate (45% new), it brings notes of garden herbs, vanilla, this nervy semi-sweet Riesling. It finishes long with ity, but rich with a rustic, savory apple flavor. It’s a that’s remarkably concentrated with stonefruit and and barrel accents. The rich fruit flavors pack a wallop jammy red fruit and chocolate. The feel is pillowy soft sweet touches of spice and honey struck with lemony funky, thoroughly unique wine, but also a remarkably citrus flavors. Pristine lime and lemon acidity pierces Treleaven 2011 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger along with firm tannins that lead to an oak spice filled with tart, cranberry-like acidity brightening it up. acidity. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. complex wine to savor through the course of a long through the palate, singing long and pure through the 87 Lakes). A wisp of smoke accents bright ap- finish. A big wine—not for the faint of heart. —S.S. —S.S. abv: 11.1% Price: $22 evening. —A.I. finish. —A.I. ple and pear notes on this off-dry Riesling. It’s zippy abv: 14.7% Price: $42 abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 10% Price: $18 abv: 11.1% Price: $20 and fresh, with loads of sweet fresh apple flavor, but Boundary Breaks 2011 No. 198 Reserve Riesling piercing acidity lends a long, linear feel that remains Walla Walla Vintners 2011 Sangiovese (Colum- Tildio 2009 Estate Tempranillo (Lake Chelan). 90 (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 10. Ed- Bloomer Creek 2011 Tanzen Dame Auten Vine- Atwater 2011 Dry Estate Vineyards Riesling focused through the finish. —A.I. 91 bia Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’ 87 Aged 18 months in French oak, this 100% va- itors’ Choice. 89 yard 2nd Harvest Riesling (Finger Lakes). Ex- 88 (Finger Lakes). Rich and juicy with aromas of abv: 12% Price: $14 Choice. rietal wine has notes of chocolate, leather, herbs and abv: 8.9% Price: $25 otically spiced with notes of saffron and dried orange preserved peach, fresh apple and even a hint of ber- abv: 14.2% Price: $25 spice. The fruit flavors are sweet and luscious with peel, there’s a fascinating complexity to this honeyed ries, this Riesling is dry in style, yet remarkably for- Fulkerson 2011 William Vigne Dry Riesling very tightly wound, dry tannins. —S.S. Boundary Breaks 2011 No. 239 Dry Riesling late-harvest Riesling. It’s delicate and sprightly on the ward with fruit. The palate is bright, with zesty lem- 86 (Seneca Lake). Woodsy, smoky notes lend a Charles Smith 2010 Broncho Stoneridge Vine- abv: 175% Price: $28 90 (Finger Lakes). Boundary Breaks is an exciting palate, with tangerine acidity and penetrating flavors on-lime acidity that lingers on a medium-long finish. distinct earthiness to this dry Riesling. On the pal- 90 yard Malbec (Washington). Named for an new project from the Finger Lakes, and the No. 239 is of pressed apple and pear. The finish reverberates long —A.I. ate, it’s brisk with lemony acidity and a clean, mineral Oklahoma rock band, this stand-alone Malbec sees Trio Vintners 2011 Heart of the Hill Vineyard one of its best. While ebulliently fruity, almost trop- with notes of honey, tea and spice. —A.I. abv: 11.4% Price: $16 focus. It’s straightforward in style yet refreshing and no oak. It’s a showcase for dense, pure, sweet, yet tart 85 Carménère (Red Mountain). For some reason, ical, on the nose, it’s elegantly dry on the palate with abv: 11.6% Price: $34 quaffable. —A.I. raspberry and boysenberry flavors, with sharp acidity Trio insists on misspelling Carmenère as Carménère. a rich, creamy palate full of ripe grapefruit and peach Fox Run 2011 Riesling 10 Hanging Delta Vine- abv: 12% Price: $13 and a strong mineral streak. —P.G. This is a very spicy , toasty wine, with scents of char flavors. Vibrant lemon-lime acidity, it finishes long Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2011 Dry Riesling (Fin- 88 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Beautifully flo- abv: 14.5% Price: $70 and smoke, from a mix of French and Hungarian bar- with a hint of lime-skin pith. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 89 ger Lakes). While delicate on the nose with ral on the nose with hints of fresh apple, lemon and Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Round Rock Vineyard rels. Baking spices, stem and earth flavors dominate, abv: 12.1% Price: $22 enticing whiffs of orange blossom and freshly pressed peach, this dry, delicately textured Riesling fills the 86 Riesling (Finger Lakes). The nose on this Ries- Kiona 2011 Estate Bottled Lemberger (Red turning excessively astringent as the tannins take over apple, the palate of this Riesling is quite concentrated mouth with ripe grapefruit and lemon flavors. Its ling is lavish with scents of white florals, ripe honey- 90 Mountain). Lemberger, also known as Blau- the finish. —P.G. Fox Run 2011 Riesling 12 Hanging Delta Vine- with rich, ripe apple flavor. It’s dry in style, yet for- sprightly and crisp in character but finishes long with dew and lavender. It’s dry in style with pleasant peach fränkisch, was planted here in the 1970s—the win- abv: 14.8% Price: $28 90 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fox Run’s Geol- ward and juicy, lingering long on the finish with tart, a hint of white-tea astringency. —A.I. flavors, backed by a bold mineral undertone. Finishes ery believes it was the first commercial bottling in ogy Series is a rare opportunity to taste wine sourced lemony acidity. —A.I. abv: 10.1% Price: $30 quite brisk. —A.I. the country. This is a seriously good wine, worthy of Trio Vintners 2011 Les Collines Vineyard Tem- from a single vineyard site but vinified three ways. abv: 10% Price: $15 abv: 11.8% Price: $NA special attention. It could be mistaken for a particu- 85 pranillo (Walla Walla Valley). Pure varietal, The Riesling 12, inoculated with commercial yeast, is Sheldrake Point 2011 Reserve Riesling (Finger larly fine country wine from Italy, southern France or this is a tannic, quite astringent wine, which seems extravagantly musky and floral with an intoxicating Hermann J. Wiemer 2011 Magdalena Vineyard 88 Lakes). Fresh and bright, with notes of orange Atwater 2011 Estate Vineyards Riesling (Finger Spain, with its old vine complexity, red and blue fruits to have fallen a little short of optimal ripeness. Leafy, spice note that penetrates throughout. Semi sweet in 89 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Floral and honey peel and lemon, this dry, intensely mineral Riesling is 85 Lakes). Hints of spice lend an exotic feel to and whiff of tanned leather.Best Buy. —P.G. herbal flavors suggest tomato purée more than berry, style, it dances on the palate with concentrated flavors aromas are touched with earthy hints of saffron and effortlessly quaffable. While delicate in body, the pal- aromas of freshly pressed apples on this Riesling. It’s abv: 13.9% Price: $15 with the tannins dominating the finish. —P.G. of peach and apricot, along with a piercing lemon acid- pollen on this bold, lushly textured Riesling. The pal- ate is concentrated with apple and lime flavors, and off dry in style with ripe, juicy white-grapefruit flavor abv: 13.8% Price: $26 ity. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. ate is quite full bodied, with intense flavors of stone finishes with a slick of beeswax and honey. —A.I. accented with piercingly high acidity. Finishes briskly Walla Walla Vintners 2011 (Walla Wal- abv: 7.9% Price: $25 fruits, poached pears and spice, but finishes long and abv: 11.9% Price: $50 on a slightly bitter note. —A.I. 90 la Valley). This is just the second time that elegant. —A.I. abv: 10.1% Price: $16 this winery has released a Dolcetto, both sourced from NEW YORK Hermann J. Wiemer 2011 HJW Vineyard Dry abv: 12.8% Price: $36 Boundary Breaks 2011 Ovid Line North Riesling the Dwelley vineyard. It’s a very pretty wine, the color 90 Estate Bottled and Grown Riesling (Finger 87 (Finger Lakes). Hints of sage and thyme lend a Lakewood 2011 Riesling (Finger Lakes). While of Pinot Noir, and captures some of the feminine el- RIESLING Lakes). Fragrant of tangerines, yellow peaches and a Hermann J. Wiemer 2011 Semi-Dry Riesling distinctly herbal, savory tone to fresh apple notes on 85 quite earthy and smoky on the nose, this off- egance of that grape as well. Scents of fresh crushed hint of wet stone, this delicate dry Riesling balances 89 (Finger Lakes). Bright, fresh apple and lime this lemony-tart, but refreshingly easy-drinking Ries- dry Riesling is pleasantly fruity on the palate showing raspberries rise from the glass, lightly dusted with co- Fox Run 2011 Riesling 11 Hanging Delta Vineyard stonefruit and honey flavors against an intensely min- notes are accented with an earthy, minerally complex- ling. It’s off dry in style with a delicate honey flavor fresh apple and lemon flavors accented with vibrant coa. Complex details of fresh herb add further interest. 91 Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full review see page eral backdrop. Bright, with lemon-lime acidity, it fin- ity on this multifaceted Riesling. It’s semi-dry in style that lingers on the finish. —A.I. lime acidity. The finish is brisk with some astringency. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 8. Editors’ Choice. ishes long showing a blossomy flair.Editors’ Choice. with forward, juicy apple and nectarine flavors bright- abv: 10.6% Price: $22 —A.I. abv: 14.2% Price: $22 abv: 7.8% Price: $40 —A.I. ened with notes of lime zest and a distinctly herba- abv: 11.4% Price: $13 abv: 11.8% Price: $39 ceous finish. —A.I. Heron Hill 2011 Ingle Vineyard Riesling (Finger Obelisco Estate 2011 Estate Grown Malbec Hermann J. Wiemer 2011 Dry Estate Bottled and abv: 11% Price: $17 87 Lakes). Spice notes accent pressed-apple aro- Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Estate Bottled Yellow 88 (Red Mountain). Production size of this pure, 91 Grown Riesling (Finger Lakes). This is a fan- Red Newt Cellars 2011 Tango Oaks Vineyard mas on this semidry Riesling. The palate is juicy and 85 Dog Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Lam- estate-grown, Red Mountain Malbec is much low- tastic bargain and an exceptionally well-made wine. 90 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fresh green apple and Keuka Spring 2011 Semi Sweet Riesling (Finger penetrating with flavors of quince jelly and elegant oreaux Landing is usually a Finger Lakes favorite, but er in 2011. Earthy and showing a whiff of leather, it It’s refreshing and dry, yet lavishly floral and peachy herb notes flit and dance throughout the nose and 89 Lakes). Hints of spice and smoke add intrigue notes of peach and blossom. Finishes vibrantly, with this 2011 Yellow Dog is a bit subdued and savory com- brings dried cherry fruit, a streak of dark chocolate on the nose and palate. Bright and concentrated with palate of this delicate off-dry Riesling. It’s rich with to sunny peach and pear aromas on this semi-sweet a zippy lemon-honey note. —A.I. pared to recent vintages. Still, it’s brisk and mineral- and smooth tannins in a juicy wine with a lively finish. fruit, it’s balanced by a shower of mineral tones that sweet peach and nectarine flavor, but also layered and Riesling. The palate is invitingly fruity and floral, with abv: 12% Price: $20 ly, with notes of waxy apple skin brightened by brisk Hints of orange peel linger long after the last swallow. extend long through the finish.Editors’ Choice. —A.I. complex with notes of minerals, blossoms and vibrant lush stonefruit flavors accented with vibrant acidity lemon-lime acidity. —A.I. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $18 lime acidity. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. and a flurry of dried herbs on the finish. It’s a creamy, Lakewood 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). A abv: 12.3% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $45 abv: 9.4% Price: $20 textured wine that’s accessible yet multidimensional 87 wish of smoke adds complexity and mystery to Hermann J. Wiemer 2011 Reserve Dry Estate as well. Best Buy. —A.I. bright tangerine, white peach and floral notes on this Treleaven 2011 Dry Riesling (Cayuga Lake). Savage Grace 2012 Underwood Mountain Vine- 91 Bottled and Grown Riesling (Finger Lakes). Bellangelo 2011 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). abv: 11.5% Price: $14 dry-style Riesling. It’s delicate in body, but vibrantly 85 Smoke and musk notes dissipate with aeration 88 yard Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge). Aged nine Wiemer’s Reserve Dry Riesling is the embodiment 89 Ebullient on the nose with scents of fresh structured, with tart lemon-lime acidity that pierces to reveal aromas of ripe stone fruit and floral tones. months in 20% new French oak, this enjoyable offer- of power and grace. It’s intensely aromatic of honey, white peach and tart Meyer-lemon. This dry Riesling Red Newt Cellars 2011 Lahoma Vineyards Ries- through ripe stone-fruit flavors on the palate. —A.I. The palate is dry and intensely tart with a piercing ing brings notes of cedar, cranberry and cola. True to saffron and yellow peaches, and deeply penetrating on is deliciously peachy on the palate, as well. Juicy and 89 ling (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of fresh lemongrass abv: 11.5% Price: $13 lemon-lime acidity. It’s a focused, rather linear wine the vintage, the flavors are richer in style while still re- the palate with a rich, fruity palate laced with wax and brisk with soft citrus acidity, it finishes with a hint of and ramps lend an herbaceous, savory character to with a steely, mineral finish. —A.I. taining acidity with firm, tightly coiled tannins and a black tea notes. Finishes quite long with a lingering waxy lime-skin on the finish. —A.I. this off-dry Riesling. The palate is surprisingly fruity Red Newt Cellars 2011 Bullhorn Creek Vineyard abv: 11.3% Price: $15 mesquite filled finish. Drinking young right now, hide lime-skin tone. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $18 with rich peach and melon flavors accented with hints 87 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Scents of white grape- this one away in the cellar for a while. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $29 of honey and blossoms. Finishes long with a lingering fruit and honeydew rind introduce this dry, refresh- Wagner 2011 Select Riesling (Finger Lakes). abv: 13% Price: $25 Bloomer Creek 2011 Tanzen Dame Auten Vine- mineral tone. —A.I. ing Riesling. It’s quite delicate in structure but con- 85 While off-dry in style, there’s a savory apple Boundary Breaks 2011 No. 110 Semi-Dry Ries- 89 yard 1st Harvest Riesling (Finger Lakes). Layers abv: 10.2% Price: $20 centrated with fresh apple flavor accented by bright tone throughout, accented by hints of lime zest and 90 ling (Finger Lakes). The No. 110 is another of spice, lanolin and orange rind stand out curiously herb. The palate boasts juicy pink grapefruit flavor,

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 77

BUYINGGUIDE

along with a hint of lanolin that lingers on the finish. fortlessly refreshing, leading to a pleasant honey and apple and lemon, this blend of Chardonnay and Pi- with a big, mouth-filling foam and penetrating wild impeccably balanced Cabernet. Lushly textured with —A.I. PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO floral note on the finish. —A.I. not Blanc is piercingly brisk with tight, nervy effer- cherry flavor. —A.I. velvety tannins and a weighty, full-bodied palate, it abv: 10.7% Price: $13 abv: 12.3% Price: $11 vescence. A hint of roasted nuts lingers on the medi- abv: 12% Price: $25 finishes long with delicate spice accents. —A.I. Red Newt Cellars 2011 Curry Creek Vineyards um-long finish. —A.I. abv: 13.7% Price: $25 Bellangelo 2011 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger 87 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). A hint of smoke min- Silver Thread 2011 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). abv: 11.5% Price: $30 84 Lakes). Smoke and earth notes blow off with gles with fresh apple and pear aromas on this delicate, 84 The nose on this Chardonnay is quite attrac- CABERNETS & BLENDS Damiani 2010 Meritage (Finger Lakes). Toast aeration to reveal pleasant apple and lemon notes on but silky and textured Pinot Gris. It’s slightly off-dry tive with notes of mango and musky florals accenting Château Frank 2006 Brut (Finger Lakes). Hints 88 and spice notes add warmth to crisp black- this semi-dry Riesling. It’s lively with acidity, but fin- in style, with concentrated apple and apricot flavors aromas of apples and sugar cookies. The dry, medi- 87 of sugar cookies and nuts add warmth to notes Lamoreaux Landing 2010 76 West (Finger berry and cassis on this elegantly composed Meri- ishes a bit short with some bitterness. —A.I. touched by a hint of honey. Tart lemon acidity adds um-bodied palate is a bit more subdued, with subtle of fresh apple and blossoms on this dainty Cham- 90 Lakes). A large proportion of Cabernet Franc tage. Richly concentrated on the palate, it’s bold and abv: 11% Price: $18 balance and vibe. —A.I. apple and pear flavors accented with soft acidity. Fin- pagne-style sparkling. It’s delicately petillant with lends a ripe, briary tone to crisp blackberry and cas- mouthfilling, with big, brawny tannins that should abv: 12.3% Price: $24 ishes a bit short, but has a hint of spice. —A.I. tart tangerine acidity and pleasant apple and lemon sis flavors in this Bordeaux-style blend. It has vibrant meld beautifully over the next 3–5 years. —A.I. Fulkerson 2011 Beartown Block 28 Riesling abv: 12.7% Price: $16 flavors. —A.I. tart, cranberry acidity, yet still forward and juicy in abv: 13.7% Price: $27 83 (Finger Lakes). There’s a perfumy floral note Damiani 2011 Pinot Grigio (Finger Lakes). Fresh abv: 12% Price: $25 style, with hints of vanilla and spice on the finish. that persists through the nose and palate of this Ries- 86 apple and pear aromas are accented with Nearly Naked 2012 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Thick, velvety tannins should meld elegantly over the Fox Run 2010 Meritage (Finger Lakes). A blend ling. It’s bright with acidity, but lacks concentration notes of white flowers on this delicate Pinot Grigio. 83 Aromatically inviting, with notes of fresh ap- Lamoreaux Landing 2007 Estate Bottled Blanc next 5–7 years. Cellar Selection. —A.I. 88 of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Fox Run’s on the palate. Finishes briskly. —A.I. It’s bristling with lemon-lime acidity, but pleasantly ple, honeydew and white blossoms, this Chardonnay 87 de Blanc (Finger Lakes). Hints of earthy mush- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Meritage highlights Merlot’s rich, ripe black cherry abv: 12% Price: $24 concentrated citrus flavors, and just a hint of reeds on is a bit confected on the palate from candied, overripe room and brioche add depth and maturity to apple and flavor with Cabernet’s taut acidity and herbaceous the finish. —A.I. flavors of apples and quince. It’s a shade off-dry in orange-rind notes in this softly petillant sparkling. It’s Damiani 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon flair. It’s rigidly tannic still, but should mature ele- abv: 12% Price: $16 style with soft, lemony acidity. —A.I. piercingly bright on the palate, with a high-toned lem- 89 (Finger Lakes). This is a remarkably well-com- gantly over the next 3–5 years. —A.I. GEWURZTRAMINER abv: 12% Price: $12 on-lime acidity that lingers on the finish. —A.I. posed wine full of ripe blackberry and cassis flavor ac- abv: 13% Price: $40 Ventosa 2011 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). A wisp abv: 11.9% Price: $15 cented by tart cranberry acidity and a rustic, brambly Bloomer Creek 2011 Tanzen Dame Dry Gewürz- 86 of smoke mingles with blossom, apple and note. Complex, concentrated and elegant, it finishes Lakewood 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). 89 traminer (Finger Lakes). Winemaker Kim pear flavors in this lively, fresh Pinot Gris. It’s quite OTHER WHITE WINES Atwater 2008 Cuvée Brut (Finger Lakes). with layers of granite and wet-stone minerality. —A.I. 87 Ripe, luscious blackberry and bramble bush Engle’s wines always stand out in a flight, and this tart with acidity, but pleasantly fruity with a subtle 86 Dusty mineral notes mingle alongside pret- abv: 13.9% Price: $45 notes are seductive on the nose of this rather big, curiously spicy, sepia-toned Gewürztraminer is no hint of minerality on the finish. —A.I. Heart & Hands 2011 Polarity Pinot Noir (Finger ty floral and apple aromas on this softly effervescent powerful Cabernet Franc. The palate is forward as exception. Aromatic, with notes of orange rind, rose abv: 12.8% Price: $17 87 Lakes). Polarity is an unusual golden-hued sparkling. A blend of 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Char- Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- well, with rich black-fruit flavors accented by sweet petal and potpourri, it’s also intensely flavored with wine made from Pinot Noir grapes that have minimal donnay, it’s strikingly high in acidity but has pleasant 89 gnon (Finger Lakes). Aged in a combination of spice and vanilla, along with a fresh swathe of green black tea and spice that are pleasantly astringent. Not Belhurst 2011 Pinot Grigio (New York). Promi- skin contact after . Barrel fermentation and lemon and apple flavors. —A.I. French, American and Hungarian oak for 14 months, on the finish. —A.I. a classic Gewürztraminer by any means, but uniquely 85 nent on the nose with scents of apple and pear, aging, as well as substantial lees stirring lend a rich, abv: 12% Price: $30 Hazlitt’s Cabernet balances ripe, rich blackberry flavor abv: 13.3% Price: $16 delicious. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. this is a dry, medium-bodied Pinot Grigio with subtle rounded palate and abundant notes of caramel, butter with toasty hints of graham cracker and soft velvety abv: 12.3% Price: $20 nectarine and citrus flavor. It’s puckery from acidity, and popcorn. All this lusciousness is balanced by fresh Damiani 2009 Sparkling Wine (Finger Lakes). tannins that coat the palate. Crisp yet concentrated, Treleaven 2010 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Fin- but refreshing with a clean, brisk finish. —A.I. apple and lemon flavor, and brisk acidity. —A.I. 86 Hints of crushed stone add a sense of min- it finishes long with soft notes of dried herbs. —A.I. 86 ger Lakes). This easy drinking Cabernet Franc Keuka Spring 2011 Gewürztraminer (Finger abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.8% Price: $27 erality throughout this brisk, vigorously effervescent abv: 12.5% Price: $24 is aromatic on the nose, with whiffs of ripe bramble 88 Lakes). Intensely fruity, almost tropical, on blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It’s penetrating bush, raspberry and blackberry. It’s forward and fruity the nose and palate, this concentrated, juicy Gewürz- Hosmer Winery 2011 Pinot Gris (Cayuga Lake). Heron Hill 2011 Morris Vineyard Pinot Blanc on the palate through zippy lemony acidity, and finish- Lamoreaux Landing 2010 Estate Bottled Cab- on the palate, with crisp red cherry flavor and soft traminer balances rich melon and lychee flavors with 85 While unusually perfumey, this dry, full-bod- 87 (Finger Lakes). Scents of apple blossom, pear es with a flair of honey and flowers on the finish. —A.I. 89 ernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Lamoreaux’s stan- acidity that makes it effortlessly quaffable. —A.I. delicate notes of tea and spice. Just a hint off-dry in ied Pinot Gris balances pleasant apple and pear flavors and honeycomb waft from this aromatic Pinot Blanc. abv: 13% Price: $34 dard-label Cabernet Franc spends 18 months in Amer- abv: 13% Price: $29 style. —A.I. with a striking lemon acidity. Robustly structured, a Medium bodied in style, it’s refreshingly tart with tan- ican oak, adopting layers of sweet spice, vanilla and abv: 13% Price: $17 slight warming sensation adds to the finish. —A.I. gerine acidity balanced by fresh apple and pear flavors. Red Tail Ridge 2009 Estate Bubbles Sparkling smoke that penetrate deeply into its black cherry core. abv: 13.2% Price: $16 Effortlessly quaffable. —A.I. 86 Rosé (Finger Lakes). Earthy mushroom, yeast It’s taut and unyielding on the palate, with bold acidi- MERLOT Bellangelo 2011 Gewürztraminer (Finger abv: 12.5% Price: $18 and spice notes accent aromas of preserved red fruits ty and big, brawny tannins, but should meld beautiful- 85 Lakes). A hint of smoke mingles amongst on this exuberantly foamy sparkler. It’s penetrating ly with 3–5 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —A.I. Bellangelo 2010 Merlot (Finger Lakes). This musky rose and lychee aromas on this deeply per- CHARDONNAY Hector Wine Company 2011 Pinot Blanc (Seneca on the palate with tart cranberry acidity, and finishes abv: 13.4% Price: $16 88 Merlot is concentrated with tart, crisp black- fumed Gewürztraminer. It’s quite lusciously fruity on 82 Lake). Pleasant apple, pear and white-flower with a lingering hint of dried leaves. —A.I. berry and cherry flavor, with a wisp of brambly stems the palate, with delicate acidity and a hint of dried Heron Hill 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay (Finger aromas are accompanied by a slightly earthy, mush- abv: 12% Price: $30 Lamoreaux Landing 2010 Estate Bottled T23 on the nose and palate. It’s bright with acidity and big, reeds on the finish. —A.I. 87 Lakes). Smoke aromas blow off with aeration room-like note on this dry Pinot Blanc. It’s stark and 89 Unoaked Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). With but velvety tannins that should allow the wine to ma- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 to reveal a wine that’s fresh and fragrant with apple lean with acidity, savory apple flavors and a brisk fin- Heart & Hands 2011 Brut Rosé Pinot Noir (Fin- no oak influence, this Cabernet Franc is chock full of ture well over 5–7 years. Cellar Selection. —A.I. blossom and pear notes. Dry and delicate in body, it’s ish. —A.I. 85 ger Lakes). Yeasty bread notes mingle with pristine raspberry and cherry notes. It’s quite concen- abv: 13.6% Price: $17 Stony Lonesome 2011 Estate Reserve Gewürz- full of zippy lemon-lime acidity and concentrated ap- abv: NA Price: $20 preserved cherry and raspberry tones on this dry, but trated on the palate with deep, ripe red-fruit flavor, 84 traminer (Finger Lakes). Floral potpourri, ple flavor accented by a hint of bergamot. —A.I. fruity, Pinot Noir sparkling. It’s quite bold on the pal- but marked by tart cranberry acidity and a long, lin- Damiani 2010 Reserve Merlot (Finger Lakes). A mango and apple aromas are inviting on this slight- abv: 12% Price: $14 ate with big, mouthfilling foam, and finishes with a gering finish and just a hint of leafy green notes. —A.I. 88 whiff of roasted nuts adds a rustic character ly off-dry Gewürztraminer. The palate is subtle with SPARKLING WINES touch of mushroom. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $20 to ripe black fruit on this Merlot. It’s big and bold on apple and pear flavor, and finishes slightly tart. —A.I. Lamoreaux Landing 2011 Estate Bottled abv: 12.5% Price: $26 the palate with concentrated fruit framed rigidly with abv: 12% Price: $14 85 Unoaked Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Fragrant Ravines 2006 Brut Sparkling Wine (Finger Damiani 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). tannins and acidity, but a hint of leafy, herbaceous with notes of grapefruit, apple and lemon, this dry, 89 Lakes). Notes of hazelnut and freshly baked Hosmer Winery NV Brut Rosé Pinot Noir (Finger 88 This brisk, refreshing Cabernet Franc is fra- notes adds elegance. —A.I. Treleaven 2011 Gewurztraminer (Cayuga Lake). delicately-framed Chardonnay is crisp with lemony brioche add depth and a sense of maturity to fresher 85 Lakes). Raspberry and pastry notes are invit- grant with notes of morello cherries and just a hint of abv: 13.9% Price: $41 84 Aromatic notes of lychee and rose are accent- acidity and an elegant citrus-rind flavor. It’s refreshing aromas of apple and pear on this sparkling wine. Made ing on this voluptuously foamy, yet bright and fruity tomato leaf. It’s bright, crisp and fruity on the palate ed with a foresty note of pine needles on this curious and easy drinking, but could use a boost of intensity in from equal proportions Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sparkling. Primary red-fruit flavors dominate, but it’s with loads of cranberry and raspberry flavor, accented Damiani 2010 Sunrise Hill Vineyards Merlot Gewürztraminer. It’s dry and lean on the palate, with a the mid palate. —A.I. it’s bright and brisk with acidity and penetrating fla- a brisk wine, with penetrating acidity and a clean, re- by mint and menthol. Finishes moderately long with 88 (Finger Lakes). Hints of vanilla and spice add bitter palate that overwhelms otherwise pleasant flo- abv: 12% Price: $25 vors of apple and lime. Finishes with a lingering hint freshing finish. —A.I. soft tannins. —A.I. warmth to pristine blackberry and plum flavors in this ral and fruit tones. —A.I. of cookie crumbs. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $22 brisk, medium-bodied Merlot. It’s tart with cranberry abv: 12% Price: $22 Standing Stone 2011 Chardonnay (Finger abv: 12.5% Price: $40 acidity and finishes with a lingering granite minerality. 85 Lakes). Hints of nuts add a savory tone to sub- Hosmer Winery 2009 Brut Rosé Pinot Noir (Ca- Damiani 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger —A.I. tle apple flavors on this dry Chardonnay. Tart, crisp Château Frank 2007 Blanc de Blancs (Finger 85 yuga Lake). Aromatic with notes of raspberry, 88 Lakes). Crisp, tart blackberry and cassis notes abv: 12.5% Price: $23 lemon and lime acidity on the midpalate makes it ef- 87 Lakes). Floral and fresh from notes of crisp cherry and sugar cookie, this is robust on the palate have a green, herbaceous flair throughout this vibrant,

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 79

BUYINGGUIDE

Lamoreaux Landing 2010 Estate Bottled Mer- elegant and subtle, while fruity, pick. Fine, soft tan- Stony Lonesome 2010 Estate Reserve Barbera Tullamore D.E.W. Phoenix (Ireland; William 88 lot (Finger Lakes). Hints of blue flowers and nins and a granite tone linger on the finish. —A.I. 85 (Finger Lakes). Spicy and fruity on the nose, 94 Grant & Sons, New York, NY). Teasingly sweet granite, spicy chocolate and vanilla notes add com- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 with scents of black cherry pie, this Finger Lakes Bar- on the palate, this easy-drinking blend has a dark gold plexity to this Merlot. It’s crisp and tart on the palate, bera balances lush cassis and vanilla flavors, with a cast and notes of honey, rich vanilla, fruit and spice. but balanced, with penetrating flavors of blackberry Knapp 2010 Lemberger (Cayuga Lake). Pretty shock of lemony acidity. There’s a faint note of tomato The finish is long and warming—note the high proof. and bramble bush. Finishes briskly with a leafy, her- 85 rose petal and black cherry aromas are tinged leaf throughout, but it finishes moderately long, with SPIRITS It’s delicious but not too precious to mix into cock- baceous flair. —A.I. with dark, earthy notes of soil and beets in this rustic a flurry of soft tannins. —A.I. Sláinte! Here’s to spring’s perfect spirit: Irish whiskey tails. abv: 13.1% Price: $17 Lemberger. The palate is juicy and bright, with cran- abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 55% Price: $55 berry flavor, yet still a bit savory in style. —A.I. e know that St. Patrick’s Day is growing “Many serious cocktail bars don’t have even Fox Run 2010 Merlot (Finger Lakes). Warm abv: 12% Price: $19 Three Brothers 2010 Estate Bourbon Cask Aged Bushmills 21 Year Old Single Malt (Ireland; Dia- 87 toast, vanilla and spice notes are inviting on 84 72 Days Barbera (Finger Lakes). This unusu- near when buzz about Irish whiskey starts one single bottle of Irish whiskey,” laments Sean 93 geo, Norwalk, CT). This aged spirit shows Irish this deeply penetrating Merlot. Despite its rich black- al Barbera is aged 72 days in Bourbon casks, lending Wto build, but this spirit deserves year- Muldoon, general manager at New York’s Dead whiskey’s dark side. It retains the enticing fresh-fruit fruit profile, the palate is surprisingly delicate dis- PINOT NOIR intense notes of vanilla, graham cracker and spice to round attention. Rabbit Grocery & Grog, noted for its outstanding aroma of younger bottlings, plus a luscious layer of playing tart cranberry notes that linger long and lean. more delicate flavors of blackberry and cherry. It’s Gentle, drinkable Irish whiskey has been collection of Irish whiskeys. “Even ‘Irish’ coffees butterscotch. On the palate, it’s oaky and drying, with —A.I. Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger quite puckery with acidity and softly tannic on the complex notes of toffee, dark chocolate, toasted nuts, building a fan base on American often are made with Bourbon.” abv: 12% Price: $20 87 Lakes). There’s a delicate cherry blossom per- finish. —A.I. caramel and a spicy finish. The whiskey is aged for fume that carries throughout this Pinot Noir, mingling abv: 12% Price: $46 shores. What’s the appeal? Sheer But there’s good news. Young- a minimum of 19 years in former oloroso and with hints of smoke and a palate that’s crisp and bright approachability, experts say. Gold- Irish whiskies are er drinkers are warming to Irish Bourbon barrels, then transferred to Madeira casks for LEMBERGER displaying red plum and sour cherry flavors. Medium en Irish whiskeys are light and light and fresh, whiskey, driven in part by Jame­ the final two years of maturation. Treat it like Scotch: bodied in style, it’s accented with delicate vanilla and OTHER RED WINES fresh, often fruity and grassy, with often fruity and son’s steady marketing push. add just a splash of water to open up the flavors. Hosmer Winery 2010 Lemberger (Cayuga spice notes, and soft tannins amongst a moderately abv: 40% Price: $125 little peat influence, if it’s even grassy, with little Bartenders, too, are embrac- 88 Lake). Aromas of smoke, char and spice entice long, dusty finish. —A.I. Atwater 2010 Moffett Block Blaufränkisch the nose of this zippy, medium-bodied Lemberger. The abv: 14% Price: $24 89 (Finger Lakes). This exceptionally pretty used at all. Yet they’re still com- peat influence, if ing the spirit for its mixability. A Bushmills 10 Year Old Single Malt (Ireland; Di- palate is crisp, offering tart black cherry and black- Blaufränkisch is sultry on the nose, offering notes of plex enough to hold a drinker’s it’s even used at number of classic cocktails made 92 ageo, Norwalk, CT). Though it’s a workhorse berry flavors fringed delicately with tannins. Finishes Lakewood 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Aro- preserved blackberry and blueberry. The palate is rich ­interest. And they’re often reason- using Irish whiskey have resur- whiskey, it’s still full of surprises. The sweet, bright long, with a delicate floral note. —A.I. 87 matic, with notes of red cherry preserves, this and ripe, with crème de cassis flavor, brightened by ably priced. all. Yet they’re still faced recently, such as the Tip- aromas of honey, vanilla and pear and the velvety feel abv: 12.5% Price: $18 is a fresh, fruity Pinot Noir filled with bright cherry tart acidity and a flourish of violet on the finish. —A.I. belie the rich, bold salted-butterscotch umami on the You’ll find blends and single complex enough perary (equal parts whiskey, dry and berry flavor, and a delicate violet flair. It’s medium abv: 13% Price: $38 palate. Lakewood 2010 Lemberger (Finger Lakes). A bodied in style, with zesty acidity and big, rigid tan- malts among the reviews below— to hold a drinker’s and Green Chartreuse) abv: 40% Price: $40 88 hint of dark earth adds dimension to bright nins on the finish. —A.I. Glenora 2011 Sangiovese (Finger Lakes). San- yeah, you read that right, single interest. and the blackthorn (a Manhat- sour-cherry and red-plum notes in this elegant Lem- abv: 13% Price: $16 87 giovese is unusual in the Finger Lakes, but malt isn’t only for Scotch. In fact, tan-esque mix of whiskey, ver- Kilbeggan (Ireland; Beam Inc., Deerfield, IL). berger. Brisk and balanced, the palate is marked by a this one is quite intense. Rich cassis and black cherry Bushmills, our Wine Star Spirit of mouth, Angostura bitters and a 92 Light and fresh, this golden beauty has a mild pleasant plum-skin tartness, alongside pretty floral Atwater 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). In- flavors are accented by a minerally wet-granite tone white-floral note in the aroma and a gentle softness on the Year for 2013, is near the top of this month’s splash of absinthe). At the same time, bartend- notes on the finish. —A.I. 86 tensely aromatic of ripe black cherries and and brisk cranberry acidity. It’s deeply concentrated the palate. Honey, vanilla and almond wash over the abv: 13.3% Price: $16 berries, this is a surprisingly bold, big Pinot Noir. on the nose and palate, with soft, fine tannins on the reviews with several of its single-malt bottlings, ers are creating new libations that showcase Irish palate, with a moderately spicy finish. The palate is lush of blackberry preserves and coarse, finish. —A.I. as well as its blended Black Bush. whiskey’s light, appealing character. abv: 40% Price: $24 Seneca Shore NV Amulet DeMarco Vineyards chunky tannins that dominate the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22 Although the spirit has enjoyed enviable There’s never been a better time to have a 88 Lemberger (Seneca Lake). Luscious black abv: 13% Price: $18 growth over the past couple of years, there’s still drop of Irish in your glass. Malloye Whiskey (Ireland; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, cherry and raspberry flavors distinguish this fruity, Heron Hill 2010 Reserve Blaufränkisch (Finger White Plains, NY). This light gold whiskey has room to grow. Cheers! —Kara Newman 92 surprisingly forward Lemberger. Layers of concentrat- Heron Hill 2010 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Fra- 87 Lakes). Cassis and bramble-bush notes are fresh scents of apple and pear, followed by a light ed fruit and soft, lush tannins get a hit of mouthwa- 86 grant, with notes of ripe cherry and strawber- aromatic on this vivacious Blaufränkisch. It’s load- smokiness on the palate. Smoke accelerates into the tering acidity on the midpalate. A wine to be enjoyed ry, this brisk, bright Pinot Noir is delicately framed, ed with blackberry flavor and subtle hints of vanilla, finish in a pleasing way, with a prickle of ginger. now. —A.I. but juicy with nervy sour-cherry and cranberry fla- spice and Bourbon that linger on the finish. Medium abv: 40% Price: $21 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 vors. Drying tannins make this an elegant food wine bodied, with fine-grained, moderate tannins. —A.I. Bushmills Black Bush (Ireland; Diageo, Nor- fresh-apple scent. On the palate, apple and ripe pear to pair with even robust poultry or pork dishes. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $40 96 walk, CT). This elegant, super-soft sipper is meld with butterscotch and a touch of banana on the Bushmills Irish Honey (Ireland; Diageo, Norwalk, Damiani 2010 Sunrise Hill Vineyard Lemberger abv: 12.5% Price: $15 a blend of grain whiskey and malt whiskey that was long finish. Meant for savoring straight up. 91 CT). More of a honey-spiked whiskey rather 87 (Finger Lakes). While the nose of this Lem- finished in oloroso Sherry casks—the emphasis on the abv: 46% Price: $249 than a liqueur, this is ideal for mixing or introducing berger is quite voluptuous, with aromas of ripe black Belhurst 2010 Pinot Noir (Seneca Lake). In- latter. The Sherry influence shows in the baked apple beginners to the pleasures of Irish whiskey. Authentic cherries and plum, the palate highlights crisp, slight- 84 tense blueberry and blackberry notes pene- and dried apricot flavors that round into caramel and 2 Gingers Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Beam Inc., honey richness comes through on the palate, but it’s ly tart blackberry flavor. It’s full bodied in style, yet trate through this fruity, forward Pinot Noir. Hints of butterscotch tones on the finish. 94 Deerfield, IL). A newcomer to the marketplace, subtle and not overly sweet, and doesn’t lose the plea- refreshing with acidity and finishes quite brisk. —A.I. savory herbs add elegance to an otherwise one-dimen- abv: 40% Price: $29 thi s velvety blended Irish whiskey offers sweet, malty sures of the fresh, lightly fruity base spirit. abv: 13% Price: $20 sional palate that finishes with big, coarse tannins. flavors that incorporate baked apple, honey and warm abv: 40% Price: $24 —A.I. Bushmills 16 Year Old Single Malt (Ireland; Di- butterscotch. Best Buy. Fox Run 2010 Lemberger (Finger Lakes). Light abv: 12% Price: $22 95 ageo, Norwalk, CT). This robust single-malt abv: 40% Price: $20 Concannon Irish Whiskey (Ireland; The Wine 87 on its feet and effortlessly quaffable, this Lem- whiskey is matured in Sherry and Bourbon casks be- 91 Group, San Francisco, CA). This venture from berger balances deep, dense blackberry and cherry fla- fore finishing for several months in Port barrels. Look Jameson Select Reserve Black Barrel (Ireland; Cooley Distillery and Concannon Vineyard brings a vors, with a refreshing granite edge. Crisp in profile, it BARBERA for a balanced mix of creamy caramel, maple, dried 94 Pernod Ricard, New York, NY). Like a liquid (if whiskey aged in ex-Bourbon casks for at least four finishes in a murmur of soft tannins. —A.I. apricots, a subtle raspberry jam note and a rounded, boozy) apple pie, this blended whiskey offers bold, years, then rested for at least four months in barrels abv: 12% Price: $18 Stony Lonesome 2011 Estate Reserve Barbera spicy finish. rich aromatics, with lots of dried and stewed fruit fla- that previously held Concannon Petite Sirah. The end 85 (Finger Lakes). Preserved black cherry and abv: 40% Price: $75 vors and butterscotch. The drawn-out finish incorpo- result is light-bodied and silky, with smoky flavor and Keuka Spring 2010 Lemberger (Finger Lakes). berry notes seem lush and ripe on the nose, but are rates touches of cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and even touches of vanilla and lemon zest on the finish. Some 87 Fresh and tart, with refreshing notes of herb surprisingly tart on the palate. The palate is full bod- Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy (Ireland; Per- a mouthwatering sprinkle of salt. might hope for a more wine-like profile, but it’s pleas- and cranberry, this medium-bodied Lemberger is an ied, with concentrated black fruit flavor and soft, dry- 95 nod Ricard, Purchase, NY). Intended as a trib- abv: 40% Price: $35 ing nevertheless. ing tannins on the finish. —A.I. ute to Midleton Master Distiller Barry Crockett, this abv: 40% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $15 delicate, silky whiskey has a golden hue and a lovely

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 81

BUYINGGUIDE

Tullamore Dew 12 Year Old Special Reserve (Ire- lush mouthfeel, creamy texture and moderate alcohol. 91 land; William Grant & Sons, New York, NY). With The addition of Sitka spruce tips, as well as Pacific its mild aromatics and flavor, this light-gold blended Northwest and European hops, add interesting layers whiskey is suitable for sipping or mixing. Look for va- of aroma and flavor; they lift the sweet-malt scents on nilla, caramel, touches of nuts, orange peel and gentle the nose and weight of the palate, with tones of pine spice notes on the finish. BEER resin, citrus oil and, of course, spruce. As we say good- abv: 40% Price: $40 Brown is the new black bye to winter, it’s a sweet companion for the remain- ing chilly nights. Bushmills Original (Ireland; Diageo, Norwalk, abv: 6.4% Price: $8/22 oz rown ales are nothing new to the beer imperial-­style selections. 90 CT). Light and easy-sipping, this light-gold whiskey has a grassy, slightly vegetal aroma, with a world. Traditionally an English style, These hop additions can result in some Hangar 24 Craft Brewery Hullabaloo Winter hint of Granny Smith apple. Look for vanilla and hon- brown ales were spawned from mild ales blurred lines when it comes to knowing what 88 Beer (Scottish Ale; Hangar 24 Craft Brewery, ey flavors, with a bit of cinnamon sizzle on the finish. as sweet, malty selections of full body and to expect from any given American brown ale. CA). This is a friendly, warm and round winter beer, abv: 40% Price: $24 Bmedium alcohol. The hop profile of these selec- Some may be brewed in a more traditional perfect for those looking for a bit more weight and a little less spice to their seasonal selections. Rich notes tions is typically low—light on aroma, flavor style, while others might be more of a hybrid of Kavanagh Irish Whiskey (Ireland; W.J. Deutsch of caramel, roasted malt, toasted hazelnut and a touch 90 & Sons, White Plains, NY). Look for aromas of and overall bitterness—allowing the malt char the brown ale and IPA styles, even though offi- of boozy warmth fill the nose and mouth, with a sub- fresh-cut grass, pears and vanilla. At first sip, baked- acteristics to take center stage cial style guidelines for Ameri- tle, citrusy hop kick thanks to the addition of Ameri- pear flavor bursts on the palate, followed by a long, and truly shine. Some produc- can-style brown ales list low to can and English hops. The mouthfeel is light, with fine mouthwatering vanilla finish and a bit of alcohol heat. ers prefer a leaner profile, with Traditionally an moderate hop characteristics. carbonation but a clean, lightly bitter finish. Best Buy. abv: 6.5% Price: $9/12 oz 4 pack cleansing carbonation to lift the Although sometimes labeled abv: 40% Price: $19 English style, brown roasty characteristics, while ales were spawned as Brown IPA, your best bet for Samuel Adams Cold Snap (Witbier; The Boston Redbreast 12 Cask Strength (Ireland; Pernod others might drill down into the from mild ales as knowing what to expect is to 87 Beer Company, MA). Sam Adams is definitely 90 Ricard, Purchase, NY). Straight up, this cask- rich, malty, nutty goodness that read the beer’s label for indica- thinking outside the box with this one, as it’s not real- strength whiskey is crazy hot, almost too hot to drink. some people can’t get enough of. sweet, malty tions of style or IBUs, or check ly your typical spring beer, but more a classically sum- But it shines as a base for mixed drinks, as its honeyed mer style. A white ale brewed with a blend of 10 fruits, American versions are often out the producer’s Web site for Sherry scent and mix of malty apple and faintly smoky selections of full flowers and spices, this boasts a light and friendly flavors stand up to significant dilution. For straight-up quite similar to their European body and medium more recipe specifics. profile, with a core of clean wheat and citrus notes sipping, seek out the excellent—and 80 proof—Red- counterparts, although they of- alcohol. In addition to these brown that are accented by hints of coriander, white pepper, breast 12 year old. ten use American ingredients, beauties, we also review a orange peel and allspice. Despite the herbal and spice abv: 57.7% Price: $65 including hops. Like most Amer- handful of seasonal selections. complexities, it remains harmonious and balanced on the palate, ending clean and fresh. ican beer styles, the hop profile Some are winter releases while Tullamore Dew 10 Year Old Single Malt (Ireland; abv: 5.3% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack 90 William Grant & Sons, New York, NY). Light is often amped up a degree or two (or even three others are scheduled for spring, but either way, and downright juicy, this pale-gold whiskey actually or four) from traditionally styled examples, and they’ll get you through the change of season Shiner Holiday Cheer (Dunkelweizen; Spoetzl smells like apple juice spiked with a hint of booze. It’s with that might also come an increase in alco- with ease and good taste. 85 Brewery, TX). This holiday beer, brewed with more complex on the palate, mixing fruit and vanilla hol, especially for producers looking to make Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo peaches and pecans, sounds like it’s going to be a flavors with ginger and cinnamon on the finish. mouthful, but in reality, it’s quite light and easygoing. abv: 40% Price: $35 Upfront aromas of juicy peach, roasted nuts, caramel and molasses abound on the nose, while the aromas Knappogue Cask 14 year old Single Malt Irish are more subdued and focused, with toasted malt, 89 Whiskey (Ireland; Castle Brands, NY, NY). The Smuttynose Durty Mud Season Hoppy Brown aromas and flavors, it’s well balanced, clean and easy wheat and yeasty spice tones. High carbonation keeps aroma of this light-gold whiskey mixes notes of faint 92 Ale (American Brown Ale; Smuttynose Brewing to drink. the palate bright, ending quick and clean. smoke and fresh apple. On the palate, vanilla, citrus Company, NH). This new brew originally comes from abv: 6.3% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack abv: 5.4% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack and dried fruit mingle with an oaky astringency and one of Smutty’s Short Batch releases, but makes its strong alcohol heat. Aged for 14 years in oloroso Sherry seasonal debut this spring. It’s a wonderful balance of Uinta Bristlecone Brown Ale (English Brown casks and Bourbon barrels. rich, toasty brown-ale characteristics and bright, cit- 90 Ale; Uinta Brewing, UT). A refreshing and abv: 46% Price: $60 rusy hop notes. The hop profile leads on the nose, with well-balanced selection, this is a smooth and clean forward scents of grapefruit peel and pine resin, while brown ale that also happens to be quite sessionable Jameson Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Pernod Ricard, the malty core of caramel, toffee and brown-bread fla- thanks to its easygoing profile and low alcohol. Flirty 88 New York, NY). A favorite for shots at bars vors flesh out the creamy palate. The finish is dry and scents of caramel malt, peanut shells, weak coffee across the nation, Jameson has a bright, juicy aroma astringent, with good length and a kiss of bittersweet and brown bread dance in the bouquet and continue and a drying feel. Look for baking spices, red apple, cocoa flavor. through to the light-bodied palate. Brisk carbonation a fleeting resin note and rounded vanilla tones. It’s a abv: 8.4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack keeps the mouthfeel bright and lively, with just a no- versatile addition to cocktails or simply mixed with tion of bitter, earthy hop that unfolds on the finish. ginger ale. Karl Strauss Fullsuit Belgian-style Brown Ale abv: 4.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack abv: 40% Price: $25 90 (Belgian-style Brown Ale; Karl Strauss Brewing Company, CA). Aged on French oak chips, this leads with toasty aromas of roasted nuts, charred wood SEASONAL BEERS and vanilla-caramel sauce, with supporting notes of brown-bread dough, toasted malt, toffee and dried Alaskan Winter Ale Brewed with Spruce Tips hops. The spicy yeast notes of clove and pepper, as 88 (Old Ale; Alaskan Brewing Company, AK). Tra- well as a touch of banana, unfold on the creamy mouth ditional English old ales are quite full and malty, and and linger through the close. Despite the rich, sweet this adheres closely to that style thanks to a round,

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2014 WINEMAG.COM | 83